Clear drawings to create the most efficient do-it-yourself potbelly stove. Do-it-yourself potbelly stove: a diagram of a home-made potbelly stove for a summer residence and a garage The most economical potbelly stove

The potbelly stove is an iron, compact-sized stove with a chimney at the top. It consists of a chamber where solid fuel is poured, a grate in the form of a metal grate, a pipe - a chimney and an ash pan for collecting ash.

With the ability to handle the welding machine, the device is easy to manufacture, and at the same time, it will serve faithfully in an unheated room, in the field, in the absence of central heating for more than a dozen years.

How to do it yourself?

Manufacturing options:

Rectangular oven

It is a metal box, you can independently weld the structure of steel sheets. For a rectangular potbelly stove, an old automobile tank, a box will fit perfectly.

Usually, this form is chosen when it is necessary to cook food on the stove.

On a capacious platform, you can immediately put 2 large pots or containers for heating water.

The manufacturing principle is simple: doors are built to cover the blower and the combustion chamber, a hole is made for the chimney, combustion products must leave the room in a timely manner, otherwise you can inhale carbon monoxide.

From a gas bottle

The most common type of potbelly stove. The cylinders have thick walls, the furnace is durable, mobile, fireproof.

First, a drawing is drawn, markings are made. The door for the combustion chamber will be located in the center of the cylinder. It blew in the same plane, only 10-12 cm lower.

Instruction:

We take a grinder, cut out both doors, draw a closed line between them.
Along the line we cut the balloon into 2 parts.
At the bottom We weld the grate - blower.
Install grate, weld both parts again.
for valve make a hole with a radius of 10 cm.
for hood we insert a hole into the pipe, by welding we weld objects.
simple stove from the cylinder is ready, you can use it, throw in fuel and check its operation.

For cooking on the top of the stove, the design is slightly different:

cut off the top of the balloon.
Inserted inside and welded rods.
Side top cut a hole for the pipe. You can heat and cook food at the same time.
Welded hole, the valve is screwed in, a comfortable handle adapts.
From a pipe, barrels can also be done oven. The barrel or pipe must be selected according to the diameter.
At the bottom of the barrel pipes cut 2 holes for the firebox and ash pan.
Make doors.
Do framing metal strip holes.
Under furnace door at a distance of 10 - 12 cm inside the barrel, weld brackets at the corners, a grate will lie on them, weld it first from any fittings.

When making a furnace from a pipe, weld the bottom of it, as well as a part on top:

Down to the bottom weld 4 legs.
On a surface cut a hole, weld a pipe to it, this will be a chimney.
Weld hinges to the previously cut holes, install the doors. Also, mark and attach a hook so that the doors lock tightly.
For design aesthetics finish all welding seams, clean them 10. Paint the outside of the device with heat-resistant paint. Whatever a factory product, you can sell or successfully use it yourself.

Working furnace

The option is distinguished by a specific smell, which during the combustion of fuel will be emitted by oil mining, even in the presence of an exhaust hood.

Instruction:

To make this model, pick up sheet material at least 4 mm thick, a chimney pipe, individual small structural elements.
Do it on a sheet accurate markings of all elements, having previously drawn a drawing.
embed all elements with a grinder, clean the edges of the parts. Drill holes round shape in the pipe.
Top of the tank cut the pipe hole off-center to the left.
Shifted to the right on the circumference, drill a hole for the connecting pipe.
Got 2 circles, weld them to the pipe, the thickness of the upper tank will depend on its segment.
Decorate the bottom part of the stove in the same way., but now cut the hole right in the center of the marked circle.
cut next second hole, attach the sliding cover to it.
Weld to the bottom plane 4 legs.
Clean seams after welding, paint the surface with high temperature resistant paint.
Connect the chimney to the oven. The mining will be poured into the lower part of the tank, after the paper is ignited, the sliding cover closes, and the mining starts to burn. Oxygen will penetrate through the holes, mining will burn intensively.

Necessary materials, tools

Before starting work, prepare the tools:

metal brush;
chisel, pliers, hammer;
tape measure, chalk;
drill with drills for metal;
grinder;
circles for metal;
welding machine;
protective mask;

For the case you will need a pipe 30 cm in diameter, at least 5 mm thick. You can use sheet metal of the same thickness instead of a pipe.

For the chimney, you should choose a pipe 12 cm in diameter, at least 3 - 4 mm thick. To avoid burning out, a metal box is suitable for the ash pan, so you need to choose a durable sheet metal.

Walkthrough

First you need to cut the metal, taking into account the thickness and length of the desired blanks.

Chamfer parts from parts, the touch to the furnace will be safer, and the welding seams will be strong:

Check the correct markings of the parts before you start cutting them. When cutting, consider the thickness of the walls of the furnace, also the circle.
Bevel the prepared parts to prevent accidental contact with the hot device.
Check all part markings.

The design is installed in the following sequence:

Connect welding machine to the network.
Take electrode with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm, taking into account the sheet or pipe.
Install current strength on the device up to 160 A.
put on special glasses and overalls, protect your hands with leggings.
To the bottom of the oven weld three walls.
Bottom of device place at least 5 cm from the floor.
connect parts at right angles. Check their perpendicularity with a level.
Where needed, straighten the corners of the details.
weld details and joints relative to the floor level, at an angle of 45 gr.
weld a partition between the blower and the firebox, having previously cut holes so that ash does not accumulate.
withstand the distance between the holes is at least 5 cm from the walls of the stove. The distance between the partition and the bottom of the structure must remain at least 10 cm.
Lastly by welding, cut holes for installing a chimney on the rear panel homemade stove.
Make markings, drill rectangular holes in the places intended for the firebox and blower.
Align with baffle all bottom holes. The distance between the walls of the furnace and the upper side edges should be at least 3 - 5 cm. The opening for the blower is slightly smaller, but not more than 5 cm.
Bulgarian cut two holes from metal, form doors. Weld them on the canopies, raise the blower to the maximum to the top of the slab opening so that they do not sag further under the influence of high temperatures.
To the doors weld bolts, they should open and close easily, without obstacles.

After all welding work, check the quality of the seams, tap them. If there are defects, correct them immediately. At the end of the work, weld the upper part of the device.

How to make a potbelly stove of long burning?

In order for the potbelly stove to radiate heat for as long as possible without throwing another portion of firewood, it does not burn out quickly, it is possible, the fuel will not burn, but smolder, the heating process without laying firewood can be extended for several hours.

Making a furnace for long burning slightly different from the usual design.

A balloon is best suited for the furnace:

Cut off the top of it, this will be the lid of the stove.
Punch a hole at the top and side of the stove, this will be the hood.
Punch a hole in the center so that the balloon can be easily inserted.
weld to the cut hole of the pancake pipe, a little longer than the cylinder. The pipe will serve as a blower, and oxygen will flow into the furnace, the fuel will not smolder, but will not burn.
cut off part of the balloon in the center, insert the pipe into the hole as a blower. The principle of operation of a potbelly stove for long burning is to create pressure inside the chamber. After the firewood flares up, a heavy metal circle sinks inside, begins to put pressure on the fuel, creates pressure on it, the fuel begins to experience a lack of oxygen and slowly smolder. The smoke, heading up, goes out through the chimney, the room will not be smoky.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other heating device, the stove has both pluses and minuses.

The undoubted advantages of a homemade oven are:

Compact dimensions.
Use of any available fuel, you can heat with peat, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, coal.
Insignificant costs for the manufacture of the device, basically you can get by with handy materials.
Construction installation does not require laying the foundation, chimney.

The disadvantages of the oven include:

Quite a large expense fuel material, the principle is as follows: while you are drowning, it is warm. To keep the room cool, you need to throw fuel more often, otherwise you can just freeze.
Furnace walls become very hot and may result in burns if touched.
Should not be allowed coals falling out of the oven, this is fraught with fire.

Where can it be applied?

Furnaces were popular in the first half of the last century. They warmed the soldiers' dugouts, dugouts, and heating wagons.

Today stoves are still heated garden houses, garages, warehouses, greenhouses, that is, where there is no gas pipeline, and electrical appliances are inefficient, while burning a lot of electricity.

Types of homemade bourgeois

The material for the construction is cast iron or stainless steel. The furnace consists of a container, an ash pan, a branch pipe, a chimney, a furnace door.

The types are distinguished:

pyrolysis ovens;
with a cooking platform at the top for cooking;
furnaces sheathed with a casing for efficient heat transfer. For homemade, you can pick up an old cylinder, a barrel, a large vat, a can. Furnaces can be cylindrical, rectangular;

Installation safety rules

Any home-made heating device is designed to heat the room, making it more comfortable, but along with this, such devices are far from safe, fraught with ignition, fire.

When installing the structure, it is very important to follow the safety rules:

Bake must be installed on a surface that is resistant to fire, otherwise the floor may burn through. For this, it is good to lay bricks and tiles on the floor.
The walls of the stove should not overheat much; for this, special drywall or other non-combustible material is used in the manufacture.
Fast flammable materials do not put near the firebox, they can catch fire.
take care about ventilation in the room where the potbelly stove will be located. Carbon monoxide should be released in a timely manner, and not accumulate inside the room.
use in production only high-quality, refractory material.

In the presence of panel, wood walls in the house install the oven at a distance of 1 meter from them.
Be sure to mount chimney preferably from one section.
When running a pipe through a wall install a brick thermal barrier. Do not use concrete for these purposes, it crumbles quickly.
for garage better fit the potbelly stove is being worked off, so do not rush to throw out car rims from the wheels.
Don't put the oven near flammable materials.
pipe section just above the roof, make it from non-combustible material, so the stove will cool down much more slowly.
Think well ventilation system, the room should not be burning.
Lay out the floor and walls near the structure with a brick, or facing material, the stove is fire hazardous The same applies to the chimney, the distance to the walls and ceiling must be at least 1.2 meters.
Install for safety metal guard around the device.
grate it is better to make it from cast-iron grates in a set, so it will be easier to pull them out of the furnace.
Install all parts of the chimney only at the top of the structure, they must withstand high temperatures over 300 degrees.
Work the seams after welding with a durable and high-quality sealant.
Do not brush the pipe, metal objects, the pipe walls can quickly leak.
Mounting the chimney, make a rain visor, rain moisture will not get inside the pipe.

For most people, the word "garage" is associated simply with a car storage box. However, there is a fairly large category of car owners for whom the garage is truly a “second home”. They are ready to spend all their free time in it - fortunately, there will certainly always be work here. In addition, the stable reputation of a kind of "men's club" has rightly been entrenched behind the garages, where the uninitiated, especially women, are not recommended to enter.

But only winter is trying to make adjustments to the active garage life - it is extremely inconvenient to work in a frozen room, and just chatting with friends is very uncomfortable. However, resourceful craftsmen always find a way out - they install home-made stoves, designing them on their own or using the advice of their comrades on how to make a potbelly stove in the garage.

We will also contribute to this noble man's cause. The publication will consider several ways to make a potbelly stove with your own hands.

Wood-burning potbelly stoves from improvised materials

The fundamental design of the simplest solid fuel stove is very straightforward. In fact, it is a thick-walled metal containerdivided into two main compartments.

In the upper - firebox, firewood or other fuel is laid, for which a loading door should be provided. The grate separates the firebox from the lower compartment, a much smaller one - the ash pan, which also often plays the role of a blower. Here it is also recommended to install an appropriate door through which regular cleaning potbelly stoves from ash. In addition, slightly opening the door to a certain width regulates the flow of air into the combustion chamber, and, consequently, the intensity of burning firewood. Top combustion chamber a branch pipe is welded for the removal of combustion products into the chimney.

Such a scheme gives scope for the independent design of simple potbelly stoves, and a wide variety of materials or objects and devices that have served their purpose are used as blanks. There is probably no need to learn how to cook a potbelly stove in the garage, real masters, probably, it’s better to just give a number interesting ideas, which can be taken as a basis and supplemented with your own modifications, based on the available capabilities and preferences.

1. One of the most simple options- potbelly stove from the old metal barrel.

The design shown in the figure is simplified to the limit. The master manufacturer decided to abandon two separate doors, combining them into one common one. A metal frame is welded on top of the barrel, which allows you to lay a metal sheet on it, which becomes a kind of “ hob» - on it you can, for example, warm water.

Potbelly stove from a barrel - the design is simple, but with a lot of flaws

The advantage of such a design, perhaps, is only one thing - the simplicity and speed of manufacture, accessible to almost everyone. The disadvantages are much more.

First, the barrel itself is not the best option for a potbelly stove - the walls are thin, their heat capacity is low, and they will not last long - they will quickly burn out.
Secondly, it is quite difficult to regulate the intensity of combustion.
Thirdly, the design is bulky and takes up a lot of space. You can, of course, consider a vertical arrangement, but the main problem is the thinness of the walls, thisAll still not eliminate
And, fourthly, such a potbelly stove is very unsafe in terms of fire protection.

It is better to have such a stove not in the garage, but somewhere on the street, for waste disposal.

2. Something similar, with the same basic disadvantages, but more compact, can be made from a standard 40 liter can.

The scale of work, including welding, is even smaller here. In fact, only the legs (3) and the chimney (2) are welded to the body (1). The door is already ready - it remains standard, only two rows of holes (4) are drilled in it for air access. Inside, a home-made grate made of a metal rod is laid, conditionally dividing the can into two compartments - and the mini-potbelly stove is ready.

3. The use of old gas cylinders. These vessels have thick greasy walls, which are easy to weld and in themselves have a good heat capacity.

The main difficulty is to properly prepare the cylinder for further work, since even with the neck removed, explosive concentration vapors can remain in it. You can meet the advice to fill the balloon with water at night, and then, after draining the liquid, start cutting it. However, as practice shows, this does not give a full guarantee of the safety of work. In this light, the following approach seems to be optimal:

Dig a vertically placed cylinder into the ground in such a way that it is securely fixed for cutting it with a grinder.
Fill it with water under the very neck, let it stand for 2-3 hours.
Draw a line marking the future around the circumference cutting.
Start cutting along the marked line until a through hole appears. Water will start to flow out. It is necessary to wait until its level drops to the level of the cut, and then carefully continue working with the grinder and remove the cover completely.
Now the water can be drained and further work can be continued - the cylinder will no longer pose any danger.

There are a lot of options for stoves-bourgeois from cylinders.

- Often it is made in a horizontal version. The cylinder capacity itself is, in fact, a finished combustion chamber. Dividing it into two with this orientation is irrational, it is better to make it from sheet metal and weld a box-shaped ash pan-blower with own door.

In this case, the grate can be rows of holes drilled in the cylinder body:

If you found a real cast iron of the appropriate size, then you can do otherwise - cut a window in the wall of the cylinder, which will ensure a snug fit for this part:

Another option is a window for installing a conventional cast-iron grate

The furnace door can be made independently, using a fragment cut out for the furnace window, or you can weld a finished part that can be purchased at a hardware store.

The design is installed on their welded pipes or a corner of the leg at a height convenient for operation. A pipe for connection to the chimney cuts into the back.

- In order to save garage space, the cylinder can also be placed vertically. In this case, it is divided into two chambers, brackets are welded inside, on which a self-made round grate is laid, made of a steel bar with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm. Two two rtsy are made - furnace and blower.

The upper cut part can be drowned out - in this case, a kind of hob will appear. Another option is to buy cast iron cauldron desired diameter, which is exactly suitable as a "stub" and turns into a container for heating water or even for preparing a variety of dishes.

original solution- instead of the top cover, a well-fitted cauldron is used

To exit the combustion products, a standard 90-degree outlet with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm is welded at the back, and then the vertical part of the chimney is attached to it.

Another craftsman offers the original design. As a finished part for the potbelly stove, he used an air tank-receiver from the brake system of a truck.

The master did not install ordinary doors. For the blower, a branch pipe is welded in, equipped with an adjustable damper that limits the flow of air. There is also no loading hatch on the side wall of the potbelly stove - it uses the principle of top loading of solid fuel. The top cover is hinged, for convenience it is equipped with an arc-shaped handle.

The internal space of the cylinder is divided into a firebox and an ash pan by a self-made grate:

The design itself is simple to manufacture, but during operation it requires caution when laying firewood. In addition, the process of cleaning such a potbelly stove from accumulated ash will also not be very convenient.

Potbelly stoves similar in design can also be made from scraps of thick-walled pipes with a diameter of 300 - 500 mm.

4. Steel sheet- an excellent material, a do-it-yourself potbelly stove can be made from it, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet.

For example, we can give a drawing of an efficient solid fuel stove, for which you need sheet metal with a thickness of at least 4 mm (thinner walls will simply burn out quickly).

All dimensions are indicated on the drawing brought to your attention, and it will not be difficult for any master to embed the parts necessary for work. The main "highlight" of this design is the presence of two partitions (1). They create a kind of labyrinth for the exit of combustion products, which do not immediately fly into the chimney, but provide maximum heat transfer from the potbelly stove.

A metal plate (2) with rows of drilled holes 12–15 mm in diameter is used as a grate.

It is advisable to "dress" the potbelly stove in a metal casing, using sheet metal 2 mm thick for it. The plates (3) are cut to the size of the side and rear walls and are attached to the stove body either on threaded posts or using bushings 50 mm long (4).

Such an addition to the design of the potbelly stove will solve three problems at once:

The likelihood of accidental burns from the hot walls of the stove will decrease.
The impact of hard infrared radiation from it will decrease, which is far from always pleasant and necessary.
The resulting gap of 50 mm between the walls of the potbelly stove and the screens will create a powerful convection flow of heated air, due to which the garage will be heated quickly and evenly.

This is far from all possible options garage bourgeoisie on solid fuel. and the detailed technology of their manufacture can be found on other pages of our portal dedicated to this issue.

Video: homemade sheet metal garage stove

Now, probably, it makes sense to get acquainted with the design of the stove, which uses such common in garages, practically "junk" material, like used motor oil.

Learn and learn step by step process understandable even for beginners, from our new article.

How to make a potbelly stove at work

In fact, having a supply of firewood in the garage for burning a potbelly stove is far from always convenient. But mining is available almost constantly or it is easy to find. This becomes especially true in large garage cooperative partnerships, where, often, special containers are installed for draining old oil, or in car repair shops. So why not use the opportunity to use almost free fuel for heating?

The design of such stoves and their layout can also be very diverse - from compact bourgeois stoves designed for a small room to large and bulky appliances with high heat output that can already heat large areas.

Nevertheless, the principle of operation and the basic structural elements of all of them are similar. They consist of two containers. The lower one is designed for filling with used oil - it is superficially ignited and brought to a boil there. Oil vapor rise up through a pipe perforated for oxygen access. Here the process of afterburning the rising vapors begins, and their final oxidation and combustion takes place in the upper chamber, which is already connected to the chimney system.

If you look at a photograph of a working one, then the temperature distribution in this heater is very clearly visible by the intensity of the spots of infrared radiation. The lower container with oil does not heat up much: a bright spot is only a visible area of \u200b\u200ban open flame on the surface of burning oil. The main afterburning begins in the upper third of the vertical perforated pipe, and the temperature reaches peak values in the upper chamber - even its thick-walled body is literally red-hot. It is this part of the potbelly stove that gives maximum heat exchange with the air in the room.

The principle of operation of such a stove is necessary to know. This will help to correctly determine the materials necessary for its manufacture - it is obvious that the parts of the vertical pipe and the upper chamber should be the most heat-resistant.

Below are drawings of a do-it-yourself potbelly stove, working according to such a scheme. Almost all dimensions are indicated in them, but nevertheless, for the manufacture of such a heater, a number of explanations are required, having considered this process in more detail.

So, the work on the manufacture of such a stove begins with the selection of materials. First of all, it is necessary to have two pieces of pipe for the bodies of the lower and upper chambers (pos. 2 and 8). The drawing shows a diameter of 352 mm and 344 mm, but such a standard simply does not exist. It is easier to slightly change the data and apply 355.6 × 6 or 325 × 6 mm pipe cuts.

The thickness of the steel sheets used for the manufacture of other parts is 4 mm, with the exception of the top cover (pos. 10) and the partition (pos. 9), which require metal 6 mm thick.

For the vertical chamber, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a wall thickness of at least 4–5 mm is used. The same pipe is required for the chimney pipe.

The process can begin with the manufacture of the lower chamber. To do this, a bottom cut out along the circumference (pos. 1) is welded to the cutting of a 355 mm pipe with a height of 115 mm (pos. 2). All seams in the construction of the stove must be absolutely tight.

The top of this container must be removable. This means that it is necessary to have a cylinder (pos. 3) that would fit tightly, almost without a gap, on the lower one. Pick it up by standard sizes pipes - it will not work, which means you will have to make it yourself. A metal strip 60 mm wide is cut out, which, with the help of heating with a gas burner and using clamps, bends around the body of the lower tank, and then boils with a vertical seam.

Now, according to the resulting ring, you can accurately measure and cut out a cover for it (pos. 4). Two holes are immediately cut out on it - a central Ø 100 mm (pos. 4.1) for welding a vertical perforated pipe, and offset to the edge, Ø 60 mm - it will be used for refueling, ignition and adjusting the supply of primary air for burning oil. A sliding cover (pos. 4.3) is being prepared, which will be fixed in the hole (pos. 4.4) with a rivet or bolt (pos. 4.5).

Then the finished cover is welded to the ring.

A pipe section 100 × 5 mm 360 mm long is marked for drilling holes in it. The top row should be 55 mm from the edge, the bottom row - 20 mm. It is necessary to place evenly 6 rows of 8 holes in each, so that they are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. Hole diameter – 9 mm. Both ends of the pipe are immediately chamfered for further welding during assembly.

The next step is to mount the top chamber. To begin with, two covers are prepared, which have the same dimensions, but differ in the thickness of the metal - the lower one (pos. 7) is 4 mm, and the upper one (pos. 10) is 6 mm. A hole Ø 100 mm is cut in each of them - so, as shown in the drawing. The diameter of these covers, of course, must exactly match the diameter of the thick-walled pipe used, from which the 100 mm high cylinder is cut (pos. 8).

It is immediately necessary to prepare a jumper (pos. 9), which will serve for more complete combustion of rising vapors, preventing them from quickly exiting the chimney, thereby creating an additional afterburner.

The assembly begins with welding the upper, thicker cover to the cylinder.

After the sealed seam is made, a jumper is installed with its maximum displacement to the chimney opening, and boiled from three sides.

Now you can weld the bottom cover. Its hole should be located strictly diametrically to the top.

Very precisely referring to the square, achieving perpendicularity in all planes, they install, grab, and then scald the perforated pipe to the bottom cover.

The chimney stub (pos. 11) can then be welded to the corresponding hole in the top cover.

Welded chimney pipe

From the opposite end of the perforated pipe, also, with perpendicularity, the cover of the lower fuel tank is welded.

This O-ring is then welded to the bottom of the pot.

... and its fixation to the walls of the "pan"

In fact, it remains only to weld the legs (pos. 6) and the stove can be considered finished. For greater stability of the stove, you can weld a rack (in the diagram - III), which will add structural rigidity.

You can, if desired, after stripping it, cover it with heat-resistant paint and safely exploit it.

You can fill it through the neck of the lower container, however, this can only be done safely when the previously filled oil is completely burned out. To avoid such inconveniences during operation, it is recommended to supplement such a potbelly stove for testing with another “option” - a device for monitoring the oil level in the combustion chamber and safe refueling during operation.

To do this, you will have to make another open container, about the same height as the lower "pan". The shape of this vessel special significance does not have. Both of these containers will be located on a common stand of two parallel metal corners.

Both containers are welded to guides - corners ...

Holes of the same diameter are cut out in the bottom of both containers, which are connected by a curved tube.

... and connected by a tube

So, it turned out two communicating vessels. According to the laws of physics, the liquid level in both is always the same. Thus, the owner of the stove always sees the level of oil waste remaining in the combustion chamber, and can replenish the fuel supply without any problems by pouring it into an open container.

True, in order to ensure greater safety, it is also better to provide a protective screen that will cover the open vessel from direct thermal radiation from the combustion chamber.

Now we can say with full confidence that we are ready. It remains only to install it in place, connect it to the chimney, fill it with fuel and conduct a trial ignition.

For ignition, liquid for fireplaces (stoves) is usually used, about 100 ml is poured over the oil into the filler neck. A lighted wick of their rags or paper soaked in the same liquid is also lowered there. Surface burning should begin, which in a few minutes will lead to the oil boiling, the formation of vapors and the transition of the entire potbelly stove to its “normal” mode of operation - this is usually accompanied by a characteristic hum.

In the model under consideration, ready-made parts were used - cuttings of thick-walled pipes. If they could not be found, then quite the same stove can be made from a steel sheet, with box-shaped refueling and afterburning chambers, simply observing certain proportions of their volume in relation to the parallelepiped. The efficiency of the stove will not suffer at all from this. The thickness of the material used is the same, 4 and 6 mm.

Video: mining stove with box-type chambers

Prices for popular models of welding machines

Welders

And what about those garage owners who already have an ordinary solid fuel stove, but are interested in the possibility of using oil mining as a fuel? It's okay - and for them there is an acceptable way out. You can make a special "prefix" that will make the potbelly stove universal.

Such a “prefix” will be able to turn an ordinary potbelly stove into one that runs on waste oil.

In fact, this is the lower capacity of the mining stove, also with a perforated pipe, but only bent at an angle of 90 degrees (by welding in a standard outlet).

She is from a different perspective.

But instead of the final afterburning chamber, an ordinary wood-burning potbelly stove is used, where this curved pipe is connected using an adaptive device. For example, in an ordinary potbelly stove, you can make the firebox door removable and replaceable. One, the usual one, will be installed using firewood, and the other, having the appropriate pipe insertion holeat use of the "prefix" for working out.

In this case, a round plug with a hole for the pipe inlet is used as an "adapter". The regular firebox door is simply thrown aside

Another option is to weld the pipe on the side, into the wall of the potbelly stove - then the stove will generally turn out to be universal. You just have to provide a damper so that when using firewood, the flame does not spread, and the ash from the furnace does not fall into the perforated pipe and the oil container.

Advantages and disadvantages of bourgeois women at work

In order for the operation of a potbelly stove to work out does not cause much trouble, it is necessary to know its features, advantages and disadvantages, which must be taken into account when using it.

The advantages include the following qualities:

The stove is unpretentious, does not require intervention in its work - the main thing is to correctly adjust the air gap on the filler neck (usually it is 10 - 15 mm). It has good heat dissipation, able to quickly heat a closed room.
With proper operation, such a potbelly stove does not smoke, no burning is emitted from the chimney.
To a certain extent, the furnace can be considered fireproof in the sense that the fuel (mining) itself in normal conditions never burns, and in the chamber only the afterburning of the vapors emitted by it occurs.

However, such a scheme has many disadvantages:

It has already been mentioned about the noise of the stove. In addition, you can not get rid of the characteristic smell. However, for garage conditions, this should not have of great importance. Sometimes masters find another solution to a similar problem. For example, an additional air heat exchanger is installed on the upper chamber, through which air is circulated by means of a fan, heating the adjacent room.

Both the combustion chamber (perforated pipe) and the chimney quickly overgrow with deposits of combustion products and require frequent preventive cleaning.
Burning oil in the lower chamber always leaves a coked layer, which is rather difficult to clean.

Video - Stove at work

During the operation of the stove, a number of mandatory rules must be observed:

It is not allowed to use oil mining with combustible impurities, such as gasoline. The mining must be necessarily filtered so that it does not contain solid suspensions.
Working with water is also dangerous - this can lead to boiling of the liquid and splashing of oil with possible ignition. Collection of mining for further use in the form of fuel must be carried out under conditions that exclude the ingress of water.
In no case should such a stove be placed in a strong draft - this can cause the flame to be thrown onto surrounding objects. There must never be any flammable substances or materials around the stove. Be sure to provide reliable thermal insulation of the walls of the room.
The room must have reliable ventilation, since the operation of the stove is associated with intensive absorption of oxygen from the air and the release of carbon monoxide, which is dangerous to health and life.
It is strictly forbidden to use any other flammable liquids as fuel - this may result in an explosion in the upper chamber or chimney.
You should never leave such a potbelly stove unattended. It is strictly forbidden to go to bed in a room with a working stove. Before leaving, you should make sure that the oil is completely burned out, the process of afterburning its vapors has ended.
It is forbidden to pour water on the stove to cool it, to use water to extinguish the fire - this will only aggravate the dangerous situation.
stoves should not have horizontal sections. An inclined section is allowed to change direction at an angle of 45 degrees. The minimum length of the chimney pipe should be 4 m, and the recommended length is from 5 to 7 m.
The recommended filling level during the initial filling of the stove is up to ⅔ of the volume of the lower tank.
When using such a potbelly stove in the garage, there must be a powder fire extinguisher or a box of sand nearby.

So, probably everyone who has stable skills and locksmith work can make a potbelly stove in the garage. It is enough to show imagination or use the drawings of ready-made developments - and everything should work out. The main thing, both in the manufacture and operation of such stoves, is the constant observance of elementary safety measures so that the heater does not cause a big trouble.

Since home-made wood-burning stoves remain the simplest means of heating garages and cottages, in this article we will consider making a potbelly stove with our own hands. With the help of our instructions and drawings, you can make a heater from available materials- a gas cylinder, a steel pipe and even rims.

Making a furnace from a cylinder

From old propane cylinders with a volume of 50 liters, home craftsmen got the hang of making several varieties of wood-fired bourgeois:

simple vertical stove;
Bubafonya long-burning unit, where the fuel is burned from top to bottom;
horizontal furnaces - conventional and with a secondary pyrolysis chamber.

Note. From the former gas tank, installed in a vertical position, it is possible to weld a dropper furnace on oil mining and diesel fuel. How to do this correctly is described in.

It is pointless to disassemble the simplest designs of country and garage bourgeois houses - there are enough similar drawings on the Internet. We propose to consider more efficient, and therefore economical models with modifications that increase heat transfer and efficiency of iron furnaces.

Instructions for Dismantling the Gas Vessel

Combustible propane-butane mixture gas cylinders, heavier than air. To safely cut the tank for the manufacture of a potbelly stove, the remaining mixture must be displaced with water. The correct disassembly technology looks like this:

When the tank is partially empty, continue working and remove the lid. Whatever design of the home-made stove you choose, the balloon will have to be cut, so the filling procedure with water is mandatory.

Vertical model with air chamber

The device of a potbelly stove - a housekeeper on firewood is shown below in the diagram. The modernization consists in adding a separate chamber with a heat exchanger in the form of steel ribs, blown with air through 2 nozzles in the upper part of the heater. Increased efficiency is achieved by forced air supply by the fan, which allows you to quickly warm up the room.

An important point. An additional chamber isolated from the firebox can also serve as a water circuit connected to registers or heating radiators. One caveat: this inexpensive version of the boiler for a summer house or garage must necessarily work with forced circulation of the coolant from the pump.

For manufacturing, you will need additional materials from the list:

sheet metal 3 mm thick on the doors and partition of the chamber;
scraps of thick iron for the heat exchanger;
fittings Ø16-20 mm for grate;
pieces of pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm for air connection and Ø100 mm for the chimney;
asbestos cord, finished handles.

Drawing of a heating potbelly stove of a vertical design

If a propane tank is not available, make a potbelly stove from big pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm with a wall thickness of up to 5 mm. The assembly technology in both cases is the same:

Note. When making a furnace from a pipe Ø300-500 mm, it will be necessary to install the bottom of the ash pan (steel 2 mm), and the air chamber will turn out to be cylindrical.

To prevent the potbelly stove from smoking into the room, install a chimney at least 4 m high (counting from the grate). If you plan to burn sawdust, then the distance between the bars of the grate should be made as small as possible.

Due to its small size and forced supply of heated air, the stove is convenient to use for a variety of purposes - to heat a garage, cottage or greenhouse. Do-it-yourself technology for assembling such a heater is shown in the video:

Horizontal two-chamber stove

In this case, the design improvement consists in installing an additional chamber with partitions for afterburning pyrolysis gases released in the firebox during slow smoldering of firewood. The emphasis is on long burning, so the useful volume of the furnace is not taken away by the ash pan - it is taken out.

To increase the efficiency and heat transfer of the potbelly stove, the body is equipped with flat heat exchange fins on the outside, which is shown in the drawing. According to the principle of operation, the heater is similar to Buleryan-type furnaces: before going outside, the flue gases go around 2 partitions in the secondary chamber, giving off heat to the iron walls.

In addition to two tall 50-liter cylinders or a steel pipe with a diameter of up to 500 mm, for the manufacture you will need:

metal 3 mm for the ash pan and doors;
steel strips 2 mm on the ribs;
any suitable metal for legs;
a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a length of 15 cm to the chimney pipe;
reinforcement for grating reinforcement;
asbestos cord for sealing doors.

Trimming and docking of propane vessels, installation of door frames and ash pans

The manufacture of the furnace begins traditionally - with the disassembly of the cylinders. The bottom part is cut off from one, and in the second, an opening is made for the doors and slot-like holes in the side wall - future grate. In order for the combustion products to pass into the secondary chamber, on the other hand, a round hole with a diameter of about 10 cm is made. The further procedure is as follows:

To from high temperature the bars of the grate did not bend, weld the reinforcement from the reinforcement of the periodic profile from below.
Make a frame on the end and place the door, sealing it with asbestos.
Weld the ash chamber with the door and install the legs.
On the second cylinder, cut out the walls in such a way as to dock it with a horizontal firebox at an angle of 90 °. Inside, fix 2 partitions by welding according to the drawing.
Connect the secondary chamber to the firebox, carefully welding the joint seam.
Install the chimney pipe and external heat exchanger fins.

Advice. Partitions in a vertical chamber are best made from semicircular pieces cut from the sides of the second tank. This will increase the heat extraction from the flue gases.

The resulting potbelly stove for giving is quite capable of providing heating for various utility rooms, including a steam room in a bathhouse. It is easy to adapt it for cooking by making a flat top of the firebox. hob from metal 4-5 mm.

Heater from car rims

The advantage of rims is a decent thickness of the metal. If you make a potbelly stove out of them, it will not burn out for a long time, although you cannot call such a product beautiful. Here are some tips for making:

If the farm found only two rims, can be collected combined option potbelly stoves, inserting a section of a steel pipe of a suitable diameter between them. How such a stove is made, see the video:

Classic steel potbelly stove

From iron sheets with a thickness of 3-4 mm, we offer to weld wood stove shown in the photo. Outwardly, it looks like a classic rectangular potbelly stove with low efficiency (up to 40%), but inside the design has undergone modernization. To make it more economical, two smoke teeth are arranged above the combustion chamber, like those of brick fireplaces.

The partitions inside the body, shown in the drawing, block the cross section of the firebox in the horizontal plane and leave a small passage 10 cm wide for combustion products. The flow of heated gases through two smoke circuits gives an increase in heat transfer by 5-10%, which is much better than factory cast-iron stoves.

Advice. The dimensions of the heating unit indicated on the drawing are not an axiom, you can change them at your discretion. The main thing is to maintain the size (height) of the gas ducts. We do not list the required materials, since their list is obvious - sheet metal, pipe cuttings for the chimney, and rolled metal for grates and legs.

The production order is as follows:

Weld the body of the potbelly stove, starting from the hearth sheet. Primary assembly of parts is carried out with tacks.
Cut and install 2 partitions. For the lower one, located above the flame, it is worth taking thicker iron - 5-6 mm.
Make a grate and place it on supports from the corners welded from the inside to the side walls of the firebox.
Attach a cover and a chimney pipe, mount simple doors with locks.
Finish all seams.

If you expect to heat a potbelly stove with small fractions of coal or sawdust, make a grate from steel corners turned downwards with a profile. Make the distance between them minimal - 5 mm.

Conclusion

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

A potbelly stove is a simple, but very efficient stove that can be used for heating country houses, garages, various buildings under construction and other places. It is an excellent temporary alternative to a full-fledged heating system. For the manufacture of potbelly stoves can be used various materials and hand tools.

Work on the independent manufacture of potbelly stoves begins with the choice of the type of construction. The stove can have a round and rectangular section. Even an old can for water, milk and other liquids is suitable for assembling such a unit.

No expensive materials and hard-to-reach tools are required. Everything you need can be found in the barn or purchased at the hardware store.

Tools and materials for assembling a potbelly stove

Can.
Metal bar with a diameter of 0.6 mm.
Hammer.
Chisel.
Smoke exhaust pipe.
File.

To assemble some models of potbelly stoves, you will need a welding machine, but with a strong desire, everything can be done without the use of welding. Use advantage welding machine in that it can provide more high reliability and structural rigidity. Recommendations for any specific sizes are not given, because. in the case of home-made potbelly stoves, everything is selected individually. When choosing the dimensions of additional units, be guided by the dimensions of the main tank.

First of all, you need to prepare a blower. Take your can and make a hole in it. It should be arranged just below the level of the neck. The sawn hole should be shaped into a regular rectangle. To do this, take a file and carefully sand the edges of the resulting connector.

The next hole must be prepared in the bottom of the can. It must be of such a diameter that in the future the pipe for the removal of combustion products enters it with sufficiently great effort. Define suitable size extremely simple. Prepare markings at the location of the chimney. Mark a hole about 15-20 mm smaller than the diameter of the chimney. Next, you will need to arm yourself with a chisel and an ordinary hammer. These simple tools you will be able to knock out the desired hole. In the end, it remains only to align it with a file.

Take the flue pipe and try to drive it into the prepared socket. If the chimney does not pass, you will have to work with a file for some more time. However, there is no need to be too zealous either. The chimney, as already noted, must enter the connector with sufficiently large efforts.

Take a metal rod with a diameter of 0.6 mm and try to bend it with a snake. In the future, you will use this snake as a grate. The prepared grate must be bent so that it can be properly positioned in the neck. In the end, it remains only to align the grate in the container, and the homemade stove will be ready.

Experts recommend installing such stoves on special stands. So it is more reliable and safe. In addition, the design of a home-made potbelly stove can be improved by installing a damper on the blower. It will allow you to adjust the intensity of traction, fuel consumption and heating level.

Thus, an elementary potbelly stove can be assembled even from an old can. No expensive special devices not required for this job. At the end, it remains only to place the stove in a suitable place and connect the chimney. A homemade stove will provide high-quality room heating until you decide to install a more functional and productive system.

In this case, you can not do without a welding machine. The function of the basis of the structure will be performed by a segment of an ordinary metal pipe. Suitable even old barrel. The assembly will be carried out according to the scheme already familiar to you. Make a grate out of rods and fasten it to the body. The connection is made by welding . This potbelly stove will immediately have 2 dampers: a blower and a firebox. The model can be successfully used both for warming up various rooms, and for preparing a variety of food.

Potbelly stoves are valued precisely for the fact that they are able to warm up the room in the shortest possible time. But at the same time, there is The main disadvantage of such stoves is that after the combustion stops, they cool down as quickly as they heat up.. Metal practically does not accumulate heat.

To eliminate the above drawback, it is enough to overlay a home-made potbelly stove with refractory bricks. It accumulates heat well and continues to give it to the surrounding space for a long time after the completion of the stove. However, in order for the room to warm up, the stove will have to be heated longer than without such a brick fence. But this shortcoming is easily eliminated. It is enough just to make a few ventilation holes in the brick screen. Similar systems are quite often used in baths.

The brick screen is laid out at some distance from the walls of the unit. This is very important point. When choosing a suitable distance, you should focus on the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room and the dimensions of the furnace itself.

A potbelly stove, enclosed by a brick screen, will consume fuel as efficiently as possible and heat the room with high quality for a very long time.

The brick screen in question, as already noted, saves the furnace from its main drawback, which is extremely rapid cooling. You turn off the stove, and it will continue to give heat. However, the device of such a screen must be carried out taking into account a number of important rules and requirements.

Usually laying is carried out at a distance of about 15 cm from the body of the heating unit. Ventilation holes are created below and above the brick screen, thanks to which air can circulate inside the structure. As a result, efficient heating will be organized with the most rational fuel consumption. Warm air will be able to go into the heated room, and the cold air entering in its place will cool the body of the stove, protecting its walls from excessive heating and burning.

In some situations, masonry is performed without a gap between the stove body and the screen, or the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern. This is a completely wrong approach, it is better not to consider it at all. In the absence of a gap, the heating efficiency will noticeably decrease. Excess heat will simply evaporate into the chimney. The disadvantage of the "chessboard" masonry is that under such conditions, the air does not have the opportunity for normal circulation.

The total screen area is much smaller than in the case of solid masonry, which is why the stove will cool down very quickly. The total heat loss will be about 50%. The room, of course, will warm up quickly, but it will also cool down just as quickly. And is there any point in arranging such a screen at all in this case?

If you are very limited in money, you can not buy a new brick, but make a screen from broken and used products. This is not a fundamental point. But if the potbelly stove will be used as a permanent source of heat, it is better to allocate money and do everything in good faith.

An improved model of a potbelly stove

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - a professionally drawn up scheme

If desired, you can somewhat improve the design of the potbelly stove and get a more productive and efficient heating unit. To do this, you only need to prepare a certain amount of sheet metal or several boxes of the same material. As a result, you will get a rectangular stove with a more aesthetic appearance.

The composition of the structure should include smoke circulation. They will significantly reduce the cost of materials for heating. It is also recommended to install control dampers. Thanks to them, you can change the thrust and control fuel consumption as much as possible.

Assembly of the structure is carried out in the same order as in the previous instructions. The differences are only in the shape of the case. Otherwise, the structure is assembled, equipped and used in a similar manner.

Thus, this unit received its historical name absolutely undeservedly. With proper assembly, no excessive fuel consumption is noted. Such a simple, but very effective stove began to be called “potbelly stove” simply because of an erroneous interpretation. However, in order for the unit to fully realize its potential, you need to choose the right place for its installation and adhere to certain recommendations during operation.

Recommendations for the placement and use of a homemade stove

The installation and use of the oven must be carried out in accordance with established and proven technology by many users. If the potbelly stove will be installed in wooden house, the minimum allowable distance between it and the nearest walls will be 100 cm. Safety measures require the mandatory arrangement of a chimney. It is impossible to build up sections, the pipe must be continuous and solid.

In certain situations, it is impossible to solve the problem of smoke removal without building pipes. Craftsmen found a completely safe and effective solution to this problem. The main thing is that the sections are mated as tightly as possible. The lower part is inserted into the upper section, and nothing else.

If the pipe will go outside through the wall, the place of contact between the objects must be equipped with a thermal barrier. Usually brick is used for its arrangement. The use of concrete should be avoided as it loses its strength with temperature changes.

If the pipe will go outside through the wall, the place of contact between objects must be equipped with a thermal barrier

If desired, the potbelly stove can be further ennobled with a variety of accessories, for example, devices for convenient storage fuel. In accordance with safety regulations, fuel must also be stored at a distance from the furnace body. This distance should be at least 1 m.

A properly assembled potbelly stove can heat a room in just 15-20 minutes. If desired, it can be decorated and turned into a wonderful addition to the interior of the room, making it a full-fledged constant source of heat. Stick to the advice given and you'll be fine.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself potbelly stove

Winter in Russia is more than winter. It's no secret that at this time of the year it is uncomfortable to be outside with heating, but what if there is such a need? For example, you need to visit the garage and spend some time there. And the love of the strong half of humanity for gatherings with friends in the company of their iron horse is known to everyone.

Of course, gatherings with even a small “minus” outside rarely bring joy if the garage is not heated around the clock. There is a way out if you can install a home-made potbelly stove in the garage.

Features: pros and cons

The advantages of a homemade stove made from a barrel usually include:

fast heating at the cost of a minimum amount of fuel;
simplicity and accessibility;
the opportunity to make it with your own hands from the most different materials, even henchmen;
unpretentiousness in the choice of fuel (firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat, etc.);
sometimes, for better heating and heat transfer, a kind of “maze” of metal sheets is installed on the furnace.

The statement will also be true enough that the disadvantages of a stove made from a barrel are perhaps more than advantages:

large heat losses and, as a result, significant fuel costs during prolonged use;
if a potbelly stove is made from an ordinary barrel, then one must be prepared for the fact that it will last for a relatively short time due to the insignificant wall thickness - they will quickly burn out;
Poor temperature control
if the potbelly stove is made in a horizontal version, it will take up a rather large space in the limited space of the box;
the vertical orientation of the stove will give a gain in the use of space, but the walls will burn out faster than that of a horizontally placed potbelly stove;
due to the burning of the walls, the stove can be a fire hazard and will require more attention when heating;
such a furnace needs a high chimney with a height of more than 4 m, which will have to be cleaned regularly.

Most of these shortcomings can be eliminated if the body of the potbelly stove is made from a gas cylinder. It has thick, heat-resistant steel walls that weld well.

Preparing an old cylinder for welding is very important because of the possible presence of explosive gas residues inside, even if the neck is removed.

There are several preparation options: you can simply fill the balloon with water and leave it for a long time or add alkaline substances to the water to neutralize the gas. However, this method is considered the most reliable:

the cylinder in a vertical position must be securely dug in order to cut the hole with a grinder;
completely fill it with water, wait a few hours;
mark the cutting line;
cut with a grinder until a through hole appears - water begins to flow out;
complete the cut and drain the water - the risk of fire is guaranteed to be eliminated.

Principle of operation

Let us consider in more detail the scheme of work of a home-made potbelly stove:

through the blower, combustion air is supplied to the furnace;
during the combustion process, heat is released, which heats the bricks and the walls of the furnace;
smoke, soot and combustion products are drawn out through the chimney;
regulation of combustion with obtaining the necessary heat transfer is carried out by increasing / decreasing the open gap of the blower door;
the potbelly stove is heated using different kinds both liquid and solid fuels (wood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat).

Potbelly stove at work

The potbelly stove, which is not fueled by wood, but by used oil, has its own characteristics. It can be either a small stove for an ordinary garage or a device designed to heat large areas. In any case, all models work according to the same principle and have similar designs and the principle of operation.

Potbelly stove has 2 parts. Used oil is filled into the lower part, where it is kindled and brought to a boil.
Vapors are drawn out through a perforated pipe for oxygen access, where their initial afterburning takes place.
The vapors are completely oxidized and burned in the upper part connected to the chimney.
The temperature in the lower tank is relatively low, the upper chamber heats up to the maximum, heating the room. Its walls can even glow from the heat. Accordingly, this affects the choice of material for the manufacture of chambers.

Drawing-scheme of a potbelly stove at working out with conditional dimensions and proportions.

Let's consider the advantages of bourgeois women at work.

Unpretentiousness and "independence". It is not necessary to constantly lay firewood or perform any actions, the main requirement is the correct adjustment of the filler neck gap (10-15 mm).
Efficient heat dissipation.
No soot from the chimney, the stove does not smoke.
Relative fire safety, since fuel exhaustion is difficult to ignite, and only oil vapor burns.

Flaws:

noise;
characteristic odor (it is sometimes eliminated by installing a water circuit or air heat exchanger with a pressurized fan that directs part of the air from the chimney to another room for heating);
the combustion chamber (connecting pipe with perforation) and the chimney have to be cleaned quite often;
the coked layer of burnt oil in the lower chamber is also quite problematic to remove.

When using a potbelly stove with mining fuel, it is necessary to adhere to the mandatory rules.

It is not allowed to use oil mining with gasoline or other combustible impurities.
Particulate filtration is required.
Water must not be allowed to enter the mine.
Strong drafts are not allowed.
Compliance with all fire regulations when installing the stove in the room.
Reliable ventilation is essential.

It is strictly forbidden to leave the stove unattended, to sleep with the stove running.
Do not use water for extinguishing!
Horizontal sections of the chimney hood are prohibited. Permissible chimney slope angle is 45°.
The chimney must have a length of 4 to 7 m.
It is recommended to pour mining into the furnace to a height of less than? volume of the lower chamber.
It is necessary to have a powder fire extinguisher and / or sand in the immediate vicinity of such a furnace.

DIY manufacturing

Drawings and dimensions

The potbelly stove will produce maximum efficiency, subject to compliance with the calculations made.

Consider the design of the chimney.

The vertical part (up to 2 m) is covered with fireproof thermal insulation.
The pipe is inclined or parallel to the floor (2.5-4.5 m), the distance from the ceiling in the absence of heat-resistant protection on it is 1.5 m, from the floor - 2.2 m;
The diameter of the chimney must be calculated with great accuracy so that its operating speed is less than the combustion rate of the fuel, and it would not throw out all the heated air along with the combustion products to the outside immediately, but let it heat the walls, which is the main feature of this type of stove. The calculated permeability of the pipe should be 2.7 times the volume of the furnace. That is, with a firebox with a volume of 40 liters, the chimney should have a diameter of 106 mm.
If there are grates in the potbelly stove, the height of the firebox is calculated from the top of the grate.
Complete combustion of the fuel can be achieved by creating a high temperature, which can be achieved by using a metal or brick three-sided screen around the potbelly stove. Install it with a gap of about 70 mm from it. The reflection of heat also has a fire-fighting function.

A litter or a fireproof surface under the stove is strictly required, because:
- thermal radiation from the furnace comes in all directions, including down;
- the floor may become very hot, and this will lead to a fire.

Sheet metal is used as a bedding, the area is larger than the vertical projection of the stove on the floor by 350-400 mm (preferably 700 mm). Sheets made of other non-combustible materials with a thickness of more than 1 cm can be used.

Chimneys are installed in various premises differently.

Part of the pipe is led out through the garage wall, this is the most common type.
The chimney is completely left inside the garage box and exits through the roof. Thus, the garage is heated better, but the installation process itself is much more time consuming.

Necessary materials and tools

For self-manufacturing potbelly stoves in the garage will require the following materials and tools:

sheet metal for the manufacture of an ash pan and a hob if the stove is located horizontally;
metal for the chimney pipe (preferably with two elbows);
materials for fixing grates and supports;
oven doors;

cast iron discs;
welding machine;
grinder;
welding wire/electrodes;

hammer;
tape measure / centimeter tape;
chisel;
pliers;
drill;
metal cleaning brush;
chalk pencil.

Consider the manufacturing process step by step.

As already mentioned, the furnace can be manufactured in a horizontal and vertical version.
The dimensions of the stove are selected based on the dimensions of the garage box, taking into account all measures fire safety.
The walls must be welded from sheet metal with a thickness of more than 4 mm.
The grate is welded inside the firebox or placed on fasteners welded to the firebox walls from the inside (removable version). It can be purchased in retail chains or made with your own hands from a sheet of steel by drilling holes no more than 20 mm in diameter, or from thick wire.
Weld the bottom.

A convenient hole is cut out for supplying fuel and lower by 5-7 cm - for the ash pan.
Doors can be made from sheet steel yourself, or you can purchase a ready-made cast-iron block.
The stove is installed in the selected location of the garage.
At this stage, the chimney is connected. The longer its indoor section, the warmer it is in the garage, since it also heats the air around it.
At the last stage of work, you need to put the potbelly stove on its legs. They are made from pieces of a profile, connected by welding or screwed to the body with screws. You can also use a metal box without a front wall (used as a woodcutter), bricks or forged elements can also be materials for the base.

Where to place?

Compliance with fire safety rules for garage use and operation of a potbelly stove is vital. Here we are talking about the safety of the car, and the preservation of the life of the person himself. The location of the stove is one of the important tasks. Most often, they choose the corner of the garage box, formed by two walls, which is located opposite the gate. Direct contact between the stove and the car is strictly prohibited.

The distance must be more than one and a half meters. Similar conditions must be observed for the distance from flammable substances and objects.

The surface of the walls near the potbelly stove should be covered with refractory material. They can be additionally overlaid with bricks. If the garage is wooden, then the distance from the surface of the stove to the nearest wall should exceed 1 m.

If a potbelly stove is used for heating or cooking, it is very important to follow the rules for its operation. Their implementation, in addition to fire safety, will help increase its service life.

Before the first kindling of the stove, it is necessary to check and make sure that all connections, assemblies are tight, immediately correct all imperfections in order to avoid the penetration of combustion products and carbon monoxide into the garage room.
For well-defined reasons, the chimney must be brought out. Its part, located inside the garage space, must be sealed.
The chimney is strictly forbidden to lead into the ventilation system. Even if the stove is installed in the basement, it must have a separate chimney.
The passages of the wall or ceiling of the chimney must be insulated with refractory non-flammable materials.

A sand box and a fire extinguisher must be kept in the garage, in accordance with fire safety regulations.
The potbelly stove is also used as a stove and for boiling water. To do this, a hob with burners is installed on it (usually it is made of a cast-iron stove) or a tank for heating water.
The potbelly stove heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly. Such a disadvantage can be partially compensated by a brick screen that accumulates heat and returns it to the room as it cools down after the potbelly stove goes out.

Direct contact of the screen and potbelly stove is prohibited. The gap between them is left at least 10 cm.

Typically, a brick screen is heavy, so it will most likely need its own foundation. Consider the stages of its manufacture.
1. Dig a hole about 50 cm deep.
2. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand (average sand consumption is 3-4 buckets), tamped.
3. The next layer is 10-15 cm of crushed stone, which is also rammed.
4. The laid layers are leveled, then poured with a layer of cement mortar.
5. Wait for the complete hardening of the cement layer. The longer the hardening time, the better (usually the time interval is more than a day or longer, this will give the foundation additional strength).
6. Then lay several layers of roofing material.
7. The screen itself is laid out in half a brick, the initial two rows are made with continuous masonry on roofing material. In the 3-4 row, it is necessary to make ventilation gaps, then again continue to lay the brick in a continuous layer.

The Right Ways cleaning the potbelly stove is mainly reduced to the removal of contaminants inside the chimney, which is relatively rare. Mostly use a brush. It is quite possible to make it with your own hands from a cylinder-shaped brush by tying it to a rope.

It is best to use brushes with bristles made of plastic or iron wire. The diameter of the brush is selected in such a way that there is no significant resistance during the passage of the chimney.

Cleaning is used in order to increase the passage of the smoke flow through the pipe, to improve heat transfer. The sequence of the cleaning process:

plug the furnace hole with a rag;
make 2-3 careful movements with the brush so as not to break the tightness of the chimney (make stops if the brush moves freely);