Handmade wooden trays. Wooden tray with handles. Old cabinet doors

Many of us like to have a snack while sitting at the TV watching some interesting movie, but without a tray you can’t bring a lot of sweets at once, and for crumbs on furniture and the floor, it can fly in from the fair half)) It’s also convenient to bring breakfast to bed on a tray, wake up your loved one with the pleasant aroma of freshly brewed coffee. All in all, a useful tool for home use.

Making a wooden tray is quite simple, for which you need to take boards from a pallet or a wooden box, cut and sand. Using wood glue and clamps, glue it into one whole board, and then make the sides of poplar or aspen boards. The resulting surface is varnished on a polyurethane basis, and the sides are painted with white paint.

And so, let's look at what exactly is needed to make a tray?

materials

1. boards from pallet or wooden crate
2. wood glue
3. self-tapping screws
4. putty for wood
5. varnish based on polyurethane
6. white spray paint

Tools

1. hacksaw
2. planer
3. grinder
4. screwdriver
5. brush
6. clamp
7. sandpaper
8. ruler
9. pencil
10 masking tape

Step by step instructions for making a tray from natural wood with your own hands.

As already mentioned above, the first step is to prepare the boards by dismantling the pallet or wooden box. Saw to the same size, process with a planer and sand.

Then the resulting blanks should be glued together into a single whole, this can be done using wood glue and clamps. The edges of each board are smeared with glue and put to each other, when everything is assembled and smeared, everything is pulled together with clamps.

In this position, the boards should be until the glue is completely dry, which is at least 24 hours, after which the clamps are slowly loosened and removed, and excess glue is removed from the surface with a chisel.

Then the surface is carefully polished with a grinder or ordinary sandpaper.

We remove everything superfluous with a chisel and level it.

Then we carefully sand it with sandpaper so that there are no burrs left.

This box is twisted with clamps and is in this position until the glue dries.

If you used self-tapping screws to assemble the structure, then the caps should be drowned in the wood cavity in advance by countersinking the holes, and then puttying the screw heads with wood putty. This putty can be prepared independently, for which you need carpentry glue and sawdust after grinding (small) mixed with glue and brought to a homogeneous mass, it should turn out thick semolina)) and then simply apply the prepared composition to the desired place and level it. No worse than store-bought counterpart)

Excess glue is removed with a chisel and the surface is polished with a grinder.

After that, the tray must be painted and varnished, the master seals the lower part with masking tape so that when applying paint from a spray can, paint does not get on it.

Painting work is best done in a well-ventilated area, if not, just go outside and paint. Do not forget about basic protective equipment (respirator, gloves)

In this article, I will talk about a few simple tricks with which you can give a wooden surface a slightly aged look. Thus, it is convenient to process any products made of soft wood. We will train on the example of a pine tree tray. Such a tray turns out to be convenient for use, looks good just as an interior item, as a background when taking photos, and simply cheers up with its brightness! And extremely easy to make!

Necessary materials:
Board or piece of shield made of soft wood;
Korshchetka / attachment for a drill + drill or screwdriver;
Brush to remove dust from the surface
wood stain
Art acrylic in multiple colors
Bristle brushes, flutes
Palette or container for mixing paints
Water container for rinsing brushes
Sandpaper (60 or 80)
acrylic primer for wooden surfaces(or acrylic varnish diluted 1:1 with water)
Acrylic varnish for finish coat
Handles (for example, for furniture) and screws / self-tapping screws for their fastening

A few words about the base. Ideally, I would choose a board with interesting edges. But in winter time year it is difficult to find a nice board, but in hardware stores there are furniture boards and there is a free sawing with the purchase. The disadvantage of the shield is that it is spliced ​​from several bars and a single relief on the surface will not work. True, when painting, which will be discussed, this will not be noticeable on the finished product. However, if you cover the tree only with stain and refrain from staining, this will be visible. But this material is easily available at any time of the year. I chose a shield 30 * 2000 and sawed it right there into 4 pieces - 4 blanks for trays.
For the first stage, we need a brush / nozzle for a drill + a drill or a screwdriver. At this stage, we will remove soft fibers from the wooden surface, showing a natural relief. It's cheaper to buy a brush and use it - but this is quite a long physical work. You can buy a nozzle for a drill or a screwdriver, it works much more efficiently. When removing soft fibers, a lot of wood dust is obtained, so I strongly do not recommend doing this indoors. It is most convenient in the country: there, as a rule, there are no problems with electricity near the house and you can use a drill. In the city it is quite problematic to find electricity on the street, so I used a screwdriver. This is convenient, except that its battery power is not enough to process the entire board and it has to be recharged. But the dusty part of the work can be done on the street.
Both the brush and the nozzle need to work in the same way - to draw along the fibers, and not across. Then the soft fibers will be thrown to the side, and the hard ones will remain in place. How much to rub is a matter of taste, I set to work quite diligently, as a result, deep grooves form, the relief looks like an old tree, as if the board was left for several years on the street.




This is what the board looks like after processing


Using sandpaper (or a sander, whichever is more efficient), sand the edges of the board, so it can be finished off and protect the tray user from scratches that can leave sharp corners on the board:


At the end of this stage, be sure to clean the board with an elastic brush from wood dust, cleaning it from all recesses. I use a slightly damp brush so as not to breathe dust once again.

Now you can start coloring. There are many options, but in general, the order is respected: the first step is to set the lowest, main color. The first layer must be qualitatively laid and it is necessary to paint over all the recesses, it is in them that it will be visible on the finished product. I use a dark stain called "Old Wood", the dark color will show through and give the effect of an old wood base. In addition, the stain spreads very well through the fibers and fills all the recesses by itself, so you don’t have to worry about non-painting. Through trial and error, and after some bottles of stain went into the bin, I chose Liberon stains. The most important advantage of these stains is the uniform distribution over the surface, without streaks and bald spots. I have come across stains that roll off the surface instead of soaking into it and eventually form ugly spots that give out color (when a good stain looks like the wood was that shade from the very beginning). There are hybrids of stain and varnish on sale, you can also use this option, in which case the next step (priming) can be skipped. I apply the stain with a flute (wide bristle flat brush).


Even if you're using the best stain in the world, it's best to avoid streaks to ensure that the color is applied evenly.


A distinctive feature of good quality stains is that they show the texture of wood, that is, soft fabric fibers, due to better absorbency, are colored more strongly and become darker than denser, harder fibers. At the first stage, we created a relief that is very well emphasized when painting.


After drying, the painted surface looks like this:


To be honest, every time I struggle with the temptation to varnish this beauty and do nothing more with it. But it's not sports. Therefore, we continue before the next stage (color overlay), I recommend covering the entire surface with an acrylate primer (of any company, most importantly suitable for wooden surfaces). Since acrylic paints are water-based, if you don't lay a layer of primer, the water will wash out the stain and the paint will turn dark, and its brightness will disappear. The soil prevents this.




Here's what happened - it could already be left in this form! What could be more beautiful than the warmth of natural wood.






But let's continue! For the next layer, we need acrylic paint and bristle brushes, as well as sandpaper. The whole principle of coloring lies in the cycle of actions "paint - skin", these actions must be repeated until you like the result. By adding new shades close to the previous ones, the color can be made more complex and voluminous, achieving the feeling that the board has been painted several times over the years and the lower layers of paint are visible through the rubbed places in the upper layers.

I advise you to choose for painting the color that is present in your interior as the main or additional one (depending on what background this element will subsequently be placed on). This color needs to be broken down into two or three tones (the color present in the interior and two colors that are lighter and darker in tone than the first), you can pick up and subsequently perform a couple of bright strokes. It is better to apply the lightest shade first. Acrylic paint, although opaque, but in some places a thin layer of paint will still shine through. And a color put on white or light paint will look brighter than the same color put on a dark base. Thus, by applying a light shade first, we prepare the basis for a bright and saturated second and subsequent layers. A little about acrylic paints: these are water-based paints that are very easy to work with. They are odorless, dry within an hour, depending on the thickness of the layer, which allows you to work with them without interruption. They have bright, saturated shades in the palettes of different manufacturers, which can also be mixed with each other to obtain any shades. Cured paint can be thinned with water. Brushes should be washed immediately after use. running water. If the paint dries on the brush, it will not wash off. You can choose acrylic paints from any manufacturer, but it is best to take artistic acrylic - it has a dense consistency and is well applied to the surface. Interior paints that can be tinted are also suitable. I do not advise using cheap acrylic from stationery stores for children's art, it often comes across slippery and rolls off the surface, it is absolutely impossible to work with it. I have in my arsenal acrylic paints from Maimeri Acrilico and art acrylic "Ladoga" and Gamma. A light blue shade is already in the Maimeri Acrilico palette, it suits me quite well, I will start with it.


For work, I take a bristle brush with a hard bristle. It is important not to wet the brush in water before work, otherwise the bristles will become soft and will repeat any bend on the surface, when it is important for me to keep the darker, original color in the recesses of the relief. When painting the relief, hold the brush perpendicular to the stroke (as in the photo), in this case, individual bristles will not fall into the recesses and, accordingly, paint them. The paint should be thick, if it is fresh, then it is definitely not required to dilute it with water. Squeeze out required amount paint on the palette, if necessary, mix several colors to get the desired shade. The brush should not have a lot of paint, it should be semi-dry. When applying paint, do not press hard on the brush, strokes should be done with light movements, lightly touching the surface with the bristles.
1st side of the board:




2nd side of the board:


Add acrylic colors as desired. We skin-paint as much as the soul and your taste require:


A few strokes of white:

After that, I decide enough is enough. In conclusion, the board must be varnished - preferably also acrylic. They are matte, semi-matte and glossy, they are sold both in art stores in small volumes, as well as in construction stores in liters. Acrylic varnishes do not change the shades of the base, they also dry quickly and are odorless. I usually choose matte or semi-matte polish.
After the varnish has dried, the most difficult question will have to be solved: which side will be the front. You can buy handles that are easy to screw on the side of the board, and not through it, then you can turn the board over according to your mood. In my version, through fastening, so you have to think hard about the choice of the front side.

Getting morning coffee in bed is very nice. How to make a breakfast table in bed, what materials to use? This is worth talking about in detail.

The countertop is the main part on which cutlery, cups of drinks and plates of snacks are placed.

It's nice to wake up in the morning and see a breakfast table in front of you in bed, and on it a cup of coffee and a plate of sandwiches. It is very comfortable for a completely healthy person. And for a patient with partial loss of mobility, a table in bed is simply necessary. IN last years on sale you can find a structure that combines 2 items. This has long been a well-known breakfast table in bed and a stand for installing a laptop. Such a product is often equipped with a built-in fan. It works from a computer and plugs into the laptop's USB port. It dissipates heat well and does not allow the laptop to overheat.

The bedside table for a laptop or just for breakfast has quite simple design. It consists:

• from the countertop;
• from the sides;
• from legs.

The countertop is the main part on which cutlery, cups of drinks and plates of snacks are placed. The sides are installed on its sides and do not allow crumbs or drops of liquid to get into the bed.

Getting morning coffee in bed is very nice

The legs are foldable or fixed. The former make the product more mobile. If they are folded, the product can be used as a regular tray. But on the other hand, a coffee table made with fixed legs is much more stable. The height of the legs can sometimes be adjusted. If the product has handles, it becomes even more convenient to use it.

The table top of the bed fixture can be made:

• from ordinary plywood;
• from a mosaic panel;
• from tinted or frosted glass;
• from plastic;
• from other materials.

Traditional materials for making a breakfast tray in bed are different types of wood:

• maple;
• ash;
• pine;
• cedar;
• red.

The blanks undergo a special treatment, after which they are easy to wash. The tabletop element is covered with a heat-resistant varnish, on which there are no traces of hot dishes. The disadvantage of such products can be called their large weight. Hevea bed tables are very popular. This is the name of the rubber tree from Africa. Even without varnish, it is highly resistant to moisture and temperature extremes. Wood and products made from it are characterized by low weight and high strength.

Legs are foldable or fixed

wooden tables in bed is good. But the bamboo breakfast tray is pretty neat too. Its light colors fit perfectly into any interior. It looks especially good in a room made in Japanese style. Ordinary tables are not welcome in the Land of the Rising Sun, so the folding version does not violate these laws at all. A folding portable coffee table allows you to have breakfast at it.

For patient care, plastic products are in demand. They are very easy to clean and do not need to be disinfected. Good and metal products of this type. The metal can be chrome plated or powder coated. Such devices are most often produced as stands for a computer.

Making a breakfast table (video)

How to make a table yourself?

You can make any tables for breakfast in bed with your own hands. The design of the product will depend only on you. The sides can be made carved from plywood, wood or plastic, the tabletops themselves can be made from glass or plywood. A do-it-yourself breakfast table should start with a simple drawing. It or the diagram should contain the main dimensions of all parts. The main one is the countertop. She must be small size. It is enough that a couple of cups of coffee or other drinks and a few sandwiches are placed on it. After breakfast, it is quite possible to place a laptop, several magazines or a notebook with a pen on the fixture.

Leg height is very important. Each should have such dimensions that the assembled table does not interfere with human movements. The approach here should be strictly individual for a particular case. You need to make small, but comfortable handles. They can simply be cut into the countertop or into the sides. You can also use handles that are installed on pieces of furniture.

Height homemade design can be 260 mm, the length of the tabletop is 620 mm and the width is 420 mm. Its recommended thickness is 16-20 mm. The sides are made from blanks in the form of blocks with dimensions of 25x10 mm. You can also use wider straps. You need to assemble your table on carpentry glue using nails. At the time of gluing, it is required to fix the parts with clamps.

For the manufacture of the simplest legs, you need to take a board 50 mm wide and about 18 mm thick. 4 blanks 245 mm long are cut from it. On each bevel is made with a depth of 10 mm. A hole for the axle is drilled at the other end. Its center should be at a distance of 25 mm from the edges of the workpiece. With a compass, you need to draw a circle with a center in the middle of the hole and saw through the workpiece with a jigsaw. Each leg for strength is connected by jumpers of the same material. The product is varnished or decorated in any known style. Images made using the decoupage technique, gilded legs, and a carved tabletop will look great.

An aesthetic tray is not just a stylish attribute of decor, but also a practical everyday item. And if this accessory is made with my own hands, then it also turns into a priceless family relic.

You can transport food and drinks on it, install hygiene products in the bathroom on it, and also use it as an element of the decor composition.

And in order not to spend money, we bring to your attention several non-trivial ways to make an interesting tray with your own hands.

For important events

In order to make a stylish tray for festive occasions and important events, you will need a cutting board without a handle and a pair of furniture drawer handles.

Of the tools you will need: a drill, a drill, screws for fastening handles, a regular pencil and a tape measure.

To begin with, we take the handles from the drawers and mark with a pencil the places where they are attached to the board. We drill holes for the screws at the measured places.

After that, we strengthen the handles well in the prepared holes. You can attach rubber feet to the tray, which will turn it into an even more elegant and practical tool.

From an old painting

Another fun idea is to make a tray out of a ruined picture frame that looks amazing. For this we need some things: fabric; stain, varnish; brush, glass, stained glass handles, hot glue, picture frame.

Firstly, lubricate the frame with stain, a paint that is pleasant to your eye. Then, with self-tapping screws, we fasten the selected handles on the sides of the planned tray, and the protruding screw heads also need to be painted to match the homemade.

next step there will be a fitting of the frame with a selected piece of fabric and fixing it with glue.

Final stage This is to protect the fabric from wear and tear.

Therefore, to save charm, we cover the bottom with glass, which, in a similar way, we fix in the corners with the same method.

Remembering school

If you want to really surprise your friends with your needlework, then a tray with an imitation of a blackboard is exactly what you need. Moreover, this can be done with the help of a spray paint that has the desired effect, and a roll of a masking strip.

An ordinary wooden tray is cleaned and completely, with the exception of the bottom, wrapped in tape. Then the necessary area is painted - half an hour to dry everything is ready.

From simple boards

For connoisseurs of eco-minimalism, you will like the product made of planks. Just pick up a couple of boards in size and connect them with glue or just nails.

If possible, they must first be painted, but the tray looks very interesting in its natural form. The main thing is to attach handles for practicality.

We reincarnate the old attribute

You can simply refresh a long-familiar thing. So, not a small tray will be an excellent basis for decorating with wine bottle corks.

Therefore, when an opportunity arises to get an extra, do not rush to neglect it. Simply attach the corks to the hot glue and then confidently serve drinks on the original tray.

Mosaic

Did your beloved vase break or did the tiles crumble during repairs? Not scary! Even this waste can be used. Using glue and tile grout, you can create wonderful mosaic dishes.

Among the offers of modern furniture stores there are interesting coffee tables with a soft top, if you can call it that. They look interesting in the interior, but they are never practical. Juice or coffee stains are not as easy to wipe off as from a regular wooden or glass countertop. For all owners of such a miracle and just those who love breakfast in bed, we propose to make just such a tray. It is stylish in appearance and not expensive at cost.

materials

Before you make a tray with your own hands, make sure you have:

• boards from a pallet or box;
• boards hardwood tree;
• white paints;
• varnish based on polyurethane;
• masking tape;
• saws;
• sandpaper;
• brushes;
• chisels;
• clamps;
• wood glue;
• roulettes;
• self-tapping screws;
• drills;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• pencil.

Step 1. Decide on the dimensions of the tray and, based on this, cut the boards you have from the box or pallet to the length. In this case, I wanted the boards to look like a single whole after gluing, without joints, seams and other irregularities. To do this, the boards had to be adjusted to each other and in thickness.

Step 2. With the help of clamps and wood glue, all the boards should be glued together, carefully pressing them together so that none of them stand out from the row. After the workpiece has dried, all excess glue should be removed, and the surfaces should be carefully sanded.

Step 3. From the boards of light woods, you will need to make the sides of the tray. In this case, poplar was taken.

When cutting wood, consider the perimeter of the base and your desired tray height.

In the side walls, be sure to mark the cutouts for the handles. Consider the height at which the base will be attached so that the slots do not go to the bottom.

Step 4. After cutting the holes, sand them thoroughly. They must be perfectly smooth.

Step 5. Using wood glue and clamps, glue the sides to the base.

Step 6. Self-tapping screws can be used as additional fasteners.

Step 7. After the glue dries, remove any excess. Cover the holes formed by the fasteners with wood putty. After letting it dry, level the surface with sandpaper or a grinder.

Step 8. Seal the bottom of the tray with masking tape. Apply two coats of paint to the sides. After it dries, remove the tape and leave everything until the surface is completely dry.