Plasterboard ceiling installation - useful recommendations. Suspended plasterboard ceiling Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling installation

September 28, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Today I will talk about how to make a suspended plasterboard ceiling. In my opinion, this is one of the pretty simple ways its arrangement. The instructions below are understandable even for the most inexperienced novice builders.

Using it, you can do all the work yourself, saving on the wages of builders. And since the price of the material itself is not so high, the cost of the entire project will be quite affordable.

Ceiling device and necessary materials

Structurally, the plasterboard ceiling is a frame that is attached to the walls and floor of the room, and then sheathed with plasterboard, after which it is made decorative materials. The frame is single-level and multi-level.

If you have not made suspended plasterboard ceilings with your own hands before, I advise you to stop at the first option. It is about him that will be discussed further.

To construct a single-level frame, galvanized ceiling profiles PP (CD) 60 by 27 mm and PPN (UD) 28 by 27 mm are required. To connect them together, self-tapping screws for metal and single-level connectors (“crabs”) are used.

I will hang profiles from the ceiling on U-shaped brackets (“pawns”). You can replace them with spring suspensions. Brackets and profiles to the walls will be fastened with screws with plastic dowels.

I recommend using drywall with a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 1200 mm and a length of 2500 mm. If you are going to sheathe a room with increased level humidity (, bathroom, toilet), you need to buy moisture-resistant GKL green. In all other cases, standard brown (grayish) will do.

If you follow the tips listed above, you will achieve the optimal combination of strength characteristics and weight. The normal value is 13 kg per 1 square meter ceiling.

As for the tools, you will need:

perforator for making holes in the floor slab and enclosing walls;
screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws;
metal shears for cutting profiles;
laser or water level for marking;
drywall plastering tools.

The very process of installing GKL on the ceiling consists of only three stages:

Beginning of work

So, before you make a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you need to properly prepare the ceiling and develop a project for the future structure.

Surface preparation

I want to say right away that the suspended ceiling perfectly hides all the defects of the floor slab. Therefore, the preparation work will not be voluminous. Their main task is to ensure reliable fastening of the frame on the floor slab and walls.

To do this, I usually perform the following steps:

I'm dismantling the old finish. It is necessary to tear off old wallpaper or paint to a layer of putty or plaster. By the way, if the paint on the ceiling does not fall off, but is held very firmly, it is also not necessary to scrape off all of it. It is enough to remove damaged areas that may crumble.

I do floor slab repairs. Before installing the GKL, it is necessary to repair the defects of the reinforced concrete ceiling slab. To do this, using the repair cement mortar or polyurethane polyurethane foam Large gaps and cracks need to be patched.

If you find areas with exposed reinforcement, then before sealing it is necessary to clean the metal from rust, coat it with a rust converter, and after the latter has dried, seal the cracks.

Ground surface. This operation allows you to dedust the ceiling slab. If you are going to make a ceiling in a room with high humidity, it is better to take a primer with antiseptic properties, designed to work on a mineral base.

I mount engineering Communication. Before installing the ceiling, you need to take care of the installation of engineering systems. Usually it is about ventilation ducts and electrical cables. The first I recommend doing from plastic pipes. And put the wires in protective corrugations, which will save you from fire in case of a short circuit.

It is not necessary to bring the ceiling to the ideal and align it strictly according to the level. After all, this will be done with the help of a frame and drywall sheets.

Project development

Now let's take up the creation of a project for the future ceiling. Again, if you are going to design a complex multi-level ceiling, I recommend using specialized computer applications for this. They also calculate the amount of materials needed.

In the case I am describing, the ceiling will be single-level, without complex zigzags and steps. Therefore, you can calculate it yourself. I will give an approximate calculation scheme for a room measuring 3 by 6 meters:

First you need to determine the perimeter of the room - ours will be equal to 3 + 3 + 6 + 6 = 18 meters. That is how much the UD ceiling guide profile will need. Naturally, take with a small margin, just in case something goes wrong. In addition, they will need to be nested in each other, which also needs to be taken into account.
When measuring a room, measure all walls. There are times when opposite walls are not equal to each other. Then take the higher value.
Next, you need to calculate the number of carrier ceiling profile CD. In my case, it will be mounted at a distance of 50 cm from each other across the room. Accordingly, 600 / 50 cm = 12 pieces. This is for the case when the GKL will be attached along the room. The length of the sheet is 2500 mm, that is, its edges will fall just on the bearing parts.
If you are laying plasterboard sheets across the room, the distance between the carrier profiles should be 60 cm (since the sheet is 120 cm wide). Then 600 / 60 = 10 pieces.
At the next stage, the number of U-shaped suspensions is calculated. They are attached to the carrier profile at a distance of 60 cm. The length of the profile in our case is 3 meters. That is 300 / 60 = 5 suspensions. We have 12 profiles. So 12 * 5 = 60 suspensions.
Remember that the first and last hangers must be fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, and the rest - at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
You also need to calculate the number of crabs. They will need 24, that is, twice as many as carrier CD profiles.

The number of screws and dowels can also be counted, but I do not advise you to stop there. Buy a box of self-tapping screws for fastening profiles, for screwing drywall and screws with dowels for mounting the frame on the walls.

Step-by-step guide for installing drywall

Sequencing:

I'm doing markup. First you need to arm yourself with a laser or bubble level and beat off a line on the enclosing walls of the room, which will be located strictly horizontally. In my case, the floor slab has ledges-ribs, so I drew the line a little lower. You can draw a straight line or mark it with a dotted line as shown in the photo below.

These marks will later serve as a guide for fixing the UD ceiling guide profiles.

Next, I take an ordinary metal drill with a diameter of 7 mm and drill holes in the guide parts, which will later be needed to install screws with dowels.

The holes must be drilled in the profile at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The extreme ones should be 10 cm away from the profile cut. I make holes in the profile in advance so that later I don’t drill the part with a drill with a victorious tip (which is intended for concrete walls).

I mount guide profiles on the walls. To do this, I apply the profile to the drawings (lines) made on the wall, after which, after drilled holes using a puncher I drill holes in the walls. The drill diameter in this case is 6 mm.

After that, I insert a dowel-nail into the hole made in the wall (naturally, with the attached profile). He is plastic part with a thickening at the end, where a metal core is driven in.

Dowel size 6 x 50 mm. The dowel is driven in simply with a hammer. If you make some mistake during installation, you can then unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

At the corners of the room, the guide profiles are inserted into each other, after which the junction is strengthened with a small self-tapping screw. If you need to splice two elements (if its length is not enough for the whole room), you just need to put two guides one into the other. In this place, it is necessary to drill a through hole and drive another dowel-nail into the wall.

I install load-bearing galvanized profiles. As I already mentioned, in my case, the plasterboard will be laid along the room. Accordingly, the distance between adjacent parts will be 50 cm. You need to take a tape measure and mark the walls, placing risks at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then you need to adjust the profiles to the width of the room (if they are already). To do this, I recommend measuring the profile of the desired length (5 mm less than the distance between the walls), after which make cuts along the side shelves with scissors, and then, bending and unbending the part, simply break it off. Then the upper ones need to be cut a little diagonally, as shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is such that the length of one profile piece is not enough, it is necessary to use two products, splicing them together with a connector, which can be bought at the store. If this is not at hand, you can make it yourself. The scheme is this:

I cut off a piece 20 cm long from the CD part (maybe a little less);
after that I cut off two short shelves, which are located along the sides of the profile;
then this part is bent exactly in the middle along the central groove so that the profile takes the form of the Latin letter W. This is clearly seen in the illustration below.

Then you need to insert the trimmed profiles into the guides. To do this, place one end, then take the part diagonally and insert it into the opposite guide. In this case, the products must be positioned so that their center (it is visible on the profile) is exactly aligned with the mark on the wall.

If you have a distance between the last bearing bar or wall of the room more than 50 cm, you need to divide the remaining distance in half and install an additional profile in this place for strength. But keep in mind that CD-parts must be located so that the edges of the GCR must be placed on them.

After you have placed all the profiles on the rails according to the markup, they must be fixed with self-tapping screws. I use one self-tapping screw per profile on each side. Self-tapping screws can be screwed with a screwdriver.

I install transverse elements of load-bearing profiles. Here, too, I will start with the markup. Considering that I will put the drywall sheet along, I need to measure a distance of 1200 mm from one of the walls and make the corresponding risks on each carrier profile. To do this, it is better to use a marker, since the pencil draws poorly and is poorly visible on galvanization. You get this markup.

To connect two frame elements at the same level, a special part is needed, which is called a “crab” in the common people. It looks like this. It has special latches, thanks to which it is securely fixed on the CD profile.

These crabs must be inserted into already installed parts, guided by pre-applied marks. To avoid longitudinal sliding of the bracket, it is desirable to fix it on the carrier with a self-tapping screw. For this, the parts have the necessary holes. One screw is enough.

Then crossbars are attached to the crabs. To do this, you need to cut the required number of parts (their length must correspond to the distance between the carrier profiles), and then fix them with two self-tapping screws. The end crossbars are inserted into the carrier profile mounted on the wall. The result will be the design shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is more than 2.6 meters, you will need as many rows of transverse elements as there will be GKL junctions. In my case it is two rows. Everything will depend on the perimeter of the room. But the principle of installation will remain the same.

It happens that you incorrectly calculated the number of crabs, and there were not enough brackets for installation. Then you can fix a few details without them. To do this, you need to correctly cut the guide profile:

first you need to measure the profile, the length of which will be 40 mm longer than the distance between the guides;
then you should cut off the side shelves in such a way that tongues form from the wide edge (their edges must also be cut at a slight angle).

Then this part can simply be screwed onto the CD profile using one self-tapping screw. You need to orient yourself along the central stiffener. In principle, using this advice, you can completely abandon the use of crabs. This will not affect strength in any way.

I fix the frame on the concrete floor. Without this, the drywall construction will not hold securely, since its length is large enough. For fixing, U-shaped perforated suspensions are used, which the craftsmen call "pawns".

Suspensions should hold long bearing profiles at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Therefore, you must first make marks on the details with a marker at the same distance from each other.

Above the marked places, you need to make two holes to fix the bracket. In order not to be mistaken, you can attach a bracket, and then make holes. As a result, it will turn out like this:

To fix the suspensions themselves, you can use dowel-nails or anchor bolts. In my case, I use screws that I screw into dry birch chopsticks. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the floor slab in this room is not enough to reliably drive the dowels there. But this is only a feature of this particular installation.

Then I screw on the hangers. In my case, the distance between the ceiling and the frame is such that I have to use two suspensions, placing them on both sides of the carrier profile. But, as a rule, one suspension will do. Then you just need to bend its petals at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the floor slab.

Mounting is done as shown in the photo:

Remember that you first need to fix all the hangers on the ceiling without attaching them to the carrier profiles. Before screwing the brackets directly to the frame, the latter must be leveled relative to the horizontal, since now the profiles sag a little under their weight.

Now I’ll tell you how you can easily align this entire structure:

First, you should raise the entire frame in the center so that it is obviously above the required level, and fix it in this state to the hangers using self-tapping screws in two or three places. This will be a temporary mount, which will then be removed.
Then you need to fasten the cord. A screw with a string tied to it is screwed into the guide near one wall, then it is pulled through the entire room and screwed to the screw on the opposite guide profile. If you raised the ceiling (as described in the previous paragraph), then a small gap forms between the rope and the frame.

If you do not want to raise the ceiling, you can fasten the thread from the top of the guide profile. Then the ceiling will sag and still form a gap needed for alignment.
After all the threads are stretched, you can align the profile with a guideline and fix it on the hangers. Be sure to leave a gap of about 1 mm so that the already aligned parts do not violate the plane formed by the stretched ropes.

This process of leveling the surface takes up most of the time required to install the ceiling. But it must be carried out carefully and without haste, otherwise you will get a curved surface.

One more moment. If after mounting you still have protruding parts of the brackets, you just need to bend them. Cutting is optional.

I am insulating the surface of the ceiling. You can also omit this step if ceiling insulation is not required. But in my case, the floor slab is too thin and requires thermal insulation. In addition, the material used will play the role of a soundproof layer.

As thermal insulation, I will use foam foil 4 mm thick. An additional reflective heat shield will be effective enough so that thermal energy is not wasted through the ceiling.

The difficulty in my case is to fix the penofol, since I will not attach it to the profile with a stapler or screws. The way out for me was shoe glue.

You can, by the way, replace it with liquid nails. Well, one more Alternative option- Use of double-sided tape.

I glued the lower surface of the profiles with glue, and then those sections of the foam that will be glued. After that, he completed the installation of the heater. Remember that you need to glue it so that the foil side is located towards the living room. All this is clearly visible in the photo.

I fix sheets of drywall on the profile. It is better to do this with a partner who will hold the sheets during fastening. But I will tell you further how you can still manage only on your own.

In this case, for work, you will need two props in the form of the letters T (well, or mops). Their length should be such that, in a vertical position, they practically rest against the surface of the ceiling frame (even without taking into account the thickness of the gypsum board). support the simplest design shown in the photo.

How to use this mop:

First you need to install the mop against the wall so that a gap is formed between it and the ceiling, where you can place drywall sheet by thickness.
Then you need to take a sheet of drywall and lean it on this support.
After that, you should grab the sheet by the opposite (bottom) edge and lift it to the ceiling. In this case, the opposite edge should stick tightly against the wall and be fixed between the frame and the short part of the mop.
Raising it from the floor, you need to slip a second mop under the bottom and bring the sheet to the level of the frame made earlier.
As a result, the drywall sheet will be pressed against the ceiling in the way shown in the photo.

Then you can take a stepladder and fix the sheet on the frame using drywall screws. They need to be screwed along the edge of the sheet and into those areas where profiles pass under the sheet. The distance between adjacent screws should be 30-40 cm.

When screwing in the self-tapping screw, be sure to hold the GKL with your hand nearby. Because when screwing a self-tapping screw into the profile, the sheet may slightly move away from the surface. There is a danger that it will collapse from your supports.

The head of the screw after screwing should not rise above the level of the sheet. It needs to be sunk a little deeper, but at the same time not completely destroy the sheet of cardboard that protects the gypsum from destruction.

Similarly, the installation of all other sheets is performed.

I am finishing the ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to putty the places where the heads of the screws are visible, as well as the junction of drywall sheets (a fiberglass mesh is usually laid along the seams - sickle).

And the rest of the design is up to you. The most common option is puttying and subsequent painting.

Summary

I hope the information provided is enough so that, based on it, you can independently design a plasterboard ceiling. Additional Tips are in the video in this article.

You can leave your opinion about the information provided in the comments.

If you want your room to have a beautiful and perfectly flat ceiling, try making it yourself. Show your imagination!

For the implementation of the most complex and unusual ideas, drywall is perfect.

It can be used to collect Various types ceiling coverings, among which the following designs are especially popular:

double ( perfect solution to obtain soundproofing properties);
bunk (ideal for spacious rooms with high walls);
curly (allows you to give the interior dynamics, is used for additional decoration of rooms);
tension (alternative for those who do not want to work with joints).

Drywall belongs to the category of universal building materials, widely used for finishing horizontal, vertical and inclined surfaces.

The design of a gypsum board (gypsum board) includes two layers of thick cardboard, between which there is a core. The main ingredient of the internal filler is a hardened gypsum mortar, which may include various modification additives.

Gypsum board, unlike other similar building materials, has moisture-resistant qualities, relatively low weight and a variety of sizes, which makes it ideal for drafting and finishing ceilings.

With the help of GKL, you can design both a classic single-level ceiling with lighting, and install a two-level ceiling with hidden light elements.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall

Proper work with drywall is carried out in strict accordance with the prescribed technical standards, requirements and safety rules.

Specialists in the field overhaul and construction distinguish the following positive traits material:

Versatility of application. Suitable for finishing heated and unheated premises for various purposes (living rooms, bathrooms, household and garage outbuildings, loggias)
The soundproofing effect, combined with good air exchange and minimal heat loss - gypsum ceilings are popular in private houses and country cottages with roofs made of corrugated board or metal tiles.
Ease of embedding spot and main lighting fixtures. Above the slabs of plasterboard can be imperceptibly held electric wires, telephone lines, ventilation systems and other engineering communications, without harming the aesthetic component of the issue.

To the difficulties of conducting installation work the need for high-quality processing of butt joints. Finishing the ceiling with drywall requires the active participation of at least two people. When assembling the rack box for the ceiling, errors in the calculations are unacceptable, even small flaws can lead to cracks and deformation of the cardboard sheets.

Necessary materials for the assembly of plasterboard ceiling structures

To create a false ceiling from GKL you will need:

drywall sheets (their type is selected taking into account the individual terms of reference and format of the room);
metal profile (with its help a frame skeleton is created for the future structure);
anchor-wedge ceiling (allows you to quickly and securely fasten a metal profile to the ceiling);
construction knife with replaceable blades (for cutting plasterboard into the necessary fragments);
cordless screwdriver and self-tapping screws with a press washer (for attaching drywall to the profile);
perforator (for creating holes for anchor bolts);
expansion dowels;
special tape for sealing GKL;
construction narrow spatula;
putty for subsequent finishing.

Preliminary calculations, marking and surface preparation

Before you start sheathing the ceiling, you need to determine the lowest draft zone ceiling in room. From it it is necessary to note the distance in height at which it is planned to mount the future structure. This is required so that the frame on the plasterboard ceiling is installed correctly.

According to accepted standards, the gap between the ceiling base and the plasterboard suspended ceiling must be at least 5 cm. In cases where the inter-ceiling space acts as a kind of masking box engineering networks and large lighting elements, level decorative ceiling must be lowered by at least another 15-20 cm.

From the received point it is necessary to draw a smooth continuous line, thus capturing the entire perimeter room space. The easiest way to do this is with a building level (a laser is suitable for a large area, a bubble level is enough for small rooms).

The next step is the application of construction markings in places where it is planned to install a profile skeleton. The distance between the longitudinal profiles must be a multiple of the width of the drywall sheet. Standard Width material is 120 cm, so ideal option the installation of a metal structure with a distance of 40 cm is considered: two guides are fixed at the edges, one in the middle. The attachment points of the suspensions must also be noted in advance. Their interval step should be from 40 to 50 cm.

An example of markup is shown in the photo.

At the final stage of the preparatory work, it is required to mark each drywall sheet in accordance with the approved plan for their installation. For additional markup details, see the video at the bottom of this page.

Creation of a reliable metal frame for a plasterboard ceiling

The manufacture of the ceiling begins with the installation of the supporting base. The guide to creating a metal frame includes 5 main points.

Holes are drilled on the prepared line at the points indicated earlier. A UD-profile is brought to the draft ceiling, the fixation of which is carried out with the help of dowels-nails.

Hangers are being installed. Their main purpose is to fasten the main longitudinal metal profiles. For transverse structural elements, they are not needed. Suspensions are attached with ordinary dowel-nails. If voids are found, it is rational to use a ceiling wedge anchor.

The next step is to install the CD type profile. Before hanging them, it is necessary to determine a flat horizontal plane that runs over the entire area of \u200b\u200bwork. To do this, just pull the nylon thread.

The longitudinal CD profile is initially fixed between opposite UD parts (specifically, it is inserted into grooves specially designed for this purpose). Then it is sequentially mounted in prepared suspensions. The free ends of the suspensions are bent vertically down, completely wrap around the profile and are fixed with small universal screws.

The final stage of creating the frame involves the installation of transverse profiles, which are recommended to be placed at a distance of half a meter from each other.

The finished frame must be gently pulled down on each side. This technology allows you to align all the suspensions along the same length and helps to identify possible irregularities in the horizontal plane of the frame.

Basic principles of working with drywall

Before starting the installation of a plasterboard false ceiling, it is necessary to think over and organize the space above the ceiling. All electrical wires and cables are placed in flexible corrugated tubes and fixed with metal clips to the rough finish. On the GKL, the zones for the location of the lamps are indicated, the corresponding holes are cut out along the contour of the outlined figure.

Step-by-step instructions on how to fix drywall are as follows:

Cut sheets for ease of attachment.
Seal the metal profile with tape to provide additional shock absorption and sound insulation.
Attach the sheets along the edges to the frame. The distance from the edge to the fastening point should be about 2 cm. The step between the screws should be 10-15 cm.
According to the installation rules, panels are first attached, closely adjacent to the corner sections of the walls. Next, you need to fix the remaining sheets around the entire perimeter of the room. The central elements of the ceiling structure are attached last.

After the completion of the installation work, the finished suspended ceiling must “settle” for 48 hours. Next, you can start finishing. A primer is used to process the joints, after which the assembly seams need to be puttied (for these purposes, it is perfect gypsum mixture trademark "Knauf").

To give additional rigidity and strength to the finish, it is recommended to use a reinforcing mesh.

To do this, it is necessary to apply 60% putty, drown the mesh with the mixture that has not yet hardened, smooth out the irregularities with a spatula, fill the remaining volume of the docking recess with a second layer of putty. The frame on the plasterboard ceiling is ready.

How to find a profile under drywall?

In order not to miss and hit the fasteners exactly in metal carcass, we recommend using powerful neodymium magnets.

With it, you can easily find a rack, guide profile or auxiliary metal jumpers under the plasterboard surface. The search for a profile ceiling frame is necessary in order to hang lighting or other decorative elements of the interior.

With an error in the calculations, the entire structure will sooner or later collapse to the floor, so it is very important to determine the correct point for fasteners. For this you need:

Choose an approximate place for future fastening.
Attach a thin sheet of paper or cloth to the ceiling so that the magnet does not scratch the surface.
Place a neodymium magnet on the fabric and slowly move it along the intended search area.
When a magnetic reaction occurs, mark the place with a pencil.

We draw your attention to the fact that for the most effective search for a metal profile, it is better to use a large magnet. It is able to cover a larger radius at a time, which means that metal detection will not take much time.

Video tutorial on the topic: "How to make a level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands"

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with useful video material that will allow you to visually assess the upcoming scope of work, as well as deal with all the nuances of the installation of single-level and multi-level ceilings.

The installation of a drywall ceiling requires knowledge of the material from A to Z. After studying the installation information, feel free to proceed with the installation of the GKL with your own hands. Conduct competent device constructions without special skills is possible, the main thing is to know how it is done. The technology of lathing and laying sheets for single-level and multi-level systems is slightly different, but we will consider all possible options.

Suspended ceiling, like other cladding, requires the installation of a frame. Unlike wall decoration, metal profiles and direct suspensions are used for the ceiling, which makes it possible to securely fix the system. Read more about installation below. The information is supplemented by a video that clearly shows the installation.

What material to choose?

The drywall construction on the ceiling looks presentable if it is installed correctly. But long before starting work, you should decide on the class of material that will be used as a cladding. If the information below does not seem enough, then you can study the video, which talks in detail about the types of drywall. Now let's say a few words about each of them:

GKL. These are standard sheets. Gypsum is sheathed with gray cardboard. For residential ceilings, lightweight material with a thickness of 9.5 mm is used.
GVL. These are the so-called gypsum-fiber sheets. The material is not covered with cardboard, which is different from the one described above. It is characterized by resistance to fire and hardness.
GVLV is GVL, which is used in conditions of high humidity.

GKLO. Fire-resistant material modified with GKL. Such variants of sheets are used in production.
GKLV. Waterproof grade drywall. This material is different outward signs– green cardboard is used for cladding.
GKLV is an improved variation of GKLV, which, in addition to the advantages of GKLV material, is characterized by fire resistance.

In the conditions of home assembly of the ceiling, all types of material are used, except for GKLO and GKLVO. For bathrooms and kitchen area It is preferable to use GKLV due to resistance to moisture. The installation scheme of drywall in these rooms is discussed in many videos.

What is needed for the crate

Frame installation technology involves the use metal profiles. The best options are cold-formed galvanized products with a thickness of at least 0.55 mm. If you use thinner profiles, then the plasterboard structures on the ceiling will certainly deform. More often, parts of 3 or 4 m in length are used to equip the frame. If necessary, the crate can be created with your own hands from elements of other sizes.

Note! To facilitate installation, the manufacturer provides holes for dowels on the profileUD. If it happened that the product was purchased without them, it will have to be drilled in the right places.

So what elements, besides profiles, are used to equip the frame?

Straight or U-shaped suspension. Purpose of the device - fastening steel profiles to the cover. If the length of the product is not enough, then you can resort to installing a spring suspension with a hook.
Crab. It is a one-level connector. It is used for the device of crosswise fastening of steel elements in one horizontal plane at an angle of 90 degrees.
Corner connector. It is used to fix one part.
Double-layer fastener. Used to connect profiles on different tiers. Do-it-yourself fastening with the help of such a part is carried out crosswise. In this case, the fixing of parts occurs strictly one under the other.

These are the most common elements for the construction of the crate. Self-tapping screws and dowels are used to fasten parts. How to make a crate for drywall according to a simplified scheme, see the video.

Marking the ceiling and preparing the rough base

After the correct calculation of materials, they begin to prepare the floor. Removal of residues for a secure installation old plaster from the ceiling. The base does not need to be treated with a primer or putty, but it is recommended to use antiseptics.

The next step is markup. There are several rules and recommendations that will affect the further course of installation. The first step is to determine the horizontal relative to which the installation is carried out. To do this, find the lowest corner in the room, retreat from the draft base 40-50 mm and put a mark in this place. From this point, the dance begins.

Next, do the beating on the walls with your own hands using a paint cord. Alternatively, you can use a thread dipped in blue. Strictly monitor the level during the markup. Provides high accuracy laser level, but in the absence of tool fit and water.

When working, consider the following nuances:

After passing along the perimeter of the room, the line should return to the starting point. Any offsets are not allowed.
When applying a beating on adjacent walls, place the level both on the plane itself and in the corners.
The markings from the walls are transferred to the ceiling, where the fixation points of straight, spring or U-shaped suspensions are marked.

At the end of the work, there should be a mesh in front of the eye. The dimensions of the squares depend on the selected step, but more often it is 60 x 60. Closer to the walls, the cells have other dimensions - half. You need to maintain symmetry on the opposite side. For marking the ceiling for installing GKL, see the video at the end of the information block.

Hanging system installation

After installing the crate, proceed to the installation of the GKL. The installation of suspended ceilings is done according to a strict scheme. The drywall sheets themselves are fixed with their own hands perpendicular to the frame guide profiles. They are joined exactly in the middle of the profiles. This is done to make the system more reliable.

GKL ceiling frame

Ceiling structure diagram

Important! GKL fastening technology provides for the work of several installers. One person can damage a large sheet.

The installation scheme is not complicated. The following steps are taken:

The amount of materials is calculated. For bunk structures and complex-shaped ceilings, sheets are taken with a margin of about 20%, and for simple ones, 10% is enough.
GKL are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The screws are driven into the sheets so that their caps "drown" by about 2-3 mm.
The distance between the screws is 300 mm. From the corners of drywall, the indentation is 10 times less.
Screws in the GKL are screwed with their own hands at a distance of about 1 cm from the edge of each sheet. In this case, we must not forget about the step between the screws.

Important! Screwing closer to the edge is fraught with chipping of the material. If there is an oversight, screw another screw through 30-40 mm from the place where the previous one was screwed in.

The installation scheme provides for some nuances. First, a narrow profile is mounted in the corners of the premises. This makes fixing the drywall sheet problematic. Secondly, the depth of screwing in of all screws should be approximately equal. This will allow you to carry out high-quality plastering of the plane with your own hands. suspension system must be made from the same manufacturer. Otherwise, there may be problems with the docking of the GCR.

Carrying out painting work

Finishing is the final step. A common way of facing drywall with your own hands is painting. But before that, preparatory work. First, get the plaster. It is better to choose a building material of a plastic type. Then apply it with a spatula to the following places:

GKL docking points;
screw points;
on a sickle, which is used to reinforce the ceiling.

After that, the entire ceiling is already being processed. When puttying multi-level ceilings, pay attention to transitions to other levels and corner areas. The final touch is the application of a leveling layer, after which it is worth walking with sandpaper. Sealing tape is used at the junction points of drywall with walls.

Only after that a layer of primer is applied to the putty. It is recommended to repeat the priming procedure to consolidate the result. Next, let the ceiling dry. After that, you can already start painting. Preference should be given to water-based or acrylic. Such compounds are not released into the room harmful substances and are chemical resistant.

Note that the water emulsion does not prevent the filtration of water vapor in wooden houses. Some experts consider acrylic paints to be the best. They have the advantages of water-based, but in addition to this, the coating can be washed.

Summarizing

The scheme for producing a suspended ceiling structure, which is described above, will allow you to create an even and neat ceiling covering. But the desired result can be achieved only if the technology is followed. In another situation, there is a risk of poor-quality installation. Installation details are discussed in the video after the article.

To bring to life their most daring ceiling design projects, designers use drywall. With the technology of mounting plasterboard ceilings, it is necessary to create a central flat surface that allows you to work with complex decor elements. At the same time the design differs in the special durability and reliability.

The simplest installation of a false ceiling is to install a ceiling with one or two levels. The technique of creating a drywall ceiling from two levels will be discussed a little later. But to get acquainted with some of the intricacies of the installation single-level ceiling from drywall can be in the material "Gypsum board ceiling with your own hands in the kitchen: installation features."

Ceiling fixing markings

According to the installation technology of a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the first thing to do is to mark:

So, on the walls are applied perfectly even horizontal line, which will become a feature of the ceiling level. To do this, use a long building level or water level (spirit level). The most acceptable level length is one and a half to two meters, while it should have four strips in the viewing window - two on one side of the air bubble and two on the other side. Subject to these requirements for the tool, marking accuracy is guaranteed.
When the line is drawn, its end must converge with its beginning, while its slightest shift is not allowed. When marking in the corner of the room using the building level, you should follow the rules for working with the hydraulic level. To do this, when marks are applied to adjacent walls, the level should be placed both on the surface of these walls and in the corners of the spacer.

Scheme of technology for the installation of plasterboard ceiling

After completing the creation of the horizontal level of the ceiling, the next step is to mark the ceiling with the attachment points for direct suspensions. As a result, a grid with cell dimensions of 600 x 600 mm should appear on the ceiling. Very often, at the edges of the room, the dimensions of the cell do not correspond to the specified 600 mm, in which case their dimensions should be reduced and made symmetrical with respect to opposite sides.

Installation of profiles for fixing drywall

Installation of the guide profile

The next step in the installation of a plasterboard ceiling involves sheathing the entire perimeter of the room with guide profiles (PN). The size of such a profile is 2.7 x 2.7 cm. Of course, this process has its own characteristics:

Installation of U-shaped suspensions

Installation of U-shaped suspensions is carried out according to pre-planned markings on the draft ceiling. In this case, the interval should be within 70-100 cm, and the distance from the wall to the suspension on opposite walls should be the same.

To fix the hangers, do not use dowel-nails for vertical fasteners. It is recommended to use plastic dowels and screws. If the draft ceiling is made of concrete, optimal solution will be metal dowels designed for heavy structures. However, you should be careful, because the frame dowels are also metal, but they are completely unsuitable for this purpose.

At the joints of the guide profiles, U-shaped hangers should be installed on both sides of the joint.

Elements for fastening the frame of a plasterboard structure to the ceiling

At the end of the process of fixing U-shaped profiles, the next step is the installation of ceiling profiles (PP). Their parameters are - 5.6 x 2.7 cm, sometimes there are sizes of 6 x 2.7 cm.

Installation of ceiling profiles

The first thing to do when installing ceiling profiles is to fix the long profiles on the ceiling from wall to wall. Then install short transverse profiles between them. In this case, cross connections are made using a special fastener.

PP is mounted from the wall and inserted into the guide profiles. Then they indicate the horizontal level of the location of the ceiling profiles (a level is used for this purpose), and then it is fixed with a double-sided connection to the U-shaped suspension. At the same time, metal-to-metal screws (self-tapping screws) are used for such a connection.

To make the job easier, you can use the following tips:

Most rational decision, will be the installation of the longest profiles parallel to the wall with the window. In this way, attention can be diverted from minor defects at the junction of drywall sheets, which will be attached in the direction of natural light from the window.

Fastening drywall to the frame

A solid sheet of drywall (gypsum plasterboard) is attached transversely to long guide profiles.

Sheets are connected in the central part of the profile. For high-quality installation of GKL on a profile, it is recommended to work with a partner. To attach the sheets to the profile, self-tapping screws are used, while the screw is slightly “recessed” in the drywall sheet, about two or three millimeters. The distance between the screws should be approximately 250-300 mm, and from the corners of the drywall - 30-40 mm.

In addition, the screws should be fastened no closer than 10-15mm from the edge of the drywall. When screwing in self-tapping screws, you should be extremely careful not to chip the edge of the sheet. However, if such a nuisance nevertheless happened, it is necessary to remove the screw and screw in a new one at a distance of 30-40 mm from the chipped point.

When attaching sheets of drywall to the ceiling, you must remember the following nuances:

When installing drywall sheets, remember that there is a narrow profile at the corners of the room, and this can complicate the installation process;
For a beautiful aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard ceiling, you should adhere to simple rule: fewer faces - prettier view;
In the process of screwing in self-tapping screws, you should adhere to the same depth of "drowning" at all attachment points. Such accuracy will come in handy later, at the stage of painting work, it will allow them to be carried out with the highest quality;
In order to avoid unpleasant situations, such as height differences at the joints of sheets, the best option would be to use products from one manufacturer (for example, Knauf).

Gypsum board cutting technology and painting work

To carry out the marking of drywall sheets, an aluminum rule is used, which should be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants. If such a tool is not available, you can use a flat rail.

Marking is made on the sheet, drywall will be cut off on it.
Next, an incision is made with a depth of 2-4 mm according to the rule (or rail). To do this, use a sharp construction knife so that the line is even and not interrupted.
After that, a sheet of drywall is placed on the edge of the table and, with the help of a careful but sure movement, breaks. With a properly made incision, the drywall sheet will break evenly.

Drywall Cutting Instructions

There will be cardboard left on the back of the sheet, it can be cut off with construction knife.
You can use a planer or #4 or #6 sandpaper to smooth the cut edge.

To paint a plasterboard ceiling (to get acquainted with the rules for painting work, read: How to paint the ceiling in the kitchen: paint selection and work procedure), you must use a paint bandage and paint mesh, which are used to glue the joints of drywall with the wall and joints.

The process of marking the ceiling to accommodate spotlights should be performed before the last paint application. This procedure will help prevent smudges and help keep the marks for the light points visible. The final coat of paint is applied in the direction of the strongest light stream.

Technology: for painting a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the best solution would be to use a roller, this will save paint and allow you to create a uniform coating

The above rules for the technology of creating suspended plasterboard ceilings will allow you to carry out high-quality installation on your own. However, this can only be achieved if all instructions and recommendations are strictly followed. Otherwise, you risk getting a curve and an unreliable ceiling at the exit, which will need to be redone.

Do you want to make a plasterboard false ceiling on your own, but doubt that you can do the job? Then this article is exactly what you need. In it, all the works are described in great detail so that anyone can understand them. You just need to repeat the steps, and you will achieve excellent results.

Workflow steps

To carry out the installation of a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you need to know and strictly follow a certain sequence of actions.

The technology has been developed over the years and includes the following steps:

Preparation of materials and tools;
Marking the position of the guides and their fastening;
Frame construction;
Fastening drywall to the frame;
Sealing joints on the surface;
Plastering and painting the ceiling.

Stage 1 - preparation of materials and tools

This is the preparatory part of the work, on which you must collect everything you need. Even before purchasing everything you need, you must measure the room in which the work will be carried out, this will allow you to accurately calculate required amount materials.

To begin with, let's figure out what elements a suspended plasterboard ceiling is assembled from.

Material	Selection Guide
Drywall	The most commonly used ceiling version is 9.5 mm. But you can also use wall elements with a thickness of 12 mm, their price is higher, but the surface will be more reliable. For rooms with high humidity, it is better to use a moisture-resistant version, it is easy to distinguish it by the green color of the protective paper layer. The required amount is calculated according to the surface area to be treated.
Guide elements	The number of the guide profile is calculated based on the length of the walls around the perimeter of the room. The elements are 3 meters long. Choose options made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm
Main profile	The number of load-bearing profiles is calculated as follows: the width of the room in meters is divided by 0.4 (this is exactly the spacing of the elements). They must also be made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm.
Fasteners for drywall	This includes direct hangers, profile connectors, as well as hardware products. Of the hardware, you need a dowel-nails, self-tapping bugs and self-tapping screws for metal for fixing drywall
insulation	If you need to insulate or soundproof the surface, then a mineral wool

If you want to ensure the best sound insulation of the structure, then a special acoustic tape is placed under the wall profile and suspensions. It dampens the vibrations passing through the structure, and thereby reduces the noise level in the room by half.

Now let's figure out what materials the ceiling surface is leveled with:

Putty "Vetonit" - an excellent solution for leveling the ceiling

Material	Selection Tips
putty	Choose a composition that has high plasticity, fits well on the surface and is easily overwritten. All these requirements are met by Vetonit products. I use it and have never been disappointed with the quality.
Sealing compound	To strengthen the joints, you need to use compounds of increased strength. The most popular solution is Knauf Fugen. It is a gypsum-based mixture with high strength and resistance to cracking.
Primer	To strengthen the surface, it is necessary to process it special composition deep penetration. The most popular are acrylic-based options.
Serpyanka mesh	Needed to strengthen joints. The most commonly used version is 45 mm wide with a self-adhesive layer.
Dye	Used for surface finishing. Use any composition suitable for application to the putty surface

Now let's deal with the tool with which the installation of suspended plasterboard ceilings is carried out with our own hands:

Perforator for drilling holes for dowel-nails;
Laser or water level for marking the plane. Normal level for design control. Roulette and pencil for measurements and marking;

Metal shears for profile cutting. The simplest manual version will do;
Screwdriver with nozzles PH2 for tightening self-tapping screws;

You can cut drywall with an ordinary construction knife;
A container and a drill with a mixer are needed for preparing mixtures;
For application, narrow (10 cm) and wide (30 cm) spatulas are used;

To level the surface, a grater and sandpaper or mesh with a grain size of P150 or less is used;
Primer and paint are applied with a roller, joints and hard-to-reach areas are treated with a brush.

Stage 2 - marking the position of the wall profile and its fastening

This is the first part of the work, where the following actions are performed:

The lowest point of the ceiling is determined. Level suspended structure must be 50 mm below this area. If you put recessed lights in the ceiling, then the indent will be at least 80 mm, otherwise the equipment simply will not fit;
Then you need to make markings around the perimeter of the room. If you are working with a water level, then you need to make a mark in one corner, and then, moving the other end to other corners, mark the entire room. Lines are then drawn between the points. If you have a laser level, then everything is simplified: you just draw a line on the mark;

Next, the profile is cut into pieces of the required size, applied along the line, and the attachment points of the elements are marked. If there is no hole 10 cm from the edge, then you need to drill it and mark the location of the drilling site on the wall. Drilling is performed by a perforator with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm. In order not to check the depth of the holes, stick electrical tape or tape on the drill as a guide;
If you will fasten the profile through acoustic tape, then do not forget to stick it before installing the guide elements. The self-adhesive side is pressed against the base of the profile and evenly glued along the entire length. Do not forget to cut holes in the locations of the dowels;

The profile is attached to the surface, after which dowels are inserted into the holes. The screws are simply driven in with a hammer. On this mount can be considered complete.

Stage 3 - frame construction

The installation of the frame consists of the following steps:

First you need to draw lines every 40 cm. These will be the guidelines for the location of the ceiling profiles. That is, from center to center of each element should be 40 centimeters;
According to the markings, suspensions are attached to the ceiling, they are located perpendicular to the line at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is better to mount the mount in a checkerboard pattern so that each next row is not in line with the previous one, but with an offset. Can be glued under hangers sealing tape if you used it on wall rails;

If the length of the room is less than three meters, then the excess part of the suspensions is cut off with scissors. If the length is longer, then you need to increase the racks to the desired size. Please note that the extension is done using special connectors. They allow you to maintain the ideal geometry of the racks and ensure their secure fastening;

The profile is carefully inserted into the guide elements and is located in the middle of the line. After that, you need to fasten the structure on both sides with the help of self-tapping bugs. Two elements are screwed into each connection, it is better to use fasteners with a sharp tip;

The hangers are bent to the profile, after which you need to check the position of the element using a level. If everything is fine, then you can proceed to the mount. Everything is easy here: on both sides it is screwed along a self-tapping screw into a suitable hole. The extra ends are simply bent to the sides, they will not interfere with you;

Jumpers are placed if the frame is made in increments of 60 cm. They are located after 50 cm and fixed with crabs, this is the name of the cross-shaped profile connector. The work is simple: elements of the required size are cut and screwed to the crab with screws;

If it is necessary to isolate the surface, then mineral wool is laid under the frame. You don't need to fix it, it will hold up just fine.

Stage 4 - fastening drywall

At this stage of ceiling installation, you need to carry out the following work:

A chamfer is cut from the side ends of the sheets. It is better to do this in advance than to carry out work on the ceiling later. The work is carried out with a knife, the end is cut at an angle of 45 degrees to a distance of no more than 5 mm;

Mounting starts from any corner of the room. The work is done by three people, two hold the sheet, and one grabs it with 3.5x25 mm self-tapping screws. You will not be able to cope with the installation yourself, so be sure to involve assistants. In order not to stand and not hold the material on outstretched arms, you can use mops or knock down a similar design from the rails;

Fastening is done every 15 cm along the edges of the sheets and 20 cm in the middle. The indent from the edges must be at least 15 mm so as not to crumble the material. At the junction of drywall sheets, leave a gap of 2-3 mm, the same distance should be at the junction with the walls;

Remember that the self-tapping screw must be correctly positioned on the surface. The cap should be recessed by 1-2 mm, and not stick out above the surface and not push through the sheet. A diagram of the correct location of the fastener is shown below.

Thus, the entire surface is sheathed. Here you need to pay attention to correct location self-tapping screws on joined sheets. It is better if they are not located opposite each other, but with an offset. Sample correct installation shown in the diagram below.

Stage 5 - sealing joints

Assembling suspended ceilings from plasterboard with your own hands is still half the battle. It is necessary to properly finish them so that the surface is perfectly even and does not crack in a year or two. Connections of elements are the most problematic areas, where cracks most often form.

To avoid this, it is worth strengthening them qualitatively:

First of all, you need to clean all the joints from dust. Just rub them with a dry cloth or brush;
Then the joints are treated with a primer. The composition is applied at a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Pay special attention to the ends of the sheets, try to apply the primer so that it gets into the joint;

After the soil has dried, a sickle tape is glued to the seams. Everything is simple here: the material is gradually unwound and pressed against the surface. It is important that the mesh is glued over the entire area and does not stick out anywhere. You can cut it off with scissors or a knife; you should not tear the material;

A mortar for the Knauf Fugen seams is being prepared, you don’t need to do a lot of it, since it sets in half an hour. The mass is applied to the joints and pressed with a spatula to fill all the voids. Excess composition is carefully removed with a spatula, the mass should completely cover the sickle mesh;

The caps of the screws are also sealed with small strokes. After finishing work, neither joints nor fasteners should be visible;

After the composition dries, it is necessary to wipe the surface with a grater from a larger one to remove sags and irregularities. There is no need for special quality here, it is important to remove all noticeable flaws;
Lastly, the surface is primed over the entire area. This allows you to strengthen the already applied composition and balance the absorbency of the base over the entire area.

Stage 6 - puttying and painting

Now let's figure out how to level the ceiling of drywall with your own hands.

The work instructions look like this:

First of all, the putty composition is prepared. To do this, water is poured into the container and the required amount of dry mixture is poured (the proportions are always indicated on the package). It is important to mix the components qualitatively so that a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained;

Application is made from any angle. The composition is distributed along the blade of a wide spatula and gently distributed over the surface. The tool is held at an angle of 15 degrees to the surface and is driven with moderate pressure. Pay no attention to the influxes, they will be eliminated later. The main thing is to distribute the composition in a thin layer throughout the ceiling;

After the first layer has dried, you need to walk over the surface with a spatula and cut off the sagging, if any. Your task is to remove all noticeable flaws so that they do not interfere with the final leveling of the surface;
The second layer is applied very carefully, try to level the surface as best as possible. Guide the spatula with sweeping movements. If sagging is formed somewhere - it's okay, they can be easily eliminated. It is important to level the overall level of the ceiling so that there are no holes and scratches on the surface from the edge of the spatula;

After the surface has dried (and it takes about 24 hours), you can start sanding it. The work is dirty, so stock up on a respirator and goggles in advance. Sandpaper is placed on the grater and surface treatment begins section by section. You need to rub with moderate pressure in a spiral motion;

The plane is checked using a light bulb or flashlight. Directional light immediately shows all the flaws, and you can easily bring out a perfectly flat surface, even if you are doing this work for the first time;

If there are flaws in some places, then the problem areas need to be puttied, after which they are polished with a grater. After that, the surface can be considered fully prepared;
The ceiling is cleaned of dust with a brush or vacuum cleaner, after which a primer is made. The composition is applied with a roller to the entire surface, this will strengthen the finishing layer and improve paint adhesion;

Staining is done after the complete drying of the soil. Depending on the color, it may be necessary to apply 2-3 coats of the compound for an even color.