Plasterboard ceilings with LED lighting. Illuminated plasterboard ceiling is the best choice. Schemes of combined lighting boxes

Tiered ceilings with spot and hidden lighting provide designers with such a huge number of opportunities that they will definitely not go out of fashion soon. Today we will tell you about how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting with your own hands.

Formation and fastening of the profile frame

In ordinary cases, a two-tier ceiling only imitates a cascade. The highest tier is usually not formed by a drywall construction, instead a sub-ceiling surface is used. This plane can be tightened with a stretch ceiling.

This design implies that all prefabricated elements are attached directly to the ceiling independently of each other. Adjacent profiles of adjacent tiers, however, can be fastened together, but not for the purpose of strengthening - rather, for faster and more convenient assembly and alignment of the structure. Such a frame is recruited really quickly, but does not behave very well with a high mass of the suspended structure. Due to the lack of a common base, the frame is subject to shifts and deformations.

There is another concept as well. For ceilings with three or more tiers, as well as for structures lowered from the draft ceiling by more than 30 cm, the frame has a real cascade device. In other words, each tier is independent in the horizontal plane and serves as the basis for the underlying one, and the design itself resembles an inverted pyramid. This approach is very beneficial both from the point of view of saving profiles, and from the standpoint of reliability and overall solidity.

However, today we will talk about two simpler structures that demonstrate the visual construction of tiers one after the other according to any of the systems described above. In the general case, the lower tiers of the ceiling can be represented by an external figure adjacent to one or more walls, or an internal figure located at some distance from the ceiling corners.

In the first version, the frame is like a ceiling edging and has two lines of a guide profile for fastening to walls and ceilings. The profile is nailed to the wall horizontal line, cutting the room with a common plane in the horizon. The second profile is attached to the ceiling along the line marking the contour of the future figure. In both cases, you need to give an allowance for the thickness of the sheet and finish.

The main plane of the tier is assembled like any other: rack-mounted CD-60s, which do not protrude beyond the projection line of the figure in length. The rack elements of the frame are assembled perpendicular to each of the walls to which the tier adjoins, in increments of 45-60 cm. When working with external figures, one assumption can be made: do not continue the profile after the first intersection. It looks like that the profiles of one wall, resting against the transversely directed profiles of the neighboring one, are limited to a T-shaped joint, for which it is allowed to cut the cross (crab) in two diagonally.

For internal figures, the lathing of the plane should be carried out with a frame mesh with a cell of 60 cm. But how to install rack profiles if there are no guides under them? The fact is that the assembly of external corners is a topic for a separate discussion, there are several options for execution.

Tier recruitment methods

We settled on the fact that along the contour of the figure, a profile with a guide function is nailed to the ceiling with metal anchor wedges or dowels. If the edge of the tier is straight, the profile is nailed to the central shelf. Segments of a rack CD-60 are inserted into it, the length corresponding to the height of the tier. The lower edge of the segments is cut under the “tongue”, to which the third guide profile is attached to two self-tapping screws, edging the rack profiles of the horizontal part of the frame.

If the face of the figure has a bend, a flexible segmented profile is attached to the ceiling in this area. And this is the only way to attach the radius face to the ceiling. A self-cut "herringbone" cannot serve as a suspension, its shelves will sag under the weight of the structure. Accordingly, after sewing the sheets, the edge of the figure will sag unevenly by several millimeters. This is not so important for thin cornices and vignettes, but we are considering larger figures.

The handicraft "Christmas tree" from the profile still finds its application in radius ceilings: it is used to frame the ends of the rack-mount profiles of the horizontal plane. This edging is connected to the ceiling profile using sections of the rack profile, and if the bends are too steep, the CD-60 is replaced with a narrower guide.

If the side face of the figure forms a niche with illumination, the jumpers from the ceiling profile are made with a CD-60 rack and fastened in such a way as to maintain the horizontal edge, that is, exactly above it. At the same time, the frame of the plane is slightly extended beyond the contour of the figure and framed by a “herringbone”, to which a thin strip of drywall is then attached, forming a side. Inside, another strip is sewn along the vertical posts, wider, which acts as a reflective partition.

After assembling the frame and approving its final configuration, it is necessary to strengthen the crate of horizontal planes. This is done with direct suspensions, and with a very low ceiling - with knitting needles.

To assemble a soundproof ceiling, special damping mounts for the profile should be used.

For any type of profile connection, there are specialized fasteners

Electrical network laying

Before finally closing access to the internal cavities of the ceiling, communications are laid in them. It can be both lighting cables and transit wiring, communication lines and speaker wires built into the ceiling. Regardless of the type, these cables must be corrugated. Not only for reasons fire safety, but to protect against cuts when pulling through. Another rule concerns fasteners: power cables, including local lighting, should not be fixed to the frame profiles, only to the ceiling. Unlike television and other low-voltage conductors, these can be tied up with nylon ties.

This explains why it would be a mistake to first hem the horizontal planes of the tiers, and then scatter the hidden electrical network. This is done under the pretext that it is much easier to wire through the holes for spotlights, but it is supposed to fasten the wires to the frame, which, we repeat, is not allowed by the rules for the safe operation of electrical installations (PBEEP 15.2.2). In this light, the transition to a low-voltage lighting network, for example, LED strips, seems to be even more profitable, especially when the backlit tiers are far from the draft ceiling.

In any case, the connection points are marked along the ceiling, sometimes with strips of electrical tape on the profile. At this point, the cable should be rolled into a loop with a margin sufficient for convenient connection of the luminaire on weight, standing on a stepladder under the ceiling. In these places, the wires must first be stripped and provided with terminal blocks, while it is advisable not to break the core. Separate lighting lines are connected to a common highway by means of small boxes fixed to the ceiling. Those, in turn, are connected by a 4- or 5-wire wire to the junction box of the common network, where the decoupling to the switches is performed.

1. Control unit. 2. LED strip. 3. Remote control. 4. Power supply

If electronic ballasts or voltage transformers are included in the lighting network, they should be installed at a minimum distance from the powered light sources. The majority of such equipment is produced in a protected case, so they can be mounted directly to the ceiling on a non-combustible substrate. Moreover, putting the device in a box can cause it to wear out quickly due to insufficient cooling.

ceiling lining

When covering the GKL ceiling, you should start from flat horizontal planes, which contributes to more rational use scraps for fragmentary sewing of side faces. First, all sheets are hemmed to the frame crate, and then to the edge. The distance between the attachment points is about 25-30 cm in the center of the sheet and 10-15 cm at the edges.

The hemming of the lower faces made in the first place makes it easier to work with radius parts. The trimmed "herringbone" on the outer edges is attached to every second or third petal, due to which the middle shelf acquires sufficient rigidity for attaching the sheets to the side face. After that, you can cut holes for the lamps with a crown and bring out hidden lighting wires: it is more convenient to do this while the side edges of the ceiling are still open.

The ends of the tiers are also sewn up quite simply. Small fragments are screwed to the ceiling and edge profiles, as well as to the racks connecting them with a standard fastening pitch. In the places where the fragments are joined, trimmings of the rack profile are placed under the seam, which do not have a direct attachment to the frame.

Drywall is prepared for sewing curved surfaces in several ways. These can be transverse notches with a knife, or rolling with a needle roller with impregnation of the sheet with water to obtain flexibility. The second option is preferable because of the high speed of execution and minimal effort for subsequent alignment. However, a wet sheet must first be fixed, only after giving it the desired shape, moreover, only on the main bends. The remaining screws are screwed in after drying, when the sheet becomes dense enough again.

A strip of drywall wetted with water bends easily, and the curved surface results in a regular shape and smooth

Ceiling finish

Do not forget that the finishing of multi-tiered ceilings is associated with the widespread use of corner and flat tapes to reinforce the seams. In the first case, these should be metallized paper tapes or perforated corner profiles. Flat seams are covered with a special perforated tape.

Be sure to chamfer all ends of the drywall sheet, especially when forming outside corners so that after a rough finish with a starting putty, you get a strong and reliable edge that will not crack over time

When strengthening the seams, it is recommended to use the starting plaster, and with it, initially, stretch all the surfaces of the ceiling with the laying of fiberglass. This will create a uniform substrate, which means that the places for sealing joints and self-tapping screws will not be visible through a thin smoothing layer of the finish.

Multi-level ceilings are very beautiful in themselves, but if they have built-in lighting, they become a real highlight of the interior. About how to make a plasterboard ceiling with lighting, we will tell and show in this article.

Ceiling installation

In one of the previous articles, we already talked about how to make a single-level . In the event that you want to make a backlit drywall ceiling with your own hands, this information will be very useful to you when installing the main, upper level.

We will not completely repeat the information presented earlier here, but we will draw your attention to some differences in the installation of the frame for a conventional ceiling and the ceiling to which the illuminated box will be attached.

Features of the top-level frame device

By itself, drywall - the material is not strong enough. In any case, he is not able to bear the weight of the second tier, in which the backlight will be mounted.

Therefore, the frame of this very second tier must be fastened through drywall to the upper level guides. And for this, they must be located exactly in the place where the guide will pass, forming a box with illumination.

With two parallel guides running across the longitudinal profiles of the main ceiling, there will be no problems: they will be screwed to them in increments of 400 or 600 mm (this is the distance we maintained between the axes). But with the fastening of the other two guides it will be more difficult if there is no longitudinal profile above them.

The conclusion suggests itself: either this profile must be laid specifically at the stage of installation of the main frame, or the second level should be designed based on an existing structure.

In principle, there is nothing to worry about if you forgot about the mortgage. The longitudinal profiles are located close enough to each other, which allows you to choose any of them as the base.

Installation of the box frame with a niche for lighting

Sew up the main ceiling with drywall sheets, after which you can proceed to further steps. To do, you first need to markup.

• First, make marks on the walls, stepping back from the main ceiling to the height of the future box, and connect them with a horizontal line.
• Then mark the perimeter of the box on the ceiling, stepping back from the walls to the desired distance. The resulting figure should be a regular rectangle.

Attention! You can give marks on the ceiling at the same distance from the walls only when you are sure that they are perfectly even and the room has right angles. Otherwise, the markup is done using a square.

Benefits of LED lighting

In the photo - plasterboard ceiling lighting

So:

• Installation led strip presents no difficulty.

Note. The reverse side is equipped with double-sided tape.

• Power consumption is minimal compared to other light sources, and the brightness is sufficient for backlighting.
• LED lighting plasterboard ceiling will be inexpensive, and the service life is quite long.
• Some tapes are covered with silicone insulation, powered by 12 V, which allows them to be used in rooms with high humidity.

• LED strips are produced with a different number of LEDs per meter (30, 60 or 120), with a gradation of colors and shades, which makes it possible to solve any problem.
• In addition to monochrome (single-color), there are RGB - tapes that can change the color of the glow.

• Plasterboard ceiling lighting using LED strips is easily controlled using special controllers. It is also possible to use the remote control and various programmable automation devices.

Mounting the backlight

Now, as promised, let's talk more about installing hidden light sources. What do we need for this?

• Firstly, LED strip, which can have different power, be single-color or change color.
• Secondly- a power supply that converts the voltage in the 220 V socket necessary for the operation of the 12 V LEDs. Thirdly, elementary skills in working with electrical wiring and network.

Attention! Before making connections, make sure that the wires are de-energized, otherwise you risk getting a shock. electric shock, the probability of which is much higher, due to the fact that the current conducts metal carcass. Also, in this way you will warn yourself against a possible short circuit.

Determination of the total power of the LED strip

After you have chosen the type of LED strip, you need to determine how much power it needs in order to choose a power supply. To do this, measure the perimeter of the niche prepared for installing the backlight, and multiply it by the power of one running meter ribbons.

Now you know what the power of the power supply should be, through which the LED strip is connected to a 220 V network. But here you need to consider the following points:

• It is not recommended to connect LED strips to the power supply in series for more than 5 meters, because due to the increase in resistance in the circuit, the LEDs at the end of the strip will shine dimmer.
• The higher the power of the power supply, the larger its dimensions. Keep this in mind when you make a side to mask the backlight. Or purchase a separate power supply for each tape.
• A powerful power supply, and the tape itself needs an effective removal of the generated heat. For the power supply, it is recommended to build ventilation grill, and the tape is glued to the profile, which plays the role of an effective heat sink.

Installation and connection of the LED strip

Luminous tapes are sold in reels of 5 meters. On the reverse side of each tape there is an adhesive base, which allows you to mount it on both horizontal and vertical surfaces.

Therefore, when making do-it-yourself plasterboard ceilings with lighting, you can use both a shelf in a niche and the inner wall of the side to mount the LEDs. But again, we repeat - it is better to glue on the metal, which will significantly increase the life of the LEDs.

Before attaching the tapes, connect them to the power supply as follows:

The diagram shows the connection of a multi-color RGB strip through the corresponding controller, so you can see 4 wires from the power supply. If you use a monochrome light source, then the controller is removed from the circuit, and there will be only two wires: plus and minus.

Attention! All open solderings and other connections must be well insulated.

Place the power supply in the drywall niche where the wires come out and connect it to the mains. Then do a test run. If everything works, then the assembly of the box can be continued.

Position the power supply so that you can remove it after the ceiling is assembled. This is very important for the repair and maintenance of the light system.

Sometimes in the process of repairing an apartment, very interesting ideas how to decorate the ceiling. Some of them are related to lighting. Often, designers or even homeowners themselves decide that a ceiling illuminated around the perimeter would look very attractive. And to realize this idea, you need an LED strip.

Why do you need backlight

Ceiling lighting with LEDs is now one of the most commonly used design solutions. If you decide to transform the rooms in your house thoroughly, then she will help you do it with the greatest effect.

On a note! The first experiments with LED lighting began in the not so distant 70s of the twentieth century - it was then that the LEDs themselves appeared on the market. But at that time they were not yet of such a quality that would allow them to be used in residential premises in order to organize lighting, as they irritated the eyes.

Previously, only sconces were used as additional lighting or illumination in the rooms, later spotlights appeared. However, it is LEDs that have proven to be the most good option installation of hidden lighting - after all, you don’t always want the light sources to be in full view. In addition, LEDs make it possible to realize extremely interesting options lighting, and not only additional, but also the main one.

What is the advantage of LED ceiling lighting?

1. It allows you to implement the idea of ​​​​hidden lighting - a light source, that is, an LED strip, is laid in such a way that it is not visible to a person, but at the same time it gives a lot of light and creates a luminous aura in the room.
2. It is easy to mount such a backlight yourself.
3. LED lighting in certain cases can act as the main light source.
4. This is an opportunity to realize the most daring fantasies and design solutions regarding the play of light and color.
5. The backlight can be not only white or yellow - LED strips are available in various color variations.
6. In addition to LEDs, fiber optics can also be used - an excellent "conductor" of light, which significantly expands the possibilities of organizing backlighting.
7. LEDs consume little electricity during operation, which means they are economical.
8. Due to the backlight, you can clearly distinguish between zones in the room, if necessary.
9. Finally, the backlight can perform the usual decorative role.

Prices for ceiling lights

ceiling lamps

LED ceiling lighting has its drawbacks. There are not many of them, but it is worth knowing about them if you plan to install it in your apartment.

1. Not always the use of colored backlight is a plus. Sometimes such lighting can irritate the eyes. Therefore, it will be great if during installation you provide for the possibility of changing the colors of the backlight.
2. LEDs are not cheap, but they are cheaper to maintain due to low power consumption.

The service life of the LED is quite long. Some manufacturers claim that this little light bulb can last up to 100,000 hours. But this figure is not to be trusted. The fact is that over time, the LED strip begins to shine not so brightly. The service life of this lighting element is the period from the beginning of its commissioning until the moment when its luminous flux decreases by 30%.

LED strip prices

LED Strip Light

On a note! If you use LED lighting for no more than 6 hours a day, then the tape will work properly for about 10,000 hours. That is, the human eye will notice a decrease in the brightness of the glow no earlier than after 4 years of this mode of operation of the LED strip.

Types of backlight

There are several types of lighting that can be equipped indoors.

Table. Types of lighting for the ceiling.

View	Description
	Gives a gentle beautiful diffused light. The ceiling, as it were, is illuminated from below along the perimeter, the contour. In this case, the LED strip is located on a special shelf (at the lower level in the prepared recess), and the light from it falls on the ceiling surface. A continuous luminous strip is formed.
	The LEDs in this case will be installed on the slope, which is located between two ceiling levels, shining as if along ceiling surface.
	This is a ceiling covering with the effect of "starry sky". LED light bulbs installed in finishing material. One of the most difficult types of organization of ceiling lighting, as it will require a lot of time.
	LEDs are installed in small shades that will be mounted in the finished ceiling. Light bulbs are installed in several pieces, one, for example, shines down, several others create "rays" on the surface of the ceiling.

Also, the backlight is divided into:

• target;
• general purpose;
• design.

The first type is the installation of lighting in order to distinguish between certain areas in the room. Simply put, in this case, the backlight is used to zone the room. For example, in the kitchen more can be lit work zone- additional light here will not hurt.

General purpose lighting is conventional lighting. True, most often it is implemented not at the expense of LEDs, but with the help of spotlights. Although there is an option when the LED strip can turn into a full-fledged lamp - this is.

Luminous ceiling can be installed in any room. For manufacturing, an LED strip, a stretch translucent fabric is required. The tape is attached to the draft ceiling and hidden under tension material. As a result, when the light is turned on, we will get a completely luminous ceiling above our heads.

Attention! Installing this ceiling is not as easy as it seems. In order for the light to flow evenly, it is very important to correctly calculate the distance from the tape to the canvas. If you make a mistake with this parameter, then the ceiling will “stripe”.

Usually a luminous stretch ceiling is combined with plasterboard edging. A small cornice is made of this material around the perimeter of the room, and a backlight with a canvas is placed between its sides.

And finally, the design version of the ceiling lighting. Such lighting will not give a lot of light, but it will make the room cozy and complete. Such lighting can just be attributed to the illumination around the perimeter of the room, and the creation of luminous patterns on the ceiling.

Patterns are created on the same principle as a luminous ceiling. Only the LED strip is placed in the form of the desired pattern, and not all over the draft ceiling. When the switch is pressed, the light will penetrate through the translucent stretch fabric and create the same figure on the ceiling surface that is made of LEDs.

By the way, ceiling lighting does not have to be white. It can be one-color decorative, and multi-colored RGB, that is, shimmer with red, green, blue and other shades. Colored lighting, if it matches the color of the bulbs to the style of the interior and general view room, will look very good around the perimeter of the room, both with the main light on and in the dark.

Choosing materials

So, you have firmly decided to make ceiling lighting in one of the rooms at home. It does not matter which one - colored, white, or even decided on a luminous ceiling. But in any case, you need to visit a hardware store where you buy the necessary materials.

The most important element is a luminous ribbon. It is LED and duralight. Duralight is a cord, inside of which there is a mass of small light bulbs, diode or incandescent. He is not afraid of water, very durable and flexible. Duralight can be installed on any surface. Its main drawback is a weak glow.

On a note! Duralight is a very durable light element. The fact is that the cavities inside the cord between the bulbs are filled with polyvinyl chloride, which gives it additional density.

An LED strip is a thin and flexible board, where LEDs are located at an equal distance from each other.

Its main advantages:

• possibility of installation on any surface;
• low level of electricity consumption;
• high brightness;
• ease of installation.

On a note! Sometimes other types of lamps, such as neon, are also used to mount ceiling lighting. But they are too large in size and will not allow you to create beautiful decorative designs.

Prices for LED lamps

LED lamp

It is the LED strip, due to its advantages, that is usually used for mounting such decorative lighting.

And it is important to know how to choose the right part of the future lighting.

1. First, decide what color your backlight will be. This is an important aspect, not only because the shade of light should match the interior, but also because certain colors, whatever one may say, affect the human psyche.

Table. The effect of flowers on the human condition.

Color	Impact
Red	Irritating, but at the same time exciting color. It is not advised to use for people with increased irritability.
Blue	It alerts, adjusts to a working mood, makes a person collected.
yellow blue	Can cause hysteria.
Blue, marine, turquoise	Sets for reflection, pacifies.
Green, yellow green	Soothes.
Orange, yellow	Neutral, does not cause special feelings.

It is best to choose a ribbon that has several color variations and a controller. Thus, you can choose exactly the shade that you like at the moment according to your mood. And in your normal state, you can turn on the white light.

1. Look at the density of the light bulbs. It happens 30, 60, 120 pieces per meter. Experts advise taking a tape with 60 or 120 diodes for contour lighting, but for directional lighting, a 30-diode tape is best suited.
2. Decide on the power of the tape - according to this indicator, they are also different. For directional lighting, buy a 5 W / m model, and for contour lighting it is better to take a larger one - 8 W / m. To save on controllers (buy cheaper ones), 5 and 7 watt tapes are placed on the slopes, and 7 and 14 watts on the shelf. To determine the power of the tape, its marking will help, which has an alphabetic and numeric code, for example, SMD 3028. The first two digits will be the power value.
3. It is also important to evaluate the total power of the tape, which is calculated along the entire length. Having calculated how many meters of tape you will need in total, multiply this number by the power of 1 meter. Based on the parameter obtained, select the controller power for the tape.

By the way, look carefully at how the tape flashes. Illumination of this kind can also have a psychedelic effect due to this parameter. Avoid tapes that flicker at 0.5 Hz, 2 Hz, and 7 Hz. They can cause epilepsy.

Attention! If you want to get a flickering backlight, then choose a controller to achieve this effect, which will make the diodes fade in and out smoothly.

So, to install the ceiling lighting you will need:

• LED strip in the required quantity;
• PVC corner (you will glue the tape on it);
• power unit;
• cornice, drywall (if your ceiling does not yet have slopes and shelves for placing lighting);
• network cable;
• controller;
• connectors for connecting pieces of tape.

This is the main list necessary materials. Depending on how you plan to mount the ceiling lights, you may need other items.

On a note! During installation, the LED strip usually does not need additional adhesive material - as a rule, it is already equipped with an adhesive layer. But cheap tapes usually stick to it poorly. It is better to choose a more expensive, but high-quality material.

Installing perimeter lighting

Step-by-step instructions for creating a simple contour LED ceiling lighting.

Step 1. In the niche where the LED backlight will be located, fasten it around the perimeter to small screws plastic corner. The fact is that the sticky layer of the tape is in good contact with PVC, but it can peel off from drywall. So do not neglect this stage of setting the backlight.

Step 2 Using a tape measure, measure the required lengths of the LED strip and cut it into pieces equal to the sides of the perimeter rectangle that you will highlight. Cut the tape only at the cut points marked on it, otherwise it will not burn.

Step 3 You can connect the segments using connectors, but it is better to solder - it will be more reliable. Solder contacts according to the principle - plus with plus, minus with minus. By the way, remember that it is impossible to combine too many tapes into one whole - they are usually produced in reels of 3-5 meters. So - more than three bobbins are not assembled in one design. If the tape turned out to be more, then its segments are connected to the power supply in parallel.

Chandelier prices

Attention! The LED strip can be bent, but only if the angle is less than 90 degrees.

Step 4 Remove the wires from the system that will be needed to connect the controller and power supply. Connect the system first to the controller, and connect it to the power supply. Check system performance.

Step 5 Remove the adhesive layer from the tape and attach it to the previously mounted PVC corner. The backlight is ready.

Another option is to install an LED strip in the ceiling cornice.

A few words about soldering: LED strip does not like high temperatures, so the soldering time should not be more than 10 seconds, and the melting temperature should not be more than 160 degrees.

Video - Installation of LED backlight

starry sky

The starry sky ceiling is a real hit, which is becoming more popular and is increasingly being used for the design of the ceiling surface. It can be made from fiber optics and using LEDs. Let's consider the second option. The main difference from the installation of the previous backlight is that this time you will need individual LEDs, and not a tape.

Step 1. This step is performed even before sheathing the ceiling frame with drywall. In the sheets of this material, make a lot of small holes in a chaotic manner.

Step 2 Connect (solder) with wires all the diodes into one circuit. Check it for functionality.

Step 3 Install an LED in each of the drywall holes. It is best to choose light bulbs of different power - then you can create a more realistic starry sky.

On a note! Many stars cannot be created in this way - as a rule, fiber optics are needed for the appearance of real galaxies in the sky.

Step 4 Fasten the drywall to the ceiling frame as you normally would.

Step 5 Connect the system to the controller and power supply. The backlight in the form of a starry sky is ready.

Such a system also has a drawback - the LEDs glow very brightly, so it will not be possible to obtain diffused starlight. Alternatively, you can try experimenting with light diffusers.

Ceiling lighting is undoubtedly one of the best options to decorate a room. And almost anyone can handle the installation of LED strip. The main thing is a little desire and patience, and you will succeed.

Many are familiar with the expression: "Repair never ends!" This expression is especially true for those who live in their home all their lives. But residents of apartments at least once in their lives have to deal with this thankless task. You can’t get away from this - no one wants to “live in a hut” or be known as a retrograde. And in construction and decoration, new materials, designs and solutions appear every day. It makes sense to consider in detail how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting and betray original design apartment.

Finishing ceilings with plasterboard - it's profitable

There are many modern ways turning the ceiling into a work of art. This and suspension systems, And stretch ceiling, and special plastic panels, And ceiling tiles styrofoam , And metal constructions. And yet the plasterboard ceiling is still in demand. Why?

The first and main reason is the relative cheapness of this method. During construction and repair, many people have to count every penny. And the ceiling of gypsum sheets will save a little.

Another positive: suspended structure will hide all the shortcomings of the old ceiling, as well as wires, ventilation casings, pipes, etc. objects that spoil the design of the room.

The third plus can be considered the uniformity of the texture of the walls and ceiling. If the walls are finished with plasterboard, it is logical to sheathe the ceiling with them. You just need to buy a little more material. In addition, the ceiling can be made both simple and unique. There is nothing holding back the flight of fancy in this method, except for the contents of your wallet.

It is also important that any man who knows how to use a building level and a screwdriver is able to mount a two-level suspended ceiling from plasterboard with backlighting on their own. Of course, you will have to seriously dig into the Internet in search of information, ask friends for help and find a few days free from your main work. But the result is worth it.

First you need to draw or find a photo of the ceiling you like on the Internet. Measure the ceiling and draw some drawings. A two-level plasterboard ceiling with backlight is a rather complex design and it will not work to make it “by eye”. Separately, draw a diagram of the location of the main and spotlights, determine the type of illumination between the levels. The most common, but other light sources can be used.

Photo of beautiful two-level ceilings

classic niche

Wave

sinuous lines

star shaped

Curvilinear design

Two-level ceiling from GVL

Neon lighting

Painted with a niche

sinuous lines

Oval

classic ceiling

Rectilinear niche option

We make an exquisite ceiling with our own hands

If you have experience in construction industry, tools and free time, you can try yourself as a professional finisher. It is difficult to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting with your own hands, but it is quite within the power of every craftsman who is not afraid of dirty work. In the sense - dusty, because gypsum leaves behind a lot of dust.

It’s better to take “just enough”: in any locality, materials for such ceilings are higher than the roof and you can buy them, if not enough, at any time. But where to put the leftovers after repairs in a small apartment is a big question! And it’s a pity to throw it away - money doesn’t lie on the road, and there is nowhere to put it. However, everyone must decide this issue on their own.

There are several leaders in the production of products and materials from gypsum:

• Knauf. The company occupies a leading position in our market, and throughout the world. Drywall and everything for finishing with this material. Time-tested quality. Among the range - arched plasterboard with a thickness of 6.5 mm. An excellent choice for creating curved lines of a two-level ceiling.
• A company from Scandinavia, "obsessed" with environmental friendliness. Their products are in high demand all over the world. Many products are more expensive than those of its German competitor.
• Lafarge Group. The Polish company scattered its factories around the world. European quality products at quite affordable prices. In our market, it is not as well known as Knauf. She was the first to establish the production of GKL with a semicircular chamfer on all four sides of the sheet.
• OJSC "Gypsum" The only Russian enterprise whose product quality corresponds to the European level, and the range of goods is wide and varied. Based in Volgograd. Products with the Volma logo can be seen at all construction sites in our country.

As for accessories. The most famous and expensive in our market are from Knauf and Gyproc. Most of the other manufacturers are small private Russian factories. So there will be no problems with the acquisition. The same rich selection of accessories - from expensive to luxurious - for lighting installation.

Materials and tools that will be useful during installation

A two-level do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling with lighting will require a lot of materials and tools. If there are drawings with dimensions, the approximate amount of a particular material is easy to calculate. You will need sheets of ceiling drywall 9.5 mm, a sheet of arched drywall 6.5 mm to finish the winding lines of transition levels. If the 2nd level is straight, it makes no sense to buy arched drywall.

In addition, you need a primer and putty on gypsum, self-adhesive tape (serpyanka) for sealing joints, damper tape to improve sound insulation. The metal frame is mounted from ceiling guide profiles (PNP), ceiling profiles (PP), arched profiles, direct suspensions, single-level suspensions (crab). For fasteners, anchor wedges are used, for metal 3.5 by 9.5 black (“seeds” in the jargon of the masters) or white PSh, as well as black drywall screws.

All this can not be mounted with a hammer and screwdriver. Therefore, you need to prepare or buy the necessary tools. In addition to the above, you will need a laser and bubble level, metal scissors, a hacksaw with fine teeth, a coloring cord (chopping), a tape measure, a clerical knife for cutting drywall, a planer, an emery cloth or a paint mesh, a screwdriver, a perforator, spatulas of different widths for puttying the finished ceiling .

Don't forget about lighting. Two-level plasterboard ceilings with lighting, in addition to the central chandelier, must be equipped with duralight or neon lamps. In addition, you can add spotlights with a voltage of 220 volts both on the first and second levels of the ceiling. Their choice is huge and a simple enumeration will not do anything. Everything is decided by a specific choice of style and design of the ceiling structure.

Mounting the frame of a two-level ceiling is not an easy task for a beginner

There are two ways to install a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting . The first way is easier and more understandable for a non-professional. The second one is longer and more labor intensive. But everyone has freedom of choice. Consider the first method in more detail ...

With this method devices for a two-level ceiling from GVL first, the frame of the first level is mounted. It is a horizontal crate of metal profiles, on which drywall will be attached.

Something like this should look like the crate of the ceiling of the first level

A frame drawing is made, dimensions are affixed. A standard GKL sheet has a width of 1200 mm. To create a structure with good rigidity, 3 ceiling profiles per sheet are sufficient, i.e. the distance between the centers of the longitudinal PPs is 60 cm.

First, guide profiles (PNP) are mounted. On the walls, using a laser level, marks are placed at a distance of 6-7 cm from the ceiling. These marks are connected by a line using a long rule or a masking cord (beats). Do not forget to stick a damper tape on the back of the profile; it will serve as additional soundproofing for the room. A profile is attached to the line from above, holes for its fastening are marked. Holes are drilled in the wall with a puncher, then the profile is attached to the dowel-nails. The easiest part of the installation phase is ready.

Then lines of longitudinal ceiling profiles (PP) are applied to the ceiling. Try to clearly maintain a distance of 60 cm. The width of rooms is rarely a multiple of 60, so the indentation from opposite walls is calculated approximately the same; there is one for each room. On the drawn lines, every 60 cm we make perpendicular marks. These are the attachment points for direct suspensions. Suspensions are attached to the ceiling with dowel-nails or wedge anchors. The choice depends on the design of the old ceiling. The ends of the hangers are pulled down.

The longitudinal profile is inserted into the guide at one end. The second end is fixed with a nearby direct suspension. The correctness of fasteners is controlled laser level or long rule. To fix the parts, PSh self-tapping screws are used, as well as “seeds” - black screws for metal. After that, the profile is fixed along the entire length in straight hangers and a guide profile.

This operation is repeated for all longitudinal profiles. If the length of the PP is not enough, it is lengthened with longitudinal connector and piece of PP of the desired length.

Longitudinal PP on the ceiling

It remains to mount the cross bars. Their length is 1 cm less than the distance between the longitudinal profiles. They are fastened with single-level connectors (crab) at intervals of 50 cm. This is done so that the edge of the drywall sheet - and its length is a multiple of 50 - falls in the middle of the transverse profile for ease and reliability of fastening. All connections are fixed with self-tapping screws. The result should be a design, as in the photo above. Then the wiring is installed. Be sure to place the wires in a corrugated non-flammable pipe. We make loops in the places where spotlights or chandeliers are placed.

In order to avoid the penetration of screws, it is forbidden to lay sales inside the metal profiles!

The resulting crate is sheathed with drywall. For fastening, black self-tapping screws with a fine thread pitch 4-5 cm long are used. The distance between the self-tapping screws is taken equal to 20 cm, the distance to the edge of the sheet is 2 cm. This will protect the sheet from destruction. The caps of the self-tapping screws are slightly recessed into the surface, later they are masked with plaster.

If the sheet has to be cut into pieces, an edge is made on the cut off part with a planer or a sharp knife. Then the cut must be cleaned with sandpaper.

The seams of the first level pass through a rough layer of plaster using. This completes the first stage of installation of a two-level ceiling with plasterboard lighting.

The beginning of the second stage is identical to the beginning of the first. We retreat down the wall 12-15 cm. Why so many? Once the ceiling is made with illumination, then this is just right: the height of the side that obscures the light source + the ability to stick your hand into the niche to replace the burnt element.

Scheme of the device of the second level of the ceiling with a niche for lighting

So, below the ceiling along the walls we make marks, connect with lines and mount the guide profiles. If the second level is planned around the entire perimeter of the room, the guides go along all the walls. If this is a diagonal, then the profile is attached only in those places where the second level adjoins the wall.

The second level of the ceiling is usually curvilinear. To create smooth bends, it is best to use an arched profile. But most "masters" prefer to save. They cut triangles on the sides of the ceiling or guide profile as often as possible and bend it according to the pattern. The drawing is best applied to the ceiling of the first level. This line is repeated, stepping back from the future edge of the second level 10-15 cm deep. This distance may be less if you use LED strip or duralight in lighting. Here will be the fastening of this level to the first.

We cut pieces of the ceiling profile 12-15 cm long (level height). These pieces will replace straight hangers. Along the inner winding line, we bend and mount an arched profile or a rugged guide profile on the ceiling. We attach pieces-suspensions to it. We connect their lower edge with the PNP, fixed on the wall, using PP segments. The length of these segments should be equal to the distance from the wall to the outer, extreme winding line of the future level. If the length of such segments is more than 60 cm, it is recommended to make transverse inserts from single-level connectors and PP segments.

Try to make the design as rigid as possible. The final touch will be the edging of the protruding PP with a guide profile with cut sidewalls. It is bent so that, when viewed from below, the line of this profile repeats the curves of the pattern on the ceiling. The resulting edging is fixed with self-tapping screws. The frame is ready.

Corrugated electrical wiring on the ceiling

Wiring is installed similarly to the first level. The location of the spotlights is marked in black on the ceiling.

Sheathing the resulting frame with drywall will be the next step. A flat surface is sheathed as described above for the first level. The edges are sawn along the bend line. The problem will be to sheathe the end of the second level. There are two proven ways to do this:

1. A strip of drywall on the inside is pricked with a spiked roller or the tip of a knife. Then the surface is moistened with water using a sponge or cloth. Moisture impregnates the gypsum and the strip is applied to the profile. They bend it slowly and carefully, fixing it in stages to the profile with self-tapping screws.
2. The inside of the strip is cut in a V-shape to the outer cardboard at small intervals. In this case, the strip will repeat the profile bend. But this method is good only for small sections along the length.

Next, the drywall is primed, a rough and finishing layer of putty is applied using spatulas. Holes are cut for spotlights, an LED strip is attached to the niche, others. The contacts are well insulated and hidden. The surface is painted in the selected colors. Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling with do-it-yourself lighting is ready.

Frame drawings of a two-level ceiling with a niche

Let us consider in detail the various schemes for the device of drywall flows with a backlight device in one and two levels.

What you need to remember while working

Installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting will not be an impossible task if you follow a few rules.

1. You need to believe in yourself :).
2. Carefully develop sketches and drawings of the future ceiling, starting from the marking of the frame of each level and ending with the location of each lamp. Make sure that the lamps do not coincide with the crate.
3. Choose quality-tested materials that will serve you for decades.
4. Do not rush. Start the next stage of work only after completing the previous one.
5. If problems arise, carefully review the entire available material to choose the simplest and most effective way to eliminate it.
6. Feel free to use the help of friends. It is almost impossible for one to cope with such work without experience.
7. It is advisable to entrust the work with electrical wiring to a professional.

If all of the above doesn't intimidate you, then good luck! In addition, watch the video on the installation of ceilings.

Currently, one of the most common types in the field of ceiling decoration is a plasterboard ceiling with lighting. In this article you can find all the instructions for finishing such ceilings, which will help anyone on their own, with their own hands, get a beautiful design solution for the ceiling, as the first glance of visitors to your home is initially on the ceiling and this is what will make the first impression on your guests.

In appearance, these plasterboard ceilings seem to be complex structures, but if you look closely, you can say with confidence that there will be no difficulties in their designs and even a beginner can assemble a plasterboard ceiling.

If you follow all the instructions and carefully follow, then you will get an effective backlit.

In general, taking into account the design and location of the fixtures, there are two main groups of plasterboard ceilings:

The first version of plasterboard ceilings is a very simple design. You can make a special hole in the plasterboard ceiling and build a lamp into it, or simply hang these lamps from it. Both options are very simple and effective.

The only thing to consider if you choose this option is that the weight of your fixtures must not exceed 10 kg. This is due to the not very high bearing capacity frame and cladding plasterboard ceilings.

But things are different if you decide to choose the design of plasterboard ceilings with hidden lighting. This method involves placing lamps between two layers of plasterboard ceiling, in niches specially provided for this.

In this case, the light of the lamps is directed not down, but to the ceiling. On the ceiling, the light reflects and illuminates the entire room, giving your room an irresistible effect.

In order to decorate a plasterboard ceiling with lighting, it is first of all recommended to think about the optimal lamps for lighting fixtures. In such designs, LED or fluorescent lamps are mainly used. This article will talk about the option with LEDs, as today it is the most common.

The main advantages of LED ceiling lights are their reasonable price, practicality, and the fact that they provide a high level of illumination. Compared to other lighting sources, the energy efficiency of LEDs exceeds 50%. Installation LED lamps very simple.

These fixtures are attached to the drywall with self-adhesive tapes. Besides, modern market equipped with such illuminators, which have special control units, with which you can remotely control the illumination of the room.

The modern market provides an opportunity to choose lighting fixture, based on several LED strips on a self-adhesive basis. They can be distinguished by the following parameters:

From a design point of view, the color of the LED lighting on the strip also plays a very important role. In general, single-color ribbons are very common, but in addition to them, you can also find RGB ribbons that are able to change color. If you decide to install an RGB tape, then you should consider that with it you will need to purchase a special controller that will adjust the brightness of the glow.

In order to start, you will need to start by marking the ceiling and assembling the frame. In this case, it is used metallic profile for the frame, as in any suspended plasterboard ceilings.

We mark about 100 mm from the ceiling and draw a center line around the entire perimeter of the room. This line will later define the level of the ceiling. It will be necessary to take into account that this line must be strictly horizontal. To do this, you need to use the building level.

After that, along these lines we attach the initial profile to the wall. Next, we attach the hangers to the ceiling, and fix the frame to these hangers. This frame for a plasterboard ceiling will then need to be securely fixed with connectors -<<крабов>>, as well as self-tapping screws. Upon completion, it will be necessary to sheathe sheets of drywall. This is the main stage of the base false ceiling.

Further, in order to arrange a special place for fixing the backlight, it will be necessary to arrange the second stage of our ceiling design. The first thing to do is to define the border of the second line on the already constructed ceiling.

We mark approximately 40-60 mm from the marking line, which is the width of the cornice and after that we fix the UD profile to our already finished first ceiling. Every 50 cm we make segments on the main profile. This length will be equal to the height of the second sheet of our ceiling.

We take these suspensions and fix them with self-tapping screws. The UD-profile is also fixed with self-tapping screws from the underside. It turns out the frame is already the second ceiling, where the main plasterboard profiles are inserted, which connect these two levels of ceilings into a single whole.

After that, we get special holes on the sides, where it will be possible to equip the backlight connections. Upon completion, we fix the second frame with drywall.

If the size of the cornice (protrusion of drywall outside the frame) is small, then you can mask it with an LED strip, attaching it around the perimeter of the ledge.

In order to eliminate all dents and damage during operation, it is possible to produce putty, which can also hide the joints between drywall sheets. Putty can be done both before installing the backlight, and after that. In any case, the installation of lighting fixtures is not a complex structure and does not require any violation of the integrity of the ceiling.

The final stage of this whole design is the installation of lighting on a plasterboard ceiling. To do this, you should be attentive to some points, such as the correct cutting of the tape. LED strip, for example, is produced 5 meters long in special coils.

Cuts on this tape will only need to be made at specially marked places on the tape. If you took a single-color tape, then its sections are connected by contacts<<+>> and<<->>. But if you have an RGB tape, then its V + pins of the same name are connected to<>, <> and<>.

It should be noted that if more than three coils are connected, which is about 15 meters, it is not very safe, since in this case the power will be large and the conductive paths may not withstand.

But if in any case you need to take more than 15 meters, then in this case you should arrange the connections in parallel. It should be noted that all tape connections must be made observing the polarity of the tape. To connect the cord, we connect it to the L and N pins on the power supply.

And if you have an RGB tape, then you should arrange the connections observing the polarity. You will need to check the voltage of the tape with the power supply and controller. It is necessary to check in test mode and if everything is in order, then it will be possible to stick it in its place.

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