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Which insulation for the ceiling to choose or 3 available ways self-insulation ceiling

When the question arises about maintaining heat in the house, the first thing that an ordinary person immediately remembers is the insulation of walls and floors. But such a one-sided approach is fundamentally wrong, because even from school course everyone knows that warm air rises and if you do not take into account the ceiling, then all other efforts and investments will be in vain. In this article I will talk about which ceiling insulation is best to use and how to use three different ways insulate the ceiling in the house.

What to consider when choosing a material

When choosing a heater, there are several main evaluation criteria - this is the level of vapor permeability, flammability, weight and strength of the material itself, there is also a price, but this is more of a personal matter.

Ceilings only at first glance to an uninitiated person may seem different, in reality there are only 2 types of floors - concrete and wood:

• With concrete floor slabs, everything is simple, they do not burn and are distinguished by an enviable bearing capacity. By itself, concrete is considered to be partially vapor-permeable. But for floor slabs, this indicator is so low that when choosing which insulation it is better to equip the ceiling, it can simply be ignored;
• Attic floors in private houses are often mounted on a wooden base, and wood, as you know, is a living material that burns well and passes steam quite well. So if you block the access of air, then the rafters will sooner or later begin to rot. At the same time, combustible insulation under the arch wooden house Is it dangerous.

Now we have reached one of the main parameters, which directly affects how to choose a heater. This is the location of the insulating layer. After all, the ceiling can be insulated both from the inside of the room and from above, that is, from the unheated side.

For an amateur, the simplest, most affordable and inexpensive option this arrangement is attic floor. After all, you must admit that here a person does not need to “fence” improvised scaffolding and balance on them, hemming the ceiling from below.

In addition, the question of how thick the insulation should be, for outdoor installation, actually disappears, the more the better, there is enough space. Moreover, both slab and bulk material can be used.

Installation from the inside is a completely different matter. Really high ceilings are not so common in our houses, which means that every centimeter will have to be borrowed from the living space. In my experience, owners rarely agree to "lower" the ceiling by more than 150 mm. Accordingly, the insulation must be selected light, durable and with the lowest possible thermal conductivity.

An uninsulated attic floor is one of the most vulnerable building structures in relation to heat loss. Through it, from 20 to 40% of the thermal energy needed by the residents easily “disappears” into the atmosphere.

The percentage of losses depends on the material used in the construction of the truss frame, and on the type of roofing used in the arrangement of the roof.

Insulation of the ceiling in the house with cold roof provide a significant reduction in heat loss. We will talk about how thermal insulation works are carried out.

We list in detail what materials will be required for the implementation of activities. Taking into account our recommendations, you can significantly increase the energy efficiency of the building.

The ceiling is insulated if a non-residential attic is located above it, respectively, not equipped with thermal insulation.

It is not used as a living space in winter, therefore, it does not need to lay a layer of insulation on the slopes. Often this is just a warehouse for inventory and a room for drying mushrooms / berries.

The non-residential attic itself plays the role of an air chamber that prevents the movement of heat waves both inside the building and out. However, to dry the wooden elements of the frame structure, roofing, metal fasteners cold attic usually equipped with effective ventilation.

Ventilate it naturally, i.e. regular ventilation without the use of any mechanisms. The system operates without coercion. Air moves due to the difference in temperature with pressure outside the attic and inside it.

The air flow enters the attic space through the dormer windows in the summer and the gaps framing them in the winter, when a rarefaction forms inside. It is removed spontaneously, displaced by a new portion coming from the street.

For building structures, constant air circulation is really necessary. But along with the continuously moving air masses, heat is blown out of the attic. As a result, instead of saving it to save energy resources, additional costs are obtained.

How to deal with them? Be sure to warm up! Warming is carried out in two standard ways, these are:

• Thermal insulation device on the ceiling from above. Those. from the side of the attic, foamed polymer slabs, mineral wools are placed on the reinforced concrete floor or between wooden logs, expanded clay is poured or folk remedies(sawdust, dry leaves, etc.).
• Installation of slab insulation from the inside of the premises. Simply put, fastening polystyrene boards from the side of the premises to the lower plane ceiling.

In both cases, the insulation layer increases along the perimeter, i.e. along the line of joining the ceiling and the adjacent wall. Strengthening is required here due to increased heat loss. A vapor barrier membrane is placed between the wall, ceiling and insulation layer.

Why is not waterproofing used in the formation of a heat-insulating cake over the floor? Yes, because it is necessary to protect it, first of all, from steam penetrating from living quarters, and not from atmospheric water flowing from above.

It is the vapors emitted during breathing by us, our pets and house plants formed during the cooking process, during the reception of hygiene procedures that can harm the thermal insulation system. But on top of the water must protect the roof.

By the way, when laying all types of heaters from the side of a cold attic, they are not covered from above with either steam or waterproofing. Thus, they leave the opportunity for materials to spontaneously dry out when airing the attic space.

In no case should heaters “sweep” and “get wet” under a practically sealed insulating film. Together with moisture, they lose their insulating properties. Wet thermal insulation retains almost nothing, but it can rot, and mold will spread to wooden elements.

Vapor barrier under the insulation, laid from the side of the attic, is arranged in the form of a trough: with the edges of the panel entering the walls. So it will prevent the insulation from getting wet not only from steam moving up from the side of the premises, but also from the side of walls that absorb atmospheric moisture.

Not using a vapor barrier layer is only permissible when extruded polystyrene boards are used as thermal insulation. They have practically no pores capable of absorbing and retaining moisture.

Moreover, this is allowed only above rooms with a stable "dry" operating mode. Above bathrooms, showers, swimming pools, the vapor barrier layer is laid in a pair with extruded polystyrene as usual. There after all there is a possibility of penetration of moisture between joints of plates.

Insulation from the attic

Almost all types of insulating materials are used in the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the cold attic. Bulk options, rigid foam boards, soft wadded mats are in use.

Both industrial products and good old folk materials are used. The main advantages of the former include manufacturability. Their manufacturers have thought through and provided for everything for the prompt implementation of lightweight styling.

Folk remedies are much harder to lay. It is not easy to assemble them in the required volume, and even deliver them to the place of work, which is most often done by hand in buckets. But they are much cheaper better products industries coexist with wood and do not emit toxins that are harmful to us.

The device of thermal insulation from the side of the attic space involves periodic maintenance of the insulation system.

Bulk materials should be periodically loosened so that they dry better, the rest should be inspected and artificially dried, for example, with a hairdryer if necessary.

For inspection and maintenance, along the logs above the thermal insulation, “paths” are constructed from two or three boards. If it is planned to fill the screed over heat-insulating plates and rigid mats, then the trajectory of the proposed path is laid out with a reinforcing mesh.

Use of mineral wool

The mineral wool group includes glass wool, stone (i.e. basalt) wool and slag wool. Glass wool has been used less and less in recent years due to its ability to abundantly "dust" small vitreous particles, which are strictly forbidden to inhale.

Work with glass wool is allowed only in a respirator and glasses. In addition, the smallest glass fibers are harmful to the skin.

Therefore, overalls made of dense fabric with strong elastic bands on the legs and sleeves, and even gloves should be added to personal protective equipment.

Slag wool for insulation of ceilings in low-rise buildings is not used due to toxicity. It remains basalt, it is stone wool made from volcanic rocks. This is because it is not harmful to use and easy to install.

The technology of thermal insulation with basalt wool is determined by the type of floor:

• On reinforced concrete floors. First, the base is repaired and leveled, then the vapor barrier is laid with the edges entering the walls. After that, the mats are rolled out and laid in 2 layers so that the butt seams of the lower tier overlap with the middle of the upper mat, i.e. scatter.
• On wooden floors. Mats are placed in the space between the lags. Previously, a vapor barrier material is placed in each “cell” formed by the lags with a stop on the logs and around the perimeter on the walls.

Cotton wool is cut before laying. Cut it so that the piece is at least 2 cm wider and longer than the actual size of the cell.

Before putting it in place, the piece of cotton is slightly compressed, so that after it it straightens out in the right place and closes the entire space. This prevents the formation of cold bridges.

Thermal insulation with polystyrene boards

Slab heaters are used mainly for reinforced concrete floors. For laying in the space between the lags, it is difficult to choose the size. You have to cut, waste time, and often the material with an illiterate cutting, and in general it is difficult to do everything without gaps, and these are ways for heat loss.

In the arrangement of the insulation complex for reinforced concrete floors, two types are used slab thermal insulation:

• Styrofoam. It's non-extruded polystyrene foam. The material requires a mandatory vapor barrier before laying due to the fact that there are channels in its structure that can absorb water.
• extruded polystyrene. Most often it is Penoplex. Due to its practically waterproof surface, it is not necessary to install a vapor barrier before laying it over living areas, bedrooms, living rooms, children's rooms.

Before installing slab thermal insulation from the side of the cold attic, the bases must be repaired and leveled. The vapor barrier film is laid in the form of a pallet with sides bent on the walls.

Lay the boards freely. They are arranged in two layers with a run-up of seams in the lower and upper tiers. If Penoplex with a mounting chamfer is used, the seams do not need to be sealed, if the foam is used, then the seams and stacks are filled with sealant or mounting foam.

The screed on the slabs is most often performed partially, only at the site of the maintenance paths. It is either poured with a cement-sand mixture with a reinforcing mesh layer not exceeding 4 cm, or constructed from gypsum-fiber sheets.

If they are poured with a solution, then waterproofing is laid over the insulation. Purely so that the concrete milk does not seep into the insulation and does not affect its insulating qualities.

Arrangement with expanded clay gravel

The most famous backfill heat-insulating material is expanded clay. It is used both directly for insulation and for lightening insulating compounds and mixtures. Expanded clay is produced in the form of gravel ranging in size from 4 to 10 mm.

Expanded clay is made from environmentally friendly easily sintered clay. The material is affordable, non-flammable, moisture resistant, lightweight, which greatly facilitates delivery and backfilling. They fall asleep either in the space between the lags, or directly on the reinforced concrete floor.

Before backfilling expanded clay, the base is covered with a vapor barrier film, the edges of which traditionally go onto the walls. These peculiar sides should be 10-15 cm above the level of the gravel layer poured onto the ceiling.

It is not necessary to arrange maintenance paths for expanded clay. You can walk right along the backfill. Periodically, it needs to be agitated with a rake so that all the artificial pebbles of the insulating layer can dry out.

In addition to expanded clay, a wide range of folk filling insulation products are still used, attracting mainly owners of eco-houses as adherents of materials that are safe for themselves and the environment.

Bulk folk materials

Adherents of environmentally friendly construction methods have their own opinion, substantiated by centuries of successful practice, about the options for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

They believe that it is correct and reasonable to insulate both the ceiling under a cold roof and the slopes with natural materials.

In terms of insulating qualities, natural options are certainly inferior to industrial heaters.

But thermal insulation natural origin distinguish:

• Environmental priorities. They do not create the slightest threat to the environment, do not emit or spread harmful chemical components. Natural thermal insulators do not need to be disposed of in a special way, they can simply be burned or placed in a compost heap.
• Practicality. Folk heaters perfectly retained heat even in those days when the dwelling was heated only by a stove. In addition, there was no such powerful heating equipment that the current owners of private houses have.
• Economic benefits. You can prepare natural thermal insulation for a penny or even for free. Replace when lost specifications can be much more often than factory products.
• Symbiosis with natural building materials. Natural heat insulators perfectly coexist with wood, clay, soil backfill. With stable temperature regime they do not deteriorate from contact with the stone.
• Safety for residents. In extremely rare cases, natural materials can cause an allergic reaction, the origin of which has undeniable chemical prerequisites.

Most natural heat insulators, according to the method of laying, belong to backfill varieties. They are freely distributed over the ceiling, periodically stirred to dry and increase thermal insulation properties. For maintenance, paths are arranged from a pair of boards laid on logs.

One of the popular options for natural insulation is ecowool, made from natural cellulose. Its advantages include manufacturability of application, thoroughly thought out by manufacturers, and pre-treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics.

To this day, natural thermal insulation is used:

• Shavings and sawdust. Their abundance remains after the construction of a wooden house, you can replenish stocks at sawmills and woodworking workshops. Fall asleep with a layer of 15 - 30 cm.
• Straw. You can prepare in the nearest farming engaged in the cultivation of cereals. It is laid in a layer of 25 cm.
• Moss. Excellent, practically non-rotting thermal insulation, used both from the inside of the building and from the outside. The qualities laid down by nature allow the use of moss for a dozen or more years. The insulation layer can be relatively small, up to 10 cm.
• Dry leaves, hay. You can stock up on such thermal insulation absolutely free of charge, but you will have to change it almost every year because of the tendency to quickly saturate with moisture. You can use not only foliage, but also needles. It is enough to insulate with a layer of up to 20 cm.
• Seaweed. Not in all regions of our country you can freely get this version of insulation. True, the inhabitants of Primorye have them in abundance and can change every year. The stacking power is up to 20 cm. The distribution of volatile iodine molecules useful for people is a significant plus.

If your area has a pond overgrown with reeds, this plant will also serve. Its stems are tied together with a tourniquet or metal wire. Then the bundles fill the space between the ceiling beams and joists.

The above types of natural thermal insulation have a number of significant drawbacks that are not characteristic of factory products. Therefore, in order to improve consumer qualities, filling natural heaters must be carefully prepared before laying.

The disadvantages that should be minimized before use, quite rightly include:

• Flammability and the ability to perfectly support combustion. Flame retardant treatment ideally combats this disadvantage. Instead, you can use clay or slag, a layer of which covers the top of the insulating backfill.
• Reduction of the heat-insulating thickness. The thermally insulating natural backfill must be stirred frequently to avoid pressing, it must be dried to prevent wetting and the associated reduction in insulating properties.
• incoherence. During the maintenance of the insulation and the device within the attic of the drafts necessary for drying, part of the material can be taken out corny. So, you need to constantly replenish the stock. This disadvantage can be overcome by baling.
• tendency to rot. The ability to quickly and easily absorb moisture can lead to decay, especially if regular maintenance is neglected. As a prophylactic, antiseptics used for wood processing are suitable.
• Attractiveness for rodents. In dry and warm layings of straw, moss, hay, rats and mice live freely, to scare away which you will have to purchase specialized tools in the SES.

There are two more popular types of folk thermal insulation, these are the soil-vegetative layer and crumpled clay. They do not burn and do not attract mice.

They are not afraid of moisture and drafts weathering dry plants. But there is a serious drawback - considerable weight, due to which it is necessary to strengthen the overlap.

Soil - a layer of soil in contact with the day surface, enriched with the waste products of representatives of flora and fauna, is mixed with any of the above folk heat insulators to facilitate it. It is simply scattered over the ceiling, like expanded clay.

Clay is diluted in containers with water to the consistency of sour cream, chopped straw or shavings are added to it and poured onto the floor with a layer of 10–15 cm. After the poured composition has hardened, the cracks are sealed with softened clay.

Ceiling insulation technology

If, for technical reasons, insulation from the side of the cold attic is not possible, then thermal insulation systems are installed from the side of the room, i.e. put on the ceiling. This option is more difficult to implement, but sometimes it is the only possible one.

In the case of thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the ceiling, the following are used:

• Styrofoam. Panels of non-extruded expanded polystyrene are easily glued to a pre-leveled ceiling. Silicone sealant or mounting foam is introduced into the gaps between the elements, the excess of which should be removed immediately.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. Also glue. Most often, Penoplex is used with a mounting edge that eliminates the likelihood of cold bridges. The thickness of the insulation can be accurately calculated according to the climatic data of the area and a material with the appropriate characteristics can be selected.
• Cork. The simplest option is a sheet cork substrate used as a flooring under warm floors. Panels glued to the ceiling are also suitable, but the cost of the insulation system will end up being much more expensive.

Sticking, holding the material to the canopy, of course, is much more difficult and more difficult than falling asleep from above. In addition, these options are not applicable without external finishing. They just need to be decorated.

The ceiling insulation system is masked by installing frame structures: stretch and rack ceilings. For their installation, a fixing profile is installed around the perimeter of the room, located at least 1-2 cm below the glued insulation.

If you plan to install ceiling lights and exhaust ventilation ducts, then the distance between the plane decorative ceiling and the thermal insulation system is further increased. As a result, an unnecessarily low, as if “pressing” ceiling may turn out, which negatively affects the interior picture and the well-being of the owners of the house.

The options actively used in practice also include single- and multi-level drywall constructions. The rigid GVL option is a priority due to the fact that in case of wetting and peeling off the heat-insulating plate, it will freely hold the detached part.

In the field of building an insulation system from the inside of the room, heat-insulating plasters stand apart. Materials for their implementation have been developed relatively recently. The pioneers in their application were progressive industries: the military space complex, civil aircraft industry.

The composition of the heat-insulating plaster material applied to the ceiling contains the smallest ceramic balls, inside which air is contained. It is he who is the most active insulator.

A valuable advantage of heat-insulating plasters is the ability to apply the thinnest layer of 1 mm, the effectiveness of which will be equal to the efficiency of a foam board 5 cm thick. The downside is the considerable cost and complexity of application, which requires special equipment.

Video #1 Correction of errors in the ceiling thermal insulation device made by the former owner of the house:

Demonstration of the attic floor insulation process mineral wool:

The use of ecowool in the thermal insulation of the ceiling:

Properly executed thermal insulation of the ceiling will ensure ideal heat preservation, while creating conditions for the unhindered removal of household fumes and condensate outside the roof structure.

However, not only technologically accurately performed work is important, but also the correct selection of the insulation scheme and the material for its execution. We hope that our article will provide you with effective assistance in this matter.

Although a wooden house is warm in itself, the upper building envelope in it is a weak link, except that the attic is heated, but this is extremely rare. Therefore, it is important to carry out the insulation of the ceiling in a private house in a timely manner, which will help reduce heat costs and save on heating the home.

There are several options for thermal insulation of the ceiling. To decide on optimal insulation and the way it is laid, it is necessary to evaluate the pros and cons of each method, do you agree? We propose to deal with this issue in order.

In the article, we examined in detail the technologies for carrying out thermal insulation work using different types heaters, outlined the characteristics and operational features of materials. In addition, they told me when it is better to use external and when internal insulation of the ceiling, and gave advice on choosing a heat-insulating layer.

According to the place where the insulation is laid, all existing thermal insulation technologies are divided into two categories: internal and external.

There are pros and cons to each of them. The first method is more economical, but you will have to sacrifice the useful volume of rooms. And in the case of external insulation, they usually reinforce the floor, and then arrange flooring attic.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling, both in a wooden and in any other house, will not only retain heat, but also enhance sound insulation. Therefore, the sound of raindrops and the howling of the wind will not annoy the residents of the house. It will not allow insulation and the penetration of heated air inside when it is hot outside

Insulation from the outside is the risk of damage from any mechanical influences, so additional protection is needed. In this case, one cannot do without vapor and waterproofing, which will also entail an increase in the cost of the insulation layer.

The best materials for outdoor insulation

The industry produces a wide range of heaters. Each of them has its own properties, positive and not quite qualities. First of all, environmental friendliness is important - they should not harm health.

In addition to using traditional insulation technology, you can use more progressive and practical solution– . Such a system can completely replace standard heating or become its effective addition.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Interesting ideas for ceiling insulation:

Nuances of ceiling insulation from timber:

If in wooden house there is no residential or insulated attic, you can’t do without ceiling insulation. The ideal case is the insulation of the ceiling while still in the process of construction.

Installation of an insulating layer in an already built house is somewhat more difficult, but still possible. It is important to follow the technology and take into account the features of the selected heat insulator.

Uncomfortable temperature in the rooms, with "astronomical" figures in gas receipts, is a sure sign of poor thermal insulation of a private house, in particular, the ceiling. For the most part, through it, obeying all the laws of physics, heated air seeps into the atmosphere. Modern ones make it easy to prevent this, but due to various circumstances, it is not always possible to work from the side of the attic. and strike a balance of efficiency, cost and environmental friendliness, read below.

Materials for interior work: what is better to use

Most often, ceiling insulation from the attic is impossible due to the low roof slope or too thin beams. Often the reason is the elementary lack of access. In this case, you need to mount a heater inside the room. This complicates the work, increases their cost. You have to think about the availability, make a new "finishing" ceiling. The impossibility of using the most common, cheap, easy-to-use heat-insulating materials, such as expanded clay and sawdust.

For internal works not every material is suitable. The main condition is compliance with the following requirements:

• high fire resistance;
• environmental friendliness, at room temperature the material should not emit substances harmful to humans;
• durability, resistance to fungus;
• adequate price;
• sufficient efficiency with a minimum thickness, which is especially critical for low ceilings;
• low specific gravity, so as not to load the structures of wooden floors.

Of course, there is no insulation that would fit the listed conditions without restrictions, however, there are materials that have a good average balance of parameters, which allows them to be used to insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof.

First of all, it is:

• Styrofoam;
• polyethylene foam;
• mineral wool.

The quality of the materials used directly determines how efficient and durable it will be. Accordingly, this issue requires detailed consideration.

Properties, advantages and disadvantages of materials

The suitability of the insulation is determined for each case individually and depends on the material from which the ceiling is made, its height, and the financial situation of the owner. In "severe" cases, one has to reckon with the interior of the house and even with the presence of rodents. To speed up the choice, to make it right will help to study the features of each of the heaters, their positive and negative sides.

Mineral wool

The most popular and widespread material. It was used even under the Soviet Union, however, it was known as "glass wool". The current name accurately determines the composition of the insulation. Fibers are now made not only from glass, but also from slag and some rocks, such as basalt, that is, only non-combustible substances are used.

Millions of mineral fibers stick together and form insulation, which, depending on the purpose, is produced in rolls, plates and cylinders, which allows you to economically work with surfaces of various configurations. Due to the low specific gravity (from 20 kg / m3), the ceiling is insulated with mineral wool, without the risk of overloading the wooden floors. Therefore, if necessary, it is used even in dilapidated buildings.

These are not all the advantages, mineral wool has a number of other advantages:

1. Low thermal conductivity.
2. Resistance to chemical compounds.
3. Due to the porous structure, it provides air movement, which prevents the formation of condensate.
4. The steam does not settle on the cotton, which means it does not get wet.
5. The insulation does not burn, does not form smoke when heated, does not emit harmful substances.
6. Excellent soundproofing, which is important if there are neighbors from above.
7. Long service life.

True, the advantages of the material do not seem significant against the background of the following shortcomings.

1. Mineral wool is afraid of moisture, due to the ingress of large masses of water on it, thermal insulation properties are lost. Therefore, additional ones are needed.
2. Dusty. Fine fibers can constantly enter the room through the smallest cracks and holes.
3. It is unsubstantiated that the resin used to glue the fibers emits harmful compounds.

Nevertheless, mineral wool remains the most popular heat insulator, so ceiling insulation will be considered using its example.

Lightweight, efficient, easy-to-install material - Alternative option when it is not possible to use mineral wool. Insulation is produced in sheets 1 × 1 m in size, 20-100 mm thick. This is practical, since it is possible to insulate the ceiling in the house at the lowest cost.

Styrofoam is often used indoors, despite a number of disadvantages:

1. Efficiency in work is possible only if there is no gap between the ceiling and the insulation, which excludes air circulation, which means it leads to condensation.
2. Styrofoam is destroyed by rodents and microorganisms.
3. Flammable, emits acrid smoke.
4. Evaporates formaldehyde at room temperature.

Therefore, it is better to mount the foam from the side of the attic space.

Foamed polyethylene

Insulation is made by introducing into liquid material gas hydrocarbon mixture, followed by cooling. As a result, a mass of closed, air-filled bubbles is formed, which serve as a heat-insulating base.

Polyethylene foam has a number of undoubted advantages:

• efficiency;
• environmental friendliness;
• long service life without loss of quality;
• resistant to fungus and rodents;
• hygroscopic;
• not complicated installation.

The main disadvantage is the flammability of polyethylene foam, and it ignites at a relatively low temperature - 100 C. Combustion is accompanied by the release of acrid smoke. In addition, polyethylene foam is not used in all rooms, since it is possible to insulate the ceiling from the inside only if it is quite high. The reason is that for the effective operation of the insulation, it is necessary to provide, on both sides of it, an air gap of 2–3 cm. This, given the thickness of the insulation and the crate, will significantly “lower” the room. However, in the case when it is assumed, insulation with polyethylene foam is quite possible. A bonus to this will be excellent sound insulation, especially if the floors are made of concrete.

The material with properties and structure resembles foam plastic, only with a denser structure, since the manufacturing technology is associated with high pressure. Thanks to this, the insulation turned out to be so durable that it is usually used as the basis for a warm floor. But, sometimes it is also used as a ceiling insulation for a private house. After installation, the plaster is applied directly to the expanded polystyrene, which is one of the main advantages.

True, the latter is true only for the insulation of unheated premises. The fact is that polystyrene foam should not be in direct contact with warm air, otherwise, on its cold side, condensation will inevitably form. This option is unacceptable, since the insulation is afraid of dampness and collapses from it. Therefore, it is necessary to close it with a vapor barrier, and from above - with a decorative ceiling. Thus, the main advantage of expanded polystyrene is nullified.

There is another plus that can be decisive when choosing a material for internal insulation private house - environmental friendliness. It is believed that extruded polystyrene foam, at room temperature, is absolutely safe, unlike polystyrene.

Not without drawbacks:

• combustibility;
• afraid of direct sunlight;
• is destroyed by rodents and insects, despite the fact that manufacturers claim the opposite;
• at temperatures above 75 degrees, it emits substances harmful to humans, therefore it is not used for warming baths.

That's all about the qualities of materials, now about how to insulate the ceiling yourself.

Sequence of work

As already noted, the installation technology will be considered using mineral wool as an example. However, the process, with minor adjustments, is suitable for other thermal insulation materials. The difference is only in some details, the main stages of work remain unchanged.

Frame installation

This is the main element of the whole structure, which determines its durability and aesthetics. You can create a crate from wooden bars or metal profile. In this case, it all depends on the decorative ceiling. Actually, it is for him that the crate is made. If it is supposed to install drywall as a “finish ceiling”, then it is definitely necessary to use a profile. The fact is that the tree is strongly deformed when it dries, and there is no such fastener that could resist this. There is a cracking of the seams between the sheets, "slippage" of the caps of the screws through them.

Lining, MDF and OSB, in this regard, are more unpretentious and are attached directly to wooden crate, which is pre-treated with an antiseptic.

In any case, regardless of the material chosen, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The surface of the ceiling is cleaned of crumbling plaster in compliance with safety regulations, chandeliers and lamps are dismantled.
2. At the same distance from each other, equal to the width of the insulation, wooden bars or a profile are attached to the ceiling. Here you need to take into account several nuances. Rails can be attached directly to the ceiling, which greatly facilitates the work. At the same time, their thickness should be the same as that of the insulation layer. To install the profiles, special suspensions are required, which are fixed on the ceiling, and the profile is already screwed to them.
3. Hanging parts will have to be installed often, as drywall sheets have a large mass. If the plane is made of concrete, special dowels must be used. A gap must be left between the profile and the ceiling in order to subsequently slip the insulation there. Otherwise, in this place, "poles of cold" will turn out.

When all profiles are installed, the crate can be considered complete.

Insulation installation

First, the inner layer of vapor barrier is laid. You can fix it on the ceiling with any convenient way, for example, with glue or staples. Insulation is placed between the profiles. If we are talking about mineral wool, then you should take care of eye and respiratory protection. Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top. Now you can move on to finishing.

Ceiling insulation can save up to 10% of heating bills. It is only necessary to choose the right material. The main characteristics of each of them are now known. The better to insulate the ceiling, the owner of the house must decide, based on the analysis and in accordance with his capabilities.

Video

Here's a themed video:

Ceiling insulation must be done in any private houses or apartments located on the upper floors. According to the laws of physics, warm air always rises, and cold air rushes down. If there are cracks in the ceiling, then the warm masses of air will evaporate, the room will always be cold. In order to "not heat the street", it is recommended to approach the issues of ceiling insulation with all seriousness.

Peculiarities

It happens that it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from the outside in an apartment of a multi-storey building. The only option in this case is to installation work indoors. To understand the features of insulation in a private house from the inside, you should first consider the structure of the insulation and the volume necessary work. It is necessary to sequentially combine the following layers:

• external waterproofing;
• crate for fixing insulation;
• thermal insulation;
• finishing of the upper planes.

What to insulate?

In order to insulate a room inside, several types of materials are used. Most often, a special heat-insulating material is used, which is called glassine. It has the following advantages:

• economically beneficial;
• practical;
• resistant to temperature extremes;
• resists moisture well.

And also popular heaters with similar characteristics. Among them are such as:

• nenofol;
• expanded polystyrene;
• isolon;
• penoplex;
• technical wool;
• cork.

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As a waterproofing, PVC film is most often used, which reliably protects against leaks. Its service life is several decades. It is beneficial to use the film, because it is inexpensive.

pvc film should be overlapped, this is done so that condensate does not penetrate the surface of the supporting structures. The inner layer of waterproofing is glued, the seams are sealed with adhesive tape, they must be airtight.

Drywall

Drywall is good because it provides a perfectly flat surface without seams, it can be used to make any kind of ceiling. To work with drywall, two types of crates are used, such as:

• wooden- it is easier to work with such material, it costs less;
• from galvanized profile- is more durable, does not deteriorate under the influence of temperature changes, is not affected by mold or fungus.

Technical wool

Insulation of the ceiling in a private household using technical wool is carried out in the following way:

• with the help of a stapler, a PVC film is mounted to the ceiling, which will reliably protect against moisture on the plates;
• a crate is stuffed from wooden bars in increments of 40–50 cm. The size of the bar should correspond to the thickness of the thermal plates, that is, have 5 cm;
• technical wool slabs are laid, they are fastened with special mounting rails. This design is reliable and simple, not subject to deformation.

Mineral wool has several important characteristics.

• Low thermal conductivity - 0.036 W / (m * K), a layer of no more than 10 cm is sufficient for insulation, which corresponds to the usual thickness of the supporting beams.
• The material has increased vapor permeability, per 50 kg of weight per cubic meter the coefficient is 0.7 mg / (m * h * Pa). This figure is higher than that of wood.
• Slight hygroscopicity, that is, upon contact with a liquid, the material will absorb no more than 2% of moisture from the total volume.
• Mineral wool boards have high fire safety. Such a heater does not ignite, does not contribute to the spread of fire.
• Mineral wool has good soundproofing characteristics, is able to effectively delay sound waves of very different frequencies. It is especially advantageous to use basalt insulation, because it does not deform, has a long service life. One package is enough to process about twenty square meters.
• The material is not susceptible to the harmful effects of fungus or mold, has antiseptic properties.
• The porous material, which has a low specific gravity, cannot be a burden on the supporting structures, which contributes to a long service life.

Condensation has a detrimental effect on technical wool, it inevitably loses its beneficial features. PVC plates are not afraid of moisture, are not affected by erosion or the spread of fungus. The advantages of mineral wool are that it is not afraid of moisture, does not dampen. Mineral wool is cheaper than PVC boards, does not contain toxins, foam plastic boards emit harmful components.

It is worth remembering that when working with mineral wool, it is imperative to use gloves and goggles so that the microparticles do not get into the eyes or on the skin of the hands.

Execution of works

The easiest to install on the inside of the room is basalt insulation. It is dense and easy to process. In order to fix it does not require special equipment or any special mechanisms. Plywood is suitable for hemming floor beams. This material is good for stitching. bearing structures that are attached underneath. They can support insulation boards that are placed between the beams.

Most often, plywood is used with a thickness of 1 cm, so it is the most popular brand of FK. There are cases when plywood of the FSF brand is also used. It is less "phonite" with formaldehydes. In addition to plywood, they also use materials such as gypsum plasterboard, KVL and lining. Plywood is mounted as follows:

• the sheet is cut to the required dimensions;
• a gap of about 2–3 mm is left between the wall and plywood;
• with the help of self-tapping screws, the prepared elements are fixed;
• the distance between the screws is approximately 15–25 cm.

They also use constantly polyurethane glue, sold in large cylinders. This material is good in that, when used correctly, it is not required to use expensive mounting foam. Such material is good for sealing joints in thermal insulation, for example, in the attic. If the room in the attic is residential, then the use of a grooved board will be required. If the room has a technical purpose, then it is more correct to use plywood.

A special primer for wood must be present without fail, because it works out beams, ceilings and crates. A special primer protects wooden structures from the action of microorganisms and harmful insects.

To fix communications on the ceiling, you should use a plastic or wooden box. Such work is easy to do with your own hands. Last years PVC foam cylinders are also increasingly being used. Sometimes the boxes are also lined with mineral wool, which reduces the level of fire hazard, this creates additional sound insulation.

Installation of insulation in the attic occurs in such a way as:

• prepared thermal plates from technical wool are laid on a horizontal surface, which is laid with a waterproofing film;
• in order for the plates to fall into place, they must be prepared in advance;
• the task of fitting thermal plates is important, since the gap between the material must be minimal;
• often the space between the plates is filled with mounting foam, which guarantees the absence of "cold bridges".

The main materials used by homeowners for insulation are the following:

• glass wool;
• basalt slabs;
• stony;
• polypropylene in rolls;
• foam boards;
• polyplex;
• polystyrene;
• expanded clay.

And also the so-called sawdust is often used. These are wood shavings that are mixed with lime, cement mixture or clay. This process is laborious, requiring a fair amount of time. Therefore, it is resorted to only in cases where a large amount of such wood waste is present.

The most popular are PVC plates. They can be successfully applied both inside and outside. Gable roof it is insulated primarily from the inside, and massive load-bearing beams are also processed, in the cold season they can be a significant source of cold.