DIY home oven. Do-it-yourself stove for heating your home. Buslaevskaya stove: projects

It will cost less to install a stone stove in your home than to install a stone stove yourself, since the cost of stone is higher than brick. If you do not want to build a brick stove or have no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. At the same time, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance; the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. Preparatory stage construction involves the construction of a foundation.

The foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.

This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of the rise of heaving soil under the building. Next, a stove is built using red solid bricks.

What tools and materials should you use to build brick ovens?

Figure 1. Order of a brick kiln.

You can prepare the mortar for masonry in a special container. In any case, you should have a building level on hand for level masonry, since each row must have a flat surface. Among the main materials for preparing the stove for masonry, the following should be highlighted:

• sand;
• clay;
• red solid brick;
• roofing felt;
• grate;
• pipe;
• tree;
• gravel;
• cement.

Before laying the furnace, you should prepare a carefully designed scheme for constructing a brick furnace, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Next, they immediately begin with the preparation of masonry mortar. Concrete should not be used. Typically, clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.

Figure 2. Sequence of actions when laying bricks: A – spoon row; B – bonded row.

The clay must be softened before use. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days to soften it. During the preparation of the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand and clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.

If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various pebbles and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly ensure an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace and its strength. If you prepare a large volume of solution at once, then if there is no need to use it, it will lose its properties. beneficial features, therefore the masonry mortar is prepared several times during the masonry process.

For high-quality masonry of the furnace, it is necessary to do a preliminary placement of bricks, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on a separate foundation. All work should be based on reference to the diagram of the developed furnace design. Careful use of the solution allows you to carefully seal each seam.

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How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven

Figure 3. Types of brickwork.

A carefully designed furnace according to the appropriate finished drawing is laid out on a separately constructed foundation, as noted above. The principle of constructing the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. Pouring the foundation begins with preparing a pit below the depth from which the soil begins to freeze, which can be about 1 meter.

You can fill the bottom of the pit using wet sand and laying a layer of broken brick or stone on it. The size of this layer should be 15 cm in height, and crushed stone is poured on top of it. To create removable formwork, specially prepared boards nailed together are used. The formwork should be made strong, as it must withstand pouring concrete. Quality level concrete pouring will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.

After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the hardened concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar and roofing felt. All layers of these materials should provide maximum reliable waterproofing of the foundation slab. The remaining space between the foundation and the soil should be filled with sand with coarse grains or a layer of gravel.

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How to make a brick oven in the house with your own hands correctly

Figure 4. Chimney laying.

Tips for laying a brick stove.

The principle of laying a furnace can be based on the following algorithm of actions:

1. Construction of the foundation slab.
2. Furnace device.
3. Laying the furnace in rows in accordance with the order diagram.
4. Grate arrangement.
5. Fitting bricks.
6. Combustion door device.

Among the recommendations for laying a stove in the house there are a number of basic ones. For example, the grate should be mounted in a stove without it resting on the inner walls of the stove, otherwise when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry of the walls. The foundation of the stove must be waterproofed. The base of the foundation must protrude at a distance of at least 10 cm. The oven being installed is usually a certain space on the front outer wall of the oven, equipped with a hole for storing equipment.

When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully adjust them to each other so that there are no gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably overlap smoke channel from the back wall of the oven. If you cover the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed to the proper level.

The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left block is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers of asbestos cord at all contact points. Secure the combustion door with three layers of galvanized wire. Using high quality bricks will help to avoid the formation of cracks in the brickwork.

Bricks must be moistened with water before laying, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a pattern. It will help check the quality of the masonry of brick corners and walls of the future furnace design. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which a building level is used.

Despite the large assortment of gas boilers and modern metal models, brick stoves have not lost their relevance and are becoming increasingly popular.

Advantages of a brick stove in the house

First, you need to figure out and sum up why a brick stove is incredibly popular and whether it is worth connecting it to a common heating system. In fact, there are many reasons that contributed to this:

Brick stoves keep the room warm for a long time

• fast heating;
• long-term maintenance of heat in the room;
• operational safety;
• minimum evaporation, maintaining humidity levels.

The furnace body heats up perfectly and ensures long-term maintenance temperature regime. There is no need to periodically re-heat the oven. And this is the main advantage when making comparative characteristics in relation to furnace devices made of cast iron or steel. In practice, this is indeed true, because you have to add firewood to metal stoves after a maximum of 6 hours, while brick retains heat and releases it within 24 hours.

The unique ability to retain heat for a long time ensures efficiency and improves the environment, since less carbon monoxide evaporates into the atmosphere.

The optimal fuel combustion mode ensures the decomposition of carbon dioxide and water into individual molecules. As a result, heat is generated, which the stove absorbs, then accumulates and gradually releases, thereby providing heating to the room.

The oven does not heat up from the outside, so it is somewhat safe to use. As a result, the resulting radiation becomes soft, which is not produced by metal units during heating.

A brick oven emits slight evaporation when heated, and when the temperature drops, it absorbs moisture again. This property is usually called breathing. At the same time, the humidity in the room remains within acceptable limits, its indicator is from 40 to 60%.

About the disadvantages and comparative characteristics

The disadvantages of operation include the fact that you have to wait a long time for the stove to light up and heat the room. Therefore, experienced stove makers advise additionally purchasing a steel manifold to heat the air at a forced pace.

When heating steel furnaces, dust is simultaneously heated and deposited on the metal surface, resulting in the formation of substances harmful to health, which does not occur when using the brick version.

You can do the firebox yourself, which will save you money Money, and bricklaying will only bring pleasure.

Types of structures

There are three types of brick-type stoves for heating, which you need to know about when choosing a design:

• Duct Dutch oven.

This design has a cast iron stove with which you can cook food. The stoves are generally small in size and have proven themselves to be excellent in country houses. Of course, the stove also has the functions of heating a house. The oven can be easily installed on its own.

This unique stove can heat large areas. In its design, the masonry provides:

• bed;
• baking cabinet;
• tank for heating water;
• a special niche for drying fruit.

Therefore, the oven is popular.

Duct Dutch oven. The design received such an interesting name because of the channel sequence. It is easy to manufacture, and during the laying process it is possible to connect any structural element. However, the maximum heat transfer is no more than 40%, and heating the house is unlikely to be effective.

Everyone decides for themselves what type of furnace needs to be built, depending on operating conditions and capabilities.

What kind of brick should the stove be made of?

Before laying the stove, it is important to decide on the choice of brick. It is necessary to take into account the material's resistance to high temperatures and its integrity during heating and cooling. The characteristics of the brick are an important criterion when choosing material for building a stove.

Important characteristics of brick:

• brand;
• frost resistance.

Brand. When choosing, you should know about the grade of material, which indicates the density of the structure. The optimal choice would be brick grades from M75 to M250. The higher the density indicator, the longer the oven heats up, but the masonry will also cool more slowly, thereby giving off heat longer.

When building a stove inside a bathhouse, it is best to select a brick with a low index, but grade 100 or higher, otherwise melting will take a long time. To warm up country houses or cook food, dense brick fits better. But it should be remembered that density does not confirm the quality of the material. Therefore, it is recommended to find out about the composition of the brick.

Frost resistance. This property is especially important for a chimney located under the roof. The frost resistance criterion means the ability to accumulate moisture; after water crystallizes, the material deforms and the masonry gradually collapses. For hollow masonry bricks this figure is quite high.

These indicators are important, so you should familiarize yourself with them before making a purchasing decision.

You should buy clay materials for stove masonry Brown. They successfully withstand sudden temperature changes, and if the stove has not been used for a long time, the masonry will not crack.

You should not choose silicate, cast or pressed bricks - their structure will not withstand the load.

Fireclay brick is most suitable for laying a furnace, as it can withstand temperatures up to 1350 0 C. It can also be used to build the entire structure, or you can use it to lay only the inner mile.

Using bricks of grade ША 8 yellow with speckles or ША from 22 to 45 – perfect solution for laying a stove, but not for rooms with increased level humidity, since its operation is possible only at 60% humidity.

In rooms such as a bathhouse, it is best to use the following types of bricks:

• ceramic;
• refractory;
• clinker.

Taking into account all of the above, you can achieve an impeccable result.

Step-by-step instruction

It is not difficult to assemble a heating stove with your own hands; just read the instructions.

Initially, it is recommended to lay out rows without using mortar to ensure alignment, and then transfer to mortar. To ensure the accuracy of the work, you can make formwork, so there will be less chance of making a mistake, and the masonry will look slimmer.

Further sequence of actions:

• After the third row has been laid, the blower door should be placed in the oven.
• To keep everything level, a level is used, and an asbestos cord is used to close the gap.
• Then they begin laying out the main part intended for heating. For this purpose, fireclay or stove bricks are used.
• Before laying a brick stove, the ceramic material is cleaned of dust and dirt and moistened with clean water.
• Fireclay bricks should not be wetted.
• Laying out the mortar can be done manually, since it is difficult to achieve a mortar thickness of 3 mm using a trowel.
• The furnace laying must be verified. Tapping and separate editing are not allowed.
• If you can’t do this the first time, you can repeat everything, having first cleared the brick from the mortar.
• After completing several rows of masonry, a grate is installed in the grooves of the fireclay bricks to separate the ash chamber.
• The working combustion door is installed in the furnace in the same way as the blower.
• The furnace body is laid out brickwork.
• If the cast iron slab should be below the level of the bricks, then the last row of masonry should be moved outward.

Before carrying out work, you should consult a specialist.

Rules and nuances of operation

In order for the operation of the furnace to be truly economically profitable, it is necessary to maintain it in impeccable condition.

A small crack in the masonry, up to 2 mm, will contribute to heat loss from the heating system. Approximately 10% of the heat will be lost due to the entry of air masses.

The firewood used should not be wet. It is recommended to pre-dry them naturally and prepare them long before flooding the oven. Damp firewood will play a negative role, since it will cause condensation to accumulate on the brick walls, the action of which will contribute to the destruction of the material.

The firewood does not need to be stacked tightly together; there should be a gap of at least 10 mm between them, and 2 cm should remain free from the top of the stove. Ideal option the firebox will be filled to 2/3 of the total volume of the chamber.

• If the vent is open during heating, up to 20% of the heat will enter the pipe and the heating will not work effectively.
• When the combustion door is open, about half of the heat will be lost.
• For uniform heating, it is recommended to select logs of the same size, approximately 10 cm thick.
• To make the fire burn better, it is recommended to use wood chips or a splinter, and the use of flammable liquids for these purposes is prohibited.
• The view should be closed, then the heat will not go directly into the chimney, and the heating will be at the same level.

To ensure traction, you should focus on the color of the fire. If the color is yellow, then the combustion mode is optimal; if it is white, then there is a lot of air in the flame and most of the heat goes into the chimney. If the fire is red, then this is due to a lack of oxygen.

A technically competent solution for the operation and care of the stove will ensure long-term and reliable operation.

How can you paint a stove?

There is nothing wrong if the oven does not turn out beautiful on the outside. The surface can be painted. Previously, stoves were plastered or covered with two layers of lime. Today it is possible to cover the base with modern paints:

• heat-resistant enamel of the KO brand on an organosilicon base;
• acrylic or silicate coloring compounds;
• special heat-resistant varnish, it can be used with pigment.

Preference is still given to KO enamel (85, 174, 813). Moreover, it is intended for painting the brick itself and the metal elements of the stove. Withstands temperatures up to 600 0 C. Acrylic and silicate paint bases are much cheaper, but their service life is much shorter.

A good solution would be to use transparent varnish mixed with gouache of the selected color.

Application is carried out in two layers, sequentially. In this case, the first one must be dry before applying the second one. Use regular brushes and a roller. Before painting, it is necessary to treat with a primer specially purchased for this purpose.

In all cases, before carrying out work, you should weigh everything in order to make the right decision.

Furnace laying experts advise adhering to the following rules:

• To install a cast iron stove on a stove, it is not recommended to use a solution; it is enough to ensure a tight seal with an asbestos cord.
• After finishing the work on laying the stove, you can begin building a chimney for the heating system.
• The combustion unit is cleaned in the summer, and in the cold season it is recommended to clean the chimney a couple of times.
• In the presence of soot, the smoke outlet becomes clogged and, as a result, the efficiency of the stove will not be as high.

Regulation of the furnace operation is provided by a valve, door or view. These elements are subject to constant monitoring and, if necessary, they are replaced.

Before deciding to install a heating stove yourself, it is recommended that you read the technical literature.

Nowadays the choice of heating bath appliances is very large. But the masters still believe that bricks are made the best option. Brick structures are characterized by soft warmth and long-lasting heat transfer. And in decorative terms, they have no alternatives - architectural masterpieces can be made from brick.

Kiln masonry is more complex than usual. There are many nuances here, since this is not just a building, but a completely technological structure. The thermal characteristics and service life of the stove, as well as the comfort and safety of users, depend on the quality of the masonry and the accuracy of following the pattern.

But a brick oven for small bathhouse Even a relatively unprepared person can do it with his own hands. It is enough to have some mason skills and a minimum set of tools.

Figure 1. Stove in the bathhouse

Choosing bricks for a sauna stove

Red and fireclay bricks are suitable for laying the stove. The second option is much preferable. This material is made from heat-resistant clay. But it costs much more than usual. Therefore, both materials are usually combined. Areas that are subject to particularly strong heating are made of fireclay, and other areas of the structure are built of red brick.

Figure 2. Fireclay heat-resistant brick

On a note! The brick must be solid. It is marked with the letter “M” and numbers indicating the maximum permissible load per square centimeter. The minimum grade for stove masonry is M150.

In order for the result to be worthy, it is recommended to test the brick for strength before purchasing. It is advisable to buy one piece and split it. High-quality material at the chip site is characterized by tonal uniformity and the absence of foreign inclusions.

The geometry of the brick is also important. Standard sizes– 250x120x65 mm. The permissible deviation is no more than a couple of millimeters. Among other things, you need to pay attention to the presence or absence of a mica-like film covering the material. It should not be there - the film greatly impairs the adhesion of the brick to the masonry mixture.

The furnace may be laid from bricks that meet the listed requirements. High temperatures, like temperature fluctuations, do not forgive mistakes. It is very important not to be lazy or stingy in order to purchase quality material, which will not cause problems in a couple of years.

Construction of the foundation for the stove

Without a foundation you can only do very simple small ovens. A more or less massive structure needs a powerful foundation.

The procedure for creating the foundation:

• digging a pit; the depth of the hole depends on climatic conditions– the bottom of the pit should be below the ground freezing point; usually they dig to a depth of 0.5-0.7 m; towards the base the pit expands slightly - this compensates for possible soil shifts;
• sand is poured onto the bottom in a layer of several centimeters; thoroughly moisten and compact the sand;
• they fill in crushed stone - again, in a layer of several centimeters;
• install formwork and reinforcement;
• fill the hole with concrete; the top point of the mixture should be several centimeters below floor level;
• after the concrete has set, the formwork is removed;
• make waterproofing using, for example, roofing felt; the material must completely cover the base for the stove; Waterproofing work is mandatory, because without it, moisture can seep into the brick from the ground - this will lead to the gradual destruction of the masonry material.

Figure 3. Ruberoid for the foundation

Must be strictly horizontal. The use of a building level is mandatory. After installing the base, it must be allowed to stand for at least a week. After this, you can begin laying the stove.

Selection of masonry mixture

To lay the stove you need to use a heat-resistant mixture. You can buy it at a construction supermarket or prepare it yourself. The factory version is distinguished by a verified ratio of components. A solution prepared by yourself means saving money.

For such work, clay-based mixtures are used. The latter, unlike cement, is not afraid of high temperatures. On the contrary, when exposed to heat, the material becomes stronger. Either red or fireclay clay is used. In this case, the thermal expansion indicators of the brick and the mixture will be approximately the same. And this will make the structure monolithic.

Clay is mixed with sand. The amount of the latter depends on the fat content of the clay. Since in each case the parameters of the materials are individual, it is recommended to test the solution. The quality of the mixture is checked in different ways. One way is to make several balls and let them dry away from sun rays. Dried balls are thrown from a meter height. Those that do not collapse will show the appropriate proportions of the components. The range of proportions is from 1:1 to 1:2 in favor of sand.

Advice! Use sand with a grain size of no more than 1.5 mm. Millimeter fraction is preferred.

The mixture must be strong and plastic. The recommended thickness of the masonry joint is 5 mm. This is half as much as when laying a conventional building. Practice shows that increasing or decreasing the thickness of the joints leads to a decrease in the service life of the stove in the house.

Safety principles

Stove heating must meet certain safety principles. Ignoring them can lead to extremely unpleasant consequences.

One of the main requirements is that there is a minimum distance of 30-40 cm between the stove and combustible materials (usually wall cladding). Family steam rooms are usually not large, so a sauna stove should not eat up space.

To reduce the minimum distance, a thermal insulating gasket is made. For example, from basalt wool and steel sheet. Or made of brick. In this case, half the distance between the heating structure and walls.

Figure 4. Protective metal sheet

You also need to remember about the joints between the ceiling/roof and the chimney. The gap between the elements is also insulated with heat-resistant material. The seams are then decorated using special - purchased or homemade - overlays.

Layout diagram of one of the sauna stove options

You can make a stove for a bath in different design and technical formats. Below is a diagram of one of the possible projects. The design assumes the presence of a built-in hydraulic tank. The building is suitable for country house or for a large dacha. For a small building, it is better to choose a different option, since this one is not the most economical in terms of space.

Figure 5. One of the variations in the location of the stove in the sauna space

The dimensions of the base correspond to the number of bricks - the length of the stove is 5, and the width is 4 bricks. In centimeters this is 129x102 cm. The height of the “device” is 210 cm. These dimensions and technical features designs allow you to effectively heat a steam room with an area of ​​10-15 m2. Effective means up to 100 degrees in the climax phase and up to 40-50 in the washing phase.

The stove allows you to install a tank with a capacity of 170-200 liters. The heating effect is enhanced by the installation of 6 pipes in the hydraulic tank area. They also make placement of the heater more convenient. According to this drawing of a do-it-yourself stove, the length of the pipes is 100-105 cm. During the heating process, the metal elements become very hot, which increases both the quality and duration of heat transfer.

It's time to start laying the brick oven.

Order of the stove masonry

The order will tell you how to make a stove for your bathhouse correctly. The diagram is as follows (list numbers correspond to the rows of masonry):

1. 1. Everything is simple here - the row is formed by continuous masonry.
   2. On the second row, the formation of the ash pan begins. This is where the door to his cell is mounted. The element frame should be 10 mm smaller than the opening for the ash pan. The difference is necessary because the metal door is wrapped with an asbestos cord with a diameter of 5 mm. The door is secured with wire on all sides. The latter serves not only as a retainer, but also as a reinforcement, which, after installing the door, is coated with a clay mixture.
   3. The masonry is carried out in a similar way - an ash pan chamber is formed.
      
   4. Fireclay bricks (in the illustration it yellow color) cover the ash pan chamber. “Chamotte” also serves as the base of the fuel chamber. The grate of the home sauna stove is fixed on the same row. This will most likely require individual sharpening of the bricks.
      
   5. The perimeter of the stove is formed from red, and the firebox is made from fireclay heat-resistant bricks. The firebox will consist entirely of fire-resistant material - this required condition, otherwise the structure will not last long.
      
   6. Continue laying the firebox and fix the door of this chamber.
      
   7. Laying continues according to the illustration.
   8. The procedure is the same.
   9. On this row, the door of the fuel chamber is covered.
   10. Fireclay bricks are laid according to the diagram, forming openings for pipes, which were discussed in the corresponding section above. Here they also prepare a place for the hydraulic tank. Then, on the same row - after the mixture has slightly set - pipes are installed. The space between the metal and the brick must be sealed with a heat-resistant material - for example, basalt wool. After this, it’s time to install the hydraulic tank. The procedure is well illustrated.
   11. The pipes are covered with red brick. The hydraulic tank is no longer shown in the illustrations, but this was done for the convenience of readers - this way the masonry and the corresponding elements are better visible. But it must be borne in mind that in a real project the tank must be present.
   12. The masonry is getting higher.

1. 1. The procedure is the same - the sauna stove grows.
   2. Everything is the same.
   3. Another similar row - there are already 5 rows of red solid brick above the pipes.
   4. The walls continue to rise.
   5. The structure is getting taller.
   6. 
   7. The clutch is growing. The illustration again shows the water container. Internal volume above metal pipes(shown as a red rectangle in the picture) is filled with stones.
   8. A pair of steel strips are fixed above the container. They are necessary so that the hydraulic tank can be covered with bricks.
   9. Cover the container with a brick. They leave, according to the diagram, empty space. During operation, water will be poured onto the stones through this opening.
   10. The laying is done in the same way.
   11. The actions of the stove maker are similar - the brick stove takes on its characteristic shape.
   12. The procedure does not change.
   13. Everything is the same - the masonry has become a row higher.
   14. The masonry is completed according to the same scheme. A door is inserted into the opening through which water will be supplied to the heater. It would have been easier to install the door earlier. At this stage, editing is also possible, and the absence of an element in the illustration was due to the comfort of the readers. After installing the door, a steel strip is laid on top in the same way - for already known purposes.
   15. On this row, the heater chamber door is covered. Preparatory work on the furnace ceiling has begun. Since the area to be covered is large and, from a masonry point of view, inconvenient, they again resort to using two metal strips. The thickness of the metal must be at least 10 mm. The strips are not laid directly on the brick, but in pre-prepared recesses. Fire-resistant gaskets must be placed under the metal. In addition, the strips are fixed to the brick with a two-millimeter gap, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the material during the firing of the furnace.
       
   16. The ceiling is made with solid masonry. The exception is the hole for the chimney. Next to the hole there is a small recess for a metal damper, which is installed at the same stage.
       
   17. The laying procedure is similar.
       
   18. Nothing changes except the height of the structure.
       
   19. On this row you need to build the base of the smoke exhaust duct.
       
   20. Continue laying the chimney. This is not the last row - the number of remaining rows depends on the height of the pipe, which, in turn, is determined by the characteristics of the bathhouse.

   The finished stove should be allowed to stand for at least 5-7 days. After this, several preparatory fireboxes will be required. During this period, you can only heat with wood chips or paper - fuel that does not create high temperature. The duration of such fireboxes is about 15 minutes.

   Important! No more than one per day. The procedure must be repeated until condensation stops forming, signaling excess moisture in the structure.

   Conclusion

   Operating principle sauna stoves uncomplicated. When burned, the fuel forms heated gases that heat the stove walls, stones and hydraulic tank. Exhaust gases escape through the smoke exhaust duct.

   How to lay out a stove for a dacha that is not large in size? Likewise. The project will require a slight correction, in accordance with the dimensions of the building. Or you can build a heating unit according to a different scheme.

   High-quality masonry itself is characterized by the presence of a decorative component. But, if desired, the artistic effect can be enhanced. An excellent coating is heat-resistant tiles - ceramic granite, tiles, clinker. You can do the cladding yourself, but if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to call a specialist for help.

This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick stove with your own hands, tips on how not to make mistakes when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a small house and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.

Brick kiln placement options

The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. In this case, the front side of the fireplace opens into the living room, stove walls both bedrooms are heated, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - a budget option housing for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.

Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:

1. Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
2. Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
3. Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution in the old fashioned way from river sand with a grain size of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks at real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of ​​the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:

• plumb line;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• putty knife;
• Bulgarian;
• knitting wire;
• building level;
• metal strips, corners;
• containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove

Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about enough in a simple way creating a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.

Foundation laying

The base course of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Construction of the furnace body

The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.

A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.

The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the required size.

The next brick row is laid.

A fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.

The stove body is built.

Creating a chimney

The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.

The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of ​​the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Stoves bigger size require increased skill and additional materials, but the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.

Despite the fact that many buildings today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing new models of stoves, more compact ones, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private home, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems too early to turn on the autonomous heating, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them of excess humidity. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere and temperature balance in the house that is comfortable for humans.

Therefore, the search query about how to build a stove with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove maker at all show a desire to try their hand at this craft. If you decide to install a stove in your house on your own, then beginners are advised to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear procedure.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, how much area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

Types of brick kilns

There are several main types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - heating the house, others are used only for cooking, and others include several functions in their “set of capabilities”. Therefore, in order to decide on the right model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

• the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry vegetables and fruits for the winter.

A heating and cooking stove is often built into a wall or acts as a wall itself - to do this, it is turned with the stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall towards the living area of ​​the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and making it possible to cook food in a separate room.

If the structure is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

• The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both activated simultaneously. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large room, dividing it into zones.

A similar structure is erected both for the main heating of the house and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves They are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its own cooking capabilities, or in a house with a large total area, where several stoves are being built that perform different functions.

On summer cottage V small house It’s better to install a multifunctional structure that can help out in several situations at once.

• The cooking stove is built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for quick cooking food. However, this function does not deprive it of its heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast iron stove are well heated, releasing heat into the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.

A lot has been developed various models all listed types of ovens. They can be very miniature and occupy a large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. This way you can visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the stove?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and transfer maximum heat to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to consider this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the beams ceiling, and not accidentally stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

A brick stove structure can be installed in different places in a room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed further.

• To get the maximum effect from the stove, you should not install it near the outside wall of the building, as it will cool down quickly and is unlikely to heat more than one room.
• Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the furnace structure may have different decorative finishing, made in a style that matches the design of a specific area of ​​the room.
• Quite often, the stove is built into a wall between two or even three rooms, which allows for the most efficient use of the generated heat. In this case, for fire safety purposes, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, ceiling and attic floor at the passage point
• When choosing an installation location, it is also necessary to ensure that each side of the foundation for the furnace should be 100÷150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
• To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the stove, it is recommended to always choose a model that comes with an order diagram.

Having chosen the place for its installation, you can purchase everything necessary materials and prepare necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the stove model, and the tools for masonry are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

To work you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools

Tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation will require:

• Rule - This tool is used to level the surface of a concrete foundation.
• A hammer-pick is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
• Veselka is a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
• A stove hammer is used to split bricks and remove dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
• A broom made from sponge is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and solution that has got into them.
• A lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
• A building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
• A scriber is a rod used for markings.
• A plumb line is a cord with a weight designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
• Construction angle with a ruler to check the correctness of external and internal corners, since they must be perfectly straight.
• Pliers are used for bending and biting off wire to secure cast iron stove elements in masonry seams.
• Rasp - this tool is used to remove beads and grind in lumps in dried masonry.
• The chisel is used for splitting bricks and dismantling old masonry.
• A rubber hammer is necessary to level the bricks laid on the mortar using the tapping method.
• (trowels) different sizes used for applying mortar when laying bricks and removing the mixture protruding from the seams.
• Joining is a tool for leveling mortar in masonry joints. It is used if the masonry is done “for jointing”, without further cladding.
• Manual tamping will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
• Containers for mixing solution and clean water.
• Sieve with metal mesh for sifting sand.

• A stand for the convenience of working at heights, called “goats”. The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the stove is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, much less be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, which will lead to damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.

If you are building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do quite a lot of work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected stove model is not too massive, then the structure can be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material on the installation site.

The foundation should have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

• If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it along which the boards will be cut.
• Then a pit is dug in the subfloor soil according to the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
• The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic film or roofing felt.

• Then, a sand cushion 100÷150 mm thick is laid on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and compacted well using a hand tamper.
• The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with crushed stone, which is also compacted, if possible. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
• Next, wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing felt remains inside it, and then is fixed to the walls using a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will preserve the mortar poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will give the slab the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
• The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished foundation so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
• Some craftsmen, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80÷100 mm in order to save bricks. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler joining of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
• The next step is to install a reinforcement grid made of steel reinforcement 4÷6 mm thick into the formwork, to its entire height. The rods are tied together with wire twists.
• Next, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250÷300 mm, you can pour rough concrete mortar, mixed from cement and gravel in proportions 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can also use a regular concrete solution of sand and cement.
• If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
• The poured one is leveled according to the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and sink 15÷20 mm into the solution a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.

• The surface of the foundation is leveled again, and if necessary, concrete mortar is added to the formwork, on top of the mesh.
• Next, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
• Waterproofing is laid on top of the frozen foundation, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are laid one on top of the other.

• To start laying the first row, it is recommended to do waterproofing material markings, indicating the location of the oven base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and maintain the evenness of the sides and corners.

After these preparatory work, you can move on to masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen When starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar structure, they first do it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The entire structure is raised dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the stove model.

When performing dry masonry, it is necessary to maintain the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. To keep this parameter the same throughout the entire masonry, you can use slats 5 mm thick. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of slats when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, slats must be used. By applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the stove.

As an example of using slats, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a uniform thickness of the seams if the masonry is being made for jointing and will not be finished with additional decorative materials in the future.

When making dry masonry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the firebox and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then you will have to reposition part or even the entire structure of the stove, since backdraft may form and smoke will flow into the room during kindling.

Having raised the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole bricks, but also small fragments of them were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded into a separate stack, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each row is also indicated. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in the required order, and all that remains is to soak it one by one and place it in the rows of the oven, but already on the solution.

When performing the main laying, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution 60÷70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests against the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can be pulled out of the seam only after the solution has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If you are not sure that the vertical seams will be the same thickness, you can also prepare a short strip for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after leveling the two adjacent bricks.

After pulling the calibration strips out of the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order using jointing.

Processing seams for jointing

If the calibration slats were laid on both edges of the brick, then on the inside of the wall there will also be recesses between the seams. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar across the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not warp.

Such simple auxiliary devices as calibration slats will help to carry out the laying accurately with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire surface of the stove will look as if the design was made by a professional craftsman.

These nuances will help simplify the process of constructing a furnace structure and avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo the entire work.

Schemes for the construction of brick kilns

Yu. Proskurin's stove with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can easily master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is capable of fulfilling all the necessary small house functions, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water heating tank.

Such a stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with a total area of ​​17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. At the same time, it certainly needs to be oriented in such a way that the structure faces the kitchen area with the slab.

The dimensions of this heating structure, excluding the height of the chimney, are 750x630x2070 mm. The stove has two operating modes - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob during the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the entire house. The heat transfer from the stove when it is fully fired is 1700 kcal/h.

To construct this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281÷285	250×120×65
Fire-resistant fireclay brick, grade Ш-8	82÷85	250×120×65
Fire door	1	210×250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140×140
Blower door	1	140×250
Summer damper for chimney	1	130×130
Fire valve	1	130×130
Stove valve	1	130×130
grate	1	200×300
Single burner hob	1	410×340
Steel strip	1	40×260×5
	1	40×350×5
	1	40×360×5
Steel corner	1	40×40×635
	3	40×40×510
	4	40×40×350
Roofing iron	1	380×310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500×700

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing felt, reinforcing rod or steel wire 5÷6 mm thick. If you decide to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, you will have to purchase or manufacture one as well.

In order for the work to be successful, before starting it, it is strongly recommended that you study the order very carefully, and during the laying process, keep this diagram always at hand.

This illustration shows this furnace schematically in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels run inside the structure and trace the movement of smoke from the firebox to the chimney.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is continuous; it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since it will correct masonry the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend. A row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ash pit (ash chamber) and the bottom of two channels that will run vertically are laid. When laying out a row, openings are left for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. They are installed on the same row. A row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	To secure them in the masonry, cast iron doors are equipped with special lugs into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Next, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from its installation location until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the diagram. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber are raised in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since later they will be laid out separately. The cross-section of the channels along their entire height will be 80×120 mm. In addition, the installed doors overlap in this row. You need to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The fifth row is laid with refractory fireclay bricks, as the lower part of the firebox is formed. In the bricks that determine the location of the grate, a cut-out is made at a right angle from their inner edge. The cutout size should be approximately 10x10mm ± 1mm. The prepared bricks are laid above the blower chamber. To lay a row you will need 16 fireclay bricks.
	After this, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on a clay mortar, but often without any mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be about 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the firebox begin to be built. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Next, on the sixth row, it is mounted combustion door, which, just like the blower, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the firebox door is equipped not only with wire fastenings, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap that will allow the metal to expand when it is very hot.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out from 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering pattern. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the bricklaying in the rows is intertwined.
	When laying the ninth row, the door is blocked combustion chamber. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off from the bricks installed on the side walls at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of support for the middle brick, cut on both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two outer bricks. You will need 12 fireclay bricks per row.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the outermost vertical channel, since the smoke generated in the firebox was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth flow of hot air, a protruding corner is cut off on the middle brick separating the combustion hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cutout to a brick depth of 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed for laying hob. For masonry you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is lined with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3÷4 mm thick (assuming a hob thickness of 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, the hob is installed in the place prepared for it. On the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously open vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. To lay this row you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the diagram, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer operation. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Next, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed to the prepared area using a clay-sand mortar. A row is laid out from 10 bricks.
	14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the “ceiling” of the cooking chamber, the second is rotated towards the first and installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (the size of a brick), and the third corner is pressed with its back side against the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. When laying it out, 12 bricks cover the cooking chamber, but above it a steam exhaust hole is formed into which the valve will be installed. To install this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is secured to the prepared site using clay mortar.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented diagram. At this stage, the installed valve is closed and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is cramped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney pipe. For laying you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Next, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With its help, a chimney hole is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob.
	On the 22nd row, the brickwork is covered with a metal plate. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the channel openings remain open. Then a metal corner is installed on the outside of the oven, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. Laying a row will require 15 bricks.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the diagram, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the back wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, to direct the smoke in the desired direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. To lay a row you will need 11 bricks.
	On the 27th row, two vertical channels are combined using masonry, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The back wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. A row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, masonry is performed according to a pattern similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners cover the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is installed in accordance with the diagram. Only the hole above the drying chamber is left open, where the valve will be installed in the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the prepared “nest” on the clay mortar. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the oven. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick.
	On the 31÷32nd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If you decide to do it yourself, then the work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Provided you follow all the recommendations and the provided ordering diagram, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of laying a miniature brick oven for a country house.

Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen