Section: Machine tools and tools

The purpose of our work will be the manufacture of a cutting machine with our own hands. There is no need to describe how useful and necessary such equipment is in the work of any craftsman. and just in business.

We will start manufacturing from a frame-frame, its dimensions 700*1000*900 mm.

A corner of 25 * 25 mm will perfectly serve as a material for the frame, we cut the workpiece with a grinder and weld it. We weld channel No. 10 to the upper plane of the frame at a distance of 70 mm from the edge, to which, in turn, two vertical posts from a 40 * 40 mm square are attached with bolts.

The uprights are connected by a #216 12mm shaft with a clad sleeve (to avoid end movement of the disc, the shaft-hub connection is made with a sliding fit with minimal clearance). A rocker arm from the same channel No. 10 with a size of 800 mm is welded to this bushing, and in such a way that the shoulders are related as 1: 3.

An electric motor is mounted on a smaller part of the rocker arm, and a working shaft is mounted on the larger part, the transmission of movement will be carried out using a belt drive.

Now about the electric motor. Preference should be given to asynchronous motors, as more reliable and durable. Practice shows that for normal operation with a cutting disc # 216 400 mm, a "three thousand" with a power of 2.2 kW, powered by a three-phase network, is ideal. A thousand and a half will do, but the gear ratio of the belt drive must be chosen so that the shaft is about 6000 rpm. In case of power supply from a single-phase network. engine power should be increased by 30% and run and start capacitors should be used.

We order the working shaft with supports, flanges for the disk and a pulley for the “A” type belt to the turner, and the flange protrusion should be # 216 32 mm. In this case, it will be possible to install both a cutting disc and a saw blade for wood on the machine. Both motor and shaft are attached to the shaft with M10 bolts and nuts.

The rocker stroke is limited by the chain, and springs are installed on the engine side to facilitate the return (for example, from a sports expander). Chains and springs are fastened with bolts.

The table is made from a planed board 40-50 mm, and covered with plywood or USB to level out small irregularities.

And further important point . When installing the shaft, install the saw blade and carefully check the perpendicularity of the planes of the blade and table. If necessary, the position of the shaft must be leveled by using shims on the shaft bearing supports.

And finally, the last. DO NOT FORGET to provide disk protection.

The blade operates at high speeds, abrasive and metal particles can fly out, and in the case of using a saw blade with carbide tips, the latter can fly out. Disk protection is a must!

What is needed for a cutting machine

Watch video Cutting machine for metal.(Homemade cutting machine for metal.)

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Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder - convenience and practicality!

Bulgarian is a very useful and versatile tool. With it, you can cut metal, stone, tiles and, of course, grind surfaces, but sometimes it is much easier and more accurate to perform these works. stationary machine. Fortunately, you can make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands!

Homemade grinder machine - pros and cons

If you have to hold an angle grinder in your hands often enough, you probably managed to feel its disadvantages. Weak spots tools stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to fix the parts during cutting, and their slightest vibration can lead to the destruction of the abrasive disc, which in turn is fraught with serious injuries.

Secondly, it is rather difficult to control a clear perpendicularity of the cut with a mobile version of the tool, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the mark and the material being cut, and even hold it if necessary. Thirdly, it is quite difficult to cut several parts of the same size with a tool, especially when it comes to twigs and small pipes - after cutting, you also have to trim the parts.

And, of course, the employment of both hands and the utmost tedious concentration during work, since the angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools. What is only worth a kickback - a sudden rejection of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc is jammed in the workpiece. The danger of kickback lies not so much in the rejection of the tool as in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high speeds, fragments of abrasive can seriously injure the operator.

Especially often, a kickback occurs at the end of the cut, when only a small jumper connects the parts. In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the wheel and cut the part from the back side. Cutting machine, which you can design with your own hands from enough available materials, is able to solve all these problems and provide additional security.

Making a cutting machine - an easy option

Finding a ready-made machine on the shelves of the store that meets your needs at first glance is enough simple task. But there is hardly a design that is completely made with all the requirements, because the requirements are different for everyone! In such cases, the owners of the machines are trying to improve or remake them, but they face very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys that are very difficult to work with by welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you need specifically - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring. Remaking someone else's is much more difficult than making your own!

The simplest home-made machine for a small grinder with your own hands can be done at a minimum cost and in just a few hours! The finished structure will be a long metal pipe that acts both as a frame and as a handle. Closer to one end, a transverse metal bar with two holes for fastening the grinder is welded.

On the same side, the pipe is attached to one side of a small piece of the corner on the movable shaft, while the corner itself is attached on the other side either to the desktop, or just to the floor in the garage! On the opposite side of the mount, it is important to fix the spring, which will allow the entire structure to return to its original position. That's all - the machine is ready, you just need to properly fix the grinder. Of course, this option is for the simplest work, for more accurate and complex procedures, it is necessary to make a more complex design.

Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder - for precise work!

To make a cutting machine, you will need the following materials and tools: a steel angle, a profile pipe, a sheet of metal for a platform (or a lighter version of chipboard), a welding machine, a channel, a drill, a shaft, several identical bearings, a small diameter pipe, a spring, and also relay and pedal. Welding, if you think about it, can be replaced with strong bolts - that's what you need a drill for. By the way, this option will allow everything else to disassemble the machine if necessary.

How to make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands - step by step diagram

Step 1: Details and Drawing

The manufacture of the machine should begin with cutting parts onto the frame. To prevent damage to expensive material, carefully study the numerous drawings that can be found on the Internet or follow the models on the shelves. In the latter case, draw up a drawing yourself, for this you do not need special skills - the main thing is to present the finished structure and its proportions on paper. Each angle grinder needs its own drawing, because tools from different manufacturers can radically differ - somewhere you can remove the handle, somewhere you will have to come up with a stand for the whole grinder! Plus, under different sizes disk needs a different frame.

Step 2: Frame

The simplest frame consists of two frames on a common axis. The lower frame should be fixed on a platform - metal or chipboard. If the grinder is large, it is better to use metal. The upper frame, to which the grinder is screwed, must rotate vertically relative to the lower one, like a pendulum. A spring is needed to fix the starting position. A mount is welded to the lower frame, which consists of a clamping angle and a movable clamp.

Step 3: Ruler

It is very important to provide measuring details in the machine, thanks to which you can cut workpieces with an accuracy of up to 1 mm. In this case, a movable ruler with a limiter welded to the tube is best suited. After setting the exact size with it and fixing it with an end screw, you can get to work!

Step 4: Electronics

For convenience of work, provide in the design a starting pedal or a button with switching through a low-voltage relay of 12 V. Through it, voltage will be supplied to the angle grinder. With the help of such a simple design, we free our hands, achieve an accurate even cut without the use of a vice, and save time on accurate measurements. This tool will replace the metal cut-off saw, and if necessary, you can always return the angle grinder to its mobile state.

Do-it-yourself machine for a grinder - safety is paramount!

When working with a grinder, stationary or manual, safety must always be remembered. In the case of the stationary version, you need to take into account the direction of the tool and the position of the guard - it is important that the guard completely hides the area in which the operator is located. If you have a machine, you will probably have a desire to use the tool for other purposes - for example, attach a saw blade for wood to the angle grinder, which is absolutely impossible to do!

Wood is a heterogeneous material, it can contain knots or even nails. The rotational speed of the angle grinder significantly exceeds the prescribed speed of a standard sawmill, which will very quickly render the saw blade unusable.

But, in addition, unlike abrasive and grinding discs, saw blades have sharp teeth that pose a high danger. Risking your health for a quick cut is simply unwise. After installing the tool and a new disc, the work of the grinder should be checked for at least 1 minute at idle - the circle should rotate completely freely, without excessive vibration, without touching the casing.

Leave the solution for 5-6 hours. Then the foam will separate and rise up, and liquid will remain below. It is necessary to carefully drain this liquid and smear the picture with it in several layers. After each layer, the painting must dry completely. Then you can hang a picture and forget about it for half a year or a year. Then the picture should be washed with water. After that, you can safely cover the picture with varnish.

How to pour sugar into a glass: In order to pour sugar into a glass, you need to take a spoon, scoop it up, bring it to the cup and pour it out! ?

Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder

Milling Machine DIY Drawings

Video how to make a cutting machine for metal from a grinder

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If you have to hold a grinder in your hands often enough, you probably managed to feel its disadvantages.

The weak points of the tool stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to fix the parts during cutting, and their slightest vibration can lead to the destruction of the abrasive disc, which in turn is fraught with serious injuries.

Secondly, it is rather difficult to control a clear perpendicularity of the cut with a mobile version of the tool, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the mark and the material being cut, and even hold it if necessary.

Thirdly, it is quite difficult to cut several parts of the same size with a tool.. especially when it comes to twigs and small pipes - after cutting, you also have to trim the details.

And, of course, the employment of both hands and the utmost tedious concentration during work, since the angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools.

What is only worth a kickback - a sudden rejection of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc is jammed in the workpiece. The danger of kickback lies not so much in the rejection of the tool as in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high speeds, fragments of abrasive can seriously injure the operator.

Especially often, a kickback occurs at the end of the cut, when only a small jumper connects the parts.

In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the wheel and cut the part from the back side. A cutting machine, which can be constructed with your own hands from fairly affordable materials, is able to solve all of these problems and provide additional security.

2 Making a cutting machine - a simple option

Related videos

Finding a ready-made machine on store shelves that meets your needs at first glance is a fairly simple task.

But there is hardly a design that is completely made with all the requirements, because the requirements are different for everyone! In such cases, the owners of the machines are trying to improve or remake them, but they face very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys that are very difficult to work with by welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you need specifically - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring.

Remaking someone else's is much more difficult than making your own!

Cutting machine from grinder

Having worked a lot as a grinder, I came to the conclusion that it is possible to operate this useful tool more efficiently.

And here's what I came up with.

■ It is difficult to cut multiple parts of the same length from small pipes, rods, etc.

It takes extra time to trim, and each time you have to set a new mark.

■ It is necessary to constantly control the perpendicularity of the cut, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the tube and the mark, so that there is no error.

■ Vibration of the workpiece during cutting leads to the destruction of the disc in a matter of seconds.

By transferring a hand tool to the category of a stationary one, I eliminated the listed shortcomings.

The machine consists of two frames on a common axis (photo 1, 2).

The lower one was rigidly fixed on a chipboard plate (Fig. 1).

403 Forbidden

The upper one, with a bolted grinder B, rotates vertically, like a pendulum, relative to the lower (Fig. 2). The initial position of the tool is fixed by a tension spring.

To lower the cutting disc, I press the handle of the grinder down. When released, the cutting part returns.

A collapsible attachment unit is welded to the lower frame, consisting of a movable clamp and a pressure bracket (photo 3).

Below is a movable measuring ruler with a limiter welded to the tube.

Having locked the bar with an end screw, I only set the size once (with an accuracy of 1 mm), after which I cut the required number of absolutely identical parts of any size - up to the rings.

I start the machine with a pedal with switching through a low-voltage relay (12 V), which, with its powerful contacts, supplies a voltage of 220 V to B. Accordingly, neither the pedal nor the wire located on the ground, even if the insulation is damaged, poses a danger to humans.

I install, remove and fix B with the help of a clamp, which is used on the top covers of boxes for storing and transporting equipment (like an overlay). The weight and dimensions of the machine allow it to be transported in a car box.

Advantages of development

■ No vice required

■ Gets a very even cut

■ Pedal frees hands

DIY cutting machine

I plan to cook the frame of the stairs to the second floor and for maximum accuracy of cuts at an angle, a cutting machine is needed.

I began to look closely at them, but for some reason the prices are not very childish, and in the economy in the future it will have little use. At the insistence of the interviewees, the option of installing a cutting wheel for metal in a miter saw for wood was discarded.

I decided to pay attention to the fixtures for grinders.

Watched different variants, the price is ****as from 300 to 600 thousand, but in all I did not like the longitudinal play.

Because of this backlash, there can be a run-up in the angle of up to 5 degrees. Nah such happiness? After some thought, I decided to pile myself such an adapter on my own. It's a pity to throw 300 thousand on him.

What I needed:

* grinder

* welding machine

* clamps

From materials, used iron was used, 3 bolts f 16 were bought for fastening the grinder and friends prompted the carriage from the bicycle.

As a result, personal time was spent - it is priceless

4800 for three bolts from speculators

10,000 for cutting wheels

Well, with a dozen electrodes and a couple of kilowatts of electricity.

After the wallpaper has been glued: After wallpapering the walls in the room, do not leave the room to ventilate, as the pasted wallpaper will begin to fall off or become covered.

Keeping nails close at hand: Sometimes we put nails or screws in our mouths, in our pockets, or simply in our hands. It is much better to hang a magnet around your neck. On it, they will be securely held in any quantity and hands and mouth will be free

Homemade vulcanizer - manufacturing and application

If you have a punctured tire, the easiest option is to go to a tire shop. However, there are many who like to do everything themselves, and tire fitting is not always nearby. Sometimes the costs associated with contacting a tire service (road, time, the procedure itself) result in a substantial amount, especially if you have to use this service often.

In general, for various reasons, for those who wish to repair damage at home, I offer several options making a homemade vulcanizer With minimal cost. With the help of a home-made vulcanizer, for example, made from an iron, you can quickly and reliably repair cars, motorcycles and bicycle cameras, air mattresses, heating pads, various apiaries, inflatable toys, etc.

One of the most common options for a homemade vulcanizer is the option using an old iron.

The reason for this is the new, more functional irons, and the old (Soviet) irons, in working order (if you don’t have any left) can be easily found with a neighbor. Here is a free basic part of the vulcanizer for you.

Below are a few designs. Which one to choose is up to you, the main idea is the same, the difference is how to provide a clamp connection at the place of vulcanization of a rubber product.

Raw rubber is soaked (for a while) in gasoline, the size is slightly less than the size of a patch.

The puncture site is treated with sandpaper (size - with a margin), wiped with gasoline. A patch is cut out of auto-chamber rubber, the edges are rounded. The patch is also processed with sandpaper, then with gasoline. Next: raw rubber on the hole, a patch on it, we clamp everything in our vulcanizer. You can put a piece of newspaper underneath to keep the rubber from sticking to the vulcanizer plate.

Wait for the water to boil when it hits the vulcanizer (15-20 minutes). Turn off the vulcanizer, wait a bit, remove the vulcanizer, let the rubber cool. They also check the temperature with the help of granulated sugar: if its grains in contact with the hot vulcanizer begin to melt and turn yellow, then it’s time to turn off the vulcanizer.

If your thermostat works, set it to 150 degrees. (approximately for ironing silk). The thermostat can be adjusted experimentally. If there is a smell of burnt rubber, this is a sign high temperature if the patch is poorly fused (vulcanized) - a sign of insufficient temperature or short vulcanization time.

After one or two times everything becomes clear and vulcanization can be put on stream 🙂

For more specific work, you will need a simple mold, which is made from two steel plates 6-8 mm thick and 40X60 mm in size. Four holes are drilled in the corners and an M4 thread is cut to tighten the halves with screws.

The inner edges of the plates are slightly ground down so that the edges do not cut into the rubber. In the case of a complex configuration of the parts to be repaired, the plates are given an appropriate shape or additional holes and grooves are made.

Before starting work, the treated area is carefully cleaned (the edges of the apiaries are cut at an angle of 45 °) and degreased with light gasoline (B-70).

Then, a patch of the required size from raw rubber is applied to the repaired place, put into the mold and tightly tightened with screws. Putting on a heated iron in such a way that the entire plane of the lower half of the mold touches the heating surface, give an exposure of 10-15 minutes.

During operation, make sure that the rubber does not touch the hot parts of the iron.
Grooves for gluing the belts are drilled with the mold halves tightened, and the diameter of the drill should be equal to the diameter of the belt. It is possible to drill several holes in one mold, for different diameters of the apiaries, however, the distance between them must be no less than the thickness of the workpiece.

Otherwise, the heating of the gluing site will be uneven and the quality of vulcanization will deteriorate.
Cleaning the gluing places or trimming the ends of the apiary is done immediately before work, and the raw rubber is applied in a thin layer - so the connection will be stronger.

Scheme of a vulcanizer with an integrated clamp

Vulcanizer iron: 1 - clamp bracket, 2 - boss, 3 - clamping screw, 4 - clamping heel, 5 - electric iron.

Cut a bracket out of five millimeter steel (see fig.

figure), weld a cylindrical boss to it from above, and on the inside - a strip of metal 50 mm wide. The cross section of the resulting clamp should have a T-shape. Drill a hole along the axis of the boss and cut a thread in it for the clamping screw. Then bolt the body of the iron to the bottom of the Clamp - and the vulcanizer is almost ready.

The easiest option vulcanization with an iron- no modifications at all.

Raw rubber is applied to the cleaned place of the gap, then paper and everything is pressed on top with an iron.

Some weight is placed on the iron. Vulcanization lasts 10-15 minutes, the temperature of the iron is 140-150 ° C (the thermostat is in the “silk” position). Since the exact temperature of the iron is unknown, care must be taken not to burn the rubber.

The smell of burnt rubber indicates too much heat.

Another option homemade vulcanizer from electric stove and clamp

According to the dimensions (diameter and height) of the ceramic base from a household electric stove with an open spiral, a welded heater body is made of iron with a thickness of 5 mm.

Four legs of a bar and a clamp are welded to its walls. Insert a ceramic element with a spiral into the body, on which, to prevent its contact with the metal, it is necessary to put a gasket made of asbestos sheet.

From below the electric heater with the help of two bolts is closed with an iron cover.

The main details of a homemade vulcanizer:
1 - body; 2 - bottom cover; 3 - asbestos gasket; 4 - ceramic base with nichrome spiral; 5 - power cord.

On the upper surface of the housing, near the clamp, a bimetallic thermostat is mounted from a conventional iron, complete with a signal lamp and its resistance.

The electrical circuit of the vulcanizer is similar to that of an iron. By controlling the temperature of the surface of the plate made by the vulcanizer with a mercury or other thermometer, the regulator is adjusted so that it turns off the heating element at a temperature of about 140-150°C.

Do-it-yourself cutting machine for metal

At the same time, the signal light goes out, which indicates that the vulcanizer is turned off. The heating time depends on the power of the heating coil.

And the last option is a camping one that does not require electricity, which can be very useful in case of trouble along the way.

This homemade vulcanizer, made using a piston from a motorcycle or car engine, for the use of which only 40-50 grams of gasoline are needed.

The vulcanizer is easy to manufacture, it includes only a few parts:
1 - the base of the vulcanizer
2 - bolts
3 - beam
4 - piston
5 - self-tapping screws
6 - nuts
7 - holes for self-tapping screws
8 - bolt holes

The base 1 is made of wood, as the wood does not interfere with good heating of the rubber.

Bolts 2 are inserted into the holes of the base and fixed to the base with the help of self-tapping screws 5, from turning in the base hole. . The bolts are made of a metal rod with a diameter of 12mm. A washer is welded on one end of the rod, and an M12 thread is cut on the other.

A beam is put on both bolts from the side of the thread, which, with the help of nuts, presses the vulcanizer piston to the base.
A damaged chamber is placed between the base and the piston.

Materials and design can be changed - only the principle of operation is important.

To repair the camera, you need to find damage, clean it, and wipe it with clean gasoline. Then install a patch of raw rubber on the damaged place and cover with a piece of newspaper, and put the piston on top. We press the piston with the help of a rail with nuts. Pour gasoline into the piston and release a small piece of rag into the gasoline.

We set fire to gasoline and after all the gasoline has burned down, we give time for the piston to cool completely. Only after that we remove the piston.

Repair of the damaged camera is completed. The patch looks like after a conventional vulcanizer - reliable and durable, does not require re-repair.

If you are interested in making a homemade winch

Repair yourself and as they say "not a nail ..."

Do-it-yourself metalworking machines

For each company (factories, factories) the most important is air supply, as well as water cooling, which is necessary in each technological process. For this purpose, special systems with fans are used.

DIY metal cutting machine

Various pumps and fans are do-it-yourself metalworking machines to stabilize the temperature process in production. Special machines control electricity consumption and absorb the effect of noise.

We use scales for every food trading company. Modern scales are an automatic device that accurately measures the weight of goods. The device is equipped with a display and a special keyboard, which allows you to set tariffs for the maintenance of gas equipment in 2016 and display necessary information for seller and buyer.

You can control the leveling from the power supply or charge it from the battery (portable version).

In any office or company, they maintain the optimum air temperature and air exchange with the help of special devices. This is necessary to organize a convenient workflow. Among the various devices we use equipment for mini-smokers: covers, air conditioners of various modifications, ventilation shafts with natural and artificial cooling.

Ventilation can be exhaust, inlet and mechanical.

Important: do-it-yourself metalworking machines

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For manufacturing companies food products, various machines are used that provide an automated workflow.

The automation setting can be defined using some functions in the t-razor for Chelyabinsk. These are different groups of machines that differ depending on the functions performed. All technological operations can be classified in accordance with the principle of the work performed, the device and modes of implementation.

Companies producing semi-finished products for sale in grocery supermarkets are equipped with special refrigerators.

Freezers are the purchase of a 2c132 device that keeps the final product for a fixed period of time. In frozen appliances, ready-made semi-finished products are equipped with a special conveyor belt equipped with a spiral belt.

Do-it-yourself pendulum saw for metal

How is a homemade circular saw made?

  • Circular homemade saw
  • Pendulum circular saw with a powerful electric motor
  • Mini circular saw
    • Making the foundation
    • Engine installation

A homemade mini circular saw will perfectly solve the issue of savings.

Because not everyone House master in order to make small repairs, can afford to purchase it. But sometimes you can't do without such a tool. A homemade circular saw that turns out can perfectly cope with the task associated with small construction, for example, in the country.

In order to make repairs at home or in the country, you need a circular saw, and you can do it yourself.

Circular homemade saw

A circular homemade saw is designed to saw logs.

The thickness of the logs that this equipment can cut depends on the power of the electric drive.

Assembly diagram of a circular saw.

If it is necessary to cut thick blocks of wood, a shaft, a belt drive and the most powerful engine are placed on these saws.

Any do-it-yourself circular saw made consists of a lower and an upper part.

Electrical equipment is installed at the bottom:

  • transformer
  • engine
  • starting device.

Attached to the top:

The frame of the upper part of the saw is best made from a 25 mm metal corner.

The approximate dimensions of the rectangle in the form of which the upper part is presented are 600x400 mm. Pipes are welded in its corners (recommended height #8211 is 2.2 m, and diameter #8211 is 17 mm).

Additionally, 2 corners are fixed along the frame and to strengthen the bearings. The distance between them is determined by the size of the shaft.

Well, another cutting machine 🙂

Clamps are used to secure the bearings. Chips will not get stuck between rings, balls and cage when sealed bearings are supplied.

A thread must be made at the end of the shaft so that the disk is clamped.

Scheme of the bearing assembly of a circular saw.

The lower part is best made massive so that the circular saw is stable. For the manufacture of the frame for this part, a 40 mm corner is used. To fix the engine, it is necessary to additionally strengthen 2 corners across the frame. An asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of 1.5 kW and 1500 rpm is the best option for a circular saw made by hand.

The pulley stream has an internal size of 80 mm, it is mounted on the shaft. There is also a need to weld a small platform in order to fix the launcher on it.

Pipes having a length of 2.2 m, welded to the corners of the frame, are needed to tension the belt so that the metal lambs press the thin pipes.

After that, the lower and upper parts of the hand-held circular saw are embedded in the supports, the role of which is played by pipes, then the belt is tightened and tightened with lambs. Starting an asynchronous motor in this model homemade saw carried out through the starting capacitors.

To additionally load the engine and increase the torque, it is possible to use a 220/36 400 W transformer, the connection of which is made according to an autotransformer circuit. Doesn't have special significance in the operation of the circuit, the location of the capacitor and transformer.

Pendulum circular saw with a powerful electric motor

Scheme of a table for a circular saw with a lifting-lowering mechanism.

Mini circular saw

With this indispensable tool for home construction, you can cut any material and at any desired angle.

This means doing all the work associated with the rotating saw blade. Now let's look at how a mini circular saw is made with your own hands.

Making the foundation

It is very important to achieve perfect parallelism of the inner edges of the plate. Fastening the tool from below to the table will be carried out so that the circular saw is between the sheets of the tabletop in the middle of the gap. A mini circular saw is attached to the drilled holes on the table in this position.

Cut hand tool a profile, a pipe or some other workpiece strictly perpendicular to the axis and cleanly is not an easy task, but with the help of an electric pendulum saw - mere trifles.

The device consists of a base frame and a sheet of metal (or a sheet of durable plastic), pivotally connected by an axis on one side.

On the frame with the side opposite the axis, a corner is welded parallel to it, in which pipes or profiles are laid for cutting.

An electric motor and a shaft connected by a drive belt are fixed on the top sheet. Don't forget to attach a handy handle.

At the opposite end of the shaft from the pulley, a clamp is made for attaching a cutting wheel or circular saw.

Such a pendulum saw can cut almost everything: metal, plastic, wood (even logs). When sawing logs, the lower frame rotates around the hinge axis by 180 ′.

In this position, it is fixed with something, for example, an assistant can stand on it. In order not to move a heavy log after each saw, it is easier to carry the saw along it.

Blanks can be cut at different angles. To do this, the corner on which the workpiece is placed must be fixed to the base frame not by welding, but by bolts and provide for the possibility of installing it at different angles to the saw blade.

Details of the saw blade shaft assembly

1-shaft, 2-bearing bracket, 3-saw blade bushing clamps, 4-pulley.

DIY pendulum saw

It is useful to replenish the arsenal of metal-cutting machines of a home workshop with a pendulum saw.

You can fix it on a workbench, next to the bench vise, in which the workpiece is clamped. The working tool of the saw is an abrasive disk. Hardened to any hardness steel bars, angles, pipes, sheets and even metlakh tile, porcelain and glass, and the cut surface is quite clear. If you replace the blade with a saw with a fine tooth, then you can cut wood, plywood or plastic, while a diamond blade will make it possible to process stones.

To secure the workpiece, it is convenient to use a rotary vice, in this case, cutting can be done at an angle, which is very convenient when preparing parts for welding.

Various attachments to the saw allow you to make shallow cuts and grooves, and even turn it into a regular circular saw.

For such a saw, you will need a single-phase electric motor with a power of 340 W (from an electric grinder) or a three-phase AOL 21-2 type with a power of 400 W with a rotation speed of 2800 rpm.

Transfer of rotation to the spindle of the machine - V-belt type A-I018 from the GAZ-24 car.

Rice. 1 Pendulum saw: 1 - electric motor, 2 - support, 3 - protective casing of the tool, 4 - tool (abrasive disc), 5 - protective casing of the belt, 6 - V-belt A-1018, 7 - screw M8X14 mm, 8 - drive pulley (D 16) , 9 - belt cover (steel), 1C - driven pulley (D 16), 11 - spacer (steel), 12 - washer (steel), 13 - pendulum feed handle, 14 - M6X12 mm bolt, 15 - M5 screw X10 mm, 16 - shaft (steel), 17 - cover (D 16), 18 - cover (D 16), 19 - sleeve (steel), 20 - washer (steel), 21 - nut (steel), 22 - ball bearing No. 203.

23 - body (steel), 24 - boss (steel), 25 - M6X8 mm screw. 26 - M8 X 16 mm screw, 27 - boss (steel), 28 - frame (steel), 20 - M6X16 mm bolt, 30 - 1/2 "pipe (steel), 31 - axle (steel), 32 - bushing ( steel), 33 - washer, 34 - M10 nut, 35 - plate (steel), 36 - intermediate housing (D 16).

The basis of the saw is a spinal frame of square section, to which the spindle body is welded on one side, and on the other - a plate for installing the engine. A 1/2" pipe is passed through the groove in the frame - it is the body of the swing axis of the saw.

When performing welding work, make sure that the axis of the motor shaft, the spindle shaft and the swing axis of the saw are strictly parallel. After welding, be sure to straighten the frame, clean the welds and paint with nitro enamel with a preliminary primer.

Belt guard and abrasive disc guard made of 2 mm thick sheet steel.

It is best to weld blanks from the inside with a fillet weld. The belt guard is bolted directly to the motor and frame, to which the abrasive disc guard is also screwed.

The drive handle is located on the removable cover of the belt cover.

Stuff the spindle bearings with CIATIM-221 grease before assembly.

Insert felt rings impregnated with liquid lubricant into the grooves of the bearings.

At the assembled saw, the engine must outweigh the spindle and be at the bottom, between the supports, otherwise, when the saw is turned on, the abrasive may hit the workpiece and crumble.

Rice. 2 Pendulum saw attachments:A - for cutting grooves: 1 - belt drive housing, 2 - bracket, 3 - work table fixed in a vise

B - for cutting sheet material: 1 - belt drive casing, 2 - folding table, 3 - hinge, 4, 5 - brackets.

Cases for bolts and nails: For convenient storage of bolts, nails, screws, etc.

It is very convenient to use jars with screw-on lids. Nail the lids to the bottom of the wall cabinet and screw the jars with the contents into the bottom. Now every little thing will be in its place.

Fleas in cats and dogs. An excellent way to fight.: A cat, dog or other animal can be freed from fleas by bathing it in a decoction of tobacco. After that, wash with warm water.

It is useful to replenish the arsenal of metal-cutting machines of a home workshop with a pendulum saw. You can fix it on a workbench, next to the bench vise, in which the workpiece is clamped. The working tool of the saw is an abrasive disk. Steel bars, angles, pipes, sheets and even metlakh tiles, porcelain and glass are hardened to any hardness, and the cut surface is quite clear. If you replace the blade with a saw with a fine tooth, then you can cut wood, plywood or plastic, while a diamond blade will make it possible to process stones.

To secure the workpiece, it is convenient to use a rotary vice, in this case, cutting can be done at an angle, which is very convenient when preparing parts for welding.

Various attachments to the saw allow you to make shallow cuts and grooves, and even turn it into a regular "circular".

For such a saw, you will need a single-phase electric motor with a power of 340 W (from an electric grinder) or a three-phase AOL 21-2 type with a power of 400 W with a rotation speed of 2800 rpm. Transfer of rotation to the spindle of the machine - V-belt type A-I018 from the GAZ-24 car.

1 - electric motor, 2 - support, 3 - protective casing of the tool, 4 - tool (abrasive disc), 5 - protective casing of the belt, 6 - V-belt A-1018, 7 - screw M8X14 mm, 8 - drive pulley (D 16) , 9 - belt cover (steel), 1C - driven pulley (D 16), 11 - spacer (steel), 12 - washer (steel), 13 - pendulum feed handle, 14 - M6X12 mm bolt, 15 - M5 screw X10 mm, 16 - shaft (steel), 17 - cover (D 16), 18 - cover (D 16), 19 - sleeve (steel), 20 - washer (steel), 21 - nut (steel), 22 - ball bearing No. 203. 23 - body (steel), 24 - boss (steel), 25 - screw M6X8 mm. 26 - screw M8 X 16 mm, 27 - boss (steel), 28 - frame (steel), 20 - bolt M6X16 mm, 30 - pipe 1/2 "" (steel), 31 - axle (steel), 32 - bushing (steel), 33 - washer, 34 - M10 nut, 35 - plate (steel), 36 - intermediate housing (D 16).

The basis of the saw is a spinal frame of square section, to which the spindle body is welded on one side, and on the other - a plate for installing the engine. A 1/2"" pipe is passed through the groove in the frame - it is the body of the swing axis of the saw. When performing welding work, make sure that the axis of the motor shaft, the spindle shaft and the swing axis of the saw are strictly parallel. After welding, be sure to straighten the frame, clean the welds and paint with nitro enamel with a preliminary primer.

Belt guard and abrasive disc guard made of 2 mm thick sheet steel. It is best to weld blanks from the inside with a fillet weld. The belt guard is bolted directly to the motor and frame, to which the abrasive disc guard is also screwed. The drive handle is located on the removable cover of the belt cover.

Stuff the spindle bearings with CIATIM-221 grease before assembly. Insert felt rings impregnated with liquid lubricant into the grooves of the bearings.

At the assembled saw, the engine must outweigh the spindle and be at the bottom, between the supports, otherwise, when the saw is turned on, the abrasive may hit the workpiece and crumble.

Rice. 2 Pendulum saw attachments:

A - for cutting grooves:

1 - belt drive casing, 2 - bracket, 3 - desktop, fixed in a vice;

B - for cutting sheet material:

1 - belt drive casing, 2 - folding table, 3 - hinge, 4, 5 - brackets.

When working on a pendulum saw, it is necessary to strictly observe the safety regulations. The supply cable must be protected from mechanical damage by a steel flexible hose, which can be taken from the shower hose. The electric motor, as well as the saw itself, must be properly grounded. Fix the working tool on the shaft only with a nut with a left-hand thread. It is dangerous to operate the saw without safety goggles.

If during the operation of the device the drive belt loosens, it must be tightened, for which it is enough to lay a plate of the required thickness between the frame plate and the engine.

V. ZAYTSEV, design engineer
"Model Designer" 1985, No. 12

From this article you can learn how to make a cutting machine for metal with your own hands at home using the simplest materials. It details all the stages of creating structures based on a cutting disc or grinder: preparation of materials and tools, calculation formulas, detailed step-by-step instruction, as well as related information with useful tips.

A do-it-yourself cutting machine for metal will allow you to get equipment that is ideally suited to the needs of the owner

Disc cutting machines are tools based on a special platform or frame made of metal. The machine itself is equipped with parts that ensure reliable fixation of the material in a certain position under required angle in the process of cutting.

As a cutting element in such designs, a disk made of high-speed steel is used. It is also called carbide. It can also be used for cutting metal circle coated in the form of abrasive material. The cutting element is driven by an electric motor with a belt or gear transmission.


Note! In low-power versions of the tool, it is allowed to use a cutting element mounted directly on the shaft of an electric motor. In other cases, such use of the disc can be dangerous.

Disc machines have three different feeds of the cutting component:

  • lower;
  • pendulum;
  • frontal.

By the number of cutting elements, machines are:

  • single-head - the device package includes only one cutting disc, therefore, if it is necessary to replace the operation, the cutting edge is readjusted in accordance with the new task;
  • two-head - the design makes it possible to work with two tools at once, thereby increasing efficiency. In such machines, one head is in a fixed position and remains stable, the second head can move. Two-head designs can carry out work automatically.


Making a disk cutting machine for metal with your own hands: procedure

In the manufacture of a machine designed to work with metal, the actions are performed in the following order:

  1. Protective covers are being prepared that will be installed on the drive belt, as well as the cutting disc.
  2. The motor is installed. A drive belt acts as a connecting piece between the shaft of the cutting element and the engine.
  3. A shaft is being made on which the drive pulley will be fixed, and a cutting disc will also be installed. The assembly is subject to assembly and subsequent installation on the pendulum. In this case, the movable upper part of the structure acts as a pendulum, where the cutting element and the motor are located.
  4. A shaft is being made for attaching the pendulum.
  5. A frame is being made to install the machine. The spark arrester and the workpiece will be fixed on it.
  6. The pendulum is mounted on the frame.
  7. Electrical wiring is being installed.
  8. A trial run of the tool and equipment adjustment is carried out.


As a cutting element, a disk made of high-speed steel is used, or a circle coated in the form of an abrasive material.

Calculation of a pulley for a homemade cutting machine for metal

The calculation of the pulley diameter is carried out taking into account the rotational speed of the disk and other parameters. If we assume that the motor power is at least 300 W, the rotational speed of the disk will be at least 3000 rpm, and its size in diameter will be 40 cm.

Helpful advice! In the process of cutting metal, the nut in the disc fixation area can be turned away. To avoid this, it is recommended to place the drive pulleys on the left side, and the disk itself on the shaft on the right.

Typically, discs are marked by the manufacturer, who puts on the product the maximum allowable rotational speed. In this case, the indicator is 4400 rpm. Therefore, it is allowed to select any speed within the range of 3000-4400 rpm.

Data for calculations:

  • rotational speed of the motor - 1500 rpm;
  • the diameter of the pulley intended for installation on the shaft is 6.5 cm;
  • rotational speed of the disk - 3000 rpm.


The calculation is performed in the following sequence:

  1. Set the length of the shaft around the perimeter. To do this, the number π, which is equal to 3.14, is multiplied by the size of the diameter: 3.14 x 6.5 = 20.41 cm (shaft length around the perimeter).
  2. The resulting value is multiplied by required amount revolutions: 20.41 x 3000 rpm. = 61230 cm/min.
  3. The result must be divided by the number of engine revolutions: 61230 cm / min / 1500 rpm. = 40.82 cm (motor pulley length around the perimeter).
  4. The resulting value is divided by the number π: 40.82 cm / 3.14 \u003d 13 cm (required pulley size).

Calculation of the length of the belt for a homemade cutting machine for metal with your own hands

To perform these calculations, you will need the following data:

  • drive pulley parameters (radius);
  • the distance separating the center points of the pulleys;
  • driven pulley parameters (radius).

Having 2 pulleys with dimensional parameters of 13 cm and 6.5 cm, you can make the necessary calculations. Since the distance between the centers of these elements can be changed (since it is necessary to bring the belt into a state of tension), a 50 cm long segment will be taken as an example.


First pulley (circumference):

3.14 (pi number) x 3.25 cm = 10.20 cm

Second pulley (circumference):

3.14 (pi number) x 6.5 cm = 20.41 cm

Drive belt (required length):

20.41 cm + 10.20 cm + 50 cm x 2 = 13.06 cm

Helpful advice! To get a more accurate result, you should make calculations with the maximum and minimum distance between the center points of the pulleys and choose an average value.

To independently make the design of the machine for working with metal, you should prepare the necessary tools.


Mandatory set of tools and materials includes:

  • welding machine;
  • metal corner (steel);
  • channel and chain;
  • button to turn on / off;
  • bearings;
  • shaft and electric motor;
  • electric drill;
  • sheet steel to create a working surface;
  • a box for placing the electrical components of the machine.

The principles of creating a machine for cutting metal

Manufacturing scheme homemade machine obeys certain principles, they must be taken into account before getting down to business:

  • it is very important to choose the right gear and carry out its installation. The safety of the torque and its correct transmission from the engine to the cutting element (disk) depend on this component;
  • must be provided for. This tool contributes to more comfortable work, and also increases the degree of its safety;


  • choice optimal angle cutting. The allowable range is within 45-90°. In most cases, experts prefer cutting at right angles;
  • diameter cutting disc is selected taking into account what materials the master will work with on this machine in the future. The larger the diameter of the cutting element, the easier it will be to cope with cutting thick metal;
  • when designing and drawing up drawings, such indicators as the dimensions of the future machine and its weight must be taken into account. These values ​​are directly affected by the materials from which the equipment will be made. The layout of parts also matters.

Note! When drawing up drawings, special attention should be paid to vibration mounts that are installed on the legs.

Assembling a metal frame for a cutting machine

After all the tools are prepared and the drawings are selected, you can go directly to the process of creating the machine. Using, it is necessary to make the frame part of the structure. In accordance with the drawings, which can be compiled independently or found on the network, frame elements are cut out. All of them are interconnected by welding. First you need to check the conformity of the sizes.


A channel is welded to the upper part of the frame - it will become a guide element and will serve as the basis for further installation of the cutting component on the machine. This channel will become peculiar link between the electric motor and the cutting element. After that, vertically arranged racks are fixed on it with bolts.

You will need to weld the design of another frame. Dimensional parameters are selected individually, taking into account the dimensions of the electric motor and its features. When choosing an electric motor for a machine, it is better to pay attention to modifications of the asynchronous type. This type equipment is characterized by increased reliability and durability.

There is one subtlety when choosing a motor. The more powerful the engine, the smoother the drive will be.

Assembly of the electrical component for the machine

Installation of equipment involves the installation and connection of the working shaft to the electric motor of the machine. The way in which this can be done is not critical. If the drawings contain instructions for performing this procedure, it is better to follow it, since the correct operation and reliability of the tool depends on the quality of the installation.


Helpful advice! Some parts that you can’t make yourself can be ordered from a turner. These include flanges for fixing, as well as a pulley.

To fix the motor on a metal frame, it is better to use a bolted connection with nuts. Not far from the engine, it is recommended to place a box where the switch and electrical circuit are located, as well as a remote control for controlling the tool.

The channel, designed to fix the cutting disc, is best placed on a spring. You need to make sure that when you release it, it returns to its original place. To fix the spring, you can take bolts and a clamp.

The electrical component is the most important part of the tool. Be sure to include in the design a chain for starting, as well as a button for emergency shutdown of the machine. It is necessary to achieve such an arrangement of parts in which the electric motor will be connected to electricity through an automatic machine and a box, and not directly. A three-way starting machine will be enough to turn on and fully start the engine. It will also power the off button.

Finally, it is worth taking care of the presence of protective devices that will protect a person in the process of work. To do this, you need to make a protective cover. It will prevent sparks and small metal particles from getting into the eyes.


Making a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands: drawings, technology

The designs of cutting machines made on the basis of a grinder are of two types (depending on the location of the grinder).

In the first case, a bed is obtained on which the angle grinder is very rigidly fixed. Only the disk rises above the working surface, for which there is a special slot in the table. Such a machine operates on the principle of a circular saw.

Note! In the process of working with such a machine, you have to move the workpiece yourself, because of which the accuracy of work is lost. In addition, this process can be unsafe, so drawings with a hidden type of grinder placement are not in high demand.

The second option assumes that the workpiece remains stationary, and the cutting element moves. Due to the fact that the grinder is located on top of the countertop, cutting parts does not require serious effort.


List of tools and materials for a do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder

At self-manufacturing tool, it should be borne in mind that the accuracy with which it will work depends largely on the stability of the structure. For this reason, the thickness of materials for manufacturing is associated not so much with the requirements for the strength of the machine body, but with the need to ensure the proper level of rigidity.

List of materials:

  • profiled pipe with square section(2.5x2.5x0.25 cm);
  • sheet steel (sheet thickness 0.4-0.5 cm);
  • profiled pipe with a rectangular section (4x2x0.25 cm);
  • ball bearings - 2 pcs. (No. 203, 204 or 202);
  • calibrated bar no more than 10 cm (thickness is selected taking into account the hole on the inner race of the bearing);
  • metal bar (diameter 0.8-1 cm);
  • fasteners (bolts with nuts, thread M or M8);
  • metal tire (2x0.4 cm).


List of tools:

  • angle grinder;
  • electric drill (can be replaced with a drilling machine);
  • kit ;
  • a set of dies designed to form a metal thread;
  • apparatus for welding;
  • wrenches.

Choosing the right cutting tool for a homemade cutting machine from a grinder

Angle grinder is the main node of the machine for working with metal. Experts do not recommend using a small tool for these purposes, which has a power of no more than 500-600 watts. In such grinders, cutting discs have a diameter of no more than 12.5 cm. These limitations are due to the fact that a cutting element with a large diameter is considered universal and very reliable - it is able to cope with cutting thick workpieces.

Helpful advice! Instead of welding to fix parts, threaded connections can be used, however, they are less reliable and cannot provide required level strength.

  1. Preparation and manufacture of parts for the frame.
  2. The arrangement of the swivel on the pendulum lever.
  3. Production of a U-shaped bracket with holes for mounting the gearbox of a grinding machine.
  4. Making a U-shaped clamp and a strap that will fix the body of the grinder on the pendulum.
  5. Mounting the U-shaped clamp and the U-shaped bracket to the cutting tool: by welding or threaded connection, all these parts are attached to the cantilever part.
  6. Pressing bearings into bearings.
  7. Double-sided pressing of bearing assemblies onto the shaft. To increase the strength of the connection, you can tin the axis with a thin layer of tin using a soldering iron.
  8. Fixing the pendulum with the supporting nodal parts on the edge of the platform (indentation from the edge 0.5-0.6 cm) using a welding machine.
  9. Installation of the grinder and protective casing.
  10. Mounting the return spring.

After the structure is assembled, it is necessary to perform a test run and check the correct operation of the equipment, as well as the placement of all parts on it. On final stage the groove is adjusted to the cutting element, supports are installed to secure the workpieces.

When finishing is completed, the body of the machine must be covered with a thin layer of enamel. Staining will protect the instrument from damage that rust can cause.

An indispensable tool in the home workshop, locksmith shop, on the construction site. Many industrial models of these tools are produced, but their price is sometimes not available not only to a private master, but also to a small enterprise. There is a way out - a cutting machine for metal with your own hands is not difficult to do. This requires only certain skills to work with welding machine, a plumbing tool, and some electrician qualifications. Of the materials, too, you will not need anything scarce, or not available for free sale.

For work you will need:

  • Bulgarian;
  • welding machine;
  • drill;
  • a set of dies, taps, wrenches.

You will have to buy an electric motor with a power of 1.5-2 kW, single-phase or three-phase. In addition, you will need two pulleys, a shaft, bearings 204 or 205, a metal corner, sheet steel 2-4 mm thick. When all this is assembled, the actual manufacture of the machine begins.

You can make drawings yourself using material from the Internet, or use ready-made ones, for example, these. But experience shows that it is best to adapt the drawings to the materials that you have available. As a rule, DIY designs work best when you “customize” them for yourself. Naturally, in this case, certain rules and requirements that are put forward for a tool of increased danger, such as a cutting disc machine or a pendulum saw, both home-made and industrial, should be observed.

Most do-it-yourself cutting machines for metal belong to the pendulum type. more difficult to manufacture, but they can be made in a small workshop or metalworking shop. For now, let's focus on the most convenient type of cutting machine - a disk one. The overall design can be seen in the video.

It consists of several main nodes:

  • electric motor;
  • pendulum;
  • drive mechanism;
  • cutting disc;
  • desktop.

Let's consider them separately.

Engine

Depending on the required power of the metal-cutting machine and the scope of its use, we select the engine power. It should be in the range of 1.5-3kW. If you plan to use the cutting machine in a home workshop, a small metalworking workshop where cutting profile pipe, fittings, angle or other rolled products are produced relatively rarely, and thin-walled metal is used as blanks, in terms of power of one and a half kilowatts, it will be enough. Small-scale production, construction site work, or frame making for any purpose will require a more powerful engine.

If there is a three-phase motor with a power of about 3 kilowatts, it can be connected to 220 volts using the place of the "star" circuit, the "triangle" circuit. But at the same time, it must be borne in mind that its power will decrease by 25-30%. The main thing is that the number of revolutions indicated on the nameplate will remain.

For installation on a cutting machine for metal, the engine must have a number of revolutions equal to 2500-3000 per minute. This is due to the fact that it is at such speeds that the cutting disc works optimally.

For a home-made cutting machine for metal, circles with a diameter of 300-400 millimeters are used. Here, too, it is necessary to proceed from the needs of production. It is not worth chasing too large a disc diameter - the farther the working edge is from the center, the less cutting force, and a more powerful engine will be required. The optimal ratio of engine power and disk diameter is 2 kilowatts at three thousand revolutions and 300 millimeters in diameter.

A self-made cutting machine for metal must first of all be safe. Cutting discs are marked with the maximum number of revolutions at which they can be operated. As a rule, it should not exceed 4400 rpm. If you get more - the disk may be destroyed, which is unsafe. If the number of revolutions is less than 3000, then the cutting speed will be insufficient, and the disc will overheat and wear out. It is these figures that should be taken as the starting points for calculating the power transmission.

Drive unit

As a drive mechanism, it is most convenient to use a belt drive. To do this, you will have to find two pulleys of the same diameter. One of them is mounted on the motor shaft, the second - on the drive shaft of the cutting disc. The disc shaft is mounted on two bearings. It is best to use the scheme when the drive mechanism is located on the left of the disk mounting cloud. So it is more convenient to work, and safety rules are observed. The clamping nut of the disc will not be at risk of loosening.

To tension the drive belt, the engine is fixed at the back of the pendulum with 4 bolts located in the longitudinal slots. It can be displaced in the direction of the central axis of the machine (perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the motor shaft) by 5-7 centimeters. This will maintain proper belt tension and prevent belt slippage. It will also be easier to replace the belt if the previous one becomes unusable.

Console (pendulum)

The console part of the cutting machine for metal is one of the most important. In addition to the fact that it must be carefully balanced, securely welded in compliance with all the necessary dimensions, it must also move strictly perpendicular to the desktop. The pendulum mount is based on two vertical posts with slots for the pendulum bushing (diameter 10-12 mm). It is best to make them from a steel square of 40x40 millimeters. The height is approximately 80-100 millimeters, but you can also calculate your own version.

A shaft-sleeve is horizontally installed in the holes of the racks, to which a rocker is welded, consisting of two levers, the ratio of which is one to three. A platform for the installation of an electric motor is welded on a short arm. On the long arm is the cutting wheel drive shaft. The ratio of the length of the levers is approximate, it must be calculated so that in the non-working position the weight of the engine outweighs the weight of the assembled saw part (with protective covers). To bring the disk of the turned on machine into contact with the metal, it is necessary to apply a small but tangible force.

For ease of operation, a return spring is attached to the bottom of the engine platform, and the angle of deviation of the pendulum upwards is regulated by a cable or chain, fixed at one end to the table, and at the other - to the bottom of the long lever.

Desktop

The optimal dimensions are 700x1000x900 mm. It is welded from a corner of 25x25 mm and covered with a steel sheet 3-4 mm thick, in which slots are made in the disk rotation zone. A swivel stop and a clamp with a swivel clamp are fixed on the table. This allows you to cut both perpendicularly and at the required angle. Very interesting option homemade machine is shown in the video. Here it is not the workpiece that turns, but the console with the disk and the engine.

Mounting a disc-type cutting machine for a qualified locksmith is not particularly difficult. It is important to adhere to some fundamental requirements:

  • correctly calculate the speed of rotation of the disk;
  • adjust the angle of rotation, it must be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the desktop;
  • set the force of feeding the disk into the cutting zone;
  • install an emergency stop button on the handle;
  • equip the cutting machine with protective covers for the disc and rotating parts.

The pendulum saw is a power tool for working on wood and metal with your own hands. The device provides a fast and accurate cut of workpieces. Many people think that the pendulum saw and reciprocating saw are identical units. In fact, there are certain differences between them.

The saw performs reciprocating movements during operation. The saber works the same way.

A cutting pendulum electric saw is a fairly compact machine, where the cutting tool is a disk and is mounted vertically on a special pendulum.

The size of the device, depending on the model and power, may vary. The pendulum provides the ability to raise and lower the cutting blade when working on metal or wood.

The range is extensive, which allows the buyer to choose such popular saws as Makita, Zubr, PM 400, etc.

Device Features

Drawing of a typical saw device

  • Circular and pendulum saws have approximately the same principle of operation;
  • The main difference between the devices is that with a disc cutting tool and the engine are fixed motionless, while with a pendulum device they rise and fall due to the pendulum;
  • Cutting pendulum installation provides a high-precision cut at a right angle;
  • Additionally, tools such as PM 400, PM 55, Interskol, Zubr, Makita, KD 300, PM 70 and other representatives of the pendulum saw segment are capable of cutting at an angle;
  • Often, a cutting system for cutting wood or metal includes an abrasive disc;
  • The use of appropriate disks allows you to work efficiently. To process a particular product, you just need to replace the canvas;
  • The canvas can also be universal, allowing you to cut all kinds of workpieces with one disc;
  • A modern pendulum electric saw for cutting workpieces is distinguished by the fact that the cutting blade and disk can be replaced in the shortest possible time. The leaders of the segment in the face of PM 70, PM 55, KD 300, Zubr, Makita, Interskol, PM 400, etc. differ in this;
  • Each cutting tool must be equipped with protection systems. This is because the rotating cutting blade is potentially hazardous;
  • By selecting the desired size of the device, you can cut blanks at home;
  • Manufacturers offer both domestic and industrial models.


With quite significant advantages, a detachable pendulum electric saw has several disadvantages.

  1. For sawing, you have to apply considerable effort, as when using a grinder.
  2. The cut-off saw has certain restrictions on the width of the material being cut.
  3. The device does not have high performance, therefore it often serves as an auxiliary equipment in factories or in home workshops.

The estimated price of devices for home use is from 12 to 40 thousand rubles.

How it works

To perform cutting of materials, you need to find out exactly how a pendulum-type electric saw functions.

  • A pendulum saw can safely be called a circular saw. Here the circular is mounted on a special frame;
  • The machine works from the mains;
  • Factory models can be equipped with special turntables, due to which the device is used as a miter box. This function cannot be called necessary, but sometimes its relevance is in demand;
  • The cutting-off electric saw got its name due to the fact that the cutting blade is lowered with its own hands along the pendulum path onto the workpiece, and when the cutting ends, it rises to its original position;
  • Depending on which canvas is used, what is the size and power of the device, factory and homemade electric saw can cut metal, wood, tiles, porcelain, plastic, glass, etc.;
  • Cutting discs are used to cut metal. They can be borrowed from the grinder;
  • If it is a tree, a canvas from a circular is used.

reciprocating saw

In home workshops, grinders, circular saws, pendulum saws, reciprocating saw. All of them have their own design and technical features.

So that you don't have trouble finding the differences between a pendulum saw and a reciprocating saw, let's make some things clear.

  • A home reciprocating saw is great for the job;
  • Like a pendulum, a reciprocating saw can be equipped with special blades for wood or metal, or universal cutting tools;
  • The reciprocating electric saw is distinguished by reciprocating movements;
  • The device has a compact size, it is convenient to use in a home workshop;
  • A reciprocating electric saw is a great alternative to a hand saw, which has certain limitations and difficulties in operation;
  • The main disadvantage that a reciprocating saw has is vibration during operation. Especially noticeable vibrations occur when working on wood or metal of great thickness.

Do-it-yourself pendulum machine

When there are a variety of devices on the market and a completely appropriate question arises about the relevance of homemade saws.

A homemade saw usually has small size construction, shaft, a compact prefix assembled by hand is used. You can make a device from a grinder, an electric drill or just an electric motor.

Some manage to create a worthy alternative for Makita and Zubr saws. Cutting wood and metal homemade devices often surpasses factory models. To achieve what you want, you will need to pick up the drawings, take the engine from the grinder, electric drill or other device, watch the video and photo of the unit assembly guide.

  1. First you need to take an electric motor. The first home-made installation may well be an attachment to an electric drill. Experts advise for cutting in a home workshop to use an electric motor from a grinder for a pendulum saw.
  2. From the grinder's engine, rotation to the spindle can be transmitted using belt drives. Perfect for these purposes homemade design based on a wedge automobile belt.
  3. If the attachment to the electric drill is not your option, then to fix the future pendulum device, build a frame out of metal. Used metal square section.
  4. On the one hand, the spindle housing is welded to the metal frame, and on the other, there will be a platform for installing the grinder engine. Don't forget the shaft size. Correctly choosing the size of the shaft is extremely important for the device to turn out right. Usually, the size of the shaft is indicated in the drawings, on the basis of which home-made pendulum saws are assembled.
  5. Be sure to make a groove in the frame that is necessary to pass the saw's rolling axis. For these purposes, again, with the help of a grinder, cut a piece of pipe.
  6. When welding the frame, make sure that the rolling axis, grinder motor and spindle are parallel.
  7. Think about the issue of a protective casing, which is usually made from a sheet of metal. A drive handle is installed on the belt cover.

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