Partial renovation of ceramic tiles on the floor. Repair of floors from a ceramic tile. Restoration without removal: workflow

Sometimes a situation may arise when it is necessary to replace a damaged tiles or even an entire area of ​​tiled flooring. Such cases are possible if, for example, the installation was incorrectly performed. floor tiles, when laying, low-quality materials were used or the tile on the floor was subjected to some kind of mechanical stress, which led to the destruction of individual tiles. Finally, tiles can simply wear out and lose their aesthetic appearance.

In any case, there is nothing wrong with that. To put in order the tiled floor does not require a major overhaul with a large investment of effort, money and patience. It is enough just to replace with new tiles that have become unusable, and you can do it yourself. However, in order not to repeat such operations in the future, due to unintentional errors, this must be done with high quality.

Preparing to repair a tiled floor

Before embarking on an independent repair of a tiled floor, carefully study this issue, in terms of available modern materials and technology, as well as your ability to master necessary tools and skills in various types work on home repair. As for the tool, there is an alternative to interchangeability (for example, if you do not have a tile cutter, you can use a glass cutter or just a sharp nail), and skills can be acquired by practicing on suitable areas of the floor with materials from industrial waste.

Assessment of the situation

First of all, it is necessary to assess the condition of the tiled floor, your desires and possibilities in the proposed order:

1. The nature of the damage:
   chips and scratches on the surface of the tile or in the corners;
   peeled tiles;
   destruction (unattractive appearance or severe pollution) of the tile joint (grout);
   destruction (violation of integrity) of the tile;
   
2. Degree of damage:
   small, medium or deep scratches or chips;
   damage that may lead to peeling off adjacent tiles;
   no damage (cosmetic replacement of the color of the joint or tile).
3. The size of the damage area (the number of tile tiles that have become unusable):
   one tile;
   several tiles;
   tile joint (grout) near one or more tiles;
   full or partial cosmetic replacement of the color of a joint or tile.
4. Type of repair required:
   repair of a scratch or chip of an individual tile;
   repair of the seam (replacement of grout);
   tile replacement;
   cosmetic replacement of the color of the seam or tile;
   floor repair in the bathroom, kitchen or other room (everywhere has its own characteristics);
   tile tile repair warm floors, on wooden floor(technology may also differ).
5. Resources available for repairs:
   available required amount tiles for replacement (always try to purchase tiles with a margin, for such cases);
   insufficient number of tiles for replacement (it will be necessary to clarify what is the current price for a tile and purchase, taking into account the paragraph above, its additional quantity);
   out of stock tiles for replacement (think about the issue design solution on the use of a different invoice or to purchase the same tile, if there is one on sale, taking into account the required size of the tile);
   the necessary texture of the tile for replacement is not on sale (if you try hard and the quantity for replacement is small, you can carefully remove the tile from the areas under the furniture or in other places out of sight, and replace it there with a suitable size).

Necessary tools and materials

So that self-repair of a tiled floor, in addition to resources, does not take away your additional efforts, prepare everything you need in advance in accordance with the following list:

• the required amount of appropriate texture tiles;
• cement;
• water;
• containers for preparing the necessary mixtures;
• a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle for mixing solutions of mixtures (or a regular rail for mixing a small amount of compositions);
• special glue for tiles or liquid nails;
• grout, primer and antiseptic;
• if necessary, tile paint;
• if sealing is intended, silicone sealant;
• a set of crosses or SVP (tile leveling system);
• the required size of metal and rubber spatulas, trowel;
• tape measure, iron ruler, simple pencil and building level;
• perforator;
• grinder or jigsaw for cutting tiles;
• hammer;
• chisel, chisel, chisel and special nozzles for a puncher for removing tiles;
• devices for cutting tiles (glass cutter or tile cutter, grinder or jigsaw);
• a tool for removing old grout from tile joints (for more details, see the section on repairing tile joints);
• safety goggles and gloves.

Here is the maximum list of materials and tools for working with tiles when repairing a tiled floor. However, the list needs to be adjusted, taking into account the volume and type of work to be done, as well as the existing skills in handling various tools, the availability of the tools themselves and the possibility of their interchangeability.

Performing tiled floor repairs

Repair of chips and scratches

In order to eliminate such a tile defect as a chip or scratch, follow these steps:

1. Prepare a solution of cement and water (use the prepared container and a device for mixing the mixture) for which:
   use water only at room temperature;
   keep the temperature in the room where the work is being carried out within 18-25 ° C;
   pouring cement into a container with water, stir the mixture with the prepared device (so that lumps do not form in the mixture, in no case do not pour water into the cement, but pour the cement into the water);
   check the desired consistency of the mixture with a trowel or spatula (the mixture should not drain from the trowel, but be plastic and hold on to it).
2. Rub the solution into the crack or chip using a small piece of soft cloth.
3. Wait for the solution to dry and evaluate the result.
4. If the crack or chip is not completely filled, repeat the operation.
5. Remove excess mixture from the tile surface.
6. After the crack or chip is completely filled with the mixture, carefully apply paint of the appropriate color to the completely dry area of ​​\u200b\u200bdamage (try to avoid getting paint on the intact surface of the tile, otherwise the repair will be visible).

Bonding peeled tiles

If the tile just peeled off, but remained intact, then return it to the desired state by performing the following steps in sequence:

1. Using a chisel and an iron spatula (or other suitable tool), loosen the peeled tiles from the lining along the edges and clean the seams (be careful not to damage adjacent tiles, the technology is described in detail in the repair of tile joints section).
2. Prying with a suitable tool, remove the peeled off tile.
3. Clean the inner surface of the removed tile from the remnants of the old mortar (use a spatula and a chisel, after soaking the remnants of the old mortar in water).
4. Make a screed 1 mm thick on the repaired area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor cleaned from the old mortar and grout.
5. Degrease and prime the surface (you can additionally treat the surface with an antiseptic).
6. Moisten the tile with water (if you are not using a cement base, leave the tile and floor surfaces dry).
7. Apply the tile adhesive prepared according to the instructions on the package to the inside surface of the tile (adhesive layer is selected taking into account alignment with the general level of the floor surface) using a notched trowel.
8. Carefully insert the tile with the adhesive into its original place and press it well to evenly distribute the adhesive under the tile.
9. Check the building level for evenness of the resulting surface.
10. Remove excess adhesive around the perimeter of the tile to be glued.
11. Fix the tile gaps with crosses or SVPs.
12. After 5 hours, remove the fixing plastic crosses (or SVPs) from the tile joints.
13. After the facing is completely dry (from 1 to 3 days), fill the gaps between the tiles with grout prepared according to the instructions on the package (the process will be described in more detail below in the section on repairing tile joints);
14. If the tile has been changed in the bathroom or in a room where sealing of the joints is necessary, then use silicone sealant for this. The sealant will protect the tile and tile joint from moisture penetration, which can harm them. In addition, the sealant is also used to seal the gaps between the tile and the bathroom or other plumbing.

If it is necessary to glue the areas adjacent to the tiled floor tiles to be glued, the actions are repeated.

Replacing broken tile

In many ways, the process of replacing a tile that has become unusable with a new one repeats the one described above when regluing a peeled tile. Therefore, in this part we will consider only those actions that have not been described earlier. This action will be the removal of damaged tiles. To do this correctly, use the following tips:

1. Do not remove the old tiles from the ends, otherwise you risk damaging the neighboring ones.
2. In order to safely remove the one that requires replacement for neighboring tiles, it is advisable to destroy the tile with a hammer in its central part through the fabric.
3. From the center of the tile to its edge, slowly, in small fragments, with the help of a chisel (chisel) and a hammer, continue further destruction of the tile.
4. Stroke the surface of the tile with the tip of a chisel or chisel from above, and not obliquely.
5. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove remaining fine particles and cement dust.

Repair or replacement of tile grout

Poor-quality material for grouting joints between tiles, violation of the grouting technology or mixture preparation, as well as mechanical effects on the inter-tile filling lead to its resolution. In addition, in rooms with high humidity, cracks may appear on the seams. dark spots mold.

To correct such flaws, you can partially or completely replace the old grout with a new one. To do this, follow these steps in order:

1. Remove old grout. Be very careful and careful not to damage the whole tile. Be especially careful when working around the corners of the tiles. The corners of tiles are very sensitive to mechanical stress and can break off. To remove use:
   a special tool - a seam opener (pass along the seam, directing the blade straight and at an angle on both sides) or;
   any sharpened tool, using it in the same way as a joint opener (trowel, awl, screwdriver, chisel, knife, etc.) or;
   scraper (electric or manual);
   if the putty is very old and firmly held between the tiles, a drill with a drill of the appropriate thickness (smaller in diameter than the distance between the tiles), a dremel with a special nozzle (engraver, drill, mini-drill, etc. - the group is right grinders), electric chisel or grinder.
   In addition, there are non-mechanical methods:
   a solution of vinegar and water, in a ratio of 1: 2 - is used to soften the seams (applied with a soft cloth for at least 20 minutes);
   citric acid solution to remove latex or cement mixture;
   a special solvent for removing the epoxy mixture (read the instructions for its use very carefully so as not to damage the surface of the tile).
2. Clean the seams of dust and small particles with a vacuum cleaner.
3. Treat the cleaned inter-tile space with an antiseptic.
4. Prepare the grout mixture (mix the grout in the proportions and according to the technology contained in the instructions for use on the grout package).
5. Moisten the seams with a little water (use a spray bottle or a regular paint brush).
6. By using rubber spatula fill the space between the tiles with grout.
7. Remove excess mixture from the tile surface using the same rubber spatula and sponge (or soft cloth).
8. Eliminate uneven seams with a sponge (soft cloth or viscose cloth) dipped in water.
9. Wait for the grout to dry completely.
10. Evaluate the work and, if necessary, eliminate the shortcomings using the technology described above.

In order to restore ceramic tiles with your own hands during repairs, you do not need to be a professional builder. It is enough to understand a little about building materials and have certain skills in working with the appropriate tool.

Regardless of the degree of security, that is, it is a closed area or an open one, previously laid tiles, for various reasons, partially or completely become unusable, and then its overhaul is almost inevitable.

And such reasons that led to the restoration ceramic tiles, exist, and there are many of them. Here is just a small part:

1. The preparatory work was carried out very badly, if not carried out at all.
2. The preparation of the adhesive composition based on dry building mixtures and materials occurred in violation of the requirements of the instructions attached to them, and they themselves were of poor quality.
3. The technological process prescribed for the installation of ceramic coating was not fully observed.
4. Improper operation and barbaric handling, resulting in chips, cracks, scratches.
5. Violation of tightness at the junction of the tile with the base, and as a result - the appearance of water, followed by the destruction of the adhesive layer.
6. Temperature fluctuations, excess moisture.

All this negatively affects the ceramic coating. Over time, stains, stains, chips and cracks appear on it. Tiles burst in places, crumble, and also fall off the base in separate pieces or even entirely.

Of course, in such cases it is necessary to repair the tile, and for each damage there is a way to eliminate it. It is required to consider the most common flaws and options for their elimination.

The algorithm of the work is quite simple:

1. Chips, cracks and scratches on ceramic tiles must be repaired with cement milk. It is not difficult to prepare it: cement is poured into a container with water and everything is mixed until the mixture acquires the consistency of liquid sour cream. The ratio of water and powder is not regulated and is selected empirically. It should be noted that there is no sand or other filler in it.
2. With a piece of cloth, the solution is rubbed into the damaged area, and after it dries, the procedure is repeated. This operation continues until the complete disappearance of the defect. And in order for the mixture to acquire the necessary hardness, it is necessary for some time (2-3 days) to periodically moisten the treated area with water. After that, if necessary, the area is carefully painted over with paint matched to the color of the tile.

And for such purposes, you can use the grout mixture, choosing it by color and texture, or resort to decorative self-adhesive stickers.

How to patch holes in tiles? Similarly, only cement laitance needs to be made thicker by changing the proportional composition of water and cement.

In this case, the technology is as follows:

1. If one or more tiles have peeled off the surface, but at the same time the integrity of both the tile and the base is beyond doubt, you must first carefully remove the tiles, and then remove them from everywhere where the remnants of the old glue have been preserved.
2. Next, thoroughly clean the surface of dirt and dust, having previously deepened it by several millimeters, coat it with a primer, dry it, and only then fill it with fresh adhesive. It is important to ensure that the glue, even if in a larger volume - the excess will still be squeezed out when laying the tiles - is distributed in the corners. This will protect against the appearance of air voids.
3. Then, with a notched trowel, the adhesive mixture is evenly distributed over the entire area, grooves are made in it, which are located at the same level and have the same height.
4. Now the tiles can be laid in their original place. It is important that they do not stand out from other tiles in any way, for which you should use the building level. If necessary, glue is added or removed under their base.

However, not only tile adhesive is used to attach tiles to the base. To do this, you can use silicone sealant white color, liquid glass in combination with tooth powder, cement mortar (least welcome).

The tile tightly "clung" to the base

Repair of tiles on the floor must be done, even if it is quite firmly attached to the surface. How to take it off? Depending on its future fate, the following options are possible:

• old tiles can be used for their intended purpose;
• the resulting damage does not allow it to be reinstalled.

The initial steps in both cases are identical. In order not to damage neighboring good specimens, you need a thin drill, worked out diamond disc, with a hacksaw blade for metal or with the same emery wheel, embroider the seams with the old grout. However, the efficiency of this manual work is already very low, especially if the initial laying was carried out more than one month ago. Therefore, it is better to use a grinder with the same cutting disc previously inserted into it.

In the first option, an ordinary trowel is placed under the base of the tile on the end and knocked out with light blows of the hammer, gradually shifting along its entire length on one side. By changing the sound, one can judge the beginning of its departure from the base. Gradually, the trowel is brought under the tile, which begins to vibrate, further and further, until it is finally released.

The second option provides otherwise: a hole of large diameter is drilled in the center of the damaged tile. A chisel, chisel or chisel is inserted into it, and under the blows of the hammer, the desired element is split into pieces.

Other important points

Necessary repair work is also carried out when a fungus penetrates into the grout, from which it (the grout) becomes moldy and takes on an unpresentable appearance. In addition, this procedure is required for complete or partial shedding. In such cases, the grout should be completely changed, otherwise the repaired area will stand out noticeably against the general background. With a grinder or other auxiliary items, which is less effective, the old seams between the tiles are cleaned, and then, with the help of a rubber spatula, the fresh composition is again rubbed there.

Care must be taken of ceramic tiles. This concept includes not only the daily sweeping of debris (floor tiles) and wiping with a dry soft cloth (wall ceramics) or, in more serious cases, the use detergents, but also the return of the original form. For these purposes, various preparations, special impregnations and detergents are used.

And you can also paint the tile or apply the original pattern to the surface, having previously cleaned and polished it.

To repair tile floors, you need the following:

• tools - a puncher with an emery wheel for metal, a hammer, a chisel or a chisel, notched, metal and rubber spatulas, a paint brush, a trowel, concrete drills, a building level;
• building materials - cement, dry tile adhesive, grout, acrylic paint, primer, repair tiles.

It must be remembered that not only the repair of ceramic tiles requires constant attention, accuracy and patience. In exactly the same words, you can confidently speak about the care of ceramic tiles. These concepts are inseparable from each other. And everyone can do them. A little skill, skill - and success is guaranteed.

If tiles are damaged on the floor, one or more, it is not at all necessary to start overhaul. Replacing cracked tiles with new ones is a simple process and there is even no need to involve a specialist for this. Of course, provided that when repairing tiles on the floor on your own, you need to do it correctly and exercise maximum caution and accuracy.

Ceramic tile flooring is particularly durable and practical. It is easy to clean, sterilize and, one might say, practically does not wear out. It would seem that all these characteristics are in conflict with such a concept as "repair". But it turns out that all abrasion-resistant coatings have in common weakness- fragility. From impact or deformation, cracks form on the surface. What do they do in such cases?

Tile laying rules

In most cases, the occurrence of defects in the tile coating is associated with improper installation. Having chosen the optimal laying formula (in rows, diagonally or otherwise), you need to prepare the surface of the subfloor.

If necessary, the plane is leveled with the help of special building mixtures. Since the screed can expand during the temperature difference, it must contain steel reinforcement. Usually this metal grid located at a depth of 2/3 of the fill floor.

After the preparatory work, when laying the tiled floor, certain rules and recommendations should be followed.

• There should be some distance between the tiles - 1-3 mm. After installation, it is filled with a special putty.
• The adhesive layer is evenly distributed over the surface of the subfloor. It is best to use a special notched trowel for this. In no case should tiles be installed only at 5 points - this will lead to the formation of voids. According to technology, their volume should not exceed 10% of the total.
• The alignment clamp should be applied evenly. In this case, excess glue should not be squeezed out of the tile.

By following these rules, you can minimize the likelihood of defects or damage even at the laying stage. But even in this case, there are objective factors, after which it is necessary to repair the tiled floor.

Causes of Defects

They can be divided into two groups - non-compliance with the installation technology or violation of the rules of operation. The consequences are expressed in the deformation of the surface of the tile, changing the location individual elements about the overall picture. Consider the most common cases of defects.

• Cracks. Most often this is a consequence of improper installation - uneven distribution of glue on inner surface tiles. During walking on such an element, the load on the voids can lead to cracks or chips.

An inappropriate tile model is another factor in its cracking. The floor has a large thickness, including the enamel coating. One of the defining differences is the low slip coefficient (prevents injury), slight hygroscopicity and mechanical strength. If you install a wall model on the floor, then over time, moisture can degrade the performance of the adhesive.

A thin layer of enamel will quickly be damaged, which will cause the coating to lose its appearance. The best way solution to the problem is the replacement of individual elements of the coating.

• Damage, chips. Observing the above rules for choosing and laying tiles, there is still a possibility of external defects - chips and scuffs. In some cases, tile replacement is not required. You can use special repair putty. However, you must periodically update the area of ​​the defect.

How to repair a tile floor: phased execution

start repair work with an assessment of the degree of destruction of the floor - this will help to make the most economically justified decision. If more than 30% of the tiles are damaged (such damage is already considered significant), it will be cheaper to completely replace the old coating - remove the existing material and lay out the coating again. A complete replacement of the floor will make it possible to change its design, use a more modern tiled material. True, such a repair of tiles on the floor is not for everyone.

If the ceramic sheet is partially changed, then the biggest difficulty is, perhaps, in the selection of the appropriate one. The prudent owner, who at one time followed the golden rule and bought a tile with a margin, of course, is not in danger. Others will have to look for a similar one in stores, and if the tile is already outdated and discontinued, then finding and repairing the tiled floor with it becomes a separate problem.

How to remove old tiles without touching adjacent tiles

The main problem is precisely this. The easiest way to solve this issue is with sufficiently wide seams between the flooring elements.

Removing one or more tiles is the most time-consuming process of repairing a tiled floor. To do this, you need to use the following tools and materials:

• Scraper. It removes the outer layer of adhesive and decorative putty between the tiles.
• Chisel or perforator with a chisel. During dismantling, it is impossible to save the defective element, so it will be necessary to break it to completely remove it from the floor surface.
• New tiles, tile adhesive and notched trowel.
• Personal protective equipment - gloves, goggles.

Options for removing damaged areas

• propyl seams with a grinder with water;
• cutting seams with a drill with a thin drill;
• removal of tiles with a perforator or manually with a chisel;
• a combination of these options, depending on the availability of a particular tool.

Then remove the old layer of glue.

Attention

It is important to find out the cause of the damage. Perhaps the underlying concrete screed was broken, then it will have to be restored.

The screed is restored with a cement-sand mortar. With a significant number of damaged tiles, a self-levelling floor can be laid. For laying individual tiles, which are surrounded by durable, preserved floor elements, only tile adhesive is used.

When restoring the screed with cement or a self-leveling mixture, the level is set just below the old floor so that you can then trim the new part with the main coating in height.

It remains only to wait for the glue to dry. Approximately 24 hours later, the floor repair can be considered completed.

Screed repair

Repair concrete screed required in the event that the technology of its installation was not observed. With thermal expansion, it acts on the tile adhesive, creating stress on the surface of the tile. As a result, this leads to damage to the latter. Most often, this situation occurs when repairing the floors in the corridor is required.

If, after performing the above steps to remove the defective tile, cracks are found on the surface of the screed, it is necessary to repair the screed. To do this, remove the tiles along the entire length of the split and carefully remove the concrete layer. Its thickness should be about 4-7 cm. Reinforcing strapping must be present. If not, you will have to redo the entire screed. This is a time-consuming process, but after its completion, the probability of a floor defect is significantly reduced.

Consider the most common option - the pouring technology was done correctly, but the crack still appeared. This phenomenon is typical for new houses, the foundation of which has not passed the stage of final shrinkage. First you need to expand the crack, remove 1-2 mm of concrete along its edges. After removing the debris, you can start pouring the repair mixture.

Best to use special formulations, which form a strong coupling with the rest of the surface of the screed. Having poured some part of the mixture into the crack, you need to wait for its distribution throughout the volume. For leveling, you can add more solution on top. At the end, it is necessary to wait some time for the preliminary cooling of the mixture. Then, using a spatula, a leveling surface layer is applied.

Laying tiles can only be done after 5-7 days. You should act according to the above technology.

How to repair floors in the hallway

If the cracks are small, you can try to level them with cement paste - a mixture of fine sand and cement taken equally. Cracks are filled with the resulting mixture and rubbed with a spatula or swab in different directions so that it is better absorbed into the depths of the crack. If the crack is severe, the tile will need to be replaced.

Let us describe in more detail the process of replacing one cracked tile.

• Remove damaged material. Along the diagonal of the damaged element with a step of no more than 2 cm. Then they put on goggles and gloves and, armed with a hammer and chisel, break the tile into small pieces. They work carefully so that neighboring ones are not damaged. You can also break off fragments, starting from the center and moving towards the edges.
• We clean up the trash. Debris and dust are removed with a vacuum cleaner. This is an important step and should be taken seriously. The remaining dust may well cause insufficient “grabbing” of the material with the floor and, when laid, it will stagger. In this case, it will have to be repaired again.
• We prepare the base. How to proceed will depend on the condition of the base and the cause of the defect. In any case, in order to replace the floor element, it is advisable, especially if there are several of them, to remove the screed layer and level it.
• A new screed is poured from a cement-sand mixture, special glue or a self-leveling mixture. In this case, it is necessary to observe a 5 mm gap to the desired level of the screed in order to be able to accurately adjust its height due to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It is necessary to ensure that the screed layer lies on the full surface, without voids. The screed must be allowed to dry.

• We stack. A pillow is prepared from tile adhesive, on which waves are arranged with a spatula - after installation and adjustment of the coating, they will settle.
• On the reverse side of the tile, a special adhesive is applied with a notched trowel and adjusted using a level in height. Then they upset with a fist, a mallet or a rubber press. So that it does not stand out from the rest of the coating, the seams must be processed.

• We sew the seams. To grout the joints begin after a day. Its excess can be removed after a quarter of an hour. To do this, use either a special sponge or an ordinary household sponge. To completely eliminate all stains from the grout, you will need several passes (3-4 times).
• Special care when grouting seams is not required. The putty that accidentally fell on the "neighbors" can simply be wiped with a damp sponge.

On a note

Self-repair of tiles on the floor can be done with a minimum set of tools. Particular attention should be paid to the composition of the adhesive and the repair mixture. They should be designed to perform this type of work. If all the rules and technology have been followed, it will be almost impossible to distinguish the new installed tile from the rest of the coating externally.

Tiled flooring is considered one of the most resistant to natural wear and damage of any kind, but it so happens that they also require attention. In addition, not always during the repair, the laying of tiles is carried out again, and chipped, worn and worn areas against the background of the new interior will be distinguished by sloppy spots. Meanwhile, knowing some professional secrets and the tricks of builders, you can easily, quickly and no less qualitatively repair tiles with your own hands, without spending huge amounts of money either on a complete replacement of the coating or on the expensive services of qualified teams.

Why does the tile fail, or how to avoid its repair?

Most often, various mistakes made by the masters in the process of laying lead to the falling off of the tile and the appearance of its damage. The most common of them are:

• poor preparation of the surface of the walls or floor;
• improper dilution of cement mortar for gluing;
• careless handling of tiles, leading to the appearance of microcracks, which, during further operation, with any light impact, turn into chips and cracks.

In addition, if during operation the tightness of the connection between the tile and the base is broken, then the moisture that gets under it quickly destroys the adhesive layer. Therefore, it is very important to monitor the condition of the tile joints and carry out the necessary repairs of ceramic tiles in a timely manner.

If we talk about paving slabs, then the factors that negatively affect the durability of the coating are also added to the aggressive effects of atmospheric phenomena, as well as an increased risk of damage by falling heavy objects on the surface.

Compliance with the technology during laying, careful handling of the material and proper operation will allow you to forget about the need to repair the tiled floor for many years.

Tiled or ceramic tiles

Types of repair work

The most common tile repair is the installation of fallen tiles in place. Often there is a need to replace the old damaged coating. For example, when a kitchen is being renovated, tiles after moving furniture or decor items to another place remain with holes from fasteners. Old worn seams that have absorbed dust, grease and other dirt and have lost their original color also do not look very aesthetically pleasing.

If there are chips and cracks on the tile...

If there is no stock of tiles left, and the store failed to pick up suitable material for replacement, cracks can be repaired with "cement milk".

"Cement milk" is a solution of cement with water, without the addition of sand, reminiscent of real milk in consistency.

To do this, it is necessary, gradually pouring the solution onto the surface of the tile, rub it with a rough piece of cloth into the crack. For better penetration, this should be done in two directions: along and across the crack. Deeper chips and depressions can be completely filled with this solution and smoothed out after drying.

To achieve greater strength of the solution that fills the cracks, it must be slightly moistened for another two to three days.

If a whole tile fell off ...

... do not panic and start a global repair with a change of the entire coating. This tile can easily be returned to its place. If the tile has not completely gone away and still holds on a little, it must be very carefully removed from its nest with a chisel or chisel.

Then painstakingly prepare the base for laying, otherwise you will have to face the same problem very soon. To do this, remove all adhesive residue or, if floor tiles are being repaired, knock out all the old cement mortar to the base. After that, it is necessary to clean the surface of the smallest particles of dust and other contaminants and slightly moisten it with water.

There are several ways to reattach a tile:

1. On silicone sealant, and it is better to use white than transparent, which has less strength.
2. On liquid glass. With this method, a solution of liquid glass must be mixed with ordinary tooth powder.
3. On zinc white. In this case, it is necessary to treat the base with drying oil a day before fixing the tile.
4. For cement mortar.
5. For tile adhesive.

In the last two options, when preparing the surface of the base, it is necessary to go deeper into it by 3-4 millimeters. Such a margin is necessary so that the laid tile does not stick out due to the adhesive layer.

For better adhesion, any adhesive applied to the tile must be leveled with a notched trowel.

If you need to replace the tile with a new one ...

First, the damaged tile must be removed. It is easier to do this if you first get rid of the tile joints, for example, with a spatula.

Next, with a thin drill, we drill holes around the circumference in the center of the tile at a close distance from each other and knock out this part with a light blow. Now, inserting a chisel into the resulting hole, carefully chip off the damaged tiles, while trying not to damage the nearby ones, of course, if they cannot be removed.

The next step is to carefully clean the whole tiles from the remnants of the grout, and the base from the old glue. After that, it is necessary to make sure that the surface is intact; before gluing the tiles, even shallow potholes should be repaired. Do not neglect the primer, it will help to achieve maximum evenness of the base.

After the tile is glued into place, be sure to check its level with the rest of the coating. If it protrudes, then a simple tapping on it will help to put it in the right position, if, on the contrary, the tile is buried among the rest, then it must be removed and some glue added.

Seams between only laid tiles should be sealed no earlier than the adhesive composition has completely dried.

If the tile seams don't look good...

If the seams between the tiles have lost their attractive appearance or become moldy, you should not panic either. There are a variety of solutions in the hardware stores that deal with these problems.

If the grout is partially (or even completely) crumbled, you will have to work a little. After all, it will need to be completely replaced throughout the room, otherwise renovated site will stand out from the rest. Of course, you can try to choose a tool with the most suitable color, but this is rarely possible.

So, first you need to clean the entire tiled surface from limescale and other deposits. Now it is not difficult, the range of appropriate tools is simply huge. After that, we completely remove the old tile joints using a thin and pointed object (it is better if it is wooden, this will avoid accidental damage to the tiles) and overwrite them again.

If the tile has lost its former gloss ...

In general, ceramic tiles quite easily restore their original appearance with the help of special impregnations, detergents and other preparations, but if you really want to change radically, and a new installation is not yet in your plans, then you can try changing the surface design.

One way is to paint the tiles. Of course, first it must be thoroughly cleaned and sanded with sandpaper. After that, we degrease the section of the tiled coating intended for the drawing, and remove the plaque remaining after washing with acetone. If the pattern is simple, for example, geometric ornaments, then its boundaries can be marked with thin tape or tape. If you want something unusual, you will have to suffer with the preparation of stencils. The entire surface left under the drawing must be primed, and its coloring can only be started after the primer has completely dried.

That's all, you can enjoy the new interior!

paving slabs

A few words need to be said separately about this type of tile. Yes, it requires the same types of repairs, but there are several nuances in their technologies.

1. First, when replacing a sagging paving slabs it is necessary to re-fill the base with sand, carefully compact and level it.
2. Secondly, if sagging or deformation has been caused sewage, then first you should take care of their correct removal from the surface of the coating, and only then begin repairing paving slabs.

And finally, a short video that tells about some building secrets of laying tiles and grouting:

Do not forget that even the most durable materials can fail as a result of careless handling. Pledge of durability of a tiled covering - proper care and timely repairs.

14-08-2015

Tiled tiles require careful handling.

Repair of tiles requires caution in the preparatory and basic work.

Using this construction material, care must be taken when preparatory work as well as during installation.

It often happens that after a certain period, some of the laid tiles may fall off, and the other may crack a little. Many owners of apartments met with this picture. There are several main reasons that could lead to such consequences. Most of them are associated with the master's mistakes made by him while laying the tiles on the wall:

• the preparation of the walls was carried out incorrectly, with serious violations;
• violation of the installation technology, which could lead to the appearance of cracks, chips;
• glue was prepared incorrectly;
• destruction of the adhesive base due to poor-quality seam processing.

It is possible to avoid future repair of ceramics if the rules of laying and operation are fully observed, and proper care is also important.

Modern types of do-it-yourself tile repair

Scheme of laying tiles in the corner using PVC profiles.

With modern tiles, many metamorphoses can occur, due to which appearance ceramic tiles deteriorate: greasy and dirty spots appear on the tile, a small network of cracks forms, often the tiles break off at the corners or may even fall off the wall. With the help of conventional tools, you can carry out cosmetic repairs of tiles without the involvement of professional craftsmen.

A large scratch stands out strongly on a matte surface and spoils the whole look of the laid out composition. Perfect option – complete replacement tiles, but if this is not possible, then you can perform the following simple steps to help mask this small defect:

1. First you need to prepare the material, which consists of cement and water. Of these two components, it is necessary to make a solution, which should not be thick, but rather liquid. No other components need to be used.
2. If the scratch is not deep enough, then it must be covered with the resulting solution. It is advisable to rub the solution into the crack. For this operation, it is convenient to use a small piece of tissue. Now the solution should dry completely, then the operation is repeated again until the crack is no longer noticeable.
3. It happens that the treated area may differ in color from all the others. In this case, the necessary paint is selected, it is very carefully applied to the crack, the main thing is not to fall on the whole tile. There should be no problems with the selection of paint, since modern hardware stores provide the service of selecting and manufacturing paint on an individual order.

If one element of the tiled structure has fallen off, then, perhaps, this will entail the fall of other ceramic tiles. If the tightness was not broken, then it is possible to return the broken piece to its usual place. Before laying work, it is necessary to carefully dismantle all unstable tile elements, that is, select the entire tile, which, when pressed, sways or is already moving away from the wall. An important stage of work is the preparation of the walls. The old hardened adhesive composition must be completely removed, otherwise the repair will not work. After removing the adhesive, it is necessary to clean the surface, remove all residues of dirt and dust. All foreign elements can prevent ceramic tiles from adhering to the wall. After thorough cleaning, the wall should be abundantly moistened with water. As a solution or glue, you can use different components:

• dry tile adhesive;
• cement mortar;
• silicone-based sealant;
• liquid nails or liquid glass;
• zinc white, which is applied to the base, pre-treated with drying oil.

A thick layer of applied adhesive can cause the tile to protrude above the base layer. In order to prevent this, the place where the glue is applied needs to be deepened by only a couple of millimeters.