Hand chain saw with your own hands. Do-it-yourself chain sawmill from an electric saw. Homemade sawmills from electric saws: design options

A circular electric saw is a very useful thing in any household; in terms of necessity, it is perhaps in second place after an electric drill. If you have to use a saw and not very often, nevertheless, with the slightest possibility of manufacturing parts, I recommend getting such a machine. The saw of the proposed design can be equipped not only with a saw blade with a diameter of up to 200 mm, but also with cutting and grinding wheels, a milling cutter and a universal woodworking head.

The main components of the electric saw in the proposed version have undergone significant structural changes associated with strengthening the structure and changing the layout: the unit is frameless (Fig. 1). Unlike the prototype, this design of the saw provides not only sawing wood, but also planing and milling, as well as tool sharpening and metal cutting.

The basis of this design is the electric motor from washing machine, for example, type DAO-A. The advantage of this electric motor is exceptional reliability, and given that it works in an electric saw in more favorable conditions, it makes direct sense to ensure its operation in a more forced mode by replacing the starting relay with a capacitor starting system, which will be discussed below.

The base of the saw is sawn from plywood or board at least 20 mm thick with dimensions of 300 x 500 mm. The electric motor is fixed to the base with Mb screws with a conical head using corners 50 x 50 mm in size and 140 mm long, attached to the electric motor by its own standard coupling bolts so that the horizontal shelves of the corners are directed outward from the engine.

In a similar way, an underframe is attached to the upper part of the electric motor, made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm and having approximately the same dimensions in plan as the base (Fig. 2). The holes in the squares, which serve for their fastening to the engine, in order to ensure the tension of the belt drive, are made of an oblong shape. Instead of the regular nuts of the upper coupling bolts of the engine, a steel bar measuring 120 x 20 x 4 mm with M8 threaded holes into which the bolts are screwed is installed. The underframe and the base in the zone opposite to the engine are connected by spacer posts made of a metal bar with a diameter of 15 mm.

The ball bearings of the shaft, on which the saw blade and the belt drive pulley are mounted, are installed in the bearing assembly housing. With regard to the manufacture of the bearing housing, shaft and parts used to secure saw blade(Fig. 3), it is advisable to entrust their manufacture to a qualified turner, since not only the safety and reliability of the machine in operation, but also the quality of woodworking largely depend on the quality of these parts.

The housing of the bearing assembly is machined from steel 20, it is designed for the installation of type 203 bearings, which can, for example, be taken from the water pump of Moskvich 402-408 cars or purchased at a car shop. It is desirable to make the spindle shaft and the fastening parts of the saw blade from a higher quality steel, for example, from steel 45. The dimensions of the fastening parts of the saw blade make it possible to install disks with an inner hole diameter of both 32 mm and 50 mm.

The housing of the bearing assembly is welded to a steel square measuring 75 x 75 mm with a wall thickness of 5-6 mm, a length of 82 mm, with which the bearing assembly is fixed to the underframe with Mb screws with conical heads. The threaded holes for attaching it to the underframe should be drilled prior to welding using a template with which holes are subsequently drilled into the underframe. Bearing seats are rubbed with chalk before welding to avoid welding splashes of metal. It should be noted that all subsequent holes in the parts to be joined are recommended to be drilled together during the rough pre-assembly process, including cutting a hole in the underframe, which serves to install a cutting tool, the approximate size of which is 200 x 30 mm.

The desktop is made of duralumin 4-5 mm thick or textolite, vinyl plastic or duralumin 8-10 mm thick. For the passage of the saw blade in the table, a slot is made about 10 mm wide. This can be done later, in the process of checking the operation of the machine. A boss is screwed to the end part of the underframe, to which halves of detachable card cards are attached with M5 screws. door hinges 90-100 mm long (right and left), which include reciprocal halves of loops with pins, fastened to the desktop with M5 screws with a conical head. Reciprocal halves to ensure the orientation of countersinks in the hinge plates with fastener heads are interchanged: the right half is joined to the left, and the left to the right counterpart.

In the opposite part of the table there is a support-lifting device that provides smooth adjustment lifting of the edge of the table relative to the underframe and, accordingly, the required amount of exit of the edges of the cutting tool relative to the surface of the table. At the first stage of manufacturing the machine, generally speaking, you can do without a lifting device by fixing the table on the underframe and adjusting the table rise by setting washers.
Before pressing the bearings into the housing, they must be lubricated with LITOL-24 grease. When using bearings with other dimensions, the dimensional chains of the bearing housing must be corrected. It is desirable to use nuts ready-made. The driven pulley can be adapted from an old washing machine or machined from aluminum alloy.

The drive belt must be approximately 600 mm long, otherwise it will not be possible to use a cutting tool with a diameter of 200 mm or more:1 Some washing machines are equipped with such belts. In combination with a cutting tool with a small diameter, of course, shorter belt lengths can also be used.

The regular circuit for switching on the electric motor of the saw is shown in fig. 4. The starting relay type RTK-S is fixed near the motor so that the arrow on its body is oriented vertically upwards - otherwise the relay will not work correctly. Practice shows that it is more expedient to use a capacitor starting system (Fig. 5), since it is noted that in the presence of a working capacitor, the engine torque is noticeably greater.

The capacitor start system does not require the use of a start relay. Automatic shutdown of the starting capacitor is carried out using a modified two key switch. The "Start" key (Fig. 6) is supplied with an elastic element - a piece of foam rubber or sponge rubber measuring 5 x 10 x 20 mm, which ensures the return of the key to its original state. The flag attached to this key provides automatic operation of the second section of the switch S2, which supplies power to the electric motor.

The electric motor is started by pressing the "Start" key for the time during which the electric motor will reach its operating speed. After the pressure is removed, the “Start” key returns to its original state with an elastic element, opening the contacts SI, which turn off the starting capacitors, while the “Stop” key remains on, closing the contacts S2. Stopping the motor is done by pressing the "Stop" button. When using a capacitor start system, it is necessary to install a fuse for a current of about 6A.

To adjust the belt tension, the nuts of the tie rods are released and the underframe is displaced relative to the engine, after which the nuts are tightened again. It should be borne in mind that during intensive use of an electric saw equipped with a capacitor start engine system, the regular transmission belt may turn out to be the weakest link in the machine. In this case, a double belt drive can be used.

When using the standard system for starting the electric motor, it is also advisable to connect the capacitor Cp to the outputs of the starting relay "O" and "P", as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 4, although the starting relay monitors the moment of current increase quite clearly, not allowing the electric motor to develop significantly more power.

The details of the electric motor starting system are mounted on a metal shield bent in place in a z-shaped manner, which serves to protect the electric motor from sawdust. The shield is made of galvanized roofing steel and fastened with M8 nuts to the protruding ends of the lower coupling bolts of the electric motor at a distance of about 35 mm from it and screwed to the base with screws. A key switch is attached to the front surface of the shield, and capacitors are mounted on the back side.

A guide is attached to the table with Mb bolts, made of a duralumin corner measuring 50 x 50 mm and 600 mm long, in which a family of holes with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled, allowing the guide to be fixed to the table parallel to the saw blade at the required distance. It is desirable to install steel threaded bushings in the table.

At the base of the saw, a trapezoidal slot is made with dimensions: At the base of the trapezoid 70 and 30 mm, the height of the trapezoid is 150 mm. The slot is used to dump sawdust from under the disk into a storage plastic bag, which is put on the neck made under the slot, and fixed on it with twine or elastic. Sawdust is useful as mulch in gardening, as well as bedding for cages of small animals, such as hamsters. Of course, for keeping animals, sawdust from chipboard, etc. use is not allowed.

During operation, the electric saw is installed on a massive stand made of hardwood boards, such as birch, with a thickness of at least 25 mm. Inside the stand, near the corners of the box, bosses measuring 40 x 40 x 40 mm are placed, on which the base of the machine rests. The stand serves as a case for storing the saw, for which the saw is turned upside down and placed on the same bosses, but it can also be used as a bin for collecting sawdust, as it is equipped with a bottom.

The design of the spindle assembly allows the installation of a wide range of various cutting and grinding tools. Speaking about the selection of saw blades, we can recommend that you first purchase a rip saw blade with a thickness of 1.6 mm, a diameter of 200 mm and 48 teeth. Generally speaking, the power of the saw motor is not very significant, so do not try to fit saw blades of large diameter and thickness; do not purchase discs designed for cross cutting: if a rip saw cuts quite satisfactorily across the fibers, then when you try to cut longitudinally with a cross saw, you will suffer pretty much.

It should be borne in mind that when sawing significant volumes of chipboard, a conventional steel saw blade "sits down" very quickly due to the presence of various hard inclusions in the material. Therefore, if you need to cut significant amounts of chipboard, I advise you to get a saw blade with cutting edges equipped with carbide inserts.

Quarters are most productive to choose a cutter with an outer diameter of 125 mm, with a bore of 32 mm. It is extremely useful to get a cutting disc for metal with a thickness of 3 mm, with a bore diameter of 32 mm, and an outer diameter of up to 200 mm, although using centering washers it is also possible to install discs with a bore diameter of 22 mm. In this case, cutting metal and profiles will not be any problem for you. When using a cutter or cutting disc the hole in the desktop may need to be enlarged a bit.

Drawings of the parts that secure the universal woodworking head (UDG) on the spindle are shown in fig. 7. By the way, I was forced to pay for the costs associated with the purchase of UDG and the manufacture of installation parts due to the fact that the electric planer "Rebir" type I-5709 made in Latvia broke down literally after 4 hours of relatively unstressed work - the anchor of the electric motor burned out. Judging by the fact that spare anchors instantly disappear from the shelves, I realized that the reliability of this planer is extremely low and a more reliable tool should be acquired. I note that in the case of using UDG, it will be necessary to make a special desktop, since the passage of cutters fixed in the head requires a hole width of 55 mm. Cutters for UDG can be made from commercially available planer knives by processing them on a cut-off and emery wheel on the same machine.

Before starting sawing, in order to avoid damage to the saw teeth, it is necessary to carefully inspect the workpiece for the absence of nails and other inclusions. This rule should be especially strictly observed when processing wood that has been in use. If metal inclusions are found, they should be removed. If the engine stops due to overload during sawing, the saw must be switched off immediately, the cause of the overload removed and switched on again. The reason for the frequent repetition of such situations may be the blunting of the cutting edges of the saw blade. In this case, you should use a personal or “velvet” file of a semicircular or diamond-shaped section and sharpen the cutting edges, which can be done without removing the disk from the machine. After this procedure, the saw will work again, like a "beast". Along the way, I note the need to control the divorce of the cutting edges of the saw teeth, which should be approximately 0.6-0.8 mm. Without a divorce, the saw does not like to cut! Keyboard contacts should also be cleaned periodically.

When cutting the edges of unedged boards, in order to obtain even edges on the board, it is first necessary to “beat off” the line with a hemp or cotton cord rubbed with charcoal or chalk. It would be nice to get an auxiliary support roller, which can be taken from the squeezing device of the washing machine, fixing it on a stand of the appropriate height.

By raising the working table, you can install an abrasive stone and use the machine to sharpen the tool. A plywood disc with a diameter of up to 250 mm with a glued skin (“button accordion”) will allow you to grind parts. A polished wheel, which is a package of round fabric blanks sandwiched between two discs, will facilitate the process of polishing metal and plastic parts with polishing paste.

Cutting and fastening tools are very convenient to store in metal can with a diameter of 300 mm from under the film. A piece of cloth soaked in oil is placed at the bottom of the jar, the saws are stacked (it is advisable to separate them with cardboard spacers), wrapped with the ends of the cloth and the jar is closed with a lid. Now the instrument is not afraid of corrosion. An eyelet can be attached to the box, allowing you to hang the box on the wall.

When working on the machine, follow the safety rules: be sure to use safety glasses, work in gloves or mittens. Remember that new fingers never grow back to replace those cut off, and it is still very difficult to engraft the cut off, despite the tremendous advances in medical science.
I wish you success in your work!

Unlike a standard chainsaw, a homemade battery powered saw is noticeably behind in power. However, at the same time, it has other obvious advantages: compact size and mobility - the electric saw can be easily disassembled and put in a backpack. In general, despite the low power, it will still be useful.

To make a homemade electric saw, you will need a piece of sheet metal 3 mm thick, from which you will need to cut the base for the body. You will also need a short bar, fasteners and a piece of saw chain.

Main stages of work

First of all, we cut out the case to which the electric motor will be attached. Then on lathe we grind a steel pulley on the drive shaft of the engine. To make a homemade cordless electric saw, you need a tire small size and a piece of chain of suitable length.

Then you need to make a wooden handle, in which you will need to drill a hole and install the power on / off button.

At the next stage, we make a whole 24V battery pack from 18650 batteries. The contact plates are welded with contact welding. A full charge of the battery will last for one hour of continuous operation of the saw.

From a piece of steel round pipe it is necessary to make a persistent handle to make it more convenient to saw. Then we proceed to the assembly of the entire structure. The result is a compact electric saw that runs on a rechargeable battery.

Having your own sawmill is a profitable business, as wood is one of the most sought after building materials. You can acquire such equipment by buying it ready-made or by building it yourself. The choice of option depends entirely on how many cubic meters wood will be processed regularly. Experts recommend that you first familiarize yourself with the types of saws. The purchase of a finished product will help save time, and the manufactured one will fully meet the requirements of the owner.

Types of frame units

It is recommended to pay attention to the sawmill from the electric saw, in which the frame is the base. Typical factory-made products are expensive and are considered professional equipment with rich features and a high level of performance. The finished tool can pay off after a few months. It is necessary in the presence of a large amount of forest. In other cases, it is advisable to purchase or independently manufacture a sawmill from a small electric saw.

The equipment intended for sawing up of wood is presented in wide assortment. Most of them are too expensive for a typical suburban economy, and the processing volumes are focused on the scale of industrial enterprises and reach several thousand cubic meters per day. Experts distinguish 3 types of such devices:

• disk;
• tape;
• tire.

Circular saws are the most common in the household. Among their disadvantages are the increased volume of waste in comparison with tape counterparts and the high cost of high-quality discs. Band saws are recognized as one of the most profitable options. They are unpretentious to weather conditions and produce a small amount of waste. It is recommended to use them with a tree whose diameter does not exceed 70 mm. The design of the device complicates the process of reproducing it with your own hands.

Tire sawmills are in great demand among amateurs. They are capable of processing large volumes of wood. A do-it-yourself tire sawmill can be made more easily and quickly compared to analogues.

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Specifications

Factory-made devices have their own characteristics that affect the price. The electric saw ПЦМ-1Э (380 V) has small dimensions, copes well with the processing of wood with a diameter of no more than 60 cm and a length of no more than 9.5 m. It is equipped with a three-phase electric motor, the power of which reaches 5.5-7.5 kW.

Equipment PTSM-3B (Stihl MS 660) of small size is capable of processing logs with a diameter of up to 60 cm and a length of up to 9 m. In a professional model, the engine power reaches 5.2 kW. The unit copes with the processing of 6 cubic meters of wood during an 8-hour shift.

The sawmill disk "Taiga DP-1" easily processes wood with a diameter of no more than 90 cm and a length of up to 7 m. It is capable of producing several types of wood products, equipped with an electric motor with a power of 11 kW. It produces up to 10 cubic meters of wood in an 8-hour shift. Band sawmill "Wood-Mizer LT-15" processes a tree with a diameter of up to 70 cm, the length of logs is not limited, and the weight can reach 2 tons. It is presented in two trim levels - with an electric motor with a power of 11 kW and a gasoline engine with a power of 18 hp.

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Self-manufacturing

To make a sawmill with your own hands, you will need to create a plan. Manufacturing process carried out independently if the sawmill will be used irregularly and there are certain materials (metal profiles, engine).

A sawmill made from an electric saw of its own production has more modest performance than its factory counterpart. homemade device used for the production of beams and boards. You must first determine:

• the length and diameter of the logs to be processed;
• unit performance;
• motor - gasoline or electric;
• installation location.

As an engine, you can adapt the carriage for a semi-professional chainsaw. Experts say that household chainsaws and electric chain saws will not work, since their motors are not designed to perform such actions (lack of the necessary power).

The bed, base or frame must be sufficiently stable and reliable, since the safety of the master and the quality of the equipment work depend on this. The length of the frame is determined by the length of the wood to be processed. Guides can be made from pipes, angles, U-shaped profiles. The thickness of the metal is selected taking into account the weight of the processed wood. For a carriage with a saw, metal of 3-4 mm is required. It will be able to support the weight of the armature and the engine.

The choice of disc or tire depends on the type of device being manufactured. Their length reaches 40-50 cm. You can reduce the amount of waste if you use chains with a small cut thickness and a special type of tire. The sharpening angle of the chain should be 10°. Experts recommend making a device for attaching round timber in the form of a low stationary unit.

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Step-by-step instruction

To make a sawmill for cutting with a disk, you will need to place the carriage at the top of the structure. Guides made from a 50 mm corner should be 5 m long. If the equipment is stationary, then holes will need to be drilled in concrete and in the corner in 15 cm increments. The structure is attached to the floor with dowels.

A device for fixing a log can be made from a channel or a U-shaped profile. The edges must be welded to the corner. Additionally, it is required to make holes for the bolts so that the log is fixed in the profile. The thickness of the processed logs will not exceed 40 cm, therefore 10, 15 and 20 cm are measured from the center of the profile. Holes for the stops will be located at these points. A more secure fixation can be achieved by installing a movable latch with teeth on the first and last profiles. The latch is made of a metal sheet 4 mm thick. The teeth are sawn with a grinder. It is required to make additional holes in the profile and latch so that the last unit can be easily dismantled and installed back.

The next step involves the manufacture of the carriage. The design must be reliable, considering a three-phase motor with a power of 3 kW. The height of the product should be 1-1.2 m. It is necessary to mark a corner 4 mm thick and 40 mm long. Then you need to cut the elements. The design of the carriage is welded and requires the connection of parts. At the ends of its corners, holes are made for the wheels.

Next is the installation of the engine with the disk. It is desirable that its height can be adjusted, and the device can work in two positions - vertical and horizontal. You can adjust the unit in height using two pipes, which are recommended to be welded to the carriage frame.

At the next stage, you will need 2 channels welded to each other and a sheet of metal 6 mm thick. The channel is attached to the pipes using U-shaped clamps with a diameter of 10 mm. At its ends, you will need to weld pieces of metal with holes for clamps, which must simultaneously sit tightly on the pipe and, if necessary, slide along it. It is desirable to adjust the height using 2 threaded rods. From above, in the profile of the carriage, it is necessary to make holes for the bars.

A nut is welded to the ends of the profile on which the motor is located, into which it is necessary to screw the rod and weld the sprocket from the bicycle. On both sides, 2 threaded rods and asterisks are formed. Between them, 2 large sprockets from the bicycle are installed, which will have to be tightly connected. As they rotate, the motor will rise or fall.

By creating conditions for turning the motor both horizontally and vertically, it is possible to achieve rotation of the disk in 2 positions. The frame is assembled based on the dimensions of the disk and the engine and is welded to the movable profile. It is necessary to attach 2 bearings, make 4 holes in the steel sheet. They are necessary for mounting the electric motor, to which 2 metal rods will need to be welded, focusing on the diameter of the bearings. Then the structure is firmly attached to the frame. On the back side there will be a handle with stops. The protective casing is made of stainless steel and fastened with self-tapping screws to the frame with the motor. A control panel with "Start" and "Stop" buttons is connected to a fixed engine with a disk.

When working at home, you should always be able to make a tool with my own hands. A home-made circular will perform its duties no worse than its factory counterpart, and its maintenance and dismantling will be much easier. IN special occasions circular saw can be converted into a radial or grinder, which has its very pleasant moments.

You can make a circular saw yourself, for this you need to have good drawings and tools.

Working with a saw and a grinder

Tools and materials:

• grinder 150-180 mm;
• drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• steel clamps;
• sheet steel;
• pliers.

Before you make a circular yourself, you need to try to make it from other tools. Most often, the process is organized with the help of a grinder, because. it can be redone much faster and easier than any other analogues.

The simplest option spoils the tool best. For it, it will be necessary to fasten the tool to the base using self-tapping screws for metal. If desired, you can make through holes with a drill and tighten them with bolts and nuts, which will be much more reliable in operation, because. the tool will no longer strip the thread in case of strong tension. The only nuance that should be taken into account is the factory imbalance of the tool, due to which it will be necessary to fix it in the most careful way, so that there is not even a small chance of movement.

If desired, you can complicate this design, moreover, this will save the tool from unnecessary interventions inside. For fastening, steel clamps are required, which wrap around the tool at 3-4 points, and then fix it on bolts from 2 sides. This design is very reliable, but special attention should be paid to the quality of fixation in order to avoid even small misunderstandings.

For those cases when the tool is made stationary, you can use more powerful options for angle grinders. The angle grinder itself is attached to the reduction gear with bolts or self-tapping screws (depending on the ability to make a joint without damaging the tool, because sometimes the attachment points do not match), after which they are installed together on the countertop and screwed in the highest quality way.

The most reliable method will be at the same time the most difficult, because the support of a milling turner will be required. His task is only to carve a special part that would be suitable in its parameters for hitching an angle grinder and a countertop. This hitch method is the most reliable, besides, even microscopic movements are excluded, which is far from being achieved in every factory tool.

It should be taken into account the fact that in any case the protective cover is removed, and instead a homemade one is made from sheet steel. It will no longer be possible to use the casing mount due to the fact that it is used for coupling, and the homemade product should be mounted directly to the countertop. For its manufacture, it is necessary to cut a semicircle from sheet steel, at which the tip is bent and clamped with pliers. This design will withstand any surprises after it can be screwed.

When choosing an angle grinder, you need to be extremely careful so that the number of revolutions is small and the power is high. If the speed exceeds 4500 rpm, you will have to use reduction gears, because. otherwise, the cutters will grind very quickly.

It is very important to remember that in no case should a circular made from a grinder be remade back, because. for this reason, every day in all parts of the world, people end up in hospitals with injuries of varying severity. Even if the grinder is urgently needed, and there is no other option, then it is better to be patient, because with a high probability even factory protection will not save.

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Saw rework

Tools and materials:

Scheme of a carriage for a circular saw.

• chain Saw;
• steel flat roller;
• nozzle for cutters;
• reduction gear;
• welding machine.

Electric saws and chainsaws are a gift from the 20th century, which fits into life very harmoniously, but there are situations when it is desirable to remake them, which is not easy enough. It should be noted in advance that this alteration is of a momentary nature, but if desired, you can repeat it over and over again without any damage (replacement will take some time).

In order to get a circular, you only need to weld a movable wheel at the very end of the boom, and cut off the end itself. The wheel should ideally follow the contour of the cut off element so that the chain does not stretch or fall off when moving.

An adapter for cutters is attached to the side of the wheel. This adapter is removable so that there are no difficulties when sawing with a chain.

With high-quality refinement, the wheel will not harm the working qualities of the chainsaw in the absence of milling cutters at that moment. In addition, the basic operating speed completely allows you to do without serious third-party modifications.

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Using an electric motor

Tools and materials:

• asynchronous motor;
• sheet steel;
• wires;
• reduction gear;
• bolts with nuts;
• adapter for cutters;
• pliers.

There are many electric motors, with commutator, synchronous and asynchronous motors being the most popular. For this activity, the asynchronous option is suitable, because. it has the highest power ratings, low revs and a huge margin of endurance.

It will be very simple to make a circular out of it, so everything can be done in stages:

1. An engine of 4000-4500 rpm is selected, with a power of 2-3 kW and powered by a 220 V socket. If an engine with such parameters was not found, then you will have to use a gearbox that will bring the number of revolutions to the required one. The connection is made using bolts with nuts, but it is advisable not to resort to self-tapping screws, because they can cause significant harm.
2. Now you should choose which nozzle will be: chains or cutters. The cutters grind quickly, but give a thinner cut, which results in greater accuracy. Chains grind much more slowly, but when working they have several times more sawdust. Most often, milling cutters are preferred, because the base price of wood with them comes out a little cheaper, and the quality of the cut is higher.
3. An adapter for cutters is attached to the motor shaft. If a gearbox was used, then you need to mount it on the gearbox. In this case, the joint is made without welding, so that, if necessary, it is possible to replace the nozzle with any digestible one.

At the very end, a protective casing is made of sheet steel according to the method described above. The casing is attached to the gearbox or motor so that there are no complications.