What is the best way to transplant strawberries in the spring. Transplanting strawberries to a new place in spring, summer and autumn: timing and methods of reproduction. Rules for the correct transplantation of strawberries

Garden strawberries are considered one of the most unpretentious plants, many of its varieties are frost-resistant and not susceptible to diseases. However, it gives juicy large fruits only in the first five years of growth, after which it is necessary to transplant strawberries.

An accurate sign that indicates the need for seating is the presence of a large number of outlets around the main (uterine) bush. They take away most of the nutrients, reducing the amount of fruiting. But these same outlets can be planted in a new place and become full-fledged fruit-bearing bushes.

Plants are transferred to a new bed in almost any month - from June to October. But in spring or autumn, that is, until the fruit appears, it is optimal to do this.

The main goals of regular transplantation
Strawberry yield decreases already after 3 years of growth in one place, and after 5–6 years, the loss of nutrients increases significantly due to the large number of rosettes and the plant practically ceases to bear fruit. This is due to the fact that strawberries, located on one piece of soil for a long time, draw the necessary microelements and other minerals from the soil. nutrients. The depletion of the soil leads to the fact that the fruits become small, low-juicy, the number of new shoots decreases, the leaves may begin to turn yellow.

Experienced gardeners recommend moving the bushes to a new location every 3-4 years, based on the volume of the crop and the appearance of the plant. If there are fewer berries, their number decreases compared to previous seasons, the strawberries look sick, old, the leaves turn yellow, a transplant is definitely needed.

Every year, buds appear on the stems, releasing antennae. Branches serve for reproduction. Every new season these stems "rise" upwards, debilitating the plant. During wintering, such a bush is more prone to freezing.

When is the best time to transplant strawberries?
Strawberry bushes are transplanted in almost any season from the beginning of summer until the end of the fruiting season, which, depending on the variety, occurs in September-October, as well as in spring. Moving to a new location during the flowering period should be avoided as this may reduce yield.

It is easiest to replant strawberries in autumn - the bush has given all the possible harvest, gradually enters a state of rest, preparing for wintering. However, it is impossible to say for sure whether the plant will take root. If strawberries are transferred to a new bed in the spring, it soon becomes clear which bushes have taken root, and the approximate volume of the future crop is determined. It is necessary to focus on winter hardiness, root strength and growth rate.

spring
It is better to transplant strawberries in the spring at the end of March and April, in the middle lane - until the end of May, in the northern regions - in the last decade of May and until the first half of June. General rules for any climatic zones - when transplanting, the soil should completely thaw, and the air temperature should be above +10 ° C for several days. Plants tolerate small frosts well, so you will need to study the weather forecast


Spring transplantation is possible only by propagating the bush. The branch of shoots makes it possible to get the first, albeit small, harvest already this year.

The method of growing seedlings from seeds is also used, but this option is more laborious: seeds do not always sprout, and planted seedlings often do not take root, because they are very demanding on climatic conditions.

In summer
IN summer period it is best to transfer the bushes to a new bed in late July-early August. This is the optimal time for the middle lane and northern latitudes. By this time, a large number of new seedlings appear on the bushes with berries, they are strong enough to grow into a full-fledged bush.

The absence of frosts for at least 2-3 months after transplantation, cool wet weather at the onset of the autumn season will allow strawberries to quickly grow in the next year, take root well and grow before the first cold snap. This makes it possible to get a bountiful harvest at the beginning of the next season. In summer and early autumn, it is convenient to propagate plants by dividing, which is important for varieties that do not give tendrils.

When planting plants in the summer months, it is necessary to carefully monitor the weather. If worth heat air, no rain, planted bushes may not take root.

Breeding varieties tolerate moving to a new place worse, they may not adapt before the onset of cold weather. For them, landing in the spring is preferable.

autumn
If properly replanted in the fall, strawberries will produce a bountiful harvest next year. These terms are optimal for the southern latitudes, where the temperature stays above zero until November. In addition, it is in autumn that the soil becomes wet, the air temperature drops, but there is still enough sunny days For good growth sockets.

A strawberry bed transplanted in the fall will survive frosts well. It is necessary to transfer the bushes 3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, so that the shoots have time to take root and grow stronger.

Terms of transplantation of remontant varieties
Such strawberries, which produce two crops in one season, are best transferred to a new growing place in May or late July, when frost is not expected. You can propagate this variety with a mustache, division, or grow seedlings from seeds. by the most in a simple way reproduction by young shoots is considered, but this method does not allow you to get a crop in the first year.

There are also several types of remontant strawberries, some give new shoots, while others do not. Beardless varieties have several advantages - they are more resistant to diseases, unpretentious to the place of seedlings and weather conditions, ripen even in darkened beds, do not require transplantation up to 5-6 years without reducing the amount of crop


How to transplant strawberries
The simplest, suitable even for beginner summer residents, methods of strawberry seedlings are dividing the bush and propagating with young shoots (whiskers). Growing seedlings of this plant from seeds is more laborious, requires certain skills and suitable temperature conditions, but it makes it possible to try the first harvest in the planting season.

By dividing the bush
Most often, dividing the bush propagates plants that do not have antennae. But this method is suitable for almost any variety. This option has several advantages:

Rooting of seedlings is up to 90%;
transplantation can be performed after harvest, that is, in the fall;
it is possible to renew the beds all season from April to October;
yields are increased by selecting healthy, sturdy rosettes that have already produced fruit this season.
To get started, select the strongest healthy uterine bushes. Then dig out the outlet, remove the dry leaves, clean the ground from the roots. Put the plants in water and divide the bush into separate horns. Cut off dried roots, remove flower stalks.

In humid regions, it makes sense to cut off half a leaf from each plant, which will reduce the evaporation of moisture after planting.

After that, the bushes are sent for growing in pots. Fill a container 8-10 cm in diameter with earth and peat in a ratio of 1: 1, place a bush in the center, sprinkle with soil, water and plant in a greenhouse after 1.5 months. 3-6 weeks depending on appearance Plants transplant strawberries to a permanent bed. For each square meter 5 kg of humus is added, acidic earth must be balanced with dolomite flour (0.5 kg per square meter).

Rooted mustache
From young antennae, a transplant is carried out when the soil is sufficiently moist, the temperature does not rise more than +25 degrees. This method can be used in spring and summer, as well as in early autumn.

The largest number of mustaches appears from mid-July to September. They are already resistant to frost, seedlings quickly take root in the ground and are able to survive even a cold snowy winter.

Mustaches can be planted in separate containers and open ground. Shoots are introduced into the soil after preliminary loosening. In pots or jars, earth is used with the addition of fertilizers. Rosettes are cut from the bush 2 weeks before transplanting.

For strawberries, choose well-lit, windless beds. The plant develops fastest after legumes and nightshade crops, they are considered the best predecessors.


Preparatory work
The quality of the preparation of strawberries for transplanting to a new place depends on what crop the gardener will be able to get next year and whether new seedlings will take root at all.

Choosing a place and preparing beds
Optimal for strawberries is a plot of land with a slight slope. The main thing is that the bed is protected from the cold wind, the illumination is oriented to the east or west. Not suitable for this plant is a shady area, places with high soil moisture. Also, bushes are not planted on hills, where there is high dryness of the soil and rapid evaporation of water.

Peaty, clayey, podzolic and acidic soils are considered unsuitable. It is necessary to prepare the soil two weeks before the start of the transplant, and if it is carried out in the spring, then the bed should be formed before the onset of cold weather in the previous autumn.

After digging, top dressing is carried out with compost, manure, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, and abundant watering is carried out. The ridge should not exceed 50 cm in width, the distance between the planting holes should be at least 30 cm.

Selection and processing of planting material
Transplantation is performed on a non-solar cool day. An hour before planting in the soil, the bed is watered. It is better to use a solution of humus at room temperature. For two hours, the roots are soaked in various infusions:

Ready growth stimulator;
herbal sourdough based on legumes, nettle and double superphosphate;
garlic solution.
For transplantation, you can take bushes that have at least three healthy and strong leaves, the root system is not dried, its length does not exceed 12 cm. There should be no rot on the roots. If they are longer than the norm, cut with scissors.

When transplanting with antennae, strong, developed rosettes are chosen; in the spring, the ovaries are completely cut off. For 2 weeks, it is necessary to divide the shoot with scissors, which connects the uterine bush and the rooted outlet


Landing technology
It is necessary to transplant garden strawberries in summer and autumn according to a certain scheme:

Bushes are planted in the prepared bed at a minimum distance of 30 cm from each other. When planting closer, they will not have enough space for rooting, there may be a lack of nutrients for good nutrition.
If you are transplanting with rosettes, do not dig them out in advance so that the root system does not begin to dry out. Immediately transfer the antennae to the prepared hole.
Pour water into a small hole, place a bush, sprinkle with soil, gently press with your hands and immediately pour abundantly.
In hot weather, the excavated rosette or part of the bush, if you use the division method, must be placed in a solution that consists of manure, clay and plain water. Top dressing will help the root system recover.
With a spring transplant, the depth and landing pattern is different:

The air temperature during the work should not be lower than 6 degrees Celsius.
Dig up a bed, free it from debris and roots of previous crops, feed and moisten.
For uniform illumination of future plants, choose a site directed to the east-west. Groundwater should be below one and a half meters.
Make the beds small, a maximum of 50 cm wide and 20 cm high.
The day before planting, moisten the soil, and before starting work, pour sand into each hole about 10 cm high, fill it with warm water.
Place the dug out outlet, sprinkle with soil, after straightening the roots, pour at least 3 liters of water at room temperature into each well.
Around the bush, fertilize based on peat or humus.
If the weather is hot at the time of work, darken the area for several days until the bush takes root.

When using any method of transplantation, it is necessary to take into account climatic conditions in your area - how often it rains, how long the warm season is, when the first frosts occur on average. Planted rosettes or parts of a bush, as well as seedlings obtained from seeds, must get stronger and take root in order to bear fruit abundantly

Garden strawberries, or strawberries, do not like to grow in one place for a long time, after three or four years from the time of the next move, they again need to look for a new place. It can be transplanted at any time during the growing season - from spring to autumn, but it is best to work in the fall. If you refuse to transplant, the bushes will begin to form fewer leaves and peduncles, and this will certainly lead to a decrease in yield. Even top dressing with effective fertilizers will not help, the plant will definitely remind you of its needs and force you to start transplanting.

Why is autumn better?

After fruiting, strawberry bushes tend to restore the spent nutrients and make reserves for the future harvest. Transplantation and adaptation in a new place are very conducive to this, they activate the forces of the plant, awaken renewed energy in them, and strengthen the immune system.

Bushes grow over the summer, they need to be separated, and thus propagated, it turns out that plants during this period are not transplanted, but seated, propagated.

Cool autumn weather contributes to the survival of plants, because in autumn there is no heat and drought that exhausts all living things. Coolness and a sufficient amount of moisture are the most favorable conditions for transplanting any plants, and strawberries are no exception in this regard.

In addition, in September, when the transplant is carried out, it is still far from real frosts, and the soil is warm enough, the plants will have time to take root, accumulate many useful substances, and grow new leaves. All this will help them successfully survive the winter, and begin to bear fruit the very next year.

In autumn, it is easier for gardeners to work, there is less work in the garden, and besides, the autumn coolness invigorates and gives strength.

Conditions for strawberries

Garden strawberries love loose, slightly acidic soil enriched organic fertilizers. Do not forget that this plant needs sunlight and warmth, although in partial shade you can get a good harvest. Does not like the culture of lowlands with stagnant melt or rainwater. Such areas must be leveled, covered with imported soil and peat, and drainage and drainage must be done.

Most likely, there were some plants in the area chosen for strawberries in the summer. Therefore, it must be cleared of tops and weeds, to cultivate the soil from diseases and pests.

The earth is loosened and poured with a solution of Karbofos, prepared from 10 liters of water and 3 tbsp. poison. If you want to grow organic berries, preventive treatment can be carried out folk remedies, for example, a solution prepared from 10 liters of water, 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, 2 tablespoons of wood ash, 2 tbsp. vinegar, 2 cups liquid soap or detergent. The mixture is watered both the soil and the plants.

It is best to plant strawberries after legumes, carrots, beets, radishes, herbs, corn, dill, green manure. Not the best predecessors are peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, zucchini, potatoes, raspberries, cabbage. After them, many larvae of the Colorado potato beetle, wireworm, and other insects remain in the soil, which can spread to strawberries. In addition, nightshade is very susceptible to phytophthora, which will also harm garden strawberries.

Getting Started

The plantation is watered, the earth should be moist, so it will be easier to extract the roots without causing them any harm. The bushes are carefully dug up with a spatula, divided into two or three parts, depending on how much they have grown. The young growth is separated from the old, it makes no sense to transfer the old bushes, they need to be thrown away. Thus, transplantation is also renewal, replacing old plants with new ones.

Each bush intended for transfer to a new place should have roots about five centimeters long, and 4-5 stems with leaves. Roots need to be processed hot water(+40 degrees), soaking for 10-15 minutes, then lower into cold water for 10 minutes.

You can apply a slightly pink solution of manganese, this tool is great for disinfection and additional feeding. After disinfection, the roots are dipped in a solution made from manure, clay and water, this is necessary for enrichment with nutrients and better adaptation.

Then they are planted in grooves or holes dug in advance and slightly flooded with water. Plants are placed in moist soil, sprinkled, compacted and watered. Water should be summer temperature, about +18-20 degrees. The interval between the bushes is left within 25 cm, between the rows should be at least 80 cm. Now the ground around can be sprinkled with straw, sawdust, wood shavings.

Let's not forget about top dressing, for successful adaptation and wintering, plants need nutrients that are contained in humus. It will take 8-9 kilograms per 1 square meter. Superphosphates - 80 grams, and potassium salt - 50 grams per square meter will not interfere. Fertilizers are best applied during soil preparation for transplantation or after work has been completed.

In order for strawberries to be better accepted and prepared for winter, you need to take care of them - loosen the ground, water, remove weeds, and carry out pest control.

The first 7-10 days, watering is carried out every other day, then their number is reduced, but the soil should not dry out. It is desirable to water under the roots so that drops of water do not fall on the leaves.

Antennae, which may already appear in a new place, are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation of new plants. Now he faces other tasks - to strengthen the roots and stems for a successful wintering.

If the winters in your area are snowy, after a sufficient amount of precipitation falls at the beginning of winter, the plantations are additionally sprinkled with snow collected from other sites. If there is no snow, and the frosts are severe, shelter is indispensable. For this, it is best to take a pine spruce branch. It is not advisable to use straw or hay - mice start up in them, besides, they cake under the snow, and prevent air from penetrating to the roots.

For shelter, you can also use agrofibre, for example, agrotex, with a density of 60 g / square meter. The canvas is installed on metal arcs or directly on the plants, without pulling much, however, in this case, the stems that touch the canvas may freeze slightly, it is still better to install the arcs.

The lifespan of a strawberry plantation depends on the variety and agricultural practices. Experienced gardeners advise updating the berry bush every 3 years, in extreme cases - after 4-5 years. Not only plants are subject to replacement, but also their location. . Autumn (or late summer) planting in the open field is more preferable than spring.

Strawberry bushes planted in autumn will give the first harvest next summer.

1. A whole year of active fruiting is won . Well-rooted and strengthened plants will successfully lay flower stalks and fully bear fruit next season. If planting is postponed until spring, the yield from the bushes will be significantly less.
2. In spring, planting dates are more compressed, and at the end of summer and autumn there is an opportunity to take your time.
3. The gardener usually has more urgent, physically costly cases in the spring.
4. The choice of strawberry seedlings at the end of the season is varied, its quality is good. The price is lower than that of seedlings in spring.
5. At the time of autumn coolness and rains, strawberry plants take root better.

Dates for laying a strawberry plantation

The gardener faces two main tasks when choosing specific transplant dates: and taking care of the maximum yield next year.

Autumn planting is calculated so that the seedlings have one and a half, and preferably two months for rooting.

New plants that are too late can become very cold or even die - in harsh winters or in the off-season. In Central Russia, in Altai, in the south of Western Siberia, on Far East strawberries are planted from late July to late August; the first half of September is also considered an acceptable option. In the southern Russian regions, in Moldova, in Ukraine, it is not too late to plant strawberries in October.

When transplanting strawberries, it works general rule: the earlier this work is carried out, the more abundant the harvest next year. The earliest dates are focused on the appearance of the first strong mustache. Best Option For Middle lane- sit down until August 10.

seedling quality

Young bushes of the current year take root best of all.

Agronomists and experienced gardeners categorically do not recommend replanting adult bushes (even young ones). Only young strawberry plants are suitable for planting. There are four options:

1. . The gardener receives them on his site or purchases them (in a store, in the market, from neighbors or friends).
2. Some varieties (modern large-fruited hybrids, small-fruited forms). Strengthened young seedlings (usually with a closed root system) are planted in the ground during the summer.
3. Healed seedlings are grown from cells in special laboratories . This is microclonal (meristem) reproduction, the method "in vitro" - "from a test tube". Such plants are sold in reputable garden stores and are quite expensive. But they are completely free from viruses and infections, convenient for further reproduction.
4. In rare cases, when a strawberry variety produces little or no mustache, division of the old bush is allowed.. Planting material is a separated horn with a piece of a young white root.

Transplantation of old bushes with division is usually used only for strawberry varieties that do not produce a mustache.

Standard strawberry seedlings have at least 3 or 4 healthy leaves, a strong base (its thickness depends on the variety), a healthy heart, a fibrous root system 5-10 cm long. The roots should be light and tender. Old bushes have hard brown roots, and gray roots with black tips indicate stale or improper storage of planting material.

If seedlings with a closed root system are purchased in July - September, then they must be grown from the mustache of this year (and not from last year); it is desirable that the roots are well braided with an earthen ball. Greenhouse, pampered seedlings require preliminary hardening in the fresh air.

The best predecessors of strawberry beds

The best option is when new strawberry beds are placed after the earth has rested for at least a year under green manure.

A garlic bed is a good place to plant strawberries.

In small gardens, this is not always possible, where strawberries are often planted on a site that has recently been vacated after harvesting winter garlic and asparagus beans. This good predecessors for strawberries, as well as vegetable roots.

It is not recommended to lay a strawberry plantation after uprooting raspberries . It should not be placed after onion beds, as well as after representatives of the nightshade family - potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, physalis, nightshade, tobacco. Flowers belong to the same family: petunia, fragrant tobacco, datura, schizanthus. With such plants, strawberries have common diseases and. And of course you can't. You can return the berry to its original place in 3-5 years.

After transplanting, you can plant garlic nearby.

Site selection

In areas with problematic groundwater, it is better to plant strawberries in high beds.

Strawberry plants will not be too comfortable in cold swampy lowlands or on hot southern slopes. If groundwater is close, the beds are raised. On hilly terrain, terraces are arranged across the slope, preventing soil erosion.

Strawberry shade tolerance is a myth. Large-fruited varieties give a solid harvest and suffer less from gray rot only in well-lit places.

The best place to place strawberries is a cultivated pillar after uprooting a deciduous forest. But such an opportunity falls to gardeners not so often.

Soil preparation

You need to dig up the site at least a month before planting.

Before you prepare the soil for strawberries, you need to remember about the needs of this crop and the type of soil on the site.

• Strawberry plants do not thrive on soil that is alkaline or too acidic. They prefer soils that are neutral or slightly acidic (with an acidity of 5–7). Acidic soil requires preliminary deoxidation. It is better to do this in advance, under the previous culture.
• Strawberries love soil structure such as light loam and humus-rich sandy loam. Heavy soils need to be cultivated with organic matter.

Infertile soils are fertilized with compost or manure.

It is very important to clean the land from weeds as much as possible.. For this, various methods are used:

1. deep digging with a careful selection of perennial roots;
2. pre-treatment of the territory with herbicide chemicals (weed killers);
3. covering the soil surface for several months with dense materials;
4. annual exposure of land under fallow, .

Planning a site for planting strawberries.

The choice of a specific method depends on the size of the area, the timing, financial and technical capabilities of the gardener.

• The surface of the earth on the beds or plantations should be as level as possible.
• The required depth of the loose layer (when digging or creating a bed using biotechnology) is 20–40 cm.
• Serious scientific studies have shown that the quality of soil dressing before planting strawberries affects the yield much more than anything else. Focusing on soil fertility, 5–15 kg of compost or rotted manure, wood ash (half a liter), humates (according to packaging instructions), 30–50 grams of superphosphate and 20 grams of potassium sulfate (or complex mineral fertilizer, organomineral fertilizer).

It is believed that from digging to planting, you need to wait 2-4 weeks for the soil to settle a little. In reality, it is not always possible to meet these deadlines (for example,). Early disembarkation is always a priority.

Landing patterns

When planting strawberries in rows between seedlings, maintain a distance of about 30 cm.

One of the most controversial and discussed issues is the distance between strawberry bushes. Experienced gardeners often promote sparse planting. Indeed, this is how the bushes bear fruit abundantly (and look colorful in the photo), but in terms of yield from the area, the owners often lose.

Thicker bushes of varieties that are genetically resistant to gray rot, as well as having compact foliage, can be placed. High-quality mulching, the habit of using fungicides () and stimulants (Epin Extra, Zircon) also allow you to place plants more often.

On meter-wide beds, strawberry bushes are usually arranged in two lines with a distance between them 60–80 cm. Plants are spaced 20–40 cm apart in a row.

Pay attention to the transplant scheme.

Sometimes, when planting in a row, thickening is done: two seedlings are placed in one hole or the distance between the holes is 15 cm. The next year, the maximum yield is removed from young bushes, and then every second bush is removed from the plantation. Such an intensive technology requires a high level of agricultural technology.

The use of black agrofibre

Planting strawberries on agrofibre is a great way to get good harvest, spending less effort on watering and weed control.

The modern technology of planting strawberries on black covering material has many advantages (minimum weeds and infections, saving heat and moisture, cleanliness of the crop). Planting strawberries on agrofibre involves especially careful preliminary preparation of the site: the selection of rhizomes of perennial weeds, leveling the surface, waiting for soil shrinkage.

The dimensions for the beds are chosen with a focus on the width of the agrofibre.

The material is rolled out in the garden and the edges are sprinkled with earth.

Covering material is laid with the porous side up so that it passes moisture down. The joints of the panels are joined with an overlap of 20 cm. The agrofibre is fixed in the soil with long wire pins or special nails; The edges of the material must not be pulled up. With a continuous covering of the plantation, boards are laid out on it to make it more convenient to walk.

Places for holes are marked on the surface of the material, then small cross-shaped incisions are made for planting bushes.

Seedlings are planted in holes through holes cut in the agrofiber.

Rules for planting strawberries in the fall

1. Seedlings with an open root system should be as fresh as possible. . Before planting, it cannot be placed in water, it is better to dig in the shade - in slightly moistened ground, without falling asleep hearts.

   

   Looking for the right mustache.

2. Before planting, the mustache can be kept in a root stimulator (Zircon, Heteroauxin, Kornevin, NV-1 - according to the instructions, without overexposure). Kornevin is recommended to powder the roots (especially if they are small) immediately upon planting.

   

   Rooting stimulator good helper gardener.

3. For transplanting strawberries choose a cloudy day, rainy weather, evening hours .
4. Before planting, holes are dug in the beds, sometimes they are additionally filled with compost and ash (on a handful). Pre-watering of seats is required.

   

   Planting holes are filled with nutrient mixture and thoroughly watered.

5. Long roots of seedlings are cut to 10 cm . In the holes they are placed vertically (without bending), tightly compressed with soil.

   

   Containers are placed along the wells, which are cut right on the spot.

6. The most important thing is to maintain the desired landing level.. The heart must not be buried much and sprinkled with earth !!! It should rise slightly above the level of the bed, but so that the roots do not stick out.

   

   The voids are carefully filled with earth and again spilled with water.

7. The plants are then watered (possible with Kornevin or HB-1). When the water is absorbed, the settled bushes are slightly pulled up, corrected.
8. Soil surface is mulched .

   

   The surface of the earth around the strawberries is covered with sawdust and covered with straw.

9. The first few days, strawberries need protection from the scorching sun. . Plants are covered with thin white agrofiber or simply burdock leaves, newspapers.
10. A few days later, the beds are inspected, mustaches are planted to replace the dead.

New plant care

In dry weather, you need to regularly moisten the soil under the bushes.

When watering, along with water, you can make instant fertilizers.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the growth point remains on the surface, and the roots are not exposed. If the soil is well seasoned, additional top dressing is not needed. It is only possible to carry out foliar feeding with Zircon and Potassium Monophosphate, so that the plants grow roots better and become stronger. It does not interfere with the treatment of diseases. .

When the soil begins to freeze slightly, strawberry beds are covered for a successful wintering.

Video about the autumn planting of strawberries on covering material

When to transplant strawberries? This question is asked by many gardeners who decide to plant a sweet berry. Despite the unambiguity of the question, the answers to it may be different.

What is suitable for transplantation

It is better to transplant strawberries that have reached the age of two. Such bushes have already developed their leaf and root systems to the maximum, but have not yet begun to age.

One-year-olds can also be transplanted, but only those that have grown out of the mustache. It is advisable to take only the bush that grows from the very first mustache. Such specimens usually have a well-developed root system, which increases the chance of a good start in a new place.

Strawberries need to be replanted every 3-4 years, since it bears fruit well on plantations only up to 5 years, after which it first reduces the yield, and then the plantation completely degenerates. For this reason, strawberries are often transplanted not in individual bushes, but in large quantities - in whole plantations.

How to transplant strawberries (video)

Optimal transplant timing: when in spring, in August, in autumn

In order to understand when to transplant strawberries, you need to know what you expect from this process. You can transplant bushes throughout the growing season. The main thing is to plant in warm enough soil so that the roots can develop. The timing of the first fruiting also depends on the timing of planting.

Transplantation in different time periods has its own characteristics.

• Transplanting strawberries in the spring. This season, you should try to transplant as early as possible - as soon as the earth warms up by about 10 cm. It is more difficult to transplant strawberries in spring than in other periods. This is due to the risks of late frosts and the weak activity of transplanted plants. For this reason, it is necessary to decide when to start transplanting in the spring, taking into account regional characteristics. The limiting spring factor is not only the risk of frost, but also the likelihood strong winds which reduce the comfort of temperature and humidity. Try to choose calm cloudy weather with light rain for transplantation. Before you start replanting strawberries in the spring, you need to abundantly water those bushes that are supposed to be dug up, as well as the place of future planting. Bushes weakened during the winter are fed even before planting. They are kept for 20-30 minutes in a pre-prepared solution, which includes clay and manure.

• Summer activities. When is the best time to transplant berries in summer? The answer to this question is unequivocal - in the period from July to August. The advantages of the summer and autumn period are that at this time there are already young bushes that have sprouted from the mustache. They have not yet taken deep roots, so transplanting strawberries will not be laborious - it will be enough to pry a bush with a small clod of earth and dig it in another place. There is only one drawback here - the roots of this young plant are weak, so there is a risk of its death. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly prepare the ground, make a hole around each bush, and water regularly until the strawberries take root. So that after watering a crust does not form on the soil, it is necessary to constantly loosen.
• Autumn transplant. Autumn is best time for transplanting strawberry bushes. In autumn it is already cool and there is more moisture, which reduces the laboriousness of the process and increases the survival rate of the bushes.

It is especially good to transplant strawberries in the fall. This is due to the fact that it blooms and bears fruit early, so replanting it in the spring may not result in a crop this year.

It is better to transplant strawberries in autumn from the end of August to the end of September. However, these numbers are averages. In different climatic regions, this interval may be longer or shorter. It is best to focus on the timing of the usual onset of the first frost. In order for the plant to have time to take root, you need to plant it 20 days before the first frost.

However, even in the fall, doubts may arise about when it is better to transplant strawberries. It would seem that cool autumn does not impose restrictions on the time of transplantation. And during this period it is better to adhere to the principle of cloudy weather and the afternoon.

Basic transplant rules

The basic rules, nuances and technological methods for transplanting strawberry bushes are clearly shown in the attached video. Here we give only the main principles and rules.

• Do not dig up strawberries ahead of time, as the root hairs become weathered and dry out. Even overexposure of bushes in a plastic bag or in a vessel with water negatively affects the root system.
• Some guides on how to properly transplant strawberries and strawberries advise cutting the roots and shaking off the earth from them. The rationale for this advice is ambiguous. Both of these procedures lead to severe damage to the roots, especially the root hairs, which break with the removed clods of earth. All this reduces the survivability of the planted bushes.
• When transplanting bushes with a large number of leaves, or even more so with flowers, you need to remove the flowers and part of the leaves, leaving 3-4 leaves. This will reduce the intensity of water evaporation, which is extremely important for damaged roots.
• After many plants have been transplanted at once, mulching with leaves, sawdust or peat should be carried out. This will avoid the need to frequently water the updated beds. Especially plentiful mulching should be carried out during the autumn transplant.

Strawberries: feeding and care (video)

• It is necessary to plant bushes taking into account their growth. The gap between the rows of strawberries should be approximately 40-50 cm, between the bushes - no more than 30 cm. The width of the bed itself should not be more than 80-90 cm.
• If you plant strawberries with a mustache, then try to select only those specimens that are closest to the mother bush.

Reviews and comments

Anyutka 25.05.2016

I tried replanting strawberries in August. Yes, it already bears fruit in the spring, but during the winter more than half of the bushes disappear, not much takes root. I prefer to transplant strawberries in the spring: this way you can see how many have taken root, you can plant instead of the missing ones. Usually berries are in the same season on transplanted bushes, however, not many. But over the summer, the bushes grow and give an excellent harvest the next summer.

Love 23.09.2019

Good day! Share your experience or thoughts. I want to dig up strawberries, plant them in takanchiks for the winter, and plant them in fertilized soil in the spring. What is your opinion, will it be good? the site is not large, it is not possible to transplant to a new place, and, I think, it is too late already in the winter, so as not to die.

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Young strawberries can be transplanted at any time, but in this article we will tell you why this should be done in the fall.

Why transplant?

• Strawberries are transplanted in order to rejuvenate plantings.
• It is good to keep a bush in one place for 4 years.
• If a transplant is used in the fall, in the first year of life, young bushes give a low yield.
• The second year marks the peak of productivity.
• In the third year there will be a decrease in it, as in the next year. Therefore, in order to obtain high yields, it is necessary to periodically rejuvenate the culture.
• In the fourth year, it is worth replacing the landing site. Since there is an accumulation of fungi and pathogenic bacteria in the soil.
• If you leave the culture in the old place, the yield will greatly decrease, and the berries will be smaller.
• Old bushes should be destroyed, as there will be no use from them in a new place.
• Two-year-old or three-year-old specimens are planted.

Timing

Strawberry transplanting can be done at any time except winter.

• If to speak about spring transplant, then the following can be noted here: the seedlings develop well, but there will be no flowering. Harvest will be only next season.
• In summer when harvesting, seedlings can also be planted. Planting time is the last decade of July. During this period, the plant takes root well, even gives young growth. But it is good in those regions where there are precipitations. In dry places, the culture may not be accepted.
• The most favorable time for planting is autumn.. Since the earth accumulates enough moisture. The temperature is dropping, but the ground is still warm. Before wintering, good rooting and the formation of green mass are carried out. Planting time is September. The next year there will be a harvest, although not as plentiful as in the second year after this procedure. The only thing the plant can expect is a winter without snow, which can kill the plant.

  Gardeners, in order to save young seedlings, resort to soil mulching or cover beds. In the spring, in case of freezing of some specimens, young animals are replanted.

Place to plant in autumn

First of all, what do you need pay attention when choosing a place planting for strawberry culture is her predecessors.

• Not recommended plant strawberries after potatoes And tomatoes. That is, after all nightshade crops.
• Bad precursors are also cucumbers.. These crops draw nutrients from the ground and have similar diseases.
• And here onions, grains and legumes cultures are beautiful predecessors.
• In addition, tops from peas and beans are useful for bedding.

The site should have a slight slope so that moisture does not accumulate in the pits. Only 2 degrees of inclination is considered sufficient.

It is good to have snow barriers on the site. This will allow moisture to accumulate. Or choose a site without winds.

If groundwater passes under the site, then the low level of occurrence is optimal for the culture.

planting material

How to transplant?

• The soil is prepared in the summer for autumn planting.
• The earth is dug up and freed from debris if it is tops from legumes, it must be left.
• Approximately 2 months before planting, fertilizers are applied. For each square meter, the dosage is used: 60 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate, 10 kg of organic matter.
• If you take ready-made fertilizers For berry crops, for example, Giant, then they should be made 7 days before planting.
• Time should be chosen in the evening or overcast day.

Step-by-step instruction

top dressing

All of these top dressings are applied only after watering with clean water, so as not to burn the plants. Also, fertilizers should not fall on the green mass.