We make a tripod for the pot with our own hands. Suspension of pots and cooking utensils. From A to Y. Features of using tripods

Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a tripod for a fire.

... As I have repeatedly mentioned, from time to time my friends and I go by car to the forest, where we live in tents for several days. This tradition has been going on for more than twenty years, and we are slowly "acquiring" the things necessary for a comfortable stay in the forest. Among them is a tripod for a fire, which freed us from such an activity as searching in the forest for suitable "slingshots" and a crossbar, with their subsequent installation near the fire. The tripod that we purchased was of the following plan (photo from the Internet. Now is not the season, and ours is hidden somewhere on the far shelf.)):

During operation, a number of shortcomings were revealed, namely:

1. There is no way to quickly adjust the height of the cauldron suspension. (On bonfires, as a rule, there is no "twist" to quickly make the fire smaller)))) With abundant boiling, one thing remains - to regulate the heat by raising or lowering the cauldron (cauldron). To do this by moving to another link in the chain is good only in theory! In practice, at least two people are needed - one lifts the cauldron (and it is heavy!), The other outweighs the chain. And even doing it together on outstretched arms over a blazing fire and a boiling cauldron is still a pleasure!)))). In addition, if you outweigh it high, then the rest of the chain strives to dip into the boiler))).

2. Not wide enough! Our company is large, and if, for example, a fifteen-liter boiler hangs, then it should hang only below! You can’t lift it, because the “legs” narrow from above. In order for it to fit high too, the tripod must be over two meters high...

3. Insufficient compactness. Even when folded, it is over a meter long! Not in any trunk enters along, or across! And if you put it diagonally, it takes up a lot of usable space!

4. It cannot be put aside if it is temporarily not needed! That is, I would like the tripod in the assembled state to be a rigid structure that can be put on a glove (it can be hot!) Just temporarily set aside, and then just as easily put back in its place. (And when In doing so, she did not change her geometry, even if she was carried by one "leg") And ours, when trying to lift it, adds up. (And she is hot!))). That is, you can still remove it and throw it aside, but now, putting it back over a blazing fire is problematic! You need to wait until the fire goes out a little.

Given all these points, I decided to make a new one with my own hands. And here's what I got:

In this photo, it is not fully expanded. The lower segments of the "legs" are telescopic!! If you extend them, then the height from the ground to the hook (in its upper position) is 1m. 60 cm!! It's just that now is not the season for trips "to nature" and I photographed it indoors, the dimensions of which did not allow such a massive structure to be fully captured in the frame.))))

Here's what I needed to make it:

1. Profile pipe with a section of 15 by 15 mm.
2. Profile pipe, section 20 to ... mm. (Needed for the manufacture of a U-shaped guide, so any trim will do profile pipe with one wall 20 mm)
3. Sheet iron 5 mm thick. (I have a "corrugation", this is not necessary)
4. Cut off the M14 stud.
5. square (rolled) 10 by 10 mm.
6. square (rolled) 12 by 12 mm. (Needed to reinforce the bends ("knees") of the "fifteen" pipe, so short cuts are suitable).
7. Suspension spring element from the system suspended ceilings"Armstrong".
8. Wire with a diameter of 4 mm.
9. Cut of the railing tube 16 mm. (Not necessary.)
10. M6 bolts 25 mm long. (3 pcs. for the manufacture of axes "legs")
11. M6 cap nuts. (For the same.)
12. M6 wing bolts. (3 pcs. For fixing the telescopic parts.)
13. Nuts M6. (normal)
14. Nuts M14.
15. M5 wing bolts (3 pcs.)
16. M5 wing nuts (3 pcs).
17. Heat-resistant enamel.

I wrote this list - and I myself am in shock !!! After all, he made something simple, one might say, a primitive product, and it took a lot of names of materials!
But nothing!! We are not looking for easy ways!!! The product turned out, and meets all the criteria laid down by me! So - time and effort spent not in vain!

So, where did I start? .. Do you think from a drawing? If so, then you are only partly right!
The fact is that I never make drawings of my homemade products! This takes time, and it is never enough! Plus, crafting is my hobby! So, each product is made in a single copy! Therefore, after its manufacture, the drawing will certainly not be needed! And since God did not offend me with spatial thinking, I prepare all the "drawings" of homemade products only in my head! As a rule, I do this while driving, where I spend a lot of time, daily spinning around the city. And I draw individual details only on the blanks, before taking up the grinder!)))) And if I need the size I intuitively need to "translate into meters", then I imagine the future detail, holding a tape measure in my hands, looking at it, and mentally trying on a future detail for it))))

But now I still drew a little... That is, I just drew a sketch of a tripod of such dimensions as I would like, on a scale of 1:1 on a sheet of cardboard.))).

And then it's easier. Applying the blank to the sketch, I made one of the three main elements. (I started with the upper parts of the "legs").

According to my idea, this part will have two short "shoulders" bent at a certain angle at the ends. The upper "shoulders" will be dressed with ends on the axis, and, through them, hinged to the top plate. The upper and lower plates will be pulled together with an M14 pin, and the “shoulders”, being sandwiched between them, will provide a rigid fastening of the “legs” and the desired angle of their arrangement ...
In short ... Here, look at the photo of the finished product, you will immediately understand everything))):

If the pin is loosened and the plates are separated, then "the legs can be folded to a position where their long parts become parallel:

That is, the folding mechanism of the main nodes is clear. By tightening the plates with a hairpin, we force the "legs" to diverge until their upper "shoulders" are firmly clamped between the plates. The design will take on a rigid final shape.

Since it is impossible to bend a profile pipe at the right angle, I, having estimated the desired length of the "shoulders" and the desired angle from the template (sketch), made cuts?

Since the upper "shoulders" will have to withstand heavy loads, I decided to strengthen them. Cut out one wall

From square rolled products 12 by 12 mm I cut off three segments and made transverse cuts in them with a depth of about half:

Then, Bent to the desired angle using the "sledgehammer-impact method"
The angle was "measured" by applying blanks to my sketch.

After that, I hammered the resulting amplifiers into the pipe:

Then he bent the "opened" parts to them and boiled them well, paying attention to the incision at the fold.

After pre-treatment with a cleaning wheel, I drilled holes for the axles:

Everything... The upper "shoulder" is ready. I made the lower one with similar amplifiers, only I had to cut off the “shoulders” completely, hammer in short amplifiers, and then boil, because the design there will be a little different:

Having found the center, I drilled holes in them for the stud:

From a cut pipe with one wall of 20 mm, I cut out three "landing" for the upper "shoulders" (I have them, as we remember, square section with a side of 15 mm, and the internal size of the landing turned out to be 16 mm.):

And welded them to the top platform.

Here I will describe my mistake. Initially, I planned to screw the stud from below, so I welded an M14 nut to the top plate, protecting its thread from metal splashes with wetted paper:

But, already at the first "fitting" it turned out that it is very inconvenient to twist the hairpin from below - the "legs" interfere. So I drilled out the threads in this nut, and welded a similar nut to the bottom plate. Now the hairpin will be screwed in from above.

In the corners of the lower platform, I made cutouts for the "legs". Now, when we clamp our structure, the bottom platform into which the stud is screwed will not be able to rotate.

The next thing I started making a comfortable collar from a hairpin. First things first, I drilled an axial hole in it, with a diameter of 6 mm. I will need this in order to make a "cunning" cauldron suspension mechanism smoothly adjustable in height, which I will talk about later ...

Drilling the hole was difficult. Drilled in a vice. To do this, I screwed three nuts and "locked" them well. For them, and held in a vice, so as not to spoil the thread:

I constantly lubricated the drill, drilled at low speeds, monitored the parallelism of the drill in all planes ... And the drill was short. Then I had to aim from the other side ....
But it worked!

To make the collar, I screwed two nuts onto the end of the stud and welded them:

Then he drilled two blind holes in their faces (so that they reached the stud), hammered bolts into them and welded:

.... And I realized that I was wrong again !!!
Since my tripod when folded in cross section will have a triangular shape, it would be logical to make a case for it triangular! And in any case, such a knob will protrude beyond the tripod ...

So I cut off one bolt:

And welded two:

Such a knob can be turned so that it does not stick out beyond the upper triangular plate, and it will be even more convenient to rotate it than a bolt with two knobs.

Next, I started making the lower parts of the "legs". As planned, they will be telescopic. A 10x10 square will come out of a 15x15 pipe.
(The profile pipe has a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Theoretically, it should include a 12 by 12 square bar, from which I made amplifiers. But in practice, it is only clogged there with a sledgehammer, since the pipe is welded, and has a welding seam inside. Therefore, I chose a smaller section).
The telescopic extensions will be clamped in the desired position with wing bolts. Therefore, having cut three pieces of pipe of the required length, I drilled holes in them closer to the edge with a diameter of 8 mm, and welded over them along the M6 ​​nut:

This was hard enough to do with arc welding. To fix it in the right position and to protect the thread from metal splashes, I used a bolt, which is "not a pity")))

From all the pipes behind the welded nut I cut off the "extra":

Dressed him on rods:

Welded and sharpened:

Such a design will protect the inside of the pipe from clogging with earth if we stick it into the ground without unfolding the telescopic part, and, at the same time, serve as limiters - it will not allow the bars to go inside when folding more than necessary .... Yes, and it looks somehow more organic.
...Initially, I thought about how to limit the departure of these elements. And, even, he came up with ... but abandoned this idea because then the telescopic structure would not be collapsible! And, if sand gets inside, it will be problematic to clean! Therefore, I decided to exclude this moment, and in order not to accidentally stick out the "legs" more than expected, just paint their upper part with red enamel. As soon as it appeared red - stop! You can't go further!

Now we will make the top mount. It is supposed to fold up. But you can’t make it telescopic - the “knee” on the upper part interferes. And if you just fold to the side on the axis, then there will not be enough rigidity. So I came up with this compromise solution:

The "legs" will fold on the axis, but, having expanded them by 180 degrees, you can move back a little so that their ends enter the upper part of the pipe, and clamp it in this position with a wing bolt with a wing nut. You get a rigid mount at two points - the hinge "will be immobilized by a telescopic moment!"

I implemented it like this:
I cut three pieces of a square with a side of 12 mm and drilled holes in them with a diameter of 6 mm:

After that, the grinder cut one side along.

Everyone who has gone hiking knows how important it is to be able to quickly and efficiently cook hot food at a halt. Experienced hikers can make a fire in any weather, hang a pot over the fire, cook soup or porridge with a smoky smell. For those who are just starting to walk the earth with a backpack on their shoulders, the experience of experienced hikers will help.

A tripod for a bowler hat is the most transparent and obvious way to hang it over a fire.

In a stationary tourist camp or traveling by car, it is convenient to use a barbecue for cooking. However, for walking or boating, this thing is too bulky. Often use a frame from the barbecue. This allows you to install several vessels in a row above the fire. However, carrying such a design is still difficult.

A tripod for a bowler hat is the most transparent and obvious way to hang it over a fire. There are, of course, numerous ways to strengthen the dishes over the fire:

• On the rack - a leg with horizontal rods, on each of which a separate bowler is placed, the structure is usually made of metal;
• On two horns with a transverse stick containing several vessels;
• On a rope stretched between two sticks - racks;
• On an inclined pole fixed with stones;
• On a tripod;
• On 2 tripods with a pole or rope fixed between them.

Rogatin or rack must be stuck or driven into the ground. Tripods are distinguished by the fact that they are suitable for any type of soil, even stony ones.

Tripods are distinguished by the fact that they are suitable for any type of soil, even stony ones.

The tripod is easy to make from improvised materials right on the spot. This will require only 3 sticks and a rope to secure them. The pieces of wood for the supports can be crooked, this will not impair the quality of the structure. Any rope is also suitable, even synthetic cord, but it is preferable to take cotton with you.

By moving the rope fastening the poles, as well as shifting and pushing the supports, they change the height of the kettle hanging above the fire. This allows you to adjust the degree of heating.

To hang the bowler hat, you need a hook. It is also good to take a hanger for a bowler hat with you to nature, carving it out of wood is not an easy and time-consuming task. It is convenient to hang dishes on an S-shaped steel hook.

It is convenient to hang dishes on an S-shaped steel hook.

What is required for construction. Necessary materials and tools

A tripod can be easily purchased in a store; the price of a cheap model for March 2019 is a little more than 200 rubles. Such a tripod consists of three pieces of a hollow profile of rectangular or circular cross section, fastened together with a screw and nut. A steel chain with a hook is put on the screw. Profile thickness about 1 mm. The tripod weighs a little, retracts into the case.

A more reliable design consists of three legs passed through a triangular plate with cutouts. The armature is fastened with screws. In the center of the plate there is a hole through which the chain for the bowler is passed and fixed at the top.

Robust design represents three legs passed through a triangular plate with cutouts.

The disadvantages of this product include the difficulty of adjusting the height of the suspension of the kettle. Theoretically, this is done by hanging the hook with the bowler hat on another link in the chain. In practice, doing this is hot and hard. You have to work together: one lifts the bowler hat, the other hooks the hook at the right height.

Therefore, for those who use a tripod constantly, it makes sense to make a fixture on their own. A conscientiously made thing will serve for a long time and will not let you down in difficult times.

A self-made metal product will eliminate the need to look for suitable tree at the landing site. You don't have to cut young trees. For the sake of this alone, it is worth making a tripod in advance.

To make a reliable support, a drawing is not required. To make a simple but high-quality tripod, you need 3 pieces of aluminum or steel pipe. If steel blanks are used, then the walls should be thin to reduce the weight of the finished product.

To make a simple but high-quality tripod, you need 3 pieces of aluminum or steel pipe.

To fasten the tubes together and form a suspension point, you will need 3 steel bolts with nuts and lugs. 2 steel hooks in the shape of the letter S and a chain will serve to hang the bowler hat.

From the tools you need to prepare a hammer, a saw for metal - a manual or a grinder and pliers. The manufacturing process is simple and does not take much time.

Material preparation

Preparatory work and assembly is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Pipe segments must be of the same size and range from 150 to 200 cm. Using a saw, they are given equal length;
2. The loop of one of the bolts is slightly unclenched with pliers. The loops of the remaining 2 bolts and the upper link of the chain are threaded into it. Then the loop is again clamped with a hammer to ensure the reliability of the structure;
3. The ends of the bolts with screwed nuts are inserted into individual pipe sections. If the bolt enters the cavity freely and dangles, flatten the pipe above and below the nut with a hammer;
4. To hang the kettle on the lower link of the chain, one of the steel hooks is put on, its upper loop is clamped with a hammer. This ensures that the hook does not come off at the most crucial moment;
5. A second hook is threaded into the link of the chain, which is 3-4-5 links from the top, and the loop is also fixed with a hammer. The design will allow you to raise the bowler, hooking several links of the chain to the bottom loop.

The resulting tripod folds easily. Suspension height adjustment is possible not only due to the chain, but also due to shifting and expanding the supporting reinforcement.

Suspension height adjustment is possible not only due to the chain, but also due to shifting and expanding the supporting reinforcement.

Another option for a homemade tripod is from segments of a din rail. In this case, it is useful to make the legs consisting of 2 parts, which will allow you to get a more compact product. The halves of the supports are fastened with bolts - lambs, and at the top the legs are connected with metal wire.

A stronger structure will be obtained from a steel profile pipe. The upper parts of the supports are bent, forming a shoulder, and fixed between two steel plates fastened with a pin. It is impossible to simply bend profiled steel, so you have to cut out the corners, bend at the cut, and then weld them together. The severity of the resulting product, the need to think through the reliable fastening of the shoulders between the plates limit its use. It is better to settle on a simpler and more easily implemented model.

A stronger structure will be obtained from a steel profile pipe.

How to hang a bowler hat on a tripod over a fire

If the tripod for the pot is made by hand, then hanging the vessel over the fire will not be difficult. Everything has already been calculated and foreseen in advance.

If the tripod for the pot is made by hand, then hanging the vessel over the fire will not be difficult.

However, sometimes you have to improvise. If the need to cook food arises in winter, against the backdrop of cold snowy expanses, and special devices no, how then to hang the kettle over the fire? It is convenient to use ski poles as tripod legs. By tying the loops together, it is easy to get a reliable connection. And the hook to hang the bowler hat can be replaced with a piece of any rope.

Video: Do-it-yourself tripod for a cauldron

We all love to go to nature, relax, fry kebabs and cook porridge. To cook porridge in nature, it is necessary to hang a cauldron over a fire, and how to do it? Of course, with the help of a tripod, which will confidently hold the bowler hat. Today we will learn how to make a tripod with our own hands, so as not to spend a lot of money on a new one in stores.

How to make a tripod with your own hands?

The main thing that is required from a tripod is strength and compactness, and for us, of course, cheapness. It is with these arguments that we will make a tripod from DIN rails. Let's prepare the materials for the tripod, we need:

DIN rails, length 50-70 cm, 6 pcs.
. Screws with nuts suitable for the size of the cells in the rails, 6 pcs.
. Chain, 1mm thick, 60cm.
. Wire, diameter 2-3mm., 20-30 cm.

Having prepared the materials, we can proceed.

1. In DIN rails, 3 pieces, holes should be made with a drill, with a diameter of 3-4 mm. See photo for hole locations. Then we insert a piece of wire into the holes made and bend it into a triangle shape.

Thus, we have already received the base for a tripod 60 cm high.

Now our tripod has grown and is over 1 meter tall.

3. Now we move on to the chain, we attach a hook at one end so that it is convenient to hang the cauldron, and we stretch the other end from bottom to top through the top hole in the tripod. And near the hole itself, we put a pin through the chain to fix it.

Here the tripod is ready, you can test it in the field!

I think many, if not all, faced such a problem as Hanging Cookware over Fire in the Forest. To be honest, the topic is more voluminous and extensive than it seems to many, and even two publications are not enough to fully reveal it, because. each species has many subtleties. After all, even fast boil boiling water for tea - Science.
In this article I want to give not everything, but at least in my opinion more successful designs systems for suspension especially without delving into their subtleties.
I will focus on the top 3 options in more detail.

Z.Y. I warn you in advance about the large volume of the article. (For owners of slow Internet)

All the names of the options were invented by me personally, so please treat them with humor and in no case include common sense.

So, let's begin.
Let's go from the end...

With the so-called classics, which it is difficult not to mention, and which one way or another periodically have to deal with, sometimes not of one's own free will. Serious options will be discussed from the middle of the article, where everyone can rewind if he is not interested.
Although to be honest, when I wrote all this it was interesting even to me, although I have done these options more than once in real life and before writing I thought over the text of this article.

1) Method with Rogatins

The first method that I will consider will be the oldest and probably the simplest. These are the well-known 2 horns stuck into the ground and a pole placed on them, on which the bowler(s) is hung.

I want to offer a slightly modernized design, which, in my opinion, is much more convenient than the standard one.
If possible, you can find a horn similar to this (with as many knots as possible) and provide yourself, although rather inaccurate, but still adjusting the height of the kettle above the fire.

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

• It takes an ax, or a collection of funds, to cut down and then hammer in the pegs.
• It is necessary to spend some time looking for suitable spears and a straight pole.
• The need for periodic replacement of components due to their burnout
• Pretty low suspension comfort.
  (Poor height adjustment and absolute inconvenience when hanging/removing the bowler. And when using > 1 bowler, this task becomes almost impossible.)

(+) Pros

• The ability to build this suspension with a minimum of things
• No need to carry

2) Way Physical

Advantages and disadvantages

I will not repeat myself, because this method and the next one are quite similar, therefore, all the advantages and disadvantages here are the same as in Point No. 1, although there is one very good goodness here.
Unlike these 3, in this way no need to bring tools for cutting pegs. For him, you just need to find 2 suitable logs, stones or any other suitable items, therefore he has tremendous versatility. This suspension can be built even without a single tree around, you just need to find a piece of stick and a couple of stones.

• Improved ease of height adjustment, though we pay for this by the impossibility of hanging 2 or more bowlers.

3) Tourist-Physical way

See option 2, all advantages and disadvantages are identical.

4) Other variations of the method With Rogatins

This Class is directly related to method No. 1, only it has undergone some changes, due to the visual (-) thereof. Namely, in most cases it is impossible to stick 2 stakes into the ground, or for example, there are simply no trees, so we put our crossbar either on 2 large stones, or simply on the snow (in winter), under the layer of which a fire burns in a previously dug trench, or even on anything, depending on the situation.




See Option #1

So let's move on to the Vkusnyashki, namely to my favorites.

Like I said, let's go from the end. Here I will give 3 of the best, in my opinion, hangers for bowlers.
3 place:

5) Campfire Rope

Everyone's favorite and I think almost everyone knows the fire rope.
Here I want to bring not a purchased, but my self-made and invented version. I want to warn you that the technology is patented by me personally, so everything is "Patented" ©.

Suspension in general

Construction device:
The design consists of a Cable (2m and 1.5mm thick) at the ends of which a cord is tied
(the length of the cord is selected individually, but I want to warn you that too long a cord starts to interfere quite strongly when knitting and winding
(I have it 3 and 5m. From one end, I advise you to make it longer, simply because it is more convenient. Why - you will understand for yourself on the spot))
the thickness of which is not less than 3mm.
(mine is 4mm, but again it all depends on your requirements. If you plan to hang cans of 10 liters on it, then the cord and cable should be taken much thicker. I have an option of no more than 10 liters in total.)
The cable is attached to the cord with the help of special fasteners.
(“Cable connector”, which, including the cable itself, is bought at any hardware store. You should also purchase Cable ends there - extremely useful thing, which prevents the cable from branching and the possibility of pricking at the end)
Knot - any non-tightening loop, preferably one that does not weaken the rope too much
(In this case, eight).

This design is stretched between 2 trees with a thickness of 10 cm
(So ​​there will be no problems with the wind, although you can tie it at least for seedlings)
at about waist height. The tension force can be made more, but within reasonable limits, do not break the cable.


We figured out the static elements, now about the dynamic ones. And this is the 2nd part of this design, namely the chain.
(Or chains, depending on how many koteks need to be hung)
(The chain is also taken in a hardware store, you can use it like mine, you can use a regular one, it doesn’t matter. The diameter depends on your requirements, respectively)
A hook is attached to the top and bottom of the chain, which can be bent from the same chain, but it is better to make it from a stronger wire. (I made from unnecessary bicycle spokes)
Why 2 hook next ...

The point is that the chain-hooks are one, which eliminates the eternal problem of this option - the rapid loss of hooks-Integrals.

Another "scourge" of this method is the impossibility of hanging the bowler hat at any particular point, it always strives to slide to the center. In my version, I solved this problem by using the chain itself on which the bowler hangs as brakes while not using additional bells and whistles to save weight.
The chain consists of: The chain itself, on 2 sides of which hooks are attached, while a bowler hangs at one end of it, while the other end is bent over a cable and fixed on itself with a hook.
At the same time, we also get the opportunity to adjust its length if we need to raise or lower the boiler, and this can be done both with the lower hook and the upper one.


The cost of all components in total should be no more than 180 rubles, in contrast to those purchased for more than 200 wooden ones.
(Mine cost me a little less than 110, taking into account the purchase of 3 sets of chains (for 3 boilers))

I’ll get ahead of myself in the pros and write here first, so as not to fill up with the text of DiN.
About the Pluses, Probably her main plus, because of which I often take her instead of those who take 1st and 2nd places - let's call it that, "Soul". Not a single option, well, with the exception of probably only 1 method (which is with spears), does not have something that attracts to itself, so to speak, complements the situation. What else can be compared with a cable hanging over a fire to which a bowler hat is suspended, and some gloves, mugs and other household items are stuck on the sides. accessories ... In my opinion, nothing!

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

• The need to carry with you, with all the ensuing...
• Unlike the "Classics" you need to buy and then make
• Possibility to stretch only where there are 2 closely spaced trees
• Inability to adjust the position of the bowler along the OX axis (Perpendicular to the cable)

(+) Pros

• "Soul"
• Durability
• Pretty good control over the position of the pot over the fire. (Starting from altitude to location (Along the y-axis line))

6) Tripod

Probably the simplest and cheapest suspension option, while having quite a few disadvantages. So to say, almost perfect value for money for a small group.

In order not to repeat, because I have already described this option, I will give only a link to the article.
Here I will only describe the most important features in my opinion.

This tripod is made from 3 legs made from poles of almost any shape.
(Mine in the photo is made from curves, due to the lack of straight poles)
The legs are tied with a rope.

The position of the bowler is adjusted by moving the legs-supports.
We shift them closer to the center - the boiler rises; We move - it goes down.
With the movement is the same, depending on the desired position, we move one or more legs.

If desired, a regular rope with a wooden hook can be replaced with a Cord with a chain tied to the end with a hook at the end. (as in the previous method)
In this case, the functionality of the option is further increased, while the cost will not exceed 20 rubles.

Legs, if desired, can also be made of aluminum, but I already consider this a move to reduce functionality and unnecessary.

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

• Impossibility of hanging > 1 bowler (It is necessary to tie an additional rope, or think of something to hang on 1 hook)

(+) Pros

• Absolute control over the position of the pot above the fire (Across all XYZ axes)
• Durability
• Cheapness of manufacture
• Doesn't interfere with walking around a campfire
• Versatility (Construction is possible even in the absence of trees (Stands can be of any shape)
• Lightweight and compact to carry

7) Taganok

So 1st place - Taganok, made either in advance from metal, or already directly on the spot from stones, poles, etc. improvised materials.

Unfortunately, I did not find a photo of the Taganka in my archives, so in this version I had to turn to third-party pictures from the Internet and Photoshop.

So what is the main advantage of this seemingly non-compact, heavy option?
And the whole class of this method lies in the fact that on it alone you can not only cook, but also fry, bake bread, etc.
So it is better than all other options most suitable for cooking. Moreover, this the only option
(only a fire rope can probably compete with him, but again, not in everything) which in the best possible way fits for cooking for a large group.

Below I want to give a diagram made in haste of my own portable taganka, which I periodically use if I go hiking not alone, but in the 3rd or more.


On the diagram:
red- marked hollow tube bent letter"P". (It is desirable if it is thick-walled)
blue- thin armature for legs
Brown- Earth and
black- bowler hat

Also, if desired, taganok can be made on the spot from improvised materials, for example:

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

• In most cases, insufficient adjustment of the position of the bowler along the OX axis (Perpendicular to the Taganka)
• Prefabrication required (Although local fabrication is possible)
• The metal version is not always possible to stick into the ground

(+) Pros

• Unlike other options, there is the possibility of cooking for a large group
• Adjusting the position of the bowler in height, the OY axis (along the taganka) and partially OX (perpendicular to it)
• Durability
• Possibility of manufacturing from improvised materials
• Ability to fry, bake, etc.

Z.Y.:

I will be glad if this article will be useful to someone.
If anyone knows more ways, write below, I think not only I will be interested in learning something new ...

Thank you for watching!
All photos were taken from my archive, in this regard, I am ready to answer any questions.

One of the advantages of outdoor recreation is cooking on an open fire, which makes ukha, kulesh and even simple tea seem incredibly tasty. But it is not always possible to find suitable stones to build a semblance of a hearth. Therefore, take a light tripod with you from aluminum tubes – perfect solution, since it does not take up much space, it is quickly assembled and convenient to use. Of course, you can buy a finished factory-assembled product, but for a craftsman who likes to do everything with his own hands, this is not interesting.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a tripod for a hike, you will need the following materials:

• 3 pieces of aluminum or thin-walled steel pipe 150–200 mm long. The longer the pipes, the higher the tripod will turn out.
• 3 steel eye bolts.
• 3 S-shaped hooks.
• Metal chain to hang the bowler.

Of the tools you will need:

• Hammer.
• Bulgarian or hand saw for metal.
• Pliers.

Making a tripod

Now you can proceed directly to the assembly of the tripod. If pipes of greater length were prepared, they must be cut to a convenient length, which can be any.
To connect the bolts to each other, you need to open one of the loops a little so that you can put on other bolts.

The most convenient way to do this is to hold the bolt in a vice, and open the ring with pliers or a gas wrench. This is the hardest part of assembling the tripod, so it will take some fiddling.
When the eye is sufficiently pressed, the rings of the other two bolts and one end of the chain are put on it.

After that, with the help of a hammer, the unclenched ring is compressed so that the worn elements do not fall out and the structure remains intact.
The tripod legs are connected in this order.
The end of a bolt with a nut screwed onto it is inserted into one of the ends of the pipes. If the nut dangles freely in the pipe, then you need to knock on the pipe on a rigid base a little above and below the nut and flatten it a little. This will securely fix the nut in the pipe so that the tripod does not fall apart at the most inopportune moment.

When this is done, an S-shaped hook is put on the chain 3-5 links from the top of the tripod, which will allow you to adjust the height of the dishes above the fire.
Advice! The end of the hook, which is put on the chain, must be clamped with a hammer or pliers so that it does not fall out and is not lost during transportation.
If the length of the chain is too long, then it must be shortened so that the dishes are located a few centimeters above the ground when the tripod is unfolded.

Another S-shaped hook is put on the last link of the chain, the end is clamped. Dishes will be hung on this hook: a cauldron, a kettle, a kettle or other suitable utensils.

You can adjust the height of the dishes above the fire by moving the legs of the tripod or by hooking the chain into several links on the upper hook.

Of the advantages of this design, it should be noted its compactness and ease of folding / unfolding.

If desired, you can slightly expand the functionality of the tripod. For example, holes can be drilled in the legs and additional hooks can be fixed on which it will be possible to dry shoes or hang dishes away from the fire so that the food does not cool down.
Note! When making an open fire in nature, you must follow the rules fire safety! You also need to monitor the clothes or shoes dried over the fire so that they do not burn. To do this, the legs of the tripod must be of such length that their lower part can be located at a sufficient distance from the fire and remain cold.