Do-it-yourself brick ovens drawings. Do-it-yourself laying of stoves schemes. Types of furnace work

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For a long time, stoves for heating a house have been traditional heating structures and not only boilers, but also various other heaters cannot be compared with them in many respects. They provide "live" heat, in addition, they are distinguished by practicality and unpretentiousness in the use of solid fuel. In addition, a do-it-yourself stove built will last for many years.

Stoves for heating a private house are considered an ideal choice for suburban real estate. A well-designed heating structure is able to provide residents with a comfortable stay in each of the premises of the building. See also: "".

Do-it-yourself stove: how to do it right

At a time when stoves were the main method of heating in houses, master stove-makers were engaged in their construction and repair. Now, with certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to fold the stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience in construction works, arrangement of such heating structure it is advisable to entrust professionals. It should not be forgotten that the furnace belongs to objects of increased danger.

Before proceeding with the independent construction of brick heating units, it is necessary to understand their main types and features of operation:

• heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their device is simple (in more detail: "");
• heating and cooking stoves - today they are considered the most popular and in demand. In addition to heating rooms, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern coolants (read: "");
• for cooking, a special stove is built into the heating structure, and if desired, even an oven;
• fireplace stoves - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable living conditions and ensuring efficient heating of rooms (read: ""). It takes a little time to fire them up. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance able to decorate any room, as in a small country house, and in a luxurious country villa (read also: "").

Do-it-yourself stoves for the home are distinguished by shape. For country houses most often choose rectangular, square or round designs and such a variety of models allows you to focus on the best option, based on the purpose and interior of a particular room.

In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of the fuel used, the stove must meet certain requirements against fire safety. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. See also: "".

Location of heating stoves

With the independent arrangement of furnace heating, it is necessary to provide the most optimal location for the installation of the heating unit. If, for example, the structure is placed in the middle of the room, then its heat transfer will be the maximum possible, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly giving off heat to the air.

In the event that the stove is placed near the wall, the convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will actively move around the house. As a result, with such an arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel cold, “stretching” along their legs.

Before laying the furnace device, it is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you do not have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, spreading dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems if you install the stove in the kitchen or in a sparsely visited room.

Types of base for heating structures

The drawings of furnaces for heating provide for the arrangement of a concrete floor or the presence of their own foundation. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed to install the body of the structure and the walls of the leaning chimney pipe, as shown.

Main components:

1. fireman. When a stove is created in a house with your own hands, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It must hold the maximum volume of firewood or other fuel to ensure the greatest performance of the structure. The size of the firebox can be different, since this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, and productivity. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
2. Ash pan. This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to the fuel. The height of the ash pan is three bricks.
3. Chimney. One of the main elements that are available in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil, through which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When a stove is created for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend providing for a large number of turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, resulting in a decrease in the efficiency of space heating.

Solution preparation

The stove can serve without fail for a long time, if the mortar is properly prepared for masonry. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be tough, strong and durable at the same time. Preparing a clay-sand solution is simple: it will require clay, which is poured with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred until the consistency of "clay milk" and only then added required amount sand (read also: "").

Do-it-yourself stove will be durable and robust design, will last more than a dozen years, if the solution is done correctly. In the event that the building materials turn out to be of poor quality, and the bricklaying was carried out without observing the technologies, the heating unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.

Features of the furnace masonry process

Before you make a stove with your own hands, you should first make a foundation for it. Usually, bricklaying begins a month after the creation of the foundation. It is necessary to withstand a certain time in order for the furnace to turn out to be efficient and of high quality, and the heating structure to last for a long time, without major repairs and alterations, while maintaining functionality and high performance.

The work on laying a brick oven is carried out in several stages:

1. First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first cap with a lid. Usually, a clay-sand mixture is used for masonry, which has high viscosity and strength.
2. Doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
3. A grate is installed above the ash pan. Then they proceed to the installation of the firebox, which is lined with fireclay bricks from the inside, placing it on the edge. In the manufacture of the solution, sand and fireclay clay are used. The furnace door is fixed with wire and a steel plate having a thickness of 2.5 mm. See also: "".
4. On the 12th row brickwork it is necessary to block the combustion chamber and after that, using the level, mount a cast-iron stove with burners. In the left part of the structure, the laying of the first cap and the channel intended for the summer course is carried out.
5. After the installation of the plate is completed, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid out. On the left side, the construction of the lower cap continues.
6. In the cooking chamber in the inner row, a summer stroke valve is installed, which is necessary for kindling furnaces.
7. In the 20th row, the first of the caps and the cooking chamber are blocked. In solid brickwork, it is necessary to leave holes for the vent of the cooking compartment, the summer run and the lifting channel. To do this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
8. At the cooking chamber, the portal should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. A good solution would be to supply the doors with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. With their presence, it becomes possible to control the combustion process and at the same time observe how the flames look. See also: "".
9. After overlapping the cooking chamber and the lower hood, with the help of two brick rows, they begin to lay out the upper hood. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places to help remove soot.
10. The walls of the cap are erected almost to the top of the wall opening. At the top, the oven is covered with two rows of bricks. For the purpose of additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging jumper must be filled with mineral wool.
11. If a stove is made with your own hands, a decorative belt is placed along its upper perimeter and the installation of a pipe that removes flue gases begins. The ideal solution a brick chimney is considered, because over time, metal and asbestos pipes often burn out. See also: "".

The original do-it-yourself stove is shown in the video:

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove can create, even made by your own hands. Often it is installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, trying to get a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models brick ovens and share the secrets of the kiln craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick oven is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish interior element.

Probably, there is no such person who would not like a living hearth with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But the good old brick oven will be able to please not only with this, but also with the ability to create the most favorable atmosphere for health. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, a brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when it cools. The stove, as it were, "breathes", due to which the optimum humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes already at a temperature of 18–19 ° C, while when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 ° C. In addition, being made of clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that during the operation of the heater, you can not worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, all of them are similar in terms of arrangement of the furnace and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary furnace of this type has:

• foundation, which serves as the base of the heater and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a furnace that simultaneously acts as a firebox and a combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for the lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which facilitates the cleaning of the furnace;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and emits exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Construction of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood-burning heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional place of rest. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, barbecue or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to a visual and image component.

The advantages of brick ovens include:

• rapid heating of the surface;
• the possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heater is eliminated;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• ample opportunities in terms of interior decoration.

The units under consideration also have disadvantages. The most significant of these is the potential danger of poisoning. carbon monoxide, which appears in case of improper operation. Another - large dimensions and weight. That, perhaps, is all. As you can see, equipment of this type has solid advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, however, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick ovens can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combined ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that you can fold yourself. In order not to consider the whole variety of stationary units, let's focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch stoves. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the "Dutch" rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly because of the low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic "Dutch" is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel layout, which allows you to increase the efficiency up to 50%. Just like the "Dutch", the "Swedes" take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of this type of heat generators.

   

   The Swedish stove will please its owner with high efficiency and functionality.

3. have a unique layout, due to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the features of operation. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the oven. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   The Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but it will require a lot of space for installation.

4. Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that contributes to the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A feature of the "blacksmiths" is an extremely clean "exhaust" and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on caring for the heater. As for the minuses, they include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the latter disadvantage is compensated by the fact that much less brick is required for the construction of a “cap” than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and oven

Step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov stove with orders can be found in our next article:.

Having considered everything possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heater that can meet all the requirements for it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first is not difficult, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you more about how to choose a stove in accordance with the type of building.

1. House designed for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main the best option than "Swede" or "cap" can not be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily supplemented with other elements - hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or stove bench. If the functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a “Dutch woman” that heats several adjacent rooms is a good option.
2. Country house "weekend" or cottage. Since these buildings involve irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heater equipped with a hob. The ideal option are fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since they can be used to heat the room in the shortest possible time. Such an advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the air temperature in the room drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. oven in country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heater serves to create a special atmosphere. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or a unit with a firebox, a fireplace and a stove bench.
4. Bath heater. For this case, the simplest stove-heater is suitable, in which a container is built in to obtain hot water. If the bath is attached to the house, then instead of the tank, you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Furnaces for open areas. Most often, such heaters are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

The barbecue oven will decorate the site and fill the resting place with functionality

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heater to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of the main parameters

Before choosing a working project of a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat transfer of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power taken from one square meter unit surface (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take a value of 0.5 kW / sq. m, and if necessary, intensive heating, which occurs during severe cooling - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of the furnace, only those of its surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in the "Dutch" sections of the walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the flue, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, already these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick ovens

Sauna stove
Fireplace stove Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel bookmark. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity based on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2-3 times greater than the obtained value, which will allow the furnace to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the furnace part, it must be taken into account that the maximum bookmark should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the furnace and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the furnace. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various quadratures.

Table of calculations of the main elements of a brick oven

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove will be fired with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood-burning stoves do not require much draft, so a rectangle is the best shape for the smoke channel. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits flue, while all values ​​\u200b\u200bare adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since precision engineering requires a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. Nevertheless, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use the average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 - 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 - 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

The recommended sizes are the minimum. And yet, there is no need to excessively increase the cross section of the smoke channel, since cold air will fall into the furnace through a too wide chimney. Backflow, or “whistling” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only to degrade performance, but also to more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material needed, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be built up with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often, such events are carried out with the changed aerodynamics of the area. For example, after growing trees or erecting taller buildings in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• definition optimal location for the installation of a heating device;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• production of oven bricks (if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.

Necessary materials and tools

Stovemaker's tools

For laying a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Panicle for mopping laid rows.
3. Corner, plumb and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scribbler.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Stitching.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Bulgarian (angle grinder) with a circle on the stone.

Despite the fact that brick ovens differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains almost unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, refractory and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Building mixture for laying furnaces. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. A set of furnace castings - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for fixing cast iron.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and corners for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant plates for protective thermal insulation.

Chamotte brick SHB No. 22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight, which requires a major foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for the construction of the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Rubble.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for the construction of formwork.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for these works.

Features of choosing a place for installing a heater

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available area in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is located in the center of the house, orienting the firebox and hob to the kitchen, and the other faces to the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits right choice places.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms country house

When installing a heater, one should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum allowable distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances, which are determined by the current SNiP:

• from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof must remain at least 130 mm free space. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the furnace leave a gap of at least 100 mm;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum clearance is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m must be left from the ceiling to the ceiling of the furnace. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Foundation construction

It is best if the base of the brick oven is formed simultaneously with the common house foundation. At the same time, both structures are performed separately, otherwise the subsidence of the walls of the building will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, and even damage to the heater. If the stove will be built in a finished house, then the first thing they pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the elements of the roof covering, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they start marking and building the foundation.

Given the weight of the stove, the foundation must be solid.

If wooden floors are equipped in the house, then they are cut out at the installation site of the furnace, departing from the outer contour of 10–15 cm. After that, they dig a foundation pit, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For middle lane it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After that, its bottom is covered with a 15-cm layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured, which is also carefully rammed. After that, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the crate boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement milk through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with a plastic film. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which they use both metal rods hammered into the bottom of the pit and brick fragments.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

Mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the foundation surface is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the base of the furnace should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours have passed, necessary for the preliminary setting of the solution, the structure is covered with a film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying the brick, the foundation must be waterproofed with a roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Solution preparation

Now, when you can find ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves in the distribution network, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All that is required for this is to mix the components with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. Nevertheless, you can make a masonry mortar on your own - this will additionally save. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the last component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After that, balls with a diameter of 5-6 cm are rolled out of the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition the one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third is considered.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower the spatula into the prepared mixture. Adhesion of the solution less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is required to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates the fat content of the mixture, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

Clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If it is required to increase its fat content, then the grinding method is used, which consists in settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly fold a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heater, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything for the start of construction is only half the battle. In order to properly fold the oven, it is necessary to find the layout of the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared some of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Web or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Schemes for ordering furnaces in the photo

Orders of the Swedish oven Orders of the "Dutch" Orders of the Russian oven
Orders of the heating and cooking furnace
Orders of the stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace

Today we propose to fold a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite the apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove-makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Stove orders with a hob and niches for drying

On the presented ordering scheme, you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish stove. We recommend first laying out the structure dry, without the use of mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Further work is done in this order:

1. To the floor level, the bricks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar solid. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry in terms of level and plumb. From the careful execution of the work depends on how smooth and stable the oven will be.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form a blowing chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in masonry joints. To prevent displacement and overturning of the door, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are brought out to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not attached in any other way than by very precise laying.

5. In the fifth row, a grate is installed. Correctly laying the cast iron will help the recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row. Here and further combustion chamber laid out exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the furnace, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden lath.

   

   Furnace door installation

7. Starting from the seventh row, they begin to equip the gas ducts of the furnace. The vertical walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber with a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting laying the ninth row, in bricks that will overlap furnace door, choose a quarter. Thanks to this, the design will look even and aesthetically pleasing. Here, the cast-iron part is finally fixed, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   For an exact fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the outer walls with basalt cardboard or other refractory material.

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before overlapping the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as a support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, they equip a horizontal channel and a door for cleaning soot and soot, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The masonry of the 22nd row covers the door.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal gas duct is covered. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the oven niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical gas ducts. To do this, first mount their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row, fluff is constructed.

In the place where chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this use as mineral heaters, and expanded clay. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

Here's a beauty you can fold with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Earlier, we considered how oven doors are mounted and fixed. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Mounting Features oven

If the design of the furnace provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes the largest possible surface area. Most often, these conditions correspond to the section of the transition from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Preliminarily, metal corners are laid on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the places of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed with basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

The hot water boiler or liquid heat exchanger is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place can be located at the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the gas flue or under the hood of non-revolving units. If it is planned to use the hob and the water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transverse metal pipes, which are welded into side tanks made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5-15 mm is left between the water-heating boiler and the furnace walls. Of course, it is necessary to foresee how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For channel and chamber furnaces, this can be done through the opening of the firebox, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operation and cleaning of the furnace

It is impossible to immediately test the furnace at maximum modes; it is necessary to wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heater in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one to two weeks. If it becomes necessary to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5-7 days 2-3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensate on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after that, the stove is not heated "to the fullest." Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with firewood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is freed from ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For this purpose, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After that, the soot is raked out of the gas ducts with a metal scoop and a poker.

Choosing the right fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood hardwood is considered - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove-makers recommend that every tenth firebox be carried out with aspen logs, arguing that this helps to remove soot from the channels and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “useful” tips), naphthalene, etc. A good effect from this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and your own health can cause significant damage.

It often causes difficulties to kindle the stove after a long cooling, for example, in a cottage or in a country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming hard-to-remove gas plugs. A proven method will help resume cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, lay it closer to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the heater's performance.

You will also need material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick ovens:.

Video: Compact brick oven of the original design

A brick oven will be able to create a particularly warm atmosphere in the room, it will become a highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Fold the unit according to the forces not only experienced craftsmen, but also to green newcomers. Of course, one must be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heater will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe operation for many years of operation.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, as I try to do everything with my own hands.

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A typical case when a simple stove is needed is a cottage that provides additional income to the family budget. In the spring it is still cold, but work is already needed to leave. It is still cold in autumn, but seasonal work still needs to be completed. Even if you travel without spending the night, you need to cook food and warm up a little. Dilute? It will take a lot of fairly high-quality fuel. A fire needs constant supervision and in general it is far from always possible to breed it according to fire safety requirements. On a windy day, a fire is of little use at all - the flame blows away. The simplest stove from improvised materials will help out - you can achieve thermal efficiency is more than 40%, while at the fire it is a few percent; at best 10-15%.

The second case when a simple oven is needed is temporary housing. For example, a utility block or a change house, for example, at a construction site capital house. Buy or make your own steel furnace? Expensive, difficult, time consuming. Yes, and steel furnaces are heated harshly, they do not keep the heat for long. A simple brick stove will come in handy here, which can be installed in a day or two, which does not need to dry for a long time before starting, and whose weight allows you to put it on an ordinary plank floor without a foundation. Furnaces for such and similar cases are discussed in this article.

Note: a simple stove is heated in a black way or its chimney from tin pipes is led out through the window, because. according to all the rules, immediately removes the furnace from the category of simple ones.

What does simple mean?

• A person constructing such a furnace does not have to be deeply versed in the furnace business. Ideally, he does not need to understand anything about it at all;
• The furnace must operate on low-quality waste fuel with a thermal efficiency (this is an analogue of the efficiency of thermal engines) of at least 35-40%;
• A brick oven should not require long-term drying after construction and “accelerating” furnaces to bring it to its rated thermal power;
• It should also consist of no more than 115-120 bricks, so that everything necessary materials could be brought at one time in the trunk passenger car or on a trailer to it;
• Furnace accessories (doors, hobs, burners) should be the most common (so that you can use used ones) and / or cheap;
• The laying of a brick oven should not contain complex joints, sawn (cut by a grinder) bricks, transitions from red brick to fireclay and steel mortgages.

Easier than what is impossible

The simplest stove for mostly outdoor use can be made in just a matter of minutes from improvised materials. However, the stove will turn out to be quite effective.

The simplest cooking stove from a leaky bucket (see the figure below) more than once rescued the author in a variety of circumstances, incl. coped with heating in a black change house without a ceiling under gable roof- there was a portage window under the ridge. The baking sheet serves as a catcher for falling coals; if the stove is used indoors, a fire-resistant lining must be placed under it, for example, a few more bricks. There is no need to completely tear the bottom out of the bucket - just turn it around so that the hole is approx. 6 cm in diameter (width somewhere in the palm of your hand).

Good thermal efficiency This stove is determined by the fact that it partially uses the surface combustion of wood fuel. As you know, it is during surface combustion that wood releases the maximum possible amount of heat. In addition, dry high-quality fuel (chips, shavings) is needed only for kindling, and its main load can be damp. Also, not completely dry branches and chips can be placed later, they dry quickly in the stove.

This stove works quite interestingly. Without cooking utensils on the “burner”, smoke comes out of the upper hole at first. As the bucket warms up (about 10 minutes), it is replaced by a not strong flow of not very hot gases. If the stove will be used repeatedly, its start-up time can be reduced by coating a bucket with clay with dry grass (you can use adobe if you already have it mixed). The first time after coating, the furnace accelerates for a long time, up to an hour, until the “phytoconcrete” dries out, but then it enters the operating mode in less than 5 minutes.

But if you put a frying pan, a pot or a pan on the “burner”, the course of the furnace changes dramatically. The burning of the fuel intensifies and after 1-2 minutes, flames appear from under the vessel. It seems, cookware keeps not completely burnt flue gases from rapid dispersion, and the influx of fresh air under the burner initiates their burning out. As a result, the stove at +5 outside warmed up the room with a volume of approx. 10 cu. m to a comfortable temperature in half an hour. Her the disadvantage is that it does not keep heat and continuous supervision is needed, like a fire.

Note: in essence, this stove is a modification of a fire in a trench. The thermal efficiency already characteristic of furnaces is achieved by the absence of heat losses from burning fuel into the ground.

The simplest outdoor stove for a summer residence can also be folded dry for minutes from bricks, without mortar. Any bricks are suitable, incl. silicate, but gas blocks cannot be used - they literally crumble before our eyes. Surface combustion and afterburning of exhaust gases in this one take place less than in the previous one, but due to better thermal insulation from the sides and bottom, the stove turns out to be less voracious. It will take only 9 or 14 bricks for it, depending on whether the furnace will be single-tier or 2-tier. How the simplest brick oven without mortar is arranged is shown in the following. rice. All bricks are ordinary red workers, and those standing upright are highlighted in color just for clarity. The advantage of this stove over the bucket stove is that you can put two dishes on the “burner”, the efficiency of the stove only increases from this. Disadvantage - if both vessels are quite voluminous and filled cold water, until the water is heated to approx. 70-75 degrees, the stove burns and smokes unimportantly.

Note: according to a similar thermal scheme, it is also possible to build a brick oven without surface combustion, with a grate and a blower in 5-10 minutes. Its thermal efficiency will decrease slightly, but the heat transfer will increase (hourly thermal power), i.e. the stove will heat not so long, but stronger. See the video below for more details:

Video: a simple do-it-yourself brick oven

Simple but long lasting

The furnaces described are temporary in the full sense of the word - after the need has passed, they are dismantled without a trace as simply as they were made. However, in a utility dacha or in a household block of private households, a brick oven with masonry mortar may be needed, comparable in thermal efficiency to a house stove (60-75%), but suitable for building directly on the floor without a foundation. The first thing you need for this is an oven masonry mortar. A ready-made dry mortar for laying stoves or stove glue is, of course, technologically simple, but by no means at a price, so you can study the material about.

The next point to consider is the weight load from the oven to the floor. An ordinary plank floor can withstand 250 kgf / sq. m, but it is unrealistic to build a “real” such a light brick oven. Nevertheless, it is still possible to put a brick oven without a foundation on the floor in an easy way. frame structure provided that the stove will be only and only on the ground floor, see below.

In terms of weight, in this case, the well-known summer stove of 200 bricks is more or less suitable (see the figure below). It weighs (without fuel and utensils) approx. 890 kg, and its bearing area is 0.736 sq. m, i.e. the weight load from it is 1209 kgf. However, you cannot bring the materials for this stove in one trip of a passenger car, the design is complicated for beginners, and the oven (3 in the figure below) and the hot water tank (4) are unnecessary for a simple stove (other designations: 1 - furnace door; 2 - blower door; 5 - cleaning door).

A simple brick oven, the drawings and ordering of which are given on the next. Fig., weighs 540 kg. The reduction in the number of bricks to 118 was achieved by abandoning the oven with a water heater, as well as another, less convenient, cleaning arrangement. Base area 0.468 sq. m; weight load 1154 kgf. Although the pressure from this furnace on the floor has not decreased much, all the materials for it can be brought in a single trip by a passenger car, and the bricks can be made with a spike (butt) or a metalwork hammer and chisel. Thermal efficiency and heat dissipation remained about the same, approx. 60% and 700 kcal/hour.

Note: a thermal efficiency of 60% is not such a bad figure. For example, the efficiency of household burners gas stoves budget and medium price segments is 60-65%. That's what it would not hurt to think about before offering / demanding an increase in gas prices. Unfortunately, the world economy is increasingly leaning from commodity to resource, and economists are less and less thinking about technical possibilities and in the long term.

Single-burner oven, the order of which is shown in fig. right, weighs approx. 400 kg, and its construction requires 87 bricks. Support area - 0.326 sq. m. The pressure on the floor from this stove is approx. of the same, still acceptable value - 1225 kgf, but by transporting materials for it, you can take another passenger, a certain amount of agricultural equipment or other payload into the car.

How to distribute the load

A reader familiar with construction may say: ask (option: “Yes you ...”), 1.2 ton-force per square plank floor - how is that? See above: "provided that the stove will be only and only on the first floor." And if the floor is arranged correctly.

Recall: the logs of the wooden floor should rest on the supporting pillars. It is recommended to keep the pitch of the supporting pillars within 0.9-1.7 m, but not more than this value. The lags themselves are timber from 150x75, and the thickness of the floor boards should be from 30 mm (it is better to set 40 mm with a simple tongue and groove). In this case, a local load of 1300 and even 1400 kgf can be placed on the floor, even if it is simple without insulation, i.e. no subfloor.

How exactly you need to put a simple brick oven on the floor without a foundation is shown in fig. below. The essence, it will be assumed, is clear: furnaces, oblong in plan, are placed between the supporting pillars so that the floor lag falls on the longitudinal axis of the furnace. The stoves are rather square in plan and generally compact, placing them on a pillar with their geometric center.

The fire protection blind area in all cases is arranged in the same way: sheet asbestos with a thickness of 8 mm, and on it a sheet of roofing steel with a thickness of 2 mm. Clay-impregnated felt, as in fig. with the device of the furnace-rude, this is the day before yesterday: expensive, hard, less reliable.

Unconventional approach

In the USA and Southern Canada, the so-called. , in fact, has nothing to do with jet thrust. We don't have much respect for her. Perhaps because, firstly, it is not easy to understand how a rocket oven works with simple common sense. Secondly, because the rocket stove is fired with small-sized fuel or a torch, the preparation of which is laborious, and the very process of its firing is unusual. However, in countries where firewood “from the forest, of course” can get by with a serious prison term, the latter circumstance fades into the background, and in a country house or construction site littered with lumber waste, it can come to the fore. Moreover, a simple rocket oven boils, fries, boils no worse than those described, but it removes the problems of weight loads and transportation of materials: to build a rocket cooking oven, it is enough ... 20 bricks, see for example. video clip.

Brick stoves for the home are often the only way to equip the heating of the house, in the country or in the cottage. In brick heating stoves, the maximum efficiency reaches 85%: this is a consequence of the fact that their design does not include “heat consumers”, which take a lot of heat energy.

• Brick ovens for the home

brick heating furnaces quite simple to manufacture and operate. The reason for these qualities is a narrow scope - for space heating (they are not intended for cooking, etc.).

Brick ovens for the home are also sometimes called "Dutch".

Brick ovens for the home

In houses and cottages, "Dutch women" are most often used, in which the thickness of the walls is equal to half a brick. If you heat such stoves from one to two times during the day, you can easily provide comfortable temperature conditions in a medium sized room.

Taking into account the dimensions of heating furnaces, they use two main methods of smoke circulation:

• in the "Dutch" of small size, where the firebox and the stove itself have common walls, the location smoke channels bell type is carried out at the top;
• for large furnaces, a combined smoke circulation system is used, in which the location of the smoke channels is carried out from the sides of the firebox and on top of it.

Dutch stove for a corner house

Another type of heating stoves - "Dutch" corner type. Since they have an angular shape, these stoves are characterized by the fact that they take up less space, which allows you to significantly increase the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by installing the stove in a corner.

Corner brick ovens are often installed because it is not possible to make a rectangular foundation.
To heat a 2-storey house or cottage, they use two-tier brick heating stoves. On each floor, an autonomous stove is installed, which has its own firebox.

The structure of modern heating furnaces includes a grate. With the help of this solution, it became possible to deliver oxygen to the place of combustion of firewood, in the volumes that are necessary to ensure combustion. This is the reason that the combustion of fuel occurs at an intense pace, and with more uniformity. New smoke exhaust systems provide an opportunity to reduce the length of smoke channels. The smoke enters the stove chimney before being cooled down by the excess air.

The above has made it possible to make modern heating stoves more compact, reduce the time spent on the furnace, and also improve efficiency.

The scheme of laying a stove for a house is the first thing a person who decides to equip heating with a stove in his home will need. In this material, we will consider what schemes for laying home brick ovens exist, what are their features and differences.

Laying a stone stove can be done in the following ways:

• 1. undercut;
• 2. with empty seams;

When arranging the stove according to the first method, plastering the stove is not required, since all joints are filled with mortar. The wall thickness of the kiln determines the way in which the bricks are laid. The walls are laid out with a thickness of one brick, and half a brick. Sometimes, you can find masonry in 3.4 bricks.
For work on the arrangement of the furnace, it is imperative to use oven bricks. It is also called "red brick", full-bodied. Under no circumstances use bricks that were taken from any dismantled building, expanded clay blocks or slotted bricks.

Laying the first row is done simply with a brick, without using a mortar. The brick is leveled, the front wall is determined, the places where all the doors will be located. These operations can be called the last "estimate". When these actions are performed, the bricks lie down with the mortar.

After that, begin to lay the corners. The next stage, according to the advice of experts, is the arrangement of the contour of the entire stove. Using plumb lines, a twine is stretched from the ceiling to the corners of the stove. With the help of these vertical lines, you can easily navigate during the work.

Given the model of the stove you have chosen, you should determine the areas in which they will be located: a blower, a combustion chamber, an ash pan. The door under the blower is installed when the third row of bricks is laid out, after one row an ash pan is laid out.

After that, there is an arrangement of the firebox. Each door is attached with burnt wire. When you get to laying out the vault, you will need to cut the bricks. A calculation will be required to ensure a good docking of the bricks with each other. The laying of the vault begins after the second row of bricks is laid after the firebox door.

For lining the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Since the facing brick and masonry brick have different temperature characteristics, the installation of the lining to the furnace itself should not be rigid. During the installation of the chimney pipe, care should be taken to equip a special valve, the adjustment of which should be carried out smoothly and without difficulty.

Brick ovens for home - video instruction

Traditional stoves heat rooms by transferring heat from their walls. The energy that is released during the combustion process is initially accumulated in the walls of the stove, and subsequently the walls give off heat to the surrounding air. All this is determined by the design of the stove itself.

Types of furnace work

Let's take a closer look at the most popular types of stove work for a country house, so that your cottage is as convenient as possible. The first type is a heating stove, which will be used only for heating the premises. Such an oven must be installed in the front of the house, in which case you can achieve the optimal temperature throughout the house.

Such ovens include Dutch ovens and steel or cast-iron temporary huts. Now, a Dutch stove is understood as a large heating stove made of brickwork. Such furnaces differ in wall thickness. Each cottage requires individual approach to the choice of heating system, so the thickness of the furnace walls will depend on the specific conditions in your country house.

In addition to the two mentioned standard types ovens, there are others that are used in a slightly different way. A fireplace in the country house is what can attract friends and relatives to your country house. The fireplace stove looks great. You, gathering with the whole family by the fireplace on winter weekends, will spend unforgettable evenings.

Materials for laying stoves

In addition, furnaces differ in the materials from which they are made. To date, the variety of ovens is simply amazing. That is why when choosing a stove for a country house, it is necessary to resort to the services of professionals who will help you choose something worthwhile and of high quality that will last for decades. Remember that the cottage and the stove are practically inseparable from each other, you should not separate them.

Materials for laying stoves

Name	Brand
Brick kiln ceramic	M-200
fireclay brick	Sha-8
rubble stone	Cobblestone
Clay-sand mixture	Plitonite
Refractory mixture	Plitonite
Furnace fittings	Cast iron
Cement	M-500

Furnace Requirements

When choosing a furnace, it must be remembered that it must meet certain requirements.
Basic requirements for furnaces:
- the oven must be economical. Optimum heating temperature due to low fuel consumption.
- the heating of the furnace must be uniform over the entire surface, this also applies to its lower part. During the day, the heat given off by the stove should be distributed evenly.
- the heating temperature of the furnace surface should be optimal, but not exceed 70-75 degrees.
- the furnace should have a simple design to facilitate masonry.
- ease of operation of the furnace.
- any furnace must comply with fire safety requirements. The main conditions that meet the fire safety rules are: the absence of cracks in the stove, the prevention of smoke removal into the ventilation ducts. It is forbidden to install grilles on the smoke channel.
- the oven must comply with sanitary and technical requirements. Do not line the oven with glue or mastic.
- compactness of the furnace. It should not violate the architectural appearance of the house.
- the stove should create comfort and coziness in the house.

Types of furnaces

The heat itself is first transferred to the walls of the stove from an open flame, and then from heated exhaust gases. And if you want to achieve maximum efficiency from your stove, then you need to install a complex system of chimneys, thanks to which hot gas - before it leaves the stove - will circulate in them for a long time, giving off the necessary heat for the heated room.

The traditional Russian stove is a character in many Russian fairy tales. Ilya Muromets, folk hero, spent more than thirty years on the stove, Emelya rode the stove, she was also a character in fairy tales with Baba Yaga. The childhood of many of us also passed near a cozy large stove.

Traditional wood stoves are widespread in our open spaces. Since ancient times, in the villages, masonry was entrusted to masters of their craft - stove-makers. You also need to carry out preparatory work, as well as dry the oven.

Furnaces that run on natural gas are very simple and at the same time easy to operate. Before you invite a furnace master, you need to decide on the size of the furnace. A small stove will be inefficient, burn a lot of fuel and overheat quickly, and subsequently require sudden repairs. Device gas oven in the house requires individual permission.

Laying the foundation of the furnace is preparatory work. The space between the parts of the foundation must be filled with sand. Determine the optimal location of the furnace so that the chimney does not fall into the beams that are in the wall. The size of the furnace foundation will depend on the dimensions of the furnace, namely, it should be 6-7 cm larger than the transverse size of the furnace. The depth of the foundation for single-story and room furnaces is 50-60 centimeters, for two-story furnaces - 1 meter.

The foundation for the furnace should be made of brick, rubble stone or concrete blocks. After that, the finished foundation is opened with a layer of cement, and several layers of roofing material are laid on top to isolate it from moisture. Prior to laying the furnace, the foundation must settle for 6-8 days.

After finishing the laying of the furnace, it should be dried thoroughly. The right way to dry the stove is a natural drying, in which all doors and windows in the house are left open for two weeks. All oven openings must be open. After the damp spots have disappeared, it can be considered that the oven has dried up. There is also artificial oven drying, which should be used under appropriate weather conditions when it is not possible to dry the oven naturally. At the same time, the surface temperature of the furnace should not exceed 50 0С, the essence of this drying is repeated kindling of the furnace for 30 minutes. It is desirable to melt the oven with small wooden logs. After the furnace has cooled down, re-kinking is carried out. After each next kindling, all stove holes are left open. Artificial drying is carried out for a week, after which, the time for heating can be increased. In humid weather, drying the oven lasts 8-10 days. An indicator that the oven is dry is the absence of puffs of white smoke (water vapor) coming out of the chimney.

Description of work on laying furnaces

During the construction of the furnace, it is necessary to adhere to the drawings given, which are given separately for each row of masonry.

Furnaces are installed on a foundation made of stone or baked bricks. To check the correctness of the masonry, you can first lay out the oven dry, without clay in the yard. First, the bricks of the first row are laid out on level ground, then the second row, and so on. The laying of "Teplushka" above the twelfth row almost does not differ from the laying of an ordinary Russian stove and does not present any difficulties. In the house, the stove is positioned so that the pipe is high and straight. If a boletus is needed in the attic, then its turns are smoothly rounded so that there is no resistance to the movement of flue gases.

The distance from the furnace door to the opposite wall must be at least 1.25 m, the cutting between the furnace and the adjacent wall is made at least half a brick thick plus two layers of felt soaked in clay (that is, from inner surface oven to the wall must be at least 25 cm).

When laying a raw stove, the brick must be in a dried form following sizes: length 25 cm, width 12 cm and thickness 6.5 cm.

During the laying of the furnace, the rules for ligation of bricks are observed. Each vertical seam must be overlapped with a brick of the next upper row. Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always achievable. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it must be at least a quarter of the length of the brick. When laying the furnace, the correctness of the angles (equality of diagonals) and edges is checked. The deviation from the vertical is controlled by a plumb line, the equality of the diagonals - by a cord, the horizontality of the masonry - by a level.

To speed up the masonry with continuous control, four cords are pulled vertically between the ceiling and the corners of the base. From the inner surface of the furnace during masonry, every five rows, lumps of clay are cleaned from the seams with a wet rag, since during the furnace the clay falls off and clogs the furnace.

After finishing the masonry, the remaining lumps of clay are first removed from the furnace through the cleaning holes. Then pieces of brick are inserted into them with clay so that they protrude a little into the room and can be easily removed during the next cleaning. In places that require more frequent supervision, for example, at the base of the chimney, doors are placed for cleaning. During the operation of the stove, the slots in them must be covered with clay.

The seams are made no thicker than 0.5 cm, otherwise the clay crumbles and the masonry is fragile. In order for the mortar to better set with the brick, it is wetted in a bucket of water before laying.

Dry brick removes moisture from the clay mortar and the masonry is fragile and breathable, and this negatively affects the operation of the furnace. Refractory bricks are only dipped into water before laying, as it quickly collapses at high temperatures from prolonged soaking.

The solution is prepared from clay, sand and water. Water should be no more than a quarter of the volume of clay. The amount of sand depends on the degree of fat content of clay: an equal volume of sand is mixed with oily clay, lean clay requires less. A solution is not made from one greasy clay, because when it dries it cracks and the masonry turns out to be loose.

Sand should be fine-grained, without silt and lime. It is sifted through a sieve with cells of 1 ... 2 mm. Coarse sand gives thick seams that reduce the strength of the furnace.

The solution is prepared in a trough or on wooden deck and leave for at least a day, then it is thoroughly mixed and the lumps and pebbles are released. Its suitability is determined by touch. When rubbing the solution between the fingers, a layer of sand grains should be felt. If there is not enough sand, then only a slippery film of clay with individual grains of sand will turn out. With an excess of sand, the seam is dense, but fragile, since not all grains of sand in it are glued together with clay. The mortar is used in such a density that it is easily squeezed out from under the brick when pressed by hand. Only then will it tightly fill the seam.

The devices are installed simultaneously with the laying of bricks, otherwise they will not fit well and will be fixed. The furnace doors are fixed with two horizontal stripes of hooped iron, riveted to the frame of the door. The ends of the strips protruding beyond the frame by 100 mm are wrapped with wire fixed in the masonry. Since the furnace door and the brick expand differently, its frame around the perimeter is wrapped with asbestos cord, and the gap between it and the masonry (3 ... .4 mm) is covered with clay. The rest of the doors are attached to the masonry with two-millimeter 10 oven annealed wire or with the help of strip steel paws riveted to the door frame.

The frames of the valves are clamped in the masonry, the cracks are covered with clay. A metal sheet 60x50 cm in size is nailed to the floor in front of the firebox, covering the floor area under the furnace door.

The folded oven is dried, slowly warming up the masonry, for 8 ... 10 days. On the first day, a small amount of fuel is burned, on the following days its consumption is gradually increased and brought to normal. During drying, the view in the pipe is kept completely open for the free removal of moisture released from the masonry.

If the furnace smokes during combustion, you must first heat the air in the chimney, since draft appears in it when it is filled with smoke that has more high temperature compared to outside air. In the summer, in a damp cold pipe with warm outside air, a reverse draft appears. In all cases, the pipe must be heated by burning paper or small chips inside it at the base (through the cleaning door) or on a view.

Before laying, you should carefully study the drawings of the furnace and the rules for handling it.
If the pipe must be made on the right side, then the drawings are examined using a mirror placed on them with an edge. After the furnace has been built, the working drawings should be kept for possible repairs.

The laying of the first row is carried out along the foundation, brought to the floor level or higher, but not more than 3 cm.