Balcony insulation (100 photos): step by step instructions, tips and tricks from the masters. Do-it-yourself loggia insulation, step-by-step instructions Do-it-yourself balcony insulation instructions

1. Improvement will allow. Additional square meters are never superfluous. Here you can equip a living room, an office, a small fitness area or a winter garden.
2. warm outline get rid of dampness and cold. And the space itself will turn into a cozy and beautiful corner of the house.
3. This reliable protection from drafts. Often in the room to which the loggia adjoins, it is colder than in the others. It will become a kind of buffer between the room and the street. Thus, a comfortable microclimate will be provided in the apartment.

The choice of insulation method

The location of the apartment and climatic conditions will help determine how to insulate the room. The south side and the top floor contribute to overheating. On the north side, the sun is a rare visitor, so it is much cooler here.

Warming methods

• External insulation. Rigid insulation is laid outside. It is covered with a reinforcing mesh, a layer decorative plaster. The benefit is obvious - the interior space of the room is not reduced. However, outdoor work, especially on the upper floors, is complex and time-consuming.
• Bilateral thermal insulation. The material is laid outside and inside. The solution is very laborious and impractical. In fact, you have to do the same job twice. After all, one-sided isolation is quite effective.
• Internal insulation. The insulator is laid from the inside, which slightly reduces the usable area. But the work, if desired, is carried out independently.

In practice, the latter option is most often chosen, since it is the simplest and most affordable. External thermal insulation is effective, but too difficult to implement.

In addition, in some cases, external insulation may require the decision of the local administration. This happens if the house belongs to architectural monuments. It is good for the lower floors.

The choice of insulation

The choice of heaters is very wide. To navigate this diversity, you need to know what criteria to choose coverage.

Criterias of choice

• It is optimal if it is non-hygroscopic, or at least with minimal values ​​​​for this indicator.
• Fire safety. Still, no one is safe from emergency situations, so I would like to ensure maximum safety for myself.
• Durability is important in order to warm the room as little as possible.
• Another important nuance is the safety of the material. It must not release toxic substances under any circumstances. If the manufacturer warns that this is possible when certain temperatures are exceeded, you should refuse to choose.
• Biostability makes the material a reliable barrier against the formation of dangerous and harmful to human health microorganisms and mold.

All insulators are divided into several groups.

Roll insulation

Loose coatings produced in the form of strips rolled into rolls. For the most part, these are various wools: slag, mineral, glass. Before installation, they are cut, mounted in a prepared frame. Due to the loose structure, they can deform over time, while losing their insulating characteristics. A significant plus is the low price.

Among roll coatings there are thin foil materials, for example, penofol. They are used as an addition to the main insulation. The metallized coating reflects heat waves and prevents them from leaving the room.

Slab

dense plates different thickness. This group includes very different insulators. These are expanded polystyrene, penoplex, etc. Easy to install, do not deform during operation.

sprayed

Liquid polyurethane foam applied to the base using special equipment. After it hardens, a seamless insulating layer is formed. Ecowool is laid almost similarly to the wet method. Both insulators have a minimum thermal conductivity and serve for decades. The main disadvantage is the need to use special styling tools.

Instructions for warming in 3 steps

The progress of the work is determined by the condition of the premises. Before you insulate the loggia from the inside with your own hands, start with glazing - you need to install energy efficient ones. At this stage, work on the laying of the parapet may be required. The new glazing will look more aesthetically pleasing, but it will be only a couple of degrees warmer here compared to the street.

The fact is that this space, by definition, is non-residential. This means that the walls, floor and ceiling are not able to fully save heat. And you need to decide how to heat the room. It can be infrared or electric floor heating. It is possible to install a heater.

Preparatory work

Start with preparation. Remove the old coating from the floor, walls and ceiling. Clean up exposed surfaces. They are carefully examined. All cracks, chips and other flaws will have to be removed. They are carefully sealed with a putty mixture, allowed to dry completely, cleaned.

Joints are carefully sealed. Most inexpensive heat insulators are hygroscopic. The moisture that gets into them accumulates, gradually destroys them and the finish. Therefore, waterproofing is necessary. Joints are glued special tape or smeared with mastic. After that, all internal surfaces.

Work on laying thermal insulation is usually carried out according to the principle from top to bottom. Let's analyze all the stages in more detail.

Ceiling insulation

The technology depends on the type of insulation, lining, etc. In general terms, the installation instructions look like this:

1. We collect the crate. For its manufacture, we take a bar or a metal profile. The latter is most often chosen for the subsequent installation of drywall. We fix the slats to the ceiling along the perimeter. Then we lay the timber in steps of 0.6 m.
2. Checking horizontal. We take the level and define the plane. It must be set very precisely. Otherwise, the ceiling will be uneven. Found bugs are corrected.
3. We cut the heat insulator. It can be rolled or slab. In any case, we cut off the fragments so that they are 3-4 mm larger than the crate. So the material will lie tightly, without cold bridges. It will be better kept in the design.
4. We put the insulation in place. You can additionally fix the plates with a suitable adhesive. If cracks form, carefully fill them with foam.

Then you can lay a layer of penofol with the foil side down. So it will reflect heat waves back. After that, proceed to the installation of the finish. This is just one of possible options thermal insulation installations.

For solid slabs, a slightly different technique is used. The plates are glued to the base with special glue. It is applied dotted in the corners and center. After gluing, we carry out additional fixation of the plates with dowels-fungi. And then we fix penofol. We put it with a foil layer down, glue the joints with tape.

On top of the insulation, we assemble a crate from a metal profile or beams, on which we then fix the finish.

Wall insulation

One of the most simple options there will be insulation of the loggia with penoplex. These are moisture resistant boards with low thermal conductivity. high density and light weight make them easy to install. You can choose any other suitable material. Rigid slabs are mounted without crates, but most often they put it. We offer step by step instructions for the process.

1. We lay and fix thin foil polyethylene foam to the base. It will perform two functions at once: it will serve as additional waterproofing and will reflect heat rays, preventing them from leaving the room. The foil layer should "look" inward.
2. We put a crate of wooden bars or metal profiles. The pitch of the lamellas is not 60-70 cm. We try to choose a value that is a multiple of the width of the insulation.
3. We cut the insulation. We cut out the details a little more than the cells of the crate so that they fit tightly into it.
4. We put insulation in the cells. We foam all the resulting cracks. The reverse side of the metal profile, where there are voids, is also foamed. Otherwise, cold bridges will remain, which will lead to the formation of condensate and gradual deterioration of the insulation.
5. We lay the vapor barrier. It is a thin film with small holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.

After that, you can start decorative trim. A wooden or metal crate is mounted on the walls and ceiling, to which either a lining is attached. As finishing you can use wallpaper or paint. In this case, you will need additional work. Sheets of moisture-resistant drywall are fixed to the crate. They are primed, puttied, leveled and after that wallpaper is glued or painted.

Given that the simple fastening of the vapor barrier is not sufficiently reliable, dowels-"mushrooms" are additionally installed. So called fasteners with wide caps. They need five pieces for each plate: in the corners and in the center.

The heater is closed with a vapor barrier. For this, it is recommended to use vapor barrier films or foil-foamed polyethylene. It will work as steam, hydro and additional thermal insulation. The foil side is turned inside the room.

The vapor barrier is fixed with polyurethane glue or double-sided tape. The seams between the vapor barrier sheets and the joints with the structures are glued with metallized tape. The finishing decor is mounted on top.

Floor insulation on the loggia

Any heat insulator is chosen, sometimes expanded clay is used. This is a bulk material with a relatively low weight. It takes a lot, so for balconies in old houses it is better to choose a different solution. The load on the plate may be too large. produced between lags. It is done like this:

1. Before mounting the plates, all holes and slots are sealed with mounting foam, and then the surface is leveled, for example, using self-leveling cement-sand mixtures. If there is a risk of water penetrating through the "pie" of the floor, then it is possible to apply a layer on the concrete slab and the lower part of the walls (to a height of 300 mm) before leveling coating waterproofing(cement-based, etc.).
2. We install a layer of waterproofing. You can choose a special mastic or lay a film. In any case, we especially carefully isolate the joints of the floor and walls. Lay the joints of the strips correctly overlap and fix with adhesive tape.
3. We expose lags. We cut the wooden bars to size, put them on the base. Be sure to level the top edge of each part. Otherwise, the floor will be uneven. We fix the lags to the base with metal corners or in any other way.
4. We cut the heat insulator, if necessary. We put it in the cells between the lags. We seal the coating so that there are no voids. Slots can be foamed.
5. We lay a layer of vapor barrier. It is a thin film with small holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.
6. We lay the subfloor. We fasten it to the lags with self-tapping screws.

After that, you can finish the insulated room. To make everything clear, we suggest watching a video about warming the loggia with your own hands.

It is much easier and faster to insulate the structure with polyurethane foam or ecowool. They spray evenly on all surfaces. Forms a dense seamless insulating coating. Given the size of the room, the whole process takes just a few minutes. Unfortunately, you cannot do the work yourself. Requires special equipment. Therefore, such insulation may be too costly.

Many people want to expand the living space of their apartment and the easiest way to do this is by adding a balcony. But in order to make it habitable, it is necessary to take care of noise and waterproofing, as well as to reduce the thermal conductivity of its walls. Although the process of insulating a balcony is not the easiest, it is quite possible to do it yourself. This article provides detailed instructions how to insulate a balcony yourself.

Balcony insulation materials

The choice of material is one of the most important aspects, because each material has its own individual physical and chemical properties. Common materials such as polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, isolon, expanded clay, polyurethane. Next, consider the pros and cons of each of the materials.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is a foamed material with a porous microstructure, produced on the basis of styrene. They are produced in the form of square or rectangular plates.

• low cost;
• long service life;
• has antifungal and anti-mold properties;
• easy to install; moisture resistant;
• immune to temperature fluctuations.

• is destroyed when interacting with paints and varnishes;
• very fragile.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam - made on the basis of polystyrene, by extrusion. Produced in the form of rectangular plates.

• low cost;
• protects from both sunlight and frost;
• has high isolation from noise and liquid;
• easy to install;

• fragile;
• more expensive than styrofoam.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is made from sedimentary, glass and volcanic natural materials. Supplied in slabs and rolls with different densities.

• good sound and heat insulation;
• passes steam through itself, preventing its accumulation in itself;
• fire resistant;
• environmentally friendly.

• inconvenient during installation, causes itching upon contact with the skin;
• releases poisonous phenol gas when heated.

Izolon

Isolon is a two-layer insulation. Outwardly covered with thick foil, and inside is a material resembling multilayer polyethylene foam. Most often used for wall insulation, behind batteries, because foil is an excellent reflector of heat waves.

• ease of installation;
• compactness;
• good thermal insulation.

• poor sound insulation;
• when compared with other heaters, then isolon is weaker.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay - clay particles that have been fired and have the shape of an oval or circle.

• low cost;
• fire resistant;
• has good thermal and sound insulation characteristics;
• has antifungal and anti-mold properties;
• lightweight, so it does not weigh down the balcony.

• long drying time;
• complexity of installation;
• increased dust formation.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a representative of the class of gas-filled plastics. It has a liquid consistency, when the subspace is filled with it, it foams and hardens.

• high sound and thermal insulation;
• high protection against steam and liquid;
• easy to install.

Cons: requires the use of special tools.

Attention! Consider the following, in no case should the balcony be made heavier, these are violations of the house design standards.

Do-it-yourself balcony insulation

Proper installation of insulation material is a guarantee of long-term and quality. In order not to forget anything and not to make a mistake anywhere, you must initially prepare a step-by-step instruction (plan) and clearly follow it point by point.

Warming can be carried out both from the inside of the balcony and from the outside. But at self-insulation it is better to choose the option of warming the balcony from the inside.

Preparatory work consist of:

• Checking the supporting structure;
• Dismantling of trim and frame;
• Patching tile gaps concrete mortar;
• Clearing the balcony from unnecessary items;
• Balcony glazing. Choose 2 or 3-chamber double-glazed windows for better thermal and sound insulation;
• Carrying out electrical wiring;
• Insulation preparation.

Floor insulation

Initially, it is more logical to start with floor insulation on the balcony.

Action plan:

Mounting foam patches various cracks in the floor. You can also use a sealant or polyurethane mastic.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the concrete slab. You can use ordinary polyethylene in these integers. It must be laid with an overlap, with a ledge on the wall.

We install a frame of bars 50-70 mm. Initially, the beams are laid on the balcony slab with gaps between them of 40-60 cm. To fasten the beams, use anchors about 110 mm long. Next, on top of the screws, we fix the bars in the longitudinal direction. They will be used to level the floor.

Further, in the resulting cavities in the frame, insulation material. And at the end, the finishing surface is mounted on top using self-tapping screws. When fixing the finish layer, it is necessary to leave small gaps at the junction with the walls to prevent squeaks during operation. Cracks near the walls are filled with mounting foam.

Attention! The thickness of the insulation must exceed 7 cm for high-quality floor insulation. But you should not use too thick insulation. After all, the height of the threshold must be made below 20 cm, and the height of the room should not exceed 2.45 m, and the height of the fence should be more than 95 cm. Based on these data, you must choose the optimal thickness of the insulation for you.

Wall insulation

Action plan:

Waterproofing is in progress. Bars are installed on top of the waterproofing, in the form of a lattice. The cross section of the beam must be chosen in such a way that after laying the insulation there remains small space between the finish surface and the insulation. As a result, an air cushion is formed - thermal insulation characteristics will improve.

We put a heater in the formed cells. Wall finishing. Chipboard, lining, drywall, etc. can be used as a finishing material. It depends on individual preferences.

You can choose the material that is right for you in terms of aesthetic parameters by viewing a lot of photos of balcony insulation on the Internet.

Ceiling insulation

There are two options for ceiling insulation: with and without a frame. In the second option, it is necessary to use lightweight materials and this insulation is attached directly to the ceiling plate.

Action plan:

The cleaned surface of the ceiling is covered with an antiseptic. The insulation is attached with mounting foam or glue.

Bars are attached over the material for mounting the finish. If you apply mineral wool: initially a frame is made, then a heater is laid and drywall is mounted. The finish coat is installed.

Warming the balcony from the outside is more correct. This method of insulation allows you to save the balcony space, as well as prevent the formation of condensate from the inside.

But the problem is that it is almost impossible to produce it without specialists. Therefore, it is better to order the insulation of the balcony from the outside from specialized organizations specializing in the insulation of turnkey balconies.

Photo of balcony insulation

Until recently, the balconies of city apartments served as a kind of storerooms - people kept conservation and various things there. What is there, on the balconies they carried out any unnecessary rubbish that it was a pity to throw away. Today, however, these spaces are increasingly being used as additional living space. And in order to realize such an idea, you need to take care of the insulation of the balcony.

If you insulate the balcony, you will not only be able to expand the living space of the apartment relatively cheaply, but also significantly reduce the heat loss of housing. The fact is that it is through the balconies that most of the heat leaves. But in order for everything to be done efficiently, you need to know where to start. With a well-designed scheme, it will be much easier to turn a cold balcony into a small, but almost full-fledged room.

So, first sketch out a rough work plan - it will include:

Important information! The balcony can be insulated both from the inside and outside. But in view of the fact that you will do the work on your own, that is, without the help of specialists, it is better to resort to internal insulation.

Stage number 1. Choosing a heater

There are a lot of heat-insulating materials on the modern construction market, but it is more suitable for a balcony:

As for foam plastic and XPS, the laying of these materials is carried out using almost the same technology (the only exception is the form of adhesion - it is better for XPS due to the use of grooves).

It is better not to use mineral wool for a balcony - the installation procedure will be more laborious, and the condensate that inevitably forms on the balcony is undesirable for this material. Expanded clay, for obvious reasons, can only be used for floor insulation (insulation technology will be described in detail below).

And if we add to all of the above the fact that the balcony should in no case be overloaded, then it becomes obvious: the most suitable option- This is a foam plastic 4-5 cm thick, which is cheaper than polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

Stage number 2. We carry out glazing

If your balcony is already glazed, you can skip this step. The glazing procedure itself largely depends on the parapet installed on the balcony. If we are talking about an iron crate, then you must build it up using foam blocks or ceramic bricks. It is important that the wall thickness as a result exceeds the mark of 10 cm. And if you have a reinforced concrete parapet, you can immediately start installing windows.

Today, many (especially admirers of environmentally friendly building materials) prefer double-glazed windows with wooden frames. It is worth remembering that such structures must be treated with an antiseptic and regularly painted. You can learn about the installation of double-glazed windows with wooden frames from the video below.

Video - How to install a wooden window with double-glazed windows

However, most consumers still buy PVC windows. When buying, choose a special plastic profile, characterized by increased rigidity and strength indicators. In addition, the profile must have good thermal insulation performance.

More at plastic windows it should be:

• 5-chamber profile;
• 2-chamber (if you live in middle lane) or 3-chamber (if in a more severe climate) double-glazed window;
• reinforced reinforcement.

After installing the PVC construction ordered according to the dimensions of the balcony (specialists should do the work), you can proceed directly to the insulation.

Stage number 3. We warm the floor

Consider how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands using polystyrene (although the technology described below is also suitable for polystyrene foam).

Table. Floor insulation on the balcony

Steps, no.	Short description	Illustration
Step #1	First, prepare the work surfaces - seal all the cracks found in the concrete with mounting foam, as well as at the joints between the slabs and the wall.
Step #2	Mark the floor for the subsequent construction of the crate. At the same time, it is important that the pitch of the crate exceeds the width of the insulation sheets by about 10 mm.
Step #3	According to the previously made markings, lay the slats (the approximate size of the bars is 4x4 cm, however, it is necessary that their width matches the thickness of the insulating material). First and latest reiki should retreat from the walls by 50-100 mm. Connect the rails with self-tapping screws.
Step #4	Lay foam sheets between the battens, gluing them to the floor liquid nails or special glue. Blow out all the voids formed as a result of this with mounting foam.
Step #5	Lay on top of the insulation Lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation (required to increase thermal insulation and prevent condensation). If you use ordinary PET film, then in no case lay it on the "cold" side of the insulator. If you are laying foil insulation, then do it with foil to the foam.
Step #6	Fasten sheets of plywood or chipboard from above, and the thickness floor covering must be at least 20 mm. Attach the sheets to the rails with self-tapping screws.
Step #7	It remains only to lay the finish coating, for which you can use carpet or linoleum.

Important information! There is another way to insulate the floor on the balcony with foam plastic: foam sheets are attached to the leveled and cleaned surface, and a thin screed is poured on top from a previously prepared dry mix solution. As finish coat ceramic tiles can be used here.

Alternative option. We use expanded clay

As noted earlier, the floor on the balcony can also be insulated with expanded clay. This material is also inexpensive, and its installation is not difficult. Let's get acquainted with the algorithm of actions.

Step #1. First, lay a waterproofing film on the floor with a 10 cm exit to the walls.

Step #2. Arrange beacons around the perimeter in increments of about 25 cm, while being careful not to lean them too much against the walls.

Step #3. Fill the floor with a layer of expanded clay 15 cm thick, evenly distribute the material over the surface.

Step number 4. Moisten expanded clay with cement "milk" (this is an aqueous solution of cement).

Step number 5. Pour expanded clay with a layer of concrete or self-leveling mixture. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure of the insulator.

Step number 6. Wait for the screed to dry completely. After that, you can start laying the finish coat.

Stage number 4. We insulate the walls

The technology here is almost the same as for floor insulation. Do the following.

Step #1. Mark the future location of the rails on the walls (as for the floor).

Step #2. Attach the slats according to the given markup.

Step #3. Apply in waves to surfaces. mounting foam. At the same stage, holes for dowels should be drilled.

Step #4. Attach the styrofoam sheets using plastic mushroom dowels.

Step #5. Blow out all the cracks formed with mounting foam, then glue with mounting tape.

Step #6. Lay a waterproofing layer on top - for example, penofol, which at the same time will also serve as thermal insulation.

Step #7. Seal the seams at the joints with foil tape.

Step number 8. Mount the counter-lattice on top of the foam foam and install the finishing material.

Stage number 5. We insulate the ceiling

This procedure is also performed using a similar technology, but there are still some differences.

1. First, mark up where the hangers for attaching the rails will be installed.
2. Install the suspensions themselves, necessary for fixing the guides (use a galvanized profile or timber as the latter).

   

   

3. Cut small holes in the insulator (styrofoam or XPS) in appropriate places for hangers.

   

   

4. Next, fix the insulation boards using the same mounting foam.

   

If the insulation weighs too much, then you can use dowels for fastening. Fill the cracks with foam. Otherwise, there are no significant differences.

Finishing Features

In most cases, balconies are lined with clapboard or profile from the inside, but drywall is also used, followed by wallpapering. PVC panels are also used for cladding. As for the exterior decoration, it is better to entrust it to professionals, especially if your apartment is located higher than on the first floor.

Important information! It is forbidden to conduct central heating there, so if additional heating is required, you can lay a film "warm floor" under the linoleum.

You can also install an outlet on the balcony, to which it will be connected electric heater. The described room is small, so heating will take a minimum of time. We also note that a double-glazed window weighs quite a lot, so the rest of the materials (including the insulator itself) should be with a minimum weight. By the way, this is another reason why it is better to give preference to XPS or foam boards.

Video - Instructions for warming the balcony

Now you know about the strengths and weaknesses of materials suitable for insulating a balcony, as well as about the technologies for laying foam and expanded clay. So it's time to get straight to work! Moreover, there is nothing complicated here if you are armed with step-by-step instructions and all necessary materials. If you do everything right, then turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room with all the ensuing benefits.

By insulating the balcony, we create a buffer zone on the way of cold air to the living quarters, we add a little square meters to create a pantry, or even a small room - but this is if you connect a heater. In our step-by-step instructions, we will tell you how to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands and what materials are used for this.

Balcony insulation begins with a check load-bearing structures. To do this, it is advisable to look at the balcony slab from the balcony of the neighbors below: if the beginning of destruction is visible to the naked eye, then the concrete and reinforcing layer can be strengthened as shown in the figure. If you doubt the strength of the plate and the ability to carry an increased load of glazing, insulation, floors, it is better to seek expertise. Although, as practice shows, balconies can easily withstand the increased load and collapse - this, fortunately, is an extremely rare exception to the rule.

a - concrete is knocked down in damaged places. b - the surface is cleaned and applied repair compounds: 1 - contact layer; 2 - anti-corrosion protection; 3 - repair solution; 4 - leveling putty

Remove before starting work old finish and frames (if any), clean all surfaces from collapsing elements, if necessary, make a small concrete screed or seal cracks in the slab with concrete mortar.

Insulation work can be divided into:

• outer skin;
• glazing;
• internal insulation;
• finishing.

Outside parapet siding

The easiest way to make the outer skin of the balcony is vinyl siding.

Outside the parapet, a vertical crate is assembled in such a way that it forms a single flat area (check with a stretched thread). The bars or the metal profile of the crate are fixed at a distance of about 40 cm from each other. Further, guides for siding (closing profile) are mounted along the lower and upper perimeters, and the corners are made out with a special vinyl profile - the “outer corner”.

The starting siding bar is attached with the long side to the lower rail using self-tapping screws. It is better to start from the side wall - and the panel is shorter and less visible from the street - you can practice. Between the siding and the balcony grille, you can immediately lay soft mineral wool slabs. At the top of the parapet, you need to mount a drainage system.

A very short video about the main stages of sheathing:

Glazing is a mandatory step in the insulation of the balcony. In this case, you can independently make frames made of wood, aluminum or steel profile(corner, profile pipe) and glaze, or you can purchase ready-made double-glazed windows. The first option will cost less, but it is more time consuming and, most importantly, will only slightly be able to raise the temperature on the balcony in winter. You are unlikely to succeed in sealed windows without the use of double-glazed window technologies, they will have to be insulated or not insulated for the winter and leave the balcony, in principle, cold, which will only reduce the wind load. So it is better to order ready-made double-glazed windows for glazing.

If the balcony was not glazed, and you are not insulating the loggia, then the parapet for installing frames is most likely missing or insufficient. You can create a retaining wall in the form of a reinforcing cage with concrete or brick. To facilitate the construction, expanded clay can be poured into concrete, reducing the total load. The top of the parapet must also be reinforced with a metal profile.

If the protective grille of the balcony is strong enough, and the double-glazed windows are single-chamber, aluminum are very light, then wooden planks under the window sill, which are attached to the top of the grate.

If the balcony has a small area, then you can weld a frame on brackets that protrudes beyond the concrete slab. At the same time, the window sill will not "eat" the valuable volume of the balcony. Such a balcony device is called takeaway.

After that, window sills and the frame of future glazing are installed - without frames and sashes, which will be mounted later. To do this, the metal structure is welded to metal profile parapet and supports attached to the neighbor's balcony slab from above. If you live on the top floor, the design will be more complicated, since you will have to make a canopy-roof, for example, from corrugated board, polycarbonate, etc. At the same time, the racks must be more durable.

After the frame is fixed, the upper drains (visor) are mounted and double-glazed windows are installed according to the instructions.

On the features of glazing small balconies without increasing the area, see the video:

Balcony insulation from the inside

From the inside, the balcony is insulated from the sides of the walls, floor and ceiling. To do this, you can use various thermal insulation materials.

Balcony insulation materials

The thermal conductivity of building thermal insulation materials varies widely, so it is impossible to unambiguously name the recommended thickness. For information, see how the optimal thicknesses differ to achieve the same thermal resistance when using popular materials.

The main requirements for materials also include:

• long-term strength;
• non-hygroscopicity;
• fire safety.

Most often used:

• mineral or stone wool- fibrous insulation;
• lightweight foam and "Penoplex" ( different types polystyrene) - board materials;
• polyurethane foam or "Penoflex" - polyurethane foam.

Sometimes a composition of these materials is used.

Fibrous insulation is easy to install when it is made in the form of soft plates or a blanket with a foil surface.

Polyurethane foam is applied using special, preferably professional equipment.

To compare the consumer properties of materials, we have summarized their main characteristics in a table.

Stages of warming the balcony from the inside

Now that the basic properties of thermal insulation building materials we know, consider the order of work.

Advice! If lighting or heating devices are supposed to be connected on the balcony, make the wiring to the lamp, switch and socket in advance by placing the cables in plastic boxes. So the wiring will be hidden, which is much more attractive than open wiring.

Before work, make sure that dust, small particles of insulation or a solution do not pollute the apartment - close the openings with a film.

Floor insulation

Warming should start from the floor. First, a layer of waterproofing should be laid on the balcony slab. It can be ordinary polyethylene or foil isol. At this stage waterproofing material can also be attached to walls.

To protect against condensation, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top. If you purchase embossed film, then you need to lay it with the embossed side up.

The subfloor is completed with 10 mm thick plywood in two layers. It is attached to the lags with self-tapping screws. Instead of plywood, you can use sheets of fiberboard or chipboard.

Ceiling insulation

Apply a layer of antiseptic to the cleaned ceiling. For thermal insulation, you can take foil-clad mineral wool or polystyrene. A good solution would be to use penofol - a foam material covered with aluminum foil, which is glued to the PVA, and nailed on top with a crate for attaching the finishing layer of the finish - a stacked ceiling, drywall or siding.

Styrofoam can be fixed to the ceiling with mounting foam.

Mineral wool is laid on a false plasterboard ceiling, which is fixed on an aluminum profile frame or a wooden bar 40x40 mm.

If required, we fix the lamps.

Wall insulation

Waterproofing has already been completed at the first stage, so a vertical or horizontal crate of timber is immediately mounted on top of it. The distance between the bars is equal to the width of the heat-insulating material. For walls, it is better to use polystyrene foam or mineral wool boards.

PPS can be glued to special glue or mounting foam, be sure to blow out all the joints and cracks with it.

A vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the insulation.

Finishing work

There are many materials that can be used to decorate a balcony. This is drywall, which can be plastered or covered with wallpaper, and tiles, and vinyl siding, and lining.

On most balconies, stationary or mobile clothes dryers are mounted, which can rise to the ceiling.

If the area allows, compact furniture or transforming furniture can be installed on the balcony: reclining tables and seats, and some happy owners of wide balconies even equip sleeping area. The window sill can be made wider and turned into a countertop - for morning coffee or business.

If desired, a fan heater can be installed on the balcony, which will allow using additional space in spring and autumn, or an electric convector can be installed, which will make the balcony all-weather for equipping an office or a winter garden there.

In conclusion, we invite you to look at photos of the design finishes of the balcony space - for inspiration and a source of ideas.

Despite small size, the comprehensive modernization of these parts of residential facilities is a difficult task. To figure out how to do it yourself step by step photo need to be supplemented detailed descriptions work operations. Useful information about modern materials, . It is necessary to find out how the new premises will be equipped. Finding the right answers to these and other practical questions will be easier after reading this article.

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Do-it-yourself balcony insulation: step-by-step instructions for preparatory work

Open balconies in domestic climatic conditions can be fully used for no more than a few months a year. They are blown by cold winds, filled with rain and covered with snow. After the implementation of the project, the necessary protection will be created. Even when choosing the most economical option, the insulating characteristics of the property will improve, and the cost of heating will decrease. After a deep modernization, you can actually increase the living space at a relatively low cost.

Mistake prevention

Some important details should be noted at the beginning to rule out wrong decisions:

• Excessive "frugality" can subsequently be transformed into additional costs. If you install cheap frames without, use insufficient quality and Decoration Materials, the desired result will not be obtained. Subsequent alterations are additional costs.
• The wrong choice of technology is also accompanied by troubles. It is necessary to carefully study the nuances of the techniques in order to make sure that they are realistic in their reproduction on their own. To perform the most complex work processes, you can invite specialized specialists.
• Standard ones cannot be installed on the balcony. Some municipal authorities prohibit changing the color of exterior surfaces, installing frames, and other changes that are visible from the outside.

Important! Make sure that the project does not violate the requirements of applicable codes and regulations. If such a structure is not officially agreed upon, it will have to be removed at its own expense with the payment of a fine.

Formulation of the problem

After a detailed study of thematic materials, final conclusions will be drawn. But already at the first stage, it is necessary to formulate general requirements, note the following important details:

• Even a small upgrade increases the weight of the structure. It is necessary to take into account the increase in loads on the load-bearing frame, to plan a specialized check. In some situations, a separate engineering calculation will be required.
• If it remains door block, it is not necessary to impose increased requirements on the insulating characteristics of the balcony. Otherwise, they should be no worse than in .
• A home computer network is being installed in the new room. We need to decide on the equipment of the balcony.
• It is desirable here to make the floor the same level as the room, without thresholds and steps.

This figure shows that, if desired, you can increase the available area. But we must remember that such structures significantly increase the load on the building. They must be approved in the manner prescribed by law, since significant changes are expected in the initial design.

Important! A simple freehand drawing is better than no documentation at all. Based on it, it is easier to prepare a list of components, materials, tools and other necessary products.

How to insulate the floor, walls and ceiling on the balcony: the choice of materials

If possible, it is better to install insulation outside the walls. This will help move the dew point towards the street. The probability of penetration of moisture into the main building structures will decrease. This will prevent their destruction, the appearance of mold. The available volume of the balcony will be rationally used.

It is easier to carry out installation operations inside on your own. Therefore, only relevant methods will be discussed below. To find out how to insulate a balcony with your own hands with detailed step-by-step photos, instructions, you need to correctly decide on.

Image	Name	Advantages	Flaws
	Expanded clay	Low cost; good filling with granules of complex volumes; maintaining integrity over a long service life; incombustibility.	High moisture permeability, which is accompanied by loss of insulating properties.
	Mineral wool	Durability of state-of-the-art products; resistance to high temperature; high quality butt joints.	Low strength; deterioration of the structure and an increase in thermal conductivity when water enters. These materials must be additionally protected from mechanical damage and increased.
	Styrofoam	Reasonable prices; ease of processing; smooth outer surface; light weight.	Low strength, flammability. To improve resistance to an open flame, special additives are used, but the corresponding materials are more expensive.
	Expanded polystyrene boards	High strength products with a sufficiently high density; ease of installation; resistance to moisture; durability.	Relatively expensive factory-made materials from well-known manufacturers. The difficulty of filling the internal volumes without the formation of empty spaces.
	Polystyrene formed at a construction site from several liquid components	It has all the advantages of plates, but in addition - it fills all the cavities of any shape.	The total cost is higher, since you have to use special equipment.
	Foamed polyethylene with a layer of metal foil (penofol)	Small thickness; long-term preservation of good consumer characteristics; moisture resistance.	High price.

For your information! The insulation system will be effective if you install insulating materials on the outer wall, floor, ceiling.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photo, window installation

Drawing	Description of actions
	Taking into account the peculiarities of a certain balcony, they create a reliable support for the frames. If necessary (as in the picture from the example), additional metal supports are installed. The manufacture of such products is entrusted to a specialized enterprise.
	It is easier to work with frames assembled. They are installed in series. After precise alignment using a building level, the gaps are filled with building foam.
	If it is necessary to install double-glazed windows directly on the object, the glazing beads with seals are inserted carefully. In order not to damage the fragile plastic, use a wooden hammer, damping pads.
	Next install Wooden frames are spoiled by weather and natural influences From polymers create oar and sliding systems, curved and rectangular frames. If necessary, apply coloring, lamination. Article