The tiler will complete the work on time if he has a convenient and reliable tool in his arsenal. Today we will analyze what a master tiler cannot do without, what minimum tools he should have in his suitcase.

  1. Rubber mallet. It is needed to clean voids under the tiles when laying them.
  2. Master OK.
  3. Spatula with teeth. Tile with sides of about 30 centimeters will need teeth, 10 millimeters long, and for tiles with sides of about 20 centimeters, teeth, 4 millimeters long, will do.
  4. Ladle of Shaulsky. Helps to quickly throw plaster on the wall.
  5. Scraper. Helps with the dismantling of old tiles, also helps to remove adhesive from the screed.
  6. A set of crosses. Each type of tile is selected individually. Crosses 1-2 mm are usually suitable for walls, 2-3 mm for floors.
  7. Carrying. It is advisable to have your own carrier at the facility, sometimes sockets in the apartment are located far away and it will be inconvenient to connect to them. As a rule, this is a triple carrier, 30 meters long. Carrying with a pair of lamps of 500 watts does not hurt.
  8. Construction knife.
  9. Markers and pencils.
  10. Primer roller.

Optional equipment

It is not a fact that you will need these tools, but it is advisable to have them in your arsenal just in case.

  • Measuring tape and level.
  • Squares. It is advisable to have about two squares in your arsenal. One small one for marking holes. As a rule, they are made of chrome-plated material, rarely painted. Large squares are used to mark the floor.
  • Marking cord. Allows you to mark a line between objects.
  • Water or laser level. If you often lay plaster, then having a level with a laser will simplify your life and make your work easier.
  • The long level is one and a half and two meters long. Needed for the final check of the result of the work.

Mixer

If you have a constant flow of laying work, it is advisable to buy a separate mixer. And for one-time work, a perforator with a special nozzle in the form of a whisk will do, it is also possible to mix everything manually.

In the mixer, the gearbox is responsible for the rotation, which reduces the load on the electric motor and ensures the ideal rotation speed. The mixer also has a larger mixer, thanks to which we get the ability to mix large volume liquids.

Not only foreign mixers work well and for a long time, the domestic product also pleased with the excellent quality of equipment and the price of these mixers is more democratic. Also, with the help of a mixer, you can drill tiles, you just need to change the drill.

tile cutter

A tool for cutting tiles. There are two types:

  • Amateur.
  • Professional.

The main disadvantages of an amateur tile cutter:

  • Tile width restrictions.
  • Weak mechanism, it is not always possible to cut thick tiles.
  • It is not possible to cut two tiles identically because the cutting wheel has a lot of play.

Professional tile cutters are more expensive than their counterparts, but their price justifies the quality of the cut. If you professionally lay tiles, then this purchase will pay off with interest. Good tile cutters are made in Austria and Italy.

An important point. The cutting element is enough for 800-1000 square meters tiles. If you lay about 100-200 square meters per month, then it will be enough for exactly a year of work. After that, thick tiles or porcelain tiles cannot be cut with this tile cutter, but it will fit for cutting soft tiles.

Bulgarian

One of the most important tools in a tiler's arsenal at the level of a mixer and a tile cutter.

If we consider inexpensive options, then a Makita 9554 grinder is perfect, the price varies from 2-3 thousand rubles. This model has a small handle, because of this they have low power.

Of the expensive options, a grinder with a Hilti AG 125-A22 battery is suitable, at a price of about 26 thousand rubles. Very powerful, has a comfortable handle, so you can hold it with one hand.

Discs for grinders should be taken only with diamond coating, designed to work on tiles. It happens that consultants do not know about these, and mistakenly recommend circles for concrete or stone. Porcelain stoneware wheels are absolutely smooth, without holes and without notches on the cutting part, which minimizes the number of chips.

wire cutters

This is an additional tool for the tiler. Needed if it is difficult to break off the tile at the place of the cut.

The main types of tile cutters:

  • Nippers with surfacing. The hard cutting part on the wire cutters is not a necessary element, because you need to break off the tiles at the place of the cut, which makes the job easier.
  • Nippers-parrots. Help to make a hole for the socket in the tile.

What you need to have for grouting:

  • Bucket.
  • Putty knife.
  • Latex gloves. Keep your hands from touching the mixture.
  • Felt mitt or grater. It is very easy to remove the plaque that the grout leaves.
  • Grater - washcloth. Helps remove hardened grout. It is especially important to use this tool when working in the hot season, when quick-drying grout is used.
  • Foam sponge and bucket for water. Needed for final grinding of seams.

Litokol has a couple of grouting tools.

  • Avana sponge for removing dried grout. This sponge has large pores. Foam rubber can also be used instead. The large size of the sponge allows you to clean a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe tile at once. But it will need to be rinsed for a long time and thoroughly, otherwise the grout will dry out and the sponge will become unusable.
  • Bath for grout cleaning. Exist different kinds this tool. But Skipper baths are best suited. They are made of high strength plastic and have a large volume. There are two rollers on the tub for spinning. It comes with a highly absorbent sponge.

This set is convenient, but takes up too much space.

Means for protection

Safety plays one of the main roles in the performance of any work, especially when there are stabbing and cutting tools in the arsenal. Basic means of protection:

  • Protective glasses. Always work only in protective glasses, especially when in the hands of a grinder. Fine dust or chips from tiles can easily fly into your eyes. Glasses should be stored in special packaging and cleaned every day. You can make your own packaging for glasses.
  • Respirator. As a rule, there is a lot of dust or even debris on the floor before installation, which may contain pieces of insulation. For respiratory protection, we recommend working exclusively in a respirator.
  • Gloves. Necessary when working with a mixture that may contain alkali, and it, in turn, can irritate and corrode the skin of the hands.

We have sorted out what tools are needed if you decide to do tile laying. Always follow safety precautions, do not count on chance when it comes to health. Good luck in all endeavors.

Availability of quality and handy tool for laying tiles allows you to work faster, easier and get a good result. In this article, we will look at the tiler's tool and try to determine the minimum set for a quality job.

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Tile laying tools

The rest of the tool can be called auxiliary, but you can’t do without it either.


Mixer

If you are doing a one-time job, then you can get by with a puncher with a special whisk attachment, or generally mix everything by hand. But with professional tiling, you need to buy a separate mixer.

Since the rotation in the mixer is transmitted through a gearbox, this allows you to create a low load on the electric motor and an optimal mixing speed. In addition, a larger and heavier mixer is securely mounted on the mixer. No drill can withstand the abuse that a mixer can easily handle - they can easily mix large buckets.


Mixers of Russian manufacturers are not inferior to foreign counterparts, but are several times cheaper.

The second plus of the mixer is that you can use it to drill tiles. On it you can put a clamping chuck with a tile drill or a ballerina, or with a small mixer for glue.

For small volumes, you can use the mixer to prepare a mortar for screed or plaster in 20-liter buckets or a metal box.

tile cutter

The next tool that you can’t do without when cutting tiles is a tile cutter.

Roughly speaking, they can be divided into 2 categories:

  1. Amateur manual tile cutters.
  2. Professional manual tile cutters.


Disadvantages of amateur models:

  • Suitable for maximum tiles 40 cm wide.
  • The weak construction bends when cutting thick ceramic tiles and it is not always possible to break it. Over time, the guides rust and make it difficult for the torch to move.
  • The cutting wheel can have a large play (up to 4 mm). This will prevent you from cutting exactly two identical tiles.

Professional tile cutters are 5 times more expensive, and the price for some models reaches 15,000 rubles. But if you are engaged in professional styling, then it can pay off in 1 year. As a rule, such tile cutters are produced in Austria and Italy.

An important detail is the cutting wheel. Its approximate service life is 800 square meters of tiles. This resource is enough for about a year of work of a master tiler, when laying at a rate of 100 squares per month. After that, it no longer copes with floor tiles or porcelain stoneware, but is still suitable for cutting soft wall tiles. But Chinese counterparts will last a couple of weeks at most.

Bulgarian

It is one of the most important tools for a tiler, along with a tile cutter and a mixer. 90% of the costs will go to their purchase.

For cutting tiles, the Makita 9554 grinder (costs about 2.5-3 thousand rubles) is well suited - it has a narrow, comfortable handle, but due to this, reduced power.


Of the more expensive models, there is a Hilti AG 125-A22 battery grinder (a complete set costs about 26 thousand). Its weight, good balance and comfortable handle allow you to work even with one hand, and the power is not inferior to network counterparts.

Circles for the grinder need to be bought special for diamond-coated tiles. Many shop assistants don't know what blades are needed for ceramic tiles and try to sell you blades for cutting stone or concrete. They can be distinguished by the absence of holes and notches on the cutting part. The tile discs are completely smooth and without holes, this helps to reduce the number of chips.

wire cutters

Auxiliary tool when cutting tiles - wire cutters. They help out when the tile cannot be broken off along the cut. Especially often they are needed when cutting durable floor tiles or if the tile cutter wheel is worn out.

There are several types of tile cutters.


Grouting tools


Minimum set of tools for filling joints:



Litokol has special grouting tools.


This is a handy set, but it is very bulky. Therefore, you can only use wringer rollers from it if you somehow attach it to a regular bucket. Also, the grater-washcloth can be squeezed out with a roller, the more it will come in handy when laying the mosaic.

Means of protection

When performing any construction works safety precautions must be observed. Look at least the pictures for the queries "injury from the grinder", and you will immediately understand the need for protection.

  • Protective glasses. Wear them for any work with the grinder, especially when cutting tiles. Store them in a case (you can even make a homemade case from a bottle of Domestos) and wash them under water regularly.
  • Respirator. Often on the floor before laying there is a large layer of dust and construction debris (including the remnants of insulation), so you can not do without it.
  • Gloves. If you are not a mutant with increased cell regeneration, then you cannot do without them.
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The speed and quality of ceramic tiling depends on the tool. The more accessories you have, the easier and faster it is to work. But here the other extreme is dangerous. You can pick up a large number of all kinds of tools. All of them will be useful and necessary, but they will duplicate each other, with a slight difference. How to choose the best set of tools for a master tiler? In this article, we will try to define necessary minimum.

Mixer

Why a mixer and not a drill with a whisk for mixing? In the mixer, rotation is transmitted through a gearbox. It creates minimum load on the electric motor and low speed with stirring - which is desirable for many mixtures. More reliable fastening of the mixer and the mixer itself is large and heavy. No drill can withstand the loads that fall on the share of the mixer. A mixer of a domestic manufacturer is no worse than a foreign analogue, And at a price cheaper by 2-3 times.


The second advantage of the mixer is another of its functions - drilling holes with a chuck. The cartridge can hold a tile drill, a ballerina for round holes, or a small glue mixer.

On small volumes, the mixer can successfully replace the concrete mixer in the manufacture of screeds and plasters. In such cases, the solution is mixed in two 20 liter rubberized buckets or an iron box. For professional tiling, the mixer is first on the list necessary tools.

tile cutter

The second, equally important and necessary tool for a tiler is a tile cutter. There are a wide variety of tile cutters on the market, they can be conditionally divided into two types.


A small amateur tile cutter is the cheapest option. It can be used for one-time work, in small volumes.
Its disadvantages:
- the maximum cut of a tile - 40 cm;
- weak guide tubes bend when cutting thick tiles and it is not always possible to break the tiles. Tubes also rust over time, making it difficult for the torch to move;
- the cutting lower wheel has a backlash up to 4 mm. It is impossible to cut exactly two identical tiles.


A professional tile cutter has a price 5 times higher than an amateur one and reaches up to $400. It can pay for itself within a year if you are a professional tiler. Manufacturers of such tools are usually Austrian and Italian firms. An important part of the tile cutter is the cutting wheel. Estimated service life of the branded cutting wheel is 800 square meters of tiles. Its resource is enough for about a year of work, when laying up to 100 meters of tiles per month. Although after the expiration of this period, he successfully cuts ordinary wall tiles, but he no longer copes with porcelain stoneware and floor tiles. A similar Chinese product will last no more than two weeks. A tile cutter with a branded wheel easily cuts even clinker tiles for steps, 12 mm thick.

wire cutters

An auxiliary tool for cutting tiles are nippers. Not always the tile breaks along the cut. There is burnt ceramics or the cutting wheel wears out. In such cases, simple wire cutters come to the rescue. The first tool is powerful cutting pliers with victorious teeth for all types of tiles. But wire cutters don't have to have a hard cutting edge. The tile breaks easily along the cut line made with a tile cutter.


The cutters also have a "smaller brother" narrow cutters. They are also called "parrots". They are rarely needed, but aptly. They are used to create holes for pipes, sockets and more. Often a hole is cut, but the markings were inaccurate. In this case, there are two options - to cut a new tile or to modify the old one with "parrots".


Joint Filling Tools

After laying the tiles, according to the technology, the joints are filled. To do this, you need to have the necessary minimum of tools.
Joint Filling Tools:
2 l plastic container
Trowel spatula - 4
There are many videos on the Internet showing grouting with a five-centimeter rubber spatula. This is for fans of the song "if you suffer for a long time, something will work out."


Rubber gloves - 5 Rubber gloves are needed only when grouting. Cement and chemical additives that are part of the grout dry and corrode the skin of the hands. With a small amount of work, you can do without gloves.

A felt mitt is the final tool used when laying tiles. After the grout dries, on the second day a plaque appears on the tile. The easiest way to remove it is by wiping with a mitt. I came to the felt mitten gradually. At first it was just a rag, then coarse burlap, and now the crown of the invention is a felt mitten. Recently I read that MAPEY produces a felt grater for such a case. I have not seen this device - so I can not say anything, although I tested a felt-coated grater. It is more comfortable, but does not wipe completely. There are many irregularities on the tile and a flat grater does not reach there.

Grater - washcloth - 3. This tool is necessary for quick and uniform removal of semi-set grout. A washcloth grater is indispensable in the summer, when you have to fill the seams in the sun with quick-hardening grout.

Paralon - 1. Paralon is polished and the seams are brought to the final result. Bucket under water 10-12 liters.


LITOKOL offers such a set of grouting tools. Avana sponge for cleaning cement grout Size 14 x 11 x 6 cm. A piece of foam can replace the sponge. Other sizes are better. 20x15x5cm. A large area speeds up the process. A thick layer of foam requires more careful rinsing. The remains of the grout re-seize in the pores and become unusable if it is poorly squeezed out when washing. It is better to use pink foam - it is more durable. Trays for wall and floor cleaning of surfaces after grouting:
- shockproof plastic;
- two wear-resistant rollers;
- bath 13 liters
- Sponge "Sweepex" with handle

This is a convenient set, but the volume of transported tools increases dramatically. The only thing that can be taken from this set is rollers. If they are adapted in some way over a simple bucket of water, then you can get the same effect. Or the simplest one. Use a roller to clean the "grater - washcloths". In addition, the roller is necessary during the laying of the mosaic.


Avana sponge for cleaning cement grouts. This is important and right tool. Main characteristic such graters are large pores of paralon. The durability of the paralon remains questionable. There should be rough rubber - a washcloth, not foam.


Mop with replaceable double rubber. Length 50 cm.
Rubber spatula. Size 11.5x25 cm. Great tool! With care, such a spatula can last up to 10 years.

White and black felt. Cleaning tiles from grout plaque is best done with felt. A felt welding glove may well be suitable for this.

Flat plastic spatula. It is used to eliminate unevenness between tiles and improve the setting of the adhesive/mortar. The usefulness of this tool is questionable. It does not allow you to see the overall picture of the laid tiles in a separate area. Nailing one corner of the tile, the second inevitably rises. What to do with him? For this case, there is another simple and reliable way, which will be discussed later.

Rubber mallet, weight 1 kg, for tapping the tiles during laying, in order to eliminate voids under the tiles.

A turbine (grinder) is as important and necessary a tool as a tile cutter or mixer. These tools add up to 90% of the cost of acquiring everything needed for laying ceramic tiles. I opted for the turbine "Makita 9554NB" Its advantage is a narrow and comfortable handle. Manufacturers have achieved this by reducing power. The power of this turbine is 710 watts.

The instructions indicate the expected service life - 5 years. This is from the realm of fantasy. The first "Makita 9557NBX3" began to crumble in the second year. In the third year, everything was gradually replaced on it - bearings, housing, rotor, gears. It is easier to buy a Fiolent or Interskol impeller every year. Moreover, tools are imported to the CIS countries from Makita Corporation factories located in China.


I don't want to say that everything Chinese is bad. Circles for cutting ceramic tiles are normal. They are, of course, worse than Bosch cut-off wheels, but they cut tiles at the lowest price. If the key to change the disks on the impeller is tied to the power cable near the plug, then this will save a lot of time that will be spent on searching when replacing the disks.

The rest of the tools can be called auxiliary, but you can’t do without them either.
Measuring tool:
Roulette, bubble level.
A good bubble level is a guarantee of high-quality cladding.


Squares. You need to have two corners. Small - for marking holes on the tile. This square should be chrome-plated, with embossed numbers. Painted squares in a humid environment do not last long. Temporarily, in the absence of a square, you can use ceramic tiles to build a right angle. A large square is needed when marking tiles on the floor. In its absence, the construction of a right angle is performed using a tape measure and the Pythagorean theorem.

Paint or chopping cord. The first tile, most often, lies along the line beaten off with a masking cord. The cord is indispensable for marking the laying line on the floor and walls. In the presence of a laser level, the chopping cord becomes unnecessary.

The water level can be replaced with a laser level. But it is difficult to notice a special acceleration in work. And his price is decent - equal to the cost of a professional tile cutter. The proportion of marking horizontal and perpendicular lines in tile work takes little time. A simple transparent hose and a large square do a good job of this. The laser level cannot be called a necessary tool when laying tiles, although it is more convenient than a water level and speeds up marking.

Aluminum rules (wedges) take a large part in tile work. They are necessary for preparing and leveling the surface for laying, as well as for finishing checking the tiles during laying.


Wedges.
Large - 2.5 m. Such a wedge is necessary when installing screed and plaster on beacons. And also for leveling glue of poor-quality cement-sand screed.
Medium - 1.5 m. This is one of the main tools for controlling even laying on the floor and walls.

Tile laying tools

The spatula is a trowel. Notched trowel 10mm is used when laying tiles with a side dimension of 300 or more. Notched trowel 4-5mm used when laying tiles small size, with a side of less than 20 cm. Shaulsky's bucket --- helps out well when plastering walls and laying large areas of tiles on the floor (with accelerated laying). Rubber hammer. The simplest option is possible. Without any "troubles" - simple wooden handle, average value. Scraper for cleaning the screed from glue and plaster. It can also be used when undermining tiles.


A broom is more often than other tools in the hands when laying tiles on the floor. Also, it is convenient to prime the floor with a broom. To reduce the consumption of the primer, with this method, it is diluted with water by 15-20% more than usual when diluting the concentrate. This method has two advantages. There is no need to wash the brush and the process is much faster.

A set of plastic crosses and wedges. The most commonly used crosses are 3mm wide. But there are lovers of tiles without seams. For this case, I use 1.5 mm crosses.

Carrying - tee 30m. Why so long? Very often, the power outlet is located at this distance. Carrying two light bulbs - 500 watts. Why so powerful? Once, when I arrived at the site to lay tiles, the puttying of the walls was already finished there. When I turned on my carrier, the puttying had to be resumed. Powerful light allows you to see when facing all the small irregularities.


The tee is electric. Construction pencils + felt-tip pens. Construction knife. Primer roller or fly brush. Brush for cleaning the tool from glue. This tool is ignored by many. But he is one of the most important. If you do not use it, then after a week all the tools that come into contact with the glue can be thrown away. Or at the next upholstering of glue, the handle of a spatula or trowel will fall off.

Means of protection

Protective glasses. Glasses are always necessary when working with an impeller, especially when cutting tiles. The danger of flying pieces is that when they hit the eye on impact, they get stuck in the body of the eye. It is impossible to remove it yourself - they are not visible. A sign of such a phenomenon is the persistent pain in the eye the next day. In this case, only an ophthalmologist can help.


Spectacles must be stored in a case and when dirty, rinse with water, not with your hands. If this is not done, very soon the glass will become cloudy from contact with sand. Visibility in them will be almost like in sun glasses.

Respirator. Without a respirator, it is impossible to lay tiles on the floor, no matter how strange it sounds. Usually, tiles on the floor begin to be laid after the completion of finishing work in the room (except for painting and wallpapering). By this time, a layer of dust forms on the screed from grinding the walls during plastering. It is especially dangerous to sweep the floor if a heater was used when sewing drywall. The one that is used in the CIS - especially poisonous - turns out all the insides from it. Therefore, a respirator is needed serious, with replaceable filters. After about a year of use, it becomes difficult to breathe in such a respirator, which means it's time to change the filter.


Gloves. Working with gloves is not very convenient. Performance drops noticeably. After all, you constantly have to take crosses and tiles with your fingers. So I made a compromise. Work in gloves with cut off fingers. They remain after work in the winter, when mittens are often needed as protection from the cold. It is difficult to work in mittens in summer, but it is necessary to reduce the area of ​​​​contact with the glue.

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Production repair work always costs a lot. Even the low cost of a unit of material, multiplied by the required volume, results in a significant amount. At the same time, the cost of finishing work can not only equal the cost of materials, but even exceed it. Therefore, more and more home craftsmen, in order to save money, are doing apartment renovations with their own hands, mastering new professions, technologies and tools for themselves.


After deciding to make repairs with your own hands, you need to purchase the necessary tool for laying tiles and calculate the need for the selected materials so that during the repair process you are not distracted by the search for an unexpectedly needed fixture or device. Let's consider what components the process of facing a room with ceramic tiles can be divided into:

  • dismantling of the old wall and floor cladding;
  • leveling, priming the surface;
  • marking laying, tiling;
  • grouting tiles.

Each of these stages requires a specific set of tools and devices, which we will list in this article. In addition, working with a power tool requires compliance with safety regulations and the use of the following personal protective equipment:

  • overalls;
  • footwear;
  • protective glasses;
  • gloves;
  • respirator with replaceable filters.

Protective equipment - goggles, gloves, overalls, respirator

Dismantling of the old cladding

Tiles are laid on walls and floors, from which any old finish. Consider what set of tools will be needed for the production of this set of works:

  1. Screwdrivers (fitter and electrical) - for dismantling sockets, switches, exhaust fans from the walls.
  2. Perforator with a “chisel” nozzle, a manual chisel, a hammer, a hard spatula, a scraper - for dismantling old tiles from the walls.
  3. Bulgarian (grinder) - to remove oil paint"dry cutter" if the surfaces are painted.
  4. Hard broom and buckets - for cleaning construction debris from the floor.

Leveling and priming the surface

The scope of work, as well as the method of leveling the surface, are determined after assessing the evenness of the base. We list the necessary operations and a set of tools for their implementation.

  1. The evenness of the walls and floor is assessed using a plumb line, a bubble level, a beacon cord, and a flat rail 2 meters long.
  2. A fly brush or paint roller is necessary for priming the surface of the walls before leveling by plastering.
  3. To level the surface, you will need a sieve for sifting sand, a plaster trowel, a grater and a trowel.
  4. When leveling gypsum board surfaces ( drywall sheets) use a grinder with a metal disc for cutting steel profile under the frame, a drill with a carbide drill for drilling holes in the wall, a clerical knife for cutting plasterboard, a metalwork hammer, a screwdriver.
  5. GKL joints with a spatula are filled with tile adhesive.

Marking and laying tiles

Before starting the laying of tiles, measurements and marking of the surfaces of the floor and walls are made, which makes it possible to determine the need for material, as well as to perform the laying rationally and aesthetically.

Consider the operations performed in this case and the tool used for laying tiles.

  1. A construction tape measure 5 meters long, a bubble level, a template rectangular square, a ruler, building crayons, an alcohol marker, a pencil are needed to apply control levels and marks on the surfaces of walls, floors and ceramics.
  2. Depending on the type of ceramic tile, in most cases you will need a manual tile cutter to cut it, and fine adjustment of ceramics is done with a grinder with a dry cutter.
  3. Holes in the tile for mounting boxes of sockets, switches are cut with a drill with crown nozzles or a device called a "ballerina".
  4. To remove a small incised fragment from a tile, nippers are needed.
  5. Tile adhesive is kneaded in portions in a small tub, preferably rectangular in shape for easy removal of the solution with a spatula.
  6. The tile mortar is kneaded with a mixer with a special screw attachment, you can also use a powerful drill, but kneading at low speeds.
  7. To apply tile adhesive to a ceramic or substrate, a small flat trowel is needed to lay the tiles, after which the mortar is leveled over the surface with a larger flat trowel.
  8. To remove excess adhesive, use a notched trowel to lay tiles, optimal size the teeth of which in most cases is 10x10 mm.
  9. To level the tiles when gluing, use a rubber or nylon hammer (mallet).
  10. The device of fixed-width tile joints is carried out using plastic spacer crosses inserted between the sheets of tiles during the laying process.
  11. To control the evenness of the laying of each product, a bubble level and a rail-rule are used.

Grouting tile joints

Cladding work ends with grouting of tile joints and careful removal of dirt from ceramic tiles. Consider what tool and in what sequence these works are performed.

  1. To clean the tile joints, you need a screwdriver with a narrow sting and a narrow paint brush.
  2. The grout solution is prepared in portions in a small container with a volume of approximately 1 liter.
  3. Filling (grouting) of joints is carried out with a narrow rubber spatula.
  4. Excess grout glue is removed from the tile with a clean rag or foam rubber.
  5. The wall and floor cladding, cleaned of glue, is polished with a clean flannel using household detergents.

A well-thought-out set of necessary tools that correspond to the materials and technologies used will save time, reduce the percentage of material waste, improve the quality of the work performed and the level of aesthetics of the finish.

The OBI hypermarket catalog contains over 220 tool items and Supplies for laying ceramic tiles. Products are sold individually and in convenient sets at a price of 15 to 2000 rubles per item.

Features of choice

  • . Crosses and crayons.
  • . Spatulas and trowels.
  • . Chisels and wedges.
  • . Sponges and nozzles for a drill.
  • . Plumb lines and cords.
  • . Cleaners and wedges.

Crosses for laying tile products are made of transparent polypropylene. Consumables are available in standard thicknesses and shapes.

Spatulas differ in several ways:

  • . Dimensions (width).
  • . Manufacturing material.
  • . The form of the working canvas.

Rubber products are used for thorough grouting. Devices with a serrated base are indispensable when applying glue to the lower surface of the facing material.

Plumb lines and rules are used to align the cladding during installation operations. Nozzles on the drill are designed to thoroughly stir the adhesive mixture before use.

Order goods for interior and exterior finishing work in the OBI store using the phone.

Payment and delivery methods

  1. Purchase goods online with delivery
  • . You can pay for the order in cash or by bank transfer.
  • . You will coordinate the date and time of delivery with the operator by phone when confirming the order.
  • . The terms of the free service depend on the city, amount and weight of the product.
  • . Unloading goods, lifting and transferring are additional services and may be paid separately, check with the store operator.

Detailed information about the intervals and zones by city, the conditions for unloading and lifting the order are located, where you can independently calculate the cost of your delivery in advance, indicating the postal address and parameters for unloading.

  1. Order and collect yourself where it is convenient for you
  • . When filling out the order form, indicate a convenient date and time for you to visit the hypermarket.
  • . You can pay for the purchase in cash or by bank transfer at the cash desks of the store.

Purchased goods can be picked up at any of the OBI stores in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Ryazan, Volgograd, Nizhny Novgorod, Saratov, Kazan, Yekaterinburg, Omsk, Krasnodar, Surgut, Bryansk, Tula and Volzhsky.


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