Installation of the furnace door of a brick oven. How to install the furnace door of the furnace How to strengthen the door in the furnace

Installation of new plumbing and household appliances This section is about installing new plumbing fixtures, as well as replacing old appliances with new ones. Once you have completed the rough plumbing work and carried out fine finish walls, you can proceed to

Installing Appliances and Appliances Many household appliances require proper plumbing work and electrical connections to be connected. These appliances and devices include dishwashers, washing machines,

Replacing the cutter To remove the cutter, you must insert the finger punch, which is included in the delivery, into the hole above the cutter chuck. Then, firmly holding the finger punch (Fig. 14.18), loosen the lower nut by turning it to the left with the key from the delivery set. cutter

Very often, the stove is shifted only because the furnace door has fallen out of it. Usually the doors fall out because they are secured with weak aluminum wire or stranded wires. Sometimes metal plates are laid over the doorway and a wire is screwed behind them from the door. Plates and wire from the fire are burned, then deformed, come out of the masonry, and the door falls out.

Preparing for installation

Before installing oven doors, you need to check whether they open easily. There are tight doors that develop over time. I have not seen asbestos gaskets near the doors in any rural stove in Russia. IN modern conditions asbestos was borrowed from industrial furnaces, which really need it to keep the furnaces at high temperatures.
In indoor ovens, the temperature is not so high, and the door frame is far from the fire and therefore its expansion is insignificant. I even fixed the door with wire for coal-fired fuel and did without asbestos. Despite the fact that part of the wire near the door is exposed, the door stands quite firmly. For a greater guarantee, you can drill holes in the door frame closer to its edge. There are various ways to secure the furnace doors.

Most The best way to avoid the door falling out - when installing from above and below, rivet metal plates 2-3 mm thick with expanded ends to it, and then push them into the brick.
Before installing the oven door, you need to put three bricks dry on the grate in front of it. Is the door with attached plates or wire placed on the mortar, are the plates or ends of the wire spread on the walls, and the other ends are placed on three bricks and pressed from above? one or two bricks. The accuracy of the installation of the door is checked by a plumb line. As a rule, soft, evenly elongated wire 2-3 mm in diameter, about 1 m long, annealed in a furnace or on a fire, is used. her to them, then one, then the other end. Having inserted into the hole of the door frame, the wire is folded in half and twisted tightly so that there are no rings. If they nevertheless turned out, especially near the door, they must be flattened with a hammer along the entire length of the wire. In a taut position, pressing the door against the masonry, the wire is inserted into a small chip (hole) 1 made with a hammer in the brick edge (depth 5-10 mm) closer to the outer edge so that it does not weaken and slip. In the taut position, the wire is pressed tightly with a pick to the bricks in corner 2 along all rows and pressed with a brick in the mortar, and then intertwined with the masonry. You can also direct it upwards. There should be little solution near the door, the seam needs to be made thinner, so it will hold on stronger. The door is not afraid of thermal expansion; with such a bookmark, it will stand for more than a hundred years. If, when laying the top of the door, the wire interferes, then in this place the brick must be cut out.

It is good to block the doorway with two whole bricks so that they are connected in the center of the door. Often, the solution falls out above the doors and the vertical seam is translucent. To eliminate this, it is enough to make notches-holes in both bricks at the places where the mortar is laid with the angle of the hammer. Then, when the solution is compressed in the seams, these pits will keep the solution in the seam and it will not fall out. Shown here are doors with holes. You can make them yourself by simply drilling holes in a regular door.
Very often, furnace doors fail in furnaces, because they have a bad constipation (latch), which sometimes falls off after a few days. Even with correct installation on a plumb line, the door without constipation begins to open randomly. This happens because there is a heavy handle on the door, and it, as a counterweight, helps to open the door. To prevent the door from opening, all sorts of foreign objects are leaned against it - a poker or log, which begins to smoke and often catches fire. Industry, apparently, is not able to invent a reliable constipation for the furnace door.
I offer a simple way to get rid of the arbitrary opening of the doors, at least in those furnaces in which the smoke is knocked out by the wind from the furnace. This method will help forgetful owners to close the door for constipation. If the pipe is laid incorrectly on top of the roof, the wind enters the pipe and knocks smoke out of the firebox. At strong wind the door opens and along with the smoke fire is knocked out, and sometimes burning coals fly out onto the floor. Therefore, it is impossible, if smoke is knocked out of the firebox, to leave it unattended. In addition, be sure to put a sheet of iron on the floor. To prevent the door from opening, you can do the hook.

During the installation of the door in the masonry, it must be kept closed, but not locked. Then you will see how it will open itself at a certain position. In order for the door not to open when the lock is open, the top of the door must be deflected from the vertical position towards the firebox by 2-3 mm. In this case, the heavy handle will press the door against its frame, but perhaps in windy weather the door will open, so it is better to make a cap over the pipe. Doors can be installed so that they open in the other direction. To do this, the doors have a double-sided constipation. This is convenient if the hostess is left-handed or if they open towards a combustible partition, but the latter can interfere during cleaning. For cleaning soot, you can install doors one row high, but for cleaning gas ducts with a wire with a rag bow, they are small in height and not convenient.

Hermetic doors, fixed in the masonry with riveted plates, are very heavy. It is difficult to fasten such doors with wire, since they pull the wire out of the masonry with their weight, but it is possible if the frame with the doors is fixed so that it is installed vertically, and the wire is intertwined with the next two rows of masonry. The plates firmly hold the frame with the doors during masonry. Such wire-fastened doors last for decades until the furnace is demolished. Sometimes doors, especially old ones, do not match the masonry and a gap forms on top of the door. In such cases, it is better to raise the door up flush with the masonry, and put thin brick quarters on the mortar under the door or cut off part of the brick under the door to its entire width, and carve out shallow grooves for the wire that rise obliquely. It is easier and more reliable to fold the arch over the door, as they did in the old days.

The material was kindly provided by the site: http://remstd.ru/archives/ustanovka-pechnoy-dverki/ Recommended!

The bricks of the first row are first laid out without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we put them on the mortar, using the level to check the horizontal position. With light blows of the mallet, we upset the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with mortar bricks, controlling the masonry level. With a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the furnace in terms of and diagonally. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock out the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining the parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After that, we lay the middle of the first row with a brick on the mortar.

Having laid the first row, we lay the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners with a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we lay out the perimeter first, and then the middle of the second row according to the order. Having laid out the second row, we hammer nails 80-100 mm long into the corners in the seam between the first and second row.

Then we lower the plumb line alternately to all corners of the second row and mark on the ceiling the points from which the plumb line was lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and pull it. We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, then we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace in space is obtained. We carry out the laying of subsequent rows, controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We put the subsequent rows in the same way as the first two, checking each row with the order. In the course of laying, we clean the inner and outer surfaces of excess squeezed mortar with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, we wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet cloth.

The thickness of the oven masonry seam should be as thin as possible. In thick seams, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The solution should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During laying, we observe the rule of ligation of bricks. Each vertical seam must be covered with a brick of the next upper row. Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always achievable. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the length of the brick.

It is better to lay out the firebox of the furnace from fireclay bricks, because. it can withstand higher temperatures. Bandaging of masonry seams from fireclay and oven bricks is not desirable due to the different coefficient of linear expansion.

Installation of the furnace door in brickwork

Therefore, either the entire row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the furnace lining is made on edge. We leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and fireclay bricks.

Installation of cleaning and blowing doors

Before installing the door, we check for tight fit of the canvas to the frame, free rotation of the canvas in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry. We eliminate the detected defects before installation or replace the door.

We insert a knitting wire 50-60 cm long into the holes of the doors, fold it in half and twist it.

On brickwork in the place of installation of the door we apply the solution. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontality and fix it with bricks. Then we lay the ends of the wire in the seams of the masonry.

Installation of the grate

When installing oven appliances, it must be remembered that cast iron and brick do not expand the same when heated. This especially affects the behavior of devices installed in the zone high temperatures. If they are tightly walled up in the furnace masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, furnace door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installing the furnace door

The furnace door is installed, as well as the blower door, only it is wrapped with asbestos to fill the temperature gap. We check the verticality and horizontality of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

With intensive use of the furnace, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the top of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame. The clamp is attached to the door with rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or a brick to the castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is performed by a wedge jumper.

Plate installation

The row on which it will be installed, lay out the plate first without mortar. We put the plate on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account the temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the plate. We spread the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with a solution, put an asbestos cord into it along the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and upset it with a mallet, achieving its horizontal level.

Installing the oven

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide. The side of the oven facing the firebox is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top it is covered with a layer of mortar of 25-30 mm to prevent the walls of the oven from burning through.

Arches and vaults

When laying furnaces, it is often necessary to block various furnace openings, fireboxes and all kinds of chambers, using bridges of simple and complex shapes. The overlap in the wall is called an arch, and the overlap arranged between the walls is called a vault. The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the vault must be odd. The middle odd brick is the castle brick.

Any jumper begins with the laying of heels, which are performed according to the template. Since the height of the arch or vault is different, the angle of the heel also changes. You can not use one form of the heel for all arches and vaults.

These photographs show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so I have prepared a video guide "Do-it-yourself ovens" especially for you, which shows all the nuances of laying a brick oven in video format.

How to repair an oven

The Russian stove is a heating and cooking unit with a lounger for rest. It consists of refractory bricks, is located on a raised foundation and is designed for long-term cooling after the end of the firebox. The design is distinguished by impressive dimensions, but in modern conditions it is sometimes simplified to 2 parts: a cooking chamber and a pipe. As a rule, cracks in the body are the breakdown, therefore oven repair of this type is most often based on the restoration of their integrity. Such situations can be prevented by carrying out preventive repairs, monitoring the condition of the masonry joints and furnace parts.

Breakdowns of the Russian stove

High temperatures lead to the collapse of the brick structure, if there is even a slight violation of the masonry technology. Incorrect operation and wear of parts also lead to repairs. Outwardly, malfunctions can be identified by the following symptoms:

• reduced draft in the chimney;
• cracks appeared in the body due to its expansion during the operation of the furnace;
• cracking of fireclay bricks in the firebox.

A simple repair of a Russian stove can be done on your own if you have at least some building skills. It is important to understand that small, at first glance, amendments can turn into major repairs. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to immediately assess the entire volume of breakdowns. Sometimes during the dismantling of some elements, significant parts of the walls, foundation, chimney fall apart.

Eliminate bad traction

If poor draft is associated with soot sticking, it is necessary to clean the chimney. You can do the work yourself, but you need to stock up on the necessary tools. First, a special brush is used to clean the chimney from the roof. Then they find embedded bricks in different parts of the pipe, pull them out and clean the channels. Instead, cleaning doors may be provided. Mortgage bricks are made slightly protruding. Thanks to this, they are easy to find among other masonry elements.

Also, sealing may be broken due to an open blizzard door. All these factors lead to smoke in the room, so the repair of stoves and fireplaces is first aimed at providing traction. When cleaning the pipe, the garbage will fall into a special niche under the pipe, from which it will be swept out and cleaned. If the draft has not improved, it means that the sealing is broken due to the cleaning door not tightly closed or the embedded brick not retracted.

Sealing, replacement of the furnace door

Do not let the door close tightly combustion chamber. A gap of even a few millimeters must be eliminated. For such repairs, a solution is prepared from refractory clay and asbestos powder (or from clay, cement and sand). The grooves around the perimeter are cleaned and filled with mortar. If the gap is wide, it is filled with a ceramic cord and a mixture.

Sometimes the firebox door requires complete replacement. In this case, it is necessary to replace the brickwork around its perimeter. Disassembly starts from the top horizontal row. They break up no more than 3 rows, and in vertical masonry they break up in the 1st row. Then a new brickwork is made using a heat-resistant mixture. This type repair refers to the capital, so it must be done by a master with experience.

Case slot repair

The walls of the hull expand from heat, and cracks in the seams may appear from the pressure of a heavy vault. They need to be covered up, and you can do it yourself, without calling the master. It is important to mix the solution correctly so that it does not crumble the very next day after the firebox has been in operation.

The mixture can be made independently by mixing fireclay clay with sand in a 1: 1 ratio. You can also use purchased dry refractory mixes, which are based on aluminum oxides. Without additives, they are designed for temperatures up to 900 C. However, the parameters can be increased by adding alumina cement. Then the maximum allowable temperature will be 1200 C, and the use of liquid glass instead of water for kneading increases this figure to 1600 C.

Smearing of cracks is carried out with a solution diluted to a viscous state. Slots immediately before work are moistened with water. Then the solution is applied with a spatula and leveled. The width of the seam can be 5-14 mm, it depends on the composition of the solution. It is important that the expansion coefficients of the mixture and brick match. then the cracks will not appear again during the heating of the furnace.

Installing a stove in a brick oven

At self construction furnace each owner is faced with the installation of special furnace elements.

Installation #8212; very responsible job. But not everyone knows how to do it right. The following article will tell you in detail about installing a good furnace door and all other elements.

Furnace specialized devices include: doors of various purposes, grates and various furnace valves. They are necessary to ensure combustion in the furnace and convenient use of the furnace. Therefore, all furnace elements must be properly installed and serviceable.

Preparation for work

• before starting the installation of the door, it is necessary to check for the strength of its fit to the frame itself, the absence of various distortions, the possibility of good fixation of the closure, the free rotation of the leaf and the presence of appropriate holes for attaching the door to the brickwork of the furnace;
• if any defects are found, they must be removed or the door replaced;
• it is necessary that the valve gate move freely in the grooves and completely close the hole; no cracks are allowed in the frame itself;
• if you plan to heat the stove only with coal, you need to drill a hole 13-18 mm in size in the gate itself.

Installation Features

When installing furnace elements, it must be remembered that various materials, such as brick and any metal, expand in different ways during heating. This applies in particular to appliances installed in high temperature areas. If the masonry is made dense, with a strong increase in temperature, the devices will tear it. That is why they are installed in such a way that during heating, free expansion is possible without endangering the furnace.

How to fix the door in the oven

To do this, you need to lay the grate in the opening with an exact 5 mm gap. During a breakdown, it must be freely removed for replacement. The grate is laid without the use of mortar, the grooves are covered with sand.

Work process

Installation of a high-quality furnace door. This process must be taken with full responsibility and seriousness. It is most exposed to the action of thermal and thermal expansion. Therefore, it should be installed so that the space in the stove overlaps as tightly as possible and the door is securely fastened to the masonry. Such a furnace door is fastened with clamps, which are made of steel.

At the bottom, the door can be fixed with a steel wire having a diameter of 2 mm, subsequently closed with a solution. The top of the door cannot be fixed with wire, as it will burn out from the influence of a very high temperature.

Clamps are made from steel. All ears should look out 10-12 cm beyond the door frame, and they are fastened with special rivets. The lower part of the door can be fixed with a wire about 60 cm long. Before starting to install the door, you need to wrap the frame with asbestos. The material can be used in the form of cord, chips or sheets, wetting with water before use.

At the exact location of the door installation, it is necessary to apply a layer of clay composition to the masonry. When using wire, the ends are hidden in the seams. Be sure to level the installation horizontally and fix it with wooden lath. One end of this rail is placed on the door frame, and the other on three masonry bricks, a brick is placed on top of it. Next, bricks are laid out on the mortar, gradually laying the door in the stove array. Each row starts from the door.

Oven

The oven is usually made of strong steel. Gaps are defined using a level, the frame wraps around sheet asbestos, having a width of half a brick. The plane of the frame at the top should coincide with the surface of the masonry of the last row of bricks, therefore, if necessary, the asbestos layer must be increased.

The grate should be installed 25-30 cm below the furnace opening with a slope towards the furnace door. The hearth of the firebox is given the shape of a trough, and the slots located between the grate should be along the firebox.

So that the grate does not destroy the masonry when heated, it is necessary to leave gaps of 5 mm, which are then covered with sand. It is impossible to fix the grate with the help of mortar!

The blower and, together with it, the cleaning door is installed similarly to the firebox door. The blower door is practically not subject to high temperatures, so it must be tightly and firmly walled up in the stove masonry, processing the seams with clay mortar. The horizontal of the frame is also determined using the level.

Installing a cast iron cooker

Absolutely all plates are installed strictly according to the building level. For installation, it is necessary to carve out a groove in the topmost row, corresponding to the size of the plate and having a gap of 5 mm on each side. It is absolutely impossible to clamp any sides of the plate, since during heating the opposite side will change and mow. You need to use a clay-asbestos solution. They also need to overwrite the entire top of the plate around the entire perimeter.

Do-it-yourself oven repair.

The construction of the furnace in their house is mainly carried out by specialists, in extreme cases, you can do it yourself, if you have any experience and competent drawings.

But anyone can do the repair of the furnace with their own hands. After some time, during the next inspection of the heating source, they noticed problems and realized that it was time to repair the stove with their own hands or some part of it.

Do good repair stoves with their own hands, anyone who has dealt with mortars and bricks can eliminate any shortcomings.

Do-it-yourself oven repair.

A small do-it-yourself stove or fireplace repair involves such work as: replacing burned-out grates, covering up cracks or chips, replacing worn doors, a valve, or individual burnt bricks.

Over time, the masonry of the stove cracks, cracks appear, the mortar from the seams begins to crumble, it is urgent to repair the stove with your own hands. In this case, the gaps should be expanded with a scraper; during the expansion process, the old solution should be removed.

After removing debris and dust, the gap is moistened with water and then covered with a solution. To control the integrity of the furnace, it is whitewashed with lime, the appearance of any crack or through crack will be noticeable on the whitewash in the form of blackness.

Furnace door repair.

After some time, your furnace door loosened, you need to repair the furnace with your own hands using mortar and, if necessary, new bricks. It's time to change the old furnace door to a new one, for this you need to carefully remove it along with the box and the fastening wire.

When repairing the stove with our own hands, first we carefully remove the bricks around the box, also those that do not adhere well to the base, stagger or break off.

If the fastening wire has rotted and fallen off, then it must be replaced with a new one. Most suitable option of the fastening wire for the frame of the furnace door, this should be 3 mm thick.

For good fastening, the wire should be inserted into the hole in the box, then twisted in half, leaving small ends for fastening the frame to the furnace masonry.

So that in the future the wire does not fidget and the door frame does not loosen, its ends should be bent at an angle and placed in the chip of the upper brick. Then the bricks and the place where the door frame stood are cleaned of old mortar, dust, dirt and moistened with water.

When repairing the stove with your own hands, laying the box of the furnace door with a brick, you need to securely fix it in the opening. To do this, the size of the opening for the box is made as accurate as possible, with a minimum gap.

The gap between the oven door frame and the opening for the box should not exceed 2-3 mm, since with frequent opening and closing of the furnace door, with a large gap, the solution may fall out, the door frame will loosen again and you will need to do the oven repair yourself again. After replacing the furnace door, all seams and those with cracks are carefully smeared with mortar.

Furnace repair

If the grate burns out, you should only replace the grate, remove the old one, clean the place and put in a new one. When repairing the furnace with your own hands, replacing the grate, installing a new one in place of the old one, it should be taken into account that the metal expands when heated and contracts when cooled.

When installing a new grate on a cleaned place, you need to leave small gaps and fill them with sand. When repairing the stove with your own hands to replace the grates, you should thoroughly clean the heating source - the furnace

Inside the firebox of a stove or fireplace, to preserve heat, it is laid out with refractory fireclay on the edge, or if you're lucky, you can find an old stove brick that holds heat well. This material, when heated for a long time, can retain heat and provide a normal temperature in the room.

To ensure the smooth operation of the stove or fireplace, it is necessary to occasionally inspect the heating source, inspect the masonry for cracks, aged or burnt bricks or other defects, and if necessary, repair the stove with your own hands - fireboxes.

If such damage is found during the inspection of the furnace, do-it-yourself furnace repair should not be postponed indefinitely. Timely corrected defects in the internal space of the furnace compartment will ensure the preservation of its heat transfer and safe use.

When repairing the furnace masonry importance has any corresponding construction material you are using.

In the furnace compartment, during the combustion of the heating material, a very high temperature is formed, therefore, when repairing the furnace with your own hands, you need to choose the right brand of cement that can withstand high temperatures.

For such repair of the furnace, refractory cement or pyrocement is commercially available. Depending on the damage and for what work the solution is prepared, its density depends.

To fill cracks or crevices, a thick mortar is prepared, if burnt bricks are replaced with new ones, then the mortar needs to be prepared a little thinner. The time for using the solution prepared for repair is one hour.

Hog repair.

Often we forget to inspect the exhaust gas system - hogs in the attic. Violation of its masonry, the formation of cracks or cracks contributes to the smoke of the furnace. The brick in the exhaust gas system may fall off, the mortar may crumble in the seam due to exposure to exhaust gases or climatic conditions.

In this case, you need to do the repair of the furnace with your own hands. provide smoke with an unhindered exit through the exhaust gas system.

To do this, defective seams should be thoroughly cleaned of the old mortar and soot, remove debris and dust, then wetted with water and covered with a thick solution.

For better reliability of the gas exhaust system, the masonry of the damaged area should be shifted again.

No comments yet!

So, last time we examined the general algorithm of work for self-repair of a brick oven and settled on the repair or replacement of furnace doors. It was point 4.2. It should be noted that almost all problems with furnace doors are rarely independent and, as a rule, they are accompanied by a complex of problems: problems with brickwork around the furnace door, destruction and cracking of bricks, chipping and destruction of seams.

Often, these bricks are either completely or partially destroyed and also require replacement. Therefore, at first, before installing a new or replacing old door you will need to replace the bricks. How to do it? It depends on the way you choose to install the door. There are several methods that are discussed in detail in various sources, I will only briefly describe them: the first method is classic and very common - on a wire. In the photo below, this wire is clearly visible, I will only note that here I captured the process of dismantling the old door and partially dismantling the masonry

For best results, I use nichrome wire - nichrome. This is the X10H80 steel grade. It has good plasticity and heat resistance. As practice shows, such a wire "stands" in furnaces for decades without any problems. In its absence, you can (?) Use other steels, but I strongly do not recommend this. In my practice, when repairing old furnaces, I even met furnace doors fixed on copper wire. The process itself: a wire with a diameter smaller (two to three times, approximately) is attached to the door frame than the thickness of the masonry joints of your furnace. The vast majority of furnace doors already have holes for attaching the wire. However, if you suddenly come across a door frame without holes or you find the factory location inconvenient, this is not a problem. Cast iron generally lends itself very well machining. You can drill the holes you need with standard metal drill bits - usually with HSS tips. Do not forget to cool the drill in emulsion (oil) - this way it will last much longer. The obvious disadvantage of this method of installing doors and other cast-iron fittings is the high labor intensity: you need to brick the wire in tension into the masonry for a sufficient length. Each case is individual, but as a rule, this must be done no less than two bricks in length. And this is already a very large area of ​​\u200b\u200bmasonry for a bulkhead, given that you will also have to replace the rows from above.

More advanced methods of installing furnace doors involve the use of stainless steel sheet, or cut with special plates with a flange, which will keep the door hooked on the masonry and subsequently these plates are screwed with self-tapping screws in advance drilled holes, or on a one-piece shell pre-fabricated and installed on the door frame. In the second case, the thickness of the stainless sheet is less than in the case of installation on plates. For the greatest reliability, it is possible to combine one of the latter methods with the first. The first method, using wire, and the second, using a shell, involve a partial but significant disassembly of the masonry and possibly preparation by sawing bricks into pieces to the required size. This means that a door, for example with a stainless shell, is inserted into the masonry opening - accordingly, this is done by moving it from top to bottom and you need space from above, since four shell planes have already been bent beforehand. Do not forget to place between the stainless steel and the brickwork, on all adjoining planes, a thermally insulating fireproof material (silica fiber or the like). It is needed not only to protect against high temperatures, but also to ensure damping of the cyclic linear expansions of the metal when heated. There is also a way to install the door only on self-tapping screws (or bolts), but personally I categorically do not recognize it, assuming its extremely low reliability. From general recommendations it is worth noting that tight installation of the door into the masonry and sealing the cracks with clay-sand mortar should be avoided - the fact is that the door heats up both strongly and quickly, due to high thermal conductivity, therefore, when expanding, it can damage the brick, leading to its cracking and destruction of masonry joints. Sealing such gaps should be done with non-rigid refractory, which I described in the first part of this article. In any case, when manipulating the masonry, one should be careful and remember that ligation of the common array, due to which it is held due to the distribution of the load, is not a panacea and collapse is possible, therefore, excavation of bricks to be replaced must be done with caution, in some cases by installing props and other assistive devices. I sometimes use a simple car jack and a few planks, but this is already in the category of little tricks.

I was a little carried away by the story of plumbing and unfairly deprived of attention to the skill of a bricklayer. Here are some important tips and tricks:

In general, when replacing doors and other fittings, you will have a relatively small amount of masonry work, but no less responsible. Follow all necessary and known recommendations for the selection and preparation of material. Laying must be carried out with dressing - that is, the vertical seams of vertically adjacent rows should not be on top of each other, here is an example in the picture.

Even a primitive or not quite neat “castle” made of bricks over a doorway is better than just masonry. And it is not at all permissible to leave the brick entirely hanging over the opening, for example, on some kind of metal plate. Like in this image:

Good advice - take advantage!

When you are producing partial renovation furnace, with its dismantling individual elements, as a rule, it is possible to clean it hard-to-reach places. This opportunity must be used. So, in the case of removing either the door or the hob, the high zone and the space after it become available to you. Khailo is a hole in the firebox through which flue gases escape. In practice, it has been noticed that in the zone after the hail, on horizontal surfaces, a fairly large amount of ash accumulates. It can be easily removed by hand, using an improvised tool.

Replacement, installation of other furnace fittings, such as blower and cleaning doors, is a much simpler operation, with the exception, perhaps, of replacement various kinds valves, however, a separate article will be devoted to this very difficult issue.

4.3. Firebox repair. One of the most vulnerable and responsible places in the furnace - after all, it is there that the combustion of fuel occurs and it is there that the bricks are subject to the greatest thermal loads, therefore it is not surprising that they are destroyed first of all, especially if the firebox is not lined with refractory bricks and is made of ordinary, "red » kiln bricks. This is an even more complex and responsible type of repair. It’s good if you are repairing a “Swede” (a heating stove with cast-iron flooring) and have the opportunity to freely replace old bricks with new ones. The situation is much more difficult for heating furnace(the “Dutch” stove (golanka, galanka, gulanka and other variations of the name, from which my ears curl into a tube ...), the firebox of which does not have a “visible end” in height and most likely it is based on some constructive convective system of the furnace in the form of a chamber afterburner, bread chamber and / or smoke box or just a system of channels - as is most often the case. plain language It's just a heating stove. Sometimes they are called - a column. Note that this furnace, this "column" can be not only square in perimeter, but also rectangular. It directly depends on what kind of room this stove heats. So, if you decide to do an independent repair of the firebox, I categorically do not recommend doing this without insurance - a partner. Please follow the safety and security precautions. A furnace, especially an aged one, can bring many unpleasant surprises and the visible strength of the outer surface of the masonry can really only be visible. In addition, masonry refractory mortars do not always make it easy to remove bricks, many of them are sintered, turning the firebox or part of the bricks into a single whole. Therefore, not as self-promotion, but solely assuming good intentions, I would advise you to trust this type of repair to professionals, and even better, to the stove-maker who built this stove for you. All this equally applies to the repair of the roof of the Russian stove, which is part of its firebox and has the highest complexity in terms of repair, since the laws of dressing and load distribution work there differently than in simple vertical brickwork. In simpler terms, the vault can collapse, fold like a house of cards, even if a single brick or even a piece of it or the remains of a burned-out brick is removed from it. In the general case, the repair of a firebox is the replacement of bricks. The scale of such repairs is purely individual, depends on the quality source materials, the professionalism of the stove-maker who built and subsequently repaired the stove. Very often, it is on the basis of the critical wear of the firebox that one has to make a decision on the complete dismantling of the furnace.

Installation and fastening of stove appliances

But usually, everything can be repaired and restored. If the firebox was not lined, then burnt and collapsed bricks are replaced and, if necessary, lining is made, for example, as in this photo (this is the same furnace as in the first photo), or the old lining is simply changed, if it was provided.

In this case, bricks of the ShA-6 brand were used for lining. These bricks will protect the red, non-refractory bricks of the furnace wall and slightly increase the heat capacity. Unfortunately, they will also somewhat reduce the volume of the firebox, but this sacrifice is forced and the negative effect of it is much less than the destruction of the bearing wall of the furnace. Also, this problem is solved quite easily - with one, two additional poles during the firebox. There are other options for protecting the firebox, but I will talk about them next time, at the beginning of the next article. Stay tuned for updates on the site!

Making oven appliances with your own hands

(From blower to wind vane)

Not only fireplace dampers, but also other stove appliances and fittings - doors, valves, an oven, and even a stove and a grate, if desired, can be made by yourself or ordered in a locksmith's workshop.

Stove Experienced stove-makers are advised to cut out the required sizes by gas welding from sheet steel with a thickness of 10-12 mm. Then trim the edges with an angle grinder. And you don't need to make burners. Such a plate, unlike cast iron, will never crack. A large thickness will not allow it to warp. On a well-heated stove and without burners, the temperature is quite sufficient for cooking. And open burners, according to housewives, only pollute kitchen utensils with soot.

Installation of a homemade valve in the masonry. A frame made of thick wire does not break the clay masonry seam.

Rice. 1. Gate valve and guide frame.

gate valves(Fig. 1) any size can be cut out of sheet steel with a thickness of 4-5 mm. The guide frames for them are bent from steel wire to dia. 6 mm according to the given drawings.

Furnace masonry

On fig. 1 gives dimensions for a chimney damper with a section of 250 × 130 mm.

By the way, for purchased valves in bricks, you need to make special grooves, driving them out with a pickaxe hammer or
cutting out the "Bulgarian". And when installing a homemade valve, this time-consuming operation is not needed.

Fig.2. Grate.

grate(Fig. 2) can be made from sections of a bar with a diameter of at least 12 mm, laying between them M8 nuts or washers with a thickness of at least 6 mm with holes of dia. 7 mm. At the ends of each bar at a distance of 12 mm from the edge drill holes dia. 6.5 mm. Then the rods with washers are put on two nails dia. 6 mm, 200 mm long and riveted from the side of the tip. To facilitate riveting, it is desirable to chop off the sharp ends of the nails or blunt them with emery. The length of the rods is selected locally. At the same time, it must be remembered that when installing the grate in the oven, there should be a gap of approximately 5 mm between this grate and the masonry for thermal expansion.

Instead of a blower door in small stoves and fireplaces, in some cases it is more expedient to use an ash box made in the form of a scoop (Fig. 3). The body is cut out of sheet steel with a thickness of 0.6-1 mm. Along the lines shown in Fig. 3 strokes, bend the sides and edges. Drill holes for rivets. First, the body is riveted, then the front wall is riveted to it, the top of which is folded along the fold lines, making a convenient wide handle.

Rice. 3. Ash box.

The ash box should enter the blower so that its front wall tightly covers the blower hole.

With the help of this device, you can easily remove the ash accumulated in the blower with one movement.

In terms of fire safety, an ash box is also preferable to a door. After all, with an increase in air access, only the top of the blower opens, while the bottom remains closed and burning coals cannot fall out of the blower onto the floor.

Rice. 4. Wind vane.

The weather vane not only decorates the head of the pipe, but also protects the chimney from precipitation, and also prevents the draft from “overturning” in windy weather.

To protect against the ingress of atmospheric precipitation into the pipe, as well as to prevent the draft from “overturning” in windy weather, a so-called weather vane or smoke cap is installed on the pipe. On fig. 4 shows how to make a wind vane for a pipe with chimney dimensions of 130 × 130 mm (in a quadruple).

For the manufacture of a weather vane, a sheet of galvanized roofing steel with dimensions of 580 × 1000 mm is taken. Draw an axial line and mark the fold line of the petals 100 mm from the edges (see Fig. 4, fragment I). From the axial on both sides on the fold line, points are laid at a distance of 50 mm. Then, from these points to the axial on the fold line, 30 mm are laid. On the edge of the sheet from the axial lay 70 mm. Connecting the obtained points with lines as shown in Fig. 4 receive the markup of all the petals. For beauty and to reduce the sail of the wind vane, holes can be punched in large petals by cutting. It remains to cut the petals along the marked lines and bend - small inward, large - outward at an angle of 90 °. Make holes for fastening and bend the sidewall at an angle of 90 °. Now, in order to get a beautiful bend, it is necessary to thread the annealed steel wire into the mounting holes and pull the sidewalls with it to a distance of 380 mm between them. The flask is ready. Install it on the chimney head parallel to the roof ridge and on cement mortar a number of bricks are laid inside.

The most difficult to manufacture in a handicraft way are ovens and doors. In the table below, to unify the drawings and facilitate calculations, the main dimensions of the openings in the brickwork for the frames of various doors are given.

Rice. 5. Oven.

Rice. 6. Shoe-box. Rice. 7. (upper) Version of a welded door with a steel angle frame. The loop bushings are machined onto lathe. Rice. 8. (right) Sheet steel door variant.

The oven (Fig. 5) is usually made of roofing steel with rivets or welding. Doors for oven it is better to make double-leaf, as shown in fig. 5. To avoid warping, corners are riveted or spot-welded to the oven walls at a distance of a multiple of 70 mm so that the corner shelf is at the level of the horizontal masonry seam. From the inside, corners can also be riveted or welded to the side walls of the oven to install a baking sheet, tray or grill.

To facilitate the cleaning of the furnace, a cleaning box is installed in the masonry (Fig. 6), which is usually made of thin roofing steel. It is easier to perform than a door, and tighter. Cleaning includes a body in which a box with a handle is tightly inserted. Sometimes a piece of brick on clay mortar is placed inside the box.

Doors can be made in two versions - welded with a frame of steel corners (Fig. 7) and riveted, made entirely of sheet steel (Fig. 8). Both options are shown in the figures below. For the furnace door, it is necessary to use thicker metal, while thin steel will quickly burn out. The blower door is less susceptible to high temperatures, so it can be made from relatively thin metal.

Folding the oven is one thing, but installing additional structural elements- this is an equally important part in the construction of the furnace. This work is very painstaking, does not allow any errors or inaccuracies, and few people know how it is carried out. This article aims to explain all the main points and options for installing a door in a brick oven.

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The mandatory elements of the furnace include valves, grates and, of course, a door that is needed to put fuel into the furnace, regulates combustion and prevents firebrands from falling out of the furnace.

Installing the oven door

Preparation includes the following necessary steps:

• Before the installation itself, it is necessary to examine in detail the door itself and the mounting frame (de facto we take that the door has already been made to the required dimensions). Cracks, distortions of the door and frame are unacceptable, its plane must be flat and fit snugly not only in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lock, but also over the entire area of ​​​​contact with the frame;
• If an unsatisfactory condition is found, the door is replaced or, if possible, defects are eliminated;
• The door itself must move freely in the fasteners. Easy closing-opening should be carried out;
• If the stove is made only for coal, then a hole is drilled in the door - 13 mm. in diameter. This hole will be an outlet for gases generated during the combustion of anthracite.

The door is exposed to the greatest impact during operation of the furnace. It bears on itself mechanical loadings, and also the strengthened thermal. In order for the valve to last as long as possible, the following instructions for each mounting option must be observed.

on nichrome wire

Nichrome has proven itself in solving this issue due to its increased resistance to heat and at the same time retaining its plasticity in the form of a wire. Such fastening with a guarantee will serve 20 years. How to fix the door to a brick oven:

The main disadvantage of this method is that the wire must be kept taut and gradually embedded in the seam between the bricks. The length of the wire is one and a half to two bricks. The whole process is very labor intensive.

For stainless steel construction

Installing the furnace door of a brick oven by this method is the most common. The frame is a design that is the same as the door in terms of geometric dimensions, but the frame plates have special flanges. They are made from a corner, one side of which fits into the distance between the bricks, into the masonry. Then everything is smeared with a solution.

The method of how to correctly insert the door into the oven on a profile corner can be combined with the first one - on a wire, in which case the fasteners will be both reliable and durable.

For self-tapping screws or bolts

This method has a place to be, but among stove-makers it is the least common and reliable. The fact is that the design of the frame and the door itself is very heavy, especially if it is made of cast iron. This method is applicable in the question of how to fix the chimney door in the oven, and not for the firebox.

The door and masonry should have a small buffer, since heating the frame in contact with the brick will lead to its curvature, as well as damage to the self-tapping screws - they can bend and crawl out of the screwing point. In this case, the door will mutually move away from the masonry.

Features of installing a door in a metal furnace

The main feature is that the same metal materials are used. It is advisable to choose exactly the same material for the door as for the stove. Most often it is steel with a carbon content of 0.06%, the use of cast iron is also relevant.

In this case, the door is mounted without a frame on simple hinges. The main thing is their constructive reliability.

Each owner of a brick oven will independently choose options for installing doors. But priority is the installation methods on nichrome wire or using metal structures. These methods guarantee durability and reliability.

DIY construction home oven involves the use of special elements that make up this heating structure. Installing the furnace door of a brick oven is a crucial step. Therefore, you need to know about possible ways fixing this oven appliance.

• cast iron;
• steel;
• with built-in glass.

The first option is the most widely used, since it best matches such an indicator as price / quality. Stainless steel stove elements are mainly installed in rooms where there is contact with water, for example, in baths. As for the doors with glass, they can be advised to those who like to watch the fire.

Before proceeding with the installation of the stove appliance in the masonry, it is necessary to check how easily it opens so that there are no problems after installation. There are situations when the door opens tightly even before installation, but during the operation of the heating structure it is developed. If we consider most of the stoves that are installed in village houses, then the door elements in them do not have asbestos gaskets. Today, this material is used in industrial furnaces where it is needed for high temperature resistance.

Since we are talking about installing a stove appliance in home stoves, the temperature in them is not so high, and the door frame itself is located at a distance from direct fire. In this case, installation on asbestos can be omitted. Some craftsmen during construction heating structures those that use coal as fuel do without asbestos, and the door is installed with wire. For a guarantee, holes can be drilled in the frame of the oven device closer to the edge. There are several ways to install a firebox door.

The first way - we mount the furnace door on the wire

When choosing this installation option, it is important to choose a wire that will not burn out during the operation of the furnace. Preference in most cases is given to nichrome. This material is resistant to fire and is plastic, so it will last a long time. The wire is threaded into the holes in the door designed for this. If they are missing, then drilling them will not be difficult. The diameter of the material is chosen based on the thickness of the masonry joint (2-3 times less).

To ensure better fixing of the wire during the installation of the furnace device, place it at an angle to the applied force. This will prevent the door from falling out when opened. As for the length of the wire, it should be at least 2 brick thicknesses, i.e. 130 mm. The disadvantage of this method of installing the door is that in the case of replacing furnace fittings, it will be necessary to disassemble the brickwork, since most of the wire is in it.

The wire, after being threaded into the hole, is folded in half and twisted, avoiding the formation of rings. To fix it, it is pulled and inserted into the prepared chip in the edge of the brick (5-10 mm deep) to avoid weakening and slipping. The door is installed on the mortar, after which the ends of the wire are bred on the walls of the furnace, and the other ends are placed on three bricks and pressed in the upper part with several bricks.

The second way is to mount the door on stainless steel plates

This option for installing the door is considered more preferable. In most cases, the mounting element is a flanged plate. Without fail, a material resistant to high temperatures, such as asbestos tape, is laid between the stainless strip for fixing the cast-iron door and the brickwork of the furnace. After installation, it will serve not only as protection against high temperatures, but also provide compensation for the expansion of the metal during the heating process. In other words, when the metal is heated, the masonry will not collapse.

Flared stainless plates hold the door in place by engaging the brickwork. Installation of such elements is carried out using self-tapping screws, holes for which are drilled in advance. You can also fix the furnace door with the help of a one-piece shell, which is installed on the frame of the furnace device. The metal sheet in this case should be smaller in thickness than when using plates. To perform the fastening with maximum reliability, it is recommended to install the part on a metal strip together with the use of wire.

The third way is to fasten the furnace door to bolts or self-tapping screws

Mounting the furnace door of a brick oven using self-tapping screws or bolts is considered the fastest and at the same time unreliable. The installation process consists in screwing the door into the prepared holes in the masonry. This method is not the best for both a cast-iron appliance and a steel or glass one. You can not install the door close to the masonry, because when the part is heated, the masonry will gradually collapse.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZtCG3tzX5E

The listed methods for installing a stove appliance can be used not only when laying a stove from scratch, but also when repairing an old one. Which option to opt for depends both on personal preferences, improvised materials, and on experience in the furnace business. The best way is that the door can be easily dismantled if necessary.

As for the choice of a furnace appliance, first of all, it should be borne in mind that this part is not only fire protection, that is, it ensures safety, but also allows you to control the combustion process. In addition, it should look beautiful, be appropriate in a particular room. Only in this case, its installation will provide warmth and comfort in the house.