Homemade electric drill for soil. Design and types of earthen drills Do-it-yourself earthen drill

To create a well or carry out other type of excavation, it is possible to use not only large-scale drilling rigs operated by specialists. With a small scale and a sufficient amount of time, simpler equipment can be used.

One of these tools is an earthen drill - a device that appears in many variations and varieties. When gardening and dacha work it is most in demand, it is also used in various industries.

1 Design and purpose of the drill

An earthmoving drill is a device that is used to create cylindrical holes in the ground (to be more precise, the upper layers of it are drilled). It consists of a rod (rod), a handle and a drive. At the bottom of the rod is a guide tip and a helical blade, mainly made in the form of, or cutters.

All drills can be conditionally divided into two categories: devices that require the use of manual force, and automatic drills equipped with engines.

2 Types of drills

The classification of portable drilling devices, depending on the type of drive, is performed into three groups: electric drill, hydraulic earth drill, and petrol devices.

Petrol drills are the most extensive category of equipment. Petrol land drill (aka motor drill) is the best option for domestic use, if the capabilities of a conventional hand drill are not enough. It easily opens soil layers up to 2-3 meters deep, in fact, the depth of the well is limited only by the size of the stem extension.

In addition to devices for household use, there is a category of heavy gas drills for construction: these are fairly large mechanisms that are controlled by two operators. They are equipped with high-power engines that allow you to make wells in problematic soils: hard soil, sandy ground, or land with a high content of mountain inclusions.

The main feature of such devices is that all engines are equipped with a gearbox, through which the engine torque is transferred to the rock breaking element. Depending on the class of the device, two types of gearboxes can be installed on it: for heavy drills - worm gears, for light ones - coaxial gearboxes. The fuel is usually gasoline mixed with oil 92.

The design of the motor drill consists of the following elements:

• Drive: for heavy ones - 3-4-stroke engines, for light ones - two-stroke ones;
• Handle for holding;
• Control elements: power adjustment, speed switching;
• Screws are usually used as a food-destroying element.

The cost of devices for domestic use starts from 10 thousand rubles. When buying, first of all, you should pay attention to manufacturers such as Hitachi, Husqvarna, Stihl - these are well-established companies whose products have an optimal price-performance ratio.

There are also a large number of companies where it is possible. In general, renting is a great option if you only need the device for a few days. To date, rent, on average in the market, costs about 1,000 rubles per day, plus you will need to make a deposit of 5-10 thousand.

Electric drills are a less popular option compared to the previous one, but also common and well-known.

The only structural difference between such mechanisms and gas drills is an electric motor - all other elements are identical. The use of an electric drive adds both advantages and disadvantages to the device.

The indisputable advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike a gasoline engine, an electric drive is practically inaudible.

The disadvantages are as follows: electric motors have relatively less power than gasoline ones, that is, for the same money you can buy a more powerful gas drill than a device with an electric motor.

For domestic use, this is not particularly important, but in the case of professional use, this factor can become critical. It is also worth remembering that the device must be connected to the network, which somewhat narrows its portability, since any batteries have an unpleasant feature to sit down at the most inopportune moment..

The cost of high-quality electric drills starts from 15 thousand. The main manufacturers are Makita, Mora, Hitachi. Rent - from 1000 rubles per day.

Hydraulic drills are a category of serious industrial installations. The main advantage of such drills over gasoline and electrical devices- reverse function, which makes it possible to drill both clockwise and counterclockwise. Thanks to it, it is much easier to pass problematic soil layers.

In addition, hydraulic motors, in comparison with electric drives, are 2-3 times smaller in size and much lighter in weight, which makes the hydraulic earth drill more convenient to use.

But even with the same drive size, a hydraulic earth drill will always have more power. Hydraulic motors provide the most flexible shaft speed control, which allows you to choose the optimal drilling mode for different soil layers.

The only significant drawback of drills with hydraulic motors is the "tenderness" of the drive. It is always necessary to keep it clean, as mechanical impurities inside the drive significantly reduce the service life of the device.

The hydraulic earthen drill, in comparison with analogs, differs in several times higher cost. So, the average price is 30-35 thousand. Renting hydraulic drills will cost you from 1.5 to 2 thousand per day. It is also possible to rent a hydraulic drill with operators, in which case one hour of time is paid. Such a rental will cost you about 1 thousand rubles per hour.

2.1 How to make a drill with your own hands?

If you do not want to purchase something that you can make yourself, or you are not satisfied with the expensive rental of equipment, then you can try to make a mechanical earthen drill with your own hands.

To create a homemade drill, you need the following tools:

• Welding machine;
• Bulgarian (with circles for metal);
• Small repair equipment - hammer, metal brush, pliers, sandpaper.

It is also necessary to acquire the materials from which the structure will be made:

• For the stem - fittings 150 cm long, 15 mm in diameter. (adjust the height of the drill depending on your height);
• For the handle - fittings, or a metal pipe 40 centimeters long, with a diameter of 20 mm;
• For a cutter - a disk from a circular file, or a sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick;
• For the "needle" (guide element) - a drill for metal with a diameter of 15 mm.

A homemade hand drill for earthworks is made as follows:

• We make cutters (blades) of the drill. If you take a disk from a circular for this, you can save a significant amount of time and effort.
• To make a cutter from such a disc, cut it in half, and on each half grind off the blades that the disc was originally equipped with. At first, it is not necessary to sharpen the edges of the cutters so as not to cut yourself during the welding process - sharpness is given after all connections are completed.
• In the case of using ordinary metal, make an approximate marking on the sheet and cut out two blanks with a grinder. Their size depends on the purpose for which a hand drill for earthworks will be used - for, or a well for planting trees.
• If there is no clear goal, then the best option "for all occasions" are cutters from 15 to 20 mm.
• We prepare the fittings for the stem. It is not recommended to make a stem from two small pieces of reinforcement welded together, since sooner or later, due to soil resistance, their connection will fall apart.
• A drill for metal is welded to the end of the rod, it acts as a home-made guide element (the optimal drill length is from 7 to 10 centimeters)
• We weld milling cutters to the junction of the reinforcement and the drill on the rod. This should be done so that there is an angle of 30 degrees between them.
• We take a grinder, put on an abrasive wheel for metal, and sharpen the edges of the cutters: we remove the upper and lower layers of metal along the outer edges of the semicircles.
• We make a handle: a piece of reinforcement, or a steel pipe, is welded perpendicularly to the upper part of the rod.

You can also make a slightly improved design - a homemade hand drill for earthworks with an extendable stem. To do this, a bolt is welded to the handle of the drill, and a nut is welded to the upper part of the rod. A piece is used as an extension metal pipe, on the edges of which a bolt and nut are welded, identical in size to those welded to the handle and stem.

2.2 Design and use of the drill (video)

In the garden, you have to use various equipment. To plant trees or build a fence, the owner will need an electric drill for earthworks. This device is simple in design and has high performance. It is only necessary to choose the right device, and the work will take less physical effort and time.

general information

Before going to the store for such a device, you should find out what an electric earth drill is and how it generally works. Most models have a special frame as the main structural element. There are two handles on it, as well as an electric motor, supplemented by a gearbox. The latter is necessary to increase the torque when using the device.

There are many criteria for choosing an electric drill

During operation, the unit must be held by two people at the same time. When the gearbox shaft rotates, the torque is transmitted to the screw screw. Thanks to him, it becomes possible to perform a variety of earthworks. How much you have to spend on the purchase of equipment depends largely on its characteristics. The most important are:

• dimensions;
• power;
• terms of Use.

A range of similar devices Russian market small, due to the limited scope of their use. But in fact, an electric drill is a fairly versatile device. The consumer must make a choice in favor of a particular type, starting from the type of soil prevailing on the site. In addition to it, you can purchase a variety of nozzles that manufacturers offer for different surfaces.

In this video you will learn more about the earth storm:

Advantages and disadvantages

Although an electric earth drill is available in stores, it is rarely used on sites. Many refuse to buy a device because they simply do not know about its main advantages:

1. Saving physical strength. These devices are powered by electricity, so the work associated with drilling holes in the ground becomes an easy task.
2. Environmental friendliness. Unlike gasoline appliances, their electric counterparts do not emit exhaust gases during operation, so there is no harm to plants and the environment.
3. Noiselessness. The electric drill during work does not create noise. Thus, its use completely eliminates discomfort for neighbors.
4. Minimum weight. Modern models they are light in weight, which also gives them an advantage over gasoline devices.

The main and only disadvantage of these devices is that the drill is tied to electrical outlet 220 V. If the site is not electrified, then it is not possible to use such equipment. Although many models are equipped with batteries, the battery power is not enough for continuous operation of the device.

Application rules

Usually, an earthen electric drill is used to make holes for planting fruit trees or shrubs. But also when carrying out construction works this tool may also come in handy. It is great for creating holes where piles or other supporting elements will be installed later.

Performing work on creating holes in the ground manually is a time-consuming task, and it is noticeably complicated by the encountered stones and tree roots. However, the use of an electric drill allows you to solve the problem easily and quickly. In a situation where it is necessary to drill holes in hard to reach place, where it is not possible to place overall equipment, such a device will greatly facilitate the process.

A variety of electric drills are available on the market today. Between themselves, they differ in size. They can even be used for jobs such as drilling a well or making a well. If you need a device to perform a wide range of tasks in the garden, then it can be easily purchased at any specialized store.

Nuances of choice

In order for the equipment to provide high efficiency when used, it should be properly selected, focusing on the tasks to be solved. The main points that deserve attention when choosing an electric drill are the power of the device and the equipment of the device.

It must be understood that low power limits the scope of use. But buying high-power equipment is also an irrational decision, especially if it is planned to be used only occasionally in the garden. Best Choice there will be a purchase of a device with a power of 1.5 kW.

If an electric drill is required to install a pile foundation or perform another laborious task, then models from 2 kW and above should be considered.

A well-equipped fixture ensures easy performance of a variety of jobs. Such a device can be considered universal, but this leads to an increase in its cost. In specialized stores, the minimum price for such equipment is 15,000 rubles. In order to obtain quality and reliable device, you need to spend a lot of money.

Main manufacturers

Drilling equipment for use on garden plots produced by many companies. In countries such as Japan, Sweden and Italy, there are many companies that produce electric drills. . Among Russian consumers, the devices of the following companies are most in demand:

1. ECHO. This Japanese company produces a variety of products. Models are different high reliability and are pleased with their performance. Their characteristic is quite simple design. This eliminates frequent breakdowns and facilitates maintenance. The average price tag for devices from this manufacturer is 28,000 rubles.
2. EFCO. A manufacturer from Italy offers a variety of devices for drilling. A feature of the devices is increased strength, they can easily withstand severe loads. The fixtures are great for frequent use. Brand products are offered at an average price of 29,000 rubles.
3. STIHL. The equipment of this company is well known in the Russian market. The domestic manufacturer offers a variety of devices. Its product line also includes electric drills. Models are practical and durable. They are also economical to use. Devices can be used to perform work of varying complexity, equipped with a safe locking system. The average price for them in comparison with foreign counterparts is much lower and amounts to 15,000 rubles.

By choosing a device from one of the well-known manufacturers, you can get a reliable device that will last a long time. You don't have to buy equipment. The best solution is to cooperate with the dealer. You can buy really high-quality equipment from the official representative of the brand, besides, in this case, competent service is guaranteed.

An earthmoving electric drill is successfully used in cases where, for example, it is necessary to drill a hole for piles, make a trench or recess for mounting fence posts, drill a hole for planting a tree or shrub, etc.

Brief description of the device and the advantages of the equipment

By design, an earthmoving electric drill is an electric motor that has two handles, as well as a clamping mechanism used for clamping. This tool is most often made in the form of an auger. It is worth noting that the nozzles are removable and can be of different diameters, which allows you to adjust the size of the hole that will be drilled. It is also worth noting that there is a conditional division of drills into types, depending on their purpose. Allocate garden, earthen and pile tools.

An earthmoving electric drill is a rarity among people who have suburban areas although it has some advantages. If we compare it with the manual type, then, of course, the advantage is that the main rotational force is due to the electric motor, and not human forces.

If we compare the device with a gasoline unit, then the advantages include silent operation, environmental friendliness and readiness for work (you don’t have to start it like a gasoline one).

Equipment Application

As mentioned earlier, one of the biggest benefits of using a drill is that it can handle piling holes with ease. Of course, you can do this with a manual type of unit, but an electric drill for earthworks will cope with this task much faster. In addition, the presence of small stones or roots inside the soil will make it very difficult to dig a recess if it is done by hand, for an electric motor this is not a hindrance.

Another convenience of using the equipment is that it is more compact than a conventional drill, and therefore its operation in places with limited space is most acceptable. Small dimensions and high functionality of the unit are its main positive traits. It is also worth adding that, in comparison with gasoline models, the weight of the electric drill is less, which makes it easier to work with it.

Models and disadvantage

Large models of earthen drills are also used for digging wells, for example. Types with a smaller diameter nozzle are used for domestic use (planting plants, installing poles, etc.). However, it is worth noting that in the line of models there are also multifunctional types with removable nozzles. This makes it possible to use them depending on the needs, as well as on the quality and type of soil with which you have to work.

Naturally, the main disadvantage of the drill is that its operation in places where there is no electricity is impossible. Yes, when buying a device, a battery is usually included in the kit, but charging it lasts for a short period of time.

The principle of operation of the unit

An electric drill is an electric motor and a shaft that has a type. When using such equipment, the hole in the ground will have smooth edges and a clear auger diameter. The direct drilling process is carried out due to the fact that the auger has a very sharp tip, as well as pointed helical blades. When the equipment is started, the electric motor begins to rotate, transferring its force to the shaft to which the auger is attached. This is how drilling happens.

Favorable cost of the device

The price of an electric drill for earthworks is also one of its advantages. The approximate cost of the device is 1,000 rubles. It is important to note here that the device itself and the basic nozzle included in the kit are purchased for this amount. And then you can purchase separately augers of different diameters, if necessary. Thus, you can greatly increase the functionality of the equipment at a minimal cost. Choosing the right one will also save you money.

If you plan to operate the device in the garden, that is, for garden needs, then a power of 1.5 kW is enough. If you plan to drill holes for construction needs ( pile foundation), then you need a device with a power of 2 kW or more. If there is such a need, then electric units can also be used for ice drilling.

Reviews about the electric drill for earthworks are mostly positive. Of the main qualities that buyers distinguish, it is worth highlighting the ease of operation, low weight, the quality of the device and its relatively low cost.

There are also negative reviews. However, most often they are left by people who have not understood the rules of its operation and have acquired, say, a less powerful model than was required to work with a certain type of soil. Naturally, the result was bad.

From this it should be concluded that it is necessary to examine the soil with which you will have to work, decide for what type of work the tool is purchased, and only after that buy it. It is also recommended to purchase products only from trusted companies. It is better to pay a little more, but buy a better item than to pay less and buy equipment again in a year.

Motodrills from "Hitachi"

Electric drills for earthworks "Hitachi" are products of quite high quality and reliability. The manufacturer of this equipment is Japan. However, it should be noted that the range of goods is not too large. Of the electric models, there are only garden types. This means that the manufacturer does not produce electric models with high power. Only gasoline models from this brand have high power ratings. Today, there are three main qualities due to which Hitachi products have become quite popular.

1. The assembly quality of the units is very high.
2. The efficiency of these devices is also high.
3. The service life of the devices is quite long.

Product selection and operation

When buying an earthen drill, it's best to always go to a specialized store where they can help with the choice. However, there are a few guidelines that should always be followed. Three parameters should always be paid special attention - power, screw head size and engine size (if it is a gasoline model).

Quite often, when working with this tool, it happens that the drill burrows into the ground. For this reason, almost all new models are equipped with a safety system that turns off the engine if this occurs. This system protects equipment from damage. To avoid such a shutdown, it is necessary to periodically stop work and clean the auger from dirt.

It is also intended to protect the unit from accidental start-up or to protect a person in case of loss of control of the product.

The modern market is saturated with various kinds construction tools and fixtures. Take, for example, a pit drill: today you can easily find a device whose cost is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely suit the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing easier: buy and use. But one should not always rush into such an acquisition. The fact is that budget equipment in practice, it does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or even is not at all capable of fulfilling the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, the engine speed drops from a heavy load, etc.

Buy a powerful and expensive device for a small amount of construction or garden work– is not always appropriate. Renting is also not cheap. Therefore, craftsmen strive to use the equipment already at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.

Earth drill from a drill

In most cases, a mechanized hole drill is a power plant (a powerful drill or a gasoline engine), which, using a simple mechanical drive, is connected to a conventional hand drill. The drill can be made independently.

Drill from a drill with your own hands.

On sale you can find a ready-made drill of serial execution.

skyle FORUMHOUSE user

Many say that they just bought such an auger and fixed it to him a powerful low-speed electric drill.

Engine Specifications

Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. Let's start with the fact that the power plant can be connected to the drill both directly and through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a reducer for himself. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special bed, and you have to hold it with your hands during operation).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

At first, a gearbox was planned, but after field tests with a “drill-auger” scheme, it was decided to abandon the gearbox. The moment is such that she does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).

The power indicator - 2 kW - was taken by us not by chance. It is these drills that are most often used by the participants of our forum in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.

Tri.Dr.E FORUMHOUSE user

There is experience in the construction of a columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a 2 kW drill and an auger designed for a pit diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of the drill is somewhere around 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling, I used an extension cord from an ordinary steel pipe. The soil in my place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth - 1.8 - 1.9 m).

In order to make holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a bed, a winch and other accessories).

But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW is capable of (even without a gearbox).

A bit of theory

If we consider the relationship between the power of the drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, then it is determined by the following relationship:

• N - power (W).
• M is torque (Nm).
• n is the number of revolutions (rpm).
• 9549 is a special coefficient.

Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm at 300 rpm). But to calculate the torque, it is always necessary to take into account losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most manufacturers of power tools indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3 ... 1/4 less than consumed. Accordingly, less torque. A drill with a power of 2 kW at 300 rpm will create a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.

When choosing a power unit for your yamobur, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will seriously have to think about introducing a reduction gear into the design of the drilling rig.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user

Regarding the gearbox: the gearbox is good, because it allows you to proportionally change the number of revolutions and torque without changing the power. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And the power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).

Focusing on the torque that a 2 kW drill creates (without an additional gearbox), you can choose the right device for your hole drill. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the torque value that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the number of revolutions of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user

The optimal speed during drilling is from 60...100 to 200...300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, drilling method, type of drilling nozzles, well diameter, etc.

The above quotation mentions drilling methods. There are all two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant removal of soil. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide a large amount of torque.

During drilling with constant soil removal, the auger, which has drilled into the soil to a certain depth, rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also removed outside.

The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the target depth. The process is laborious, but it does not require high torques.

As we have already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews from FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have proved themselves quite well. The power of gasoline engines must also correspond to the specified indicator.

Gearboxes for yamobur and their varieties

The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, fixtures and components that have been idle for a long time, because they were not worthy of use. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical reduction gear can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for a moped that has served its age, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying around on an old shelf in the garage, etc.

When equipping a drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal speed of the drill and that it is necessary to provide sufficient torque on its working shaft.

mechanic020 FORUMHOUSE user

I had a broken moped lying around, and I took the rear gearbox from it. I sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back of the aluminum case with the gearbox), then fixed it through the gear to this gearbox, an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with the gearbox gave a ratio of 13:1 (the output turned out to be about 300 rpm).

About the chain drive: with a certain amount of ingenuity, you can, without much effort, build a completely reliable hole drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

There is no gearbox, although it was planned to be made from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its own sprockets. The gear ratio is 1: 2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Is it possible to use it on very hard soils, but we don’t have such.

The use of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to the assembly of the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox available (or the ability to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. Here, for example, is a photo of the gearbox posted by the user melomandk.

Melomandk FORUMHOUSE user

Here is a gearbox I found. That's just the gear ratio is large - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (on the body) - somewhere around 15 x 15 cm.

As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.

di grise FORUMHOUSE user

My yamobur is based on just such a gearbox. So far I'm very pleased. The engine is a grinder (3000 rpm at the output). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I did not try to drill clay, but I took a hard rammed earth with inclusions of crushed stone and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are homemade - from the spring.

bed

If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be fixed in a special frame.

The design of home-made frames, as well as of mechanical reduction gears, can be very diverse. But there are structural elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.

lifting mechanism

As a lifting mechanism, you can use a chain drive installed inside the central rack. Raising and lowering is carried out either with an additional electric motor or with a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). It didn't need to be deeper. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.

In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along the vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.

Another design of the lift involves the use of a steel cable and a winch with an additional electric motor.

mechanic020 FORUMHOUSE user

The main electric motor of the drill drives up and down the square tube. It moves due to the winch (which I already had). This winch is needed in order to pull the drill with soil from the well.

For comfort mechanic020 made a control panel that controls the winch and the rotation of the drill during operation.

The drill, together with soil adhering to it, can create quite large loads on the winch. At great depths, it will work on the principle of a piston, creating a vacuum under itself and exacerbating the situation when lifting up. Therefore, the more powerful the winch is used, the better.

DmitryEvg FORUMHOUSE user

My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through the chain hoist). Power - 1kW.

Bottom support for bed

The lower bed support can be equipped with two wheels (for easy movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, then the installation will be transferred from the transport position to the working one by simply tilting the bed.

It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the supporting elements of the frame, which will help to set the drill in accordance with the vertical level before starting work.

Materials for the manufacture of the bed are selected for reasons of strength. Not everyone can perform a complex design calculation on their own, but anyone can use the experience of our portal participants.

Yes, user Tri.Dr.E made a bed from a corner 50 * 50 * 5. The vertical supports and the upper transverse bar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.

User jumper_at_home laid in the design of the bed different metallic profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from a steel sheet 10 mm thick.

And here is a photo of the installation, which was created by the user PwrWW"from what was" (as he himself says).

PwrWW FORUMHOUSE user

The most difficult thing was to find two even solid three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they didn't exist, I would buy profile pipe by 80 or 100 mm. Below I used a piece of channel 80 and a corner from scrap metal. I also found 4 p-shaped plates of suitable length among the scrap.

Ideally, the carriage should be made in such a way that, if necessary, the operator of the drilling rig can stand on it. It is especially important to observe this condition on hard ground.

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

Here is what was used to protect the drill from turning: a steel stop angle - 6 mm, screwed to the hole for the handle, which is on the body of the drill. Everything is bolted together with a sufficient plane of surfaces. If you want even more reliable, provide a clamp for the landing groove on the drill end switch.

mechanical drive

The design of a mechanical drive that connects a drill or other engine to the working shaft of an earthen drill does not differ in particular complexity. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into the drill chuck (Morse taper, etc.) and a cylindrical sleeve, one end is welded to the adapter with bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the drilled hole, removable knees made of the same material as the drill rod can be inserted between the drill and the drill.

In order to prevent damage when the working body is jammed, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The hairpin is made of a metal bar - 4 ... 8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a stud having a minimum diameter (4 mm).

Almost a pro FORUMHOUSE user

Imagine if your drill hits a stone and jams. I have a 4 mm nail as a shear stud, and it has never been cut off. But, if an obstacle is encountered, then it does not give away in the hands.

Homemade drill

As we have already said, the working body of the installation (drill) can be purchased at a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, is a homemade drill with removable blades.

To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of a suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made of a thick metal sheet (6 ... 10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Art. 65G). If you need a garden hole drill of small diameter, then you can use ordinary truck springs.

For the manufacture of blades, you can use disks from a circular saw.

The diameter of the drill should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes to be drilled.

We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.

Discarding the top handle, we get exactly what we need.

The design of a homemade drill must comply with the following parameters:

• The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25° to 30°.
• The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45°…60°.
• It is desirable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, thanks to which the installation will be easier to enter into dense soil.

How garden drill fasten in a drill.

During pouring concrete mortar each layer is compacted. This is done manually by punching the mixture laid in layers with rods of different materials(metal, wood). All work can be done much faster with the help of special devices- vibrators. But a factory vibrating plate purchased for home use is not always an economically viable option, because it is expensive. To work for her several times, and then leave her to just lie does not make any sense. In this case, you can make a vibrator for concrete from a perforator with your own hands. Homemade will speed up the tamping process and improve the quality of the work.

To implement the project in practice, you will need the following materials and tools:

• metal (steel) plate of the required dimensions, thickness from 50 to 70 mm;
• an iron bar or reinforcement (rectangular or circular) of such length that it is possible to reach the bottom of the exposed formwork structure when pouring concrete;
• perforator;
• an old drill or a pike, a spatula, a chisel, even a crown;
• grinder with discs for metal;
• welding machine with electrodes;
• ruler or tape measure;
• marker.

The minimum power of the perforator should be 1.5 kW - only such a tool will provide the required performance without overheating.

One side of the rod with a cross section of 15-20 mm is processed so that it can be inserted into the perforator cartridge. A stainless steel plate is welded to the second side. This requires special electrodes.

It is better that the rod also be from of stainless steel. Concrete is an aggressive environment. Ordinary metal is heavily affected chemical substances, and also wears out mechanically faster.

The sequence for manufacturing a tamping nozzle is as follows:

• cut off a rectangle of the required dimensions from a steel sheet with a grinder, and a piece of the required length from a round or rectangular rod;
• weld the plate to either end of the rod;

• cut off with a small margin the seat of the drill;

• weld it to the rod.

If you do not use an old drill, then you will need to make a special adapter for a punch chuck, or use machine tools to carve a seat on the free end of the rod. It is easiest to immediately use a drill of the desired length. On the basis of a perforator, more complex devices can also be made, for example, with a flexible shaft, which will additionally mix the working solution.

Homemade rammer for concrete small size(the simplest manufacturing option) is presented in the video.

Owners of cottages or private houses are often faced with the need to dig holes for fence posts or pile supports. Used for earth drilling hand tool, and equipped with an electric or fuel drive (for example, gasoline). In the first case, the work will take a longer time, and will also require large labor costs. Buying or renting powerful devices is not cheap, so craftsmen figured out how to make a homemade hole drill from a puncher.

But home-made devices, in comparison with factory counterparts, have the following cons:

• they can only drill relatively shallow holes of small diameter;
• they are not suitable for working on hard ground.

Structurally homemade devices consist of three parts:

• perforator;
• conventional earth auger;
• adapter or reducer.

The last 2 parts of the device can be made by hand. For sale even special nozzle (auger) for drilling, which is attached to a powerful puncher or drill. A working tool made in this way is shown in the photo below.

An important point is the amount of power and the number of revolutions of the perforator, which will be used in conjunction with the drilling device. Optimal value the first parameter for a manual model of a homemade yamobur is 2 kW. It should be taken into account that, depending on the number of revolutions, the drill can be connected directly to the punch chuck or through a gearbox. For models with a power of 2 kW, the latter is not needed.

Optimal for drilling is the number of revolutions of the working nozzle from 60 to 300 per minute. This value depends on the properties of the soil in the area.

Drilling is performed in two ways:

• continuous;
• with periodic soil extraction.

In the first case, you will need a more powerful tool (with more torque).

Algorithm for making a homemade drill

To make a drill for holes with your own hands, you will need, in addition to a puncher, such tools and materials:

• angle grinder;
• a welding machine with a brand of electrodes corresponding to the metal used;
• electric drill;
• unnecessary perforator drill;
• metal reinforcement or rod for the manufacture of rods;
• material for the cutting part;
• cable and sockets to make a simple extension cord.

The work of converting a perforator into a device that can be used to drill holes in the ground is directly in the creation of nozzles. All work is performed in the following sequence:

• cut off a piece of the desired length from a rod or tube using a grinder (about a meter is enough if the power of the tool is 2 kW);
• knives are attached to the lower end (connection methods and design features of the cutting part are discussed below);
• cut off from the drill its base, designed to install this nozzle in a perforator cartridge;
• weld the cut fragment to the tube.

The simplest version is ready for use in work. If you do not use the base from the old perforation drill, then you will need to grind a seat from the rod for the tool chuck or for the adapter used.

In addition to the manual model, you can make like a stationary drilling rig, possible variant which is shown in the photo below.

To provide power to a homemade pit drill, you will need to purchase or make your own extension cord.

The operation of the created device is shown in the video.

Manufacturing of the cutting part

Used as knives:

• discs from circular saws suitable diameter;
• ready-made augers from factory motor-drills or agricultural machinery;
• a metal sheet from which circles of the required diameter are cut out, sharpening them and bending them as needed.

The cutting part can be made removable (bolted) or fixed (welded to the rod). Both options are shown in the photos below.

Cutting part design must meet the following parameters:

• be larger in diameter (enough for 5 mm) than this parameter for the holes being created;
• it is necessary that the angle between the blades is 25-30 degrees;
• the front (cutting) part of the knives should be sharpened at an angle of 45°-60°.

It is advisable to make the tip of the drill from a drill designed for drilling metal, so that the tool enters the soil mass more easily.

At its core, converting a perforator into a vibrator or an earthen drill consists in making a nozzle that is appropriate in terms of functionality and size. Difficulties can arise only if you independently prepare a seat on the rods for a cartridge or adapter. In general, the manufacture of the considered options will not require much time and effort.