The advantages of a do-it-yourself long-burning stove that runs on sawdust. Do-it-yourself sawdust stove from a gas cylinder Stove on long-burning sawdust

Many owners of cottages and greenhouses have to decide how to heat these small rooms. Gas or wood-fired stoves require a lot of fuel, and this, in turn, costs decent money. To save on heating, people have found this option: to operate stoves on sawdust.

Sawdust stove: benefits of use

Such heating systems have a lot of advantages:

• each summer resident will find fuel for their work, wood chips and sawdust, including pressed ones, are suitable for this;
• do not have to dispose of waste, they can be burned in an oven;
• damp wood chips, firewood and sawdust do not need to be dried beforehand, they can be laid in this form;
• maximum power is achieved in a short period of time;
• boilers give the maximum amount of heat;
• any person is able to assemble this system, and its maintenance does not require special skills;
• a boiler of this design can also be used for heating water and cooking, if supplemented with appropriate equipment;
• the ability to control your fuel costs;
• the temperature of the heated water can be adjusted;
• harmful substances burn out in the furnace without harming the environment and the atmosphere.

How are sawdust stoves made?

With their own hands, everyone can assemble such a stove, you just need to stock up on tools and necessary materials. You will need black tin or from which potbelly stoves are usually made. as big shape fit an empty gas cylinder, a 200-liter barrel or a piece of a wide pipe with a welded bottom. The thickness of these elements must be greater than 5 mm. The sawdust stove is made with a double bottom: the first bottom is located at the top of the stove, a hole with rims is made in it. The second bottom is inserted into the central part of the wide pipe, it must have an opening of the same size as in the first bottom. A conical pipe is installed in the center of the stove cylinder, which is fixed in cut out circles. When the inner pipe is installed, you can pour sawdust to the level of the chimney or to the top of the cone pipe. They need to be compacted as they are laid so that they do not crumble after the cone is removed. Next, this device is tightly closed with a lid. The lower hole is provided with a damper, firewood is placed and set on fire.

The principle of operation of the stove on sawdust

The flame from the firewood set on fire gradually passes through the hole made and sets fire to the sawdust. If the material is well compacted, it will not ignite, but will smolder. This process is very long, at least 8 hours, so for a given period of time the stove can be left unattended, even if the firewood goes out, you do not need to set it on fire again. The air above the sawdust is heated evenly and gradually. Such a sawdust stove will do just fine from a garage or workshop. To heat a cottage or a house, it is worth making small changes to the design.

Furnace modification for home heating

Houses are larger in area than greenhouses, so you need to ensure that sawdust gives more energy, can warm a large area. Furnaces made according to the method described above have one significant drawback: when exiting through the chimney, thermal energy is lost. It is not always advisable to extend the chimney to the entire area of ​​the heated room, therefore we recommend the so-called pyrolysis furnaces on sawdust. They are characterized by the fact that they have an additional air circuit for flue gases. There are two options to convert an existing stove: install a smoke circuit from the outside or from the inside.

It is easier to install it outside, that is, to surround the furnace with another layer of metal, leaving space for the free movement of hot air. This design allows you to keep the volume of loaded fuel and, accordingly, the frequency of its loading unchanged. Installing an additional circuit inside the structure is done in much the same way, but has a small drawback: you can load less sawdust. In both cases, the chimney must be located at the bottom of the structure. As can be seen from the description, making a stove on sawdust with your own hands will not cause difficulties if you know how to handle a welding machine.

Connecting the boiler to the water heating system

Some homeowners who have already installed a water heating system may wonder if such an economical sawdust stove can be connected to it. The answer is yes, and this does not require special skills. It is necessary to install a register by connecting the supply and return to it, which are connected to the central heating system. To improve heat transfer, the option of installing a blower, a narrow pipe passing through the lid and the entire body instead of a cone, is suitable.

So, for economical users who care about the environment, a long-term smoldering stove on sawdust is an excellent option for heating a greenhouse, cottage or small house. It is easy to manufacture and install, it will bring warmth, tranquility and comfort to the house.

Sawdust is an inexpensive and affordable fuel, but it is impossible to use it in conventional fireboxes - this requires a hearth of a special design. To build a stove on sawdust with your own hands, you do not have to master brickwork- the case of such devices is always made of metal. Economical stoves are suitable for heating greenhouses, garages, country houses and country houses. It all depends on how seriously you take the work and how much money to allocate for materials.

The principle of operation of stoves on sawdust

A stove that uses wood waste as fuel works on the principle long burning. The fuel in such devices does not burn, but smolders, gradually releasing a small but sufficient amount of thermal energy. Slow burning allows you to significantly save on fuel and reduce the number of loads. With this method, expensive heat does not fly away into the pipe, but is spent as much as possible on heating the house.

Homemade slow-burning sawdust stove

In order to exclude an intense flame and achieve slow and long smoldering, it is necessary to limit the access of oxygen to the fuel chamber. The problem is solved by the tightness of the structure and the pressing of the fuel.

Under a closed lid, the fuel does not burn, but slowly smolders

How to make a long burning stove

To make a sawdust stove with your own hands, you can use a ready-made metal container: a barrel, a can, an empty gas bottle or a pipe of suitable diameter. Required to work welding machine, grinder and skills to work with them.

A simple stove on sawdust from a barrel

If available metal barrel, then first of all you need to cut off the top from it. This should be done carefully, since in the future the part will be used for its intended purpose, but as a removable cover.

Scheme homemade stove on sawdust from a barrel

Next, a circle with a diameter slightly smaller than the parameters of the barrel is cut out of a metal sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm. In the center of the circle, a hole is made for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and the resulting workpiece is carefully welded to the inner walls, stepping back from the bottom 15-20 cm.

A small window is cut out just below the welded sheet - a blower, for the oxygen necessary for combustion to enter the furnace. A hole for the chimney is cut out in the upper part of the cylinder - a pipe is welded to it, which drains from the furnace carbon monoxide.

The chimney requires special attention - too powerful a draft will contribute to the rapid exhaust of gases and reduce the thermal efficiency of the device. With weak traction, another problem may arise - life-threatening combustion products will begin to enter the room.

Experienced craftsmen recommend artificially lengthening the chimney by running it around the perimeter of the room, or adapting the chimney for preparing hot water by including a boiler in the design. All this will help keep the heat in the house and get the most out of it.

Barrel stove for utility room

The lid is made from a cut off top, welded to the sides, or from a metal sheet. It is important to ensure the tightness of the structure, otherwise combustion will result instead of smoldering. For the tightest fit, special heat-resistant seals for furnaces are used. For convenience, be sure to weld the handle.

Rules for operating a homemade stove

For all its effectiveness, a homemade device works simply:

1. A cone-shaped pipe is installed in a hole in a metal sheet - this is easier to remove at the right time.
2. The container is filled with sawdust to the level of the chimney in small portions, carefully ramming each layer.
3. The pipe is carefully removed, leaving a hole in the center for oxygen to enter the fuel and exhaust gases to exit.
4. The furnace is closed with a lid and the fuel is ignited from the side of the blower. To make kindling easier, you can pour some flammable liquid on the metal partition before loading the sawdust.
5. The smoldering process in a barrel with a volume of about 200 liters lasts at least 8 hours - during this time the furnace lid must not be opened and sawdust added. A new load can be done only after the complete combustion of the previous batch of fuel.

Fuel is loaded from above

How to improve the budget model

The simplest potbelly stove from a barrel is suitable for country house, garage or greenhouse. For a residential building, it is recommended to modernize the structure by increasing the heating area by constructing an additional smoke circuit.

The contour can be made external or internal. In the first case, a similar shape of a larger diameter will be required, and in the second, you need to find a slightly smaller barrel or weld a suitable metal container.

The structure of the furnace with an external smoke circuit

The outer contour is attractive by increasing the heat transfer area and maintaining the volume combustion chamber, and the internal one is easier to work with. In both options, the chimney should be moved down.

The device of the furnace on sawdust with an internal circuit

Scheme of the device from two cylinders

It is better to make the cover from a thick steel sheet with a thickness of at least 5 mm and reinforce it at the edges, otherwise it will quickly deform from high temperature.

Boiler on sawdust for water heating

If you go even further, you can turn a long-burning stove into an efficient hot water boiler. The boiler body is best made from a pipe with a diameter of 40 cm with a wall thickness of at least 10 mm. The larger the size of the boiler, the longer the furnace will work on one load. If we take as a basis a pipe one and a half meters long, then you will not have to think about the firebox in the next 40 hours.

Sawdust fired boiler

A pipe with a diameter of 7.6 cm is suitable for a blower, and 10 cm for a chimney. The cover is made of a 10 mm thick steel sheet and must be reinforced at the edges. In the lid, as in the model described above, a handle is provided. The bottom is cut out from the same sheet and welded to the end of the future boiler.

On one side, 4 steel pins 10–15 cm long are welded to the blower pipe - this provides oxygen access and raises the part above the boiler body. It is also necessary to cut several holes 10 cm long and 0.5–0.7 mm wide at the bottom of the blower.

The flue pipe is welded to the upper part of the body, and a hot water tank is installed at the outlet of the chimney. It is advisable to mount the tank as close to the boiler as possible - this will increase work efficiency. Two pipes are connected to the tank - supply and return, connected to the heating system of the house.

Before proceeding to self-manufacturing stoves on sawdust for water heating, it is necessary to carry out all system calculations. You can only select this option experienced craftsmen confident in their knowledge and abilities. For the rest, we recommend ordering a boiler from a specialist or buying a ready-made model.

Video: do-it-yourself sawdust stove

Nowadays, buying fuel for heating or paying for gas is very expensive. Not only that, prices keep going up and up. Therefore, people began to look for alternative methods that can help save the family budget. And the most the best option- this is to purchase a stove on long-burning sawdust. Sawdust can be found in any of the shops that process wood. This is the so-called waste, which the workers definitely do not need (unless they have a sawdust incinerator, of course).

Thermal energy must be generated by a special facility, which can be done with your own hands. In this article we will talk about how to make a sawdust stove.

The long-burning sawdust stove is not complicated in its design, so a beginner in this business can also assemble it. One has only to start drawing a drawing, understanding the principle of operation of the furnace - and that's it, you can assemble it. It is desirable, of course, to have experience with tools such as a grinder and a welding machine before assembling the furnace.

Maybe someone will say a long-burning potbelly stove is also suitable for sawdust, but still it is intended for burning firewood. Most likely, long-term burning on sawdust will not work.

How units work on long-burning sawdust

This furnace can easily be called a long-burning furnace, since the fuel material does not just burn, but smolders. At the same time, a sufficiently large thermal energy is created, which can easily heat 2-3 small rooms. But wood waste cannot be simply thrown into the unit on sawdust of long burning. You must first create a pressed look for them, and only then use them for their intended purpose. Then the pressed sawdust will smolder for a long time, while generating enough heat.

Compressed wood fuel will not burn as strongly as it does not contain oxygen, which promotes the formation of fire when burned.

What material can the oven be made of:

• It can be a metal barrel, or a gas cylinder. These are rounded items and will do a better job of burning compressed sawdust for the kiln.
• You can also choose a rectangular combustion unit. A potbelly stove cannot be used for combustion, since wood fuel must be poured from above in order to make it better and easier to press.

We must not forget that when burning wood fuel, the temperature inside will be very high (the same as when burning firewood), so the walls of stoves on sawdust must be at least 5 mm.

How should the oven be assembled?

An option now is a metal barrel, which has walls 5 mm thick. So where do you start?

• First you need to cut off the top (lid). It is worth creating a convenient cover from it, that is, attaching a handle for easy removal. Along the edges you need to make boards.
• Next, you need to take a metal sheet, cut a circle out of it (the diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the barrel). In the center, make a hole with a diameter of about 10-15 cm. The resulting circle must be welded to the barrel around the perimeter inside at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ground.
• Need another pipe to complete the work. It can be called rocket, as it should have a conical shape. The diameter of the rocket tube should be at least 10 cm. If the height of the barrel, for example, is 1 meter, then the height of the tube should be 10-20 cm less, that is, 80-90 cm.
• Under the circle welded at the bottom, it is worth making a small hole that will serve as a blower. It is necessary for air circulation. Next, cut out the hole for the chimney. And we must not forget yet, attach the legs.

If you follow all these rules, then building a heater on sawdust will not be difficult.

How does a long-burning compressed fuel stove work?

In the circle that was cut out and welded into the barrel, you need to insert a cone-shaped pipe. Then you need to fill in wood fuel, tamping it very hard. The better the compaction, the better the result will be. It is possible to heat the boiler only after the pipe has been removed.

For this, a conical pipe was needed. A chimney must be connected to the side opening of the sawdust stove, and a lid must be installed on top. The lid should fit very tightly to the barrel so that the heat does not escape to the outside. Heat-resistant material will come to the rescue - it will definitely not allow heat to seep through.

To start heating the unit, you need to set fire to the wood fuel below - where the blower hole is.

This can be done in several ways:

• Light a small fire with wooden sticks.
• Make a fire from sawdust (which is not compacted).
• If, before starting to heat the boiler, some liquid fuel is poured onto the bottom (gasoline, diesel fuel, processed oils), then the lower layer of wood fuel will be saturated with fuel - and then it will light up well. With good pressure, the wood will smolder slowly, thereby creating a long burning.

We must also not forget about one thing - traction on a cone-shaped pipe. If it is too large, then all the heat will go outside. The sawdust stove will then not perform its function 100%. And if the draft is weak, then part of the wood fuel will enter the room - and there will be no long-term burning.

For masters of their craft, a sawdust stove can become a real double-circuit boiler for heating. To do this, you must first install a boiler (you can make it yourself), pass the chimney from the furnace through it. To save space, the heat exchanger can be installed inside the boiler - then, during the combustion of wood fuel, a long burning will occur, which will provide warmth and comfort to the whole house.

For general safety, the boiler must be installed outdoors, only for long-term burning it is necessary to properly insulate it. You can heat such a unit throughout the heating season. But first you need to properly load wood fuel, because you can’t throw it up (like firewood), otherwise everything will quickly burn to the ground.

sawdust - lovely material for heating houses and greenhouses.

They are made of wood, which means that when correct use they are only slightly inferior in heat capacity to firewood.

You can get them cheap, and in some cases even for free.

• houses;
• makeshift;
• greenhouses.

We will also consider in detail all types of heating stoves and long-burning boilers that can use sawdust as fuel.

Before talking about the features of boiler houses on sawdust, you need to deal with yourself combustion mechanism this fuel, because it is very different from the mechanism of burning wood.

No matter how tightly the firewood is stacked, between them there is always air passes, and in sufficient quantity to support combustion.

Even loosely laid sawdust skips much less air, so the smoldering quickly dies out without supplying additional air to the combustion zone.

Sawdust burners work effectively only when fire moves from top to bottom. Therefore, only a layer of sawdust 2–5 cm thick is constantly burning.

Due to the fact that only a small amount of fuel is involved in combustion, power boilers on sawdust and stoves working on them, with the same with wood and coal heating appliances 2-3 times less.

Another factor that reduces the power of the boiler or furnace is the low combustion temperature of sawdust.

If firewood burns with the right air supply, then the flame temperature exceeds 1000 degrees, often reaching 2000 degrees in tongues of fire. And this powerful fire, because the whole mass of firewood emits pyrolysis gases.

The temperature of the fire near burning sawdust, even with the right air supply, does not always reach and 1000 degrees because of low flow of pyrolysis gases.

Pyrolysis gases effectively exit only from the upper layer with a thickness 5–15 mm.

From sawdust that is burning or heated, but located below, the gas escapes with difficulty, because the sawdust located on top interferes with it.

Despite these shortcomings, sawdust perfect fit for boilers and long-burning furnaces.

After all, well-compacted sawdust burns a very long time.

Often, a home-made iron stove burns for 5–8 days from one filing of sawdust, providing heating for the entire house.

Suitable heating systems

For heating with sawdust of private houses and any buildings use such systems:

• heating stoves;
• heating furnaces with a water heating register or heater;
• water heating with radiators;
• water heated floor;
• air heating;
• air heated floor.

Heating stoves heat space around you and therefore only suitable for small houses . At a distance of 10 meters from the oven, the temperature drops by 10-15 degrees, so in big houses the stove can only act as an additional heater.

Heating furnaces with water heating register or heater combine the advantages of furnaces and boilers. They give the same heat as a conventional heating stove and heat the coolant, which enters remote rooms through pipes or air ducts.

The large mass of the furnace turns it into heat accumulator, thanks to which you do not have to re-heat the boiler every 2 hours or throw firewood into it every hour. The oven will maintain temperature coolant up to 6–10 hours, so you can heat 2-3 times a day.

Water heating with radiators in each room can be used with both a water boiler and a sawdust stove if it is built into it. water register. Like any other water heating, it can work on natural or forced circulation of the coolant.

In systems with natural circulation hot water first rises to the ceiling, then descends into each room and enters either radiators or warm floor. In systems with forced circulation water is driven by a pump, so all pipes can be laid under the floor.

Water and air underfloor heating not only heats the room, but also improves its microclimate. In winter, it is very pleasant to walk barefoot on the floor, feeling its warmth with your feet. Main lack of underfloor heating- the high cost of materials and work, because it is necessary not only to lay air ducts or a water pipe, but also to qualitatively insulate the space between the floor and the ground or foundation.

Air heating also costs expensive, as well as a warm floor, because it is necessary to lay air ducts throughout the house, as well as put automatic humidifiers due to the strong drying of the air. A furnace with a heater can be used as a heat source.

The difference between furnaces and boilers is only in the presence of a boiler water jacket, that is, the space between the hot body and the outer casing is filled with water.

Here distinctive features each heater:

• bake– direct heating of air and surrounding space;
• heater– air heating for delivery to other rooms without heating the surrounding space;
• furnace-heater- heating of the surrounding space and heating of air for delivery to other rooms;
• oven with register– heating of the surrounding space and water for delivery to other rooms;
• boiler– heating water for delivery to other rooms.

Therefore, heaters and boilers are installed in utility rooms and often insulated from the outside. After all, it makes no sense to waste thermal energy on strong heating. utility room, and the less heat is spent on it, the more other rooms will get.

Requirements for heating appliances

For heating with sawdust, it is necessary to use long-burning boilers and stoves that comply with the following conditions:

• fuel burning top down;
• big outer surface area(important for ovens);
• big heat exchanger area or water jacket;
• big firebox volume;
• opportunity air supply into the combustion zone.

Thanks to small size sawdust they can be fed into the oven or boiler automatically, which is even more increases time battery life heating device. Most often, auger feed is used for this - a rotating auger raises or lowers sawdust from the bunker and scatters them in the combustion zone.

When there is too much ash, the heater is stopped and cooled to clear of ashes and reload with fuel.

For heating with sawdust, boilers and long-burning stoves of the Stropuva type (the Russian analogue of Bubafonya) are well suited. These devices have firewood burning principle, and air enters directly into the combustion zone.

Furnaces and long-burning boilers that run on sawdust can not only be bought, but also made by hand. IN homemade devices the requirements for heating devices described above are also implemented.

Furnaces and boilers for sawdust

There are 2 types of fireboxes, which differ in air supply method:

• above, through the descending air duct;
• from below, through a pre-made channel in sawdust.

The most famous furnaces and boilers of the first type are devices under the Stropuva brand. They are produced both in the form of furnaces and boilers.

As we said in the article (Fuel from sawdust), the difference between stoves and boilers is that the first heat the air directly, and the second heat the coolant. Then the coolant, which can be either water or air, enters the rooms through pipes and heats them.

With drop down duct

Furnaces and long-burning boilers Stropuva arranged like this:

• body is made of pipes with a diameter of 50–70 cm;
• cut into this body two doors- loading from above and cleaning from below;
• passes through the lid telescopic tube(in home-made devices it is replaced by an ordinary pipe of great length) - an air duct;
• welded to the bottom of the duct steel circle thickness 10 and a width slightly less than the inner diameter of the body;
• attached to the top of the disc. chain or steel cable for lifting the air duct;
• welded to the underside of the disk corners or channels, creating an optimal gap between the disk and the fuel;
• smoke outlet made a little higher than the cleaning door.

Such boilers and furnaces work on sawdust as follows:

• lifting the air duct with a cable or chain, the furnace or boiler is loaded with sawdust, tamping as much as possible their;
• loading sawdust, from above lay the kindling- paper and various chips;
• waiting for the kindling to flare up, lower the duct and close the loading door;
• air supply is set to maximum, due to which the top layer of sawdust flares up and the furnace / boiler goes into operating mode;
• fire and smoke rise through the space between the disc and the body and heat both the air duct and the housing;
• oven starts radiate heat, and the boiler heats up the water jacket;
• as the sawdust burns out, their level becomes lower and the air duct descends after it, such a system provides a constant flow of air into the combustion zone and optimal fuel combustion mode.

With bottom air inlet

Boilers and furnaces without a descending duct are designed and operate somewhat differently. They have the air duct goes to the furnace from below.

Such heating devices upload via flip cover. The chimney is connected just below the hinged cover.

flip cover seal asbestos cord or tape.

During loading, a long wooden cone-shaped plug is inserted into the air duct (the upper diameter is 1.5–3 times larger than the lower one).

The sawdust is compacted tightly and after the loading is completed, the plug is pulled out - air enters through the resulting channel to the upper burning layer of sawdust.

Kindling is placed on sawdust and set on fire. When the kindling has flared up, close the hinged lid by setting the chimney damper and the air supply regulator to the maximum draft mode.

After the sawdust flared up, reduce air supply and the stove or boiler goes into long burning (smoldering) mode.

Furnaces, boilers and heaters: which is better

When choosing heating that runs on sawdust, the following must be considered:

• volume of water in the water jacket the boiler should be 10–15% of the total volume of water with the heating system, therefore it is advisable to use forced movement of water through thin tubes;
• water boiler cost"Stropuva" starts from 65 thousand rubles, and the price of do-it-yourself sawdust boilers - 30-50 thousand rubles, including the cost of the material;
• air heating not only heats, but also dries the air;
• water heating pipes can be hidden under the finish, and pipes air heating have to lay in plain sight due to the large cross section (pipe diameter in cm is equal to half the area of ​​​​the room in m²);
• find industrial heaters that work on sawdust (boilers and stoves that heat air, which is then delivered through pipes to rooms) of long burning very difficult, and their cost often exceeds the price of the Stropuva boiler;
• the cost of manufacturing heaters is comparable to the price of manufacturing a boiler;
• the costs of material and laying of water and air heating are approximately the same and amount to 15-20 thousand rubles for one room measuring 15–20 m 2;
• furnace manufacturing costs are 20-50 thousand rubles depending on the size.

Heaters and boilers are well suited for heating big houses, because they heat the coolant, which then enters remote rooms through pipes or air ducts. For small houses it is preferable to have a stove installed at the junction of all rooms.

If someone is not satisfied appearance iron oven , it can be overlaid brick lattice- it will improve the appearance of the oven and will not interfere with the movement of air.

Useful video

In this video, the owner of a private house tells how prolong burning sawdust in the kiln:

Results

Cheap or free sawdust effectively replace firewood or coal as fuel for heating. However it is not worth burning them in ordinary furnaces and boilers because they are designed for other fuels.

For such heating, do-it-yourself burners on sawdust are made or ordered from a master. The cost of buying or manufacturing such heaters will pay off in 5-10 years if you have the opportunity to get sawdust for free or cheap.

In contact with

Sawdust is an affordable fuel material that is environmentally friendly, cheap, high thermal conductivity and burning time. To effectively use it for heating, heating equipment of a special design will be required.

An excellent solution is an economical sawdust stove. It is intended for heating greenhouse and garage buildings, auxiliary, residential and utility rooms of a small area. In addition, such a unit can be built with your own hands from the available means: iron barrel, cut pipe or spent gas cylinder.

How does a sawdust stove work?

The principle of operation of the stove on long-burning sawdust lies in the main temperature processes:

• Heat accumulation as a result of smoldering wood fuel and gas utilization through it into the chimney.
• The release of heat from the smoldering fuel and the removal of pyrolysis gases into the chimney through the external circuit after they have completely cooled.

Slow burning ensures high heat transfer of heating equipment, reducing fuel consumption and the total number of loads.

One bookmark of fuel is designed for 8-10 hours of smoldering with the accumulation of a sufficient amount of thermal energy. In addition, such a furnace is equipped with a regulator for dosing the internal volume of air during the combustion process.

After sawdust is loaded into the fuel compartment, all inlets are closed to reduce the inflow of air masses from the outside. The smoldering process is accompanied by the release of pyrolysis gas, which contributes to the accumulation of a large amount of heat.

Features of using the oven

Operation of stoves on sawdust has significant differences from traditional wood or coal devices. Fuel is loaded into a special fuel chamber, which is completely filled up to the chimney. Thin branches, paper or rags soaked in a combustible mixture are laid out on top of the sawdust mass. Next, a press is installed, and the chamber is closed with a lid.

After the start of the combustion process, the damper remains stationary, and the device is warming up until the next fuel supply.

Important! In a long-burning sawdust stove, fuel must not be reloaded in the middle of the process. The device does not open until the sawdust is completely burned.

The combustion process itself begins in the center of the fuel mass, then passes to the circumference of the walls. As smoldering, compressed sawdust significantly decreases in volume, which ensures a burning time of up to 10 hours.

The heat transfer coefficient of a stove on sawdust directly depends on the diameter and volume of the fuel chamber. Long and tapered designs provide accelerated heating, while large diameter devices provide slow and high heat dissipation.

Positive characteristics of stoves on sawdust

Heating units have a number of positive characteristics:

• Duration of process of burning at one laying of sawdust from 8 to 18 hours.
• Autonomous operation without the need for human supervision.
• Ergonomic design and light weight.
• High heat transfer in a short period of time.
• Does not require any additional foundation.
• Ability to bookmark various types fuel material - sawdust, firewood, wood chips and pellets.
• Durability, safety and reliability of operation.
• Complete combustion of fuel and minimum amount of ash.
• Reduced smoke emission.
• Easy to assemble at home from improvised materials.
• Affordable manufacturing cost.
• Possibility of use for the organization of hot water supply and cooking.

There are practically no significant shortcomings in such home-made stoves. The only negative point is that they are absolutely inefficient for heating large areas.

Long-burning sawdust stove

The standard long-burning sawdust stove has a fairly simple and ergonomic design. The equipment includes the following structural elements:

• Chamber for loading fuel material.
• Blower for air supply.
• Chimney pipe equipped with a damper.
• Protective cover.

The minimum set of elements ensures the rapid manufacture of the furnace structure, and the finished furnace is economical, safe and reliable.

TO distinctive features such structures include the following:

1. Combustion is carried out from the top to the bottom of the firebox.
2. The air diffuser provides additional heat. The distribution unit is connected to a telescopic pipe, so as the fuel smolders, the press sinks to the bottom of the chamber under its own weight.
3. The design does not require frequent removal of ash.
4. Control over the level of thrust inside the stove is carried out using a valve. The fuel is ignited with the housing open, after which the air distributor and cover are installed.
5. The controlled supply of the air mixture ensures the correct smoldering of the fuel and good gas generation.

Factory analogues of furnaces are equipped with automatic control systems for the combustion process, fans and other devices. In addition, they provide long-term maintenance of the optimum air heating temperature without additional fuel loading.

Boiler on sawdust for water heating

Often, sawdust or woodchip boilers are used as the main heat source in heating systems.

Structurally, a long-burning sawdust boiler consists of the following functional elements:

• In the lower part of the body there is a grate and an ash pan (a compartment for collecting ash). Some models of devices in this part are connected to the fuel dispenser.
• In the middle part there is a furnace compartment, in which the combustion of the fuel material is carried out. Special inlets or an air blower for uniform burning of sawdust are also provided here.
• Above the furnace compartment is a heating module.

Important! Automatic pyrolysis boilers for autonomous heating systems are designed for loading loose wood waste, but there are models that can only be heated using pressed raw materials in pellets.

Modern models of boilers are equipped with reliable system automatic control to control heat engineering processes inside the equipment.

The main advantages of a long-burning boiler include:

• Possibility of loading various fuels: wood chips, sawdust or pressed chips.
• Efficiency at the level of 85-90%.
• High air heating efficiency.
• A wide scope of use - for heating, hot water supply, cooking.

Manufacturing technology of a homemade stove on sawdust

A home-made version of the heating furnace can be made from a bulk metal or cast-iron barrel without mechanical damage and corrosion. If desired, it can be replaced:

• Gas bottle.
• Sheet steel.
• Pipe cut.
• Bulk fire extinguisher.

Additionally, the following materials will be required for assembly:

• Pipe cuts, reinforcing bars or channels for legs.
• Metal circles on capacity diameter up to 6 mm thick.
• Metal door (homemade or finished).
• A pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, a length of 20 cm more than the height of the barrel.
• Chimney pipe - diameter 10 cm, length 5.5 m.

Required set of tools:

• Bulgarian cutter.
• Equipment for welding.
• Hammer.
• Measuring devices - tape measure and building level.

Self-assembly of the device is carried out in accordance with the prepared drawing and includes the following steps:

1. Fuel tank preparation. The top of the container is cut off according to the previously applied markings. The bottom is removed in the same way, from which a protective cover for the heater can be made.
2. The construction of the bottom of the furnace. From sheet steel, a blank is made according to the diameter of the fuel chamber. A hole is cut in the center of the workpiece for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm to supply the air mixture.
3. Production of a pipe for supplying oxygen to the fuel chamber. For this, an elongated pipe is used, in which longitudinal grooves or perforations are made by the grinder.
4. The perforated pipe is installed in the center of the bottom and fixed by welding. Next, a cover is made with a central hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the pipe (the cover is installed on the pipe). Additionally, a marginal hole is cut out to enhance traction, on which the damper is installed. The pipe cover is equipped with shackles for ease of use.
5. Chimney installation. A hole is made in the upper part of the container for the diameter of the pipe. A pipe is welded to it, which will connect the chimney to the stove with a clamp.
6. Supports made of selected materials are welded to the bottom of the furnace.

Process self assembly pyrolysis furnace on sawdust, subject to all conditions, is quite easy to learn even for a novice master. A technically competently manufactured device is able to provide fast and economical heating of small rooms with economical fuel consumption.