Instructions for Stroy-Planet JSC, Ufa, Republic of Bashkortostan, on laying and operating paving slabs produced using vibrocompression technology. Paving stone laying technology stage

technology
styling
sidewalk
tiles

1. General information.
Paving slabs - an ideal covering in frosty winters,
it has high strength and low abrasion.
IN last years this tile began to enjoy great
demand.
The tile does not emit harmful volatile substances and does not soften under
scorching sunbeams. filled with sand
tile joints allow excess moisture to seep through after
rain to prevent the formation of puddles.

The main advantages of paving surfaces
tiles:
1.On the surface paving slabs never formed
puddles, as excess water leaves through the gaps between them.
2. Tile coating has a beneficial effect on environmental friendliness
surrounding space without disturbing the need of the grass
in gas exchange.
3. When dismantling or repair work (for example, laying
underground engineering networks) paving slabs easily
removed and, after necessary repairs,
fit again.
4.B summer period time the tile floor heats up
much less than the asphalt surface, with
it does not soften and does not emit volatile gases
and toxins.
5. Decorative coating.

TYPES OF PAVING TILES:
1. Paving slabs. It can be made
from clay of special grades or cement - it is durable
and resistant to various weather conditions and mechanical
impact material.
2. Rubber paving slab is a rubber mass
and a special color filler. This tile is frost-resistant,
does not fade in the sun, easy to maintain and install.

3. Tile based on polymers and sand - is also
product of a new generation, and it is gradually gaining
popularity. This tile is lightweight and durable.
frost-resistant, it is almost impossible to damage.
4. Reinforced paving slabs - manufactured
using iron meshes and concrete. Such coverage
capable of withstanding heavy loads.

5. Granite paving slabs - will solve the problem of paving
for many decades, since it practically does not require
repair. It is a beautiful, durable, eternal material.
Usually the thickness of paving slabs varies within 2060 mm.
The laying pattern for paving slabs can be very simple when
in a certain order, two colors are combined, and complex, with
with which you can create real drawings.

2. Types of tools and devices used.
Guide beacons
Soviet and bayonet shovels
Rule for leveling sand
Grinder-for cutting tiles
Wheelbarrow, stretcher

level
broom, broom
rubber mallet
cord - ordering
roulette
vibrating plate
wooden pegs

3. Types of materials used.
Sand
Paving slabs 50-60 mm thick
Crushed stone fraction 10-20mm; 20-50mm
Border
Cement M400 or M500

4. Organization of labor and workplace.
Paving slabs are laid on a previously prepared
square. High level of end result in more depends on
how the surface was prepared. Soil conditions show what kind, and
how much sand and gravel is required for a solid and reliable foundation with
paving slabs.
When laying paving slabs, 3 units work, consisting of tilers - three people:
* 1 link tiler - 4 categories - 1 person;
tiler - 3 categories - 1 person;
tiler - 2 categories - 1 person.
The link marks the base, removes the soil.
*2 link tiler-4 ranks-1 person
tiler - 3 categories - 1 person;
tiler - 2 categories - 1 person.
Level, compact the sandy base, arrange drainage.
* 3 link tiler 4 category-3 people;
tiler of the 2nd category - 3 people.
Lay the tiles in place, cut the tiles to size, fill with dry
grout the seams between the tiles.

5. Safety precautions.
Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect workplace, put away
unnecessary materials, check the serviceability of tools,
inventory and fixtures.
If you need to sharpen a tool or correct an edge
chopped tiles on a grinder, you must wear
protective glasses. Sorting tiles and other ancillary work
perform in tight gloves, cutting and trimming tiles - in
safety goggles with shatterproof lenses. Trimming and cutting tiles
kneeling is prohibited.
Fulfill tile work using electrical
tools is allowed only in rubber shoes and rubber
gloves. When working with sand, cement and other dusty
materials must protect the eyes and Airways from
dust, have overalls.

6.Technological process"step by step"
1. Layout and layout of the base
To determine the number of tiles and
raw material under the base is necessary
consider site planning
taking into account the location and size of
paths and playgrounds. One of
basic rules for laying paving
tiles is a necessity
arranging paths under a small
slope per meter
5mm so that water is free
departed from them into wells or
lawns.
Next, when the markup is
finished, should be several times
walk along the future path to
understand how comfortable it is
use and is it worth it?
adjust size and position.

For marking the base, stakes, ordering cord are needed
and roulette.
Along the zero line (lines,
to which it will be inclined
playground) is necessary
knock four into the ground
peg and pull between
them a cord on level.
The result is a rectangle marked
cords and lying in the plane of the future site
with paving slabs.

2. Sod excavation to a depth of about 15-20 cm. Soil compaction.
Foundation preparation is a very important step.
Only qualitatively
and properly prepared
won't give a reason
in a further track or
sit down on the platform, so
most will be provided
styling durability.
removed the old
coating (ground) and removed
turf by 15-20 cm, and
-
depressions, pits and hollows -
on the contrary, the soil is poured.

Soil compaction
Rake-leveled base
carefully compacted. At
working with soft ground
preferably before tamping
wet the smooth surface
soil with water. Careful
tamping the base will allow
prevent unevenness and
subsidence of paving slabs.
if you don't have a special
fixtures, then you can ram
improvised means.

3. Installing the curb
To prevent the tile coating from spreading to the sides, it
it is desirable to fix the curbs. We install them on
concrete cushion along the edges of the site or walkway.
Start with preparation
surfaces where
be located curb. For this in
we drive pegs into the ground and
pull the rope along the line
future border. Then you need
dig a trench. Depth
the trench needs a little
exceed the height of the cooked
curb stone. Width
trenches - approximately 20 cm,
for pavement curb

Mix with a spatula
trough sand, cement, water and
crushed stone of fine fraction
proportions of about 2.5:1:2.
The solution is applied to earlier
packed sand.
Now we install the border itself.

4. The device of the crushed stone base
The next stage is the device of a crushed stone base and its
seal.
This material must be
applied evenly in height and
straight with the corresponding
slope and surface markings.
Used to compact gravel
vibrating plate or small
road roller. One place
you need to walk 5-6 times. In progress
sealing rubble need
be sure to wet.

5. Creating a "pillow" of sand.
On the prepared base layer of crushed stone
you can spread the sand, which is not
will only increase the stability of the pavement,
but will also act as a drainage
systems. Dumped sand
must be leveled with a rake and
pour water as long as it
surfaces do not form puddles.
Already after 3-4 hours in the sun
weather "pillow" can be given
smooth even shape with
profile, which is also
an ordinary pipe can protrude or
beam. For surface leveling
sand layer can be used
inch PVC pipes.
Pipes are placed according to the type of rails, the base of the sand is leveled
at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other
rule.
friend.

Carefully
flatten and flatten
sand base.
layer of sand abundantly
wetted with water.
Rammer in sunny
day is made
in about
2-3 hours, and
cloudy weather for
the next day.

5. Preparation of cement-sand layer
- a dry sand-cement mixture is prepared (1:3; 1:5) and poured into
height 3-5cm, mix height can be
regulate with the help of established software
level of lighthouses / metal pipes or
wooden slats/
- poured
dry mix
evenly
distributed over
surfaces
rake.
- rule
make a screed to
even
surfaces.
Get a smooth
strip ready
to styling.

7. Laying tiles using the braided method
Laying is carried out by laying
tiles arranged in pairs
tiles are stacked in two pieces
sideways. . Next couple
laid out in such a way that
center line formed
between them was directed upward.
Before laying it is necessary
execute first
sorting tiles, laying
her piles near
prepared area.
defects: bulge,
concavity, curvature.

Required before installation
pull the cord order along the chamfer. Paving masonry
tiles are best to start from
curb. First row
laid out strictly according to
cord.
Tiles are laid out in the direction
“from oneself”, gradually moving forward
go ahead, you just need to go
laid tiles.
First you need to put
one tile, carefully leveling
it along the marking axes.

Tap rubber tiles
with a hammer, sinking the tile into the ground
to the markup level.
If the tile lays unevenly, you can remove it with a trowel
and pour a layer of cement-sand dry mixture under it and
then tamp again.

It is necessary to level the paving slabs with
using a building level and a rubber
hammer.

The sequence of laying tiles is selected
depending on the type of tile pattern and how it is
styling.

The final cutting and fitting of tiles is best done
at the end of installation.
Tile cutting is done
using a grinder with a diamond
concrete disc.

8.Filling seams
Having laid the tile, we check the site for bulges and
irregularities, for this we use the level.

When laying, gaps are formed between the tiles, which
needs to be filled. It is the process of filling the gaps
and is called sweeping. For sweeping we need
dry sand and cement. They need to be mixed in a ratio of 1 to 6.
The mixture is evenly sprinkled over the tile, and then
swept with a broom several times, filling the seams.
By
completion
work
tiles
watered
water.
From the finished surface, debris and sand residues are swept away.
It is advisable to walk along the paved path no earlier than
2-3 days after installation.

Defects in paving slabs and their causes
appearance.
Individual tiles stick out
or "walk"
Reason was not enough or
unevenly compacted
Tile failures
over large areas
Insufficiently compacted base or
base thickness not respected
Chipped at the edges
tiles
Insufficient seam width
Water collects under tiles
stands "swamp"
No slope or
poor drainage
The tiles are cracking
Poor quality tiles or loads,
exceeding planned

Labour Organization. Floors from ceramic tiles lays a link of facing-tilers. The quantitative and qualification composition of the link depends on the characteristics and nature of the work performed.

Piece by piece laying tiles in the flooring

Two tilers of the 2nd category are engaged in auxiliary operations. One of them sorts, puts it in containers and brings it to the place of laying (Fig. 58). The other prepares the mortar in a mortar mixer, transports the finished mixture in a trolley to the place of laying, unloads it on the base and levels it with a rake.

Rice. 58. Tile Sorting: 1 - unsorted tiles, 2 - template for sorting, 3 - container for sorted tiles

The third cladder of the 3rd category levels the mortar mixture according to the level of the beacons, cleans and moistens the base, installs the beacon rails.

The remaining members of the link - two liners-tilers of the 4th category - are laying out the floor covering, installing beacons, laying tiles on the prepared mortar layer.

Tilers-tilers work on footboards on a widened gripping strip, standing on a freshly laid mortar. Laying tiles using the method of wide grip saves labor costs for the preparation of the mortar layer.

About half an hour before the end of the shift, three tilers of the 2nd and 3rd categories complete the preparatory work and switch to preparing tiles for the next shift, cleaning the base, and cleaning the workplace.

The workplace of the cladding link, laying tiled floors, is organized in accordance with standard schemes (Fig. 59), which graphically depict the location of workers, the location of the necessary mechanisms, inventory, and devices.

Rice. 59. Organization of the workplace of the tiling unit for piece-by-piece laying of tiles: 1 - mortar mixer, 2 - vacuum cleaner, 3 - table for sorting tiles, 4 - leveled mortar layer, 5 - rail-rule, 6 - beacon rail, 7 - trolley with mortar, 8 - control rail, 9 - container with tiles, 10 - lighthouse tiles; О 2 -О 5 - jobs for tilers of the 2nd-5th category

Batch laying tiles using templates performs a link of five people.

Two tilers of the 2nd category on the workpiece table 3 (Fig. 60) sort the tiles and stack them in lattice patterns. The third tiler-tiler of the 2nd category prepares the solution in the mortar mixer 1; the prepared mixture is delivered on a trolley to the place of laying and leveled with a rake.

Rice. 60. Organization of the workplace of the link of tilers during batch laying of tiles: 1 - mortar mixer, 2 - templates with packs of tiles, 3 - blank table for sorting tiles, 4 - vacuum cleaner, 5 - beacon tiles, 6 - beacon rail, 7 - leveled mortar layer, 8 - as a rule, 9 - truck with mortar, 10 - a template with a package of tiles; О 2 -О 4 - jobs for tilers of the 2nd-4th category

The fourth and fifth cladders of the 3rd and 4th categories break down the floor covering, install beacons. The 3rd category facingr levels the mortar layer to the level of the installed beacons. Together they lay the prepared templates with tiles. The 4th grade facing person upsets the template and, if necessary, corrects individual tiles.

A significant amount of work on the installation of floors is performed by a specialized team of tilers, consisting of several units of the same type.

Safety engineering. Prior to the start of work, the tiler-tiler is instructed on safe methods for completing the production task. The facer inspects the workplace, removes unnecessary materials, checks the serviceability of tools, inventory, fixtures, puts on overalls.

The tile installer should wear rubber gloves to protect the skin of the hands from being corroded by the mortar. Sorting tiles and other ancillary work is carried out in tight gloves, cutting and trimming tiles - in safety glasses with safety glasses. Trimming and cutting tiles on the knees is prohibited. Wear rubber gloves and goggles when handling acid. Rooms where freshly laid floors are wiped with hydrochloric acid solution must be ventilated.

When working in darkened rooms (bathrooms, stairwells), temporary lighting should have a voltage of no higher than 42 V.

At the end of the work, the workplace should be put in order, the tools should be cleaned, construction debris should be removed (including containers and packaging from tiles). Compliance with these requirements prevents injuries when laying tiled floors.

INSTRUCTIONS for JSC "Stroy-Planet" Ufa, Republic of Bashkortostan for laying and operating paving slabs produced using vibrocompression technology Our manufacturer - JSC "GlavBashStroy" Combine of reinforced concrete and aerated concrete blocks Production line is presented European equipment MASA Record 9001 (Germany)

2 Used to cover sidewalks, park and pedestrian paths, yards, playgrounds, lining flower beds, flower beds, strengthening slopes and lawns. Physical and mechanical properties of the material: Frost resistance - F300, Abrasion - 0.7 g / cm 2, Specific radioactivity - 72 bq / kg. The production line is equipped with European equipment from MASA Record 9001 (Germany) - one of the leading manufacturers of equipment for reinforced concrete products and stone molding. Production technology - vibrocompression method. The advantages of using paving slabs made by vibrocompression: heavy concrete class B30 used in the manufacture has a low water-cement ratio, which reduces cement consumption, provides high strength and frost resistance, products have a strict geometry of shapes and parallel surfaces, because. all are produced in 1 (one) form (matrix), coating durability (exceeds asphalt concrete pavement, tiles (production by casting technology) several times), the absence of harmful fumes under the influence of sun rays, the level of background radiation is 3 times lower (compared to asphalt pavement). Paving slabs. GOST

3 Preparatory work The quality of the coating device largely depends on proper preparation before the installation step. First of all, it is necessary, with the help of control "beacons", to mark the territory allotted for a path or platform, while taking into account the corners of the territory and observing both longitudinal and transverse slopes. Note that the slopes need to be determined in advance. Arrangement of the base After marking the territory, we proceed to prepare the base, which can be made of sand, crushed stone or concrete, depending on the purpose of the path or site. Arrangement of the base takes place in several stages: Planning. During this stage, you need to remove the top layer of soil, remove the roots of plants and tamp the bottom. Note that in some cases it is necessary to level and compact the bottom using gravel or crushed stone. The result is a kind of bed, which is further filled with materials to organize the base of the track or platform. Drainage and slopes are necessary so that water does not accumulate on the surface. In no case should slopes be directed towards the foundation of the building, since it is thanks to these differences in the height of the coating that most of the rainwater is removed. A smaller part of it goes into the ground through the seams of the surface. For this reason, waterproof materials such as gravel or crushed stone are often used as a bearing drainage layer. Carrier layer. Used as a carrier layer various materials, starting with sand (in the case of laying tiles for pedestrian areas with low traffic) and ending with concrete, which is used for arranging areas with high traffic and problematic soils. Regardless of which material is chosen for the base layer, the following rules must be followed: the thickness of the layer depends on the expected load on the coating: the higher the permeability, the more material will be needed to form the base. With very large loads on the surface, the bearing base is laid in several layers; the carrier layer is laid evenly, but taking into account the slopes; each layer is compacted using a vibrating plate, roller or manual rammer. Laying paving slabs Preparatory work

4 Arrangement of curbs. Curbs or curbs are installed on the M100 mortar in pre-prepared trenches located around the perimeter of the base (in the case of a base of sand or crushed stone). If the bearing layer is made of concrete, then trenches are not required. Also note that curbs and borders reach half the height of tiles or paving stones. Laying a sand or cement-sand layer under the paving stones. This stage cannot be avoided if materials such as sand or gravel act as a supporting base. In the first case, the additional sandy layer acts as a continuation of the sandy base. In the second case, the layer laid directly under the tiles or paving stones is a dry mixture of cement and sand. However, regardless of the material of which the leveling layer consists, the following recommendations should be observed: first, it is necessary to set the guide rails in accordance with all slopes and fix them; the underlying layer is leveled using the rule so that it is about 1 cm above the level of the tile. This is done so that the tile remains at the intended level after leveling the coating and slight subsidence of sand or cement-sand mixture; in order to obtain a flat surface, subsequently the leveling slats must be removed and the resulting pits filled with sand or a dry mixture. At this stage of preparation of the base ends. Additional recommendations before starting work on laying tiles Naturally, there is no point in laying paving slabs "by eye": you first need to pull the cord along the entire length and width of the site. This will allow you to accurately observe the geometric lines of seams and slopes. We recommend checking the location of the joints every 2-3 rows of laid tiles. Laying should start from a low point to a higher one or from some important exterior element (for example, from the main entrance). You can level the tile with a rubber mallet or a vibrating plate if the tile lies above the set level. It is also allowed to add a dry mixture or sand under the coating if the tile has sunk lower after laying. It is worth noting that the surface is considered flat if the deviations are 0.5 - 1 cm for every 2 meters. If necessary, the additional device, the tile can be cut with a grinder saw equipped with a special diamond-coated saw blade. This will make it possible to obtain material of the required dimensions without special labor and financial costs: on an object with an area of up to 100 m 2, up to two disks are consumed on average. Laying paving slabs Preparatory work

The tool required for laying work: shovels and bayonet shovels, paving cutter, grinder with diamond discs for cutting paving stones, a vibrating plate with an overlay, a rule for leveling sand and a sieve, a wheelbarrow, a stretcher, guides, a level, a leveling cord, a brush, a rubber mallet, a water supply hose. 1. Prepare the bed by removing the top layer of soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk or platform. At the same time, it is very important to remove the roots of plants in order to prevent their germination and to compact the bottom. 2. Pour sand into the prepared bed with a layer of cm and carefully level it with a rule or a rake, taking into account the slopes for water flow (at least 0.5 - 1 cm per meter). 3. Pour the base liberally with water from a watering can or hose, observing a minimum water consumption of 10 liters per square meter. 4. Tamp the sandy base with a manual tamper to avoid subsidence of the base during the operation of the sidewalk (Fig. 2). Rice. 2 For pedestrian and light traffic areas. The type of laying is recommended for private properties, cottage settlements, courtyard areas 5 Pic. 1

Fig In order to install the curbs, dig trenches of the required depth along the edges of the base. Plant the curbs on the M100 mortar, subsequently pouring them with concrete and filling them with sand. (Fig.3) 6. Lay the tiles according to the chosen laying method, leaving small gaps of 0.5 - 0.7 cm. To ensure even masonry, use vibratory plates and heavy rubber mallets if the tile is above the required level. If, on the contrary, it is lower, then additional sand can be poured under one or more stones. 8.Fill gaps between tiles with sifted sand or dry mix. The easiest way to do this is to pour sand onto the pavement and use a brush to move it over the entire surface. (Fig. 4) 9. Remove excess dry mix or sand with a gentle stream of water. At the same time, pay attention to the fact that the filler is not washed out of the gaps. Remove any remaining dirt and residue from the pavement surface with a brush and the installation is complete. Rice. 3

1. Prepare the bed by removing the top layer of soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk or platform. At the same time, it is very important to remove the roots of plants in order to prevent their germination and to compact the bottom. 2. Pour crushed stone into the prepared bed with a layer of cm and carefully level it, taking into account the slopes for water flow (at least 0.5 - 1 cm per meter). 3. Compact the crushed stone with a manual rammer (Fig. 6) 4. In order to install the curbs, dig trenches of the required depth along the edges of the base. Plant the curbs on the M100 mortar, subsequently pouring them with concrete and filling them with sand (Fig. 7). 6 Fig. 7 7 Recommended for areas with moderate traffic and car parking. Laying is carried out on a crushed stone base with a dry mix Fig. 5

5. On top of the crushed stone, pour a cement-sand mixture with a layer of 5 - 10 cm. If, according to the plan, it is necessary to install a reinforcing mesh, then lay it (Fig. 8) 5 - 0.7 cm. 7. When laying, use a level regularly, not forgetting also the slopes. To ensure even masonry, use vibratory plates and heavy rubber mallets if the tile is above the required level. If, on the contrary, it is lower, then additional dry mix can be poured under one or more stones (Fig. 9). 8 Fig. 9 8

8. Plentifully spill the pavement with plenty of water and wait for the path to dry completely, then proceed to fill the cracks between the tiles with a dry mixture. (Fig. 10) 9. Pour the track again, making sure that the filler does not wash out of the gaps. 10.To prevent the solution from hardening on the surface, remove its excess. Make sure the pavement is completely free of grout and the grout is filled with grout. (Fig. 11) Laying is completed, the coating is ready for use. Rice. 10 Fig. 11 9

1. Prepare the bed by removing the top layer of soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future sidewalk or platform. At the same time, it is very important to remove the roots of plants in order to prevent their germination and to compact the bottom. 2. Pour rubble into the prepared bed with a layer of cm and carefully level it. 3.Tamp the crushed stone with a manual rammer (Fig.13) 4.Install the formwork along the edges of the future sidewalk or platform, taking into account that the boards should be more than 4 cm thick. Note that the boards are fixed with stakes located at a distance of 60 - 100 cm from each other. (Fig.14) Fig. Recommended for the installation of blind areas, areas and areas with high traffic and load, also with problematic soils. Fitting is done on concrete base Rice. 12 Fig. 13

5. Fill the crushed stone with a layer of concrete 5 - 15 cm. For greater strength of the base, reinforcement with a road mesh is used. In this case, first lay the mortar in a layer of 3 cm and place reinforcing material on it, then pour it with concrete. It is also worth noting here that with a large laying area, it is recommended to leave expansion joints (0.5 cm) every 3 meters. Thus, you can protect the concrete base from cracking in winter. (Fig.15) 5.After the concrete has been placed, final level the surface taking into account the level of the base and slopes. (Fig.16) Fig. 15 Rice

7. Reinforce the curbs on the M100 mortar, subsequently spilling them with concrete and filling with sand (Fig. 17) 8. Having previously moistened the base, lay the tiles on a cement-sand screed, the layer of which should be 1 - 3 cm. (Fig. 18) 9. In order to protect against cracking, close the expansion joints with an elastic filler. 10.Carefully fill the gaps between the tiles with grout or mortar, being careful not to get the mortar on the face of the stones. If, however, this happened, then immediately remove the excess solution. The laying of tiles is completed, after 48 hours the coating is ready for use. Rice. 17 Rice

The pavement does not require any special care or special cleaning equipment. When laying paving slabs in urban areas, it is recommended to wash the surface every 2-3 days, in high traffic conditions - daily. On the territory of their own possessions, cottage or country house paving slabs will look neat when washed with water once a week. With the help of soapy water, a mop and a stream of clean water, you can easily get rid of any natural dirt on the surface of the coating. Attention should be paid to the following features of maintenance and operation of the coating: 1. In order to avoid damage to a flat surface, it is not recommended to drive vehicles along the pedestrian zone with a paving slab laying thickness of up to 6.0 cm. requires additional reinforcement with a concrete base (see part 3 of this document) 3. To clear snow and ice in autumn and winter period it is contraindicated to use metal shovels, crowbars and other metal piercing and cutting tools, this can damage the surface of the coating. 4. In order to avoid erosion of the pavement surface, it is not recommended to use: abrasive mixtures, mixtures containing salt to remove ice. In this case, it is recommended to use ordinary river sand. 5. To give the surface of the coating gloss, brightness and color saturation, treatment with special water-repellent compositions is recommended. They give the surface water-repellent properties and protect the concrete from water, water vapor and salt solutions, as well as organic solvents. 13 Pavement: care and maintenance

Before purchasing a paving surface, you should decide on several points. Composition of the batch: 1. Purpose of the coverage area (pedestrian zone, parking, pedestrian zone and traffic of cars, etc.) 2. Desired pattern, shape of the tile and color solution drawing, composition, combination with the landscape. 3. The composition of the composition and the need for additions, the presence of borders and drains, the dimensions of the site, etc. 4. We remind you that during the laying process, when cutting to size, some of the tiles will go to waste. The amount of such waste depends on the shape, size of the surface to be tiled, installation method (for example, the diagonal installation method produces more waste than the parallel installation method). Keep a few spare tiles in stock in case you need to replace something or need minor repairs. Taking into account the waste, it is recommended to purchase a coating area 5-7% larger than the area of the surface to be coated. ( The best option will purchase for 2 sq. there is more area, because in case of an erroneous calculation or a desire to make a replacement, the tone of the new batch of goods may not exactly match your palette). Color palette: 1. The original color of the concrete tile depends on the dye used, is determined at the request of the buyer and is agreed upon during the sale (this criterion is not a characteristic of GOST). 2. During operation, a change in the color of a concrete tile / surface (fading) is not a criterion defined by the requirements of GOST. The drying of the tiles occurs gradually and unevenly - the alignment of the color occurs during its operation. 14 Note to the Buyer

Salting out of concrete*: During use, lime stains may appear on the surface of the tile. This is due to the natural process of salting out concrete. This process does not reduce the strength characteristics of the tiles and can only affect the aesthetic appearance of colored products. The efflorescence process reaches its maximum after a year of operation and comes to naught two years after the start of operation. The disappearance of efflorescence is due to the fact that calcium carbonate on the concrete surface enters into a slow reaction with carbon dioxide dissolved in water and turns into a water-soluble bicarbonate, which is washed off by precipitation or in the process of washing the surface. The paving slab coating has an increased resistance to aggressive environments. So solutions of acid, alkali and other chemically active compounds, when they hit the surface of the coating, do not change its structure, which makes it possible to use paving slabs on the territory filling stations and other areas of work with aggressive agents. Replacement and repair work: Paving slabs manufactured by JSC "GlavBashStroy" are distinguished by their durability and resistance to wear due to advanced technology for the production of products - the vibrocompression method. In high traffic areas, heavily abraded tiles are easily and simply replaced without the need to completely re-lay the entire coating, leaving its integrity and reducing maintenance costs * Lime stains occur on the concrete surface due to the formation of free lime when cement sets, dissolving in water, it comes to the surface of concrete through capillary pores, forms an insoluble compound in the form of a whitish coating - calcium carbonate CaCO3. 15

Send your good work in the knowledge base is simple. Use the form below

Students, graduate students, young scientists who use the knowledge base in their studies and work will be very grateful to you.

Posted on http://www.allbest.ru

1. Determination of the quality of the existing surface layer before laying paving slabs

A carefully prepared base for the paving, along with the quality of the tile itself, is the key to a long service life of the sidewalk.

First you need to decide on the elevations. Slopes should be thought out in such a way that all water, as organized as possible, is diverted from buildings and structures to places intended for receiving rainwater. It is necessary to correctly provide for the installation locations of the trays, because even with the correct slopes, but with a drain outside the tray, along the tiled canvas, in winter there may be problems in these areas with the formation of ice.

Substrate preparation should begin by determining the quality of the existing surface layer. It can be from the category that falls under the mandatory removal, or the existing layer can be left and the base for the tile prepared on top of it. It is advisable, of course, in your particular case, to consult with a specialist, but speaking roughly, we can give the following recommendations for the existing surface layer.

An existing layer is removed if:

There are problems with elevations (problems with closing doors, water drainage, etc.);

The existing surface layer contains vegetation (grass) as the likelihood that it will grow through the tiled canvas increases;

Soil disturbed for less than two years. Digging is a must! if not eliminated, serious failures and subsidence of tiles are possible.

There is no need to remove an existing layer if:

It's sand;

Soil in a compacted state;

Crushed stone, construction debris in a compacted state that does not require planning, does not create problems with water drainage.

If it is still necessary to excavate the soil, then these works should be mechanized as much as possible. This will help reduce the cost of work, although initially it may seem otherwise. During excavation, care must be taken not to remove excess soil. This may affect the overspending of crushed stone or sand. It is impossible to fill up the excavated soil back.

Elevation marks and slopes of the tiled canvas. Site marking for laying.

A carefully prepared base for the paving, along with the quality of the tile itself, is the key to a long service life of the sidewalk.

Work on the preparation of underlying layers for paving slabs should begin with a competent approach to determining elevations and marking the future tile canvas.

Take height marks for large volumes and areas of laying, as well as when laying along difficult terrain best with a level. If we are talking about landscaping the territory of a cottage, office or store, it is quite possible to cope with a hydraulic level or with the help of twine and a regular level. A level is a construction tool used by builders. They know their business and there is no need to explain how to use it. But if you decide to do the laying with your own hands, then most likely you do not have a level. Options with a hydraulic level or nylon twine are suitable for you

When using the hydraulic level, almost everything is clear. If you remember school course physics, you know that the mirror of water in communicating vessels, which is the hydro level, is always at the same mark. If one flask of the hydro level is placed by the level of the water surface to a certain elevation mark, and the other is taken to a certain distance and a notch is made in the same way along the level of the water surface, then the elevation marks will coincide

You can do it in the following way. Take a piece of nylon twine or fishing line with a diameter of ~ 0.8mm, pull it between two marks and fasten it. Then take the usual level 0.5m-1m long and carefully bring it parallel to the twine so that it barely touches both ends of the nylon twine without touching it. Once the level is in position, that's when you look at the level reading and infer the slope.

2. Marking the area for laying paving stones

Before starting work, it is necessary to mark the future sidewalks and determine the necessary elevations. If your work is carried out by specialists, and you have a plan for your improvement, then we can say that you already have everything you need. Qualified specialists, qualitatively and competently perform marking on the ground and transfer the elevation marks of the surface of the future sidewalk to the terrain.

But if you plan to do the landscaping on your own, then in this case you must first think over everything and follow the proverb: "Measure seven times, cut one."

Prepare pegs 50 cm long. They can be either wooden or metal. Pegs should be driven into the ground at the corners of the site for laying and at the turns of the sidewalk and sidewalk paths. When all these points are marked, we move on to the very important point- the choice of elevations.

Height marks.

The main task of sidewalk paths and squares, in addition to the aesthetic load, is to drain rainwater from their surfaces, so the choice of elevations can be conditionally called: water drainage from the "FROM" point to the "TO" point

"DO" is the place or places where rainwater will be discharged. It can be: a lawn, a gutter, a moat, etc. That is, places where rainwater will not interfere with anyone. It is impossible to divert rainwater into city sewer systems.

With the "OT" point, you need to think a little. It can be, for example, the maximum height of the tile sheet, at which the doors will close without problems, even in winter, taking into account ice, etc. It is necessary to dance in the choice of this point naturally knowing the point "TO". The "FROM" point must be higher than the "TO" point. A slope of at least 1 cm in height per 1 meter of length (1:100) is considered normal. The tiled canvas, after laying, whether we like it or not, is subjected to deformations (that is, it is bent). With high-quality styling and production of all necessary earthworks, these deformations are minimal and the indicated slope guarantees the removal of water from the paving bed.

If the condition t. "FROM"-> MINIMUM SLOPE (1:100)-> t. (The slope in this case should not be less than the specified).

If compliance with this condition is impossible, then it is necessary to reconsider the directions of the slopes and it may be possible to organize a withdrawal to other places. Sometimes it helps to remove excess soil. Sometimes, a breakdown of a complexly organized rainwater drainage into simpler components, but in any case, it is imperative to maintain a minimum slope.

Preparation of the base for laying paving slabs.

Underlayment layers.

After marking and taking out elevation marks behind, let's move on to one of the most significant issues. Underlayment preparation.

The underlayment is bulk materials in a compacted state, which are located between the existing soil and the tile. This is usually: Crushed stone, Sand, Cement-sand mixture. The underlayment serves two purposes:

Conclusion of elevation marks for the given values;

Protection of the pavement from heaving of the soil in winter.

The structure of the underlying layer (from top to bottom):

Tiles (thickness - 6 cm)

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - up to 20 cm);

existing soil.

There are certain technologies for the device of the underlying layers (from top to bottom):

Option 1. For complex cases (truck traffic, problems with existing soils):

Cement mortar (thickness - 3 cm);

Reinforced concrete (thickness - 10-15 cm);

Option-2. For passenger cars:

Cement-sand mixture (CPS) (thickness - 3 cm);

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - 20 cm).

Option-3. For footpaths:

Cement-sand mixture (CPS) (thickness - 3 cm);

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - 10 cm).

The choice of technology should be determined by the requirements that will be imposed on the tiled canvas in the future, during operation. If the sidewalk is intended for the passage of pedestrians, then there is no need for concreting according to option No. 1. These are unnecessary and unjustified costs. And vice versa, if the soils are prone to subsidence, then by arranging the underlying layer for the passage of cars, according to option 2, you will get problems with the sidewalk and a headache in the future. It is advisable to entrust the choice of a particular technology to a specialist, especially since there are often combined options when several technologies are used at one facility (for sidewalk paths - option-3, for the passage of passenger vehicles - option-2, etc.). In this case, the laying costs will be optimal.

Mention should also be made of the cheapest version of the tile base. We are talking about laying paving slabs only on sand. In my opinion, this option deserves attention and is quite reliable with the appropriate approach. It must meet the following conditions:

1) Existing soil must be natural perennial compaction!!!

2) Do not allow sand to wash out from under the tiles. To do this, all joints between the curbs are smeared with a solution, especially from the inside;

3) The drainage of rainwater must be carried out in an organized manner, strictly along the trays, which, in turn, must be installed on the solution.

If these three conditions are met, the paving slab will serve you as long as if the laying technology is observed, but the cost of the work in the complex will be much less.

Consider the components of the underlying layer.

It is used both granite and lime, fractions 20-40. Where this fraction is large, i.e. elevation marks do not allow its use, a fraction of 5-20 is used. The use of sludge significantly reduces the cost of the underlying layer.

According to the technology, it is used for the device of the upper leveling layer. You can use any sand, but without the content of clay particles and stones.

Cement-sand mixture.

Ratio 1:8. Mix thoroughly, preferably in a mortar mixer. Cement M500. Prepared in volume based on daily output. The undeveloped DSP the next day becomes unusable.

The installation of the underlying layer should be carried out in layers, approximately 10 cm each, with obligatory layer-by-layer tamping with mechanical vibrating plates, or they should be spilled with water. Experience shows that pouring is effective even with thicker layers. Water also reaches places that are difficult to access or even inaccessible to vibrating plates (various connections).

3. Technology of laying paving slabs

Tiled canvas, visually can be divided into the following categories.

By color:

1) One-color (from tiles of the same color);

2) Multicolor (from a tile of two or more colors).

Seam direction:

1) Chaotic (no patterns);

2) Unidirectional (the seam is clearly visible in one or more directions);

3) Radial (seams go in circles or radial curvatures).

Having determined your styling option and color scheme, you need to bind it to the surrounding objects. Binding is carried out to the inputs and outputs. The priority, of course, is the central entrance to the building. Your next priorities are up to you. There is such a thing as "cutting tiles" in laying. Cut the tile in those places where its shape does not allow it to take the appropriate place. An example is the distortion of the geometric dimensions of a building, and this is actually not uncommon. The trimmed tile does not look very pretty compared to the whole one, but this is a normal action and many objects simply cannot do without it. As a rule, there is no rigid binding to the sections of the sidewalk where there must be trimming, and where it should not be. You yourself can shift the stacking axes in order to shift the trimming in one direction or another. Depending on this, the trimming areas will also change. Of course, trimming may not be, for example, on pavement paths, where knowing the width at which the tile will become without trimming between your borders, you run the entire length of the track with this size. Above, I started talking about laying priorities precisely with the aim that you could determine for yourself the parts of the sidewalk to which you can transfer the trim and where it will not be evident, and to which the transfer of the trim is very undesirable, such as the main entrance to the building .

Now let's move on to the description of the process of laying paving slabs. There are several technologies for laying paving slabs, but consider the most common of them: laying paving slabs along guides. We mean that all the previous stages of marking and preparing the base have already been completed.

To get started, you will need at least: an assistant - 1 person, a shovel, nylon twine or thread or fishing line, the level is 3m, the guides are a square pipe 25x40 or similar round, at least 3 pieces of 3 meters each, level 1m, bucket, trowel, rubber mallet, whisk, vibrating plate (if possible).

Connect the height marks placed on the pegs around the perimeter with nylon twine, you will get the top marks of your future tiled canvas.

THE MAIN RULE OF LAYING: By connecting, mentally or with a thread, any point of a nylon twine stretched between pegs with known height marks on one side, with any other point of the second stretched twine, between other pegs with other known height marks, you get the top of the future sidewalk! This is the most important thing to remember. If you are in doubt about elevation anywhere on your future sidewalk, just use this rule.

Take for example any rectangular area for laying. Further, everything is carried out according to the standard scheme: Laying is done in "stripes". The width of the strip is 3 meters (according to the size of your rule), and the length, from one stretched twine on one side of the site, to the opposite, on the other. This way you get the heights of the beginning of the strip and its end. Using the main laying rule, stretch three parallel threads along the entire length of the strip, at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. Starting from one side of the strip, lay one pipe under each of the three stretched threads. You know the thickness of the tile and you use a tape measure, or directly deepen the tile, or vice versa, raise the pipe so that the top of the tile on the pipe touches the stretched thread. For each of the pipes, a size equal to the thickness of the tile is measured in two places, at the beginning of the pipe and at the end. Having done this action with three pipes, you get, at the mark of the top of the pipes, the elevation of your underlying layer.

Using a shovel, add or vice versa, cut off excess sand. Then add cement-sand to a level slightly above the height of the exposed pipes. If you cut, then do not try to remove it perfectly with a shovel. This is not needed now. If you add - then, accordingly, it is better to pour a little more. Then ram the base well again without knocking down the pipes. paving stones tiled

Next, with an assistant, take the rule and leaning the rule on 3 pipes at the same time, moving it left-right, and a little bit towards you, carefully cut off the excess. As a result, you should get a flat surface with three pipe surfaces visible from the mixture.

Carefully remove the pipes. In the niches left from them, pour the cement-sand mixture and, walking along them with "ant" steps, as the children say, ram these strips with your weight. Take a level of 1m and, as if covering your tracks, level the area to the end.

As a result, you get a flat area of 3m x 3m. Ready for laying paving slabs.

Further, on this site, relative to the chosen axis and in accordance with the chosen option and the color scheme of laying, lay out the tiles, tapping each one as necessary. For professionals, 1 hit per 1 tile is enough) After completing a small area, check the correct installation. To do this, measure the dimensions from the axis to the extreme tiles. And if the canvas "leaves", by hitting the ends of the extreme tiles, you are trying to bring the dimensions into line. If the error is detected out of time and the area of the laid tile is large, then the chances of correcting it still remain. To do this, take a trowel and from the middle to the edge, if you need to reduce the gaps in the seams, or vice versa, from the edge to the middle, if you need to increase it, move the tiles in order.

Thus, by laying one or more platforms with dimensions of 3m x 3m, you get a certain laid area. It cannot be left overnight in this form, since the cement-sand mixture, under the action of moisture, will seize and the tile will “jump” in height. This will be hard enough to fix. To do this, using the same trowel, eliminate the unevenness of the seams. It is convenient to do this by stretching every few rows, usually three rows, an additional thread and align the seam along this thread with a trowel.

Having completed the alignment of the seams, take ordinary dry sand, scatter it over the entire area in a thin layer and sweep it with a whisk at the seams. Thus, you prepare the site for punching. Take a vibrating plate (necessarily with a rug) and break through your site. Under the blows of the vibrating plate, the tile is leveled in height, and the sand wakes up between the seams. Then sprinkle more sand if this is not enough and repeat the procedure a few more times until the seams are filled to the top.

If you do not have a vibrating plate, then take an even bar 50x50 about 70 cm long, put it horizontally on the areas where you can see that the tile is "jumping" and use a hammer to level the tile in height. If there are no gaps under the bar, then the goal has been achieved. The procedure is more laborious, but without it, nowhere. The seams, in turn, can be shed with water, but not with a jet that can wash everything away, but from a watering can, for example.

To lay paving slabs on garden paths, you must follow the steps below:

1. Marking the site.

Before laying paving slabs, it is necessary to prepare the base. Draw the layout of the area to be paved. Based on the size of the plot, calculate required amount tiles for laying with a margin for undercutting, at least 5-10% of the paving area. To minimize undercutting, the calculated width of the side of the paving area, excluding the thickness of the curb, should be a multiple of 15 cm + 1 cm of the joint on each side of the site. Mark the subgrade of the site, taking into account the slope for water flow. Water should go from the path to the drainage wells, to the lawns. The slope can be made longitudinal, transverse, longitudinal-transverse, but not less than five millimeters per meter of coverage. Please note: the trench under the area to be covered with tiles should be 40-50 cm wider than the area itself. This is necessary for installing the curb stone.

2. Preparation of the base.

Over the entire area of the trench, remove the vegetative layer of soil, being careful not to damage the compacted main soil. The last stage of soil sampling must be carried out manually. In some cases, tamping the bottom of the trench may be effective. The required (calculated) depth of the trench is 27 cm. The fertile layer must be completely removed to dense soil (loam, sandy loam, etc.). If the depth of the trench after sampling the fertile layer exceeds the calculated one, compensate for the difference in height by backfilling with sand.

3. The device of the base under the curb.

Inside the trench on the sides, dig grooves for the curb 24 cm wide and 5 cm deep. Level and tamp the surface of the grooves. To prevent root growth and deformation roadbed, cover the leveled soil of the entire trench with geotextile, if necessary, this can be done with an overlap (at least 10 cm). Then fill the grooves under the curb with sand and tamp. If you use dry sand, it must be spilled with water. Install the formwork and pour a concrete base 24 cm wide and 15 cm high. The recommended concrete class is B22.5 (M300).

4. Installation of a curbstone.

Curbstones are installed on a freshly poured concrete base. After their installation, a concrete clip is arranged in the formwork to a height of 10 cm from the outside and 5 cm from the inside. The curb must be installed at least one day before the start of paving slab laying, so that the concrete of the clip gains sufficient strength.

5. Foundation device and tiling.

The base is covered with several layers. The first layer consists of crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm or 20-40 mm. The thickness of the layer after compaction should be 15 cm. Compact the crushed stone with a vibrating plate or a manual rammer. The second layer consists of a cement-sand mixture. Immediately before laying the tiles, fill the base with a freshly prepared cement-sand mixture. The height of the layer of the mixture, taking into account its compaction, is 8 cm. The recommended cement-sand ratio is 1: 3. Moisten the mixture to the state of wet sand (about 3 liters of water per 50 kg of cement). To harden the cement-sand mixture, it is desirable to use a plasticizing additive. Stir the mixture well until smooth. Prepare the mixture as it develops.

After backfilling, level the mixture with a rake. Tiles are laid on the poured and leveled cement-sand mixture, immediately, without waiting for it to set. Before laying, lay out 1-2 m2 of paving slabs separately, check the color match and the ratio of the elements. The adjacent arrangement of several elements of the same size is not recommended. Adjacent arrangement of two small elements (with a side of 15 cm), adjacent mutually perpendicular arrangement of two rectangular elements one size. Also pay attention to the interruption of the seams. Try to minimize the length of the seams. Joints longer than 2 m (with the exception of the expansion joint) are undesirable. Trimming may be required at the junctions. If necessary, the protrusions along the edges of one or more tiles can be carefully beaten off or cut off with a grinder with a stone disc. Select paving slabs from several pallets at the same time.

This is necessary to ensure an even distribution of shades. Try to avoid clusters of dark or light tiles; if necessary, contrasting clusters are easily “broken” by replacing several tiles of the opposite tone. Apply White Hills Extra Adhesive to the back with a notched trowel immediately before installing the tiles to improve adhesion to the substrate. Prepare the adhesive solution in accordance with the instructions on the package. Paving slabs should be rammed into the cement-sand mixture with a rubber mallet. The level can be controlled by a stretched string. After laying out, if the mixture or glue gets on the surface of the tile, clean it. Cover the paving area with plastic wrap so that it does not touch the surface of the tile.

6. Filling the seams.

Start filling the joints no earlier than 72 hours after the cement-sand mixture and adhesive mortar have set. During this time, the load on the tiles should be excluded. Clean the seams well, if necessary, remove excess glue. The minimum thickness of the grout is 10 mm. Moisten the tiles in the area of the joint before grouting. This will make it easier to clean the surface of the tile from the grout. Prepare the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. The seams between the tile and the curb are filled with a waterproof grout, using a polyethylene bag, ensuring a continuous and complete filling of the width of the seam. The height of the joint should be 0.5 - 1 cm) below the level of the tile. Wait 40-60 minutes for the grout to set. After that, with a damp sponge, remove excess grout from the surface of the tile and grout. Do not allow prolonged (more than 2 hours) contact of the solution with the front surfaces of the plates, otherwise the cleaning of the plates will be difficult.

Hosted on Allbest.ru

Laying paving slabs on a monolithic base

This technology is very costly and requires a lot of additional work processes, but it is necessary if high and intense loads on the sidewalk are expected, because the rammed bulk base is not able to perceive them.

The essence of the technology is to create a kind of platform that will not be susceptible to problem soils that bulge, sag and deform in every possible way, and will also evenly distribute the load from the operation of the sidewalk.

In this case, there is only one way of laying - laying paving slabs on the mortar, while there are several options regarding the surface:

laying paving slabs on concrete; laying paving slabs on asphalt.

There are many norms and rules regarding loads on a concrete base, they are all calculated according to SNiP (building codes and rules) - concrete grade, reinforcement class and diameter, etc., etc., let's consider the main options for a private suburban arrangement.

Laying paving slabs on concrete involves not just on a concrete pad, but on a whole reinforced plate, 10 cm thick with a reinforcing mesh frame with a 10x10 cm cell of reinforcement, preferably A400C with a diameter of 10 mm or more.

The plate may have a more complex reinforcement structure and a greater thickness of the concrete layer.

Such coverage is provided on unstable soils, as well as in places of constant high and intense loads, the most elementary example of such a case is parking lots.

It is clear that the laying of concrete paving slabs in a private suburban area on a layer of concrete is most often a bedding of rammed gravel, on which a 10 cm concrete pad with 6 mm reinforcement is laid. The tile itself is laid out on a 2 cm layer of cement-sand mortar (the higher the concrete strength grade, the better).

Laying paving slabs on asphalt according to technology as such is not provided, it is performed if the old asphalt pavement(in a private house) it was decided to replace it, but the owners do not want to dismantle it.

In this case, it is necessary to remove the areas that do not hold well and pour them concrete mortar(under the asphalt there is, as a rule, a crushed stone embankment). In addition, it is necessary to level the pits, “open cracks” and also fill them with concrete.

If there is asphalt, then it is better for them to “patch” the old coating, in short, to carry out ordinary repairs, as roads are patched. Such a base for laying paving slabs must be cleaned of dirt and dust with water from a hose, after which you can proceed to laying a couple of cm on the solution layer.

Instructions for Stroy-Planet JSC, Ufa, Republic of Bashkortostan, on laying and operating paving slabs produced using vibrocompression technology. Paving stone laying technology stage - Grouting of paving slabs

Send your good work in the knowledge base is simple. Use the form below

1. Determination of the quality of the existing surface layer before laying paving slabs