Description of sharpening knives for woodworking machines. Planer knife sharpener

Sharpening knives for woodworking machines is a mandatory process that you can do yourself with the help of special tools. Sharpening is the restoration of the previous cutting capabilities of hacksaws, scissor shafts, planers, planers and other devices for woodworking.

• To sharpen the knife shaft of a planer, jointer, you will need the appropriate tool;
• Sharpening work is done by hand;
• Craftsmen learned how to assemble grinding devices;
• When restoring hacksaws, planers, sharpening knife shafts, be sure to follow a few recommendations, strictly follow the technology;
• If the teeth of the hacksaws, the knife shafts are not sharpened correctly, the quality of wood processing with tools will deteriorate significantly;
• Grindstones are a good alternative to a grinder. But if it is possible to assemble with your own hands or purchase a grinding machine, be sure to use it.

Preparatory activities

If you need to sharpen knives for a woodworking machine, you should start with the mandatory preparation steps. It is not so important what parameters the knife shaft or cutting sheets of hacksaws have 13 mm, 20 mm or all 200 mm, they will definitely need sharpening.

Some people prefer to give blunt shafts to special workshops, where they can easily restore the previous sharpness of a 200 mm knife or a small cutter. lathe. But both ordering sharpening and buying new knife shafts is a financially costly business.

Preparation for sharpening begins with an acquaintance with the available means of restoring the surfaces of cutting tools and some recommendations.

1. To keep jointers, planers, and hacksaws in working order, assemble or purchase an appropriate sharpening tool.
2. Simplest, a budget option- It's a grindstone. But the quality of processing directly depends on your ability to work with a stone. If there are none, it is extremely difficult to achieve the desired level of sharpening. Plus, stones are not able to cope with all types of cutting tools that modern woodworking machines are equipped with.
3. Choose a machine that can sharpen at low speeds, as this has a positive effect on the quality of processing.
4. The recommended piece of equipment for the grinder is a water cooling system.
5. Carefully study the complete set of household woodworking machines. Often there is already a whetstone, which is optimally suited in terms of parameters for processing the knives used.
6. If the stone is not provided in the package, it will have to be purchased separately, aligned with a special tool, and smoothed. Only in this way can you sharpen the knife shafts of planers with high quality.
7. On machines there is a function of setting the angle of inclination, adjustable with a special screw. By turning the screw and changing the position of the sharpener, you will be able to correctly fix the tool relative to the stone.
8. Next preparatory stage- this is the holder in which the knife shaft is installed.
9. If you are a beginner, it is not recommended to start the first job with 200 mm knives. Start literally with 13-15 mm, and gradually you will learn how to process 200 mm and even 2 mm. To do this, you need to accumulate some experience.
10. The length of the knife is not a fundamental parameter, since the knife in the holder can move to the distance you need.
11. Make sure to keep firmly fixed the shaft. Otherwise, you will get a significant distortion, due to which the quality of woodworking will suffer.
12. Read the instruction manual of the purchased grinder in detail. If this is a do-it-yourself tool, you will have to rely on the drawings and available information on the network about a specific sharpening project.

sharpening

In order for the sharpening of knives for a woodworking machine to give a positive result, you can resume working with equipment at the same quality level, you need to follow a few fairly simple rules.

1. The sharpener holder can move left and right relative to the knife sharpening stone.
2. Don't let the blade go over the edge.
3. Immediately fix the holder at a distance of 12 mm from the edge of the grinding wheel.
4. When sharpening knives of 200 mm or smaller, make sure that the water cooling function is activated on the machine.
5. The cooling system requires constant monitoring. The tank usually has a small volume, so water needs to be topped up periodically. If it ends, and the sharpening process continues without cooling, you risk ruining a rather expensive knife.
6. As the knives are processed, water from the cooling system may accumulate on the floor. Since grinders are electrical appliances, be sure to keep water away from your feet by wearing rubber boots. In any case, standing in a puddle of water while working with an electric machine is always dangerous. Adhere to safety regulations.
7. Keep the grindstone clean. It gets dirty quite quickly with active use.
8. The grinding wheels of machine tools are cleaned using a special tool. Machines should be equipped with this cleaning bar, but if it is not in the set, then you will have to purchase it separately.
9. Each subsequent sharpening, according to the rules of operation, is carried out only on condition that the stone is cleaned. Therefore, after each sharpening, arm yourself with a cleaning bar, processing the machine with it.
10. On average, sharpening with a special machine takes about 10-20 minutes. It all depends on the type and size of the tool that has become dull as a result of woodworking operations.
11. After sharpening the tools of woodworking machines, do not rush to return them to their place and continue working. After processing on the machine, the tool needs to be fine-tuned.
12. Finishing consists in applying a special paste to the surface of the cutting element. Proceed according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer of finishing paste on the package. Different pastes may differ slightly in application methods.

If you did everything right, then the knife should turn out to be perfectly even, sharply sharpened, devoid of any irregularities, burrs. Do not worry when the first time the result does not live up to expectations. This takes some time and some experience. That's why it's worth starting with simple and inexpensive knives that you don't mind ruining.

To sharpen these knives, Tormek has the SVH-320 tool. It consists of an independent caliper and mandrel.

The caliper is mounted on the machine on two screw posts, each of which has an adjusting nut. Nuts are marked with digital scales for fine adjustment of the vertical position of the caliper. An aluminum guide is installed on screw racks on two axes. Its design is such that the mandrel with the knife clamped in it makes strictly horizontal working movements. The angle of inclination of the guide, respectively, and the angle of sharpening knives, is adjusted using a spring-loaded adjusting screw.

On the guide there is a steel rod, on which there are two bushings-limiters. They serve to limit the movement of the mandrel along the guide. The bushings are set in the required position on the rod and are fixed on it with the help of screws in the body of the bushings. Loosen and tighten these screws with the small hex wrench included with the SVH-320.

The knife to be sharpened is clamped into the mandrel with a U-shaped profile and five screws. It is possible to clamp knives up to 300 mm in length and at least 13 mm in width. I saw somewhere in a Tormek advertisement how knives with a length of 450-500 millimeters are sharpened using the SVH-320. But it seems to me that this is more a way out than the norm. In the upper part of the mandrel, in the center, there is a pin, which, during sharpening, rests against the bushings-limiters.

Well, it's time to get down to business. I fill the machine with water to the norm.

Sharpening this type of knife is a rather responsible undertaking. It is worth using the TT-50 fixture. The working surface of the abrasive wheel will become smooth and clean. The rotation of the circle will be smooth, without beating.

The grooves that result from the application of TT-50 can be put to good use. In this state, the abrasive wheel quickly removes metal. And this is true when you sharpen knives with small potholes from knots, and even worse, nails.

But in addition to the speed of sharpening, it is necessary to achieve the cleanliness of sharpening the RK.

To do this, you still have to use the double-sided stone SP-650. With it, I only slightly smooth the working surface of the circle. In the process of sharpening, the grooves will smooth out fairly quickly, but I will sharpen the first knife much faster than the others.

Here are our experimental knives. Two knives from a Makita planer, two knives from an electric planer. Makita knives are sharpened on one side only, electric planer knives are sharpened on both sides.

I put a long knife from a thicknessing machine into the SVH-320 mandrel without gaps and distortions. I tighten the central screw, then the adjacent, and then the extreme screws.

I install the SVH-320 caliper on the machine, as shown in the photo.

I put the mandrel on the caliper guide. To do this, you may have to raise the caliper using the adjusting nuts.

Adjusting the sharpening angle with the SVH-320 can be done using a permanent black marker. The Tormek user manual only lists this method, and I have already described it in the topic about sharpening axes.

I sometimes set the sharpening angle using the WM-200 goniometer, as shown in the photo. This method is good when the knives are constantly in my service, and I know exactly at what angle they were sharpened by me last time. With the help of nuts on the screw posts of the caliper and a spring-loaded screw, we set required angle sharpening.

There are only two settings here, but they affect each other. At first, people have difficulty with fine tuning, but with the advent of skill and experience, the difficulties disappear.

After the sharpening angle is set, fix the SVH-320 caliper by tightening the locking screws on the Tormek vertical guides. Then you need to make sure that the RC of the knife and the working surface of the circle adjoin each other tightly and without distortions. The Swedes suggest doing this with two strips of tissue paper. I do it “in the light”, i.e. install on the opposite side of the machine table lamp and I look at the light gap between the stone and the RC of the knife.

If everything is in order, proceed to the “rough” sharpening of the knife. The longitudinal movement of the mandrel with the knife must be uniform. I do a small but uniform pressure on the stone. Otherwise, the RK of the knife will turn out to be wavy.

Having achieved a distinct burr along the entire length of the RK, I proceed to fine sharpening. I take a double-sided bar SP-650, smooth the working surface of the abrasive stone.

I do a clean cut. Several working passes are sufficient.

I get something like this RK:

Electric planer knives are sharpened in the same way. To fix them in the mandrel, three screws are enough.

Both sides of the planer knife are sharpened. Therefore, it will take 4 cycles of “rough-finish” sharpening to sharpen two knives.

The photo shows that I do not use limiter bushings. I think they will be really useful when you have to sharpen a batch of knives of the same type. If you need to sharpen 2-6 knives, then visual control is enough, in my opinion.

I get this RK:

I start finishing the RK knives on the “leather” circle. I pre-coat the circle with Tormek PA-70 finishing paste.

I do fine-tuning of the RK from the opposite side of the knife.

Similarly, I bring the RK of knives from a thicknessing machine.

Finishing from the reverse side. It is important to achieve deburring along the entire length of the RC.

I get this result. Well-sharpened knives confidently cut a newspaper sheet. I am sure that the quality of the surface of wood planed with such knives will please the carpenter or cabinetmaker.

One of the drawbacks of the SVH-320 is the water flowing down on both sides of the sharpening. The fact is that when you sharpen long knives, water flows down the knife being sharpened either to the left or to the right. Water falls on the leather circle, and then on the drive wheel. The rubber surface of the drive wheel gets wet and the machine begins to slip.

I have learned to work around these problems. To keep water out of my workbench, I first place a ribbed car rubber mat on it. All spilled water will be collected in it. And so that water does not get on the drive wheel, I put a substrate about 1 cm thick under the legs of the machine from the side of the leather circle. In this case, the water no longer drips onto the leather circle, but flows down the knife being sharpened back to the abrasive wheel.

I am generally satisfied with this development by Tormek. So far I have not seen anything on which it would be possible to sharpen such knives with better quality. Maybe in time someone will change my mind.

Owners of planers and electric planers periodically face the problem of sharpening cutting edges. A well-sharpened tool will ensure clean woodworking even at non-ideal angles and speeds. The easiest way to sharpen knives and knife heads with your own hands using specialized equipment.

Sharpening of knives is necessary

Planer knives require timely maintenance because:

• dull surfaces do not process wood well;
• when processing soft rocks with blunt knives, the surface is covered with pile and irregularities;
• worn edges crumble;
• during planing with blunt edges, the engine and power units are overloaded.

Attempts to sharpen blades with your own hands using diamond stones, as a rule, give a short-term result. Due to poor-quality editing, the blades have to be sharpened soon. Therefore, professional carpenters use only mechanical sharpening.

Types and designs of machines

The machines on the market are distinguished by the knife feed mechanism:

• manually;
• automatically.

The machine for sharpening planer knives with manual feed consists of:

• grounds;
• abrasive stone;
• carriages for fixing the knife.

During processing, the cutter moves progressively with the help of a handle. The lateral movement of the cutter is provided by a flywheel.

Automatic machines differ in size and set of options. Mechanisms for industrial applications installed on a powerful cast-iron frame. The carriage is equipped with a support. You can set the speed of movement of the blade and the thickness of the removed metal layer. Industrial machines allow you to sharpen several planer blades at the same time without changing the settings.

	Corvette K-470	WTG-163	GA-630	GA-850	ZX-1000
Maximum length of knives, mm	630	630	640	850	1000
Abrasive disc diameter, mm	100	150	125	125
Sharpening angle, hail	35…55	up to 30	35…45	35…45	up to 30
Engine power, W	550	550	850	850	1500
Dimensions, cm	90 x 48 x 42	100 x 60 x 65	100 x 54 x 120	120 x 54 x 120	190 x 56 x 150
Weight, kg	75	60	112	125	250
Add. intelligence	Equipped with asynchronous motor wet sharpening possible	Processes cutters, circular saws	Wet sharpening possible	Can sharpen up to 4 blades, wet	Wet method available, cup type sanding disc, controlled via remote control

Table 1. Characteristics of some models of machines for sharpening planer knives

Compact automatic machines for home and small workshops are designed to process one torch at a time. They also provide speed control and automatic tool feed.

Before starting work on any sharpening equipment, you should make sure that the bed is firmly attached. The vibration of the machine worsens the quality of sharpening and can lead to injury to the master.

Basic rules for using manual feed equipment

Such machines are used for one-time work and do-it-yourself sharpening of small batches of blades, since the processing process is quite long.

• Before starting work, make sure that the grinding surface is clean, free of stains and streaks.
• The movement of the carriage should be smooth, without jerks and jerks. It is forbidden to stop it at the moment the cutter approaches the grindstone.
• The faster the carriage moves, the lower the quality of sharpening. The optimal speed of movement is 5 - 6 m / minute.
• For correct sharpening the amplitude of the movement of the carriage is important. For the passage in each direction, it should move 10 - 13 cm beyond the end of the knife. This ensures optimum contact between cutter and sharpener, which must be interrupted before moving in the opposite direction.

Basic rules for working on automatic machines

• Planer knives can be sharpened dry or wet. In the second case, the blade is constantly washed by a jet of water. The wet method is more gentle on the blade and more efficient;
• Before starting processing, it is necessary to set the parameters: sharpening angle, carriage movement amplitude. The amplitude should be 15 cm more than the length of the knife;
• Do-it-yourself blades are carefully fixed in a mobile carriage.

Homemade machine for sharpening planer knives

The design, made at home with your own hands, allows you to quickly and accurately sharpen knives at one set angle. The factory angle will change, so all blades will need to be resharpened. The quality of planing will not deteriorate, but may improve.

To make a device for sharpening straight blades of planers, planers and thicknessers with your own hands, you need:

• metal corner No. 50;
• round pipe with a diameter of not more than 50 mm;
• an electric motor from a washing machine;
• powerful spring;
• bolt with nut;
• plastic handle (knob);
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine.

Making a machine with your own hands.

1. Cut off a corner about 50 cm long.
2. We bend two pieces of the pipe in such a way that we get a stable stand for the corner, weld the legs. The corner should be vertical plane to the master.
3. At the left end, around the corner, we attach the electric motor. It is placed on two points: a rigid axis and a powerful spring; The spring is tightened and released with the adjusting screw, moving the motor closer or further away from the guide-corner.
4. We put an abrasive wheel on the motor shaft.
5. The engine is started by a switch placed on the frame in a convenient place.
6. We feed the tool with the help of home-made vices from a piece of pipe 25 cm long, a pressure plate, a bolt with a nut and a knob. We clamp the knife in a vice and move it along the guide, holding the knob.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening is a painstaking procedure due to the hardness of the products being cut, the frequency of use of the tool, and the thickness of the cutting edge.

The need for surgery arises regardless of the quality of the blade. How to do it at home? Let's try to figure it out.

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Why do you need to sharpen knives, can you do it yourself

Any hostess knows that knife sharpening is very important: working with a blunt tool is not only difficult, but also dangerous. The process slows down significantly and requires serious effort, as a result of which the muscles of the hand get tired quickly. In addition, the blade is capable of jumping off and causing injury at the most crucial moment.

You can carry the product to the workshop, where you will quickly sharpen it. But where is the guarantee that the work will be done correctly and the blade will not be spoiled? In addition, this service is far from free and requires a significant amount of time. And, sometimes, it is very lacking in preparation for the celebration, for example, in order to cook dinner on time. If the knife sharpening machine is at home, you don’t have to go anywhere. The quality will depend only on your skill, the tools and devices used.

Why knives lose their sharpness

No matter how high-quality the steel of the blade is, sooner or later any knife becomes dull. Why is this happening?

In the process of interaction with the material being cut, the cutting edge loses microscopic fragments of steel. At the same time, its shape changes, and the blade loses its sharpness.

In addition, this process causes deformation of the blade. When cutting products, we apply a force that almost always deviates in one direction or another. Of course, if this were the only reason, then it would not be necessary to sharpen knives so often. Another detail is important, the influence of which on sharpness is much more significant.

Maintaining the direction in accordance with the plane of the blade is almost impossible. As a result, the thin edge is slightly bent, and it becomes much more difficult for the knife to overcome the resistance of the material being cut. This process occurs especially quickly if the blade is made of low-quality steel.

There is a point of view that hot water can dull the blade. To some extent, this is true. In the process of contact with steel, salts dissolved in water react with the metal, causing a change in its properties that is far from for the better. But such an impact is not decisive and has no serious significance.

Prices for knives

Basic principles of knife sharpening

There are several ways to sharpen. The choice depends on the time you have, the purpose of the knife, the tools and fixtures available.

The general principles are:

• initial processing is carried out with a coarse-grained abrasive;
• subsequent grinding is performed with fine-grained material;
• leather or various pastes of varying degrees of abrasiveness are used for final finishing.

To facilitate the work can be used purchased or homemade device for sharpening knives.

At what angle should knives be sharpened?

The sharpening angle mainly depends on their purpose and, accordingly, the quality of the material from which they are made. What value of the sharpening angle should be for knives designed for various needs is indicated in the table:

In some cases, the angle can be reduced to 15º if the tool is used for a special purpose, such as slicing fresh baked goods.

Applicable materials

Do-it-yourself manual knife sharpeners can be made using bars of varying degrees of abrasiveness. The latter are conditionally divided into the following groups:

• the roughest, which is not applicable in this case (from 200 to 250);
• coarse - to form the profile of the cutting blade of the blade. If there are no visible defects, such stones are not used (from 300 to 350);
• medium - as above, they are used infrequently, mainly for rough adjustment of the blade profile (from 400 to 500);
• small - the main type of stones used for sharpening knives (from 600 to 700);
• very small - used to bring an already sharpened blade to a mirror look.

These stones are made from various materials. A do-it-yourself manual sharpener can be made from natural and artificial bars. Natural - from natural stone(corundum, shale, etc.). Artificial - made of synthetic materials or diamond. Moreover, natural ones wear out more strongly and do not differ in large grain size.

Prices for abrasive stones

abrasive bars

Before use, it is preferable to moisten the bars with water or soapy water.

Note: a bar should be used, having a length significantly exceeding the blade being sharpened.

In addition to abrasive bars, can be used:

• homemade devices that serve as their holder;
• sharpening machines for knives;
• mechanical sharpeners;
• musats - devices for finishing a sharpened blade and representing several metal disks nested one inside the other.

This list may be expanded. We have given only the main tools used.

Manual sharpening rules

In order to sharpen the cutting edge correctly, you must follow the specified sequence of actions:

1. on initial stage we perform work with a bar of medium or large grain size, depending on the condition of the blade; it would be more correct to fix the bar from displacement;
2. determine the required sharpening angle; on each side of the blade, its value is half of the total; the main thing is to keep this angle unchanged;
3. movements should not be jerky; no significant effort should be made;
4. the initial move is carried out away from you, the edge must go along the entire length of the bar. Please note: when in contact with the bar, the blade must be directed at a right angle relative to the direction of movement;
5. in the place of rounding of the blade, it should be turned to maintain the desired angle;
6. at the end of the movement, the blade should not come off the bar, because this may cause it to become dull or damage the side surface;
7. then we move in the opposite direction;
8. we continue the sequence of these operations until a bent thin strip appears on the blade; checking for its presence, you can not run your finger along the blade, because you can easily get hurt on sharp edges; if the knife is sharpened correctly, this edge should be the same width on the entire blade;
9. turn the tool over and repeat the operations until a similar result;
10. we take a smaller donkey and sharpen further, but we no longer move on ourselves - only in the forward direction; since the grain of the bar is smaller, the amount of burr along the edge is also reduced;
11. we process the reverse side in the same way;
12. we repeat these operations on both sides on an even smaller stone; if the burr still remains, we remove it with the finest-grained bar; we remind you that the movements are still carried out in one direction - away from you; the pressing force is reduced towards the end of the operation.

Sharpening finished. It is also possible to finish the blade on a leather strip. An old belt will do just fine.

How to make a homemade device

It is quite possible to make a machine for sharpening knives at home. Let's consider some of them.

Option number 1: the blade is fixed on a fixed platform

This device helps to sharpen the blade, providing the required edge angle. Below is a do-it-yourself knife sharpener. Drawings and drawings.

A homemade knife sharpener can be made in the same way as shown in the figure.

The principle of operation and design are clear. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

1. the base can be chipboard or steel plate; it is marked and drilled under the stand and blade holder;
2. on the side of the base opposite to the rack mounting, a hole is drilled for the M8 bolt for attaching the knife clamp;
3. two M10 studs are made: one for the stand, the second for the holder for the abrasive bar;
4. a bracket is made for mounting the holder's stud on the rack (by drilling and bending a steel or aluminum plate;
5. brackets of the whetstone holder itself are made from two corners;
6. a clamp for the blade is made;
7. the structure is assembled in the form shown in the figure.

This device has one drawback: it is not able to provide a right angle between the movement being performed and the blade edge in the place of its rounding.

Option number 2: with a movable platform and a magnetic holder

This problem is solved by the following construction. It is performed in the same way, but a magnetic holder is used to attach the knife. Thus, it is possible to move the magnetic holder with the blade installed in it and turn it to the required angle. This knife sharpener is available with a base plate or can be attached to a table as shown in the photo.

It will greatly facilitate the process of sharpening knives.

How do-it-yourself planer knives are sharpened

Any man who has such equipment in the house has dealt with the sharpening of his knives. To do this, use special devices and abrasives. Certainly, if the machine is often used, it is advisable to have the necessary device at home. Consider how to do it yourself.

How to make a machine for sharpening a planer knife yourself (step by step instructions)

To make a do-it-yourself grinder for straightening this knife, you will need to select the necessary parts:

• plan-washer;
• bed;
• electric motor;
• vacuum cleaner;
• fencing.

Production is carried out as follows:

1. The electric motor is mounted directly under the bed; be sure to take care of the equipment with its control buttons "stop", "start";
2. A plan washer is installed on the output shaft, which is closed with a square fence with a cut-out groove;
3. On the lower plane of the table, a hole is made according to the size of the vacuum cleaner sleeve, the latter is designed to remove the dust generated during sharpening.

What you need to know

The electric motor may not necessarily be fixed under the base of the plan-washer. It is possible to use a belt drive, but this will complicate the design.

With this machine, you can also sharpen axes and saws.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharpness of the ice drill allows the fisherman to make no effort to drill holes in the ice during winter fishing. But for this it is necessary to sharpen the knives of this device.

Sharpening methods are quite diverse. One of them is the use of a self-made tool.

How to make an ice drill machine with your own hands

Two steel strips 4 mm thick and 60x200 mm in size are required. Automotive spring steel can be used, but it is difficult to bend. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a different material.

Progress

First, the fixture frame is made. The strips are bent so that the knife chamfers, which are pressed against the edges of the rounding, are at the same level and are parallel to each other.

Then a clamp for sharpened products is made from another strip.

Holes are made in the plate and body. The clamping plate is bolted to the body, with the knives clamped. It is checked how tightly they fit to the surface of the end part of the abrasive wheel.

If the angle of the knives is incorrect, the device should be modified by bending the arc of the body. After making sure of the correct placement, we disassemble the fixture and weld the stiffeners to the body arc.

It is better to place the emery wheel horizontally, this ensures water retention on its surface. Cooling the knives with water will avoid overheating of the steel during sharpening.

Minus the device

The disadvantage of this machine is the impossibility of its use if the chamfers on the knives are located at different angles. Since various manufacturers of ice screws have different design, a universal fixture can be of great help.

Implementation of a universal device for sharpening an ice drill

It allows you to overcome the above obstacle. Adjustment of knives is carried out by screws, besides, the possibility of reliable fixation in different positions relative to the abrasive wheel is provided.

This device will require door hinge with a minimum stroke and an M8 screw with a nut. Holes up to 7 mm in diameter are drilled on the shelves of the canopy to secure the knives.

A clamping plate with a groove for the clamping screw is made from a 3 mm thick metal strip. They are boiled to the slats of the canopy.

Additionally, you can drill a few more holes, for greater versatility of the device, so that you can sharpen non-standard knives.

How to sharpen planer knives

This equipment is also widely used at home. It allows you to bring the raw lumber to the required condition. Naturally, sharpening knives for woodworking machines is periodically required.

To make the necessary devices, you will need different materials: steel, wood, etc.

The latch itself is made of wood. Grooves are made on it at 45º. Editing of knives is carried out by a belt grinder or an abrasive bar.

It is important to maintain the exact angle - this ensures the correct processing.

Sharpening with an electric sharpener

Equipment equipped with an electric drive greatly facilitates the work and reduces the duration of the process. But such devices require precision movements and experience.

Do-it-yourself electric knife sharpener is performed with an installed handpiece to support the product being sharpened, with the ability to adjust the gap between it and the abrasive wheel.

Note: must be equipped with a protective shield to protect the eyes from dust.

Processing is performed by the front surface of the circle. You can not use its side faces. The knife is installed on the handpiece with the cutting edge up and held along the axis of the product. The movement is carried out evenly, smoothly, without strong pressure.

After sharpening on both sides, the final refinement of the cutting edge should be carried out with fine-grained stones until the bend of the edge of the blade disappears completely.

Of course, a do-it-yourself knife sharpener can be made, but specialized sharpeners are offered for sale, which are absolutely safe and allow you to freely sharpen knives for any purpose.

To do this, after turning on the device, the knife is inserted into the desired slot and evenly drawn along it until the edge is completely sharpened.

These devices provide excellent sharpening quality. Their disadvantage is the inability to adjust the angle of the cutting edge.

Useful video: knife sharpener ideas

Whatever equipment and tools you use, the main thing is to observe safety when performing this operation. Remember that it is much easier to cut yourself with a dull knife than a sharp one. Therefore, let the knives in your house always be sharpened.

Special machines are used for sharpening planer and planer knives. The work can be done with your own hands, the machine, if necessary, is assembled independently. Sharpening is carried out according to certain rules, several options are used. It is required to show attention, not to break the technology.

Otherwise, knives for planers, planers and planers will be processed poorly, they will not be able to perform their functions to the fullest. In addition to special equipment, grinding stones can be used for sharpening, but a small grinder that has cooling is best suited for work.

Preparatory work

Everyone who has a planer or jointer faces the problem of sharpening knives. Constantly buying new ones is expensive, especially since knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands, using special machines or whetstones for this. If the planer is used frequently, like other woodworking equipment, then it will be inconvenient to constantly give knives to the workshop for sharpening. It is better to assemble the machine yourself. To ensure that the jointer is always in working condition, it is recommended that sharpening be done at home. The easiest way to do this is with a regular grinder. You need to take only a sharpener with low speed, its quality should be high. Water cooling must be available.

A grinding stone can also be used, but it must first be leveled with a special device. Usually it comes with a small grinder, so you don’t need to look for such devices additionally. After the editing is completed, it is necessary to smooth the stone, for this a bar is used. Sharpening a planer knife without this step will be problematic.

What to do next? You need to set the angle. A special screw will allow you to properly strengthen the blade relative to the position of the grinding stone. With the help of this screw in the future, you can set any angle of inclination of the knife. Next is the holder that comes with the machine. A cutting knife is installed in it. Experts advise starting sharpening knives with a width of at least 13 mm.. The length is not critical, if necessary, the knife holder can be rearranged to any position.

In the holder, the knife must be securely fastened, otherwise the sharpening will be skewed, and this will worsen the quality of the jointer. How to fix the knife in the holder? While holding the blade in the desired position, tighten the clamping screws until they stop. To control the angle of sharpening, it is necessary to use a marker, it marks the sharpened chamfer of the knife. It is with the help of such a simple method that you can easily control the quality and progress of work. Sharpening will be correct if the corner of the knife touches the stone. The stone must be rotated by hand to determine if further adjustment is needed.

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Sharpening process and working rules

The holder moves to the right and to the left, the movements are made relative to the grinding stone. The blade must not be allowed to go over the edge. It is best to immediately install the holder 12 mm from the edge of the working circle. If sharpening is carried out, water cooling must be supplied. Water will have to be added to the tank, you need to make sure that it does not end. It is necessary to provide that water does not accumulate on the floor near the feet. This is done for security purposes.

When performing work, it is necessary to ensure that the stone always remains clean, as it is salted quickly enough. A special bar is used for cleaning, it is recommended to carry out such a procedure often, since only clean stones can be used for sharpening. The choice of the stone itself depends on which knives are used. Today, manufacturers produce planer knives made of soft or hard tool steel, so working conditions will vary.

It takes about 20 minutes to sharpen, then finishing is performed. For this, a special paste is used. After polishing, no burrs should remain on the surface, otherwise the planer knife will not be ready for work. It is easy to check, a finished knife with excellent sharpening should easily and evenly cut a sheet of paper in weight, leaving a neat cut.

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How to make a machine with your own hands?

To sharpen a planer knife, it is necessary to use special sharpening machines. This is especially important when planing, planing and other woodworking equipment is used frequently. The grinder has a compact size, it can be installed even in a garage or a small shed on suburban area. Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be used during the assembly of the grinder:

• the table on which the work will be carried out;
• faceplate;
• vacuum cleaner;
• engine;
• casing for the machine.

It is necessary to start assembling the machine by finding a suitable faceplate. It is one of the most important parts for a grinding machine. All planer knives are quite narrow, so they can only be sharpened with a faceplate. suitable type. Then the work on sharpening will be of high quality, safe, fast. The faceplate occupies the bulk of the cost of all equipment. To make a grinder yourself is more profitable, expensive parts are not required for it. Manufacturing will be fully justified if you have to often carry out woodworking.

Faceplates need to be bought new, it is recommended to take elements of American or German production. They have the highest quality, and the cost fluctuates at the level of 25,000 rubles. Next, you need to choose an engine for the future grinding machine, it is best to take a 1-1.5 kW motor, you can even use a used item. Motors from old ones are great for the machine washing machines, but first you need to make sure that the engine is working.

The motor is mounted under the tabletop, the faceplate is mounted to the moving part.

It is imperative to provide for a button to turn the machine on / off. It should be located within reach of the hand. The faceplate is covered from above with a casing, which is made in the form of a square. One corner of the casing must be cut off, since this side will be sharpened planer knives with your own hands. A hole is made in the lower part of the countertop, it will be intended for the vacuum cleaner pipe, with which all contaminants that occur during sharpening will be removed. In addition to sharpening planer knives, a similar machine can be used for other work, for example, for processing ax blades, saws and other tools used in a summer cottage.

Planer knives can be sharpened using a variety of methods. For this, special grinding stones are suitable. However, a compact grinder can be assembled by yourself. It will be used to sharpen a variety of tools, including saws and axes.