How to sheathe walls with clapboard - instructions from a specialist. How to sheathe a frame house from the outside How to properly sheathe walls with clapboard inside

Facade decoration country house vinyl siding has become very popular today. Therefore, the range of vinyl panels is constantly growing in the construction markets, and in addition, the list of companies providing services for the installation of such structures is expanding every day.
Of course, this is convenient, but do not forget that such services cost money and, moreover, a lot, and as you know, when building a country house, every penny is counted. So, if you agree with this, then it’s better to take it and sheathe the walls of the house with your own hands, especially since there is nothing complicated in this work. Yes, and don’t say anything, but the proverb is right - “if you want it to be good, do it yourself!” But it will be so, if only everything is done correctly. But we will now tell you about how to properly sheathe a house with siding with your own hands.

We do house siding!

First of all, you need to decide on the required amount of sheathing material. After all, if in the course of work the material is not enough, then this will lead to unnecessary trouble - you will have to stop work, go to the market, look for the same store to buy an additional batch. What will happen if the panels of the type you need suddenly run out, it’s not worth telling, this is already clear. On the other hand, buying oversized siding is still a waste of money. Therefore, it is so important to be able to correctly calculate the exact number of panels.

To do this, you must first measure the width and height of each wall of the house, which is supposed to be sheathed. Further, by multiplying the length by the width, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe surfaces is calculated. Adding the areas of all surfaces, we get the total area.

The same algorithm determines the total area of ​​openings - door and window. The result obtained is subtracted from the total wall area calculated in the previous step.

After that, it remains only to calculate required amount panels, for which the previously obtained result is divided by the area of ​​​​one panel: N \u003d S / (in x a), where:

N - the required number of panels
S is the total area of ​​the walls minus the area of ​​the openings.
in - the length of the siding panel
a - panel width

Installation of siding involves the use of additional fasteners. These include corners (internal and external), connectors, start and finish rails, and special trim panels. window openings. The amount of related materials is determined based on specific conditions and the calculated number of panels. In order not to be mistaken, it is better to ask for advice from the sellers of specialized construction stores.

Vinyl siding can be mounted in two ways - directly on the wall or on a special frame. The first option is preferable when finishing wooden walls, for example, a house made of logs or glued beams.

Such houses are characterized by increased resistance to frost and, as a rule, do not need additional thermal insulation. This significantly reduces the amount of preparatory work: it will only be necessary to close up the gaps and temporarily dismantle all attachments, such as drain pipes, for example.

In the event that the walls of a country house require additional insulation, you will have to resort to using a second, more complex technology. For her, you will first need to arrange a crate of wooden battens over the walls of the house. The frequency of the carrier rails depends on the configuration of the selected panels, as well as their orientation in space - vertically, horizontally (preferred) or diagonally.

The distance between the crate and the main wall of the house depends on the type of insulation chosen, which is laid in this particular space. Required condition effective thermal insulation - the use of vapor barrier materials during its construction that protect the insulation from moisture.

Whichever mounting option is chosen, a crate is used or the siding is mounted directly on the wall, self-tapping screws are used as a fastener, which are screwed into the holes provided on the siding panels specifically for this purpose.

Instead of self-tapping screws, ordinary nails can be used, but in this case there is a risk of damaging the panel without calculating the depth of the nail. The fact is that during installation it is necessary to leave a small gap between the head of the screw or nail and the surface of the panel. In summer, at elevated temperatures, the siding panels expand and the lack of a gap leads to their deformation.

The panels are connected to each other by inserting the lock of the mounted panel into a special bend of the previous one. Thanks to this technology, you can completely sheathe the house and at the same time provide a perfectly flat surface of the facade. That's only possible only if the integrity of each panel used. At the final stage of the work, the joints of the panels are decorated with special accessories. As you can see, it will not be difficult to sheathe the walls with your own hands if they are even and you clearly follow the instructions.

Record dated: 12-31-2014

Today, many owners of residential and non-residential premises use lining as a facing material for walls, because of its high quality and ease of use. However, indeed quality material is not cheap, you may want to save money and sheathe the walls with clapboard on your own. In principle, this is not difficult to do, and now we will consider how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard.

Preparatory process

Choosing a material

There are 2 lining options: wooden and plastic (PVC). Of course, high-quality wood is preferable: it is durable, environmentally friendly, has good soundproofing and heat-retaining properties. But if you are making repairs in a room where humidity is high, you should use PVC. Other characteristics of the room also matter. For example, it is better not to use pine for a bath, because when heated, it begins to release resins, and the appearance of the room will be spoiled.

Cooking material

So, you have made your choice and now you need to prepare the material for further work. The tree must be treated with special means that will prevent the processes of decay, mold formation and damage by insects. You can also treat the planks with azure to give them the desired color. In conclusion, the strips must be brought into the room and allowed to rest for a day, in order to adapt to temperature conditions.

We install the crate

When the material is ready, you can immediately start work. Of course, in order to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard, you must first install the crate. This is done as follows:

1. Pre-prepare the wall. We apply a special moisture-proof putty on it if part of the wall is sometimes wet. If the walls require insulation, then first we lay the insulation and cover it with a vapor barrier, which, among other things, will improve sound insulation.

2. We take a purchased or home-made rail with a section of 20mm x 40mm (if the wall is absolutely flat, then 10mm x 15mm is possible) and fasten it with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver perpendicular to the direction of mounting the panels at a distance of 40 - 50 cm from each other. By the way, the bars also need to be pre-treated with the same materials as the lining.

3. With the help of the mounting level, we check how evenly the rails are installed. If the walls are uneven, you will have to level the crate. To do this, we put a piece of timber, plywood or a mounting wedge under the rail, fix the structure with long self-tapping screws or dowels. We do a level check.

4. We install the slats at the bottom at a distance of 3 cm to 5 cm from the floor for laying floor covering.

5. We fasten the crate along the ceiling, in the corners, around the window and doorways. And we proceed to the installation of lining.

wall cladding

Half of the work is ready, now it remains to correctly sheathe the clapboard walls. To do this, you need to determine the method of fastening the material. There are several of them. You can drive nails obliquely on the tongue side, you can fasten the plank with a clip on the groove side, or when using offset profile planks with any of the fastening materials.

With vertical sheathing of walls, you need to start moving from the left corner. The distance between the lining strips and the ceiling should be 5 mm. The distance to the floor covering should be 10 - 15 mm. De-energize and dismantle all electrical appliances. We fix the first lining and check its level, if everything is in order, we fix it with self-tapping screws. Next, we insert the protruding part of the next plank into the groove of the first and snap it, after which, just like the previous one, we attach it to the crate. We pass like this along all the walls to the end.

As for the horizontal sheathing, it is not very different from the vertical one. It always starts from the ceiling, so that the grooves are directed downwards. The lining can always be shortened or cut, in order to properly distribute around the window or door.

Next, we mount the starting profile, leaning its long part against the crate. We fix it with self-tapping screws from the inside. We insert the lining into the groove of the final profile and push it tightly. This method is suitable for PVC panels. For wooden lining there are also special decorative profiles that will help hide the joints at the corners, give an aesthetic look to the framing of windows and doors. Now the work is completed. This is how you can properly sheathe the clapboard walls.

Walls and corners, especially those of a log building, need maintenance. They must be insulated from the outside. Consider how to sheathe a house with do-it-yourself siding in combination with insulation measures. Let's say a few words about the features of finishing a garage or other outbuildings.

What was siding for?

This construction material is in great demand. He is unpretentious in maintenance, he is not afraid of the vagaries of the weather, and the plates themselves are lightweight and easy to install. So it is convenient to decorate a barn or garage. But why are they sheathed at home, schools and kindergartens? This is because the rise in the price of electricity has affected everyone, and it is becoming more and more difficult to pay kilometer bills.

What to do? Naturally, it is necessary to insulate houses and it is better to do it outside, especially if there is not too much living space anyway. Almost all heaters are afraid of exposure sun rays, excessive moisture and other natural phenomena, and some sheathing materials like natural wood get wet from the rain.

Siding panels do not have these disadvantages. They will perfectly protect the walls and the insulation attached to them from negative impact weather. Vinyl, metal and other types of siding are sheathed not only at home with and without insulation, but also garages, warehouses, sheds and others utility rooms, because their walls also need protection from the vagaries of the weather. Sometimes only the facade of the building is decorated, because such material also copes with this function remarkably well.

We sheathe a barn or garage - why metal?

Detailed instructions on how to work with the most common type - vinyl siding, we will consider a little lower. Moreover, for the walls and facade of the house you need a lot of panels, it will be somewhat cheaper than other materials. But the garage or barn can be sheathed with metal. If possible, then it is better to purchase material with a polymer coating. It will be more wear-resistant, and its service life reaches 50 years. Fire resistance also belongs to the indisputable advantages, which is so important, especially if it is necessary to finish the walls of a garage or a warehouse in which combustible substances are stored. In addition, due to their excellent strength, such panels are in demand when sheathing shops, gas stations and even factories with factories.

After making the necessary calculations and purchasing the material you like with components, you can proceed to installation work. We remove all the elements from the walls of the garage so that they are as free as possible. Then we clean them of dirt and, if necessary, primer. Next, we assemble the frame from the profiles, keeping the distance between the cells at least 60 cm and not more than 1 m. Do not forget to leave a technological gap for ventilation, 5-10 cm is enough.

Since this type of siding has a long service life, the frame should be made only from galvanized profiles.. Don't use for it wooden slats, they will rot much earlier than the sheathing material becomes unusable. And if, for example, you have a wooden shed (often these utility rooms are made of timber), then such a crate will also allow you to level the surface.

You need to work with gloves, otherwise you can get hurt on the sharp edges of the planks, and you should cut the panels with safety glasses. Metal strips are assembled in the same way as plastic ones, from the bottom up. Below is the starting, and the final - finishing bar, and during their installation, a gap of 5 mm should be maintained. To protect the interior of the facade from precipitation, you can stick a special sealant on the frame around the openings, and then press it with metal sheets. In all other respects, the process of sheathing a garage, warehouse or barn takes place according to the instructions described in next paragraph.

How to work with panels?

To protect the walls, and especially the facades of stone and wooden houses with insulation, sheathing them with siding, you will have to spend a lot of time, as there are a lot of calculations and fittings, because we decided to finish the housing with our own hands.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Calculations

Absolutely any construction works begin with preparation, because this is the key to the speed and quality of the result. Produced first. It is best to schematically draw the building and indicate all dimensions (walls, facade, window and door openings, etc.). Further, remembering the lessons of mathematics for grade 5, we perform elementary calculations. Openings are subtracted from the total area, but if the latter are few and they small sizes, then this action can be ignored. Then you will buy a little extra cladding material, and you will have the opportunity to replace damaged panels in the future.

Step 2: Material selection

Siding differs in color, material, size, there are many configurations and, of course, the main parameter is product quality. The vinyl version is in great demand for cladding the facade or private buildings around the entire perimeter. The planks of this hard plastic are very strong and hardy. It also has the added benefit of being durable and easy to maintain. Simply wash the cover and it will be like new. A huge range of colors and a variety of designs will allow you to choose the material for every taste. When choosing a product in a store, inspect all the elements. Defects are unacceptable, the panels must be of the same thickness over the entire area. The presence of a special lock against hurricanes and double-sided painting indicate good quality. Ask sales assistants to present a certificate for the goods.

Step 3: Tools and Accessories

Having bought a set of vinyl, wood or other siding with which you are going to sheathe the building yourself, you can start preparing the tool and it is better to select it depending on the type of house - whether you built it from timber or brick, did it with or without insulation. We need profiles, corners and accessories. If the latter did not come with the panels, then they should be purchased separately. Also prepare a building level, a corner, a hammer, a long tape measure and a pencil. It is convenient to cut the panels with an electric saw, but you can also use scissors for metal. Do not forget the perforator, without it the installation of the crate cannot be completed, especially when the house is not made of timber, but something harder. When choosing fasteners, make sure that they are not afraid of corrosion, because we are talking about outdoor work.

Step 4: Surface preparation

We dismantle all removable parts, these include drainpipes, visors, platbands, shutters and other elements that may interfere with work. There are especially a lot of them on the facade, so you can start from this part of the house. Having freed up the area as much as possible, we proceed to the walls. If they already have any protective coating, then it should also be removed. Next, we check the processed plane with a level. The difference should not be more than 15 mm, otherwise the unevenness will be noticeable even after facing.

If you have to sheathe wooden house(for example, from a bar) or a log shed, then be sure to treat its walls with a primer that will prevent them from rotting. Reinforced concrete and stone surfaces are covered with special antiseptics, often a garage is made like this. If outside the window is rainy weather or high humidity, it is better to postpone work until later, since the surface to be treated must be absolutely dry.

In the autumn, store the panels in the house or in another warm room, as, being in the cold, they become excessively fragile, which will complicate installation.

Step 5: Installing the batten

You can attach protective material without a frame, but this will significantly worsen the quality of work, so it’s better not to be lazy and make a crate. Construction profiles are perfect for it, but it is allowed to use wooden beam(profile approximately 50x50). Only there are a few reservations about such a crate. It is desirable that the length of the timber be greater than the height of the building. And if you still decide to give preference to natural wood, make sure that it is dry, otherwise the frame will lead over time, this will be most noticeable on the facade, where there are many joints and transitions.

We start installation from the left corner. Perpendicular to the carrier bar, we install each new lath of the crate in increments of about 35 cm. Be sure to tie all the openings with the carrier profile and leave room for communications and outdoor lighting. Profiles are mounted on special fasteners-suspensions. There should be at least 4 pieces per rail 3 m long. Under one suspension, we drill two holes directed towards each other, hammer plastic plugs into them and install fasteners, fixing it with self-tapping screws. Be sure to check the vertical and horizontal of the "skeleton", for this we need a level with a plumb line.

Foundation sheathing

Now we have come to the very exciting question- fastening of protective strips. The lower part of the house is sheathed with plinth panels, which are characterized by increased strength. Further, stepping back 10 mm from the basement siding, a starting strip is installed on the wall. It is mounted to vertical racks using self-tapping screws. Use the level and follow the horizontal, because how correctly this element will be set depends general form. Do not forget about the corners, the panels can be launched on top of each other. If there are window openings, then the connecting profiles should be mounted in their center.

Step 8: Mounting the panels

Further, everything is quite simple. Planks are easily cut with a grinder, while it is desirable to use thin discs. Each row is inserted into the previous one from the bottom up. Constantly check the horizontal level with a level. The panels are fixed with special self-tapping screws with press washers. The fasteners are screwed in strictly in the middle of the perforation, while it is better to under-compress them a little (about 1 mm). Be sure to pay special attention to panel joints. Planks should not be displaced relative to each other.

Step 9: Door and Window Openings

Siding will serve as an excellent material for framing houses. If you want buildings lined with these plastic panels, had original appearance, which is especially true for the facade, you can experiment with colors. For example, it is beautiful when framing around openings and plinth panels several shades different from the main color. Sometimes the bottom is made dark, and the framing elements, on the contrary, are chosen white. Special J-shaped profiles are mounted around the openings, and the resulting frame is sheathed with near-window strips. The final is a special finishing strip.

The popularity of cladding material is not accidental. Log houses, although they have a presentable appearance, age over time, do not look very attractive and require updating. In addition to the aesthetic component, the lining is also practical. About this and the steps self-assembly below.

Benefits of cladding

The material is a plank of wood, equipped with a tongue-and-groove lock. Like any wood raw material, it has advantages and disadvantages. Among the first:

• Ecology.
• Appearance.
• Possibility to hide insulation.
• Ease of installation.

The second include:

• Ability to biological damage.
• Shrinkage along with the house.
• Flammability.
• Price.

What is good material for objects? Firstly, log houses lined with clapboard are warmer, since the corresponding polymers or mineral options are placed under the lining. Secondly, in this way, they hide an unpresentable secondary timber or a structure, the age of which is estimated in tens of years.

To save their own money, they buy lining of two types - ordinary and euro. The latter is distinguished by impeccable geometry, deep grooves and absolute dryness. It is used on interior surfaces.

How to sheathe a log house with clapboard correctly. Instruction

To start home master tools will be required: a hacksaw, a drill, a hammer, a level, a marker, a 50 * 50 mm crate timber. And the material itself. Work is carried out according to the following rules:

1. Surface marking for the frame. First, they are determined with the desired position of the lining on it. If it is horizontal, then the frame of the bars should be arranged vertically and vice versa. The step of the crate is the width of the insulation if the surface is being processed inside the house, and a little more often outside, when mineral slabs and styrenes will not be laid. Range 50-70 cm. Attachment points are marked with a colored marker.
2. Laying a vapor membrane inside and waterproofing on the outer walls. This is an axiom, without protective coatings, the lining will fall into a deplorable state. Fasten the material with a stapler or tape. Adhesives are unacceptable, as the wood will stop breathing.
3. Using a level, fill the crate. All edges of the bars must be in the same plane, the even position of the entire skin depends on this. By the way, for internal surfaces the width of the bars should be 1.5 cm more than the thickness of the insulation layers. Otherwise, close contact will lead to blockage of ventilation, the main guarantee of the durability of wood.
4. Laying styrenes or mineral wool. The material must fit snugly without gaps. It is best to use progressive products - the fibers have a lot of complaints, both in terms of quality and environmental.
5. Sheathing directly. It starts from the bottom up. The first bar is strengthened with the selected fasteners - self-tapping screws, decorative nails and other things.

The second one is put on it and pressed tightly. And further according to the established pattern. Thus, sheathed with clapboard log house with your own hands.

There are several rules for inside and outside. About them below.

The nuances of facing the surfaces of the house:

Aggressive environments - humidity, temperature differences, cold and heat, can affect the lining and its fastening. By following the recommendations, damage to the material can be avoided.

Internal walls

• Before work, the building product must stand in the house for at least a month. Otherwise, starting to interact with a warm room, the raw material will dry already on the walls, which will undoubtedly lead to shrinkage and warpage.
• Each plank needs to be treated with all kinds of compounds for protection - moisture resistant, heat resistant. It is better to use each composition separately - universal options do not give a good effect.
• The device of the ventilating channels between lining and a heater. As already mentioned above, the gap is at least 1.5 cm.
• Use special clamps for fastening. This is more aesthetic - with possible drying, the nails can look out.

With progressive parts, this will not happen. In addition, with an erroneous process, it will not be difficult to return and redo everything. Wherein beautiful material will remain untouched.

External walls

• The lining boards are fixed strictly with a groove top. To prevent rainwater from entering and stagnating in the grooves.
• When strengthening the crate, the timber frames the window and door openings.
• Use the rules for internal walls- Necessarily. Protection and fasteners should not differ from the place of work.

It is not difficult to sheathe a clapboard with your own log house with your own hands.

Lining has the advantage of eliminating defects and redoing the result, but if you approach the issue in detail, then the latter will not happen.

Durable, beautiful and comfortable facing material- lining - can often be found in the interior decoration of apartments and houses. It can be used both in the country and when finishing the sauna; metal or plastic lining in some cases is used even when finishing facades. The secret of the beauty of walls finished with clapboard is fully revealed only with strict observance of the laying technology of this material. Therefore, the question of how to sheathe the surfaces inside the house with clapboard correctly with your own hands is very important: you can spend time and labor, but not achieve the desired result.

A room lined with clapboard looks stylish

Choosing a material

If the choice of lining for interior decoration is made, then it is better to dwell on the following material options:

• wood;
• Fiberboard / chipboard;
• MDF panels;
• plastic.

It is not by chance that plastic is put in last place: despite the obvious cost-effectiveness, rich color palette and ease of operation, it is still not environmentally friendly and mechanically strong enough to completely cover the walls with it. In addition, the material, although sufficiently resistant to elevated temperatures, nevertheless, does not differ in increased fire resistance. Already at 100°C and above, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) - the main part of the plastic lining - emits bad smell, and for even more high temperatures starts to smolder.

The metal lining is too heavy to sheathe a room with it. In addition, in the warm season, a room finished with such material will heat up very intensively.

Of the remaining three options, preference in most cases is given to wood products. The fact is that the walls covered with clapboard made of pressed wood-shaving materials must subsequently be painted or covered with transparent varnishes that imitate one or another type of wood. This will delay for some time the work on finishing the house inside.

MDF lining needs to be varnished

If the choice is made in the direction of wooden lining, then in advance you should choose the optimal color and texture solution for the panels. With a large positive superiority over other materials in terms of environmental friendliness, excellent noise protection, and low thermal conductivity, wood paneling is a rather expensive material.

Therefore, if you decide to sheathe the house with a clapboard made of wood with your own hands, then you should focus on the highest quality grades of material - Extra, A or B. Class C lining is suitable for finishing the technical premises of the house - a pantry, a hallway.

In addition to the class of finish, the type of wood also matters. For example, lining made of coniferous trees is easy to install and will provide the most healthy atmosphere. A room lined with such material will never leave the fragrant smell of resin.

Getting ready to install

The room must first be prepared for laying: carry out all internal wiring, mark places for sockets and switches. It is worth doing this, taking into account not only the ease of use, but also taking into account the dimensions of the panels to be mounted, so that later you do not make unnecessary joints and do not install additional trims. The same applies to places where there is a window or doorway.

It is necessary to prepare for laying not only the room, but also the lining itself. If the walls are sheathed with clapboard during the cold season, then the material brought from the store must be aged in the room for at least two days. When do-it-yourself sheathing of rooms with high humidity (for example, inside the bathroom), all panels should be treated with moisture-resistant varnish (preferably in 2 layers), let them dry and only then begin installation. Between the first and second coatings, the material is treated with emery cloth to increase the smoothness of the surface.

From necessary tools for do-it-yourself sheathing you will need:

• hacksaw,
• construction stapler,
• hammer,
• plumb line,
• level,
• core

To work, you need a set of tools

Preparing the surface for cladding

There are few ways to lay the lining inside, you have to choose from three:

• vertical;
• horizontal;
• inclined laying.

The latter method is much less common: it is difficult and costly to sheathe surfaces at an angle with your own hands, but there are no visible advantages. original look finish coat, No. In other cases, they are guided by the following rules:

1. For wall cladding in the attic, only horizontal cladding is used.
2. Vertical cladding visually increases the height of the room.
3. Horizontal cladding visually makes the room wider.

Having decided on the laying method, they begin to prepare the walls - they must be even, which is checked by a plumb line. All surface flaws must be eliminated: cracks are puttied, recesses are sealed with mortar. If the house is not wooden, then it joins the wall sheet insulation. In combination with air gap between the crate and the wall, it will serve as an additional barrier to heat leakage.

It is necessary to correctly perform the crate under the lining

The lathing planks are mounted in a direction perpendicular to the lining laying direction: for example, with a horizontal sheathing method, the laths are attached to the wall vertically, and vice versa. Wooden bars are taken as planks of the crate (the wood must have normal humidity and is pre-treated with an antifungal compound). The minimum section of the bars is 20x40 mm.

The location of the bars mounted on the walls is conveniently marked with a chalk cord or marker. With a horizontal crate, the step between adjacent bars is taken within 400-600 mm, and the first and last rows are set in such a way as to ensure convenient fastening of the lining. For the bottom row, another amendment is made for the subsequent installation of the plinth.

Between individual bars it is worth leaving a small gap (5-10 mm) - this will ensure Better conditions for air circulation. All windows and doorways are sheathed with the same bars. If the house is wooden, then the bars can be fixed with galvanized nails; for brick and especially concrete walls dowels are used exclusively.

Similar are the requirements for the step of the crate and the installation of bars in the case of subsequent vertical cladding with clapboard.

We carry out installation

Particular care should be taken to install the first panel of material: its accuracy will determine the quality of all subsequent sheathing. They usually start from one of the corners of the room farthest from the door. The board is set using a level, and it must be perfectly even (if there are roughnesses, they should be removed with a planer).

Installation starts from the far wall

TO wooden wall panels are nailed with decorative nails with a coating that matches the color of the interior solution. If there is no desire to see nail heads every day, it is necessary to use headless nails, which are hammered with a blunt core. Correctly, when the angle of inclination of the nail in relation to the surface of the lining will be approximately 70-80 °.

Many manufacturers, in particular eurolining, supply their products with special clamps. These clips with nails or staples (in the latter case, a construction stapler is used) are attached to the lathing bars, after which the material panels themselves are attached with their help.

Clapboard work is completed with the installation of wooden corner elements - in the corners of the room and at the openings.