All about the bath how to build. Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of a Russian bath. What material to build a bath at home yourself

You can build a Russian bathhouse with your own hands from beginning to end, mount windows and doors on your own, put in your own hand-assembled wooden font, furniture. But first you need to competently raise the log house, lay the floor, sew up the ceiling, build a stove. Studying step-by-step instructions and professional advice will help with this.

Russian bath: features of its action

The temperature of the human body does not exceed 40 °, because he sweats, due to which he gives off excess heat to the surrounding air with the release of excess fluid. This is the principle of operation of any type of bath. The differences are only in the ratio of temperature and humidity.

In the Turkish bath (hammam), the humidity reaches 100%, and the temperature of the air, stone floor and benches does not exceed 40 °. In the sauna (Finnish bath), this ratio is completely opposite. At 120° humidity is only 40%.

But the combination of temperature and humidity that is optimal for health (and there will be no negative consequences from such a procedure) can only be maintained in a Russian bath, but only if it is correctly designed and built.

A bath cannot be called a cheap pleasure. If you order its construction on a turnkey basis, the amount may be unbearable. With average prices for materials and work of specialists, you will have to pay from 7 to 22 thousand dollars. The simplest bath can be built independently, significantly saving money.

The device of the Russian steam bath

Russian baths, as close as possible to traditional ones, are returning to fashion. They have their own characteristics:

the foundation is a boulder stone that does not require a plinth;
walls - a log house, wild, debarked and dried, selectively chopped logs that have not undergone any other processing;
assembly without metal parts such as nails or corners;
caulking with natural materials such as tow and moss;
insulation with natural materials, such as peat or moss;
waterproofing - natural resin;
roof - shingle, sod or shingle;
the stove must be stone;
a font - a barrel, a pool (you can always run out into the street and plunge into a river, lake or rub yourself in the snow).

All this creates a lot of unnecessary difficulties, the bath itself is generally combustible and short-lived. But there is every opportunity to independently build a bath with the same qualities, but much more practical, modern. It is recommended to make a sauna house not only with a steam room, but also with a washing room, where there is a font, a tub for dipping or a shower, and a dressing room.

dressing room

They undress in it, store towels, sheets, bowls and brooms, rest between visits to the steam room, drink tea. This room serves as a barrier to cold air. There is a window (for security reasons, and for beauty).

steam room

It has a heater with a water tank, beds or shelves for lying. The furnace provides uniform strong heating and exposure to superheated steam without convective air mixing. The steam room may have a small window for ventilation, which will help to avoid waterlogging (one or two ventilation holes can be made for the same purpose).

washing

The heat in this room comes from the rear wall of the furnace. After visiting the steam room, you need to cool off in the font or in the shower, due to which toxins and toxins are removed from the body. At the same time, sweating does not stop, but due to high humidity it also intensifies. Washing according to the principle of action resembles a hammam.

Preparing for construction

On a small plot, you can build a small bathhouse, which can comfortably accommodate three to four people.

Location selection

If the area is small, then you don’t have to choose much. But if it is spacious, then there is an opportunity to use all the possible advantages.

The simplest and cheapest foundation can be limited if the site has good solid soil and deep groundwater. The bath should not be close to the well, as it is considered a source of pollution, the house (so that the moisture from the drain does not damage the foundation), the toilet and compost pit(so as not to blur their content).

The choice of material for the walls

Although a bathhouse can now be built from anything, for example, from brick, polystyrene concrete, aerated concrete, expanded clay or foam blocks, there are physical laws that confirm the appropriateness of the conservative practice of our ancestors. And all due to the fact that it heats up a lot, and then cools down, high humidity is created in it, and after airing the rooms dry quickly. Blocks and bricks in this mode should have a special multilayer cladding.

The tree may not have any cladding. In addition, it is this material that, when warmed up, gives an exceptionally healthy and healthy heat. Therefore, for aesthetic and practical reasons, it is recommended to dwell on it.

The choice of wood species

The intensity of the steam depends on the wood from which the walls of the steam room are made:

Linden with its low heat capacity gives light, non-load steam. In such a bath, the air is always hotter than the walls, and besides, they are very useful. But you can’t find fake logs anymore, they are practically not harvested.
Oak with a high heat capacity gives "vigorous" steam, hard to bear. In addition, the walls add temperature. Oak logs are incredibly expensive, so they are usually used only as lower crowns.
The best option is conifers. The heat from the walls and air in such baths is approximately the same. In addition, the material is quite accessible. The best conifer tree for a bath log house - larch, however, you will have to fork out for its purchase. If this is not possible, then pine or spruce will do.

What you need to pay attention to when buying wood:

How to choose the right type of lumber

Glued imitations are suitable for any building, except for a bathhouse. The slats from which the beam (or log) is made warp and deform from temperature.

A solid beam can be profiled or ordinary edged. The main disadvantage of the second type is frequent warping as a result of air drying. Profiled timber is expensive, and not everyone is suitable for building a bath, for example, material with notches at the top is not suitable due to the collection of condensate in them.

Therefore, most often it is a log that is used for the construction of a bath. Raw, or wild, is difficult to buy. Therefore, it is recommended to choose a rounded log: it is well dried, even. It should not have radial cracks, as condensation accumulates in them, and this leads to decay. Similarly, it should not have cuts in the upper part. For cutting into a bowl, the log must have a so-called lunar groove at the bottom.

In advance, you need to choose the cutting method. There are several options for decorating the ends of logs and collecting them into a structure:

"into the bowl";
"in the paw";
Canadian felling.

How to make a drawing of a bath

Since the length of the rounded log is 6 meters, it would be logical to take this into account when designing a bath, making its side exactly like that. The building must have a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and a stove. The height of the bath is usually determined solely by the possibilities, but traditionally from floor to ceiling should be 220 or 230 cm.

Coordination of the project in administrative bodies

This is a key step. Without approval of the project before the start of construction, an already built bathhouse can be demolished due to any complaint from the neighbors, and you will lose the invested labor and money. The project should include the following items:

Approximate material calculation

To carry out the calculation, you need to take into account what diameter the log will have. For a bath, a larger one is better, but it is more expensive. The optimal diameter is 280 mm. The cost of 1 m 3 of such logs with cups is on average about 8 thousand rubles.

Now you need to determine the height of the pediment. To do this, it is recommended to focus on natural conditions. With a large amount of precipitation, the pediment should be high, and the roof should be steep so that the snow does not linger badly on it, and when strong winds on the contrary, so as not to create excessive windage. The average height of the pediment is 1.5 m.

Photo gallery: drawings of a log house and the necessary parameters

Top view and log section parameters A drawing of a log house will help in filling in the initial data To calculate the amount of material, you must fill in all the initial data A special calculator can help with the calculation. All values can be entered in a special table

What tool will you need

To build a bath with your own hands you need:

electric saw;
grinder with a set of disks;
drill with various drills and grinding nozzles;
planer, jointer (or electrical analogues);
axes;
scrap, mount;
pincers, nail puller;
shovel bayonet and shovel;
hydraulic level;
hammers;
mallet;
bit;
a set of chisels;
files;
caulking tool;
tape measure and carpenter's meter;
buckets;
wheelbarrow;
stairs;
construction goats;
container for concrete or construction mixer.

Now you can proceed directly to the construction.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building from scratch

All work can be conditionally divided into stages that follow each other. Between some of them it is necessary to make a certain time interval.

Foundation construction

First you need to choose its type:

Foundation from natural boulders. Large stones with a cross-shaped notch are specially selected in the corners.
Not buried or shallowly buried strip foundation. Marking is done on the ground, a trench of the required width and depth is dug, a formwork is made, poured with mortar, covered with a film, and dried. Advantages - the comparative ease and cheapness of the structure. The disadvantage is that it cannot be used on unreliable soils with close groundwater, clay and sandy.
On unreliable soils and on a slope, it is recommended to mount a columnar pile foundation from asbestos-cement pipes concreted into the soil with stone filler. Advantages - resistance to subsidence and creep of the soil. The disadvantage is that it is more difficult to insulate the underground.
Metal welded pile-grillage foundation. Advantage - beauty and functionality. Disadvantage - requires special equipment for manufacturing.
Most best foundation For small bath- non-buried columnar. It is made from ready-made concrete blocks measuring 200x200x400 mm. Advantages - ease of construction, low cost, versatility for any soil. There are no disadvantages.

Waterproofing and foundation lathing

All types of foundations, except for boulders, need waterproofing between. Usually they do it with the help of roofing material or bitumen.

Lathing with thin slats over waterproofing is needed to prevent capillary seepage of moisture into the frame. However, the columnar block foundation does not need it.

Drain system device

This stage takes place immediately after the construction of the foundation, before the construction of the log house, simultaneously with the insulation of the underground.

In the old bathhouses, the drain went straight through the plank floor to the ground, so the building was placed on a natural slope. Now such a drain is prohibited, but you can use the very idea in both the steam room and the washing room. It is recommended to organize a drain through the entire floor or collect it at one point where to install a grate-ladder. But the first option will be more environmentally friendly.

Important! In no case should the bath drain be connected to a common septic tank, it will simply choke due to volley discharges. You need to dig a separate drain hole.

The subfloor is pre-insulated with expanded clay, then a concrete screed is made under a slope. This work can only be done in the summer, as the concrete will not be strong if it is poured in the cold. The cement is mixed with the addition of a water-polymer emulsion (at the rate of 200 ml per 10 liters of concrete). Dried and already hardened foundation is coated bituminous mastic then hold for a week. It is advisable to build a primitive water seal that can eliminate unpleasant odors.

Features of the floor in the bath

It cannot be rigidly connected with the log house. The ends of the logs, on which the floor with slots is laid, lead into the slots of the lower crown. It is desirable to make logs from "tar". The floor can be with slots or with a ladder. In the vestibule, it is always solid. For the floor, it is recommended to use a grooved board.

Logging up

It is placed sequentially, each crown is fixed with pins - round dowels (it is advisable to take oak ones). Through the log, through, down, a hole is drilled for fasteners at half the thickness of the previous one. They take it off. They put a caulk. Insert the dowel, piercing the caulk with it. String the top log on the dowel. Repeat in a checkerboard pattern.

Do not forget to take out a piece of log in those places where there should be openings for windows and doors on their upper side.

Caulking is laid between the logs in a stretch, and then the finished log house is caulked with a cord.

Residential buildings are insulated with synthetic waterproofing agents, but this is not suitable for a bath. Jute will replace traditional moss and hemp. It literally grows together with the tree and seals the room perfectly. This caulk is sold in sets (tape and cord).

Do not forget about the so-called technological break. The finished log house is sewn up on top with any auxiliary material up to cardboard, and covered with a film for drying and shrinkage. The process can take from six months to one and a half years. Only after the expiration of this period can construction continue.

Cutting openings for doors and windows

The openings are sawn down from the marks left with the obligatory control of the hydraulic level. Scraps will go to the ceiling and furniture. You can immediately make a pigtail doorway. Since the log house "walks" constantly, the usual door frame will not withstand changing loads. There is a special technology by which only vertical parts are fixed, which levels its deformation. To do this, a hole for the door is marked according to the hydraulic level or plumb line, the tree is removed according to the intended profile. The height of the opening should be 5-7 cm more than the door, so that there is freedom for deformation. It is then recommended to lay this gap with tow, and then close it with a casing. The edges of the logs are hemmed so that the platbands can be fixed.

What should be the ceiling

It is recommended to stay on a false ceiling because of its strength and economy. This design consists of beams connected with a log house, which also serve as rafters. After the construction of the ceiling, it is caulked with jute, covered with roofing material and insulated with mineral wool.

Roof installation

The roof is double pitched. Rafters are mounted from a bar.

All work takes place in several steps:

First, the central racks are placed at the height of the pediment.
Then the ridge and rafters are mounted, light crate.
It has a cover on it. For a bath, it is better to use traditional roofing materials, for example, metal tiles, corrugated board, galvanized iron, slate. Surprisingly, the most durable and stylish coating is shingles. But if earlier it was material for the poor, now everything is completely different.

Exterior and interior decoration

If the log house was correctly raised, it had a bottom time to shrink, then no interior decoration no walls needed.

Doors and windows

These parts can be bought or made independently (from grooved boards with dowels).

Installation must be carried out according to the following plan:

A door frame with a door is inserted into the finished pigtail.
It is adjusted, the vertical is adjusted according to the hydraulic level. Fixed with screws.
The upper slot is laid with tow, tucked around the perimeter of the door, if necessary, and platbands are mounted on both sides of the door.
Handles and locks are installed.

Bath furniture

Bath furniture is for a steam room (shelves) and a washing room with a dressing room (benches, table).

Shelves vary in width. It depends on personal preference, although there are some design traditions that allow you to calculate the minimum size that is suitable for a person of average height and build. It is customary to increase the average size to comfortable.

The minimum distance from the shelves to the ceiling should be at least 110 cm. In such a bath, you will not overheat on the upper tier, while there will be enough space to sit or lie with your legs up. There are people who love to swing a broom very actively. Then it makes sense to leave more space at the top (up to 1.5 m). The lower tier is traditionally located no lower than 30 cm from the floor of the steam room.

It would be advisable to make the shelves not from pine, but from linden, since it has a lower thermal conductivity, and besides, it does not emit resin. The frame can be made of timber, then sheathed with prepared boards.

Even at the construction stage, it is necessary to use modern impregnating compounds that can withstand high temperature and humidity without harming human health. So you can protect the building from fungus and rot. Those that are suitable for ceilings cannot always be used to cover furniture.

There are many such products with water-repellent natural substances such as paraffin, wax, oil by manufacturers of varnishes and paints (Senezh, Empils, Rogneda, Dulux, Tikkurila, Nobel, Belinka, Teknos). They are divided into suitable for exterior walls, internal surfaces, to which a person does not touch the body (ceiling) and furniture.

Pyroprotective and antiseptic impregnation of logs is usually done at the timber processing plant, but it must be done again after construction.

The first application of compositions on furniture is carried out immediately after its manufacture on a dry and clean surface, or even before manufacture (on wooden blanks). The agent must be evenly distributed with a sponge, soft cloth or brush. Due to the thick consistency, the spray gun will not work.

How to build a stove in a sauna

For all sauna stoves there is a single condition, the fulfillment of which is mandatory - lengthening the combustion channel so that the door is in the dressing room (firewood is put into it in that room).

You can put a metal stove, having bought it ready-made, or fold a brick one yourself (it is much better due to its slower heating and long-term heat release). The most difficult thing in this case will be to competently remove the chimney through wooden roof, insulating it with special metal sheets and vermiculite.

Stones must be chosen as carefully as possible. They must have the following qualities:

heat resistance (not destroyed by temperature changes);
heat capacity (for a long time they give off heat);
environmental friendliness (when heated, they do not emit harmful substances);
uniformity and the same coefficient of thermal expansion (foreign inclusions with a different thermal expansion can explode when heated);
round shape (it improves the circulation of hot air).

Stones must be:

up to 13 cm for the first layer on the grate;
up to 9 for the intermediate layer;
up to 6 for the top layer.

If the heater is done correctly, then unforgettable steam moments await you.

Operation features

Only the steam room provides the healthiest and only correct ratio of humidity and heat. But even there there are extreme values. This is confirmed scientifically. The best feeling at a certain combination of humidity and temperature is graphically expressed by a homothermal curve. Below the first of the curves is the optimal combination of temperature up to 90 ° and humidity up to 80%, which is provided by the Russian steam bath.

While in the steam room, the body is covered with hot moist air, especially when exposed to it with a broom, due to which everything warms up. In this case, there is a constant flow of oxygen to the tissues.

After being in the steam room, you need to plunge into the ice font.

Video: building a bath from a log

Steam in a Russian bath trains blood vessels, improves immunity, reduces weight and pleases the soul. And if it is also built with your own hands, then the pleasure increases many times over.

Almost every land owner, sooner or later, thinks about building a bath. After all, a bath is not just a room for washing, but also an important element of summer vacation. The construction of a turnkey bath can be ordered from professionals for a tidy sum, or you can try to build a bath with your own hands.

After reading this article, you will be able to choose a project, find out the sequence of the construction process, get acquainted with the models of boilers and find best option baths for your dacha.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to develop a bath project. To do this, it is not necessary to contact an architect, you can develop a simple project yourself, especially since now there are many computer programs for design.
Think about what size bath will be optimal for your family. What rooms will be located inside the bath. From what materials to make the foundation, walls and roof, do not forget also about the decoration of the bath. An important point in design, is the location of the boiler and the method of its combustion.
Below you can see the popular projects of baths:

- Bath project size - 4x4 meters.

- Bath project - 4x6 meters.

- Bath project - 5x6 meters.

- Bath project - 6x3 meters.

Bath project - 3x3 meters.

After you have decided on the size and materials for the bath, you need to draw up a cost estimate.

Foundation

For the construction of a bath, several types of foundation are used. Depending on the weight of the walls and the characteristics of the soil, the following types of foundations are made:

Slab foundation.
Column foundation for light walls.
Pile foundation.
Concrete strip foundation.

As practice has shown, the most reliable foundation for almost all types of soil is a concrete strip foundation reinforced with reinforcement.

To make a strip reinforced foundation for a bath, you will need:

Cement.
Sand.
Gravel.
Fittings.
Formwork.
Ruberoid.
Wire.
Shovels.
Concrete mixer.
Harness.
Stakes.
Tools (pliers, hammer, tape measure and others).

In the place chosen for the construction of the bath, mark the trench for the future foundation. For marking, use a tourniquet stretched between the pegs. The width of the trenches is made based on the weight of the material for the walls. For a one-story bath made of wood or brick, it is enough to make a trench 30-40 centimeters wide. After installing the markup, do the following:

Based on the markings, dig a trench 50-80 centimeters deep.
Tamp the bottom of the trench and fill it with water to shrink the soil.
Cover the bottom of the trenches with roofing paper for waterproofing.
Fill the trench with gravel to a third of its depth.
Install the formwork along the edges of the trench.
Make a frame reinforcing the foundation, from reinforcement rods interconnected by wire.
Install the reinforcement cage into the formwork.
Make with a concrete mixer cement mortar in proportion: one part cement to one part sand and two parts gravel.
Pour the cement into the formwork, being careful not to allow air pockets.
After the concrete has dried, remove the formwork.

The foundation for the bath is ready!

Walls

For the construction of walls use the following materials:

Wooden bar.
Logs.
Boards.
Brick.
Blocks from various building mixtures (cinder block, aerated concrete, wood concrete, and so on).

Since the construction of a log or brick bath is already quite widely described on the Internet, let's consider the construction option frame bath from a bar 15x15 and 5x10 centimeters and boards with a section of 2x15 centimeters:

1. Make the lower trim, for this, take the bars with a section of 15x15 cm and install them on the foundation, connecting them with special metal plates and corners. There is another way to connect the bars, by cutting spikes, grooves at their ends and then fastening them with screws or nails. When tying, do not forget to put waterproofing under the bars.
2. Install vertical racks from a 5x10 cm beam. The distance between the racks is usually 50-60 centimeters. First of all, determine the position of window and door openings and install the racks framing them.
3. In the process of work, fix the already installed racks with temporary strips so that they do not warp.
4. Make the top harness by attaching it to the ends of the uprights.
5. When making the final fastening of the upper trim, carefully monitor the position of the vertical racks, checking their evenness with a level.
6. Be sure to strengthen everything corner connections diagonal racks, this will help to avoid warping the frame.
7. Make a ceiling sheathing.
8. After making the frame, make the outer cladding of the walls of the bath with a board with a section of 2x15 centimeters. If you do not want cracks between the boards, then make the sheathing - "overlap", laying the bottom edge of the board on the nailed board. By appearance, this method resembles the decoration of walls with siding.

Having sheathed the bath from the outside, proceed to the installation of insulation. Styrofoam sheets or mineral wool installed along the vertical racks of the frame.
On top of the insulation, it is necessary to install a layer of vapor barrier, which is attached to vertical racks using thin rails.
After installing the vapor barrier, make the inner lining of the bath with clapboard or slats.
Insulate the ceiling by laying vapor barrier sheets on the inner lining, then insulation. Sheathe the ceiling from the outside with plywood sheets.

Please note that the manufacture and insulation of the ceiling can also be done after the installation of the roof.

Roof

The roof for the bath is of three types:

Shed.
Gable.
Complex - consisting of four or more slopes.

Usually, the first two options are used for a bath. Let's look at the option gable roof covered with metal tiles:

The manufacture of the roof begins with the installation - Mauerlat. In case of frame walls, the role of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper stroke.

Install the uprights on the bench.
Connect the racks with girders and puffs.
Install the rafter legs by attaching them to the Mauerlat, run and connecting the upper ends to each other. The distance between the rafters should be 50-60 centimeters.
Install sheets of metal.
Sheathe the gables with wooden slats or sheet iron.

For a more visual acquaintance with the roof fastening, the following figure is shown:

All sizes of roof elements are listed:

Keep in mind that the smaller you make the slope of the roof, the more snow load will fall on it in winter. Also, a small slope of the roof can lead to poor drainage and leaks.

floors

The design of the floor depends on the type of room. In the rest room, ordinary wooden floors are made. In the washing and steam rooms, the floors are made of two levels:

The first level is made of concrete, has a slope towards the drain hole.
The second level is a finished floor made of boards with gaps for draining water.

If you want to make a porcelain stoneware floor or tiles, then they simply fit on the first level at a slope to the drain hole.

In order to make a concrete floor and drain in the bath you need:

In the center of the steam room and washroom, install plastic pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters with a bell at the end. Pipes must go through the foundation to the street and connect to the sewerage system.
Lay down a layer of waterproofing material.
Spread a layer of gravel 10-15 centimeters thick over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms.
Make a cement mortar and pour the floor with a slope to the hole installed on the drain socket pipe.
Install a grate on the drain hole to prevent debris from entering the sewer.

At the second stage, wooden floors are made:

Install wooden logs in all rooms of the bath. Make the distance between the lags 30-40 centimeters. As a log, you can use bars with a section of 3x5 cm or 4x6 cm.
Nail boards with a section of 2x15 cm or 5x20 cm onto the logs.
In rooms where water is supposed to be drained, leave gaps of 0.5-1 cm between the boards.

Do not forget, before starting the installation of wooden floors, treat all parts with wood impregnation. When making floors, keep in mind that they should be above, or at the level of the top edge of the foundation.

Boiler

The model of the boiler for the bath will largely depend on your financial capabilities and the fuel that you will use for heating. If you know how to use welding, then you can make a simple boiler yourself, from thick sheet iron. If you prefer more advanced colas on gas or electricity, then they can be purchased from specialized companies.

The boiler in the steam room is installed in such a way that the combustion chamber is loaded with fuel either from the street or from the rest room (dressing room). The boiler itself, in order to fire safety, is located 10-15 centimeters from the nearest walls. Walls to the height of the boiler, covered with sheets of iron. A good solution would be to overlay the boiler with bricks, thereby reducing its cooling time and protecting the walls from fire.

When arranging a chimney for a boiler, pay special attention to the place where the pipe is in contact with the ceiling. The hole for the chimney should be insulated with a refractory material. Also, pay attention to the place where the chimney pipe exits through the roof. Usually, this place is prone to leakage, so it should be carefully sealed. Below are the options for boilers for the bath:

- Homemade boiler from sheets of metal.

- A gas boiler.

- Electric boiler.

Solid fuel boiler.

Bath arrangement

After the bath is built, it is necessary to equip it:

- Bring to the bath all the communications available on the site - electricity, sewerage, water supply.

- Place inside the sink, shower, light sources, furniture for relaxation.

- Decorate the walls of the steam room with curly slats and make stepped shelves.

Buy wooden tubs, buckets, buckets and brooms.

After the arrangement, you can safely invite guests to take a steam bath in your personal bath!

You can also see the instructions for assembling a mini-bath for giving without a foundation in the video:

Variants of beautiful and unusual baths

In addition to traditional materials and design for a bath, there are many alternative solutions. Below we give photos of the most unusual baths:

A mobile bath from a "lining", built on a car trailer.

Sauna in a huge wine barrel.

Bath from plastic bottles.

Bath dugout, built right in the ground.

Bath housed in an iron container.

Forest bath from raw logs.

A beautiful bath from a gun carriage.

Bath from unedged boards.

At the end of the article, I would like to remind you that heating the bath is associated with fire and high temperatures. Therefore, when building a bath from bricks, logs, cinder blocks or boards, pay great attention to fire safety. This warning also applies to the electrical wiring device, since the rooms inside the bath have high air humidity and the risk of a power outage due to condensate is very high.

We hope that reading our article will encourage you to build a bath yourself!

A small do-it-yourself bath is a great option when the area near the house or in the yard of the cottage is limited. In addition, with such a solution, you can significantly save the budget, but as a result, get a full-fledged vacation spot that will not only allow you to relieve stress after a hard day, but improve your health and have a good time with family and friends.

Project examples

IN ideal The bath includes 4 rooms in its design:

dressing room;
restroom;
washing;

You can expand the functionality of some rooms by combining them with each other. At the same time, the comfort of the stay is not lost. The overall size of the building will largely depend on how many people will be inside at the same time.

1.20 m×2.50 m. Very compact solution. In this case, the bath consists of only two rooms: a steam room and a dressing room. The dimensions of the first are 1.20 m × 1.50 m, the second - 1 m × 1.20 m. There is no rest room, and you can change clothes in the dressing room. Washing can be combined with a steam room. This size will be enough for one person.
2.50 m × 2.50 m. By the number of rooms - like the first option. The size of the steam room is 2.50 m × 1.50 m, the dressing room is 1 m × 2.50 m. At the same time, it will be possible to organize additional space for storing firewood. In such conditions, two people can easily fit.
3 m × 3 m. This option can be planned in different ways. If there is a desire for three people to fit in the steam room, then it can be made 3 m × 1.50 m in size, the washing room can be made separate by putting a shower stall there. The size of this room will be 1 m × 1.50 m. There is also a dressing room 2 m × 1.5 m. You can combine a washing room and a steam room, then there remains a space that can be used as a rest room, which will also serve as a dressing room.
4 m × 3 m. In this case, 4 m 2 can be separated for the steam room (for example, 2 m × 2 m). The washing room will occupy 1 m × 1.50 m, 2 m × 3 m remains for the rest room. In such conditions, four people can easily fit. They will be able to stay in the steam room at the same time, as well as enjoy communication in the dressing room.
4 m × 4 m. In such a territory it is already possible to turn around well. The steam room can be left 2 m × 2 m in size. Make a separate dressing room 2 m × 1.50 m in size. In this case, the relaxation room is 4 m × 2 m (one of the sides will be 2.50 m). The washing room can be combined with a rest room, for this an electric boiler and a shower cubicle are installed. They can be placed in one of the corners of the room, which does not take up much space.

These are indicative examples. You can easily vary the size of the rooms within the available limits. You may want to make the steam room smaller, as there is no need for 4 people to be there at the same time. At the same time, it will be possible to expand the space of the rest room.

Note! All measurements are given in ideal values without taking into account the thickness of the partitions. This was done for greater clarity. In the case when the bath is adjacent to the house, then it can be made in the form of one steam room. At the same time, the bathroom will act as a washing room, and the rest of the territory is available for relaxation.

Choosing a material

Can be used to build walls various material. Much will depend on which project you have chosen, as well as the planned amount of money. For example, you can use ordinary brick. How to build a brick bath, you can read. In this case, the following points will be positive:

availability;
ease of delivery;
relative ease of construction;
long service life (with proper care- up to 150 years);
ease of maintenance;
the possibility of combining with the main structure;
when using a new brick, there is no need for cladding;
freedom to choose the form of construction.

The negative aspects include:

the high cost of the material;
the need for good ventilation, tk. brick has poor vapor conductivity;
kindling such a bath takes more time than wooden buildings;
high costs for interior decoration.

Along with brick, foam block is often used. This is a more progressive material; it has properties characteristic only of it:

light weight with large size;
high laying speed;
ease of fitting block shapes;
good thermal insulation;
relatively low price;
excellent sound insulation;
environmental friendliness;
subject to the recommendations - a small consumption of glue.

There is also a fly in the ointment:

uneven pores can be a problem when hanging furniture;
shrinkage may occur within a few months;
poor bending stability.

The most favorite way of manufacturing is rounded logs. There is a lot to be said about its benefits, here are just a few:

high environmental friendliness;
pleasant appearance;
low heat capacity;
no need for interior and exterior decoration;
nice interior atmosphere.

The negative side is:

unprofitable to use in small buildings;
some complexity of construction;
the high cost of the material;
long shrinkage time.

One of the cheapest and fastest options is to build frame structure. This method will require minimal building skills. The advantages are:

no need for a massive foundation;
availability of materials;
relatively low cost compared to other options;
ease of care;
very fast heating of the steam room with good insulation;
ease of laying communications;
seismic resistance;
no shrinkage.

Of the minuses, one can note the need for good sound insulation. A high level of boominess is the transmission of various vibrations, which can cause inconvenience. It is also important to take care of good ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate inside, which will lead to the development of fungus and mold.

Strip foundation

In the case when a really small bath is planned, it makes no sense to sink the foundation to the level of soil freezing. This will only increase the overall cost of the project. With proper manufacturing and waterproofing, you don’t have to worry about the walls being cold. This type of foundation will be relevant for any of the listed building options.

At the stage of laying the foundation, the necessary communications are provided. This may be a water supply and a sewer drain for water from a washing.

Note! If you know that soils in your area are highly mobile, then an unburied foundation is a poor option, as it can easily collapse under the pressure of the layers. In this case, it is better to evaluate the possibility of installing piles.

pile foundation

There are several ways to build a foundation. Piles can be bored and driven. In the first case, a well is drilled, formwork is made, reinforcing rods are lowered, and the entire space is poured with concrete. In the second option, ready-made concrete, wooden or metal posts with a pointed end are immediately clogged. Most suitable options for a small bath will be screw. They consist of a metal base in the form of a pipe and blades, which contribute to the immersion of the supports into the ground. You can buy them or make your own. If you chose the second option, then you need to act like this:

In each of the options described, separate support elements for the stove should also be provided, especially if you plan to use a heater. This is very important, because its weight can be large, which can damage the floor and lag.

Note! Such a foundation will ideal solution for frame structures, log buildings, as well as small foam block baths. If the soil in the area where construction is planned is sufficiently strong and rocky, then something in between a pile and strip foundation can be used - columnar. In this case, individual pits with a size of 50 × 50 cm are dug out every meter to a level below the freezing of the soil. A formwork, a metal crate is installed inside and a solution is poured.

Building brick walls

For a bath, it is better to use red brick, which has undergone heat treatment and has a lower thermal capacity. To calculate the amount required material, you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200beach wall. To do this, the width is multiplied by the length. Then you need to divide this number by the area of \u200b\u200bone brick. The area of the masonry seams can be neglected, because you still need to make a reserve in case of a fight or marriage.

The wall can be built using several methods:

in two bricks with external insulation.
with air gaps, they are about 6 cm;
with a layer of insulation between two rows of bricks.

Work begins with the construction of corners. This is an important process because it is they who will subsequently ensure the correctness of the entire structure. To maintain the vertical level of future walls, two are dug in at the corners. metal profiles 5 × 5 cm and a length equal to the height of future walls. They are leveled and secured with braces. Between them, a fishing line is stretched to the height of one row. After it is laid, the fishing line is rearranged to the height of the next one. The thickness of the seam should be about 20–25 mm. It must be applied at a distance of no more than a meter so that it does not have time to dry. Additionally, the plane is checked using a bubble level. If the second and third type of masonry is chosen, then it is necessary to provide a dressing between the two walls. This is ensured by the transverse laying of two bricks opposite each other at certain intervals. Also, each row should go with an offset of half a brick, so that the overall weave of the entire plane is ensured.

over windows or doorways a jumper must be installed. Usually it is reinforced concrete. You can buy it ready-made or fill it directly on the spot. It should go beyond the openings by at least 25 cm. Supports are installed, mounted on them wooden plank. Two rows of bricks are laid out on edge. Between them are reinforcement bars, which should also go beyond the opening by 25 cm, while it is better to bend them in order to intertwine with the existing masonry. Concrete is poured inside. After complete solidification (usually 10-12 days), the lower supports can be dismantled and the logs removed.

Walls made of foam blocks

The general principle of laying will be the same as in the previous case. You should also start from the corners, which must be accurately and clearly set.

In the same way, guides are made of profiled pipes. But there are some nuances:

In order to achieve the best adhesion, the row-base is laid on a cement mortar. The ratio with sand is better to make 1:3. It is very important to maintain a horizontal plane so that all other rows also lie correctly.
All other rows are fixed with special glue.
The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 5 mm. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve ideal thermal insulation.
Every 3 rows in the seam is placed metal grid, which serves to give additional rigidity.
Foam blocks are placed on the edge.
Lintels over doors and windows are made in the same way as in the case of brickwork.

Log walls

It is this option that pops up in the imagination when it comes to the bath. For its manufacture, you will need to stock up on rounded or profiled logs. It is better to make external walls from this material. Because the structure is small, it is good if the partitions are frame.

After the construction of the walls is completed, the primary caulking is performed. During which the hanging insulation is simply hammered into the joints. Complete shrinkage of the building can last more than 1.5 years.

Frame walls

After the foundation has been erected, an additional foundation is made for such a structure. It is performed according to the example of the grillage, which was mentioned above. For the corner posts, we need exactly the same beam as for the base. In addition, it will be necessary to stock up on an edged board with a length equal to the height of the future walls, a width equal to the width of the grillage and a thickness of 5–10 cm.

Roof erection

For small buildings, the ideal solution would be shed roof. It is necessary to plan its production at the design stage. It is very important to be able to raise one wall higher than the other. When this is done, then in the case of a wall of brick and foam block, waterproofing from bikrost or roofing material is laid on the upper end. Additional beams are mounted on it, which will serve as a Mauerlat. They are attached to the base with anchor bolts or walled studs. Beams are laid on top, on which the crate will be stuffed. They can be fixed to the Mauerlat using metal corners.

In another version, the walls are made the same. Ceiling beams are laid on the Mauerlat. On one side, vertical boards are installed that will form a pediment, rafter legs are lowered from them to another wall. At the junction with the Mauerlat, they are cut under required angle. Fastened with metal corners. To make it easier to support the roof in one plane, two extreme elements are first installed. A string is stretched between them, which will serve as a level.

The ceiling must be insulated. A vapor barrier is attached to the ceiling beams from above. In this role, dense foil can act. Insulation in the form of mineral wool is placed in the space between the beams. Additionally, it is covered with plastic wrap. From the inside, filing is done using a wooden lining or a polished edged board. Read more about the insulation of the ceiling in the bath.

Note! For a house from a bar when fastening rafter legs it is better to use floating corners for Mauerlat. This is necessary so that during shrinkage the roof does not skew.

finish line

An integral part of each bath is a stove. You can make your own from sheet material or metal pipe large diameter. In another version, it is laid out of brick, but in this case it can take up a large space. For small space it is better to use electrical options, which are purchased ready-made.

Shelves are mounted inside the steam room. For him, it is better not to use coniferous wood, because. when heated, it may release resin, which will cause burns. Good material for her there will be aspen, larch, linden or oak. With a small space, a width of 40 cm will suffice, it is more convenient when there is a footrest. The fixing material must be recessed flush so as not to burn the skin (it must also be made of stainless material). It is better if the whole structure is assembled on dowels.

For wiring, a double-braided cable must be used. It is better if it is non-flammable (usually there is a prefix “ng” in the marking). Be sure to lay the conductor in the corrugation. Switches are not mounted in the steam room itself. Luminaires are used waterproof with index IP68.

Take care of good ventilation. To do this, you can install an adjustable supply valve, as well as anemostats with an outlet to the gable through the roof. This will be enough for all the moisture to be removed after taking a steam bath.

As you can see, there are no restrictions on what you can build a small bath from. Choose the option that best suits you.

Scheme

Frame-panel bath with a porch

Washing in a country bath is a pleasure available to everyone. Its construction does not require large financial investments. In the minimum layout, such a structure is being built in a few days.

In this article we will consider the topic of how to build the simplest bath in the country quickly and inexpensively.

Let's start by studying ready-made options, we will discuss the designs of walls, floors, stoves and sewers that are popular among masters.

Design features

The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:

Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
Reliable isolation of structures from water and steam.
Compact fast heating oven.
Efficient sewerage and ventilation.

Examples of country baths

In photo No. 1 we see the simplest bath, reminiscent of a barrel of Diogenes. You can only steam in it. It will not be possible to wash here, because there is no sewerage in the building. However, if desired, it is easy to do. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bath and bring the drain pipe into the septic tank.

Photo No. 1 Build such a “barrel bath” in the country and take a steam bath

An important advantage of this design is its low weight, which allows it to be placed on a wooden terrace.

The device of the simplest bath from the container category is shown in photo No. 2.

Photo No. 2 Container option country bath

It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with a summer shower or supplement the room with sewage, and the stove with a tank for heating water.

Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let's pay attention to cellular polycarbonate. From it you can quickly and easily assemble the original design. In order for it to keep heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden bars. Between them, a mineral wool insulation, 10 cm thick, is laid.

The ends of the structure can be made of boards by stuffing them onto a wooden insulated frame. Put such a bath anywhere: in the country, on a polar ice floe or on the top of Everest, and you will always be comfortable in her steam room (photo No. 5).

Photo No. 5 A simple barrel-shaped bath

A small Russian bathhouse made from timber scraps can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photo No. 6.

Photo No. 6 Oak posts - an excellent support for a small wooden bath

Larger structures need their own foundation. There are three options here:

Concrete tape.
Brick pillars.
Piles from asbestos-cement pipes.

Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and the design of the walls. Pile and column foundations are used for installation wooden frame, as well as for baths made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).

Photo No. 7 Sauna from SIP panels on screw piles

Photo No. 8 Brick columns - the best option for timber, log and frame structures

The "tape" of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (from gas silicate blocks, logs and frame).

A cheap, reliable and simple version of the bath is obtained by technology. For such a structure, you will need a little: a firewood truck, a cart of straw and a clay dump truck (photo No. 10).

The best shape of a wood-burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce the masonry corners, looks aesthetically pleasing and original.

Borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build just such a simple and warm bathhouse (photo No. 11).

Photo No. 11 Wicker frame coated with clay - "know-how" of an inexpensive bath design

Recommendations for the choice of finishes, insulation, sewerage, floor, roof and stove

For exterior finish frame baths, you can recommend the following materials:

Wooden blockhouse.
Metal tile or profiled sheet.
plastic siding.
Cement particle board (DSP).
OSB board.
Flat slate.

Photo No. 12 A simple, but at the same time very nice version of the exterior of the bath with the help of unedged boards

As a heater, it is best to use ecowool. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If there is no ecowool in your area, then you can buy a regular mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid plate. It is easily and simply placed in the gaps between the racks of the frame.

To protect the mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil polyethylene. After that, a frame of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).

Photo No. 13 Steam and heat insulation of the walls of a country bath built from any material

We do not recommend installing OSB board indoors. This material releases toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.

Variants of steam and heat insulation of the walls of the frame structure, as well as a bath built from blocks or logs, are shown in Figure No. 1.

Building a simple do-it-yourself bath includes a sewer. It can be made from standard plastic pipes, derived in cesspool or drainage well.

The water intake funnel is placed in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, it is necessary to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. Wood flooring is a great option, but in a bath it rots quickly and needs to be replaced. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and put them on concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.

The design of the bath ceiling is standard. First, a vapor barrier film is “shooted” to the rafters and counter-rails (3x4 cm) are stuffed. They fix the lining of the lining. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with a roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).

Fig No. 2 Design of the ceiling of a country bath

A counter-lattice is stuffed onto the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on the installation of the ceiling and roof is being completed by installing the main crate and laying roofing material(slate or metal tiles).

The main "detail" of any country bath is a stove. She must provide fast warm-up air and maintain a high temperature. The metal stove heats up the fastest.

To accumulate heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a compartment for stones. There are a lot of options for stoves for simple baths, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the easiest way to make a heat generator is from a steel pipe of large diameter, an old gas cylinder or a barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material is a steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo No. 16).

Photo No. 15-16 A simple pipe stove and a ferrous metal stove

Knowing the simplest welding techniques, you can assemble such a structure without outside help.

Bath in Russia occurred in ancient times, it was considered a ritual of purification. Since then, she has always been in good standing with the people, because she has a very good charge of positive energy, affects the feeling of lightness both physically and mentally.

The origin and benefits of the bath

Due to the high temperature and humidity, it helps the body cleanse all the pores without losing its own body heat, but rather gaining it. And just like that, steaming your bones is always nice.

Even in many well-known cases, people made different decisions and agreements, namely in baths or saunas. Since procedures such as baths also contribute to better, brighter thinking.

In Europe in the middle of the century there was an epidemic of cholera, which led to a huge number of deaths. And in Russia, it was thanks to such a useful bath custom that such a terrible disease was avoided. The bath has always been used by both high-status people and commoners.

Abroad for a long time they denied the connection between diseases and personal hygiene, they even tried to use different perfumes to get rid of the stink of their own bodies, and only then they accepted the fact of the connection between cholera and cleanliness of the body.

This is a very good and useful tradition to bathe with brooms with high temperature. That is precisely why baths in custom-made construction are always so expensive.

Construction of a log cabin

First you need to choose a suitable place and conditions for the construction of a bath, it is advisable to choose a firmer soil. It should be borne in mind that the bath should not be located near buildings and communications in order to avoid washing the foundation, raising their contents with drain water from the bath and clogging drinking water.

If it is not possible to choose a site with more suitable soil, then there are different types of a suitable foundation.

For a solid foundation, an ordinary strip foundation is suitable, but if the soil is not very dense, then you can make a pile foundation from asbestos-cement pipes or a pile foundation, but such two foundations are not as cheap as an unburied column foundation.

Then a drain is organized and a log house is built. For construction, there are many different materials, you can list for a long time, but they do not have the qualities that the original material has, namely wood.

Of course, a log house made of linden would be the most the best option, but it is practically no longer harvested, and it is almost impossible to find it. Oak is not very suitable for a bath, because because of it an almost unbearable, heavy steam is created in the bath, and the cost of this tree is very high.

It is most practical to build from conifers, such as pine or spruce. They will create an acceptable temperature and a minimum of costs and enough practicality.

Of course, if there are financial opportunities, then larch can also be purchased, it has the same temperature qualities, only with it the building will last much longer.

Then the roof is built. The rafters are made from timber. To begin with, the central racks are installed at the estimated roof height. Then a ridge and rafters are made, a crate is made. A coating is laid on the crate.

Interior decoration of the bath

The floors are assembled depending on the room, it will be a washing room, a steam room or a dressing room. The floor cannot be rigidly connected with the log house, the logs are inserted into the prepared slots, and it is desirable to make them from tar.

In the washing room, the floors are assembled with slots without sealing them with each other; For floors in the bath, it is desirable to use a tongue and groove board.

Ceilings are also different types, but it is best to make a false ceiling, it is good for its strength and economy.

In the dressing room, it is necessary to install benches for rest and, if necessary, a table for convenience. Also in the room you will need hangers and various hooks for clothes and towels.

Shelves are installed in the steam room, sunbeds in two tiers. The upper tier is installed no higher than 110 centimeters from the ceiling, thus providing a more suitable temperature for a person, which will prevent him from overheating.

Doors and windows are best made without metal objects such as nails, self-tapping screws, screws. And in return, they use wooden dowels, it is better to use either wooden or plastic handles for doors and windows. Metal products are very overheated in the bath room, which can lead to thermal burns.

The sauna stove is one of the most important structures in this room, which can be called the “heart of the sauna”.