Whitefly - pest garden plants, can affect both adult specimens and young seedlings. This harmful little butterfly feeds on their juice. Outwardly, the insect is similar to but much smaller. An adult is only 2 mm in length, it loves to settle in greenhouses (it is not without reason that it is called the greenhouse whitefly), but it can also live on houseplants. This tiny butterfly is outwardly difficult to notice, it lives on the underside of the leaf. But it is worth touching the plant, as the insects immediately scatter,

it looks like a dusty cloud.

Signs of plant damage

Let's figure it out in order how to deal with whiteflies. To understand this, you need to know what the affected plant looks like. As mentioned above, if you slightly touch the leaf, a cloud of a large number of very small butterflies appears around it. On the damaged leaves, a sticky substance forms on the underside, in the environment of which fungal diseases. The surface of the leaves first turns white, and then turns black. Thus, the whitefly causes double harm - it sucks the juices from the plant and contributes to its defeat by fungal diseases. The plant is doomed to death if urgent measures are not taken.

Control measures

How to deal with a whitefly butterfly if it has already started on an adult plant? The most reliable method of dealing with it is insecticide treatment. There are many drugs sold in stores, you can choose any of them.

them: "Phosbecid", "Fufafon", "Mospilan", "Pegasus", "Aktellik", "Verticillin-J" or any other. About how to deal with whiteflies, the instructions for these drugs are written in detail. The indicated doses for treatment should be strictly adhered to and not exceeded. But you can use these chemicals only before the flowering of plants or, in extreme cases, during it. If the fruits have already begun, then it is better not to use chemistry, but to resort to proven "grandmother's" methods. Folk wisdom knows how to deal with whiteflies. Gardeners often use glue traps. You can use ordinary fly ribbons, or you can make them yourself. To do this, take small plywood, paint them in a bright color (this attracts a pest) and smear it with some sticky substance, such as honey or castor oil. Such homemade traps you need to wash and smear again after a few days. How to deal with whiteflies at home, if the pest wound up on flowers, folk wisdom will also tell you. For indoor flowers use more safe means: soapy solution (dilute in water in a ratio of 1:6), yarrow infusion (80 g of herbs per 1 liter of hot boiling water, leave for a day) or garlic infusion (1 tablespoon of peeled and chopped garlic, pour 1 liter of hot boiling water, leave for a day ). These infusions and solutions are wiped or sprayed on the leaves of plants. If a whitefly appeared on seedlings, how to fight? Both insecticides and infusions prepared independently are suitable here.

Where does the pest come from?

Very often, we ourselves bring the whitefly into our house or greenhouse along with the purchased one. In order for this harmful butterfly not to appear in your greenhouse or greenhouse next year, in areas where winters are cold, nothing needs to be done, all the larvae will freeze during the winter. And if the winters are not cold, change the soil regularly and monitor its quality.

White midge attacked seedlings of tomato and pepper

Sometimes you can observe how a white midge similar to living mold attacks the seedlings of tomato and pepper - this is a greenhouse, greenhouse whitefly. This pest is very resistant to spraying with various decoctions, and sometimes chemicals. An adult whitefly has a size of 1-1.5 mm.

Her body is almost completely covered by two pairs of white wings. When these insects tightly stick around the plant, it seems as if the leaves are indeed covered with mold. The bulk of the females of this pest is located on the underside of the leaves.

It is there that females lay 85-130 eggs in 30 days. The greenhouse whitefly often settles on indoor plants, gets from them and onto seedlings of tomato and pepper, which we grow on window sills. The whitefly can get on seedlings from plant residues, from the soil, as well as from the seedlings themselves, if you purchased it in a greenhouse. As a result of its vital activity, the underside of the leaves is covered with white larvae, the leaves become sticky, in some places black spots from sooty mushroom. How to protect seedlings from whiteflies? It is necessary to carry out autumn preventive spraying of plants with special pesticides.

The first spraying is carried out after harvesting, and the second - after the removal of diseased plants. The treatment is carried out with a 0.3% emulsion of karbofos. If you have a well-sealed greenhouse, then instead of re-spraying, you can fumigate with sulfur dioxide at a temperature of +18 - +20 degrees maintained in the greenhouse.

To do this, you need to burn lump sulfur (50g / m3) and keep the greenhouse closed for 1-2 days. It is also worth carrying out a single disinfection of the greenhouse with sulfur dioxide - burn 100 g of sulfur for each cubic meter greenhouses. It is necessary to destroy weeds in the greenhouse and in the adjacent territory, to refuse intermediate crops, to keep the distance between planted vegetables - do not plant vegetables close to the greenhouse (no closer than 2-4 m). Greenhouses with vegetables should be removed from greenhouses with flowers at a distance of at least 10 m. Fitoverm also helps to cope with the whitefly.

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Seedling disease - whitefly

Often seedlings of vegetables and flowers are affected by pests such as whiteflies. These are small-sized insects with a small yellowish body, up to 1 mm long and two pairs of wings, the surface of which is covered with a white bloom.

By appearance the whitefly looks like a moth. When plants are affected by such a pest, on the reverse side of the leaf plate, you can see insect eggs, which are stacked in rings of 10-20 pieces each. The fertility of whitefly females is quite high: from 130 to 280 eggs. The larvae are light yellow in color.

The body is covered with short hairs, the eyes are orange-red. The larvae and adults of the whitefly feed on the juice that they extract from the cuttings, leaves and stems of plants. As a result, the parts affected by the pest dry up and then die off. The sooty fungus that appears on the sweet secretions of the whitefly causes a disruption in the process of photosynthesis and a decrease in the immunity of garden and flower crops.

Signs of defeat. It is not difficult to see whiteflies on plants. Most often, insects settle on the reverse side of the leaves, where they form fairly extensive colonies. Signs such as wilting, drying and curling of the leaves, as well as the formation of yellowish spots on the leaf plates with fuzzy outlines, indicate the defeat of seedlings by the whitefly.

In addition, the pests release a sugary substance, which is also easily seen on damaged plant parts. Prevention measures.

In most cases, the cause of the appearance of the whitefly is the high temperature in the structure of the protected ground and the decrease in the level of air humidity. For the timely detection of the pest, it is necessary to constantly inspect the cultivated crops.

Ways to fight. The easiest way to deal with adult whiteflies is to hang sticky tapes. It is best if such a tape is yellow in color. Larvae and eggs are removed by rinsing the aerial parts of plants with soapy water.

After that, the stems are wrapped in a plastic bag and left for 2-3 days. It is recommended to collect adult insects in the early morning hours, when the insects are inactive. Some gardeners collect insects with a vacuum cleaner. The most effective means of controlling insect pests (including whiteflies) are insecticidal preparations.

In particular, Fufanon, Decis, Intavir or Actellik can be used. It is also advisable to use microbiological preparations, among which Verticillin is distinguished. For the destruction of whiteflies, pyrethroid preparations are often chosen: Arrivo, Cyper-methrin, Talstar, Fury and others. Folk remedies for pest control.

You can fight with the whitefly that settled on seedlings not only by chemical means, but also folk remedies. It is best to use an infusion made from garlic. To do this, the cloves (2/3 cup) must be cleaned, crushed and poured warm water(1l). Pour the mixture into a glass dish, cork and then keep for 5 days.

The prepared infusion is diluted with clean water at the rate of 1 teaspoon of the concentrate per 1 liter of liquid and the plant affected by the insect is sprayed. Homemade traps are often used to collect adult whiteflies. For their manufacture, it is required to take a sheet of hardboard or plywood painted yellow and apply a layer of petroleum jelly, castor oil or a mixture of rosin and honey to the surface.

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Whitefly Diet

The whitefly's favorite diet primarily includes: fuchsia, begonia, balsam, passionflower, pelargonium, lantana. For lack of a favorite, the whitefly is able to attack most indoor plants. In greenhouse-greenhouse conditions, it prefers tomatoes and cucumbers, but does not disdain other plants.

Prevention

The whitefly appears where high temperature is combined with high humidity (greenhouses, greenhouses - first of all), there is not enough ventilation, the plants are placed too closely. For this reason, first of all, it is necessary to provide the plant with an optimal moisture-temperature regime and ventilation. Also, all preparations that strengthen the plant have a preventive effect - a healthy strong plant will endure the invasion of the whitefly with less losses, provided that you still defeat it!

External signs of damage

Whiteflies usually hide on the underside of leaves. On the upper side of the lower leaves, a shiny coating (honeydew, or pad) appears - insect feces, on which sooty fungi (“black”) subsequently develop, due to which the leaf surface becomes first white and then black. It is sooty fungi that can strongly harm the plant, not directly the whitefly. Sometimes, because of them, the growth of shoots stops.

Control measures

Chemicals:

  • Actellik. Dilute the ampoule in 1 liter of water and process during the appearance of the pest. Solution consumption up to 2 liters per 10 sq.m. No more than 4 treatments. Waiting period 3 days. Verticillin G- 25 ml per 1 liter of water. Double spraying with an interval of 7-10 days. Confidor(20% WRA) 0.1 ml per 1 liter of water. Single spray. Mospilan(20% RP) - 0.05-0.06 g. Single spraying Pegasus(25% EC) - 2 ml per 1 liter of water. Double spraying with an interval of 7 days. Fufanon(57% EC) - 1.2-1.5 ml. Single spray. Phosbecid Dilute 5 ml per 5 liters of water, consumption - 100 square meters. m.

Glue traps can be used to capture adults. To do this, take pieces of plywood or hardboard, paint it yellow or White color and lubricate them with petroleum jelly, rosin with honey or castor oil.

Insects attracted by bright yellow or white (yellow is better) sit on these baits and stick. When there are a lot of them on a piece of plywood, they wipe it and smear it again with the same solution. You can also use sticky fly traps.

Folk remedies

Whiteflies do not like low temperatures, so you can move the plant to a cooler room. Since whiteflies fly, they can be caught on sticky tapes(sold in shops for catching flies). You can use folk remedies, for example, herbal infusions against insects - they are sprayed with plants.

Relatively effective infusion of garlic. Chopped garlic cloves (150-170 g) pour 1 liter of water and insist in a tightly sealed container for five days. For spraying, 6 g of concentrate diluted in 1 liter of water is enough.

Keep in mind that folk remedies can help if there are not too many pests. Try washing the plant with clean water - whiteflies are well washed off with its water, after this procedure it is necessary to loosen the top layer of soil in the pot.

Pests on seedlings - how to recognize and fight

If measures are not taken in time, aphids, whiteflies, thrips and spider mites can destroy young seedlings. How to recognize pests and what to do if they attacked plants? You can determine who exactly harms your seedlings by the characteristic features that distinguish this or that pest.

Aphid

Insects are very voracious and multiply quickly. You can understand that aphids have settled on plants by shape change and leaf colors: they curl up And discolored. Also appears on the leaves of seedlings "honeydew"- sweet sticky secretions of aphids, which are a favorable environment for the reproduction of pathogenic fungi. Regular inspection of seedlings will help prevent the appearance of aphids, as well as the creation of optimal growing conditions:

  • maintaining daytime temperatures at 20-25°C, and night temperatures at 16-20°C; regular watering with settled water at room temperature; arranging plants in such a way that their leaves do not touch each other.

If aphids nevertheless appeared on the seedlings, but there are not many of them, insects can be collected by hand, and the plants themselves can be sprayed with a solution of laundry soap (25-30 g per 1 liter of water). If there are a lot of aphids, the plants should be treated with insecticides - Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmiks, Fitoverm, etc. (according to instructions).

thrips

Outwardly, these insects resemble miniature (about 1 mm) butterflies. They suck the juice from plants, leaving a "bite" in place. small silver spots.

Over time, these spots grow, merge and cover the entire leaf. You can cope with thrips with the help of chemical insecticides - Fitoverma, Vermitek, Akarina, etc. Moreover, you will need to carry out at least 3 sprays with an interval of 7-10 days. Tomato leaves damaged by thrips To in the future, to prevent the appearance of a pest, thoroughly disinfect containers and substrate before sowing seeds for seedlings. Also strictly observe the requirements of plants for growing conditions.

whitefly

This voracious pest feeds on the juice of seedlings, not disdaining either leaves, or stems, or cuttings of plants. By sucking the juice from the leaves, the larvae and adults of the whitefly secrete sticky enzymes, which are a favorable environment for the development of pathogenic fungi.

Damaged "seedling moth" (as the whitefly is also called) parts of plants dry up And die off.As a rule, the whitefly appears in rooms with high temperatures and low humidity. If this is not allowed - regularly ventilate the room, place wide containers of water near the plants to increase air humidity - the appearance of whiteflies can be avoided. Also, do not forget to periodically inspect the seedlings.

When a pest appears, it can be sprayed with an infusion of garlic or sticky yellow ribbons can be hung throughout the room. To prepare the infusion, pass 2 tbsp through a meat grinder. peeled garlic cloves, transfer the resulting mass to glass jar, pour 1 liter of water and cover with a lid. After 5 days, the infusion will be ready. To spray seedlings, dilute 1 tsp. the resulting infusion in 1 liter of water.

spider mite

The spider mite is practically invisible to the human eye. It is possible to understand that the pest has settled on seedlings only when it the leaves will start to wilt And turn yellow, and on their reverse side will appear small black dots.

With severe damage to plants, leaves appear on the leaves chlorotic spots with punctate necrosis, which is clearly visible spider web.As in previous cases, prevent mass destruction spider mite seedlings can be done by regularly inspecting the plants and creating optimal growing conditions for them. If you notice on the underside of the leaves single black dots, try spraying the plants regularly with water.

If the pest managed to seriously "spoil" the seedlings, use insecticides - Fufanon, Chemix, Iskra M, Aktellik, Fitoverm, etc. Fitoverm is an insecticide of natural origin, which is used to combat piercing-sucking pests. The concentration of the drug solution is calculated based on which pest it is used against.

To protect seedlings from aphids, 8-12 ml of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water, from spider mites - 2 ml, from thrips - 20 ml. The duration of the protective action of Fitoverm is about 5 days, therefore, repeated treatments (if necessary) are carried out no later than after 7-8 days. You can avoid the appearance of most pests on seedlings if you create optimal conditions for plants.

Keep this in mind so that in the future you do not resort to the help of chemicals. Well, if you still have to use insecticides, do not forget about the precautions.

Diseases of tomatoes, on tomatoes: late blight, tobacco mosaic, whitefly

Tomato bushes are persistent and tenacious, they do not easily surrender to either infections or affectionate insects. But even poisonous leaves and stems of plants do not frighten pests.

What are the most dangerous threats to tomatoes? How can you fight them?

Phytophthora on tomatoes, tomatoes

All green parts of the plant V open ground covered brown spots without clear boundaries and forms. They engulf the bushes like an inevitable fire. Leaves get wet if wet, or dry out. Stems may break off.

Only ripened fruits are saved, but green and brown ones have no chance of surviving.

When phytophthora appears. Black-brown tomato plague - Phytophthora is getting younger every year - it begins to kill plants as early as July. And any geographical space is submissive to it.

The causative agent is a mushroom. It infects tomatoes and potatoes, but other nightshade plants - peppers and eggplants - do not touch.

Measures to combat late blight on tomatoes

What are the main methods of combating phytophthora. No drug is 100% effective. However, timely spraying with fungicides restrains the attack of the disease. The first treatment should be preventive: profit gold (6 g per 10 liters of water).

The second is carried out after 2-3 weeks at a dose of 15 g per 10 liters of water of both drugs.

Safe or folk remedies. Usually, folk remedies are used against phytophthora. But they are of little help.

- Infusion of garlic: take 100 g of slices, grind, pour 2 liters of water, cover, insist for half an hour and spray the tomatoes with this gruel. - Apply a yeast solution: take 100 g of yeast per 10 liters of water.

If the disease has just begun, a solution of 5% iodine (10 ml per 10 liters of water) is effective. After 3 days, the "shower" is repeated. The solution is stored in closed unlimited time in a dark place, and it can be used to spray other plants against all fungal diseases.

Improve the resistance of tomatoes you can feed every 10 days, alternating a 1:10 solution of mullein with ash infusion (1 cup per 10 liters of water). If the leaves curl, exclude superphosphate from dressings and increase the proportion of potassium sulfate and urea.

And flowering and fruiting are delayed - they use nitrogen supplements. When the flowers fall, the bushes are sprayed with a solution boric acid(1 g per 1 liter of water), and when the ovaries fall off, they are fed with a solution of mullein (1:10), adding to it in a bucket matchbox ammonium nitrate or urea.

Very good microbiological preparations, which are based on natural bacteria. Before planting, seedlings are sprayed with a solution of phytosporin-M or alirin-B, or they are watered with soil.

A week later, the same medicine is again well cultivated around the bushes, and then the plants themselves. Repeat the procedure every 2-3 weeks.

On tomatoes, tomatoes, tobacco mosaic virus

Tobacco mosaic virus is known worldwide. Smokers play a significant role in the spread. They throw cigarettes anywhere, do not wash their hands after smoking breaks.

The virus causes light and dark green spots in the form of "encrustation" on the leaves or dark swellings. Gray-brown areas of dead pulp appear inside the fruits. When does the tobacco mosaic virus appear?

Infection can be seen very early on already oppressed seedlings, as it persists in the seeds. The virus is also carried by the gardeners themselves during pinching. The mosaic is especially clearly visible in the summer during the milky ripeness of the fruit.

Often the leaves on the bushes become wrinkled or narrow, like a fern.

Tobacco mosaic virus control measures

Robust measures to combat tobacco mosaic virus. Seeds before sowing are kept for 20 minutes in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. They also water plants from a young age 2-3 times at three-week intervals.

Burn all seedlings with signs of a mosaic.

Safe measures to combat tobacco mosaic virus. Most The best way- prevention. Seeds are bought only from responsible companies.

Do not plant tomatoes after peppers, eggplant, potatoes. Steam sterilize the soil and pots for seedlings, as well as all the tools that touched the plants. Wash hands with soap before work. Tomatoes are suitable only in clean clothes and shoes.

Quit smoking immediately! Or do it outside the site. Choose Virus Resistant Tomatoes tobacco mosaic.

Of the novelties, these are mainly F1 hybrids (Azov, Axioma, Almaz, Barcelona, ​​Bogota, Buran, Bourgeois, Glamour, Caprice, Magnum M, Lezginka, Ostozhenka, Rally, Pink spam, Rosaliza, Sirtaki, Fat neighbor, Yakimanka) and the Tsarevich variety .

Whitefly on tomatoes, tomatoes

Whiteflies - these small white flies, the most dangerous pest of tomatoes. They are not found in open ground, but in winter greenhouses they sometimes completely cover tomato leaves.

When whiteflies appear on tomatoes, tomatoes. Indoors, whiteflies can live for almost all year round, but are especially numerous in the second half of summer and autumn. They hide on the underside of the leaves and suck the sap from the plants like aphids.

In addition, sooty fungi often settle on the sticky sugary secretions of the insect, which leave a black coating. It's called "black". Due to whiteflies, tomatoes can ripen unevenly and turn white from the inside.

Measures and methods of dealing with whiteflies

Reliable ways to deal with whitefly. The most effective preparations are Commander (1.5 g per 10 liters of water) and Iskra-M from whitefly caterpillars (5 ml - 1 ampoule - per 10 liters of water). They spray plants after harvesting if they want to take them to the city.

Safe ways to deal with whitefly. Ventilate the greenhouse, thoroughly wash the lower parts of the leaves with clean water, where the whitefly accumulates in large numbers. Yellow baits are used, to which insects stick.

The biopreparation Boverin also helps. Return to the table of contents - Gardening

How to deal with whitefly?

21.03.2014 |

The whitefly butterfly brings a lot of trouble: due to the constant laying of larvae, the leaves on the plants become like a colander, they get sick and eventually die. Since each larva is covered with a waxy substance on top, chemical aerosols do not affect it in any way, the whitefly is removed only by mechanical means.

For example, in the room is suitable a fly trap in the form of sticky tape or wiping the leaves of houseplants with a damp cloth. Another thing is when the whitefly appeared in the garden: a one-time treatment will not work, you need to prevent the laying of eggs on the leaves and carry out prophylaxis every week.

Summer residents who water the garden with a hose have an advantage in this sense, since the larvae are not deposited on wet leaves, and this is a huge plus in the fight against insects that breed in the thousands. What can harm the whitefly?

The pest of gardens and orchards is a small insect - a whitefly butterfly. It is translucent, with a wing length of about 3 mm, something outwardly resembles a moth. It multiplies very quickly, in one day it can lay up to 280 eggs, which after 48 hours become full-fledged individuals and begin to eat borage and tomato leaves, which can cause the plant to die.

How to deal with whitefly at home?

As a solution for washing, we use yarrow, which is brewed as follows: for 1 liter. boiling water you need 80 gr. dry herbs insist in a thermos for about 2 hours. An alternative is a soap solution: 1 part laundry soap to 6 parts water.

If the whitefly started up in the garden ... How to deal with the whitefly in a greenhouse or on open area vegetable garden? Among the insecticides used: "Aktara", "Akarin", and "Phosbecid", the method of dilution with water is indicated on the package.

You need to spray every bush, some specimens can be dipped directly into the bucket. Remember that a more concentrated dose of solution is used for irrigation than for spraying. effective remedy to kill the whitefly.

It is diluted with water in a ratio of 30 ml per 1 liter. water and spray bushes. Against the whitefly on tomatoes that grow in a greenhouse, there are many ways to fight that do not damage the tomato crop. A preventive measure is to cover the windows with gauze.

Should be hung on the ceiling sticky traps. But if the invasion has occurred, it is necessary to treat each leaf of the tomato with an insecticide designed specifically for plants growing in greenhouse conditions.

If the procedure is carried out within a month (once every three days), then it will not be difficult to defeat the whitefly. Sometimes even the smell scares away butterflies, so they try to fly away from the place of processing.

Interestingly, whiteflies get used to frequently used drugs, so it is better to alternate them. Often experienced gardeners it is advised to use a solution of laundry soap as a spray, but it is better if you brush each leaf of a tomato with a solution - this will significantly reduce the insect population. At the slightest appearance of whiteflies, this procedure should be carried out daily, especially during the period when the ovaries are actively growing. Remember that the yield of tomatoes fully depends on the quality of the flowers.

Together with the article "How to deal with the whitefly?" also read.

This small butterfly can cause serious damage to a tomato grown in a greenhouse.

The whitefly is a small moth that looks like a moth.

  • The length reaches 3 mm.
  • The wings and body are painted in a whitish hue, white pollen is “scattered” on the surface, hence the name.
  • The nutrition of an adult individual and its larvae is vegetable juice, which very soon leads the plant to death.
  • First, the leaves lose their color - they become white, then gradually the whole plant dries out, the bush dies.

pest invasion

Usually, the whitefly invasion can be expected in summer, when the temperature is not lower than twenty degrees, however, frequent rains are noted.

The whitefly appears when a sufficiently high temperature is combined with high humidity.

The midge feels comfortable in the so-called greenhouse state - when at high temperature there is a fairly high level of humidity. If the temperature is below ten degrees, the adult moth dies, but the eggs remain viable, they can comfortably overwinter in the hibernation stage.

Most suitable conditions regardless of the season - greenhouses, greenhouses, greenhouses.

Provoking factors

The dense plantings impair ventilation, increase humidity and, as a result, create optimal conditions for the development of whiteflies.

The main provocateur is a gardener, that is, those conditions that, through ignorance or mistake, a person creates.

Provocative moments:

  • planting density;
  • lack of ventilation;
  • spraying at high humidity;
  • improper use of fertilizers;
  • absence of biostimulants.

Many gardeners believe that the greenhouse protects the culture from all misfortunes, especially from insects, so they often plant seedlings too close to each other. However, this opinion is fundamentally wrong, since the whitefly prefers closed spaces.

How to save a greenhouse from whitefly

The greenhouse must certainly have properly equipped ventilation.

The humidity level in the greenhouse is best controlled using an automatic window opener.

Combination of two factors - the lack of ventilation and the density of plantings provoke not only the appearance of insects, but also the occurrence of other diseases, since the bushes do not receive fresh air, a greenhouse effect occurs. If it rains heavily outside, the humidity is high, it means that the humidity inside the structure also rises, so the plant receives enough moisture, and there is no need to additionally spray the bushes.

It is desirable to make the window in the greenhouse large in order to be able to fine-tune.

On one leaf, you can immediately see both butterflies and whitefly larvae.

Among other things, the symptoms of the lesion will be visible on the plant:

  • yellowness on the leaves;
  • drying of leaf plates;
  • the presence of larvae on the lower surface;
  • the presence of a sticky coating;
  • spots.

Primary signs appear on the sheets

Leaf plates begin to turn yellow, gradually curl, dry out, crumble. If you lift a leaf or a thick stem, you can see many translucent larvae.

Females lay eggs, from which larvae appear after a week, and nymphs appear after another 14 days.


Fighting methods

The whitefly feeds on the sap from the plant, causing the leaves to dry out.

There are mechanical, biological, chemical methods. Often people use folk methods.

Mechanical Methods

  1. Take one part of soap and six parts of water, prepare a soap solution.
  2. In this solution, a cloth is moistened, with which all parts of the culture are washed.

A solution of ordinary soap is the most affordable means of dealing with whiteflies.

Making traps

A simple trap made of yellow paper smeared with a sticky mass.

Mechanical assistance also consists in preparing traps.

It is believed that adult butterflies flock to yellow, so many farmers use this fact to catch pests.

  1. To do this, plywood, cardboard or other strong material is painted in a yellow tint.
  2. Honey is applied to the surface of the trap, Castor oil or vaseline.
  3. Traps are attached next to the greenhouse.

In gardening stores you can buy ready-made designs.

Whitefly night trap

To make a trap you will need:

  • plastic box;
  • foil;
  • water tray;
  • cartridge;
  • orange incandescent lamp;
  • cord.

The night trap is made from improvised material.

The workflow is very simple and clear from the photo:

We turn on the light bulb at night, and in the morning we see the result:

Biological methods

As biological methods of dealing with whiteflies, it is meant to attract insects - enemies of moths that do not pose a danger to either tomatoes or people.

Folk ways

Experienced gardeners are sure that garlic infusion repels whiteflies.

From folk remedies use garlic.

  1. For one liter of water, one hundred and fifty grams of chopped garlic, insist a week.
  2. Garlic liquid is sprayed on the culture at intervals of four or five days, until the pest is completely destroyed.

But they also prepare infusion of yarrow . Grind the grass, measure out one hundred grams, pour boiling water (1 l), insist for a day. Tomatoes are sprayed several times.

It is allowed to apply dandelion infusion . One hundred grams of grass is steamed with one liter of boiling water, left for a day.

It is necessary to separately indicate that folk remedies are effective in the initial stage of the lesion, that is, while there is not so much pest, otherwise a dubious effect will result.

chemicals

Chemical agents are mainly used in the form of purchased ready-made complexes.

Chemical control methods are the most effective.

There is an opinion that it is possible to apply common dichlorvos , however, this remedy is too toxic primarily for fruits, hurts a person .

  • use Verticillin , which is dissolved in one liter of liquid, is treated every ten days until the whitefly disappears completely.
  • Recommended drug Pegasus- processed twice with an interval of twelve days.
  • Applicable Confidor- a means of prolonged action, sprayed once.
  • Actellik available in ampoules, which are diluted in water. The procedure is carried out twice.
  • It is recommended to use tobacco dust .

Important: if the farmer uses chemicals, the dosage indicated on the packaging must be strictly observed. Among other things, it is necessary to maintain the necessary interval for neutralization after spraying.

Prevention

Preventive actions include the purchase of healthy planting material.

  1. Every year, the greenhouse is disinfected with a solution blue vitriol or potassium permanganate.
  2. The earth is dug up, weeds, plant residues are removed.
  3. Mandatory measure - complete ventilation of the structure .
  4. If ventilation was not installed inside, after the end of the season, while the room is empty, it is imperative to provide an opportunity for ventilation.

Greenhouse tomatoes most often suffer from pests of various insects. A frequent guest on tomato beds is the whitefly, which affects the lion's share of plantings with its detrimental effect.

Description of the insect

The whitefly is a microscopic flying insect (body length is 2-3 millimeters), originating from the family of homoptera. Its tiny body is painted yellowish, and a pair of wings, which are twice the size of the insect itself, have a whitish-mealy hue. From a distance, clusters of whiteflies resemble aphids. The sticky sugary secretions that the pest leaves behind form a sooty fungus, which causes great harm to the tomato bush.

Fact!

The whitefly loves to settle not only on tomato bushes, but also on cucumbers, eggplants and others. vegetable crops.

Females lay their eggs directly on plants, or rather on the lower part of the leaves. In one clutch, you can count from 130 to 200 eggs. During the season, up to 15 generations of new whiteflies appear. The pale green, flat, needle-like larvae that emerge are very voracious. They feed on the juices of the leaf plate, as a result of which it quickly dries out and falls off. After the spirit of molting, the larvae turn into so-called nymphs, from which, after a couple of weeks, adults fly out.

Humid and warm greenhouse climate - perfect place distribution of the whitefly. When the temperature drops to +10 degrees, adults die, while eggs can even withstand frost.

Note!

The whitefly is a carrier of viral infections.

Signs of a pest

The whitefly appears on the bushes already 10-14 after planting the seedlings. It is quite easy to notice a breeding whitefly colony in a greenhouse, as the pest attacks the tomatoes with the whole flock. From this above the bushes you can see a white swarm of midges,
which upon closer inspection turns out to be a whitefly.

The underside of the leaves is completely covered with small yellowish clusters - egg clutches. And the "dining" places of the whitefly are covered with a viscous whitish dotted coating - a waste product of the insect. Pest, coupled with the development of an introduced infection, retards the development of plants. Stem atrophy occurs. Foliage turns yellow at the edges, curls, dries out. Rotting ring stains appear on the fruits.

Fighting methods

Getting rid of the ubiquitous whitefly is difficult, as its population grows rapidly throughout the summer. Therefore, it is necessary to systematically fight against small dirty tricks throughout the entire growing season of tomato bushes, competently using chemical, biological, mechanical and, of course, folk methods.

Biological methods

The most secure and effective methods, which also do not require large investments. Why is the whitefly not very common in open ground? The answer is simple: because in unprotected areas, she herself is in danger. She loves to feast on God
cows, lacewings and other predatory insects. It is difficult for them to get into the greenhouse, and therefore the whitefly feels at ease there.

If you want to get rid of the annoying midge as soon as possible, then it’s enough to add its biological enemies to the greenhouse - a dozen ladybugs(or other insects such as macrolofus bugs, ecrasia, ichneumons), which will quickly catch all flying individuals.

For a more sophisticated hunt, an encarsia predator is suitable, which will “solve the issue” with the young whitefly offspring. It lays eggs directly into its larvae and then feeds on them. It remains only to get rid of adults.

Advice!

Do not put cow dung under tomatoes - it makes the soil fertile for various pests to settle in it.

A good help in pest control is the fumigation of the greenhouse. It is carried out during the preparation of the greenhouse for sowing. Various mixtures are prepared for processing. The means of fumigation include:

  • tobacco checker;
  • a sulfur candle;
  • smoke bomb.

Such manipulation allows you to get rid of pests of all ages.

Folk methods

The use of folk remedies is often effective in cases where the whitefly has just appeared and has not had time to lay offspring. For this purpose, tomatoes are sprayed with various decoctions and herbal infusions that the insect does not tolerate. In addition, they are absolutely harmless to plants and humans, they can be used several times per season.
One of the "tasteless" means is an infusion of garlic or tobacco. The insect repels and the smell of yarrow on the leaves of a tomato bush.

A mixture of dandelion (roots) or aloe that has fallen on tomatoes also disgusts the whitefly, and it flies away forever in search of new food. Well, everyone's favorite soap solution will cover the leaves with a barely noticeable film that will reliably protect the tops from various pests.

Advice!

Before processing plants, it is necessary to remove plaque and adult moths from the greenery.

Mechanical methods

They are considered additional, but, as practice has proven, they work very effectively. If various flying animals have just started up in the greenhouse, then you can collect it “manually”, or rather on sticky traps (fly traps or hand-made cardboard baits with the addition of a sticky layer - honey). Bright plates hung in different parts of the greenhouse will attract attention and "catch" pests. It remains only to remove the affected fragments from the tomato and burn them outside the greenhouse. If clutches of eggs are found, they can be removed with a sponge moistened with soapy water.

Fact!

Studies have shown that insects are attracted to blue and yellow colors. Therefore, all baits perform exactly in this color scheme.

Chemicals

And finally, if all other methods have not shown proper results, heavy artillery is used. Chemicals are very effective in controlling greenhouse pests, but meanwhile they are toxic, and therefore they must be used carefully and only before the tomato begins to ripen. Otherwise, poison will get on the fruits.

Note!

Treatment with chemicals is stopped 21 days before harvest.

Basically, all insecticides help to cope with several types of insects at once. So,
for example, the preparations "Aktellik", "Malathion", "Aktara", "Cypermethrin", "Iskra-M", "Talstar" also save from bedbugs and aphids. Well-known targeted drugs also include: Verticillin, Confidor, Rovikur, Mospilan, Pegasus, Fufanon. In case of severe damage by bloodsuckers, the treatment is repeated 2-3 times, but only according to the instructions. Thoughtless use of chemicals can lead to damage to the crop.

Of the known means, aerosols "Kra-Deo", "Super" are considered the best.

In addition to chemical preparations, fumigators such as Biotlin and Warrant can handle the whitefly.

Prevention

In the fight against the whitefly, all means are good, but it is better not to allow the annoying pest to tomato plantings at all. Taking preventive measures will significantly reduce the risk
the appearance of an insect and will help preserve the crop.

Prevention includes:

  • seed treatment before sowing with a manganese solution;
  • destruction of the weed after harvest;
  • deep digging of the soil in the offseason;
  • incorporation into the soil of only rotted organic matter;
  • not leaving manure heaps for the winter - this is a great place for the wintering of the whitefly;
  • maintaining the distance between seedlings for better air circulation;
  • greenhouse microclimate control (regular airing, competent watering);
  • the acquisition of varieties resistant to diseases and pests;
  • adding a handful of chicken manure to the wells when planting seedlings - this will increase the immunity of the tomato;
  • regular tillage - weeding, loosening, airing.

Conclusion

Each gardener independently chooses a way to get rid of the pest, depending on the growing conditions of tomatoes and the number of insects. Methods can be combined with each other or used locally. The main thing is to do everything on time and following the instructions - only then you can defeat the enemy.


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