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The construction of a private house implies not only its interior decoration, but also the sheathing of the outer part, that is, the facade. The most popular solution today is siding, that is, panels made of different materials with lock and hem. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent performance and attractive appearance. Siding can be smooth and glossy, imitate the structure of wood or stone, so it will fit perfectly into any landscape. The most important thing is to choose the right material and lay it according to all the rules.

Depending on the material from which the siding is made, it can be wood, polyvinyl chloride (vinyl), acrylic, fiber cement or metal (steel, zinc, aluminum). All types of finishes differ in cost, durability, resistance to all kinds of damage and other characteristics.

	Type of siding	Flaws
	It can reproduce any texture, looks effective, has a wide range of colors. Sheathing from this type of siding is resistant to negative factors (it can be operated at temperatures from -50 to +50), it is lightweight and has an affordable price.	At high humidity and a sharp temperature drop, it can be deformed, is afraid of mechanical damage, and has a relatively short service life.
	Sun fade resistance and high temperatures(up to +85 degrees), excellent strength characteristics, resistance to chemicals, does not ignite	High price
	The material is strong and durable, resistant to temperature extremes, does not contribute to the reproduction of fungal spores and harmful microorganisms	Low sound insulation, the possibility of delamination of the coating from the metal base in the places of the cut. Aluminum siding is subject to mechanical damage, after which it is no longer possible to restore its original appearance.
	High environmental friendliness, thermal insulation, a variety of textures and patterns on the cut	Insufficient strength, fragility, ability to ignite and deform, difficulty in maintenance, high cost
	The material can replace a natural stone, as it is made from cement, water, sand and cellulose. Resistant to weathering, not subject to corrosion, rot, does not contribute to the development of fungus and mold, easy to operate	High price, difficulty in buying (practically not common in Russia)

If it's about color solutions, then the most common are pastel materials - they are much cheaper than bright siding (this is due to the addition of expensive components that prevent the finish from fading in the sun).

Vinyl material should be mentioned separately, as it is considered the most practical and inexpensive option for finishing the facade of any building. It is made of PVC panels and is presented in a large assortment in any specialized store or on the construction market. In addition, vinyl panels are quite easy to install, so all the work can be done independently.

Siding prices

Varieties and elements of siding

In order not to make a mistake when choosing and installing siding, you need to understand the varieties and additional elements of the material. Depending on the design characteristics and installation features, siding is divided into several types.

Horizontal and vertical siding

Vinyl panels can be horizontal or vertical. The second type is less familiar to the domestic consumer, since in Russia horizontal panels are more often used for finishing buildings.

To choose the right type of material, you should consider some design differences between horizontal and vertical siding.

1. Different geometry and configuration of elements. Theoretically, vertical siding can be mounted horizontally, but without the appropriate experience and knowledge, it is quite difficult to do this - as a result, installation may be incorrect, which will lead to water leakage and other troubles.
2. No additional perforation. There are perforations at the bottom of the horizontal panels, while the vertical ones do not.

Otherwise, these types of siding practically do not differ from each other, since they are made from the same material, and also require certain rules to be followed during installation.

Wall panels

This type of material is intended for facing vertical surfaces and, in turn, is divided into several types:

The main difference between a ship board and a Christmas tree is the presence of a characteristic break in the center of the panel, with the first type being the most common in Europe and Russia, and the second in the USA and Canada. Siding types are marked with Latin letters T (triple herringbone), D (double) and S (single). After letter designation there is a number that indicates the width of the panel - for example, marking S 4.5 indicates a single herringbone panel with a bend thickness of 4.5 inches (approximately 114 mm).

Block house prices

Block house

Plinth siding is a material used to cover the underside of a building. They are twice as thick as conventional cladding panels, due to which they are distinguished by increased strength, are not subject to deformation and all kinds of damage. At the same time, the mass of the panels is very small, that is, for their installation it is not necessary to further strengthen the foundation.

Soffit

Soffit is essentially a ceiling siding that is used to cover the protruding part of the roof and finish ceilings in attics and attics. Such panels not only give the building a perfect and finished look, but also protect the space under the roof from precipitation, insects, etc. Structurally, they are divided into two- and three-lane, and in addition, they are perforated, mixed and non-perforated.

Soffit prices

Additional elements

In order for siding to look attractive, it is necessary to use not only panels, but also profiles and accessories that give it a complete look.

These add-on elements include:

• the starting profile is used to install the first row of panels, from which the installation work begins;
• finishing profile for row fastenings under the roof;
• the outer corner and the inner corner close the edges of the facing panels laid on the outer and inner corners of the building;
• The J-bevel is used to clad the top of the façade and give it a finished look. appearance;
• The J-profile is an auxiliary accessory used in conjunction with the J-bevel;
• H-profile connects the panels in the middle of the wall, closes their edges and is used to implement all kinds of design solutions;
• molding is a cross between a finish and a J-profile, and is necessary for attaching vertical skin at the transition points to spotlights;
• near-window profile is used for facing window and doorways;
• ebb acts as a drainage cornice;
• cash is needed for decorative finishes door and window openings;
• the slope is an auxiliary profile used in combination with platbands;
• the edging profile provides cover for joints and joints between panels, and can also replace the start profile or vertical panels.

It should be noted that all of the above fittings for siding panels may differ in width, length and configuration, and these characteristics are unique not only for the products of an individual manufacturer, but also for each line. facing material.

Installation of siding panels is a fairly simple, but painstaking and time-consuming task that requires not only accuracy and accuracy, but also strict adherence to installation rules.

General rules

The technology and sequence of installation of siding panels depends on the characteristics of the material and surface, but there are several general points that should be remembered when performing work.

1. Siding can be installed in three ways: on an aluminum surface, directly on the facade and on the crate. The first method has one serious drawback - a high price, and it is possible to mount siding directly on the walls of a building only in cases where they are made of wood and have a fairly flat surface. The easiest way to install panels is to pre-clad the facade with a crate, which will not only make the cladding smooth and neat, but also speed up the work.

   

2. In the case of log buildings, all cladding work is carried out only when the structure has completely shrunk.
3. Vinyl panels are recommended to be fixed exclusively to factory holes - the material should not be punched, as this may adversely affect its service life.

   

4. Wooden elements are fastened with galvanized hardware, otherwise the tree will quickly begin to rot.
5. It is better for beginners to start installation from the back of the facade, so that by the time they move to the front, the person has already developed certain experience and skills.
6. Installation of siding panels is carried out from the rear corner with an overlap in rows from top to bottom, which makes the joints between them less noticeable.
7. When performing work, it is necessary to control the evenness of every third installed row, otherwise all the others will also be skewed.

   

8. Very important point is that, under the influence of temperature, the panels can expand and contract - if the fixing force is incorrectly calculated, the panels can subsequently be deformed.
9. Fasteners are hammered exclusively into the center of the factory hole. If this is not possible, carefully widen the hole with a perforator (do not drive nails into the end of the hole, otherwise the panel may be seriously damaged).

   

10. Siding elements do not need to be nailed tightly - they should move slightly from side to side.

    

    Mistake 2. Installers screw the screws all the way into the perforation, this cannot be done

11. When attaching the panel to the frame, there is no need to push it up or down: the force is applied from the bottom up until the connection of the upper element snaps into the lock of the lower one.
12. At the joints of the facing panels with additional elements, a gap of 6-12 mm thick should be left. If work is carried out at low temperatures, the gap width should be at least 10-12 mm.

    

    

13. Fasteners should be driven in as evenly and straight as possible so that the panels do not deform or warp.
14. If a crack appears on the panel, it is better to replace it with another one, as the crack will expand over time.

The process of installing siding panels consists of several stages, and they must be performed in a certain sequence - only in this case the result will fully meet expectations.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Step by step instructions for installing siding

Installation of siding begins with the calculation of the required amount of material. To do this, you can use special calculators on construction sites or a simple formula. The building should be divided into simple geometric figures, measure their areas and summarize the resulting figures. In addition, it is necessary to make detailed diagram building cladding, which will indicate all the necessary profiles and accessories, as well as their location. It should be remembered that approximately 10% of the total volume of material will go to fitting and trimming, and if the work is done for the first time, some elements may be damaged.

After buying siding, you can proceed to the main stages of work, and the first of them is the preparation of improvised tools and materials.

Stage one. Preparation of tools and materials

Siding panels for installation and materials for the manufacture of battens must be absolutely intact, without cracks, chips or flaws. If the work is to be carried out in winter time, the siding should be allowed to "lie down" on the street at a temperature not lower than 15 degrees.

In addition, it will be necessary to prepare fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails, staples), which will enter the material by at least 20 mm, and a number of tools necessary for facing the building.

1. Electric saw. To speed up the cutting of siding, it is best to use an electric saw (hand or stationary), and the blade should be set to reverse (when working with wood, the tool is used as usual). If the installation is carried out in a cold season, you need to move the blade as slowly as possible.
2. Scissors for cutting metal. Polyvinyl chloride and other materials from which siding panels are made (especially polyvinyl chloride) are quite simple to process, and with the help of such a tool you can easily give the panels the desired shape.
3. Perforator. Required for drilling holes for fasteners.
4. Punch. It is used for punching holes (so-called hooks) on the sides of panels when installing siding in under a roof or under openings.
5. Siding removal tool. It happens that when working with panels it is necessary to dismantle one or more of them, so it is better to acquire the right tool, something like a hook.

In addition to all of the above, to perform the work, you should prepare a hammer, a jigsaw, a level, a tape measure and a piece of chalk, and it is better to protect your eyes with special glasses.

Stage two. Surface preparation

High-quality wall preparation is a guarantee that the siding sheathing will look neat and attractive. It is best to mount the panels on top of the waterproofing material (it is not necessary to lay waterproofing, but experts recommend protecting all places where the siding will come into contact with building walls and openings). Before starting work from the surface must be dismantled old finish, as well as all elements that may interfere with installation: shutters, gutters, etc., and clean the surface of the walls from dirt and dust.

Stage three. Manufacturing of crates

Before installing the battens, you should check the reliability of all elements of the building: for example, replace all loose and broken boards. To build a frame for siding, dry and straight bars of appropriate sizes (usually 4x6 cm) are taken without signs of rot, stains or deformations, and they should be pre-treated with antiseptics and flame retardants (substances that prevent fire). A more reliable, but rather expensive solution is a galvanized profile, which is mounted in the same way as a wooden frame.

If horizontal siding is used for cladding, frame guides are mounted vertically, and vice versa. The distance between them should be 30-40 cm (in regions with difficult weather conditions - about 20 cm). Additional rails are installed around door and window openings, at the bottom and top of the facade, as well as where additional accessories (for example, lanterns) will hang.

All parts must be mounted evenly, checking their level from time to time. You can fasten the elements of the crate in any way, but the best option are ordinary nails. If the frame is attached to concrete or brick, holes should be made in the walls with a perforator. Locations where siding will come into contact with building materials should be properly sealed to protect them from moisture and frost.

Stage four. Panel mounting

The most important stage of building cladding is the installation of panels on the crate. It should be carried out as accurately and accurately as possible, in compliance with the rules listed above. The actual algorithm for mounting siding panels is as follows.

Step 1. Determine the point from which the installation will begin. To do this, find a point in the lower frame guide, step back 50 mm from it, put a mark and slightly screw in the self-tapping screw. Consistently move along the perimeter of the building, continuing to mark and screw in the screws. They also need to be screwed into the corners of the building.

Step 2 Stretch the twine between the corner marks, mark on the laths of the lathing the places where the corner profiles will be installed (it is from them that the installation begins). Attach a profile to the corner of the frame and put marks along the edges with chalk, then attach it to the crate. The rest of the corner profiles, external and internal, are fastened in the same way, and the fastening must begin from the top hole, from top to bottom.

Step 3 After the corner elements are installed, you can proceed to the installation of accessories on window and door openings: platbands, ebbs and finishing plates.

Step 4 Moving along the perimeter of the rope, make a 6 mm indent from the edge of the corner profile and attach the start profile, and then the first start panel. If it is attached correctly, the rest of the siding will also lie as it should. Be sure to leave a centimeter gap between the elements to compensate for the possible temperature deformation of the vinyl. The panels should not be fastened too tightly - there should be a gap of at least 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the surface of the material. Also, do not pull the panel up, otherwise it may crack or deform.

Step 5 After attaching the accessories, the installation of the facing panels is carried out, which is carried out from the bottom to the top, starting from the starting ones. The panel is inserted into the first in a row and mounted to the frame with hardware, and they need to be driven in, starting from the center and moving towards the sides. According to the height of the panels, they should be installed on top of each other: the lower lock of the higher element is included in interlock connection bottom. Panels can be assembled into sections of arbitrary height and width, depending on design solution. If the panel closes the opening of a window or door, it is necessary to cut off the excess piece so that it fits between the casing or other accessory.

Step 6 The last top row is installed only after the finish line. It is necessary to nail close to the roof, measure the distance between its lower part and the lock of the panel of the penultimate row. Subtract 1-2 mm from the received figures for the gap. Take the whole panel, mark it so that it fits between the J-profile and the bottom panel, cut off the upper part along with the lock.

Step 7 On the top of the prepared panel, create so-called hooks every 20 cm - make small cuts and bend them to the front side. Insert the trimmed part into the bottom panel and snap it into the locking joint with a slight movement.

In the photo - installation of the finishing bar

Step 8 The final step is facing the gables of the roof. The work is carried out as follows: the J-profile is fastened along the corner of the gable (if more than one element is required, the second must be fastened with an overlap of 2 cm).

Step 9 Measure the angle of the roof and cut the siding accordingly. Most likely, the last panel will have to be nailed with a fastener. This is the only case when it is allowed to drive a nail or screw a self-tapping screw right through the panel.

On this, the installation of siding panels can be considered complete. If everything was done as it should be, the result of the work will be an aesthetic, reliable and durable cladding.

It should be noted that vertical siding is mounted in a similar way. The only difference is that the crate for its installation should not be vertical, but horizontal.

Removing damaged panels

If the panel has been damaged and a new one needs to be put in its place, the work is carried out as follows.

1. Insert a dismantling hook between two panels: the damaged one and the one above.
2. Pry the lock and pull the tool down along the edge to release the damaged panel.
3. Pull out the fasteners with a nail puller - if they sit too tight, you can simply hammer them into the frame elements.
4. Remove the panel, put a new one in its place and secure with hardware.
5. Using the same hook, slide the top panel onto the lock when laid down, and snap it into place.

Siding panel care

Siding panel cladding is much easier to maintain than other cladding. It needs to be washed from time to time with a hose, and to remove old stains, use a soft brush or cloth. In order not to damage the material, do not use abrasive household products and hard improvised means. Also, do not clean siding with chlorine bleaches, organic solvents, products that contain acetone, or are used to polish furniture. Contaminants from its surface are well removed with a solution of water with washing powder, as well as any water-based cleaners. If you need to remove chewing gum from the panel, you can use a solution of water and vinegar.

Installation of metal siding under a log: step-by-step instruction Siding accessories

How to make a crate for siding with your own hands

Siding is one of the most popular exterior building materials today. It is inexpensive and has excellent qualities. It is easy to install and reliable in operation.

Instructions on how to install siding is a universal guide.

Various types of siding are mounted on a pre-prepared crate.

The choice of material for the crate

The frame can be assembled from wooden bars or metal profiles. The second is more preferable because it has greater reliability and durability. Also, metal products are much easier to attach to uneven walls.

Profiles are attached to the wall in half a meter increments. For this, special suspensions are used. Thus, you can avoid height differences and irregularities by picking up the crate according to the level.

A wooden frame will cost less, but you should pay attention to the condition of the material:

• Wood should not exfoliate;
• The beam must be even and not deformed;
• There should be no signs of rot or stains on the wood.

In addition, it is necessary to ensure that the material is treated with an antiseptic. This will avoid exposure to moisture and microorganisms.

If the walls of the house are wooden, they also need to be processed.

Foundation preparation

Before you do the installation of siding with your own hands, you need to prepare the basis for the frame with your own hands. Since there will be no access to the outer wall after sheathing, it must be cleaned of debris, flaking elements, and so on.

If there are any defects, they must be eliminated with putty. The wall should be more or less even. Also, it is necessary to remove all unnecessary elements, such as tiles, platbands, bars and gutters.

Installing guides

The most common method of fastening siding is horizontal. This means that the crate will need to be fixed vertically.

If the rails are mounted to wooden house, then nails or self-tapping screws are used, if the wall is made of a concrete block or brick, then dowels must be used, the holes for which must first be drilled in the wall.

Each rail must be level.

Installation of the first panel

Siding for a private house is better to start mounting from a less visible side of the house, so that you can orient yourself and practice working with a specific material.

We install the panel in the lock connection and in the corner profile;

Fasten the panel to the frame; Mounting clearances must be observed. If the work is carried out in warm weather, the gap between the material and fasteners should be about 5 mm. If we work in the cold, then about 10 mm.

Note!

It is not necessary to nail the siding hard, because under the influence of temperatures it will expand and narrow, tight fastening can deform it.

When sheathing siding, it is also important to drive nails correctly. This must be done at a right angle and strictly in the center of the hole. Usually it is recommended to drive in nails at a distance of up to 40 cm from each other.

Also, during installation, you need to ensure that the panels are not stretched, otherwise they may change shape and incorrectly connect to each other.

In order for the siding to be as in the photo - beautiful and even, you need to know and apply some subtleties that will help you cope with some of the difficulties during installation.

Fastening is carried out strictly from left to right, from bottom to top.

Note!

The panels are arranged horizontally and vice versa if the crate is horizontal.

We monitor the gaps when fastening the material. This is especially important for vinyl and metal siding. They are the most affected by temperature.

We fix the siding only with the help of factory holes. First of all, this applies to vinyl panels. If you hammer a nail directly into them, the service life will drop sharply, they will be more prone to destruction.

During installation wood siding it is necessary to use galvanized products, this will help to avoid early damage to the material.

Facing a house from a log house is carried out no earlier than half a year after the completion of construction. The tree must shrink. If this rule is not followed, the entire siding will simply lead.

Note!

Separately, it is worth mentioning the installation of basement siding. Under it, a material different from the whole house is chosen, since it acts as a frame.

The frame for it is done in the same way. As a rule, the basement space is left without insulation, so that the walls can be better ventilated and "breathe".

DIY siding photo installation

It is necessary to choose a material that will provide a high degree of protection of the walls from negative impact environment and will be able to maintain decorative properties throughout the entire period of operation. That is why many people choose siding for finishing not only new buildings, but also for restoring erected buildings and objects. A simple “constructor” type assembly technology will allow you to quickly and cost-effectively install siding with your own hands - instructions for dummies describe in detail all stages of work.

The popularity of siding is difficult to overestimate due to its versatility, affordability and aesthetics.

Finishing with siding panels of buildings, in comparison with other materials, has the following advantages:

• High resistance to negative external factors: precipitation, sudden changes in temperature, certain chemical compounds and ultraviolet radiation. The material retains its strength and decorative properties throughout the entire period of operation declared by the manufacturer.

• The design of the sheathing and lathing has a minimum weight, which allows finishing objects with shallow foundations without additional strengthening of the supporting structure.
• No need to level the facade walls due to installation on the crate. This significantly reduces the time of work, and also allows you to lay heat and waterproofing layers in the space between the wall and the siding.
• Undemanding cladding for care or any maintenance.
• High level of fire safety and resistance to minor mechanical stress.
• The presence of a wide range of decorative colors will allow you to choose the necessary one without any problems and make a unique home design without spending money on purchasing and painting in desired color. Moreover, unique textured images with imitation of natural materials are also available, which are distinguished by a clear and rich pattern.
• A simple installation technology available for development by people who have not previously encountered construction work.

Types of additional components

In order to simplify the installation of facade cladding, many additional components are produced to ensure a tight fit to various elements of the house, mounting surfaces of complex shapes, as well as reliable engagement with the main wall. The components are designed to ensure the rigidity and stability of the structure, as well as prevent the formation of moisture on the inside material.

Important information! The material of the components must match the siding in order to ensure uniform thermal characteristics and prevent deformations due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients. Therefore, it is recommended to use only original additional and fasteners.

List of additional accessories:

• The start and finish strips help avoid distortions and other installation errors, as well as improve the decorative properties of the finish.
• corner elements. Designed to decorate the corners of the building and hide the crate. Protects against dust and moisture inner surface panels.
• Window and door frames are intended for finishing adjunctions of the corresponding apertures. J-profiles can also be used for these purposes, but they have worse aesthetic properties.
• Window and door profiles are used for finishing and protection against external environment slopes. Due to their use, the slopes look natural and aesthetically pleasing.
• J profile. It is used for fastening of ordered panels in the side part. It has versatility, therefore it is also used instead of platbands, finishing and corner profiles, even though there are specialized elements.
• J-bevel. A special element designed to be installed as a cornice. It is a specialized replacement for the J-profile in roof connection installations.
• Low tide. Used to remove moisture from the roof, as well as the design of window and door openings.
• Ceiling spotlights. Designed for finishing ceilings of open structures: terraces, summer kitchens, etc. They can be made solid or perforated. They perform not only decorative functions, but also provide ventilation of the space between the wall and the siding along the crate, and also protect internal structures from pests.
• Moldings. Used to connect horizontal and vertical planes panels.
• H-profile. It is used for building panels along the length.

Siding installation price per m 2 for work

Sheathing with siding of objects with the involvement of professional teams of builders will be performed with high quality and in the shortest possible time. At the same time, it is not necessary to order the execution of a full range of works, but only individual services are sufficient.

The cost of the work will depend on the following factors:

• The number of window and door openings, the sheathing of which requires a significant waste of time and the use of special additional elements.
• Wall areas.
• The complexity of the work. IN this concept includes the presence of walls with complex plane transitions, the need to install insulating layers, the type of wall material and other factors.
• The type of material selected.

In each case, the miscalculation will be performed by a specialist of the selected company. The table below shows the prices for the installation of siding, the price per m 2 for work.

Approximate cost of carrying out the main and auxiliary works during the installation of siding for Moscow

Facade works	Unit rev.	price, rub.
Installation vinyl siding on the walls	m2	250
Installing vinyl siding on a roof	m2	300
Fiber cement siding installation	m2	680
Installation of a hydro-vapor barrier film	m2	60
Installation wooden crate on wood	m2	100
Installation of wooden crates on brick or concrete	m2	200
Installation of insulation 50 mm	m2	90
Installation of insulation 100 mm	m2	170
Fire-bio processing of timber	running meters	14
Fire-bio wood surface treatment	m2	80
Fire-bio processing boards	running meters	19
Installation of metal tides	running meters	100
Installation of ventilation grilles	PC.	140

Preparatory work

Before carrying out installation work on the cladding of the facade, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. They include the following steps: choosing the type of panels and lathing, calculating materials and additional elements, as well as determining the number of heat and waterproofing layers.

Panel type selection

The choice of material for sheathing largely determines the service life of the entire structure, strength and performance characteristics. Currently, the choice is limited to the following options:

• Wood. Differs in the high level of thermal insulation, environmental friendliness and excellent decorative qualities. Its cost is minimal compared to other types of siding. However, it has a short service life (up to 8 years) and requires periodic maintenance (treatment with antiseptics and painting).

• Metal. It has strength and durability, resistance to mold, fungi and pests, and is also able to withstand significant temperature changes. It is very sensitive to damage, since even a small scratch on the protective layer can lead to the onset of corrosion processes.

• Vinyl. It is the most profitable option, as it is devoid of all the disadvantages of wooden and metal siding. It has a minimum weight, is resistant to any precipitation, environmentally friendly, has a maximum service life of up to 50 years. It features a wide range of colors. With such advantages, the cost of this material is relatively low, so it is recommended to choose it by experts. Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation video will allow you to appreciate all the advantages of this material.

Calculation of the amount of materials

The amount of material can be calculated quite simply if you have a building project on hand. Otherwise, you will have to measure the length and width of each of the walls, as well as window and door openings. Based on the data obtained, a sketch or drawing should be made. After that, the amount of material that will be used to create the crate is determined, taking into account the uniform arrangement of vertical or horizontal guides with an interval of 40-50 cm and fasteners along the guides with the same interval.

Helpful information! You can use the building project for calculations only if it was erected no later than 2-3 years. It is connected with possible appearance defects on the walls (for example, cracks caused by subsidence of the foundation), which, after elimination, can cause the walls to widen by several centimeters. When installing the facade cladding of a building, this is critical in that you have to find a way out of the situation already during the installation process.

After calculating the amount of materials for the crate, you need to calculate the number of panels. To do this is quite simple by dividing the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls, minus the area of ​​the openings, into the dimensions of one panel. It is recommended to add a margin of approximately 10-15% to the obtained value, which will take into account possible damage during delivery or installation.

Calculator for calculating the quantity and cost of siding for a house

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List of required tools

For installation work you will need the following tools:

Preparing walls for installation

First you need to dismantle the roofing, window and door parts that protrude beyond the plane of the wall: skirting boards, ebbs, drainage pipes with fasteners from the roof, etc. This will allow you to get unhindered access to the walls. If any finishing layers have been installed or applied, they are also recommended to be cleaned to the main wall material.

Thorough inspection of strength and reliability load-bearing structures will guarantee the absence of problems during the operation of the siding, which are associated with the implementation of its complete or partial dismantling. If cracks, irregularities or other defects are found, they will need to be eliminated.

Do-it-yourself siding installation - instructions for dummies

After the successful completion of the preparatory work, it is necessary to plan the installation work. To do this, you need to place building materials near the object in order to have easy access to them. The stages of installation work are as follows:

• Installing the crate.
• Profile mounting
• Installation of additional elements.
• Paneling.

Lathing installation

Sheathing panels are recommended to be installed horizontally, since in this arrangement it is quite easy to build up the sheathing. Therefore, the guide battens must be vertical. Of course, a vertical cladding method is also allowed, but in this case, the appearance of the building will have an unaesthetic appearance due to the visual effect of narrowing the walls.

Installation of the crate for siding can be carried out on nails, dowels or self-tapping screws, depending on the material of the walls. First, the wall is marked with chalk or a marker, in accordance with the drawing made during the calculations. When mounting on dowels, we pre-drill holes in the wall.

We install rails from one of the corners of the building. First, we fix the upper part, then align the position vertically with a plumb line. After finally fixing the guide. Then, along the lower level of the fixed rail, we stretch the rope in a strictly horizontal position to simplify the alignment of all subsequent rails.

The subsequent rails are installed according to the markup with control of their position.

Important information! All guide battens on each wall must be located in the same plane. Any distortions, even minimal ones of more than 2-3 mm, are unacceptable, since these defects will appear on the siding in the form of a deterioration in the aesthetics of the view or the impossibility of fixing the planks properly.

If it is required to install a hydro- and heat-insulating layer, then this should be done on top of the installed crate. In this case, the waterproofing is laid on top of the walls and battens, then insulation mats are tightly inserted into the gap between the guides and, if necessary, covered with a second layer of waterproofing. If expanded polystyrene or polystyrene is used as a heater, then you can save on waterproofing, but pay special attention to joints and junctions so that there are no gaps. Do-it-yourself siding installation instructions for dummies must be taken into account before installing the facade material.

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Installing profiles

We install J-profiles on top of the crate, on which the cladding panels will be attached. Since all structural elements were strictly aligned with a stretched horizontal rope, there will be no problems with mounting the profiles.

We start the installation from the bottom of the structure. We take the starting profile and fix it at a lathing height of 5 cm, having previously screwed two self-tapping screws at this height on both sides of the wall as a guide. At the same time, we provide enough space for the installation of corner profiles. You can cut off the excess part immediately after fixing or before installation. Self-tapping screws or nails should be placed approximately in the middle of a special hole designed to secure the profile.

Helpful information! An interval of 8-10 mm must be observed between horizontal and angular profiles, which will take into account the thermal expansion of the metal. You can not indent if you correctly cut the corner profile in the right places, and then cover the cut lines with a protective layer.

After fixing the starting profiles, we proceed to the installation of external corners. First, we mark the soffits to determine the edges of the elements, and then install the corner profile with a gap of 3 mm to the soffit or roof. Fastening is carried out in the same way as for the starting bar. Be sure to center the profile until the moment of tightening. Internal corner profiles are mounted similarly to external ones.

In some cases, when the height of buildings is from one floor along the length, the angles can be more than 3 m and it becomes necessary to build up the profile. In such situations, it is necessary to cut each subsequent profile so that it can be inserted into the previous one. To do this, cut off the side parts for fastening the siding with metal scissors, leaving only the front corner part. The cutting length must be at least 25 mm. Additionally, you will need to leave a gap between the two elements of approximately 9 mm.

Installation of additional elements for window openings

Windows in various types of buildings can be installed in Various types openings, on which the installation method and the use of additional elements depend. Therefore, the installation of near-window siding strips has the following features:

• With opening slopes larger than 19 cm, it is necessary to fix the outer corners along the perimeter and mount facing strips on them. Slopes outside are decorated with standard elements. In some cases, they need to be trimmed a little to size. We insert the cladding panel into the corner profile and the locking connection of the starting strip, and then fasten it to the crate.

• If the slope size is from 5 to 19 cm, then for the installation of siding in the upper and lower parts, euro-planks with a standard length of 220 mm are used, which are cut off in place. In order to save money, the use of J-profiles and plastic linings is allowed. Mounting is similar to the first option.
• There are no slopes, and the window is installed flush with the wall, or its size is up to 5 cm. In this case, suitable platbands with a width of 62 mm are mounted. An alternative may be J-profiles, which are installed and fastened in the same way as described above. To accurately connect the profiles, it is necessary to make small cuts on each side, bend down, settle the excess parts of the material and join.

• Arched or swept-shaped openings are sheathed with siding in the same way as walls on J-profiles, however, they are carefully folded under the shape of the opening.

siding

The first plank is usually installed on the side of the building that is least visible from the street and courtyard. This is necessary for beginners to get the hang of a little to properly fasten the planks. Installation is carried out in the starting bar in a special clamp with fixation on self-tapping screws at the points of contact with the batten guides.

It is important to perform the correct engagement in order to avoid distortions and loss of structural strength. Be sure to observe technological indents of 6-9 mm. When tightening the screws, it is strictly forbidden to deform the panels, as they will then become unusable.

We build up the subsequent planks with an overlap with engagement to the bottom row on special locks. Pre-locks and mounting frames must be shortened. Every third row must be checked for the absence of distortions. When approaching the opening, cut off the excess part of the plank.

Windows are sheathed with siding only after the installation of low tide. To do this, the opening is measured and the elements are cut to size with a bend at the fixing point at a right angle and from the drain side. After that, the ebb is attached to the frame using an adhesive or liquid nails to achieve high tightness and contact density.

From the sides window opening set the J-profile. Measure height window frame, and then cut the profile to size. The lower parts are slightly bent for a tight fit with the tide. A finishing bar is attached to the bottom profile along the width of the opening, and a starting bar is attached to the top one.

For sheathing doorways, they proceed in the same way as in the case of a window - they install J-profiles and corner additional elements, if there are slopes. More accurately, do-it-yourself siding installation is described by instructions in video format.

When approaching the junction of the roof at a distance of one or two strips, it is necessary to stop the sheathing and think over the competent implementation of the docking. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the lock of the penultimate row to the finish bar. From the value obtained, it is necessary to subtract 10-20 mm per indent. Then you should mark the whole panel and cut off the upper locking connection from it. In the upper part we make hooks (cuts with bending towards the front part) with a step of 200 mm. We insert the finished bar into the penultimate panel with snapping into the lock.

For sheathing the pediment, we install a corner inner element at the junction with the wall and an outer one at the end of the roof or a J-profile. Sheathing is done in the same way as for walls.

Do-it-yourself siding installation, according to the instructions for dummies, requires compliance with the following rules and recommendations:

• When installing metal or vinyl panels, be sure to observe the gap with the fasteners, as they can expand as a result of thermal fluctuations.
• When attaching vinyl panels, be sure to use only special holes and in no case do them yourself.
• The lock connections must be tight, but not overtightened with the use of significant forces.
• When attaching profiles to nails, it is recommended to leave a gap of 1 mm between them and the head.
• It is highly not recommended to seal the overlaps of the skin with sealants, as this can cause undesirable deformations due to differences in thermal expansion coefficients, as well as make it difficult to dismantle if it is necessary to examine the condition of the wall.
• All fasteners must be located exactly in the center of the holes.
• Sheathing is performed from the bottom-up or left-to-right.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself siding installation is described in detail - an instruction for dummies with tips and tricks. Explained how to do it right preparatory work and avoid many installation problems. Particular attention was paid to the lining of openings and the connection to the roof. Good luck with the repair!

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sheathe a house siding even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some nuances. If you decide to choose as a facing material vinyl siding, do-it-yourself installation more than simple.

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation rules

Vinyl siding has a significant thermal expansion. Do not fasten siding through vinyl ! For fixing on its mounting plate there are special elongated oval holes. Fixing horizontal elements siding installed in the center of the holes. Fastening of all vertical elements siding also produced in the center of the holes, except for the first one. The first nail or self-tapping screw is installed to the top edge of the hole in the top of the panel siding . It turns out that the vertical panel will hang on this screw, and the rest of the fasteners will secure its position.

Siding you need to attach to the crate or wall, but do not attract the canvas to them, leaving a gap of 1 mm. Otherwise, on a hot sunny day, the panel will lengthen and, pressed tightly against the crate or wall, will turn into an “accordion”, and on a frosty winter night, on the contrary, it will shrink and burst. Not tight fastening allows siding perform thermal compression-stretching without negative consequences. For the same reason, do not allow panels to be fixed with oblique or bent fasteners. They stretch the panel and interfere with its temperature movement. If it is not possible to install the fastener in the center of the mounting hole, increase the length of the hole with a punch or any other tool available.

Sometimes there is no other way to fasten short cut panels other than to fasten it through the vinyl. In this case, make a hole with a puncher in the top of the panel and secure.

At connect the latch lock and fasten the siding without stretching. Otherwise, you will not only stretch the profile of the panel and make it not beautiful, but also increase friction in the lock and at the same time jam the panel at the fastener. All this will prevent the thermal expansion of both the fixed and already fixed panel.

When entering a horizontal siding in any adjoining profile, for example, in a corner, J or H-profile, leave a gap of approximately 6 mm between the input panel and the bottom of the gutter of the receiving profile, and for winter installation - 9 mm. Otherwise, even a properly fixed siding on a hot sunny day will lengthen, rest against the bottom of the gutters and bend in waves, or bend the receiving profile. When installing vertical panels and accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: 3 mm at the top and about 6 mm at the bottom. Do not ignore the fastening part of the siding panel. If you see that during the thermal elongation of the panels, the fastening parts of the various panels may abut against each other, then cut them.

Use galvanized self-tapping screws for fastening. Vinyl siding serves 50 years, during which time the corrosive fasteners will rust and dirty smudges will appear. If corrosive fasteners are initially used and correct installation, siding sheathing will remain beautiful for the entire service life. For fastening siding use self-tapping screws with a thickness of about 3 mm and a cap diameter of at least 8 mm. The fastener installation step is equal to the crate step and is 40 cm.

In other words, when DIY vinyl siding installation fasten it so that nothing interferes with its natural movement as a result of temperature changes. Siding panels should move freely from thermal contraction-expansion, without resting on anything. This is the main rule of installation.

Do not tighten the screws close to the panel. Leave a gap of approximately 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the siding panel. The panel must be secured but not tightened. When installing, insert the hook of the lock into the counterpart without tensioning the panel.

vertical siding horizontal siding Install fasteners in the center of the holes. One incorrectly installed fastener can stop the thermal expansion, and the panel warps.

Setting up the starting strips When installing the starting strips, leave a gap of 12 mm between them. When joining the wall panels “overlap”, cut the fasteners so that after installation there is a gap of 12 mm between them.

Insertion of horizontal siding into the adjoining profile and installation of vertical panels When inserting horizontal siding into the adjoining profile, leave a gap of 6-9 mm between the end of the panel and the gutter of the adjoining profile. When installing vertical panels or accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: at the top 3-4 mm, and at the bottom about 6-8 mm.

WALL PREPARATION

Before installation siding it is necessary to complete all facade work, caulk the seams in the chopped walls, remove unnecessary nails and other fasteners, install thermal insulation (if such is provided for by the project). On the walls being repaired, trims should be removed from window and door openings, rotten boards should be replaced and all loose structures should be fixed.
On frame walls siding can be mounted directly to the wall, provided that the wall and the corners are even. On stone, block and uneven wooden walls siding is attached to the leveling crate. Siding installation not necessarily done on vertical surfaces. The wall should be flat over the entire plane: without bulges and without a “screw”. It is possible to clad siding on inclined surfaces, but it is easier to work with vertical ones.

Options for preparing walls for siding installation

When installing the crate, dry wood is used (moisture content - 12-14%), otherwise the crate will lead when it dries, and with it the siding. Bars with a section of 25 (30, 40, 50) x60 mm treated with antiseptics and fire retardants or galvanized plasterboard profiles of the same width are used. Wide laths eliminate the failure of fasteners with any placement of the siding panel.

The lathing is installed along the perimeter of the walls to be faced, including the gables of the roofs and along the perimeter of windows, doors, other openings and openings. It is better not to use lower horizontal perimeter gratings, they prevent air exchange under the siding sheathing. Other gratings for horizontal siding installation installed on the wall vertically, and for vertical installation of siding, respectively - horizontally. Keep the distance between the gratings approximately equal to 40 cm. Lattices should be fixed to the wall in increments of 40 cm.

Work begins with the installation of corner gratings. Then cords are stretched between them and the rest of the slats are stuffed. The distance from the slats to the wall is adjusted by direct hangers, but other fastening methods can be used, such as wooden leveling pads. The verticality and evenness of the crate is controlled by a building level (alcohol or laser), or a plumb line and cords. If the lining is carried out along inclined surfaces, then the evenness of the grating installation is controlled by a long, even rail or cords.

Installation of gratings for siding installation

Wooden and galvanized gratings are easy to fix and align with straight hangers.

Fastening direct hangers

On a plumb line, attach all straight hangers one above the other to the wall. Insert a lattice into them. Bend the hangers and fix the lath in the top hanger. Align the lath vertically and fix it in the bottom hanger. Fasten the lath on all hangers. Bend or break off the protruding ends of the hangers.

INSTALLATION OF THE HORIZONTAL SHELL

1. Setting up the starting strips
We find the lowest corner with the water level and, stepping back 5 cm, go around the perimeter of the house with the water level, marking the installation line of the starting strips with nails shallowly hammered into the corners. They must return to the same point from where they started. We stretch the cords between the hammered nails.

Marking the line for setting the starting strips	Marking the location of the nail strips
Installation of starting strips on cords

We attach a corner profile to each corner of the house siding and mark on the crate the places where the edges of the corner profile nail strips will be located. Departing from these marks horizontally 6 mm along the cord stretched between the nails, we install the profiles of the starting strips on the crate. Between the starting strips, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10-12 mm. The profiles of the starting strips must not rest against the nail strip of the corner profile and each of the profiles must not rest against another of the same profile. Then, during thermal elongation, they will not receive a thrust, therefore, the siding attached to them will not be bent.

You can do it differently. Do not retreat with the starting strip from the corner profile nail strip, but in this case it will be necessary to cut the corner profile nail strip so that it does not rest against the starting profile during thermal elongation and does not bend the corner profile.

Strictly follow the horizontal installation of the starting strips! Deviation from the horizon will skew ordinary siding panels. To align it, in addition to trimming the ends of the panels, you will also have to stretch siding, and this is not allowed. He then warps. Don't waste time on correct installation crates and starting strips.

Before installing external and internal corner profiles, eaves soffits should be installed or the place of their installation should be marked.

If the length of the corner profile exceeds the height of the wall to be lined, measure the required length on the profile equal to the height of the corner plus 3 mm. With the profile attached to the corner of the house and 3 mm away from the roof eaves or soffits, install fasteners at the top of the topmost nail hole on both sides of the corner. The part will hang vertically on these two nails and be 3 mm from the roof eaves, and its lower end will be 6 mm lower than the starting profile. When facing houses with protruding plinths or when the lengthening of the corner profile will be hindered by installed structures, for example, when facing verandas - floors, the profiles are cut and made shorter than the corner being lined requires. At the same time, a 3 mm gap is left between the profile and the cornice in the upper part of the corner profile, and the bottom is trimmed, it should not reach the obstacle (existing floor or plinth) of 6 mm. After checking the verticality of the corner profile, install the rest of the fasteners at the centers of the nail holes at a distance of 25 to 40 cm from each other. Don't fasten too tightly.

How to install external corner profiles

If the height of the corner of the walls is greater than the length of the vinyl corner profile, the two profiles are joined. All corner profiles at all corners of the house are joined at the same height. To do this, on the upper corner profile, a nail strip is cut off with metal scissors along with curly profile elements, leaving only two flat strips that form the corner. First, the lower corner profile is mounted, then, on top of it, the upper one. It turns out a knot protected from rain and snow. The main conditions that must be met are that the gap between the nail strips of the profiles must be at least 9 mm, and the overlap of the panels must be at least 25 mm.

Instead of a corner profile, it is possible to clad the corner of the wall with two J-profiles. However, the corner will turn out to be less airtight. Therefore, the corner lined with J-profiles must be pre-protected with a strip of rolled waterproofing.

3. Installation of internal corner profiles
It is done similarly to the installation of external corner profiles. The profile is cut to the required length, leaving 3 mm for the temperature gap between the end of the corner profile and the cornice or soffit. The bottom edge of the corner pieces drops 6 mm below the level of the bottom edge of the starting strip. Or, on the contrary, it rises by 6 mm if there is a floor or other obstacle below that prevents the thermal expansion of the profile.

Installation of internal corner profiles
Joining two corner profiles

Splicing the corner in height is overlapped in the same way as in the outer corners. When installing the corner profiles between the nail strips, you must leave a gap of at least 9 mm and ensure that the top panel overlaps the bottom panel by 25 mm. Fastening should be carried out in increments of approximately 40 mm to the center of the holes, the upper fastening should be carried out to the upper edge of the hole.
Internal corners can be worked in the same way as external corners. budget option, from two and even from one J-profile.

4. Installation of platbands around windows and doors

Installing trim around windows

Window and door blocks installed in the same plane with the wall or protruding from the wall are lined with J-profiles or platbands. Before installing the frames of windows and doors, the openings are protected with waterproofing: aprons made of roofing sheet, aluminum foil or rolled bituminous waterproofing.

Prepare two platbands for the top and bottom of the opening and two platbands for the sides. The length of all elements is made equal to the height and width of the opening, respectively, plus two heights of the vinyl profiles used. At the top profile, cuts are made on both sides equal to the height of the profiles used. In the place of the incision, the vinyl is bent down, forming "tongues". These curved pieces of vinyl will drain water from the top to the side profiles. The side profiles are inserted into the cut-out part of the upper profile so that the tongue is inside them. To do this, cut pieces of vinyl in the upper part of the side trim.

The lower casing goes inside the side profiles. To do this, tongues are also cut out in the side profiles, and in the lower “windows” equal to the height of the inserted profile. The tongues of the side profiles are bent onto the lower profile, covering the place of the incision of the lower profile with them and pressed against the protruding window. If the window is made flush with the wall, the "tongues" are folded into the lower profile or cut off.

Window and door blocks installed in the niche of the wall are lined with near-window profiles. The near-window profile is, in fact, a modernized casing, in which a shelf has been added to cover the slopes of the wall niche. Therefore, the installation of the near-window profile is carried out according to the same rules as the platband. Shelves of the near-window profile covering the slopes are cut to the depth of the niche and inserted into the pre-installed Holzplast finishing profiles.

Facing window blocks installed in a wall niche
Installation of window profile

5. Installation of the first panel
Hook the lower part of the row panel into the lock of the starting strip and, without interference, attach its upper part to the crate. Start the installation from the back facade of the house, you will gain experience on it. In addition, the extension of the panels with an overlap along the length, when installed from the rear corners of the facades, makes the joint less noticeable.

Installing the first panel

During the winter DIY vinyl siding installation the extension of the solid panel can be 18 mm. Leave room for thermal expansion. During the summer installation of siding, it is also necessary to leave gaps. In the sun, the siding will still receive some increase in length, and in winter it will become shorter and, if the gap is too large, may come out of the gutter of the adjacent profile. In other words, leave gaps in adjacent profiles of 6–9 mm. When mounting in hot weather - 6, and in cold weather - 9 mm. At temperatures below -20°C, do not install siding. Please note that the gap values ​​are for a solid siding panel. A short, cut-to-length panel will not have this length increment, and if necessary, the thermal expansion gaps can be left smaller.

Joining siding along the length

Docking of siding along the length is carried out in two ways: with an overlap and with the help of an H-profile. To overlap the siding panels, the nail and lock parts are cut so that the overlap of the panels is approximately 25 mm.

When installing the H-profile, its upper part is lowered below the soffit or cornice by 3 mm to provide a temperature gap so that when expanding, the panel has freedom of movement upwards and does not rest against the roof elements. At the bottom, the H-profile is lowered below the lower boundary of the starting profiles by 6 mm. If there is a constructive restriction at the bottom of the H-profile (protruding plinth, porch, floor, etc.) that prevents its thermal elongation downwards, then a gap of 6 mm should be left between the lower end of the profile and the restriction.

The length of the H-profile is increased by overlapping. Docking structurally resembles the joining of two corner profiles - the upper profile overlaps the lower one. The placement of the H-profile on the wall should be thought out in advance so that the vertical section of ordinary panels, visually emphasized by the H-profile, organically fits into the overall picture of the siding sheathing.

6. Installation of subsequent panels
Check the level of the horizontal installation of every third row. Having reached the installation of ordinary panels to the bottom of the window opening, you need to cut the siding mounted under the opening to the width of the window opening plus two sizes of horizontal temperature gaps (a gap of 6 mm in each direction). The cut ends of the siding will fit into the receiving trough of the window profile or casing and leave room for thermal expansion. The cut-out depth of an ordinary panel should provide a minimum (1–2 mm) vertical temperature gap between the panel and the receiving trough of the bottom trim of the opening.

Siding under and above the window, cut so that when entering the gutters of the side architraves or near-window profiles, a gap of 6 mm is obtained between the cut ends and the bottom of the gutters of the side profiles.

Between siding and vertical surfaces must leave a gap of 3 mm. Since the nail strip on the bottom panel and the lock on the panel above the window will be cut off when marking the siding, the hooks on the siding must be punched and bent. Install the finishing profile in the lower and upper near-window profile. When installing, insert the siding panel into the finishing profile and hook it to it. If platbands are used as window cladding, hook the siding panel directly to them. Finishing profiles in this case are not needed.

Depending on the depth of siding trimming, install the finishing profile through leveling pads from siding scraps or without them.

The fastening of an ordinary panel to the lower and upper trim of the window is provided by “hooks”, which must be made with a punch (punch) on the panel cutout. Siding trimming can be done to different depths, depending on the height of the window on the facade, so when using near-window profiles for planar alignment siding, a finishing profile is additionally installed in the lower trim of the opening.

7. Installation of siding under the roof eaves
The final siding panel under the roof eaves is made from an ordinary siding panel. To do this, a finishing or J-profile or complexes of J and finishing profiles, or internal corner and finishing profiles are mounted under the roof eaves.

Installing under-roof siding

Install under the eaves a system of J and finishing profiles, or only J or a finishing profile with leveling pads. If the cornice will be sheathed with spotlights, then install the system from the profile inner corner and finish profile. After marking and trimming the siding panel, finish the sheathing.

Installation of siding under the eaves sheathed with spotlights

Measure the distance m (from the lock to the bottom of the gutter of the under-eaves profile minus 3 mm), transfer this distance to a solid siding panel. Cut it to length. Make hooks on it and install the siding panel, snapping the lower lock into place.
In several places along the length of the siding, the distance from the lock of the penultimate ordinary panel to the bottom of the gutter of the final profile is measured. A vertical temperature allowance of 1–2 mm is subtracted from the obtained dimensions. The results of measurements and calculations are transferred to the whole panel, from which the upper locking part is cut off. On the top of the cut siding, “hooks” are punched at an approximate interval of 20 cm and are bent to the front side. The siding cut in height with hooks is inserted into the lock of the penultimate panel and inserted into the final profiles with the upper part. Moving up, the siding snaps into locks.

8.Installation siding to the pediment
Roof gables are sheathed along the perimeter with a J-profile or an internal corner profile. Their fastening is carried out according to the rules for mounting vertical elements, i.e., the upper fasteners are installed to the upper edge of the nail hole, the rest - in the middle of the holes.

Gable siding installation

The installation of ordinary siding panels is done in the same way as on the walls, with trimming the edges of the receiving profiles entering the gutter. Remember to leave a gap between the siding and the bottom of the gutter equal to 6 mm (6 mm in summer and 9 mm in winter). The topmost panel of the siding is attached to the center of the top with a stainless steel nail or self-tapping screw through the vinyl. This is the only place where fastening is allowed.