Stove passage through the wall. Which chimney is better to make in a wooden house? What type of chimney can be routed through the wall?

When building a house, it is important to immediately think about how the internal systems, providing heating, drainage, smoke removal, etc. The smoke channel is laid simultaneously with the construction of walls and ceilings. Very often people think about where it will be when the house has already been built. In this case, lay the chimney through the wall. How to properly remove a chimney through a wall is described below.

Basic withdrawal rules

One of the main questions when building an exhaust system is how to properly organize the exhaust of the chimney through the wall.

When venting the chimney through the wall, it is very important to maintain an angle of 90 degrees. The next structural element is installed perpendicular to the previous one. I attached a condensate collector at the bottom, and all the main elements at the top.

Diagram of chimney outlet options

The resulting passage through the wall is carefully insulated. Be sure to seal all joints (where various elements are fastened) with clamps.

Another important nuance is the correct and reliable fastening of the chimney to the wall. At one time, they promptly suggested to me that it was necessary to fasten at approximately equal intervals. In my opinion, the most suitable distance for installing fasteners is 50-60 cm.

It is imperative to insulate the pipe from the wall. The best option– high quality and affordable – this is basalt fiber. The final stage - the “neck” of the chimney is covered with a special cap.

Installation through a wooden wall

If you have a wooden house or bathhouse, you need to know exactly how to remove the chimney through the wall. The main problem is the issue of security. But if you approach the matter correctly, then even a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall, where there will be a constant difference in high temperatures, will serve reliably and for a long time.

I'll tell you about a few main rules. The pipe that stretches across the entire passage must be covered with a material that is resistant to high temperatures. This will help avoid deformation of the wood - and also avoid the risk of fire. I advise you to give preference to a vertical system (such as a potbelly stove, which is often used for heating garages).

The chimney is attached to the wall of a wooden house at a distance of 1 meter from each other. For wooden buildings I advise you to choose long, straight pipes: the absence of joints makes the structure stronger, plus it will be much easier to attach to the wall.

Advantages of an external chimney

The use of such a system will provide increased efficiency, and the light weight of the structure will help avoid installation problems. Although there is an opinion that a chimney in the wall of a house does not look aesthetically pleasing. But it ensures fire safety!

A clear advantage is that there is no need to make a passage through a wall, ceiling or roof. There is no need to further strengthen the foundation. In addition, a minimum of soot is deposited on the walls: and it is quite possible to remove it yourself.

Materials and tools for installation

If earlier chimneys were made of brick, now they choose, for example, a sandwich design. The advantages of this design are as follows:

Long service life (if you use stainless steel materials).
The overall weight is light, which simplifies installation.
And the third point, which is important for me personally: aesthetic appeal.

To install a sandwich chimney, the most important thing is to choose good materials. The integrity of the entire structure depends on how durable and resistant to high temperatures each pipe is. I recommend choosing those made from fire-resistant steel and galvanized metal.

In addition, we will need clamps, plugs, sealant (necessarily fire-resistant!), couplings, fastening elements. You will also need adapters, tees, and an elbow that will allow you to change the direction of the structure.

Main design elements

I propose to consider the main design elements using the example of a sandwich chimney:

One of the most important elements is pipes. Tees are also needed - they help to branch the smoke channel and connect the chimney directly to the firebox of the heating device.
Elbow - will be needed to make the necessary bend (bends at 45 and 90 degrees are most often used).

The support console - in fact, the entire structure will be supported on it and is attached to the wall or floor. Plus the clamps are needed for fastening and fixing to the wall.
Inspection tee - for cleaning pipes from soot.
Condensate collector.
The mouth is the final element of the structure.

Installation instructions

The starting point should be the heating device itself. Simply put, they begin to install the structure from the bottom up - from the fireplace. First, the pipe is connected to the boiler pipe and secured with a plug.

We carefully insert the inner pipes into each other. Then we put on the outer part.
Strengthen the tees with support brackets. All joints are strengthened with clamps.
I recommend installing a condensate collector on the lower part of the structure to prevent precipitation from getting inside the pipes.
Sealed couplings are installed solely at will - you can do without them. They are needed if the system operates under high pressure.
When the system is almost assembled, you can carefully treat the pipes with a protective sealant.

If you doubt that it will be difficult to install the system yourself, it is better to immediately seek help. It’s always easier to immediately learn how to do it right than to have to do it all over again later, taking into account the mistakes made.

How to properly remove a chimney through a wall?
How to properly remove a chimney through a wall? When building a house, it is important to immediately think about how the internal systems will be installed to provide heating, drainage, smoke exhaust, etc. Smoke

Many questions and problems arise at the moment when it is necessary to make a passage chimney through the wall.

When designing this stage of work, a large number of factors should be taken into account, including:

Wall structure,
Materials used,
Pipe exit location
Diameter of the chimney opening.

Diagram of the pipe exit from the furnace through the wall

Before figuring out how to remove a chimney pipe through a wooden or concrete wall, you should carefully study the diagram of the pipe exit from the stove.

Below is a diagram of the output of a double-walled chimney through the wall:

Options for venting the chimney through the wall

What chimneys can be routed through the wall?

As building material Usually black steel or a stainless steel alloy is used, since this metal is most protected from the destructive effects of hazardous factors and smoke components.

Calculations and installation rules

Installation rules imply careful consideration of all stages of future work:

You should make sure that the pipe itself will not come into contact with any flammable materials, which, under the influence of high temperatures, may begin to smolder and release toxic fumes.
When installing the system directly externally, it is necessary to remember the deflection angles, which will act as active guides for smoke removal. The chimney pipe should not be located parallel to the wall of the house, since in this case smoke stasis will occur - it simply will not be removed from the system.
Special tees must be installed in the lower and side parts of the pipe, which will be used as a place to install mechanisms for condensate drainage. If this step is not completed, then moisture when lighting a fireplace or stove will simply enter the firebox and extinguish the flame. All this will significantly complicate the kindling process!
The upper part of the pipe should rise above the edge of the roof to ensure that smoke and soot are blown away in an area of more rarefied air. Typically, such zones are formed at a distance of 15-25 cm from the roof sheet.

How to install a chimney?

The chimney installation process is divided into several main stages, which consist of:

Preparatory work
Installation of fastening elements,
The actual installation of the chimney.

General stages of work:

You need to drill a hole in the wall through which the chimney itself will exit, using a special tool. Modern models have adjustable nozzles and active cooling systems to prevent the appearance of cracks on the surface of the facade.

Passage through concrete/brick wall. Concrete and brick walls represent the most comfortable material, which does not require additional processing. It is recommended to additionally putty the place where the hole was created in order to eliminate the possibility of rapid degradation of the wall of the room.
Passage through a wooden wall

When working with wooden surfaces, care must be taken to protect against overheating. Hot air passes through the pipe, which can cause materials to unintentionally ignite.

Ceramic mixtures, heat-resistant insulating materials and even glass wool are often used as insulating materials. You should not skimp on thermal insulation, as the consequences can be very sad!

The nuances of installing the passage of the chimney through a wooden wall

How to lead the pipe from the furnace through the wall?
Diagram of the chimney outlet through the wall. Step-by-step instruction on installation and installation work. What pipes should I use? Advantages and disadvantages of the method.

The need to vent a chimney through a wall arises when installing heating equipment in an already built house. Proper selection of the design, material, and trajectory of the chimney becomes a guarantee of effective heating of the premises. Also, an important component of the flawless operation of the heating system is compliance with the installation algorithm established on the basis of practical experience and regulatory documents.

Functionality and design features

The optimal chimney length range is 5 – 10 meters. An indicator below the minimum value makes traction difficult, and a pipe longer than the designated 10 meters will provoke excessive combustion, increasing fuel consumption.

Chimney through the wall to the street

Since the smoothness of the internal planes of the chimney makes it possible to increase its durability due to a slight accumulation of soot, consumers are increasingly choosing a single-layer steel pipe, which successfully replaces brick counterparts. The installation of a chimney is simplified if its modern design is used: two steel pipes nested one inside the other with an insulating layer of stone wool between them.

This system has proven its practicality, since no negative condensation forms inside, and the outer surfaces receive slight heating.

When making a chimney outlet through a wall with its subsequent installation outside the house, it is necessary to consider the design of the protective box. It is advisable to make it brick, or use plasterboard, supplemented with fire-resistant thermal insulation.

Basic installation steps

When installing a smoke exhaust pipe through a wall, it is necessary to follow a certain sequence.

In the place of the wall where the pipe is planned to pass, there should be no internal communications and wires.
Markings are made on the wall and a hole of the required size is prepared.
The pipe is installed and fixed in the prepared hole. The passage in the wall is lined with fire-resistant insulating material, and the top is covered with a casing or plastered.
The chimney is connected to the heating device by joining a three-section elbow with a tee using a transition element.

Chimney tee and its dimensions

In order to change the vector of the chimney to a vertical direction after leaving the wall, take a tee equipped with a cleaning cup, which is fixed with a bracket. Experts do not recommend making a horizontal section installed in a wall passage over one meter, as this can reduce traction. If conditions do not allow this requirement to be met, the total length of the chimney is increased to compensate.
It must be taken into account that a pipe that has a passage through a wall can be directed at an angle, the angle of which is determined technical characteristics heating device. This circumstance must be given attention so as not to degrade the performance of the equipment.
Then the installation of the remaining part of the pipe continues, running vertically up along the wall. To keep it securely, there is a stand at the bottom on which the chimney rests.

Installation of chimney fasteners

The fastening elements intended for fixing the chimney to the wall have a pitch of 60–100 cm. Once the pipe has been brought to the design height, a cone-shaped element is attached to the top to protect against possible ingress of debris. In the gap between the wall and the chimney, a layer of mineral heat insulator, for example, basalt wool, is attached. The top of the chimney is also insulated and sheathed with a casing made of fire-resistant and corrosion-resistant materials.

Features of working with wooden walls

Arranging a chimney in wooden house, it is necessary to take into account that its installation here has some features.

When making a passage through a wall, you need to additionally protect the pipe by covering it with fire-resistant bricks or asbestos. This measure is mandatory according to regulations fire safety, and it will also avoid drying out wood fibers from heating at the point of contact with the chimney.

Chimney passage through a wooden wall

When starting installation, we select chimneys from a range of three-layer products, abandoning the single-layer steel chimney, which gets very hot. It is recommended to design a horizontal section of short length.

The vertical part, optimally, should be flat without turns. The chimney design must have dampers to regulate the intensity of combustion. If all requirements are met, the heating device will function efficiently and in a safe manner.

If the wooden structure is finished with siding, then a gap to the chimney of ≥ 15 cm is provided. This is due to the fact that the temperature range regulated by manufacturers for this finishing material, ranges from minus 50 degrees to plus fifty degrees. The entire passage is protected by fire-resistant heat-insulating material.

When venting the chimney through the wall, it is recommended to orient it towards the gable side so as not to make additional holes in the roof. If the heating device in the house is located in such a way that the pipe can only be removed from the side where the roof slope is located, then a support stand may be needed. The chimney is fixed to it using sliding fasteners.

Connecting the roof to a round pipe

If the roof overhang is > 40 cm, a rack may not be needed, since the chimney passes through a hole cut in the roof. Additional fixation of the pipe is also done here. It must be taken into account that there should be no joints in this place individual elements chimney. Above the hole it is necessary to equip devices that retain snow. They will protect the chimney from excessive pressure from snow layers that can cause damage.

Vertical and horizontal chimneys

For boilers with forced draft, it is possible to install simply a horizontal pipe, which should be routed through a passage in the wall in the same way as chimneys that also have a vertical part.

During the construction process, you can install a convenient chimney design in the wall, which is a shaft lined with brick. A pipe attached to the heating device is placed here. This scheme saves a lot of space.

If the installation of a universal chimney in the wall is carried out in the partition between rooms, then it becomes additional source lung comfortable warmth. In order to correctly connect the heating equipment, it is necessary to make a sufficiently spacious passage in the shaft wall and install a pipe, joining its horizontal and vertical parts. Typically used for insulation stone wool.

Installation diagram of a chimney through a wall
How to install a chimney through a wall - functionality, design features, main installation stages, features of working with wooden walls, recommendations from specialists.

There was also a simpler option - made from a metal pipe, but additional difficulties arose with it. And how good it is now that sandwich pipes for chimneys have appeared.

What are the advantages

The advantages of sandwich pipes include:

light weight,
versatility of use, which allows them to be used with any heating devices,
attractive appearance,
durability and resistance to destructive factors,
reliability in terms of no risk of fire,
thanks to the smoothness inner surface pipes can rarely be cleaned of soot,
ease of assembly,
quickly cools the smoke inside the chimney,
Suitable for both indoor and outdoor use.

It is clear that the stainless steel from which the pipe is made makes the price quite high, and this is a relative disadvantage. And improper installation over time can cause the loss of tightness of the structure. But if the first one pays off with a long service life, then the second one depends only on who will do the installation.

It is important to know

Before starting the installation, you should familiarize yourself with some subtleties. For example, it is important to know that the larger the structure area inside the room, the less heat loss there will be. When creating a detailed diagram, take into account the fact that smooth horizontal sections should be up to one meter. Please note that contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if on the way to place the chimney there are wooden parts, then the pipe must be moved away from them using special steel brackets. The distance between fastenings should not exceed one meter.

Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or insert with a door through which inspection and cleaning of soot will be possible. Of course, installing a sandwich chimney is a serious and responsible matter, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.

In the finished building, a chimney is installed through a wall made of sandwich pipes. To do this, measures are taken to protect the wall from the high temperature of the chimney. It’s good if the house is new and it is possible to install the system indoors. But in a wooden house you cannot do without insulating materials. And it doesn’t matter what you choose for this purpose: mineral wool or asbestos, but you will have to do it. These are the fire safety standards for log houses.

Already at the stage of purchasing pipes, you should have a diagram and calculations on hand. A short chimney will not have draft, and often smoke and soot will return indoors, and if it is too long, this will speed up the process of fuel combustion and heat will escape into the atmosphere. The optimal length of the system is considered to be in the range from 5 to 10 meters. In addition to the chimney itself, you will need various tees, pipes, elbows and fasteners.

It's clear that perfect option- this is the passage of a pipe through a roof or wall, and it does not matter whether it is taken into account by the building design. This guarantees your safety. But if it doesn’t work out, then we look for an area on the wall where there are no other technological structures nearby. Experts advise to retreat at least 40 cm from any communication, and if this is not possible, then provide additional insulation.

Different walls have their own installation secrets

If you have walls made of logs, then pre-drill the necessary holes, larger in diameter than the pipe itself. Round shape holes will help create special drill. And now, in order:

First method: you will need several heat-insulated pipes of a larger diameter than the chimney, inserted alternately into each other,
The second option: we run the chimney through the wall, laying out the space between them with high-quality thermal insulation.

Passing through a brick or twin block wall is done like this. First, markings are made taking into account the appearance of cracks from the holes made. In order to avoid this kind of problem, place a special metal carcass. Free space near the pipe you need to fill it with fireproof material and put up shields that will close the transition. The main difficulty is just getting through the wall, and then assembling the structure is quite simple. Have you collected it? We fix it on the wall.

It is clear that when they mount experienced craftsmen, then there is no doubt about safety and reliability, but if you decide to do it yourself, then just remember the responsibility entrusted to you for the lives of those who will live in this house.

Step-by-step installation of a chimney made of sandwich pipes through a wall
In the foreseeable past, no one would have thought that installing chimneys would be within the capabilities of everyone. And it’s clear why this is so. Previously, only a stove maker knew how to correctly create a structure from bricks of the required shape and size. Such knowledgeable people were highly valued.

When building a house, it is important to immediately think about how the internal systems will be installed to provide heating, drainage, smoke exhaust, etc. The smoke channel is laid simultaneously with the construction of walls and ceilings. Very often people think about where it will be when the house has already been built. In this case, lay the chimney through the wall. How to properly remove a chimney through a wall is described below.

Basic withdrawal rules

One of the main questions when building an exhaust system is how to properly organize the chimney outlet through the wall.

Diagram of chimney outlet options

The resulting passage through the wall is carefully insulated. Be sure to seal all joints (where various elements are fastened) with clamps.

It is imperative to insulate the pipe from the wall. The best option – high quality and affordable – is basalt fiber. The final stage - the “neck” of the chimney is covered with a special cap.

Installation through a wooden wall

The chimney is attached to the wall of a wooden house at a distance of 1 meter from each other. For wooden buildings, I advise you to choose long, straight pipes: the absence of joints makes the structure stronger, plus it will be much easier to attach to the wall.

Advantages of an external chimney

Materials and tools for installation

If earlier chimneys were made of brick, now they choose, for example, a sandwich design. The advantages of this design are as follows:

Long service life (if you use stainless steel materials).
The overall weight is light, which simplifies installation.
And the third point, which is important for me personally: aesthetic appeal.

In addition, we will need clamps, plugs, sealant (necessarily fire-resistant!), couplings, fastening elements. You will also need adapters, tees, and an elbow that will allow you to change the direction of the structure.

Main design elements

I propose to consider the main design elements using the example of a sandwich chimney:

One of the most important elements is pipes. Tees are also needed - they help to branch the smoke channel and connect the chimney directly to the firebox of the heating device.
Elbow - will be needed to make the necessary bend (bends at 45 and 90 degrees are most often used).

The support console - in fact, the entire structure will be supported on it and is attached to the wall or floor. Plus the clamps are needed for fastening and fixing to the wall.
Inspection tee - for cleaning pipes from soot.
Condensate collector.
The mouth is the final element of the structure.

Installation instructions

We carefully insert the inner pipes into each other. Then we put on the outer part.
Strengthen the tees with support brackets. All joints are strengthened with clamps.
I recommend installing a condensate collector on the lower part of the structure to prevent precipitation from getting inside the pipes.
Sealed couplings are installed solely at will - you can do without them. They are needed if the system operates under high pressure.
When the system is almost assembled, you can carefully treat the pipes with a protective sealant.

Video “How to remove a fireplace chimney?”

The video clearly demonstrates how to route a chimney through a wall using sandwich pipes.

Creating a chimney system in a wooden house is a more responsible and serious task than installing chimneys in brick buildings. Too much needs to be thought through so that the system not only functions correctly (has good traction), but also is as tight and safe as possible, so that there is no risk of fire.

There are several options to solve this problem. Below we will consider the most basic of them.

Which chimney is suitable for a wooden building?

For wooden buildings, you can use any type of chimney: there are no restrictions in this regard, the only nuance is the highest quality implementation. The most popular are chimneys made of stainless steel, ceramics and brick.

You need to immediately make a reservation about a brick chimney: such pipes are highly susceptible to damage from condensation. Therefore, it is strictly not recommended to install them without preliminary planning of the insulation system, without a condensate drain and without a liner inside. In addition, brick pipes become clogged the most quickly: due to the porous surface of the brick itself and the mortar between it, as well as because of the gaps between the bricks. As a result, such systems need to be cleaned more often, and in addition, this is more difficult to do (than cleaning a chimney with a smooth wall surface).

If you need to save money, then stainless steel is the cheapest and fastest to install. Steel pipes are much less exposed to moisture, become dirty more slowly (since their walls are smooth) and are easier to clean.

Ceramic is used less frequently: it is both a more expensive and more difficult to install option. However, ceramic pipes can last longer than stainless steel pipes if used properly.

The best option if a wooden house is being built for long-term living (that is, if it is a cottage and not a summer cottage): a brick shaft with a stainless sleeve inside. Such a chimney will last a long time, and can be easily repaired if necessary (the inner liner is simply replaced with a new one).

Where to mount: inside or outside?

It is important to think about where exactly the smoke exhaust duct will be located. In most cases, it is recommended to install it outside, but installation inside is also possible.

If you make a chimney from the inside, then if it is necessary to install or repair it, the amount of work will be much larger, and it will be more difficult to complete it. In this case you will have to violate interior decoration premises. In addition, such systems are more difficult to monitor because they are invisible to the eye (at least most of them).

It is better to vent the chimney from the outside because:

does not occupy the area inside the house (even if it is small space, but it is released);
if the chimney needs to be repaired or replaced, there will be no need to dismantle the wall inside the house (that is, there will be no need to move furniture and then redo the finishing);
no need to make a passage through the floors and roof;
a pipe located outside is much simpler and easier to monitor: if any problems arise, they can be noticed much earlier than if it ran in the wall.

Of the minuses: the pipe will have to be insulated along its entire length (while internal chimneys need to be insulated only in cold areas: in an unheated attic, above and below the roof). However, this is still easier to do than installing the shaft inside the house.

Basic rules and regulations for installation

There are standards and rules for installing chimneys in wooden buildings. It is imperative to follow them, otherwise serious problems may arise: fire may occur. wooden materials, rapid failure of the chimney, depressurization.

Basic rules and regulations:

When passing through wooden elements, it is imperative to maintain a minimum distance of 38 centimeters from the internal chimney pipe to flammable structures (such as wood or some fabric elements, for example). This space must be completely filled with non-flammable elements.
If the pipe is laid through wooden elements specially protected from fire, then the distance between them and the chimney can be reduced to 25 centimeters ( but not recommended).
It is necessary to properly seal the structure and conduct a full analysis of its condition before putting it into operation. Any cracks and cracks need to be patched, even the most minimal ones - they can cause depressurization in the future.
It is recommended to line the smoke duct in advance during the construction of the house, which will allow you to insure against possible depressurization and fire.

Stages of installation of a brick chimney

A brick chimney is most often used for stoves, in cottages, in bathhouses, in small private houses, and sometimes in the country. The installation diagram is full of nuances, so first you need to consider a few important points:

the laying must be done with dressing, carried out using lime or cement-lime (will be more expensive) mortar, and when laying above the roof, you need to use cement mortar;
for work you need to use solid red brick;
the seam should be no more than 10 millimeters, plastering the inside is prohibited;
holes must be made in the side walls to improve air circulation;
wooden floors in the indentation must be covered with adjacent bricks or tiles;
if the entire structure has a large mass, it is necessary to build a foundation.

remember, that brickwork is most susceptible to destruction due to condensation. Also remember that due to the roughness of the brick, soot will accumulate much faster inside the chimney pipe, and it will have to be cleaned more often.

Conducting a smoke exhaust through the roof (if you are building a shaft inside the house) is carried out according to the following rules:

when leading the pipe through the ceiling, make sure that the distance between the outer part of the pipe and the wooden rafters is at least 130 mm (all this space should be filled with basalt or stone wool, made without an organic binder);
when installing a roof made of potentially flammable materials, you need to increase the distance to 260 millimeters;
at the outlet site it is necessary to make a covering using fireproof materials (slate can be used, but roofing steel is better) - at a distance of at least 500 mm from the pipe, followed by adjustment to the otter.

Regulations on the height of the pipe above the roof:

If it is located near the ridge or flat roof– height may be less than 500 mm.
If it is located above the ridge of the roof and the length of the axis of the chimney pipe is less than 1500 mm from the parapet or ridge, the distance must be at least 500 mm.
Not lower than the abstract line, which goes down at an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge to the horizon, when the smoke exhaust axis exits more than 3000 mm from the ridge.

Stages of installing a stainless steel chimney

Metal chimneys have a huge number of advantages over brick ones, which is why they have been installed much more often lately. It is worth noting their most important advantages:

extremely convenient and quick installation (compared to brick and ceramic);
there is no need to prepare a foundation, since the entire structure is lightweight;
the internal surfaces of the metal chimney pipe are smooth, so soot does not accumulate on them and, as a result, draft does not decrease;
The internal channel of the chimney pipe is made of acid-resistant stainless steel, which ensures long-term operation and safety of use.

It is important to select a stainless steel chimney based on the table of its thickness relative to the temperature of the flue gases. The regulations are as follows:

Thickness from 0.5 mm - for gas, pellet and diesel boilers.
Thickness from 0.8 to 1 mm - on stoves (including bathhouses) and fireplaces.
Thickness from 1 mm – for coal-fired boilers.

If the chimney is installed for coal-fired stoves, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be no more than 100 millimeters. If we are talking about an automated boiler, then the thickness should not exceed 50 millimeters.

A few nuances about the roof passage:

the distance from the chimney pipe to the tree must be no less than 250 millimeters on both sides, the pipe opening and the chimney on top are covered with a roof;
from above the roof must be placed under slate or tiles;
you need to mount a comfrey on top of the roof and clamp it with a clamp (to protect it from precipitation);
the free space between the chimney and the rafters must be filled with basalt wool and the structure must be covered from below with a metal reflector.

Stages of installation of a ceramic chimney

Installation of a ceramic chimney is easier than with a brick one, but a little more complicated than with a stainless steel one.

Installation rules:

Considering that the ceramic chimney is represented by a modular system, its installation is carried out from prefabricated segments of complete factory readiness. That is, in essence, you just need to assemble the pipe from bottom to top, and attach it to the wall.
The inner tube must be made of heat-resistant and acid-resistant ceramics.
Given the large mass of the structure, it is necessary to prepare a foundation for it (this is the main requirement).

This type has become very popular lately, including due to its high resistance to negative environmental factors.

Installation of a chimney in a wooden house (video)

The chimney is an important part of the proper arrangement of a stove, solid fuel or gas boiler. The efficiency of the heating device and the fire safety of the heating system depend on its correct design and installation.

Chimneys in a house, especially a wooden one, or in a bathhouse must be made of various fire-resistant materials. Brick chimneys are resistant to high temperatures, durable and aesthetically pleasing, but at the same time the porous and heterogeneous structure of the brick contributes to the accumulation of moisture and the deposition of combustion products - soot and soot. As a result, the lumen of the chimney becomes overgrown, draft deteriorates, and operation of the stove becomes unsafe. It is especially undesirable to use brick chimneys in systems for removing smoke from solid fuel, including pellet, boilers with a closed combustion chamber.

Ferrous metal pipes are not recommended for use in wooden houses and bathhouses, as well as when installing a gas or solid fuel boiler: they become very hot and quickly burn out, which can lead to a fire. Sometimes chimneys from such pipes are installed in brick garages and other utility rooms, but even there they are ineffective, as they are susceptible to corrosion and condensation.

The most successful solution is insulated sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel and ceramics. The round cross-section of the pipes facilitates the passage of smoke and provides good draft. Less soot deposits on a smooth inner surface. Due to insulation, the formation of condensation is eliminated. Thanks to the modular system, their installation is easy to do yourself. Structurally, sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel and ceramics are somewhat different.

Ceramic sandwich chimney is a system of modules, each of which consists of an internal ceramic pipe element and a hollow foam block. For thermal insulation they are separated by a layer basalt insulation. The modules are supplied disassembled and assembled on site using special glue and sealant. To install a ceramic chimney, a foundation is required due to their significant weight.

Stainless steel sandwich chimneys sold in the form of ready-made modules. They are two pipes of different diameters, nested one inside the other, and separated by a layer of insulation. The inner pipe is made of stainless steel, the outer pipe can be made of either stainless steel or galvanized sheet. They assemble much faster than ceramic ones. In addition, due to its light weight, a stainless steel chimney does not require a foundation.

Ceramic chimneys are superior to all others in fire resistance; they can withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees Celsius for a long time; some models are equipped with ventilation systems. The service life of such chimneys is at least 50 years. But the price of ceramic chimneys is high, so their installation is only advisable in residential buildings, cottages and other permanent buildings.

General installation rules

To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney from the grate of the heating unit must be at least 5 meters.
The chimney located at the ridge should rise 0.5 m above it; in other cases, its height is determined according to the diagram below.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the buildings standing next to the house or bathhouse; the chimney outlet should be 1.5 m higher than their roof.
If, as a result of calculations, the height of the chimney above the roof is more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to provide in advance for attaching it with guy wires to rigid structural elements.
If the roof material is flammable - ondulin, roofing felt, soft roof, then the top of the chimney must be equipped with a spark arrester - a special module with a 5x5 mm mesh.
The smoke channel cannot be narrowed; for example, for a stove with a smoke pipe of 120 mm, modules with an internal diameter of 110 mm cannot be installed. Widening is permitted, but special adapters must be used.
The length of horizontal sections should not exceed 1 m. If the vertical pipe is located at a greater distance from the heating device, it is necessary to use bends at 45 degrees.
Bends, tees and other adapters of sandwich chimneys must be unloaded - installed so that they do not bear the weight of the higher structure. Support platforms are used for this.
All module joints must be accessible for inspection. They should not be placed in areas of ceilings. To meet this requirement, it is necessary to select the length of the straight sections of the chimney.

Correct assembly sequence

First, connect the outlet pipe of the boiler or stove to the lower element of the chimney - a single-layer uninsulated pipe. It can consist of several modules and be vertical, horizontal or bent by 45 or 90 degrees.
To switch to an insulated pipe, use an adapter. It is put on an uninsulated pipe, coating the joint with a special sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 1300 degrees Celsius.

Further assembly is done with your own hands from insulated elements. They are inserted into each other so that the upper part fits over the lower part. The top can be determined by the edge of the pipe - it is wavy, which makes joining easier. With this installation, the internal channel is connected “along the smoke”, that is, the direction of the joints is located so as not to interfere with the smoke flows inside. All elements are connected with heat-resistant sealant.

According to the location of installation, smoke exhaust systems are divided into internal, passing through the interfloor ceilings and roof, and external, located near the outer wall of the building. In this case, the chimney outlet is made through the wall of the house or bathhouse.

The part passing through heated rooms can be made of a single stainless pipe - its surface becomes very hot when fuel burns and additionally gives off heat. When passing through an unheated attic in a house or bathhouse or outside, the chimney requires mandatory insulation, so sandwich modules are used for this part of it.
A direct chimney can rest directly on a heating device - a stove, a pellet boiler. If there are branches or bends, it is necessary to install support platforms at the floor level, at least every 5 meters.

At outdoor installation the system is secured using wall fastenings - brackets with clamps. They are sold complete with chimneys. The lower part of the chimney is supported by a cantilever bracket.
The pipe is equipped with cleaning facilities in places convenient for access. They are a tee with a plug placed on the outlet. If necessary, remove the plug and inspect and clean the smoke channel from soot. A plug with a condensate receiver is installed at the bottom of the pipe.

The greatest attention should be paid to passages through walls, ceilings and roofs. For them, special modules are used: “passage through the ceiling” and “passage through the roof”. The top of the pipe is equipped with an umbrella to ensure fire safety, improve draft and ventilation.

In a wooden house

Before installing a smoke removal system with your own hands, you need to study the fire safety requirements for chimneys installed in a wooden house.

the distance from the uninsulated chimney to any combustible surfaces must be at least 25 cm horizontally and 80 cm vertically;
passages of the chimney through the roofs must be carried out using passage units - metal boxes filled with heat-insulating material, usually basalt mats;
in case of connecting several smoke channels into one, it is advisable to place vertical chimney in a separate box made of non-flammable material, for example, foam concrete.

An inspection of all sections of a stainless steel chimney in a wooden house must be carried out at least twice a year! If external damage, discoloration of steel, or rust is detected, you must ensure the integrity of the inner pipe - it could burn out!

WITH simple designs smokehouses for cold smoking and methods of their manufacture at home and in camping conditions can be found
All stages of manufacturing a smoke generator for cold smoking are described in detail in the following article:

In the bath

Bathhouse is a place of increased fire danger. Heat wooden surfaces in the bath it reaches 90-100 degrees, and the temperature at which wood begins to char is 120-150 degrees with prolonged exposure. Wooden elements located near the chimney heat up the most. Therefore, fire safety distances must be strictly observed.

The sequence of installation of passages through the wall and ceiling in the bathhouse, which can also be used in the house, is shown in the video.

Since the largest part of heat loss in wooden bath occurs through ceilings, the pipe is often routed through walls.

Chimney for buleryan

Connecting a buleryan to a chimney with your own hands is generally no different from other types of heating devices, but it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the combustion mode in this type of stove.

Thanks to the effective afterburning of flue gases, their temperature at the outlet of the furnace does not exceed 200 degrees. As it moves through the pipe, it decreases even more, the pipe warms up weakly, which is why condensation can form on the walls of the pipe. When soot is deposited on wet walls, carbonic acid is formed, which negatively affects materials such as brick, ferrous metal, and asbestos.

recommended height - from 3 to 4 meters;
the length of the horizontal section is strictly no more than 1 meter;
the material of the internal surface must be resistant to acid - sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel or ceramics;
It is recommended to insulate all sections of the chimney except the exit from the buleryan;
The chimney must be equipped with a condensate collector and cleaning.

Effective operation of the buleryan is only possible with access to fresh air into the firebox, so it is advisable to use a modular ceramic chimney with channels for ventilation; its installation, thanks to the prefabricated modular design, can be done with your own hands.

For solid fuel boilers

Regular solid fuel boilers Those burning coal, wood or having a pellet burner are characterized by high flue gas temperatures. Pyrolysis boilers with the regime long burning They burn the combustion products contained in the smoke more efficiently, therefore they have a lower outlet temperature, and, like buleryan, they are prone to increased condensation.

boiler type;
location and diameter of the smoke pipe;
flue gas temperature;
recommended chimney height to ensure good draft;
the need for additional ventilation.

You should also inspect the boiler design and evaluate the difficulty of cleaning the smoke pipe. If access to it from inside the boiler is difficult, it is necessary to provide an inspection tee in the immediate vicinity of the boiler outlet.

If the pellet boiler is equipped with a closed combustion chamber, it would be more advisable to install a coaxial chimney with a ventilation system.

For gas boilers

Gas boilers belong to heating units with a closed combustion chamber, so for them the most effective would be to install a coaxial chimney. It is a structure consisting of two pipes of different diameters, with the smaller pipe inserted into the larger one and secured in it with jumpers.

Along the internal contour of the coaxial pipe, flue gases are discharged from the combustion chamber of the gas boiler to the street, and air moves in the opposite direction through the gap between the chimney pipes. It enters the combustion chamber and supports combustion, without taking air from the room where the gas boiler is installed, which significantly improves the microclimate in the house and eliminates the installation of an additional ventilation system.

Air is a good heat insulator, so the outer surface of the coaxial chimney heats up slightly. At the same time, in ventilation duct the air is heated and enters the combustion chamber of the gas boiler already warm, which increases the efficiency of the boiler.

Installation of a coaxial chimney for a gas boiler is most often done through a wall, less often through ceilings and a roof, as this increases costs. Safe distances from building structures when installing a coaxial chimney are shown in the picture.

Video about installing a coaxial chimney

When installing a conventional sandwich chimney on a gas boiler, you need to make an additional system yourself supply ventilation, since the oxygen necessary for combustion will be absorbed from the air.

Correct installation of a chimney is the key to long and safe operation of the heating system both in the house and in the bathhouse. It is possible to do it yourself, but if you have even the slightest doubt about your abilities, it is better to entrust this task to professionals. They will make calculations and help you choose best view chimney, a gas exhaust and ventilation system will be installed, and the owner of the house will only have to independently inspect and clean the chimney.

IN last years More and more chimneys are being made from sandwich pipes. The point is a relatively low price, long service life, and quite attractive appearance. It is also important that it is possible self-installation sandwich chimney. This is not a very simple matter - there are many nuances, but you can do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they?

The sandwich pipe was named so for its multi-layer nature: there are two layers of metal, between which there is insulation. This structure solves many of the problems that were inherent in a simple chimney made of a metal pipe. Firstly, the insulation layer does not allow the outer metal casing to heat up to critical temperatures, and hard radiation does not emit from the pipe. More comfortable conditions are created indoors. Secondly, the same insulation significantly reduces the amount of condensation that forms when the pipe is brought outside. Thirdly, since the outer casing is no longer at such a high temperature, it is easier to make the chimney pass through the roof or wall.

A sandwich pipe is two metal cylinders, the space between which is filled with insulation.

What materials are they made from?

Sandwich pipes are made of galvanized or stainless steel. Galvanized sandwich pipes for chimneys are rarely used. Perhaps for the removal of combustion products from a low-power wall-mounted gas boiler or gas water heater. Can be used for insulated ventilation. They are not suitable for more serious heating devices - when high temperatures zinc burns out, steel quickly rusts, and the chimney becomes unusable.

Sandwich pipes for high-temperature flue gases are made of stainless steel. Moreover, stainless steel is used in different grades - from alloys with a small content of alloying metals to highly alloyed heat-resistant ones. The thickness of the metal can also be different - from 0.5 to 1 mm, as well as the thickness of the insulation - 30 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. It is clear that the scope of application will be different, and so will the price.

The main grades of steel that are used in the production of sandwich pipes for chimneys, their purpose and main characteristics are summarized in the table.

Stainless steel grade	Main characteristics	Application area
AISI 430	It has sufficient resistance to atmospheric influences, but does not tolerate high temperatures well	Used for outer casings of sandwich pipes
AISI 439	Contains titanium, which increases resistance to elevated temperatures and aggressive environments.	Suitable for gas boilers, low-power solid fuel units (up to 30 kW)
AISI 316	Alloying additives - nickel and molybdenum - provide high resistance to acids and increased heat resistance.	Optimal for gas boilers of any type.
AISI 304	Cheaper version of AISI 316 with fewer alloying additives	Economy option for gas boilers of medium and low power
AISI 316I, AISI 321	Withstands temperatures up to 850°C	Can be used for heating solid fuel stoves
AISI 310S	Increased heat resistance - up to 1000°C (and price)	For sauna and pyrolysis solid fuel stoves

As is clear from the table, different grades of stainless steel have different purposes. Cheaper alloys are used for the outer casing, more heat-resistant and expensive ones for the internal casing. This is necessary to reduce the cost of products, and high resistance to temperatures outside the chimney is not needed. There are even more budget options— the outer casing is made of galvanized steel. Externally, these products are inferior to stainless steel, but serve normally (with normal insulation and its thickness).

Insulation and its thickness

There is insulation between two layers of metal. Most often this is stone wool. The thickness of the insulation varies from 30 to 100 mm:

With 30 mm thick insulation, the flue gas temperature should not exceed 250°C. Such temperatures are only given gas boilers small and medium power.
A 50 mm insulation layer can withstand temperatures up to 400°C. Scope of application - any gas and liquid fuel boilers, wood-burning, provided that the chimney is vented to the street (through the wall).
A 100 mm layer of stone wool can withstand temperatures up to 850°C. Such a sandwich chimney can be installed on any type of solid fuel boiler, in fireplaces and hearths.

In addition to the thickness of the insulation, you need to pay attention to its brand, or rather, to the temperature range in which it can operate. Not every stone wool can withstand heating up to 850°C, but only some special brands. If you need a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, you will also have to take into account the heat resistance of the insulation.

Connection types

Sandwich chimney elements can be connected to each other in two ways: with sockets and corrugated edges. A socket connection requires a slightly wider chamfer on one side. With this design, a high degree of chimney tightness is achieved. This type of sandwich pipe is well suited for gas boilers, where it is important to prevent leakage. There is also a minus: installation requires high precision.

The corrugated edge of the sandwich allows you to assemble the chimney without problems. The disadvantage of this solution is that to ensure tightness, a significant amount of high-temperature sealant is required, and it costs a lot.

It is also worth paying attention to the longitudinal seam. It can be welded or folded. If the seam is welded, it must be made in an argon protective environment (so that alloyed metals do not burn out). This type of connection is necessary for solid fuel boilers, sauna stoves and fireplaces. For all others, you can use a seam connection.

Installation methods

There are two ways to vent the chimney outside. The first is to run the pipe through the wall, and then raise it along the outer wall to the required level. The second is up, through the ceiling and roof. Both are imperfect.

If the chimney is outdoors, condensation actively forms in it due to temperature changes. Therefore, a tee with a condensate collector (glass) and a cleaning hole must be installed in the lower part of the chimney. This unit allows you to maintain the chimney without much difficulty: the glass is unscrewed and the condensate is drained. Also, soot periodically gets knocked off without any problems - you can run a special chimney brush through the cleaning hole.

If the chimney will be discharged through the roof, several passage units will be needed - according to the number of ceilings. If the house is one-story, you will need one passage through the ceiling, and a second through the roof. You will also need a flash master or an apron for round pipe made of galvanized steel.

Installation of a sandwich chimney on the street requires only one passage unit - through the wall. But it will be necessary to attach it to the wall every 1.5-2 meters. If the walls of the building are flammable (wooden house or frame), the walls must be protected with a non-combustible screen.

By smoke or condensation

As mentioned above, one side of the sandwich pipe is slightly wider, the other is slightly narrower. Due to this difference in diameter, the modules are connected to one another. If the wider end is turned upward (in the figure on the right), the assembly is called “condensate”. With this installation method, drops of condensate flow down unhindered. The disadvantage of this method is that if the joints are not properly sealed, smoke can leak into microcracks. This type of sandwich chimney installation is used when the pipe is routed through a wall. This is where the free drainage of condensate is required, and small smoke leaks are not scary - they are not critical on the street.

If the narrower edge is turned upward, the second element is put on top of it with the wider part. This type of assembly is called “by smoke” (in the picture on the left). In this case, condensate flowing down the wall may leak through a joint that is not sealed well enough. But the smoke passes freely. This type of assembly is used if the pipe is coming indoors (exited through the roof). Condensation flowing through the pipe, of course, spoils the appearance, but it is not as dangerous as flue gases leaking into the room. Moreover, if the joints are well sealed, condensation will not leak out.

In order for the connection of the sandwich chimney modules to be reliable, each of them is usually coated with a heat-resistant sealant and then tightened with a clamp.

Options

Sandwich chimneys are good because they have a modular structure, which allows you to assemble any configuration, with any parameters. Before you go to the store, you need to know the required diameter of the chimney, the height of the pipe and those additional elements that will be needed.

Chimney diameter

When choosing the diameter of a sandwich pipe, a simple rule applies: it cannot be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe. If your outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the internal diameter of the sandwich should be the same or larger. It may be wider, but definitely not smaller, and the narrowing cannot be done along the entire length of the chimney. If the chimney is slightly wider than the pipe, an adapter is purchased, which is placed directly at the boiler outlet, and then the working size comes next.

If you don’t have a boiler yet, but you know its power, you can choose a chimney based on these data:

boiler power up to 3.5 kW - internal diameter of the sandwich - 80 mm;
from 3.5 kW to 5.2 kW - at least 95 mm;
more than 5.2 kW - 110 mm and more.

But it’s better to buy (or at least choose) a boiler, and then decide on the chimney, because many manufacturers insure themselves by making the outlet pipes wider to improve draft.

Pipe height

The height of the chimney above the roof surface depends on the location of its outlet, but its minimum height should be 5 m. That is, if the height of the house is small, in any case, install the pipe to a height of 5 meters. If the height of the house is higher than 5 m, then the pipe should rise above roofing material to the following height:

Should rise 50 cm above the ridge if it comes out at a distance of less than 150 cm from it.
If the distance from the ridge to the pipe is more than 300 cm, then the pipe may be lower than the ridge level, but the angle should be no more than 10° (see figure).
If the chimney exits at a distance of 150 to 300 cm from the ridge, its height can be at the same level as the ridge element or higher.

Under such conditions, normal traction is ensured. The smoke will go away normally regardless of weather conditions. To prevent leaves from getting into the chimney, they install special umbrellas, weather vanes, and in windy places - deflectors, which further improve draft.

If it is not possible to bring the pipe to such a height, they install a smoke exhauster - a forced draft is obtained. A fan will not be needed all the time, but in some conditions, when natural draft is not enough, forced exhaust saves the situation.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through a wall

When venting a chimney through a wall, there are two ways. The first option (pictured on the left) is to raise it in the room closer to the ceiling and take it out there. The second is to draw a conclusion at the level of the smoke pipe from the boiler. In this case, almost the entire chimney ends up on the street.

The second option is preferable - it has only one knee, which means, under equal conditions, the traction will be better. Also, with this structure there is less chance of soot plugs forming.

If the outlet of the smoke pipe is located not at the back of the stove, but at the top, the installation diagram changes slightly - a 90° elbow is added, then a straight section for passing through the wall, and then the same as in other diagrams.

The stove itself is placed on a non-flammable base, and the wall behind the stove is covered with a non-flammable screen. The easiest way is to fix a sheet of metal to the wall. It can be mounted on ceramic insulators 2.5-3 cm in height. There will be a layer of air between the sheet of metal and the wall, so the wall will be safe. The second option is to place a thermal insulation material under the metal - for example, mineral wool cardboard. Another option is an asbestos sheet (as in the photo).

A hole is made in the wall. Its dimensions are determined by SNiP - the distance from the pipe to non-combustible walls must be at least 250 mm on all sides, and to combustible walls - 450 mm. It turns out to be a solid hole, especially if we talk about walls made of flammable materials. There is one way to reduce the size of the opening for the passage of the sandwich: make the dimensions according to the standards of non-combustible walls and sheathe the opening with non-combustible material.

The opening can be round or square, as long as fire safety standards are met. Square holes are easier to make and cover, which is why they are made more often.

A passage unit is inserted into this hole - a box made of non-combustible material. The sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into it and fixed in the center. All gaps are filled with heat-resistant insulation, the hole is closed on both sides with non-combustible material. This is usually a sheet of metal.

One important point: the chimney must be designed so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and serviceable.

Next, you need to make or install a ready-made support bracket that will support the entire weight of the pipe. The design may differ in details, but the main idea is the same - a support platform, which, with the help of stops, transfers weight to the wall.

Homemade support platform for an external sandwich chimney from corners 50*50 mm and 40*40 mm

A similar structure can be welded from profile pipe small section 25*25 mm or 25*40 mm.

As you can see, a tee is connected to the pipe that goes through the wall. At the bottom there is a removable glass in which condensation accumulates. Some models have a fitting at the bottom with a small tap. This is even more convenient - you don’t need to remove the glass, you can connect a hose to the fitting, drain it into some container (it is very toxic, so there is no need to drain it near the house) and drain it by simply turning the tap.

Next, the tube is brought to the required level. Since in this case the distance to the ridge will clearly be more than 3 m, it is possible for the height of the chimney to be slightly lower than the ridge - no lower than 10° relative to horizontal line, drawn from the level of the ridge.

But since this house is located in a low area; to ensure traction, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge. It was attached to the wall with stainless steel clamps, in increments of a little more than a meter. The roof is equipped with guy wires made of steel rods with a diameter of 6 mm. To install guy wires, there are special clamps “with ears” to which the guy wires are attached.

Attaching guy wires to a chimney from sandwich tubes

Another important point that many people forget: at the place where the pipe is installed, a snow retention section must be installed on the roof, otherwise in the spring the pipe may be blown away by snow (if the pipe is not routed towards the gable, as in the photo).

How to install a chimney through the roof

When venting a chimney from sandwich pipes through the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the floor beams and rafter legs on the roof. It is necessary to arrange it so that the pipe passes between these elements. Minimum distance from outer wall the pipe to the combustible element must be at least 13 cm, and this is provided that the combustible element is protected by insulation. To meet this requirement, the pipe often has to be displaced. This is done using two 45° angles.

Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins metal pipe without insulation. In the photo above it is black. After this, an adapter is placed on the sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.

A hole is cut in the ceiling that meets fire standards - 250 mm from the edge of the pipe, if the ceiling is protected by thermal insulation material. Having cut a hole, its edges are covered with non-flammable heat-insulating material. Minerite is best suited for this (it is nailed or secured with wood screws).

The gray material around the perimeter of the hole is mineralite

The sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into the resulting box. It should be directed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. You can’t fix it rigidly, you can only give it direction by installing several bars that will hold it, but it can move up/down without difficulty. This is necessary, since when heated its length increases significantly.

The remaining space is filled with basalt wool (check the temperature range). Another option is to pour expanded clay or granulated foam glass. Previously, sand was still poured in, but sooner or later, it all spilled out through the cracks, so now this option is unpopular. On the front side, all this “beauty” is covered with a stainless steel sheet, under which a non-combustible material is placed (between it and the ceiling). Previously, it was an asbestos sheet, but since asbestos is recognized as a carcinogen, mineral wool cardboard began to be used.

There is another option. Trim the edges of the hole mineral wool, and then insert the finished stainless steel ceiling-passage assembly. It immediately contains both a box and a decorative stainless screen.

Having brought the pipe into the attic, they make a hole in the roofing pie. All films in the passage area (vapor barrier and waterproofing) are cut crosswise. The resulting triangles are wrapped and secured with staples from a stapler. This way the damage is minimal. The exposed sheathing is cut so that it is at least 13 cm from the pipe.

How to bring a chimney through the roof - passage ceiling and roofs

In the right photo above, the passage through the roof is incorrect - the distance between the pipe and the boards is too small. In a good way, you need to cut them according to the standard, and cover them with the same mineralite. The result should be something similar to the following photo.

Master flash for a sandwich chimney - a rubber cap with a flexible “skirt”

The joint between rubber and pipe is sealed with heat-resistant sealant. The roof surface under the “skirt” is also coated with sealant.

Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.

Stove passage through the wall. Which chimney is better to make in a wooden house? What type of chimney can be routed through the wall?

Basic withdrawal rules

Installation through a wooden wall

Advantages of an external chimney

Materials and tools for installation

Main design elements

Installation instructions

Diagram of the pipe exit from the furnace through the wall

What chimneys can be routed through the wall?

Calculations and installation rules

How to install a chimney?

Functionality and design features

Basic installation steps

Features of working with wooden walls

What are the advantages

It is important to know

Different walls have their own installation secrets

Basic withdrawal rules

Installation through a wooden wall

Advantages of an external chimney

Materials and tools for installation

Main design elements

Installation instructions

Video “How to remove a fireplace chimney?”

Which chimney is suitable for a wooden building?

Where to mount: inside or outside?

Basic rules and regulations for installation

Stages of installation of a brick chimney

Stages of installing a stainless steel chimney

Stages of installation of a ceramic chimney

Installation of a chimney in a wooden house (video)

General installation rules

Correct assembly sequence

In a wooden house

In the bath

Chimney for buleryan

For solid fuel boilers

For gas boilers

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they?

What materials are they made from?

Insulation and its thickness

Connection types

Installation methods

By smoke or condensation

Options

Chimney diameter

Pipe height

Installation of a sandwich chimney through a wall

How to install a chimney through the roof

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