Sheathing an old house with siding. How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands? Watch the instructional video. Video: seller's opinion on choosing siding

In this article I want to talk about how to install siding with your own hands. I’ll tell you why the house was covered with siding, and not with other material. I will give examples of possible mistakes during do-it-yourself siding and how to avoid them. As a result, this article can become for people planning to install siding installation instructions from the selection and calculation of siding panels to final installation siding.

Introduction

It has been 15 years since my house was completed. The house is built of timber, inside the walls of the house are sheathed with fiberboard, and the facade of the house is sheathed with clapboard. I live on the east coast of Kamchatka where winter lasts at least 5 months.

During this time, the outer sides of the walls of the house were exposed to frosts, evil cold winds, as well as frequent snowstorms in winter, and frequent rains and fogs in autumn. All these atmospheric phenomena had a negative impact on the condition of the external cladding of the walls of the house.

The lining, the outer wall cladding dried up, warped, cracks formed at the joints, it became noticeably colder in the rooms and there was a clear feeling of dampness. The question arose of replacing the coating of the outer walls and, first of all, the northeastern pediment, which was the first to take all the blows of the changeable Kamchatka weather.

I needed to solve two fundamental questions:

• What material to choose (the same lining, or something else)?
• Should I lay the new layer on top of the old layer of cladding, or should I remove the old one and clad it again?

The answer to the first question was found quickly - the lining will not work. Why? Just by re-sheathing the house with clapboard, I will have to paint it again every year, and still, after 10-15 years, the house sheathing will have to be replaced. The house needs to be sheathed with such material that it lasts a longer period, unlike lining, does not require annual maintenance (painting) and that this material is resistant to precipitation.

Going through various options I decided to choose vinyl siding. Do-it-yourself installation of vinyl siding is quite simple, in addition, the siding itself is quite cheap, durable, does not require any repair and painting during the entire service life. Maintenance of siding is also simple - it is enough to remove dust and dirt adhering to the top, even with a jet of water from a hose. Service life - up to 50 years. Temperature range - from -60 to +60°C.

Siding. Vinyl panels

I chose panels 6 m long (so that there is less waste, since maximum length my pediment is 5.8 m). One such panel has an area of ​​1.37 square meters. m. Not the last role in the choice was played by the price of these panels in our hardware stores - 180 rubles / m2 ($ 5.2).

The range of colors and shades of commercially available vinyl siding is very diverse. I chose the color "Sandstone" as it harmonizes well with the gray slate and white cornices.

Note: the pits are marked in fig. 3

The answer to the second question (how to sheathe a house with siding) - I decided to mount a new layer on top of the old one. Why?

• First, I did not have to do the extra work of dismantling the old skin, which saved me at least one day;
• Second: if you remove the old sheathing, then when sheathing the house with siding, most likely, you would have to align the attached rails when attaching the lathing, so that their surface of the ends, to which the siding panels are attached, would be located in the same plane, and, nailing them onto the old sheathing, this is not necessary - as the walls already have a flat surface.

Siding calculation

After that, it was necessary to calculate the siding and determine the number of purchased panels and trim strips for them. To do this, I carefully measured the pediment and made it detailed drawing in scale 1:25. Excluding the window openings of the house and the veranda, the total area of ​​the pediment was 22 m2. According to the drawing, he accurately determined where and what trimmings from six-meter panels would be installed, so I bought all the materials with a minimum margin for waste. As a result, there is practically no waste left.

An example of calculating the area of ​​​​the pediment:

Calculation of the area of ​​the pediment, I did according to Heron's formula (calculation of the area of ​​a triangle):

S=√p(p-a)(p-b)(p-c),

where the semi-perimeter is calculated by the formula:

p=(a+b+c):2

The scheme for calculating the area of ​​​​the pediment

Now we write the derived data, where

a - 8m, b - 8m, c - 6m

Calculation of the gable semi-perimeter:

p=(8+8+6):2=11m

Having calculated the semi-perimeter of the triangle (pediment), I calculated the area (S) of the pediment:

S= √ 11(11-8)(11-8)(11-6)

S= √495 = 22.25

The gable area is 22.25 sq.m.

Accessories for vinyl siding

In addition to the panels, it was additionally necessary to buy:

• starting strip - 12 pcs. 2.8 m each;
• outer corner - 4 pcs. 2.8 m each;
• J-bars - 16 pcs. 2.8 m each;
• self-tapping screws - 600 pcs.

Note: J-bar as soon as they are not called: "J-channel", "Jay Chanel", "Edge rail", "J-rail", "J-profile", and in stores sometimes "Finish bar", although this name applies to a completely different detail ... Further in the text, we will call it the "J-bar" in the future.

Preparing for the installation of siding with your own hands

I decided to sheathe the house with siding with my own hands, since such work costs us an average of 50% of the cost of materials. But why pay "extra money" when you can do this work yourself.

Before proceeding with the sheathing of the pediment, I had to start installing reliable scaffolding. Working at a height of about 6 m, standing on a ladder, is unrealistic. In addition, due to the lack of assistants, there was simply no one to hold the 6-meter end of the panel on the other side. In the old stocks of building materials, there were two 6-meter beams 150x50 mm and smaller beams with a section of 100x50 mm.

For flooring, I bought 40 mm boards (with the expectation that later I will dissolve them into veins for a new fence). With this work, hitherto unfamiliar to me, I coped quite easily ...

I started installing the siding with my own hands from the bottom of the house. But... I won't get ahead of myself. I will sign all the work in order, step by step, what needs to be done and in what sequence, as required by the installation instructions.

The tool needed to work with siding

Basically, you need the most common tool, which is well known to any summer resident who has ever been involved in construction or carpentry work. Here is a list of what you need to have on hand:

• roulette;
• metal ruler;
• metal joiner's square (at least 30 cm long);
• hacksaw for metal with small teeth;
• hammer;
• screwdriver (or regular screwdriver);
• awl;
• knife-cutter;
• metal scissors;
• twine and chalk;
• level (at least 60 cm long);
• pliers.

Preparing the wall surface for siding

Although not the most difficult, but very important stage, as well as the key to a high-quality and successful installation of siding, is a thorough preparation of the foundation. First of all, you should remove all climbing plants and tree branches in contact with the walls. Remove drainpipes, light fixtures, and other fittings from areas of the house where they may interfere with panel installation.

If do-it-yourself siding of the house with siding will be carried out according to the old existing siding from the lining, as I did, then you must first carefully examine and assess the condition of the old siding (if any) and the wooden elements of the wall structure. Lagging boards and panels must be nailed tightly.

Note: it is better to replace rotten boards, since the process that has begun under the skin will most likely not stop. It would be nice to additionally treat the sections of the walls that are problematic in this regard with an antiseptic.

Elements of the house that must be dismantled before finishing the house with siding

1 - prichelina, 2 - platbands, 3 - shutters, 4 - outer corner, 5 - wind boards, 6 - plank (transition) between the foundation and the walls of the house, 7 - external window sill.

You will have to remove all the platbands, if any - shutters, protruding window sills, as well as drainage and decorative elements around windows and doors.

When the listed parts are removed, using a long rail, plumb line or level, you can easily control how even the walls of your house are.

Vinyl siding panels have a thickness of no more than 1.1-1.2 mm and are not capable of carrying any significant load. Therefore, when they are mounted on a curved surface, the slightest unevenness will also appear on the outer side of the skin.

Note: at this stage, it turned out that the window openings were made by me once, to put it mildly, not strictly according to the level. Or maybe the foundation has sunk.

In order to install the windows exactly in the window openings, I had to remove the glass from the windows, trim the frames and window blocks to fit them evenly into window openings.

Window block installation scheme

1 - wooden lining (slats), 2 - window frame, 3 - plumb, 4 - level

When aligning the window blocks, I placed pre-prepared slats under one of the sides, the length of which was equal to the width of the window block. The horizontal installation of window blocks was checked by level, and the vertical position with a plumb line.

Fragment of a wooden window frame

I also replaced the dowels in the joints of the window frame bars and reinforced them with metal corners.

After that, the window frames and blocks were primed and painted. After the paint was completely dry, I inserted the glass, and at the same time replaced the cracked glass.

You can get more detailed information about installing windows from the article and.

Sheathing and wall insulation

For new buildings made of wood, battens are usually not required. Siding can be mounted on any wooden walls, as well as on walls sheathed with chipboard, fiberboard, plywood and other similar materials. However, the walls of old buildings most often have noticeable irregularities.

On such walls it is necessary to install a crate of boards or slats. Do-it-yourself siding crate is made from wooden slats section 50x80 mm. Reiki attached to the walls with nails 100 mm long.

Timber batten siding

For horizontally oriented siding panels, the laths of the battens must be nailed (with a side of 50 mm) vertically at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. They should also be installed around windows, doors and other openings or openings, at all corners, along the bottom and top of the panel mounting area.

Note: simultaneously with the installation of the crate, the wall can be additionally covered with insulation. To do this, I filled the space between the slats with 50 mm thick foam boards. But you can use not only polystyrene for wall insulation, there are many other types of insulation that everyone chooses at their discretion.

More detailed information about the insulation of the walls of the house can be found in the article.

All instructions recommend mounting the siding on galvanized nails. Quote:“Nails must be aluminum or galvanized with a head 0.9-1 cm in diameter. The stem of the nail must be 3 mm in diameter and long enough to penetrate the base to a depth of at least 2 cm.”

On reflection, I decided that it is more convenient to fasten the panels with screws - self-tapping screws. You can screw in a screw with a screwdriver (you can also just use a Phillips screwdriver), using a magnetic nozzle, you can use one hand, but to nail a nail, you need both. This was the decisive factor in favor of self-tapping screws.

Setting the starting strip

The installation scheme of the starting strip for the siding of a private house

I started installing the siding by installing the starting strip:

• first found the lowest point of the old skin;
• after using chalk and a building level (you can use twine and chalk), I applied a marking line 40 mm above the level of the old sheathing;
• set the starting bar so that its upper edge was located along the marking line, and attached it to the house - this work of installing the starting bars was done around the entire perimeter of the house.

Note: since we are talking about installing siding parts, we need to list the basic rules for its fastening (this applies to panels and fittings).

• Vinyl siding is nailed so as not to interfere with its possible thermal expansion and contraction. To do this, you must always leave a gap of 5-6 mm between the end edge of the siding panel and J-planks, corners or other fittings. When installing panels in cold weather (up to -10 degrees), the thermal gap should be increased to 9-10 mm.

Installation options (nailing) of vinyl siding

• Don't fasten the siding too tightly to the batten or wall! Do not hammer nails to the end! Leave a gap of approximately 1-1.5 mm between the head of the nail (or screw) and the vinyl panel. This is necessary for free expansion-compression and to prevent warping of the skin.

Gap options between a nail (or screw) head and a vinyl panel

• Nails (screws) must be hammered into the middle of the oblong mounting hole, and not from the edge - this can subsequently lead to panel breakage. Nails are hammered in with a step of 30-40 cm. After nailing all the nails, the panels should move freely in one direction and the other horizontally within the width of the mounting holes.

Attention! Hammer nails should be strictly at right angles! Even a single bent nail, interfering with the free movement of the panel, can cause local "bloating" of the siding.

• The panel to be installed must first be connected to the bottom panel (or to the starting strip) and pushed up until the “lock” snaps into place. After that, the panel can be nailed. At the same time, it must not be pulled or strongly pressed, it must hang on the attachment points without tension, while maintaining its natural shape. Too much tension can cause improper connection with other panels and parts. Both excessively tight fastening and dangling panels should be avoided.

• When installing platbands, shutters, electrical wiring and other parts, holes in the siding must be drilled 5 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners used. This will allow the panels to expand or contract freely with temperature fluctuations.

Installation of external corners

The outer corner is a detail that closes the end edges of the siding panels at the corners of the house and allows you to match the wall sheathing located in two mutually perpendicular planes.

The outer corner of the siding panel on the corner of the house

I set the outer corner so that at the top it did not reach the cornice or J-rail by 6 mm, and at the bottom its end protruded 8 mm below the level of the ledges of the starting strip.

Note: nails must be driven in the center of the existing mounting holes, leaving the part to expand - contract with temperature fluctuations. The distance between adjacent nails is from 20 to 40 cm.

Corner piece for fastening siding

Sometimes you need to close the upper or lower end of the outer corner installed on the wall. The covers needed for this can be made from pieces of J-strips with a length equal to twice the width of the outer corner.

Cover from a piece of J-Strip for the outer corner of the siding

The blanks prepared in this way, I bent and nailed to the wall, and then inserted the outer corners into them.

Installing J-Strips Around Window and Door Openings

J-Strip Installation Diagram around Window or Door Openings

To connect the wall cladding with siding panels to the window and door openings, around the latter, I installed J-strips. The most difficult thing here is to correctly form the corner joints of the vertical and horizontal slats. You can do this in the following way:

Joints of vertical and horizontal J-bars

First, in the bottom of the horizontal J-bar, installed above the window opening, I cut out an eyelet 2 cm long and folded it down. I did the same on the other side of this bar. Then the front bent part of the J-bar was cut at an angle of 45 °.

Connecting the corners of the J-Strap frame around a door or window opening

At the side J-bar of the frame in the bottom, I made a rectangular cutout 2 cm deep and connected the top and side bars. In the same way, I connected all the other corners of the frame.

Installation of siding panels

I installed the siding panels in rows from bottom to top. First, I wound the lower edge of the first panel over the ledge of the starting strip, and then nailed the upper edge to the wall. The installation of the next row began only when the installation of the previous one was completely completed.

All panels must stand freely, between their end edges and vertical parts ( outside corners and J-straps) it is necessary to leave gaps of at least 5-6 mm.

Docking panels with molding

If the dimensions of the panels installed horizontally are less than the width of the wall of the house, then they have to be increased in length.

Docking H-molding (profile)

I did this with the help of a special docking H-molding (profile), which I installed in the right place on the wall strictly parallel to one of the nearest corners of the house or some other vertical structure on the wall.

Docking siding panels "overlap"

Another way of joining panels is also allowed when they are extended in length - overlapping. In this case, each next panel should overlap the previous one in length by 2.5-3 cm, and the joints should be spaced apart.

When installing short panels in narrow openings, such as between windows, I left the vertical J-strips unnailed on top so that when the panel was inserted, they could be slightly bent. I nailed these slats when the short panel was in place and secured.

On the one hand, the siding panels have a number of holes for fastening to the wall with nails and a protrusion of the locking part, which ensures the connection of the panels to each other. On the other hand, a longitudinal edge bent inward, this bend is the counterpart of the lock. The panels are overlapped - first, the locking part of the top panel is engaged with the protrusion on the bottom, and then the top panel is attached to the base (crate) with nails or self-tapping screws.

Scheme of installation of overlapping siding panels

Conclusion

I spent about 22,500 rubles - $ 650 on decorating the house with siding (the amount is indicated without taking into account the cost of insulation).

Note: the surface area of ​​the walls and pediment sheathed with siding was 112 sq. m.

Preparatory work - minor repairs of the old sheathing, installation of lathing and wall insulation, took me about 4 days, installation of siding panels - 3 days. In total, I spent 7 days to complete the work of cladding the house with siding and wall insulation.

What happened? Let's look at the photo:

Photo of a house with old cladding

• became

Photo of a house with new vinyl siding as decoration

Also, siding and the installation of an additional layer of insulation brought me another positive moment:

• before finishing the house, per month at an average temperature in winter - 10 degrees, I burned about 480 cubic meters. m of gas, then after finishing the walls of the house with siding and their insulation, gas consumption decreased to 380-390 cubic meters. m

• so is siding reliable protection walls of the house from the effects of precipitation, which helps to increase the service life wooden structure Houses.

Attention! This article shows prices as of 2009.

The wooden house is distinguished by many positive qualities, the most important of which is environmental safety. However, there are a number of unfavorable factors that cause the development of biological lesions in natural wood. Mold, fungus and rot attack wood when exposed to atmospheric precipitation. Reduce the risk of breakage wooden house from rot and fungus, as well as to arrange reliable insulation of the building from the outside, siding will help. This article will help you learn how to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands. Video and photos on the device of siding sheathing - to help the master.

Why sheathe a wooden house with siding?

houses from natural wood zealous owners finish with siding for the following reasons:

Types of siding for finishing wooden buildings

For the decoration of wooden buildings, it is customary to use classic types of siding: plastic or metal, the plinth belt can be trimmed with sheathing stylized as a stone. There are varieties of sheathing panels made of precious woods and natural stone.

All types of siding are characterized by resistance to moisture, ultraviolet radiation, low temperatures. Vinyl and metal cladding material has significant strength, durability, attractive design, easy to assemble without the use of unique tools. With little experience, even an unskilled consumer can install siding. Finishing plates are environmentally friendly and have high fire-fighting qualities.

The choice of cladding material depends on the taste and requests of the owner of the building, as well as on the design parameters of the building, the operating conditions of the building, the condition of the main load-bearing structures. Fundamentality and solidity are given to the exterior of the house by stone and wooden surfaces. Of course, such siding is notable for its high cost, but the lined surfaces do not need annual finishing, they can be used without investing in repairs for many years. However, the stone has a significant weight, so it is impossible to veneer light and dilapidated buildings with such siding, the strengthening of which is not provided for when performing finishing work.

The most common option is to use a plastic facing material. plastic siding Perfectly is suitable for facing of objects of low-rise and multystoried construction. Polyvinyl chloride strips have a locking system, which is fixed in one click during assembly. The edge has a perforated edge for fastening with special fasteners. A high degree of wear resistance, strength, durability, resistance to moisture and ultraviolet radiation are the criteria for choosing plastic siding for facing the facade of any building.

metal siding more durable than vinyl counterparts. Suitable for cladding any surfaces, including industrial facilities. The industry produces steel and galvanized facing material, as well as aluminum siding. Strips of metal cladding are not subject to destruction from moisture, ultraviolet rays and minor mechanical stress.

Material resources and tools for facing works

For high-quality performance of work on the exterior cladding of a building, it is required to use special tools:

• Bulgarian;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• measuring instruments;
• hammer;

• scissors for cutting metal;
• screwdrivers;
• fasteners.

When doing work on your own, it is easy to purchase all the necessary fixtures in any building materials supermarket.

Advice! It is best to purchase fasteners for mounting cladding panels made of galvanized steel or aluminum. Such hardware is characterized by high strength, reliability, does not collapse from rust.

Materials required for facade cladding:

• siding;
• external and internal corners;
• start and finish bars;
• slats for fastening window openings;
• J and H profiles.

Calculation of the need for external corners: measure the length of all external corners of the building and divide by 3 (manufacturers produce external corners 3 m long).

Advice! It is necessary to provide for the priority use of only solid corners, avoiding mounting short sections in the outer corners.

To calculate the internal corners, it is required to measure the internal corners of the building, divide the result by 3. Calculation of the need for starting strips: perform preliminary measurements of the length of the house, excluding the sum of the lengths of the openings. Starting strips are produced with a length of 3.8 m. The J-profile is used when installing siding at the junction of adjoining buildings. The siding panels are attached to each other using an H-profile. The space near the windows is reinforced with special strips for mounting near the windows. Finishing strips help to strengthen the siding at the connection with the roof.

Secrets of installation of facing panels

Facing panels are laid on a pre-laid crate made of wood or metal. When laying the siding on the crate, it is worth leaving a gap of about 2 mm. With fluctuations in temperature, the material is subject to compression or expansion, so sufficient clearance must be provided in advance. When overlapping panels, the gap must be at least 6 mm.

Requirements for self-tapping screws: short, galvanized fasteners with a rounded head and no drill at the end of the screw part. It is possible to use nails on roofing felt.

Advice! Cutting material should be done as needed.

Preparatory work for the installation of cladding should first be performed on wall surfaces. Previously, the walls must be cleaned of dirt and dust, old facing materials. Cleaned surfaces are treated with a deep penetration primer with antiseptic properties.

Advice! Before laying the siding from the surface of the walls, mold spots and foci of fungal infections should be removed.

The next stage of preparatory work is the installation of a waterproofing layer under the crate. The waterproofing is fixed directly to the wall of the building, which is necessary for the presence of ventilation gaps.

The installation of the crate is made of metal or wooden parts. Metal or wooden (50 x 80 mm) strips are mounted on the walls of the building with a step of 30 - 40 mm. wooden details nailed to the walls with nails up to 100 mm long. For reliable fastening of the cladding, vertical and horizontal frames are mounted.

Advice! On the finished crate, you can begin the installation of cladding panels, while the flooring should start from the corner of the building.

The facade of a wooden house can be insulated, these works are combined with cladding. Used for wall insulation mineral wool, mats from basalt fiber, polyfoam, penoplex. Insulation is placed in the space between the profiles, while a gap between the siding panels and insulating mats of 1-3 cm should be provided. A layer of insulation is laid on the outer surface waterproofing material- isospan.

You can get acquainted with the intricacies of the cladding of a wooden house by watching the video for this article, which shows in detail the basic methods of laying facade slabs, the device of the crate and the technology of laying and fastening the insulating material.

Siding technology: video

Finishing the siding of a wooden house: photo

Sheathing siding refers to dry types exterior finish and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not exert a significant load on the foundation, so this cladding is also used on old wooden houses.

The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, simple care, excellent protective properties and a wide choice of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can give a modern look even to an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.

Tools and materials

Before sheathing a house with siding, you should check the availability of the following tools:

• or saw with fine teeth, metal scissors,
• screwdriver and screwdriver
• hammer,
• tape measure, square and level (laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
• a stepladder, the height of which will be enough to reach the roof of the house.

Siding manufacturers offer a complete set of elements and panels for house cladding, even of complex configurations. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of ​​​​the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate required amount certain parts, a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.

Knowing some points will help to control or verify the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:

• Outer corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using whole elements for each outer corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when docking. Corners are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
• Internal angles are calculated according to the same principle. If the roof eaves will be trimmed with siding, they are also used in the areas of its connection with the wall. internal corners. In cases where the eaves were finished earlier or will not be done at all, a finishing strip is used.
• To finish the cornice, elements such as spotlights and a wind board are used.
• The required length of the starting bar is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
• At the connection sites of extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
• The perimeter of the windows is sheathed with a window strip, it must be taken with a margin so that the docking points are not visible. Also, to frame windows, ebbs are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
• A drain strip or ebbs are installed around the perimeter of the basement if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
• If the length of the wall of the house is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of siding panels - the connection is made using an H-profile. It is necessary to think over the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building are preserved.
• The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated by the formula: "((the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls of the house - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors) / panel area) * 1.10". A margin of 10% is needed for trimming and scrap costs.
• For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. about 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a margin. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, from which there will definitely not be rusty smudges in a few years.

Preparatory work

Before siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Close up or mounting foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics, foam concrete walls can be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Lathing installation

First of all, you need to mount the crate from metal profile or wooden slats, since it is absolutely impossible to mount the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding both for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD-profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use slats 60 * 40 mm with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.

Using a tape measure and a level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. In the future, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.

Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to achieve their snug fit to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where the siding will have an additional load, such as street lamps, as well as around corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. Vertical rails should not be connected to anything so that there are no obstructions to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to mold.

Waterproofing and insulation

For wooden, aerated concrete walls, installation is mandatory, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, it is worth giving preference to a moisture-windproof membrane. If insulation is not being done, then the film is fixed directly on the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for the ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then the crate is re-built to provide a gap for ventilation.

Fastening guide elements

Installation begins with the installation of a drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. This is a rigid structure and is easier to fix evenly than a flexible starting bar. Then the turn of the corner profiles. They must be firmly fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.

If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be overlapped on the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. After that, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached on top of the drainage. It should be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.

Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer lower edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be cut at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped by laying the top planks on the side ones.

At vertical installation H-profiles in predetermined places, a level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the eaves and plinth so that the planks do not bend when expanding. Under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends, the finishing bar is mounted.

Panel installation

When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below, at the top the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws in the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. Do not pull the panel up and fix it rigidly, it should go a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished with a finishing bar.

What should be taken into account?

Rule number 1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be rigidly fixed. The material from which they are made shrinks when cold and expands when heated, fluctuations in length can reach 1%. This is what caused the elongated shape of the mounting holes. Fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the cap. If this rule is violated, the siding can simply burst with strong heat.

Rule number 2. There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the slats and the guides (less when installed in hot weather) so that the siding does not buckle when expanded. When sheathing a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.

Rule number 3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at temperatures below -10 degrees, the elements can crack when cut, so you should be careful and use a grinder.

With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.

It is necessary to choose a material that will provide a high degree of protection of the walls from negative impact environment and will be able to maintain decorative properties throughout the entire period of operation. That is why many people choose siding for finishing not only new buildings, but also for restoring erected buildings and objects. A simple “constructor” type assembly technology will allow you to quickly and cost-effectively install siding with your own hands - instructions for dummies describe in detail all stages of work.

The popularity of siding is difficult to overestimate due to its versatility, affordability and aesthetics.

Finishing with siding panels of buildings, in comparison with other materials, has the following advantages:

• High resistance to negative external factors: precipitation, sudden changes in temperature, certain chemical compounds and ultraviolet radiation. The material retains its strength and decorative properties throughout the entire period of operation declared by the manufacturer.

• The design of the sheathing and lathing has a minimum weight, which allows finishing objects with shallow foundations without additional strengthening of the supporting structure.
• No need to level the facade walls due to installation on the crate. This significantly reduces the time of work, and also allows you to lay heat and waterproofing layers in the space between the wall and the siding.
• Undemanding cladding for care or any maintenance.
• High level of fire safety and resistance to minor mechanical stress.
• The presence of a wide range of decorative colors will allow you to choose the necessary one without any problems and make a unique home design without spending money on purchasing and painting in desired color. Moreover, unique textured images with imitation of natural materials are also available, which are distinguished by a clear and rich pattern.
• A simple installation technology available for mastering by people who have not previously encountered construction works.

Types of additional components

In order to simplify the installation of facade cladding, many additional components are produced to ensure a tight fit to various elements of the house, mounting surfaces of complex shapes, as well as reliable engagement with the main wall. The components are designed to ensure the rigidity and stability of the structure, as well as prevent the formation of moisture on the inside material.

Important information! The material of the components must match the siding in order to ensure uniform thermal characteristics and prevent deformations due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients. Therefore, it is recommended to use only original additional and fasteners.

List of additional accessories:

• The start and finish strips help avoid distortions and other installation errors, as well as improve the decorative properties of the finish.
• corner elements. Designed to decorate the corners of the building and hide the crate. Protects against dust and moisture inner surface panels.
• Window and door frames are intended for finishing adjunctions of the corresponding apertures. J-profiles can also be used for these purposes, but they have worse aesthetic properties.
• Window and door profiles are used for finishing and protection against external environment slopes. Due to their use, the slopes look natural and aesthetically pleasing.
• J profile. It is used for fastening of ordered panels in the side part. It has versatility, therefore it is also used instead of platbands, finishing and corner profiles, even though there are specialized elements.
• J-bevel. A special element designed to be installed as a cornice. It is a specialized replacement for the J-profile in roof connection installations.
• Low tide. Used to remove moisture from the roof, as well as the design of window and doorways.
• Ceiling spotlights. Designed for finishing ceilings of open structures: terraces, summer kitchens, etc. They can be made solid or perforated. They perform not only decorative functions, but also provide ventilation of the space between the wall and the siding along the crate, and also protect internal structures from pests.
• Moldings. Used to connect horizontal and vertical planes panels.
• H-profile. It is used for building panels along the length.

Siding installation price per m 2 for work

Sheathing with siding of objects with the involvement of professional teams of builders will be performed with high quality and in the shortest possible time. At the same time, it is not necessary to order the execution of a full range of works, but only individual services are sufficient.

The cost of the work will depend on the following factors:

• The number of window and door openings, the sheathing of which requires a significant waste of time and the use of special additional elements.
• Wall areas.
• The complexity of the work. IN this concept includes the presence of walls with complex plane transitions, the need to install insulating layers, the type of wall material and other factors.
• The type of material selected.

In each case, the miscalculation will be performed by a specialist of the selected company. The table below shows the prices for the installation of siding, the price per m 2 for work.

Approximate cost of carrying out the main and auxiliary works during the installation of siding for Moscow

Facade works	Unit rev.	price, rub.
Installing vinyl siding on walls	m2	250
Installing vinyl siding on a roof	m2	300
Fiber cement siding installation	m2	680
Installation of a hydro-vapor barrier film	m2	60
Installation wooden crate on wood	m2	100
Installation of wooden crates on brick or concrete	m2	200
Installation of insulation 50 mm	m2	90
Installation of insulation 100 mm	m2	170
Fire-bio processing of timber	running meters	14
Fire-bio wood surface treatment	m2	80
Fire-bio processing boards	running meters	19
Installation of metal tides	running meters	100
Installation of ventilation grilles	PC.	140

Preparatory work

Before carrying out installation work on the cladding of the facade, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. They include the following steps: choosing the type of panels and lathing, calculating materials and additional elements, as well as determining the number of heat and waterproofing layers.

Panel type selection

The choice of material for sheathing largely determines the service life of the entire structure, strength and performance characteristics. Currently, the choice is limited to the following options:

• Wood. Differs in the high level of thermal insulation, environmental friendliness and excellent decorative qualities. Its cost is minimal compared to other types of siding. However, it has a short service life (up to 8 years) and requires periodic maintenance (treatment with antiseptics and painting).

• Metal. It has strength and durability, resistance to mold, fungi and pests, and is also able to withstand significant temperature changes. It is very sensitive to damage, since even a small scratch on the protective layer can lead to the onset of corrosion processes.

• Vinyl. It is the most profitable option, as it is devoid of all the disadvantages of wood and metal siding. It has a minimum weight, is resistant to any precipitation, environmentally friendly, has a maximum service life of up to 50 years. It features a wide range of colors. With such advantages, the cost of this material is relatively low, so it is recommended to choose it by experts. Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation video will allow you to appreciate all the advantages of this material.

Calculation of the amount of materials

The amount of material can be calculated quite simply if you have a building project on hand. Otherwise, you will have to measure the length and width of each of the walls, as well as window and door openings. Based on the data obtained, a sketch or drawing should be made. After that, the amount of material that will be used to create the crate is determined, taking into account the uniform arrangement of vertical or horizontal guides with an interval of 40-50 cm and fasteners along the guides with the same interval.

Helpful information! You can use the building project for calculations only if it was erected no later than 2-3 years. It is connected with possible appearance defects on the walls (for example, cracks caused by subsidence of the foundation), which, after elimination, can cause the walls to widen by several centimeters. When installing the facade cladding of a building, this is critical in that you have to find a way out of the situation already during the installation process.

After calculating the amount of materials for the crate, you need to calculate the number of panels. To do this is quite simple by dividing the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls, minus the area of ​​the openings, into the dimensions of one panel. It is recommended to add a margin of approximately 10-15% to the obtained value, which will take into account possible damage during delivery or installation.

Calculator for calculating the quantity and cost of siding for a house

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List of required tools

For installation work you will need the following tools:

Preparing walls for installation

First you need to dismantle the roofing, window and door parts that protrude beyond the plane of the wall: skirting boards, ebbs, drainage pipes with fasteners from the roof, etc. This will allow you to get unhindered access to the walls. If any finishing layers have been installed or applied, they are also recommended to be cleaned to the main wall material.

A thorough inspection of the strength and reliability of the supporting structures will ensure that there are no problems during the operation of the siding that are associated with its complete or partial dismantling. If cracks, irregularities or other defects are found, they will need to be eliminated.

Do-it-yourself siding installation - instructions for dummies

After the successful completion of the preparatory work, it is necessary to plan the installation work. To do this, you need to place building materials near the object in order to have easy access to them. The stages of installation work are as follows:

• Installing the crate.
• Profile mounting
• Installation of additional elements.
• Paneling.

Lathing installation

Sheathing panels are recommended to be installed horizontally, since in this arrangement it is quite easy to build up the sheathing. Therefore, the guide battens must be vertical. Of course, a vertical cladding method is also allowed, but in this case, the appearance of the building will have an unaesthetic appearance due to the visual effect of narrowing the walls.

Installation of the crate for siding can be carried out on nails, dowels or self-tapping screws, depending on the material of the walls. First, the wall is marked with chalk or a marker, in accordance with the drawing made during the calculations. When mounting on dowels, we pre-drill holes in the wall.

We install rails from one of the corners of the building. First, we fix the upper part, then align the position vertically with a plumb line. After finally fixing the guide. Then, along the lower level of the fixed rail, we stretch the rope in a strictly horizontal position to simplify the alignment of all subsequent rails.

The subsequent rails are installed according to the markup with control of their position.

Important information! All guide battens on each wall must be located in the same plane. Any distortions, even minimal ones of more than 2-3 mm, are unacceptable, since these defects will appear on the siding in the form of a deterioration in the aesthetics of the view or the impossibility of fixing the planks properly.

If it is required to install a hydro- and heat-insulating layer, then this should be done on top of the installed crate. In this case, the waterproofing is laid on top of the walls and battens, then insulation mats are tightly inserted into the gap between the guides and, if necessary, covered with a second layer of waterproofing. If expanded polystyrene or polystyrene is used as a heater, then you can save on waterproofing, but pay special attention to joints and junctions so that there are no gaps. Do-it-yourself siding installation instructions for dummies must be taken into account before installing the facade material.

Related article:

Installing profiles

We install J-profiles on top of the crate, on which the cladding panels will be attached. Since all structural elements were strictly aligned with a stretched horizontal rope, there will be no problems with mounting the profiles.

We start the installation from the bottom of the structure. We take the starting profile and fix it at a lathing height of 5 cm, having previously screwed two self-tapping screws at this height on both sides of the wall as a guide. At the same time, we provide enough space for the installation of corner profiles. You can cut off the excess part immediately after fixing or before installation. Self-tapping screws or nails should be placed approximately in the middle of a special hole designed to secure the profile.

Helpful information! An interval of 8-10 mm must be observed between horizontal and angular profiles, which will take into account the thermal expansion of the metal. You can not indent if you correctly cut the corner profile in the right places, and then cover the cut lines with a protective layer.

After fixing the starting profiles, we proceed to the installation of external corners. First, we mark the soffits to determine the edges of the elements, and then install the corner profile with a gap of 3 mm to the soffit or roof. Fastening is carried out in the same way as for the starting bar. Be sure to center the profile until the moment of tightening. Internal corner profiles are mounted similarly to external ones.

In some cases, when the height of buildings is from one floor along the length, the angles can be more than 3 m and it becomes necessary to build up the profile. In such situations, it is necessary to cut each subsequent profile so that it can be inserted into the previous one. To do this, cut off the side parts for fastening the siding with metal scissors, leaving only the front corner part. The cutting length must be at least 25 mm. Additionally, you will need to leave a gap between the two elements of approximately 9 mm.

Installation of additional elements for window openings

Windows in various types of buildings can be installed in Various types openings, on which the installation method and the use of additional elements depend. Therefore, the installation of near-window siding strips has the following features:

• With opening slopes larger than 19 cm, it is necessary to fix the outer corners along the perimeter and mount facing strips on them. Slopes outside are decorated with standard elements. In some cases, they need to be trimmed a little to size. We insert the cladding panel into the corner profile and interlock connection the starting strip, and then we fix it to the crate.

• If the slope size is from 5 to 19 cm, then for the installation of siding in the upper and lower parts, euro-planks with a standard length of 220 mm are used, which are cut off in place. In order to save money, the use of J-profiles and plastic linings is allowed. Mounting is similar to the first option.
• There are no slopes, and the window is installed flush with the wall, or its size is up to 5 cm. In this case, suitable platbands with a width of 62 mm are mounted. An alternative may be J-profiles, which are installed and fastened in the same way as described above. To accurately connect the profiles, it is necessary to make small cuts on each side, bend down, settle the excess parts of the material and join.

• Arched or swept-shaped openings are sheathed with siding in the same way as walls on J-profiles, however, they are carefully folded under the shape of the opening.

siding

The first plank is usually installed on the side of the building that is least visible from the street and courtyard. This is necessary for beginners to get the hang of a little to properly fasten the planks. Installation is carried out in the starting bar in a special clamp with fixation on self-tapping screws at the points of contact with the batten guides.

It is important to perform the correct engagement in order to avoid distortions and loss of structural strength. Be sure to observe technological indents of 6-9 mm. When tightening the screws, it is strictly forbidden to deform the panels, as they will then become unusable.

We build up the subsequent planks with an overlap with engagement to the bottom row on special locks. Pre-locks and mounting frames must be shortened. Every third row must be checked for the absence of distortions. When approaching the opening, cut off the excess part of the plank.

Windows are sheathed with siding only after the installation of low tide. To do this, the opening is measured and the elements are cut to size with a bend at the fixing point at a right angle and from the drain side. After that, the ebb is attached to the frame using an adhesive or liquid nails to achieve high tightness and contact density.

From the sides window opening set the J-profile. Measure height window frame, and then cut the profile to size. The lower parts are slightly bent for a tight fit with the tide. A finishing bar is attached to the bottom profile along the width of the opening, and a starting bar is attached to the top one.

For sheathing doorways, they proceed in the same way as in the case of a window - they install J-profiles and corner additional elements, if there are slopes. More accurately, do-it-yourself siding installation is described by instructions in video format.

When approaching the junction of the roof at a distance of one or two strips, it is necessary to stop the sheathing and think over the competent implementation of the docking. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the lock of the penultimate row to the finish bar. From the value obtained, it is necessary to subtract 10-20 mm per indent. Then you should mark the whole panel and cut off the upper locking connection from it. In the upper part we make hooks (cuts with bending towards the front part) with a step of 200 mm. We insert the finished bar into the penultimate panel with snapping into the lock.

For sheathing the pediment, we install a corner inner element at the junction with the wall and an outer one at the end of the roof or a J-profile. Sheathing is done in the same way as for walls.

Do-it-yourself siding installation, according to the instructions for dummies, requires compliance with the following rules and recommendations:

• When installing metal or vinyl panels, be sure to observe the gap with the fasteners, as they can expand as a result of thermal fluctuations.
• When attaching vinyl panels, be sure to use only special holes and in no case do them yourself.
• The lock connections must be tight, but not overtightened with the use of significant forces.
• When attaching profiles to nails, it is recommended to leave a gap of 1 mm between them and the head.
• It is highly not recommended to seal the overlaps of the skin with sealants, as this can cause undesirable deformations due to differences in thermal expansion coefficients, as well as make it difficult to dismantle if it is necessary to examine the condition of the wall.
• All fasteners must be located exactly in the center of the holes.
• Sheathing is performed from the bottom-up or left-to-right.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself siding installation is described in detail - an instruction for dummies with tips and tricks. It is told how to properly carry out preparatory work and avoid many problems during installation. Particular attention was paid to the lining of openings and the connection to the roof. Good luck with the repair!

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Wood is a wonderful, proven building material for thousands of years. But at the same time, we have to admit that, in comparison with other building materials, wood is characterized by the least resistance to the negative effects of the external environment, which adversely affects not only its appearance, but also its working qualities. In this regard, it is highly desirable to provide for wooden enclosing structures effective protection and for this purpose, siding is most often used today. Next, we'll talk about how to choose it and how to do the wall cladding of a wooden house with your own hands.

Before finishing

When planning to decorate a house made of wood with siding, some features of such buildings should be taken into account:

1. If the house is built from logs or solid timber that has not been processed in drying chambers, it will shrink for a long time. This means that the geometry of the structure will change in some way. To the naked eye, the shrinkage will be imperceptible, but if the finish is fixed on the walls, it will certainly deform and in some places may even collapse. Shrinkage is also taken into account when erecting a roof: the rafters are not fixed rigidly, but according to a sliding pattern.
2. Depending on the design, wooden walls can have vapor permeability from 0.06 (across the fibers) to 0.32 mg/m*h*Pa (along the fibers). Siding, even vinyl, even metal, has zero vapor permeability. If we fasten the cladding panels close to the wall, then the steam that has penetrated into it from the inside, having no way out, will turn into condensate on the outer surface (under the siding).

Moisture is dangerous for anyone building material, as it increases the thermal conductivity of the structure and, when frozen, creates gradually increasing cracks in it. And in the case of wood, it also leads to decay.

Therefore, it is very important to ensure effective steam removal: the siding is mounted so that between it and wooden wall there was a blown (builders say - ventilated) gap.

There is no need for a ventilated gap device only if the wall from the inside is covered with a vapor barrier film or finished with some absolutely vapor-tight material, for example, pasted over with vinyl wallpaper. But this solution has a drawback: to remove excess moisture, it is necessary to increase the ventilation capacity, which leads to an increase in heat loss and, accordingly, heating costs.

Houses from glued laminated timber, as well as those built using frame technology, shrinkage is unusual: all the wooden elements from which they are built are thoroughly dried before starting construction work.

Material selection

Siding today is available in three varieties:

• fiber cement (second name - cement fiber);
• metal;
• polyvinyl chloride (for short called vinyl or simply plastic).

The most popular is vinyl siding - it accounts for 70% of all sales.

This is due to a number of advantages of this material:

1. Low cost.
2. Low weight, which eliminates the need to strengthen the supporting structures and the foundation, and delivery and installation are extremely simplified.
3. Widest choice of colors and textures. PVC plastic, like any other, can easily be given any shape, which manufacturers successfully use: siding is produced that imitates wood, brickwork, straw and other materials.
4. Resistant to all weather conditions.
5. Sufficient mechanical strength.

When choosing vinyl siding, consider the following:

1. Wood-imitating panels are the cheapest. They are also the most in demand - they account for approximately 80% of consumer demand. Siding with a more complex texture may cost more.
2. You should not buy cheap siding from a little-known manufacturer out of a desire to save money. Some buyers think that there is not much difference, they say, siding is just a piece of plastic. In fact, a lot depends on compliance with the technology: low-quality siding does not burn out evenly, but in spots. In addition, the material itself is less resistant to ultraviolet radiation, which causes the destruction of polymers.

Pastel-colored siding is considered the most preferred. Compared to brightly colored panels, it has the following advantages:

• does not fade so quickly and less noticeably in the sun;
• less susceptible to thermal expansion;
• has a lower cost.

Among the producers of vinyl plastic, Russian companies Alta-Profil, Docke, FineBer, Grand Line, Nordside, Belarusian Atlantic, U-Plast, Vox, Polish Royal, Canadian Vytec, Mitten and American Elixir, Variform.

Equipment

Here are the parts included in the cladding kit:

1. Narrow long panels are the main element from which the cladding is assembled.
2. The corner is external, usually has a length of 3 m.
3. The inner corner has the same length.
4. The starting bar, in the ledge of which the lowest cladding panel is laid. It is installed above the plinth and above the window / door openings. Usually has a length of 3.8 m.
5. Plank with a J-shaped section. This detail closes the ends of the panels if the cladding is open. For example, if the siding is not mounted around the entire perimeter, or an extension adjoins the house, which it was decided to leave without finishing. In addition, the J-plank is used as a frame for the finishing of gables, and if desired, it can also be used as a finishing strip.
6. Planks with T-shaped and H-shaped sections. They are used to design joints between siding panels - mainly when they are built up in length. The length of one piece is 3 m.
7. Planks near the windows. They are used in cases where windows and doors are recessed into the wall. Length - 3 m.
8. Platbands. They are used for finishing openings, the filling of which - a window or a door - is in the plane of the outer surface of the wall.
9. Window drains. Before buying, you should make sure that you have not yet installed them: these parts are usually supplied with metal-plastic windows.
10. Drain plank. Additional accessory designed for installation above the window.
11. Wind board.

In addition to the above, you will need spotlights - perforated panels, with which the space under the cornice overhang is hemmed. Thanks to the perforation, the ventilated gap under the roof is blown through.

Calculation of the number of siding elements

Siding for finishing a wooden house is best purchased at a time. If later some parts have to be bought in addition, they may not match the color of the main set, since two batches of even the same color usually differ somewhat in shade. And the additional time and money spent on transporting the missing elements is unlikely to please the homeowner. Based on this, it is very important to calculate the required number of all parts with sufficient accuracy before buying.

Number of panels

Determined by the formula: N \u003d (Sst - Sok - Sdv + Sfr) / Spanels,

Sst - wall area;

Sok - total area window openings;

Sdv - the total area of ​​external doorways;

Sfr - the total area of ​​​​all gables;

Spaneli - useful (!) area of ​​one siding panel.

If the panels in a row are joined end-to-end, then the useful area should be taken equal to the actual one. This value is indicated on the packaging and in most cases is 0.85 m 2. If the panels are supposed to be installed with an overlap, then when calculating the S-panel, the overlap must be subtracted from the actual area.

Number of outer and inner corners

1. Economy option: sum up the lengths of all the outer corners of the building and divide them by 3 m (the length of one corner). But with this approach, the framing of all corners, except for the first one, will be made of several fragments of corners (at least two), unless their lengths are exactly 3 m. virtues. If the user wants to get a flawless finish, you should not be stingy and purchase one whole corner for each corner.
2. As a compromise, you can purchase whole parts for the corners from the side of the street, and lay out those located from the side of the courtyard or hidden, for example, by green spaces, from a few pieces left after trimming.

Total length of starting bars

It is calculated according to the following formula: Lst = P + Wok,

P is the perimeter of the building;

Wok - the total width of all window openings.

Example: for cladding a house that is a rectangle with dimensions of 10x6 m in plan and has 8 window openings 1 m wide, the starting bar will need:

Lst \u003d 10 + 6 + 10 + 6 + 8x1 \u003d 40 m.

The number of parts is not difficult to determine by dividing 40 m by their standard length of 3.8 m. For the house in our example, 11 starting strips will need to be purchased.

Calculation of the need for other elements

The calculation of the number of other elements is carried out as follows:

1. The number of J-strips, if any, is determined by dividing the total length of all ends, except for those converging at the corners, by the length of one piece of 3.8 m.
2. Planks with a T-shaped and H-shaped section are counted individually on the lining scheme, which must first be drawn.
3. Near-window strips are calculated individually so that they, like corners, are used only in one piece. The same applies to platbands.
4. When calculating spotlights, their area is determined in m 2: the total length of all parts is multiplied by the width determined design features eaves.

The length of the wind board is taken equal to the total length of the slopes of the gables.

Experienced craftsmen add 7-10% of the stock for scraps to the calculated volumes. It is better for a novice installer to throw 15%.

Advice. Instead of manually calculating, you can use special online calculators posted on the websites of some siding manufacturers and suppliers. It is enough to enter into the program several sizes that she is interested in, and she will instantly give the exact number of panels and additional elements.

Preparatory work

Before direct installation of the cladding, you must perform the following steps:

1. The main material of the walls is exempt from old cladding, as well as from the dust and dirt present on it.
2. Rotten or moldy places are cut off and cleaned with sandpaper to “healthy” wood. Inspection should be carried out with the utmost attention: even a small colony of microorganisms hiding under the siding will have time to cause considerable damage to building structures before it is discovered.
3. Next, the walls must be thoroughly lubricated with antiseptic impregnation.
4. After the impregnation has dried, the walls are covered with a waterproofing vapor-permeable membrane. Be careful: such a film must be installed on the correct side. At this stage, it will be enough to lightly grab it, for example, with a construction stapler. In the future, the membrane will be more firmly fixed by the frame.

Note! Plaster, if it is in good condition, can not be knocked down. During the installation of the siding frame, it can fall off in places, but this does not threaten anything special building structures.

Frame installation

First of all, you need to decide on the material of the frame. Wood is cheaper and easier to work with, but two things must be taken into account:

1. The maximum permissible humidity for timber is 20%, and it must be dried in the open air. Finding such material is not so easy, since, as a rule, freshly sawn wood with a moisture content of over 50% goes on sale. The frame made from it will undergo the shrinkage already mentioned here, that is, it will dry and deform at the same time.
2. Even after treatment with the most effective antiseptic impregnation wooden frame will not be durable because it does not have waterproofing protection.

Reiki in a wooden frame has to be installed quite often - every 30 cm.

More practical material is galvanized steel. The profiles made from it are not afraid of moisture, under no circumstances will they change their shape and can be installed in increments of 40 cm.

Frame elements are installed perpendicular to the siding panels. That is, if the cladding will be mounted horizontally (the most common option), then the rails or frame profiles should be screwed to the walls vertically. The construction of the frame begins with the installation of elements at the corners of the building, then the profiles framing the window and doorways. After that, you can install intermediate elements.

With a vertical arrangement of profiles, their installation is controlled with a plumb line, with a horizontal one - with the help of a building level.

Do-it-yourself wooden house siding: step by step instructions

A feature of PVC plastic is a relatively high coefficient of thermal expansion. Therefore, vinyl siding must be installed in such a way that it remains able to change in size with changes in temperature. The master must adhere to the following rules:

1. Leave a gap of 1–1.5 mm between the surface of the plastic and the head of a nail or self-tapping screw. The fastener should be positioned in the very center of the oval fastening hole.
2. Expansion joints should be left between adjacent elements of the siding.

The guaranteed clearance depends on the ambient temperature during installation:

• at a minimum temperature (for most brands of siding it is -5 degrees, for some - up to -20 degrees C), parts must be installed with a gap of 9-10 mm;
• when installed in warm weather, the joint width is 6 mm;
• in hot conditions, the gap should be reduced to 3–4 mm.

If the siding parts are tightly clamped or installed close to each other and to other elements of the building, the cladding will warp when it gets warmer.

Step by step instructions for installing siding

Step 1: installation begins by fixing the starting bar. With horizontal installation, it is allowed along the bottom, controlling the position with a building level (if there is no reference point like a basement).

Step 2: install the first panel. With one edge, it starts under the protrusion of the starting bar, with the other it is screwed or nailed to the frame. In this case, there should not be any forces and tensions in the panel.

Advice. Siding can also be fastened to a wooden frame with nails, but it is better for a novice master to use self-tapping screws - hammering a nail with a hammer, it is very easy to damage the plastic panel.

Self-tapping screws should be used galvanized 25–30 mm long, equipped with a press washer. Their approximate number is 20 pcs. per 1 m 2 of cladding. As already mentioned, the screws should not be tightened all the way, so that plastic part there was some freedom of movement.

Step 3: continuing the installation of the first row, screw the second panel. It can connect with the first in two ways:

1. Overlap. In this case, both edges of the panels (they are called lock and nail) are cut so that the overlap is 25 mm.
2. Butt joint with temperature gap. In this case, the ends of the panels at the junction are closed with a T- or H-shaped profile. Do not forget that this profile should also be free to expand: a 3 mm gap is left between its upper end and the cornice (or soffit), and 6 mm between the lower end and the plinth, porch or similar restriction. In this case, the lower end of this part should be 6 mm below the lowest edge of the starting bar.

Note! If the house was built recently and has an extension, it is necessary to take into account the different amount of shrinkage of the foundations of both structures. Based on this, their lining should be made separate, even if the extension wall continues the wall of the house. In this case, the panels on the border between the structures are necessarily joined using an H-shaped profile.

Step 3: Start laying the 2nd row. Having placed the panel with the locking edge down, it must be coupled with the panel of the previous row; while the nail edge is screwed to the frame. The subsequent rows are laid in the same way.

Step 4: having reached the window openings, the panels that will be located under them are cut by an amount equal to the width of the opening plus one expansion joint on each side. Further, on these panels, it is necessary to arrange hooks (cut out and squeezed out with a special punch), with the help of which they will engage with platbands or near-window strips.

The panel located above the opening is also cut and equipped with hooks, through which it will “grab” the upper frame of the window. You can screw the starting bar over the opening - then the hooks will not be needed.

Step 5: having laid the penultimate row, we fasten the upper edging close to the cornice or soffit - the finishing bar, J-profile or inner corner. Next, you need to figure out how much to cut the width of the panel of the last row: for this, we measure the distance between the lock of the penultimate row and the recess in the final part at several points, subtracting the temperature gap of 1–3 mm from this value. In accordance with the obtained size, it is necessary to narrow the panels of the last row by cutting them from the side of the upper (nail) edge. For fastening in the finishing bar or a part installed instead of it, hooks squeezed outward are made in the upper part of the panels. Their pitch is 20 cm. The upper edge of the panel with hooks is inserted into the finishing bar, and the lower edge into the lock of the lower row. The panel is then pushed up so that the lock at the bottom and the hooks at the top click into place at the same time.

Step 6: move on to facing the gables. To do this, the ends of the panels must be cut at an angle equal to the angle of inclination of the slope. The easiest way to do this is using a pre-made template.

Before starting work along the overhangs, it is necessary to fix the J-profiles, under which the ends of the panels will be hidden. Further actions are performed in the same way as when facing walls. The panels must be positioned so that there is a gap of 6 mm between them and the J-profiles.

Step 7: it remains to fix the spotlights with which the under-eaves space is hemmed. It is done like this:

1. We draw a line on the wall, which is a projection of the lower edge of the eaves.
2. Along this line, we fasten the receiving profile for the soffit to the wall and one more along the edge of the eaves.
3. We measure the distance between the inner walls of the profiles and subtract 6 mm from the resulting figure.
4. We cut the soffit in accordance with the calculated value and install it between the profiles.

Vertical installation of siding is carried out in a similar way, only the frame profiles are screwed horizontally, and the starting bar is laid vertically so that its position coincides with the central axis of the wall.

Insulated siding installation

If the walls of the house do not consist of insulated sandwich panels ( frame technology), and from a solid log or timber - they should be insulated. The heat insulator is chosen taking into account the vapor permeability of the wall:

• if inside it is lined with a vapor barrier or finished with a vapor-tight material ( vinyl wallpapers or polymer plaster), you can use foam;
• if nothing prevents the penetration of steam into the wall from the inside, insulation should be done with basalt wool. The vapor permeability of the foam is 0.05 mg / m * h * Pa, so if it is installed on top of a wall that passes steam well, moisture forms on its outer surface.

Basalt wool is produced in the form of flexible mats (this design is also called rolled) and rigid slabs.

The mats are glued to the wall, then covered with a vapor-permeable waterproofing film and finally fixed with frame profiles.

Plates - both basalt and foam - are mounted a little differently:

1. A wooden frame is fixed on the wall, the bars of which are placed parallel to the siding panels. That is, if it is assumed horizontal mounting cladding, then the wooden frame for insulation should be installed horizontally. The step between the bars should be equal to the width of the heat insulator plates, and the height of the bars should be equal to the thickness of these plates.
2. Heat insulator plates are laid between the frame elements. For convenience, they can be grabbed with glue.
3. From above, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing film, which is sewn to the frame with a construction stapler. Please note: it should be vapor-permeable only if basalt wool is used as a heat insulator. Styrofoam can be covered with a cheaper film, such as polyethylene.
4. A siding frame is installed on top of the insulation frame, the profiles of which are already perpendicular to the cladding panels (in our example, vertically). At the same time, these profiles will keep the insulation in the gap between the bars.

Do not finish at temperatures below those indicated in the siding documentation. Under such conditions, the material becomes brittle and will crumble when cutting parts.

Installation of vinyl cladding should begin from the back of the house, that is, the one that is not visible from the street. At first, novice masters, until they get their hands on it, always make mistakes, and here they will be the least noticeable. Such an installation order is all the more desirable if the panels are overlapped in length, since the joints from the side of the street will be practically invisible.

Every 3rd row must be checked for horizontality using a level.

Video: do-it-yourself wooden house siding

Installing siding is a wonderful way to finish a wooden house, which provides protection to the main building material, allowing you to give the house the desired appearance. The most popular is PVC siding, which is easy to install yourself.