Furnace prefix for working out drawing. Homemade wood burning stove. Assembling an efficient potbelly stove

During the operation of any mechanisms, technical oils are used. During use for their intended purpose, they are not burned and remain flammable. Instead of recycling alternative their reuse is a potbelly stove with used oil, which you can make with your own hands.

Let's try to figure out how a potbelly stove works and what materials are required to make it. We will also talk about popular models of home-made stoves and share the secrets of their successful operation.

The work of the potbelly stove is based on the phenomenon of pyrolysis. Such a furnace, where oil is used as fuel, has 2 main compartments: a tank and a combustion chamber located at different levels. The first is intended for pouring mining and its combustion.

In another compartment, located above, the afterburning of the combustion products of mining, mixed with air, takes place. At the first stage, the temperature is relatively moderate, and at the second stage it is much higher - up to 800⁰.

In the manufacture of such a furnace, the main task is to make sure that air enters both compartments. It enters the first chamber through an opening designed to load liquid fuel. The hole is equipped with a special damper, through which the volume of air supply is regulated.

Despite the fact that the design of the furnace is very simple, increased requirements are placed on the chimney of the potbelly stove. For effective removal of combustion products, it is necessary to prepare a straight pipe with a diameter of more than 10 cm and a length of more than 400 cm. Bends and horizontal sections are highly undesirable. In addition to its intended purpose, the pipe also acts as a residual heat exchanger

Air access to the second tank is provided by holes with a diameter of about 9 mm. The efficiency of a properly assembled potbelly stove reaches 90%. Visually, different potbelly stoves can differ from each other in both shape and size, but the principle of operation is the same.

The power of the potbelly stove is proportional to the volume of the lower tank. The larger it is, the less often you have to add mining. Sometimes this container is made very massive, containing about 30 liters of used oil.

The improvement of the simple design of the stove during mining made it possible to invent a unit for arranging a garage, in which it would be nice to wash your hands hot water, or a small private bathhouse:

Image gallery

Creating a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

Another design option for a mining furnace is a self-made potbelly stove based on a 50-liter gas cylinder. In addition to this main element, you need to prepare 2 steel pipes with a wall of about 4 mm and a diameter of 10 cm. One of them will remove burning gases, and the second will act as a heat exchanger.

To this should be added a 4 mm steel sheet for a canopy above the heat exchanger and a partition separating the evaporator and combustion chamber. For the evaporation chamber itself, you will need a brake disc from a car with such a diameter that it effortlessly enters the cylinder. A piece of 0.5-inch pipe is needed to transport oil to the combustion chamber.

From a used cylinder, an excellent potbelly stove is obtained. Although there is no gas in it, it is better to play it safe - hold the cylinder for some time on the street with an open valve. Soap suds are applied around the outlet. When it stops bubbling, the valve is twisted, if it is removable, if not, the condensate is drained in another way

In addition, you should have in stock an equilateral steel angle with a shelf of 50 mm and a length of more than 1 m, a 0.5-inch valve, sealing clamps - 2 pcs., A hose, any cylinder equipped with a needle valve.

The work on creating a potbelly stove is performed in a certain order. First, the balloon is turned upside down and a small hole is drilled in it. A measure such as wetting the drill and the drilling site with oil will protect against sparking.

The valve is dismantled using a gas or adjustable wrench. After freeing the vessel from all residues, it can be cut, welded

Free the container from gas condensate. Drain it carefully away from housing, because. his bad smell stored for a long time. Then the billet is filled with water, after which it is drained again, thus removing the remaining gas. Since the mixture is explosive, there must be no source of open flame nearby.

Cut out in the cylinder body 2 rectangles of the same width, equal to 1/3 of the diameter of the workpiece. The height of the lower rectangle is 20 cm, the second, located 5 cm higher than the first, 40 cm. To separate the chambers, a circle is cut out of the sheet with a diameter equal to the inner diameter of the vessel.

In its middle, a hole is made for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. This part will separate the combustion chamber from the heat exchanger.

A burner is made from a pipe 20 long and 10 cm in diameter. Its lower part is perforated, making holes about 2 cm in diameter. They clean the inside of burrs, otherwise they will collect soot on themselves, which will significantly narrow the hole later.

They put a previously cut circle on the burner, placing it exactly in the middle, and weld it. The structure is placed inside the furnace and a weld is made around the circumference of the cylinder.

Weld the bottom and cover on the brake car drive. This will be the evaporator tray or bowl. To supply fuel, an opening is left in the lid through which air will enter the potbelly stove. The opening is made quite wide, otherwise the draft will decrease and the oil will not get into the bowl.

Weld a pipe to the top of the lid. A coupling is made from a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, which will connect the bowl to the burner.

Assemble the fuel supply system, for which:

• make a receiving hole in the pallet;
• insert a 0.5-inch piece of water pipe into it at an angle of about 40⁰;
• weld the pipe to the furnace body;
• an emergency backup valve is screwed to the pipe, the role of which is played by an ordinary water tap.

A heat exchanger is made from a pipe with a cross section of 10 cm. It is cut horizontally into the body of the potbelly stove, and a reflector is mounted at the end. Air is arranged by installing a duct fan at the end of the heat exchanger. The air driven through the heat exchanger with its help has a high speed.

In order to make the system more manageable, it is automated by connecting a thermal relay to a duct fan. This solution allows you to set the desired temperature

An air swirler is placed inside the heat exchanger, consisting of triangular teeth interconnected by welding. A chimney is made from a pipe with a cross section of 10 cm.

It is welded into a hole located in the upper part of the furnace body and led out through the wall to the roof of the building.

The pipe section passing through the building envelope is best placed in a refractory glass, and a metal sheet must be attached at the entrance

Next, they are engaged in the manufacture of a tank for oil. If there is a freon-free cylinder with a working needle valve, then it is quite suitable for this purpose. The vessel and the potbelly stove are connected by a hose connected to the valve. To fill in the used oil, a hole is made in the tank body.

To provide air access to the burner and the evaporator bowl, a groove is selected in the lower compartment door. Thrust plates are attached to the opening of the door of the upper chamber, which ensures reliable sealing of the combustion chamber. For the same purpose, the door is additionally equipped with a lock.

Now, even if the body of the potbelly stove is deformed as a result of strong heating, the tightness of the combustion chamber will not be violated.

It remains to weld the legs from the pieces of the corner to the body and place the furnace vertically. In addition to vertical bourgeoisie, they also make from a cylinder. Their device is similar.

Potbelly stove plus water circuit

Any home does not interfere with the presence of an emergency source of heat. An ordinary, but slightly modernized, potbelly stove can play its role. There are two ways to improve the stove - put it on the burner pipe water jacket or wrap its body with a coil of copper tubes.

The coils of the coil are placed at a distance of about 5 cm from the perforated body of the potbelly stove and connected to a common heating system. A reflective screen is installed around the coil. For its manufacture using sheet aluminum, galvanized steel, tin.

The water jacket is a tank on the upper chamber of the potbelly stove. There should be 2 fittings in its body - one for supplying and the other for draining water. In general, the design resembles a samovar. The volume of the water jacket depends on the length of the heating system and the way the coolant circulates.

In practice, the issue of the device of the water circuit is solved by installing the tank directly on the potbelly stove. Through the outlet to the heating system, it enters the latter hot water. Passing in a circle, she pours heat into the room and returns back to the container.

If a pump is installed in the system, the volume of the tank is small, and with natural circulation it has impressive dimensions. To control the water parameters, a pressure gauge and a thermometer are installed on the tank.

Drip potbelly stove at work

You can also make an economical model of a drip potbelly stove yourself. Suitable for body metal barrel small volume or other capacity available on the farm. A hole is made in the body through which oil will flow.

Such a unit, operating on waste oil products, can smoke, so the room in which it is installed must have good ventilation.

A hole is made in the container along the diameter of the tube. The tube itself is shaped like the letter "G", and the burner is suspended.

Alteration of a solid fuel stove for testing

When the farm already has a potbelly stove, but is not satisfied with the fact that it runs on solid fuel, you can upgrade it and it will become universal. For this, an attachment is made that resembles in its design a stove being processed in its lower part.

Here, too, there is a perforated pipe, but not straight, but bent at a right angle. It is connected to the side wall of the furnace, which acts as the final combustion chamber. If the door of the potbelly stove is welded and a hole is made in it for the pipe to enter, then the furnace will only work during mining.

The modernization of this furnace consists not only in supplementing it with a special attachment, but also in original solution protect nearby objects from fire using the principle of convection. For this, pipes were welded to the side wall of the furnace. The cold air entering them from below cools the structure

In order to be able to use not only technical oil for heating, but also firewood, two interchangeable doors are made. The standard one is hung when it is planned to lay firewood, and the upgraded one with the corresponding hole - when the stove will operate on waste oil.

We also suggest reading an article on how to assemble a potbelly stove using used oil from a pipe - to familiarize yourself with the material, go to.

Secrets of the successful operation of the potbelly stove

In order for the work of a potbelly stove operating on waste oil to be efficient and safe, you need to follow a few tips. The oil must be allowed to settle before use. Pour it into the oil tank to 2/3 of the volume of the latter.

For safety reasons, all elements of the potbelly stove should be cleaned regularly. To simplify this task, its upper module should be removable. This will provide access to the chamber where the combustion of the mixture occurs. To remove soot from the walls of the chimney, it should be tapped.

In order to prolong the service life of the combustion chamber and the furnace as a whole, it must be painted using paints that are resistant to high temperatures. The potbelly stove should be installed on a non-combustible base. Do not place it in a draft, under the influence of which the flame can break out.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Improved design of the stove-potbelly stove. The author of this video shares the details of its creation:

The potbelly stove has a simple design, but to make it yourself, you need drawings with exact dimensions. A design made by eye will not only not provide heat, but will also become a source of various troubles in the form of soot, splashed oil and numerous alterations.

It makes sense to start manufacturing such a unit only when it is possible to provide it with fuel. Otherwise, its operation will be unprofitable economically.

Perhaps you already have experience self-manufacturing potbelly stoves? Please share valuable advice with our readers. Leave comments in the block below. Here you can also ask a question of interest on the topic of the article, and we will try to promptly answer it.

In order to perform some work in the garage or in the country during the cold season, you need to organize the simplest heating. Knowing how much electricity costs today, most garage craftsmen prefer to use factory and home-made heaters that operate on wood or oil mining. The purpose of our article is to provide drawings and describe in detail how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands for use in a garage or a small country house.

We select the design of the stove

Since there are enough drawings of ordinary potbelly stoves on the Internet, we will offer a choice of 4 original designs, one of which will certainly suit your conditions:

1. Two-way wood and charcoal stove, welded from sheet metal.
2. Vertical heater from a gas cylinder with an air or water circuit.
3. pyrolysis oven long burning from a cylinder or pipe installed horizontally.
4. Dropper for the development of automotive and other oils.

Unit with two chimneys

Note. The heating furnace can also be built from ceramic bricks, which is described in this topic. Such a heat source will fit well into the interior of the cottage, but is inconvenient for a garage due to the size of the brick building, long warm-up and lack of mobility.

Wood burning heater with air chamber at the top

1. If you spend a little time in the garage (1-3 hours a day), then you will need a quick heating of the room, and a vertical wood stove with air heat exchanger(option No. 2), presented in the photo. Thanks to the fan that drives air through the upper chamber, it acts like a heat gun.
2. The same second option will work for boxes large sizes(standard dimensions of the garage - 6 x 3 m). Then the air chamber turns into a water circuit connected to the heating registers.
3. For permanent heating of a standard garage, option No. 1 is suitable - an efficient two-way wood-burning stove, or No. 3 - a long-burning unit. The choice depends on the material you have: the first is made from a propane tank, the second is made from 4 mm thick sheet iron.
4. For those who plan to burn used oils for heating, it is recommended to cook from round pipe drip type stove (option No. 4). If you wish and skill, you can upgrade it - convert it into a boiler by making a water jacket.

Double chamber pyrolysis oven

Reference. Of the popular garage homemade products, it is worth mentioning 2 more designs: the famous stove - Bubafonya upper burning potbelly stove and a small heater made of rims. The manufacture of the first is described in detail, the second is shown in the video:

Assembling an efficient potbelly stove

It is well known that ordinary iron stoves are characterized by low efficiency (about 45%), since a significant part of the heat goes into the chimney along with the flue gases. Our design incorporates modern technical solution applied in solid fuel boilers- installation of two partitions on the way of combustion products. Going around them, the gases transfer thermal energy to the walls, which makes the efficiency higher (55-60%), and the potbelly stove is more economical. The principle of operation of the unit reflects the drawing - diagram:

For manufacturing, you will need a sheet of low-carbon steel 4 mm thick, a piece of pipe Ø100 mm and rolled metal for the legs and grate. Now about how to make an economical potbelly stove:

1. Cut metal blanks according to the drawing and make openings for the doors of the firebox and ash pan.
2. Weld a grate from corners or fittings.
3. From the cut parts, make doors with locks.
4. Assemble the unit on tacks, and then weld the seams solid. Install the flue pipe and legs.

Advice. The lower partition, strongly heated by the flame, is best made of thicker iron - 5 or 6 mm.

For better heat transfer, craftsmen practice welding additional outer ribs to the body, as is done in the photo.

How to weld a vertical furnace from a cylinder

This stove-potbelly stove differs from similar units in the presence of an air chamber arranged in the upper part and completely isolated from the firebox by a steel partition. Inside it, heat exchange fins are installed through which the heated air is blown by a fan. For supplying cold and ejecting hot streams, nozzles with a diameter of 40-50 mm are built into the cover, which is shown in the drawing.

Note. The organization of the air heating chamber in the upper zone of the firebox allows you to take the heat of the combustion products passing by it into the chimney. Because in vertical oven the flame covers the entire portion of firewood, there is an intense heating of the air flow in a separate compartment, due to which the temperature in the garage rises quickly.

The first operation is the correct disassembly of a 50-liter propane tank. To displace the remaining liquefied gas, it is necessary to unscrew the valve and fill the tank to the top with water. After the grinder, you need to cut off the cover (the cut line is the factory seam) and proceed in this order:

1. In the side wall of the cylinder, make rectangular openings for the ash and loading doors and frame them with a 3 mm thick steel strip, as shown in the drawing. Cut a hole Ø100 mm for the chimney.
2. Make removable grates and install them inside the body on the welded corners.
3. Make the doors of the ash and fuel chambers, attach handles and hinges to them, and then install them in the framed openings.
4. Cut out a circle Ø30 cm from metal 4 mm thick - this will be the bottom of the chamber. Weld ribs from rolled metal waste to one of its surfaces, and then hermetically dock it with the firebox for welding.
5. Make 2 holes in the cut cover and weld the pipes for connecting the air ducts. When ready, install the cover in its original place (but now - above the heat exchanger) and carefully go through the joint by welding.

A vertical potbelly stove in a garage is capable of burning wood of various qualities and humidity, including sawdust, as well as supplying heated air to any point in the room, which is important for greenhouses. In addition, it can provide heat to radiators and registers if they are connected to the nozzles in the upper chamber cover and the system is filled with coolant.

Attention! To avoid boiling water and breaking pipes, you need to create its constant forced circulation from the pump and install an open expansion tank. Use antifreeze as a coolant, because the garage is not heated around the clock.

Production of a horizontal heater

If you lay a standard propane cylinder horizontally and arrange a door at the end, you will get a fairly roomy firebox, which will include meter-long logs. For better heat transfer and afterburning of the resulting pyrolysis gases, it is necessary to make a secondary chamber with partitions, as shown in the drawing.

The afterburning of combustible gases in this potbelly stove is combined with the removal of heat from the products of combustion, enveloping hemispherical partitions (cut out from the cylinder body). Well, an indispensable attribute of intense heat transfer - external ribs made of steel strips - are required. Practice shows that such a stove heats a garage up to 50 m² in medium burning mode, as described in the next video:

In manufacturing, the heating unit is simple: doors are installed in the front part, and a hole is cut in the back, where the secondary chamber is welded from a pipe or a second cylinder. In order not to take away the useful volume of the firebox, the ash pan is made hinged. If necessary, a hob is arranged on top of the horizontal part.

We make a potbelly stove at work

Diesel fuel and used engine oil are very high-calorie fuels. If you get it inexpensively, then it makes no sense to mess with firewood and coal, it’s easier to make a reliable furnace - a dropper. Its principle of operation is to burn mining, dripping into a red-hot bowl. Moreover, along the way, liquid fuel has time to warm up, as it passes through the oil pipeline built into the pipe - the afterburner. The drip-type potbelly stove device is shown in detail in the drawing.

For efficient combustion of oil, air is forced into the stove using a fan, and mining flows naturally from a tank suspended from the wall next to the heater. Another option is the forced supply of fuel by pressurizing the fuel tank (for example, with a hand pump).

Both a pipe Ø219 mm and a propane cylinder with a diameter of 30 cm can act as a furnace body. Making an oil potbelly stove with your own hands is a simple task, the main thing is to make holes and slots in the afterburner correctly and lay the fuel pipe to the bowl installed at the bottom. A complete assembly guide is provided in our other article. You can get a closer look at the operation of the heater from the video:

Conclusion

It must be understood that the designs of wood-burning and oil stoves for the garage shown above can be changed and refined by you during operation. That's the beauty of homemade stoves - they are improved according to your desire. Example: garage craftsmen often make an external water circuit based on a samovar heat exchanger built into the vertical section of the chimney. This makes it possible to use water heating without intervention in the design and alteration of the furnace itself.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Related posts:

During the operation of any mechanisms, technical oils are used. During use for their intended purpose, they are not burned and remain flammable. Instead of recycling, an alternative option for their reuse is a used oil potbelly stove, which you can make yourself.

Let's try to figure out how a potbelly stove works and what materials are required to make it. We will also talk about popular models of home-made stoves and share the secrets of their successful operation.

The work of the potbelly stove is based on the phenomenon of pyrolysis. Such a furnace, where oil is used as fuel, has 2 main compartments: a tank and a combustion chamber located at different levels. The first is intended for pouring mining and its combustion.

In another compartment, located above, the afterburning of the combustion products of mining, mixed with air, takes place. At the first stage, the temperature is relatively moderate, and at the second stage it is much higher - up to 800⁰.

In the manufacture of such a furnace, the main task is to make sure that air enters both compartments. It enters the first chamber through an opening designed to load liquid fuel. The hole is equipped with a special damper, through which the volume of air supply is regulated.

Despite the fact that the design of the furnace is very simple, increased requirements are placed on the chimney of the potbelly stove. For effective removal of combustion products, it is necessary to prepare a straight pipe with a diameter of more than 10 cm and a length of more than 400 cm. Bends and horizontal sections are highly undesirable. In addition to its intended purpose, the pipe also acts as a residual heat exchanger

Air access to the second tank is provided by holes with a diameter of about 9 mm. The efficiency of a properly assembled potbelly stove reaches 90%. Visually, different potbelly stoves can differ from each other in both shape and size, but the principle of operation is the same.

The power of the potbelly stove is proportional to the volume of the lower tank. The larger it is, the less often you have to add mining. Sometimes this container is made very massive, containing about 30 liters of used oil.

The improvement of the simple design of the stove during working out made it possible to invent a unit for arranging a garage, in which it would be nice to wash your hands with hot water, or a small private bathhouse:

Image gallery

Creating a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

Another design option for a mining furnace is a self-made potbelly stove based on a 50-liter gas cylinder. In addition to this main element, you need to prepare 2 steel pipes with a wall of about 4 mm and a diameter of 10 cm. One of them will remove burning gases, and the second will act as a heat exchanger.

To this should be added a 4 mm steel sheet for a canopy above the heat exchanger and a partition separating the evaporator and combustion chamber. For the evaporation chamber itself, you will need a brake disc from a car with such a diameter that it effortlessly enters the cylinder. A piece of 0.5-inch pipe is needed to transport oil to the combustion chamber.

From a used cylinder, an excellent potbelly stove is obtained. Although there is no gas in it, it is better to play it safe - hold the cylinder for some time on the street with an open valve. Soap suds are applied around the outlet. When it stops bubbling, the valve is twisted, if it is removable, if not, the condensate is drained in another way

In addition, you should have in stock an equilateral steel angle with a shelf of 50 mm and a length of more than 1 m, a 0.5-inch valve, sealing clamps - 2 pcs., A hose, any cylinder equipped with a needle valve.

The work on creating a potbelly stove is performed in a certain order. First, the balloon is turned upside down and a small hole is drilled in it. A measure such as wetting the drill and the drilling site with oil will protect against sparking.

The valve is dismantled using a gas or adjustable wrench. After freeing the vessel from all residues, it can be cut, welded

Free the container from gas condensate. Drain it carefully away from housing, because. its unpleasant smell remains for a long time. Then the billet is filled with water, after which it is drained again, thus removing the remaining gas. Since the mixture is explosive, there must be no source of open flame nearby.

Cut out in the cylinder body 2 rectangles of the same width, equal to 1/3 of the diameter of the workpiece. The height of the lower rectangle is 20 cm, the second, located 5 cm higher than the first, 40 cm. To separate the chambers, a circle is cut out of the sheet with a diameter equal to the inner diameter of the vessel.

In its middle, a hole is made for a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. This part will separate the combustion chamber from the heat exchanger.

A burner is made from a pipe 20 long and 10 cm in diameter. Its lower part is perforated, making holes about 2 cm in diameter. They clean the inside of burrs, otherwise they will collect soot on themselves, which will significantly narrow the hole later.

They put a previously cut circle on the burner, placing it exactly in the middle, and weld it. The structure is placed inside the furnace and a weld is made around the circumference of the cylinder.

The bottom and cover are welded onto the brake disc. This will be the evaporator tray or bowl. To supply fuel, an opening is left in the lid through which air will enter the potbelly stove. The opening is made quite wide, otherwise the draft will decrease and the oil will not get into the bowl.

Weld a pipe to the top of the lid. A coupling is made from a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, which will connect the bowl to the burner.

Assemble the fuel supply system, for which:

• make a receiving hole in the pallet;
• insert a 0.5-inch piece of water pipe into it at an angle of about 40⁰;
• weld the pipe to the furnace body;
• an emergency backup valve is screwed to the pipe, the role of which is played by an ordinary water tap.

A heat exchanger is made from a pipe with a cross section of 10 cm. It is cut horizontally into the body of the potbelly stove, and a reflector is mounted at the end. Air is arranged by installing a duct fan at the end of the heat exchanger. The air driven through the heat exchanger with its help has a high speed.

In order to make the system more manageable, it is automated by connecting a thermal relay to a duct fan. This solution allows you to set the desired temperature

An air swirler is placed inside the heat exchanger, consisting of triangular teeth interconnected by welding. A chimney is made from a pipe with a cross section of 10 cm.

It is welded into a hole located in the upper part of the furnace body and led out through the wall to the roof of the building.

The pipe section passing through the building envelope is best placed in a refractory glass, and a metal sheet must be attached at the entrance

Next, they are engaged in the manufacture of a tank for oil. If there is a freon-free cylinder with a working needle valve, then it is quite suitable for this purpose. The vessel and the potbelly stove are connected by a hose connected to the valve. To fill in the used oil, a hole is made in the tank body.

To provide air access to the burner and the evaporator bowl, a groove is selected in the lower compartment door. Thrust plates are attached to the opening of the door of the upper chamber, which ensures reliable sealing of the combustion chamber. For the same purpose, the door is additionally equipped with a lock.

Now, even if the body of the potbelly stove is deformed as a result of strong heating, the tightness of the combustion chamber will not be violated.

It remains to weld the legs from the pieces of the corner to the body and place the furnace vertically. In addition to vertical bourgeoisie, they also make from a cylinder. Their device is similar.

Potbelly stove plus water circuit

Any home does not interfere with the presence of an emergency source of heat. An ordinary, but slightly modernized, potbelly stove can play its role. There are two ways to improve the stove - put a water jacket on the burner pipe or wrap its body with a coil of copper tubes.

The coils of the coil are placed at a distance of about 5 cm from the perforated body of the potbelly stove and connected to a common heating system. A reflective screen is installed around the coil. For its manufacture using sheet aluminum, galvanized steel, tin.

The water jacket is a tank on the upper chamber of the potbelly stove. There should be 2 fittings in its body - one for supplying and the other for draining water. In general, the design resembles a samovar. The volume of the water jacket depends on the length of the heating system and the way the coolant circulates.

In practice, the issue of the device of the water circuit is solved by installing the tank directly on the potbelly stove. Through the outlet to the heating system, hot water enters the latter. Passing in a circle, she pours heat into the room and returns back to the container.

If a pump is installed in the system, the volume of the tank is small, and with natural circulation it has impressive dimensions. To control the water parameters, a pressure gauge and a thermometer are installed on the tank.

Drip potbelly stove at work

You can also make an economical model of a drip potbelly stove yourself. For the case, a metal barrel of a small volume or another container available on the farm is suitable. A hole is made in the body through which oil will flow.

Such a unit, operating on waste oil products, can smoke, so the room in which it is installed must have good ventilation.

A hole is made in the container along the diameter of the tube. The tube itself is shaped like the letter "G", and the burner is suspended.

Alteration of a solid fuel stove for testing

When the farm already has a potbelly stove, but is not satisfied with the fact that it runs on solid fuel, you can upgrade it and it will become universal. For this, an attachment is made that resembles in its design a stove being processed in its lower part.

Here, too, there is a perforated pipe, but not straight, but bent at a right angle. It is connected to the side wall of the furnace, which acts as the final combustion chamber. If the door of the potbelly stove is welded and a hole is made in it for the pipe to enter, then the furnace will only work during mining.

The modernization of this stove consists not only in supplementing it with a special attachment, but also in an original solution to protect nearby objects from fire using the convection principle. For this, pipes were welded to the side wall of the furnace. The cold air entering them from below cools the structure

In order to be able to use not only technical oil for heating, but also firewood, two interchangeable doors are made. The standard one is hung when it is planned to lay firewood, and the upgraded one with the corresponding hole - when the stove will operate on waste oil.

We also suggest reading an article on how to assemble a potbelly stove using used oil from a pipe - to familiarize yourself with the material, go to.

Secrets of the successful operation of the potbelly stove

In order for the work of a potbelly stove operating on waste oil to be efficient and safe, you need to follow a few tips. The oil must be allowed to settle before use. Pour it into the oil tank to 2/3 of the volume of the latter.

For safety reasons, all elements of the potbelly stove should be cleaned regularly. To simplify this task, its upper module should be removable. This will provide access to the chamber where the combustion of the mixture occurs. To remove soot from the walls of the chimney, it should be tapped.

In order to prolong the service life of the combustion chamber and the furnace as a whole, it must be painted using paints that are resistant to high temperatures. The potbelly stove should be installed on a non-combustible base. Do not place it in a draft, under the influence of which the flame can break out.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Improved design of the stove-potbelly stove. The author of this video shares the details of its creation:

The potbelly stove has a simple design, but to make it yourself, you need drawings with exact dimensions. A design made by eye will not only not provide heat, but will also become a source of various troubles in the form of soot, splashed oil and numerous alterations.

It makes sense to start manufacturing such a unit only when it is possible to provide it with fuel. Otherwise, its operation will be unprofitable economically.

Perhaps you already have experience in making a potbelly stove yourself? Please share your valuable tips with our readers. Leave comments in the block below. Here you can also ask a question of interest on the topic of the article, and we will try to promptly answer it.

How to heat an unheated garage in winter time? The simplest answer: make a potbelly stove. This unit has simple design and works great on wood, coal, sawdust, etc. However, a motorist does not always have a sufficient amount of such fuel. But used engine oil is usually available. For many motorists, a do-it-yourself potbelly stove with used oil has become an excellent alternative to a conventional wood-burning stove. However, such an oven is used not only for garages.

The principle of operation and the advantages of such a stove

The combustion of fuel in a waste oil furnace occurs in two stages. The fuel in the tank burns first. The resulting gases are mixed with air. At the second stage, it is this gas-air mixture that burns, so the mining stove consists of two compartments.

The working furnace device includes two combustion chambers, in one of which the used oil burns, and in the other - a mixture of oil vapors and air

The first compartment is a tank into which used oil is poured. It burns at a relatively moderate temperature. Above is another compartment designed for the combustion of products mixed with air, formed during the combustion of mining. Here the process takes place at much more high temperature, it can reach 800 degrees.

An important condition for the construction of a potbelly stove for working out with your own hands is to ensure air access to both combustion chambers. For this, a small hole is made in the lower tank, which serves to fill the fuel, as well as to adjust the air supply. The hole is closed with a special valve. Secondary air usually enters the upper chamber through small holes (about 10 mm) drilled in the pipe connecting the tank and the second combustion chamber.

Read also how you can build a potbelly stove for a garage and a summer residence, which can be heated with firewood, peat or waste:.

In order to provide air access to the second combustion chamber of the potbelly stove at mining, it is necessary to make small holes in the pipe connecting this chamber and the oil tank

The ability to use almost free fuel from used oil is not the only advantage of such a unit. Thanks to the high combustion temperature, it heats the room quickly and efficiently. If the device is working correctly, no unpleasant odors, nor substances hazardous to human health, therefore, from the point of view of ecology, a potbelly stove at work is considered completely safe.

However, the use of flammable substances in such a stove, such as gasoline, thinner, etc., can be dangerous. It should also be remembered that some types of used transformer oil can release compounds that are harmful to health when heated.

Drawing of the simplest and most popular waste oil stove (click to enlarge)

Step-by-step production of the stove according to the drawing above

The owners of furnaces in mining are stocking up on fuel in summer period. To do this, they put a container in the garage into which the used oil is drained. By winter, it accumulates quite a decent amount of fuel. Inexpensive or completely free used oil can be obtained at car repair shops, service stations, etc.

In our next article, you will find instructions for making a furnace for mining from a gas cylinder:.

We remake the potbelly stove for working out

Owners of an ordinary potbelly stove, who decide to switch to heating with used oil, can make some changes to the design of an existing unit. When figuring out how to convert an ordinary potbelly stove for mining, one should take into account the principles of operation of this unit, i.e., provide a secondary combustion chamber and air access to both chambers. Here is one such modification:

1. 1. Weld a waste oil tank from sheet iron.
   2. Cut a hole in the oven for air supply.
   3. Install a valve that will control the flow of air into the fuel tank.
   4. Instead of a chimney pipe, put a pipe with holes for air.
   5. Make a secondary combustion chamber with a removable top.
   6. Attach the secondary combustion chamber to the pipe with holes.
   7. Install the flue pipe.

Of course, the blower of an ordinary potbelly stove should be closed when switching to mining to ensure proper traction. If desired, it blew and the potbelly stove hatch, through which firewood or coal is loaded, can simply be brewed. In this case, the oil will be fed into the furnace through the view. The oil is ignited through the same hole. However, a more convenient option for loading fuel will probably be the ability to remove the fuel tank from the potbelly stove. In this case, it makes sense to think about creating a universal stove that uses waste oil or wood.

This diagram clearly demonstrates one of the options for the construction of a potbelly stove for mining. The more closely the finished unit matches the recommendations of engineers, the better the stove will work.

Universal option: firewood + mining

Sometimes circumstances dictate the need to use different types fuel. For this, there is no need to keep two units in the room at once. There are models of universal potbelly stoves that can easily switch from firewood and coal to used engine oil. The following video describes in detail the device and the operation features of such a model.

It is not difficult to understand how you can make a universal potbelly stove for working out. The lower tank of such a stove is an ordinary wood-burning potbelly stove with grates, an ash collection compartment and a chimney. At the top of this compartment, a container for used oil is installed and a view with a damper is made.

The modernized lower compartment is connected to the secondary combustion chamber by a special pipe, which has air holes and the ability to close them if necessary. The chimney is on top.

If you need to use such a unit as a potbelly stove, you need to remove the oil container and close the view, as well as the holes on the pipe. After that, firewood, coal, sawdust, etc. can be burned in the stove. To switch to mining heating, the steps are performed in the reverse order:

1. Install the oil tank.
2. Open the sash.
3. Open holes for secondary air to enter.

After that, used engine oil can be used as fuel in the potbelly stove.

In order for the work of such a potbelly stove to be safe, it must be cleaned regularly. To do this, the upper part of the secondary combustion chamber is made removable. It is cleaned in accessible places, and the chimney pipe is tapped to remove accumulated soot. In addition, accumulated dirt from the oil tank should be regularly removed.

You may also find the material on general principles work of furnace equipment on waste oil and safety rules: .

During operation homemade potbelly stove at work, some owners of the unit are faced with a number of problems. For example:

• heating of the room is uneven;
• mining during combustion seethes and splashes out of the tank;
• there is a smell of smoke;
• fuel burns too fast, etc.

The problem of uneven heating of the room, when it is hot near the stove and cold in the opposite corner, can be solved by attaching a special “labyrinth” to the secondary combustion chamber. A pipe is led out of this labyrinth, on which a small fan is placed. This design allows you to direct the jet of hot air in any suitable direction. Thus, it was possible to increase the air temperature in the garage to 15-20 degrees Celsius at an outside temperature of -35 degrees.

If a do-it-yourself furnace does not heat the room evenly, you can attach a special “labyrinth” to it, which will allow you to properly distribute heat by supplying a stream of air in the right direction

In many ways, the work of a potbelly stove during mining depends on the correct traction and the size of the unit. Therefore, it is recommended not to make the oven “by eye”, but to use accurate drawings and try to comply with the established dimensions. It should be remembered that the higher the capacity of the fuel tank, the faster the oil will burn, i.e., its consumption will increase.

So that the mining does not hiss, does not boil, but burns calmly, it is necessary to use engine oil that has previously settled and was not drained a couple of hours ago. In addition, it is recommended to fill the fuel tank no more than two-thirds.

A simple internal structure and at the same time high thermal efficiency - these are the qualities that distinguish a wood-burning stove and mining. An elementary design without complex knots allows you to independently make a stove from improvised means.

Homemade stoves are used for heating warehouses, garages, car repair shops, etc.

What is better to make a combined oven

There are several ways to make a wood-burning stove and working out with your own hands:

1. The simplest device made of steel and metal containers (cylinders).
2. Models that use forced air injection - turbocharging.
3. Drip feeding device.

As for furnace equipment with drip feed, it is rather difficult to make it completely safe, calculate the productivity and observe other conditions on your own. For this reason, the choice should be stopped at a home-made universal stove using waste oil and wood with natural and forced air supply.

In the first case, the furnace is made exclusively from steel sheets with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Applicable gas cylinders, which are filled with water before cutting to prevent the remaining gas from exploding.

Two closed containers are made from the cylinder body, interconnected by an adapter - metal pipe, 2-3 mm thick. Holes are drilled in the connector at the same distance from each other.

As a result of the assembly, a kind of attachment for mining is obtained, which is installed on the floor at one end, and the other is built into the furnace of a solid fuel furnace. Home-made universal stoves for waste oil, wood, sawdust and garbage, with built-in water heating, are equipped with an aluminum or copper coil.

A little more complicated is a device with a built-in fan that pumps air for burning mining. Some users install a fan next to the stove, directing airflow into the blower.

Combined type stove for firewood and mining

A universal metal furnace for mining and wood burning has a device in which oil is supplied from above, and firewood is laid from below. In the process of burning solid fuels, the principle of upper combustion is used.

The design of the furnace contains the following features:

• convective channels- wood-burning stove for testing, air-heating. The room is heated by the radiation of heated metal walls. To increase the thermal efficiency, several pieces of pipe are welded onto the body. This is how the simplest air heating device appears, using the principle of convection heating.
• A water jacket is a self-made wood-fired and waste oil stove with a water circuit that allows you to heat not only the room with the installed heater, but also adjacent rooms.
  A simple coil is installed inside the case. A piece of curved pipe of the appropriate diameter will do. For better heat transfer, a copper or aluminum coil is used.
  The heat sink is installed so as to avoid direct contact with the fire. Heating is carried out by means of heated flue gases.
• Firebox - regardless of what it is planned to heat the stove with, use the prefix for mining or firewood, the principle of pyrolysis combustion is applied. To begin with, the fuel itself is burned, and subsequently the afterburning of the exhaust gases is carried out. For this purpose, the design provides for two combustion chambers.

In furnaces with natural air supply and exhaust, special nozzles inside the body are used to ensure the necessary supply of oxygen.

How to convert a wood burning stove

Alteration of a wood stove for used engine oil, does not require changes internal device and heater designs. As a rule, for this purpose, a special attachment for testing is made, consisting of the following units:

• Primary combustion chamber- in fact, this is a mining pan, which has the simplest purpose of storing fuel and providing a sufficient evaporating surface necessary for burning oil.
• Fuel inlet- on the side of the made fuel receiver, a piece of pipe of small diameter is welded. Through the hole, mining will be poured and ignited.
• Secondary combustion chamber- a full-fledged furnace in the device for burning mining does not exist. The afterburner is a bent pipe of sufficient diameter connected to the pallet. Injection holes are made along the entire length - nozzles for the intake of air necessary for secondary combustion during pyrolysis.
• Protective casing - during the modernization of a wood-burning stove for used oil, it is taken into account that the main heating will be carried out due to the steel walls of the stove, and not thanks to the oil burner, attachment. For this reason, the pipe extending from the pallet is bent so that it falls approximately in the center of the open door of the solid fuel heater. A steel casing is welded along the edges according to the size of the furnace wood stove preventing smoke from entering the room.

Refinement of the furnace for the use of oil is not difficult and requires minimal financial investment.

How to use oil in a wood burning stove

An all-in-one stove that runs on both waste oil and wood requires competent operation, the ability to fill and fire liquid fuel. Precautions are especially necessary when operating homemade stoves.

Refueling and ignition are carried out as follows:

• Waste oil can be added to the furnace through a special hole with a pipe located on the attachment, specially made with a small diameter. Refueling during fuel burning is allowed. The pallet is filled to ⅔.
• Ignition - sawdust mixed with used oil is used to kindle fuel. If the mining is cold, after refueling, flammable liquid is added to the fuel receiver. Ignition is carried out using paper twisted into a tube.

After the oil flares up, as evidenced by a uniform hum, the furnace is switched to the long burning mode, covering the slide gate.

On what heat transfer of the furnace is higher - on mining or on wood

Wood heating furnaces, also running on used oil, are gradually becoming more and more popular. The demand and wide distribution is influenced by the possibility of making it yourself, the cheapness of working out.

Operating experience helped to identify the following differences in the use of firewood and oil:

• Heat dissipation - burning oil releases more heat than burning wood. Liquid fuel is cheaper, so it is more economical to heat the furnace by mining.
  Any type of secondary oil can be used for combustion: engine, transmission, transformer. According to the heat release table, fuel oil, when burned, produces 39.2 MJ / kg, firewood only 14-17 MJ / kg.
• Fuel Availability- if a gas station or a car repair shop is located next to the heated room, it is not difficult to get oil.
  The cost for working out will be 1-2 times cheaper compared to how much intermediaries offer it. Firewood is more expensive, but available in almost every region of the Russian Federation.

Combining a mining stove and firewood is quite simple. You don't need to buy expensive equipment for this. Modernization will lead to savings in heating costs by at least 40%.