Clapboard wall decoration in the house. The subtleties of wall decoration clapboard. Features of finishing work using lining

Building from wood, probably, will always be. There is a very good atmosphere in such buildings, and the appearance of a well-cut house, according to the most modest estimates, is attractive. Finishing wooden house inside is a separate issue with many nuances: wood is a special material, the characteristics and properties of which should be taken into account. About technical and technological features finishing works in a wooden house and we'll talk.

When to start

On a “fresh” log house, finishing work can begin no earlier than the main shrinkage has passed. If the log house is made of glued beams, 3-4 weeks should pass. For all other types of wooden houses, the period is calculated in months, and sometimes years. Exact time shrinkage depends on the initial moisture content of the raw material, the climatic zone and the time of construction. This is how difficult it is. In any case, earlier than in a year, in extreme cases, after 10 months, you should not start finishing. During this period of time, there is an active shrinkage of wood, logs and timber are reduced in size, the insulation laid between the crowns is crushed. If you attach the trim before the main processes have passed, it will fall off or skew it. Everything will have to be removed and redone. So there is no need to rush. Moreover, there will be enough work: you need to achieve tightness of the joints, and this is not easy. You need a careful competent caulking.

Usually the main caulking of a log house takes place in two stages. Primary - a few weeks after the installation of the log house, and secondary - about six months - eight months. Each time the cracks are clogged with insulation - jute, tow, sometimes moss. Immediately it is done both outside and inside, otherwise the house will warp. Therefore, the building is bypassed around the perimeter, caulking alternately, each crown, either from the outside or from the inside. Work begins from below, from the lowest row of logs or timber.

With each caulk, the log house rises by 5-7 cm. Then, under the force of gravity, it gradually settles. Compacted interventional insulation reliably covers the gaps. The quality of this work is very important: it not least depends on how warm it will be in the house.

Finishing work begins inside the wooden house after the log house sits down after the second caulk. To determine whether the process is complete or not, the height of the walls is periodically measured. If there are no significant changes within two to three months, we can assume that the main processes have passed. It's time to start decorating the inside and outside of the house.

Types of wall decoration of a wooden house

If the log house itself has an attractive appearance, it is rarely sheathed. In this case, it makes sense to reduce the cost of interior decoration: sand the log or beam and tint it. Only floors should be varnished: the varnish will prevent abrasion of the wood. And the walls and ceiling are best covered with tinting antiseptics or water-based paints. They do not paint over the texture of the wood, but only give it a shade, showing the pattern better. You still have to use antiseptics - to preserve the attractive appearance of the wood.

If the log or beam is normal, the caulk seam looks bad, it is sealed with a twisted cord, and the walls are finished in the same way - they are sanded and tinted. Everything looks good too, and the cord in the groove serves as an additional guarantee against drafts.

Ugly seams from caulking can be sealed with a cord - it looks attractive, and even from drafts

How to sheathe the walls in a wooden house inside

If the log house is so crooked or old that grinding will not help, you will have to make the interior decoration of a wooden house from clapboard, wall panels, drywall or other material.

For any of these materials, it is better to make a crate: this way you can level the surface of the walls. In addition, there is room behind the crate for free air circulation. In a wooden house, this is important, since only dry wood does not rot and blacken. Free air circulation between the finishing material and the wall will maintain their normal condition.

The crate in a house made of timber or logs is done in the same way: you need to remember that it must “float” so that the finish does not fly off

The distance behind the crate is also used; it must be made in non-combustible pipes, so you need a decent amount of space for it. There, if necessary, you can lay a heater - this is if your house turned out to be cold. If you spend a little on heating and the house is warm, it is better not to use any additional materials: neither insulation nor vapor barrier. Wood itself does an excellent job of maintaining a stable humidity in the house, and the extra layers only upset the balance.

Not everyone likes fastening the finish to the crate: if an animal or insects settles behind the sheathing, it is difficult to get rid of them. In this case, you can level the surface of the logs by removing the protruding parts and nail the finish to such a surface. A perfectly flat surface is difficult to achieve, but possible. The gaps between the finishing material and the wall, which in this case still exist, were once covered with clay. It will be thermal insulation and protect against drafts. Technologically, this is incorrect, but they do it too.

Whatever materials are used for cladding the walls of a wooden house inside, there should be a gap of at least 2-4 cm to the ceiling. For a “young” log house, this is insurance in case of shrinkage. For the old - a gap to compensate for changes in the geometry of the wood. She breathes all her life: it picks up moisture and swells, then it dries out. The gap under the ceiling will allow the tree to expand or shrink quietly, without consequences for the finish. If it is not done, then either cracks will appear, or the finish will bend / tear out. So that the gap does not “cut the eye”, it is closed ceiling plinth. It is nailed only to the stream, it is only leaned against the wall. In this case, all movements will be invisible.

Clapboard decoration inside the house

Clapboard is the leader among finishing materials. It is used both inside and outside the house, only with different processing (impregnations and paints are taken for outdoor or internal works). She happens different types. It is not only about different breeds wood or different board widths. There are also different profiles: even, wavy, imitating a beam or a log house. There are several options in the photo below.

For finishing inside the house, the lining is taken not thick: 1.5-2 cm is enough. It costs less and does its job. Reiki can be positioned horizontally, vertically, at an angle. From the combinations of all these areas, you can get amazingly beautiful panels, but this is a laborious task.

When nailing the crate or planks, you need to remember about the shrinkage of the log house and the ability of the wood to swell and shrink. Near the floor and ceiling, do not nail the trim and the crate close, leave 2-4 cm each to compensate for these extensions.

Clapboard trim and walls and ceiling. And here and there it looks more than decent, but such a finish is relatively inexpensive. Cheaper (and easier to perform) just upholstered with plywood and stick wallpaper. By the way, this is a popular finish. country house inside the economy class. With a sufficient level of performance, this method can also be used to decorate premises not only in summer cottage. The only objection is the glue that is used in the manufacture of plywood. But if you take it as I emission class (allowed for use in children's institutions), then, probably, there will be nothing to worry about.

Mounting methods

Previously, they were not particularly worried and nailed the lining into the face (into the front surface) through and through. At best, they used nails without hats or finishing nails (they have very small hats). Sometimes the caps were covered with putty on wood and sanded, sometimes the holes from the screws were closed with pins. This is for the most fastidious and demanding quality finishes.

Today, even this method is considered not the most aesthetic: traces can still be seen. So that nothing can be seen, they use secret methods:

• nails or self-tapping screws are driven at an angle into a spike or groove;
• with the help of clamps (clamps).

Both of these methods require patience and accuracy: thin nails are used small size, they need to be nailed so as not to damage the front surface. To make it easier, you can beat not with nails, but with staples from a construction stapler. Staples are taken with a narrow back and long legs, made of stainless steel with sharpening. Although there are models of staplers that “shoot” nails with a very small head. For fastening the lining - that's it. They also use self-tapping screws. A comparison of the two methods is made in the video.

There is one nuance. If you bought a non-chamber drying lining (its moisture content is 7-8%), it will gradually dry out. Gaps will appear between the planks and you will either have to put up with them, or nail all the planks again. Sometimes two or three times. It's impossible to avoid it. You can only choose a profile in which the gaps will be invisible (profiles "Softline" and "Standard" in the figure in the previous section). In this regard, you need to think carefully about the better to fix the lining for the first time: it will have to be removed. Therefore, it is desirable to make it so that it is not difficult and that it does not collapse. Here everyone decides for himself: it is more convenient for someone to work with self-tapping screws, for someone with nails. Both methods are not ideal (it is difficult to pull out the nails, and you need to drill a hole under the head of the self-tapping screw), but both are acceptable.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to dock the lining with a wall of logs. The difficulty may arise due to the fact that the wall has a non-linear shape. You can outline it using a small piece of lining, to which a simple pencil is attached. Having set the bar and leading along the wall with a piece of lining with a pencil, they transfer the shape of the log to the bar. By carefully sawing along the intended line, you can achieve an almost perfect match.

Wall panels for interior decoration

Finishing a wooden house inside with wall panels gives a completely different stylistic result. This finishing material is made from different materials with different textures

• wood;
• bamboo;
• MDF (laminated and veneered);
• glass (smooth with photo printing, embossed, colored, transparent, matte);
• plastics and plastics;
• skin.

They are type-setting or shield. Type-setting - long thin elements connected to each other according to the tenon-groove principle. Clapboard is essentially wall panels too. It's just that it has long been used as an independent category of finishing materials. Shield wall panels differ in geometry - they have a comparable length and width.

Everything is usually assembled on a crate (like lining), the bars of which are stuffed taking into account the dimensions of the chosen finish. This material is loved by designers: materials, texture and color solutions allow you to implement a variety of ideas. Such interior decoration of a wooden house can be very expensive - leather - or cheap - MDF panels. But the appearance is quite decent.

If according to the technology wall panels should be laid on glue (gypsum, for example), then on the crate (you remember that in a wooden house it needs to be made floating), substrate plates are attached - plywood, GVL, etc. Plates are installed on this substrate with glue. An example is shown in the video.

How to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with drywall

The technology of working in a house made of wood or other material is no different: a frame is assembled, and drywall is attached to it. Only, as in the case of the crate for lining, you need to leave gaps near the floor and ceiling. The only condition: this type of interior decoration of a wooden house is possible only after complete shrinkage (at least several years must pass and the house must be heated). Gypsum is a brittle material and will simply tear if changed significantly. The only option that will allow them to be ignored to some extent is to make a floating frame, attaching the profiles to the walls not rigidly, but leaving freedom of movement. Then the log house will settle on its own, and the drywall will remain in place.

With what and how to make a floating crate for fixing hard finishing materials (drywall, bases for ceramic tiles etc.) see the video.

Another feature of finishing a wooden house with drywall: all joints, seams and corners must be glued with a polymer reinforcing mesh. It will prevent the formation of cracks in the most problem areas(or slow down their formation). If you need to clad a house from a bar inside with drywall, but you really don’t want to lose precious centimeters of area due to the installation of profiles, you can do it as in the next video. There are some good tips.

Features of the interior decoration of an old wooden house

If a house made of timber or logs has stood for several decades, first of all you need to assess the condition of the wood. To do this, remove the entire finish and “pick” all suspicious spots - darker or lighter in color, differing in structure or texture. You can do this with a screwdriver, a chisel, even a knife. If the wood is dense everywhere, there are no signs of destruction, everything is fine, you can start finishing. You may need to first impregnate walls and other structures with protective impregnation - to protect the wood for a few more decades. But not all owners of wooden houses agree to chemical treatment, so it's up to you.

In case the wood crumbles from your efforts, you need to consult a specialist. It is necessary to determine what caused the damage - insects, fungi or microorganisms - and what measures need to be taken. Then the damaged pieces or elements are changed, paying special attention to the treatment with antiseptics and protective impregnations adjacent zones.

After evaluating or "treating" the wood, you can begin to update the appearance. Finishing an old wooden house inside is no different from those described above. Is it just that shrinkage should not be taken into account: there are no significant advances. So from this side, everything is somewhat simpler.

To update the facade of the house, the option with lining it with clapboard will help. Such a coating will not only improve the aesthetic state of the building, but will also create an additional layer of sound and heat insulation.

Consider how to carry out this process on your own, namely, how to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside?

Types of lining

There are two options for lining: plastic and wood.

Wooden material is divided into two subtypes: standard and eurolining. They differ in the technical standards used in production. The eurolining has the increased quality as it is made according to higher standards. Their surface is perfectly smooth, the edges are clearly cut, the grooves are clearer and deeper.

Such an option for finishing the facade will help to quickly and inexpensively provide a high-quality and beautiful coating. And the tree will acquire additional protection after being treated with wax or other protective compounds. Such a coating can last for a long time, saving homeowners money and time on repair work or new cover.

The raw material for the formation of boards is coniferous wood - cedar, larch, spruce, pine; And hardwoods- linden, aspen. The choice of the required sample will depend on many factors. Some are moisture resistant, others are healing properties etc.

Positive features of the coating

The lining made of plastic has a number of advantages:

• Has a long service life, does not rot;
• Does not require specific care;
• Resistant to high humidity and other environmental influences.

The positive qualities of lining made of wood:

• Aesthetics of the material;
• Soundproof characteristics;
• Low thermal conductivity.

Sequence of work

Since it is possible to sheathe a house with lining from the outside in different ways, but it is always important to complete the preparatory procedures.

It includes:

• Installation of a vapor barrier layer;
• Creating a frame;
• Laying a layer of thermal insulation;
• Fixing the waterproofing layer;
• Installation of the second frame;
• External finishing works.

Vapor barrier system - installation rules

To create a vapor barrier layer, choose the following options:

• Polyethylene film;
• aluminum foil;
• Ruberoid.

The purpose of this layer is the ventilation of the surface of the walls of the structure. To fix it, wooden slats 2.5 cm wide are used with a distance between them of about 1 m. Vapor barrier material is nailed to them. Then holes with a diameter of 2 cm are made on it to ventilate the surface.

Frame installation. The next step is to build the frame. For this, boards about 5 cm thick and 10 cm wide are used. They are attached to the wall vertically with their side. The distance between the elements should be slightly less than the thickness of the selected insulation.

Thermal insulation and its placement

Wool slabs must be staggered so that the joints of the bottom row are covered with the top layer.

Additional fasteners for thermal insulation do not need to be carried out - it independently rests on the frame.

Waterproofing attachment. The formation of a waterproofing layer requires compliance with some nuances. So to create the desired effect, the waterproofing film must be placed with the rough side up.

This material allows you to stop the passage of liquid, but passes steam evaporation. The film is fixed with staples on the frame. To ensure the reliability of the insulation, the joints must be overlapped up to 10 cm, then glued with adhesive tape.

Installation of the second frame

The next step is the installation of the second frame. To do this, slats 3 cm * 0.5 mm are nailed to the first wooden frame.

The formation of the second frame is necessary for additional ventilation of the coating and removal of water condensate on the insulating film.

At the bottom of the structure it is better to place metal mesh, for protection against penetration of insects and rodents.

External finishing of the facade with clapboard

The final stage of work on finishing the facade will be the creation of a finishing layer of clapboard coating. To facilitate the installation process, it is better to measure the boards in advance and cut them to the required dimensions. The sheathing process is carried out from the bottom up.

The launch pad will be slotted up and spiked down. Then it is checked with a level. If it is located correctly, then it is fixed with nails or special clips. If the bar is located incorrectly, then its position is corrected, and then fixed.

Next, install the next bar in the groove to the previous board. For a better connection, they hit the place of attachment with a wooden hammer (mallet). This will allow the spike of the upper bar to fit more tightly into the groove of the lower one. Then the bar is fixed, and then, following this sequence, all subsequent coating elements are installed.

After the installation is completed, additional fixing of the boards is carried out in the corners of the house. The fixation should be vertical, one of the boards should overlap the other. Therefore, the same principle is carried out by fixing the boards in the places of openings of doors or windows.

Coating the wood with impregnation will protect it from the negative effects of the environment, while maintaining the natural color and texture of the wood.

Watch the video:

When painting, the following rules must be observed:

• The surface before painting is treated with a grinding machine;
• Before application oil paint, it is necessary to make a couple of layers of drying oil;
• After each layer of paint, you need to give them time to dry.

How to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside is up to you personally, but still there are some rules that you should definitely take into account when working with this material.

What is a lining? The answer is simple - environmentally friendly material for interior decoration. First of all, the issue of environmental friendliness concerns wooden lining. It has been used for such work for a long time, but even now it does not lose its relevance.

Types and characteristics

Lining for interior decoration of the house can be made not only from wood. What are the types? According to the base material is divided into:

• Wooden;
• Plastic (PVC panels);
• MDF panels.

Wooden lining is a time-tested option. It allows the room to breathe. To give the skin a special look, you can varnish or paint the surface.

Alternatively, you can still soak the wagon with oil. This type is further divided into classes depending on the characteristics and quality of performance. There are four such varieties:

1. EXTRA class. It is of the best quality. There will be nothing to complain about, since there are no chips, no cracks, or even knots. The price will also be relevant. This class is considered the most durable and durable.
2. Class A. Such boards will have knots, but there will be no visible defects in the form of chips, cracks and notches. The price is lower. The prevalence among the general public is greater.
3. Class B. There are visible defects that are attributed to a factory defect. Strong enough, can be used in finishing works. But it is better to use for finishing minor rooms, such as cottages or for finishing balconies.
4. Class C. Cheapest in price.

   Hence the low quality. Not so strong, not so beautiful! Used for lining sheds and utility rooms.

According to the difference in the appearance of the lining, there is also its own classification. The following can be distinguished:

• Standard wooden;
• Eurolining.

Standard has the same appearance for both wooden and plastic panels. Eurolining is considered better in terms of quality.

Finishing the house with clapboard outside: instructions from the master

In appearance, it, in turn, is divided into categories: “standard”, “softline”, “landhau”, “block house”, “American”.

The "block house" has been especially popular lately. Finishing the house with clapboard inside this type resembles a rounded beam. This gives a special native flavor.

In the image, inside the house - the panels have a wood texture.

Plastic panels more suitable for ceiling cladding than walls.

They are very fragile, any awkward movement can cause a crack to appear on the surface.

The main advantage is immunity to high humidity.

Another thing to note is the ease of maintenance of this material. It does not need any drying or impregnation. To clean the surface, it is enough to walk with soapy water. The main thing is not to use abrasive products.

MDF panels outwardly similar to a tree. They are able to imitate any surface. This option is easy to install. Manufacturers offer a wide range of varieties and colors. This material is afraid of moisture. It cannot be used for upholstery indoors with high humidity.

Can be used for both walls and ceilings. It is possible to combine with other materials. The result of such work is very worthy!

brief technology

Board assembly is very easy. Even an inexperienced person can manipulate this material.

The important point is preparatory work. They include cleaning the surface from dirt and dust.

If the level of the walls is very different, you can slightly level the surface.

The next step is the installation of the crate. For this, both a wooden beam and metallic profile. With the help of the crate, you can trim the small slopes of the wall. Lining will also help hide an unsightly appearance.

Clapboard decoration inside the house implies the presence of an assistant. You can't do it alone. Attaches with clamps. With each other, it is fixed by being placed in a groove.

Before installing the frame, decide on the direction. The design of the crate depends on this.

Video - interior upholstery of the house (inside with insulation):

Frame installation

Traditionally, a horizontal arrangement is used, so the frame is fixed vertically.

In order for the frame and subsequent sheathing to be even, it is necessary to mark the surface. You need to place the parts strictly according to the level.

We install the first rails in opposite corners.

They will set the "general mood", treat their installation especially carefully. Between them you need to stretch the fishing line. This is usually done in several levels.

Standard frame ribs are located at the level of the chest, belt and wheel. The distance between the frame parts is on average 50 cm. You can do a little less for rigidity. But this distance will be ideal if, in addition to finishing, you also want to fix the insulation in the frame cells.

If you are making a crate from wooden beam, it is necessary to treat it with an anti-rotting compound. Therefore, a frame made of metal profiles is increasingly being used.

Do-it-yourself installation

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to dry the lining. This will take several weeks. But then you will not worry that the material will deform.

If drying did not take place inside the room where the finishing work will take place, the material needs a day to adapt to external conditions. After these recommendations are fulfilled, you can proceed directly to the cladding.

The lining canvas has a spike on one side and a groove on the other. The latter during installation should be located at the bottom. This is necessary so that the accumulated moisture does not enter the structure.

Interior decoration clapboard houses can be carried out both from the ceiling and from the floor. However, the first option is preferred. Although the pruning can later be hidden with a plinth.

The slats can be fixed in a hidden way with the help of a clamp, or directly, by nailing to the slats of the crate. The first option is more aesthetic.

Mounting elements close to each other is not required. You need to leave a small gap. If the length of the rail for the entire wall is not enough, you can make a butt structure. Manufacturers offer special strips that are used at the junction.

Video - interior upholstery of a country house:

Lacquering or painting

To give the interior decoration a finished look, it is necessary to cover the lining with varnish or paint. What is the difference between these procedures? What lineup should you go for?

Several components are taken as the basis of varnishes. They depend on the appearance and application. Lucky are:

• Acrylic;
• polyurethane;
• Alkyd;
• Acrylic-polyurethane;
• Water based.

Video - wood painting:

Acrylic lacquer dries quickly. It is suitable for both indoor and outdoor work. The varnish is not afraid of moisture and high temperatures. There are many colors and shades on sale. Such a surface will be easy to wash from accumulating dust and dirt.

Polyurethane varnish – universal option. It will prevent yellowing of the wood. On sale, you can choose both a translucent shade and saturated. It depends on the preferences of the buyer. When choosing a light shade, do not forget to choose the appropriate tone of the primer.

Alkyd varnishes dry for a very long time. To speed up the process, you can use a special solution, just designed for this purpose.

Another disadvantage is an unpleasant pungent odor. It is very difficult to get it out of the room.

The advantage is that after coating it forms a protective film against moisture.

Water based varnish considered an environmentally friendly product. It is odorless and dries quickly. It contains no chemical solvents. On sale there are compounds that repel water and dirt.

The price of such a varnish is higher, but in terms of properties it is much safer and more functional than other categories. The surface covered with such a composition is very easy to clean.

Alternatively, you can soak in oils. They will give the surface a pleasant shade. What to choose - it's up to you!

Cost of work

Finishing the clapboard inside the house is a simple matter. It does not require special skills and years of study. You can perform this procedure yourself.

But if, due to some circumstances or other reasons, you cannot do this work yourself, you can hire a team of professionals.

The average prices for cladding a room inside are 350 rubles per sq.m. This primarily depends on the complexity of the work, volumes and premises. Rough finishing of utility rooms will be cheaper.

But for the work on finishing on an uneven surface you will have to give everything! The average price for the material itself is from 8 to 12 thousand rubles per cubic meter. m.

Don't skimp on the material. Do not take on a job if you are not sure of a positive result. Don't neglect simple rules and advice. And then you will succeed!

How to sheathe a wooden house with clapboard outside? Technology, material, tool and cost

If the house is built of boards or wooden beams, it is best to sheathe it on the outside with clapboard. It comes in only two types:

1. plastic
2. and, of course, wood.

In this case, we are talking about the wooden sheathing of the house.

Advantages of lining a wooden house with clapboard

The advantages of such an external finish are:

• its aesthetic appearance
• the convenience of the work carried out,
• the relative cheapness of the material,
• strength,
• durability,
• damage resistance,
• its ecological component.

In the photo - a standard wooden lining

In addition to all of the above, clapboard cladding significantly improves the sound insulation and thermal insulation of a wooden house.

Flaws

There is only one drawback in this type of skin: the tree needs to be re-treated from time to time, after all, it is a natural material and, if not processed, is subject to decay.

The technology of sheathing a wooden house with clapboard outside

Additional material:

• Beam or profile for lathing
• Insulation, mineral wool type isover or ursa, preferably sheet - for greater heat retention in the house
• Self-tapping screws for fastening the crate
• Clamps for mounting lining
• Vapor barrier for facade ventilation - any of your choice
• Waterproofing.

Required tool:

• screwdriver
• Hacksaw for sawing timber or scissors for metal, in case of using a profile
• Electric jigsaw for cutting lining (you can get by with a hacksaw)
• A stapler with staples for attaching waterproofing to timber or press washers for attaching to a profile.

Operating procedure:

First of all, it is necessary to sheathe the facade with a vapor barrier, making 20 mm holes at the bottom and top every meter.

The vapor barrier is fastened with brackets directly to the facade.

A crate is installed on the vapor barrier, the distance between the timber is 50 cm. If the lining is mounted vertically, then the crate is mounted horizontally. Accordingly, if the lining is horizontal, the crate is vertical.

The crate is leveled to prevent the lining from skewing.

Between the crate it is necessary to lay sheets of insulation. The insulation is conveniently fastened with any washers made of tin. Usually professional finishers use straight hangers, simply cutting them into small squares.

After installing the thermal insulation, everything is covered with waterproofing, which is attached directly to the beam with a stapler.

An example of a wooden house, sheathed with clapboard on the outside

Having finished the preparatory work, you can proceed to the sheathing of a wooden house directly with a clapboard.

With vertical lining work starts from the corner of the house. Here it is very important to set the first board strictly according to the level, since all the others will step into the grooves one into the other.

Thanks to this structure of the board-lining, they are all interconnected very tightly. The absence of gaps is additional insulation and reliable protection against moisture ingress under the lining.

At horizontal planking work is carried out from the bottom up. The first board must be set strictly horizontally, with the spike down, respectively, with the groove up, and then insert one into the other.

The lining is attached to each other either with screws or clamps (this is the name for elongated brackets with two holes into which nails are either hammered or screws are heated).

Recently, screws have become more popular, which, in the event of any mistake, are conveniently pulled out with a screwdriver during dismantling.

The corners of the facade are finished with any corner, and slopes are installed on the windows.

Theoretically sheathe clapboard wooden house not difficult, but, as in all cases, everyone should mind their own business. The cost of work for invited specialists ranges from 200 to 350 rubles. per square meter.

The biggest positive quality in the use of lining for the exterior cladding of the house - this is its environmental friendliness.

The lining board, as a rule, is made from coniferous trees, which gives an additional guarantee of the durability of the house cladding.

At the same time, a slight aroma of resin coniferous tree works soothingly. Aromas are especially captured early in the morning and late in the evening when leaving the house.

Hello. This article will be of interest to all those who want to make repairs in the house with minimal cost and with your own hands. From this material you can learn how to properly sheathe a wall with clapboard and what is needed for this.

What we need for successful wall cladding:

1. Wooden lining (you can use lining from any tree, but the most popular, and which can be found in any hardware store, is pine).
2. Rail (45 * 20 mm, but if necessary, it is possible to use another one, if necessary).
3. Dowels for a stone house, and if your house is made of wood, then you need screws.
4. Small carnations for example: 23 mm with which the lining is nailed to the rail.
5. Hacksaw, or electric jigsaw.
6. Hammer. For convenience, I advise you to take a small hammer.
7. One nail 100 mm. What it is for, you will find out later.
8. Any primer for wood.
9. Varnish (if you are sheathing a room, and not the facade of the house itself, then I advise you to take a water-based varnish, as it does not contain harmful substances and does not leave an unpleasant odor).

And also, if you need to insulate the wall, then you will need

• Insulation.
• Vapor barrier.
• Construction stapler.
• Staples.

And so let's get to work

First of all, you need to nail the rail to the work surface (to the wall).

We do everything carefully and use the level. For better alignment, between the wall and the rail, wooden pegs are hammered. Their size depends on the size of the hole that is formed between the wall and the rail. Here's what you get:

After you have screwed the rail on all the walls you need and leveled it, it's time to take on the insulation of the wall.

Clapboard lining outside the house: a step-by-step process

The insulation must be cut to the size of the closets that were formed after the rail was attached to the wall and nailed to the rail with a stapler, and a vapor barrier should be nailed along the top. Then make sure that everything fits snugly against each other, but rather overlaps. See as shown in the pictures.

When you have insulated the wall, you can take on the sheathing with wooden clapboard. Of course you can also use plastic. But as for me, wooden is better, if only because it is environmentally friendly and, upon completion of the robots, all waste can be disposed of without harm to the environment, which is very important. Plastic lining can be used for finishing the facade of the house and in rooms with high humidity. There it will be more durable than wood.

Right now I will tell you what a 100 mm nail is for. From it we will make a simple fixture for fastening the lining with carnations. To do this, you need to exactly saw off the sharp edge of the nail. And everything is ready, you should get something like this:

It is this device that can save you time on lining the lining and protect it from damage when a hammer strikes a carnation.

Beginning of sheathing

To do this, we measure, mark and cut the lining to size. Then we apply it to the wall, level it and nail it. If you have a gap between the lining and the floor or ceiling, it's okay, because at the end of the robots, you will nail the plinth that will close it. You need to nail the lining with a spike forward.

Nail it into the lower spike that is located at the back:

The next one should be connected like this

Check each new lining with a level. For greater strength, I advise you to nail the lining through the spike to each rail that you attached to the wall at the very beginning.

Finishing the walls

After you fix the entire lining, you can assume that you have done half the work. Why half? Because there is still a lot of work to be done.
So what else needs to be done?

First step- nail all the skirting boards and corners, and then grind the whole thing well with sandpaper.

Second step- clean the entire work surface from dust for priming and further varnishing.

Third step- treat everything well with a primer to protect the wood.

Fourth step- sand again. Since after priming the wood becomes rough, but this is easily corrected with fine sandpaper.

Fifth step- it is the longest, it is varnishing. Why is it the longest? At least due to the fact that you will have to varnish not in one layer, but at least two.

At the end, let the varnish dry and all the lining of the walls with clapboard can be considered complete.
This is what you should get as well:

This is how you can save a small amount, which you can use in the future at your discretion. Well, or spend on more expensive materials for your home.

Do not confuse wooden lining and veneered MDF panels. These materials, while similar in appearance, differ both in their behavior during operation and in installation. Today we will talk about solid wood lining, the features of its choice and installation on the walls of the house.

The choice of wood and lining format

The key indicator that determines the quality of wooden lining is its class. There are four varieties of this finishing material:

1. Extra. This type of lining does not have the slightest signs of defects, such as roll, traction, knots, pitching, strands and the like. Thus, the surface of the wood has not only visual uniformity, but also physical integrity.
2. Class A. The quality of such lining is somewhat lower than the previous class: there are small dense knots in a limited amount, there are inhomogeneities in the pattern of fibers, the formation of reduced density and similar defects. However, wood has a solid structure.
3. Class B. At this level of quality of the lining, the manifestation of pronounced defects is allowed, excluding the physical uniformity of the wood. Such defects include radial cracks, pitch, fallen knots, etc.
4. Class C. This group includes lumber that has not passed quality control to obtain a higher class.

You should also pay attention to the geometry of the profile of the shoulder straps of the lining. The generally accepted standard is a thickness of 12.5 mm with a width of 88 mm without taking into account the protrusion of the spike. It is strongly recommended that when purchasing a lining, arm yourself with a caliper and check the basic dimensions. A deviation of more than 5% is a clear sign of low-quality products. It is also important that the lining profile is maintained along the entire length of the board, otherwise there are guaranteed to be problems with the alignment and docking of the locks.

The lining also differs in profile. In addition to the traditional shape with bevelled chamfers, there are Softline and Calm modifications with rounded edges. The lining of the Land House and Block House types is also popular: the first has a complex milled profile, the second has the shape of a slab, that is, in fact, imitates a rounded beam. There is only one criterion for choosing a profile shape and wood texture - aesthetic. We only note that lining made of hardwood is more preferable for use in wet rooms and with significant temperature fluctuations.

Be sure to pay attention to the quality of processing. For lining, the presence of pile on the front surface is unacceptable: this is a clear sign that the wood was not properly dried before processing. Additionally, check if the lining has so-called plugs: sometimes, to improve the quality class, knots cut out and jam holes with solid wood, which ultimately negatively affects the appearance.

Wall surface preparation

Before lining the walls with clapboard, you need to properly prepare the rough surfaces. Depending on the type of base, the preparation procedure may differ.

Wooden walls must be coated with bioprotective compounds and flame retardantsthat increase fire resistance. If we are talking about walls with the correct geometry and flatness, for example, frame walls, the wall paneling can be mounted directly on them without a crate. However, the joints between sheet materials and carry out rough peeling to remove protruding chips. If, according to the requirements of the calculation for the moisture accumulation of walls, a vapor barrier device is required, it is mounted at this stage. Also, a mandatory requirement when decorating walls with clapboard is to provide a ventilation gap, which in this case can be done using a plastic nodal mesh.

Brick or concrete walls for lining are usually insulated using mineral wool or foil isolon, facing the reflective surface into the room. Installation of insulation is best done by gluing on mounting foam with careful sealing of all joints and junctions. After that, the subsystem is fastened through the thermal protection.

Internal partitions for lining with clapboard must be sheathed with sheet materials. In addition to OSB, for these purposes, you can use LSU, GVL or a thin edged board. Sheathing of the partition frame is necessary to give them monolithic strength, improve sound insulation, and also stabilize the behavior of inhomogeneous media. And, of course, ensuring the safety of the filler.

Enclosing structures made of hygroscopic materials, such as gas silicate or foam concrete, require waterproofing before lining. This is due to the fact that, due to its small thickness, wood is highly susceptible to shrinkage and warping. Therefore, the influence of high humidity on such a finish should be excluded by all means, up to the installation of a false wall with a ventilation gap.

Lathing installation

The frame subsystem for clapboard cladding is mainly made of pine planks with a section of 20-25x40 mm. This is a fairly cheap material, besides, it is well suited for reliable fastening. Before this, the material must be dried in room conditions, ideally, the humidity should be about 12 ± 3%, that is, the same level of moisture accumulation as that of the lining.

The slats of the crate should be perpendicular to the direction of laying the lining. As a rule, the wooden sheathing is directed vertically to avoid joining shoulder straps, that is, the subsystem is located on the horizon. The installation step of the rails can be freely chosen in the range of 40-60 cm, it depends mostly on the weight of the finishing material, the expected operating conditions, including mechanical influences. Without fail, the lathing strips are mounted under all corner junctions, this is necessary to fix the overlays and skirting boards not to the finishing material, but to the subsystem element.

The most important stage in the installation of the crate is its alignment into a single plane and the removal of the geometry of the room. The process should be preceded by a measurement of the room, during which the most significant deviations are noted. Further, one of the walls is taken as the base one, for this purpose it is better to choose the most even plane with the least number of openings. On the walls adjacent to the base one, two vertical lines are marked, spaced from the draft plane by the thickness of the lathing laths, plus the tolerance for the original curvature. By connecting the markings on the floor and ceiling with the help of a coloring cord, four lines of a closed contour are obtained, forming a single plane. The marking of the remaining walls is carried out in a similar way, but now using the "Egyptian" triangle to form right angles.

Alignment of the rails into a single plane is carried out along the mooring cord due to wooden linings of different thicknesses or using pairs of plastic mounting wedges. The fixing of the lathing is carried out by through fasteners into the base material through the lining; for these purposes, both plastic dowels with a flush head and hardened self-tapping screws can be used. Please note that the system of galvanized profiles for the installation of lining is not suitable: both in terms of uniformity of behavior, and in terms of acceptable ways to fix the finish.

Clapboard wall cladding

The set and fastening of the finishing material to the crate is carried out by analogy with plastic and MDF panels. The first board is fastened through from the junction side, the fasteners are subsequently covered with a plinth. On the reverse side, the fasteners are made obliquely into the groove, which is true for all intermediate boards. The last shoulder strap is also attached to both edges.

Fastening the lining to the crate can be done in two ways. For amateur hands, the most suitable fasteners will be self-tapping screws with a threaded body thickness of not more than 2.5 mm, a loose neck about 10 mm long and a cap with a diameter of 4.5 mm. This method eliminates damage to the front surface of the finish when finishing nails, and is also considered faster. A pre-thin body of the lining groove can be drilled along the pitch of the frame.

In the presence of a hairpin or nail gun, installation can be performed on driven fasteners. This solution is best suited for professional decorators. It is recommended to choose 18 gauge studs with a length of about 30-35 mm with a narrow head. First you need to adjust the energy of the shot: the hats must be quenched into the groove body by no more than 1 mm. You can also use brushed studs without hats in the format of a straight or inclined clip: the varnish that holds the pins together melts when the fastener passes through the wood and acts as glue.

When fastening the lining, it is extremely important to leave compensation gaps of 8-10 mm from the adjacent walls and between joined shoulder straps of the order of 1-1.5 mm. To prevent the migration of insects, the gaps at the junctions must be sealed with a plastic filler, such as liquid cork, silicone or acrylic sealant. It is important that at the straight joints of the lining, both edges are fastened to the crate, therefore, along the connection line, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a wide bar - about 60-70 mm.

Finishing

In most cases, lining processing is performed after installation. The exception is walls that are in conditions of high humidity or sudden changes in temperature. In these cases, the wood is preliminarily stabilized, for example, it is impregnated with hot drying oil. In all other cases, the processing of the back surface is not required, this is an unreasonable consumption of materials and efforts.

After fixing, the processing of the lining consists in additional fine grinding of problem areas and the elimination of dents that appeared during fastening, using putty to match the main coating. It is imperative to perform fire and bioprotection of wood with a colorless composition. Also original solution there will be lining firing followed by brushing, but this type of processing should be combined with the overall style decision.

A wide range of coatings can be used as a finishing protective and decorative coating, up to oil impregnation. The decision on the choice of finishing method is always made individually, based on personal aesthetic considerations. For long-term operation in humid environments, a coating with polyurethane varnish or natural drying oil with a high wax content is recommended.

Lining is a natural material that is perfect for facing the house inside and out. Not everyone knows how to properly sheathe walls, so they prefer to hire a team of builders. However, in fact, anyone who wants to make a skin can do it.

Features of finishing work using lining

Wall cladding with clapboard is in no way inferior to siding or profiled sheeting. The material is considered universal by specialists. This board has a tongue and groove. In addition, depending on the profile, it has a layer. Its design is excellent appearance. It will be able to reliably protect the building from blowing from the outside. Not a single finishing material can be compared with it, if we consider the cleanliness and environmental friendliness of the indoor climate.

Variety of options

Sheathing a house, as a rule, begins with the selection the right material. In this case, the purpose of the room must be taken into account. Depending on the profile, it is divided into the following options:

• Clapboard panel. Her profile is simple and technological. It costs from 100 rubles.
• Eurolining is distinguished by the presence of recesses on the wrong side of the panel. Through them, drainage and ventilation of fumes and moisture are carried out. It can be used for facade cladding. The average cost of this product is 200 rubles.
• American designed for exterior decoration. This material costs at least 190 rubles per m2.
• The block house imitates a round tree, as it has a convex profile on the outside. Like a simple lining, it has a flat inner side with grooves and spikes on the side. Its price is 250 rubles.

Varieties of varieties

"Extra" is the designation for the most quality material. It has a smooth and even surface, no knots or defects. This is the most expensive option. If you want to save at least a little, you will need to turn to grade "A". Here, a living knot is found on a certain surface area. "B" may have minor defects in addition to knots. Grade “C” is considered the cheapest, but it has almost no aesthetic appeal.

To choose the best option for yourself, it is useful to watch the video:

How many squares are in a cubic meter?

When purchasing material, it is important to have certain knowledge. For example: what area can cover one cube. This value can change its value: it all depends on the thickness of the purchased products. The quadrature allows you to find out how much m2 of lining is in one cube.

• You can calculate it if you measure the thickness of the coating (12 - 25 mm). This figure is converted to meters. If the thickness of the product is 16 mm, then 0.016 m, respectively, comes out.
• A cubic unit is divided by the resulting number: 1: 0.016 \u003d 62.5 squares.

Material required for lining inside

• In the room, measure the width and length. Additionally, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling is calculated if it is planned to be sheathed.
• The area of ​​​​the walls is calculated based on the height and length.
• All obtained indicators are added together. From here, the quadrature of openings is taken away: windows and doors.

Building material for outdoor decoration

• When calculating the area, the method given above is used.
• Quadrature of the gables by multiplying the height by the length. The resulting value is divided by 2.
• The results of each wall are summed up, and the area of ​​the openings is subtracted from the result.

Finding out the number of boards in the cube of the lining will allow multiplying the total area by the thickness.

What are the types of upholstery work?

Traditionally, a distinction is made between exterior and interior decoration. For the second type, you should choose the euro standard.

Sheathing of walls with clapboard is performed both vertically and horizontally. Regardless of the choice, you need to make a frame. Wooden blocks are used as guides. The optimal cross section is 30x60 mm.

The guides must be fixed to the walls using linings with iron hangers, specially designed for gypsum boards. The lining is attached to the guides with thin nails or kleimers. Thus, it is possible to sheathe almost any room.

Finishing outside

For this purpose, 2, 1 and the highest grade are considered the most suitable. If painting will be done with a colorless varnish, then you will need "Extra" or "A". Only these materials do not have falling knots.

3 stages of house cladding

Outside, finishing work is carried out in stages:

• markup
• Installation
• Stitching

In addition to traditional methods: vertical and horizontal, there is an alternative - herringbone lining. The last option is considered the most economical.

To install racks that act as guides, you need to use a level or plumb line. There should be 2 racks for each corner of the building. Boards or bars are used. They are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

Bars are installed horizontally and vertically near doors and windows. To ensure a flat plane, the upholstery cord is stretched from above and below. Having installed vertical bars, guides are set.

Beginners should know how to properly sheathe walls with clapboard. For fastening in this case, the method of open fasteners is used. The screw is screwed into the boards directly. In this case, you should take care that the fasteners are located on the same line.

If you hire a construction company, then their services are not cheap. For m2, you will have to pay at least 350 rubles, taking into account the complexity of the lining and the type of insulation. Therefore, the savings are obvious if you decide to sheathe the house with a clapboard with your own hands.

Sheathing inside

Here again you will need racks with guides. Only the mount is called hidden. It is performed with kleimers or thin nails hammered into the grooves. The interior finishes also have significant differences. The board is high quality. Held additional work to provide thermal insulation and waterproofing of walls.

When the room has sloping walls, the frame is mounted taking into account the slope. The interior decoration of the walls with the clapboard of the room is carried out with a board with dimensions of 30x50 mm.

First of all, make markings for corner posts. In addition to them, horizontal connections are fixed. The resulting contour is used as a guide.

Finishing depends on the material from which the house is built. If the building is made of wooden building materials, then the vertical posts should not rest against the ceiling or floor. They need to be mounted at a distance of 2 or 2.5 cm. This is due to the fact that the walls in this case can be constantly deformed. The price, if you hire a team, will vary between 600 -1,000 rubles. The video will introduce you to all the stages of installation inside:

By trusting professionals, you can count on fast and quality result. This approach is practical. Doing everything with your own hands, you can save 2 times. Finishing a house with clapboard is not impossible. It takes time and desire.

Clapboard is a pure natural material that has been successfully used for wall decoration for a long time. Clapboard trim is found in residential buildings, baths, utility rooms.

Interior design with clapboard

There is an opinion that this material is more suitable for giving or a bath than for a cottage or apartment. This myth is successfully refuted by designers who organically fit wood trim into the most different styles and directions.

Wooden lining in the interior is organically combined with tiles, wallpaper, plaster. With the skillful combination of textures, you can create an elegant and stylish interior like in this photo:

Original photo ideas for cladding with clapboard furniture can become the basis for your own design:

Lining can become an integral part of the interior in scandinavian style. In this design, it is combined with natural or artificial stone and large ceiling beams.

For those in love with Provence, wall decoration is ideal wooden material natural shades. In this option, the combination of wood with plaster and a rough board floor looks cute and natural.

Another style that requires the use of natural wood paneling is Russian. The walls sheathed with a block house look like the walls of a log house.

Lining is also applicable for high-tech style. In this version, the material is dyed in neutral gray or white and used as a backdrop for bright accessories.

Fans of minimalism should like the combination of lining with strict stone and ceramics.

Varieties of material

Lining can be not only wooden, there are three main types of material:

1. MDF panels.
2. Plastic lining.
3. Wooden lining.

Tree

The traditional and time-tested material is wood. It creates a breathable coating that can be varnished or painted in any color with paint or special impregnation if desired.

Wooden lining has several classes with different quality characteristics:

1. Class Extra. Differs in high quality, lack of defects, the increased durability. Has an appropriate price.
2. A-class. Small knots can be found on material of this quality. Otherwise, there should be no defects. The most popular type of material in terms of price - quality ratio.
3. B-class. There are noticeable factory defects on this lining. But at the same time, the material is quite durable and can be safely used for finishing a bath or balcony.
4. C-class. Most inexpensive option having defects of various kinds and not distinguished by strength. Suitable for finishing non-residential outbuildings.

Another classification of lining - in form:

• eurolining (considered to be of higher quality and has a different appearance);
• ordinary lining, having standard shapes and sizes.

For your information! The most popular clapboard finish inside the house today is from the block house material. This is a eurolining that imitates log house. This design implies a traditional national flavor.

Plastic

It is believed that plastic panels more suitable for sheathing ceiling planes. For walls, this material is not suitable, as it is fragile.

For your information! Exceptions are rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom or kitchen.

trimmed plastic material the ceiling is easy to clean with conventional detergents and does not need special drying, like a wooden counterpart.

MDF

This lining looks very similar to a tree. MDF is easy to mount, has a wide color scheme and varied in texture. Its main drawback is instability to moisture. When wet, this material exfoliates and deforms, so it is not used in rooms with high humidity. MDF can be used for walls or ceiling.

For your information! Combining MDF panels with other materials gives an excellent result.

How to work with wooden lining

Finishing clapboard requires careful preparation of the material. The wood must be thoroughly dried. In addition, the material must be left indoors for a day before starting work, so that it “gets used” to the temperature regime of the room. Walls for sheathing need to be prepared: leveled and treated with special compounds.

For your information! Each element of the lining has a groove and a spike for connecting parts. Thanks to this system, the surface sheathed with wood will be perfectly flat.

Wood is an excellent heat-insulating material, but it is sensitive to temperature changes in the room. Abrupt climate changes can lead to mold growth. In addition, insects that feed on wood can cause great damage to the coating. To keep the lining inside the house for a long time, it is important to monitor temperature regime and treat material from pests.

For your information! Excessive drying of the wood can lead to deformation of the panels.

Mounting the lining is very simple, this task is easy to handle House master. You just need to follow a simple algorithm of work:

• clean the walls from dirt dust;
• level the surface;
• install a crate from a metal profile or a wooden beam (the crate will help hide the bumps and slope of the walls);
• fasten the trim elements using clamps.

You will need an assistant to work, it is not always convenient to fasten long cladding elements alone.

Lining can be carried out in a vertical or horizontal direction. Accordingly, if the skin is horizontal, the frame is installed with vertical posts and vice versa.

To make the crate even, all its elements are set using the building level. The installation of the frame starts from the corners of the room. Between the rails, a distance of half a meter is observed. If necessary, mineral wool insulation can be fixed between the racks of the frame. Wooden racks are pre-treated with compounds from mold and wood-eating insects.

For your information! Minus wooden frame in that it is sensitive to temperature and humidity. That is why professionals advise using a metal profile.

Finishing a room with clapboard can begin from the floor or ceiling, as it is more convenient for the master. In the second case, it is easier to hide undercuts with a regular skirting board. Sheathing elements can be fastened with ordinary nails or clamps. Between the fragments of the coating, you can leave a small gap, it is not necessary to join them closely.

If the rail is shorter than the wall of the room, you can use butt elements - special strips.

How can you paint the lining

For a finished look, you can cover the skin with a varnish composition or paint. Which option is better to decide?

Varnishes for woodwork can vary in composition and are:

• water;
• alkyd;
• polyurethane;
• acrylic;
• acrylic polyurethane.

Acrylic-based lacquer dries quickly and is suitable for interior finishing work. It is moisture resistant and high temperatures. Has different color schemes. Lining with such a coating is easy to wash if necessary.

Universal output - polyurethane varnish. This is the only coating that prevents light wood from turning yellow. For light shades of varnish, you need to use a transparent primer.

Alkyd-based varnishes dry for a long time. Sometimes special solutions are added to the composition to speed up drying. Alkyd varnish has a pungent smell that will stand in the room for a long time. But on the other hand, this coating, like no other, will reliably protect the wood from moisture.

Water varnish is absolutely harmless to humans. It does not emit toxic substances, dries quickly. This varnish can cover the walls in the children's room.

You can paint a tree with different dyes. But it is better to give preference to water-based or acrylic-based paint.

For your information! If you need to update the walls, lined with clapboard, they can be easily repainted. It is necessary to pre-sand the surface with an emery or grinder and apply a new coating.