Crafts from stones can be made from a variety of pebbles: construction, ordinary street, sea.

They go well with shells, pasta and other materials, but even in a pure stone version, the craft will look original and interesting. And you can take stones of different sizes and shapes, and most importantly, colors to create it.

By the way, if you have multi-colored stones, you can combine them so that you don’t even have to paint the craft.

bottle of stones

An ordinary wine bottle can be turned into an original piece of decor if you decorate it with thin pebbles.

However, if there are certain skills and sharp tools, existing stones can be cut into thin plates, and even shaped.

In addition, multi-colored natural material does not even need to be painted, but even if you need colors that are not there, you can apply paint to the stones and get a beautiful one.

.

For example, gouache...

It will not be waterproof, but if the craft will decorate the interior, you can opt for it.

What will be required:

• wine bottle;
• plasticine gray color;
• thin plates of stones or bulk stones;
• beads;
• rhinestones.

So, first we take a bottle, we clean it well from dirt and dust. Of course, we remove the label in advance and the layer of glue that could remain on the surface.

You can use stone crafts both in the interior and in landscape design. After all, such beauty does not require much effort and spending money!

Lately I've noticed a craving for logic games. However, many individual games take up a lot of space. We will make a multifunctional board for checkers games.

Let's get started.

To make the board, we will need:

• cutting boards;
• Glue;
• Gas-burner;
• die;
• Drill;
• Glue;
• Paper;
• Stationery knife;
• A printer;
• dowels;
• Metal ruff;
• Dye;
• Acrylic lacquer;
• Sandpaper.

We assemble a shield from scraps of boards on dowels.

We mark the contours of our field. We cut.

We pass (not very carefully) with sandpaper the corners and the field.

After that, we burn our workpiece with a burner.

You can go the other way, but burnt wood is more suitable for my interior.

We pass with a metal brush until the structure is revealed and the desired shade is obtained.

We make chips in the same way, driving a beam through a die of a suitable size with a drill.

Then we cut the resulting cylinder into separate chips. Chips are necessary in my case at least 64 pieces. We skin our checkers, and burn them on one side.

Having printed on the printer, cut out the stencils.

We fill the markings on the fields with paint.

I prefer water soluble, because it dries faster, and after half an hour you can continue to work.

Now we open our board and chip with acrylic varnish.

The moment has come when we can safely use this product.

On such a board, you can play: checkers, reversi, go, 5 in a row, tic-tac-toe, corners, a bunch of all kinds of other checker-type games, and I would like to highlight the game abalone (a very interesting tactical-logical game, I recommend it IMHO).

Now you are not afraid of long winter evenings, and this board will be very useful for you during your summer holidays.

A good set of Go game significantly raises the level of the game. This seemingly strange feature of Go is easily explained.
In Go we spend 90% of our time contemplating the position and analyzing it. At the same time, the activity of the brain, which literally consumes all visual information, is as high as ever.
In order to effectively make decisions in Go, one cannot be in a state of permanent concentration. Usually human body can concentrate for about 15-20 minutes. After that comes an irresistible desire to relax. Therefore, Go masters constantly alternate periods of concentration and relaxation in order not to get tired. Relaxation takes up to 30-40% of the total time allocated for the game.
When a player constantly sees low-quality counter-stones and a scratched board with crooked, untidy lines in front of him, his brain spends its resources on extinguishing an unpleasant impression. The natural human desire for beauty and harmony is inherent in nature. Beauty is the external characteristic of health and quality. So, a rotting fruit or fruit looks unpleasant. I don't want to get close to him. Studies have shown that elementary improvements in working conditions significantly increase efficiency. Seriously these problems are discussed in ergonomics. In the East, this science is called Feng Shui or the art of harmonious organization of space.
A player who plays on a bad or ugly set cannot relax and therefore plays badly. Moreover, he does not enjoy the process of the game, and this is very important. It is known that if a person does something without pleasure, i. without return, the product of his labor is almost always of poor quality and even harmful. Because it contains the negative emanations of the worker who created it. It is known that in poorly built houses of an ugly shape or surrounded by ugly things, a person begins to become depressed. He can get sick and even die.

A set of brown glazed stones (sprinkling) in a stone bowl.
Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). China

Therefore, to play Go, it is necessary to use only high-quality sets that meet the standards. Fortunately, quality standards exist, and they have been in effect for centuries.
Don't be afraid of what good equipment it costs expensive. This is wrong. Kits are different. Of course, it is impossible to get a good, high-quality kit for less than $50-$100. After all, this equipment is not produced in Russia. Anything that will cost less is most likely either a low-quality product from China, or some kind of fraud.
In this article we will tell you about what kits are, what are their differences and what features they have.
It is the duty of the club to know the history of every kit it has.
When contacting a club to purchase a kit, ask to be shown the best kit available. It doesn't matter how much it costs. You should see what kits the club director has. If he has nothing more than $100, then most likely, everything he will offer you is a low-quality product. A serious club always has a premium set from $1000 in its stock. The director of the club, who has never held such a kit in his hands, will not be able to teach you anything good either. So he is not familiar with the roots of Go culture.
You can also often hear the following words: "I'll buy a worse kit, see if I like the game or not, and then I'll buy a better one." It is possible that you will never buy yourself a better kit, because you get tired of the game and do not understand its charm. Having played on a bad set, you will very quickly get tired of wasting time on the next low-grade domino checkers.
When you come to the club for a purchase, be sure to talk to the director about which countries he has been to and where he buys equipment and kits. Find out who his suppliers are, whether he knows the go masters of China, Japan and Korea. Ask to see his photos. You must see where the director of the club you want to leave a large amount of money studied. Be careful when buying a kit.
Classic Go sets are made only in three countries: Japan, Korea and China. China is the origin of the game. Here you can find the most exquisite and unique sets that are sure to surprise you. Japan is the pinnacle of standard and quality. Unique kits can cost up to $500,000. Not everyone can afford equipment from Japan. These are status kits. Korea is a country of democracy in Asia. Sets from Korea are modest, but tasteful. Usually they make up the main range of equipment in clubs in Europe and Russia. Korean standard is popular in Europe. These are kits for a variety of people.

Chinese kits

Kit from China. The board is a single piece of kaya, the bowls are ebony, stylization under the Qing dynasty, stones - black and white agate. Fan with the motto "Sun", Japan.

China is a special country. Here you can buy a breathtaking fake of a genuine set, and of high quality, or you can find a set for 1 yuan, which will hurt to look at. wooden bowls and flat stones carved from an unknown type of limestone. It is impossible to find out the nature of these stones from the Chinese. The elite Chinese set includes a thick board made of solid noble wood. This is either Kaya or other breeds unknown in Russia. The bowls will be made of noble wood or antique. Stones are usually either agate or handmade jasper. There is also machine processing of stones.
There are also rare sets in China. So the head of the Go Culture Club "Ascension" Igor Grishin saw Go bowls for $5,000 in China. This is unthinkable money for the Chinese. The seller didn't even want to consider lowering the price. It really was a special set with history. Such unique items can still be bought in China. In Russia, in a private collection, there is a set of stones from the Ming era (16th century), which is completely unusual and stunning in its beauty and shape.

Boards

The board that you buy in Russia will most likely be brought from China. This is the main supplier of inexpensive boards to our country. A classic Chinese board (up to 2.5 cm thick) is either glued bamboo veneer or bamboo veneered wood. Also rarely come across solid boards or glued together from two or three bars. Sometimes you can find antique boards. Usually it is dark wood or dark veneer and gold lining. All thin boards are lined with silkscreen, i.e. machine. The sizes of Chinese boards vary, usually they are larger than Korean and Japanese ones, since Chinese flat stones are slightly wider in diameter than their counterparts from neighboring countries. On the reverse side of the Chinese board, you can often see the markings for Chinese chess - xiangqi. Very rarely come across boards with European chess. The disadvantage of laminated bamboo boards is that they can crack in the drier Russian climate. In this respect, boards simply veneered with bamboo are more beautiful and more reliable.
Elite boards are usually 5 cm thick and thicker. There are glued from two pieces, and there are from a single piece of wood. Whole, of course, more expensive Tree species are different. Basically it's a kaya. There are heavy boards (5-7 kg each), there are light ones. Color range from golden (kaya) to greenish. Not sold separately without stones. Dividing is usually done by hand.
How to determine if you have a manual line? It is enough to carefully study the structure of the lines on the board. If the lines are thin and the star points are barely visible, then this is a sure sign of hand-ruled. Also, if you study the edge of the board, then when manually lining up, the start of the line will be visible. Sometimes the lines go beyond the extreme line. This is not the case with machine cutting. An important indicator of the quality of the board is the thickness of the star point. The thinner the dots, the more expensive the board.
Elite boards are always one-sided, i.e. there are no xiangqi or other markings on their back side. Sometimes the board is signed by a high-level Go master.
The Chinese rarely tint their boards, usually the texture of the wood is visible through a clear varnish. It is beautiful.
The Chinese do not know how to make boards with legs or gobans. All of them are of terrible quality, the lines are crooked and blurry.
There is a newfangled trend in China to make gobans from veneered chipboard or pieces of glued wood. Often the legs are screwed into such a goban with screws. Such "products" of the Chinese industry are best avoided. This is a low-quality fake, aimed at an inexperienced European consumer. A Chinese will never buy such a “set” for himself, and a master who respects himself and his school will not sell it to you.
It is very difficult to buy a board in China on your own. The level of marriage in Chinese factories is extremely high. Almost all boards come with marriage. Therefore, it is better to purchase a selected board in Moscow. At the very least, you can be sure that you actually have a top quality board in your house. Moscow clubs value their reputation.

stones

The stones in China are usually flat, which is different from the lenticular Japanese and Korean stones. Ancient Chinese stones were made in the form of a pyramid-cone. In the course of history, the stones "thinned" and in our time they began to be made completely flat.
The cheapest stones in China are made of plastic. Such stones are not imported to Russia. The next stage is pressed stone chips. Such stones can sometimes be found in our country. Next are stones carved from some kind of limestone. The highest quality flat stones are stones carved from insu (this is the name of this type of stone in China). Distinctive feature insu - black stones in the light are dark green, and white stones are slightly beige.

Flat Chinese stones in wooden bowls, PRC

All flat stones from China smell of either acetone or some other industrial smell. Before use, they should be washed in a bowl with powder or soda.
The Chinese make stones and glass. They come in a variety of fun colors, from light green to burgundy. They are also flat.
Elite Chinese stones are made from semi-precious rocks such as jasper (jade), agate, lapis lazuli, aventurine, mother-of-pearl and others.

Lapis lazuli and aventurine, China

The imperial sets exhibited in Gugun contain stones made of dark green and white (the most expensive) jade. There are also sets made of agate. They are flat. The set of Emperor Qin Shi Huang Di consists of wide flat stones of white and green jade in bowls different sizes. The bowl for dark stones is much larger than the bowl for white stones. The most ancient stones, made in the form of pyramids, are made of agate and jasper.
Sets of stones from jasper, which is known in Russia as jade, come in different standards. Usually the stones are lenticular in shape. Jasper is called yu in Chinese.

A scattering of light stones from a jasper set, China

On one side, the top of the stone is ground off so that it does not move on the board. Jasper happens different shades. Standards are popular: light green and black, light green and dark green. Jasper stones are very beautiful, sometimes simply bewitchingly beautiful. The texture of the stone, veins and crevices are clearly visible on them. Jade is pleasant to the hands and does not irritate the eye. It is also very beneficial for human health. This is a warm set.

A scattering of stones from an agate set, China

Agate stones (in Chinese - manou) amaze anyone who sees them for the first time. This is a luxurious set. Good agate stones come in clear water or with gaps, which is especially loved by the Chinese. Color varies. Agate can be transparent (these are light stones) or milky. Dark stones are both black and dark gold. All stones are usually slightly uneven, sliding in the hands and on the board. It takes skill to play them. In their inconvenience lies a hint of the special and skillfulness of their owner. Also in martial arts, the master must do all the techniques with perfect posture, which is difficult.
There are sets of agate with small stones - this is machine processing. Agate stones are usually irregular in shape tending to a lenticular pattern.
There are original sets, for example, red and green agate or light beige and dark gold.

Stones: red and green agate, China
Bowls: Ebony, Qing Dynasty
Ascension club collection

Shell stones. The Chinese learned how to sharpen white stones from shells like the Japanese. Black ones are made from some strange stone with a greenish tint. The thickness of the shells varies, we will talk about it in the section of Japanese sets. In general, Chinese shell stones make a weak impression. They are made of poor quality. This is due, apparently, to the foreignness of the standard.
The stones are not sold separately from the bowls.

bowls

Chinese bowls come in different qualities and different forms. Straw bowls are very popular in China. They usually store sets of insu.

Wicker bowls, China
Stones: Korean faience

There is a special Chinese standard for bowls that differs in shape from the Japanese standard. Because Chinese rules order not to take prisoners, then the lids of the bowls are always flat. Only modern bowls began to be made with notches in the lids, as in Japanese bowls. Ancient sets convey to us intricate shapes of bowls. For example, the imperial set in Gugun is represented by bowls with special handles on the lids.
The standards and shapes of bowls in China varied from dynasty to dynasty. The bowls of the last Qin dynasty look very harmonious, the lids of which look like drops.

Four Seasons of Qi bowls, handicraft, Qing Dynasty
Stones: selected agate, China

Simple bowls are made from various types of wood, while elite bowls are made from either ebony or kaya. Sometimes the problem with simple bowls is that the lids dry out in the Russian climate. Elite sets are not subject to such metamorphoses.
There are unique examples of bowls made from a single piece of bamboo or a piece of stone.

Solid stone bowl with graphics
Stones: collection of sets from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644)
Private collection, Russia

Bowl from a bamboo stem, carving, 20th c. PRC
Stones: selected agate

Bowls: red lacquer, classical carving, PRC
Stones: selected agate

Fans

The fan is an accessory of the master. Fans are different. I haven't come across Chinese fans yet.

Japanese kits

Go game set with samurai coat of arms, 17th-19th century, Japan.
The stones are white and red agate.

Japan, since the 17th century, dictates the style in Go. Japanese kits, by definition, are not bad. This is impossible. A curious historical detail is the fact that the Japanese faced a difficult problem: they could not find identical materials for kits in order to completely copy the Chinese standards. In Japan, there is neither jasper nor agate. For this reason, Japanese craftsmen began to carve stones from shells and basalt.
The white shell of Hamaguri from the Hyuga shallows repeats the stains and stripes of agate. Black basalt is similar to black jasper. Stone standards in Japan have changed. The Japanese have always tried to carve as thick stones as possible, imitating Chinese sets. Sometimes the material for stones was bought abroad.
In the art of making tables for the game - gobans, Japanese masters surpassed everyone. The Chinese have never paid attention to the blackboard. A stump or stone could serve as a playing field, on which silk or leather with board markings were spread. The main thing in Chinese sets is stones and bowls. The Japanese, on the other hand, have focused on making amazing boards.
The Japanese belief in Go is the envy of all Go masters from all over the world. In beauty and grace, they surpass any analogues. The Chinese fan has always been large and bulky. Japanese fans are very small, almost invisible. The higher the level of the master, the smaller his fan.

Boards

Japanese gobans are always of excellent quality. You can distinguish a good goban from a fake by the sound of hitting the surface of a stone board. The sound from setting the stone should be deep, soft, melodic. If the goban is thick, then the sound will be high, if thin, then low.
All Japanese boards are lined by hand. On expensive gobans, the lines are cut with a katana. This is an ancient tradition.

The master marks the surface of the board with a katana

Plain boards from Japan are usually foldable. And they themselves are glued from the bars of some noble tree.

Board from a beech bilateral, folding, Japan.

Japanese boards are always of high quality. And they are not cheap. It is impossible to buy a Japanese goban in Moscow. Goban can be ordered through a club director who has direct links to Japanese Go clubs. This operation will cost several thousand conventional units, and it will last for several months. Any goban brought from Japan immediately becomes a legend and acquires many stories. Ordering a goban is an adventure.
Elite boards and gobans are usually signed by a high-level Go master.

Takemiya Masaki (9th dan) signs the goban.

The goban has a special recess on the bottom side, it is made so that the goban does not lead from time to time and changes in humidity. In Japan, they say this: "My grandfather sawed wood, my father dried it, I made goban."
The most expensive gobans in Japan are made from 700-year-old kaya. It's almost impossible to buy them.

stones

The Japanese standard for stones is black and white. Due to the poverty of natural materials in Japan, such a radical variant of colors was established in Go.
Classical Japanese stones are carved from the shells of the Hamaguri clam from the Hyuga shallows and black basalt. However, for several decades the Japanese Go stone industry has been buying shells in Mexico, as the Japanese mollusk has become unsuitable due to environmental changes for turning stones from it.

Hamaguri shell from Hyuga Shoal.
Ascension club collection

All modern inexpensive shell and basalt stone sets are made from Mexican shell.
Stone standards vary.
The main varieties of stones are two varieties: yuki (snow) and hana (flower). The yuca variety is distinguished by more frequent and thin stripes. In stones of the Khan variety, the stripes are rare and thick.

Variety "Snow", on the left and variety "Flower"

There are three main gradations of stones in thickness and three gradations in quality.

Stone thickness options The most expensive are the fattest (up to $370,000)

The stones presented in the figures with a thickness of more than 37 mm are made only from Japanese shells. Usually these are antique sets and their cost is tens and hundreds of thousands of dollars.

bowls

Japanese bowls differ in shape from Chinese ones. They are more round. Lids in Japanese bowls with a notch for captive stones. Usually, mountain chestnut, kaya, walnut and other valuable tree species are used as material for bowls. The most expensive bowls are made from mulberry wood.

Japanese kaya bowls on a mahogany stand.
The stones are shell and basalt.
Private collection, Russia.

All bowls and boards come in special wooden boxes. It's branded Japanese style. Even Go diplomas are issued in obligatory wooden boxes.

Japanese classic set for Go

Mountain chestnut bowls, Japan.
Stones - Mexican shell and basalt, Japan

Fans

Go fan, Japan

Japanese fans are the most common both in Russia and in Europe. Usually these are either fans from tournaments, signed by professionals, or themed Go fans, made to order for a particular Go master.

Mikhail Emelyanov, teacher at the School of Go "Ascension", Assistant to the President of the Go Federation, 2006

Probably, many people thought about how to make a goban at home with minimal cost effort, money, and time. There are actually a lot of options, an impromptu goban can be made from anything, for example, from a piece of old linoleum, plywood, cardboard. But,
such gobans do not look very aesthetically pleasing, moreover, they are short-lived. Despite the fact that I am the happy owner of a board bought back in the times of the USSR, which, by the way, is perfectly preserved, I still have an obsession with making the goban myself. Unfortunately, I do not know when I will have enough time to implement this idea, but I have already decided on the goban manufacturing technology for myself and offer it to your attention.

So let's start with a list necessary tools and materials. I advise you to prepare everything in advance, so that later you do not run around the apartment in search of the most elementary tools and do not come up with a new use for household items.

Materials and tools needed for work:

1. MDF fibreboard.

Dry-process fibreboard: MDF (MDF - medium density fiberboard) is a material with a uniform internal structure that allows milling without chipping, hairiness, opening of internal pores and grinding with sufficient surface quality of the product. MDF boards are widely used for the manufacture of furniture parts, especially furniture embossed facades..

2. Colorless varnish of good quality. You should not save on varnish, it is better to buy a small jar of expensive varnish containing polyurethane.
3. Foam brushes or a small foam roller.
4. Small skin "zero".
5. Sharp construction knife.
6. Long metal ruler. A second T-ruler will also help a lot.
7. Pencil, eraser.
8. High-quality permanent black marker pen thickness 0.5mm.
9. Hairdryer.

Project for the production of works (PPR)

1. Cut out a board of the required size from our MDF board. Recommend cut circular saw- then the cuts will be even and smooth. If you plan to cut with a jigsaw, then I have to disappoint you - no matter how hard you try, the edges of the board will be uneven. Some craftsmen advise temporarily attaching a guide bar to stop the jigsaw, but this option is not suitable for us for two reasons: firstly, we do not want to spoil the board with the bar fasteners (there will be traces of the screws), and secondly, even if we fix the bar - the saw cut will still turn out to be uneven, since the course of the jigsaw file is several millimeters, and on a thin board such an error will be striking.

2. The cut blank for our goban must be carefully sanded. For sanding, we use the smallest skin "zero". To avoid too strong removal of fibers in places of pressure with your fingers - fix the skin on a small even block, or on a special grinding block. I like it when the edges of the board are sharp, so we will not process them with a file, for the same reason we only sand the end sides of the workpiece with a bar!

3. We prime the workpiece with the first layer of varnish. I repeat, we do not save on varnish, we always make sure that the varnish is with polyurethane. For a primer layer, it is advisable to add a little white spirit to the varnish - this will make the varnish more liquid and it will better saturate the board. Lacquer should be applied with a foam brush or roller. If you use a regular brush, the hairs will inevitably get on the surface of the board. If small bubbles form on the surface of the board when applying varnish, this should not scare you, the bubbles should theoretically disappear on their own, but I recommend that you dry the board a little after painting with a regular hair dryer.

4. Apply the mesh to the goban blank. To do this, with a sharpened pencil, we draw the first line along the entire perimeter of the board (we get a square). Be sure to check the corners - they must be strictly 90 degrees! The formulas proposed by Filin on the forum will help us correctly determine the size of the sides of the square Kido:

Horizontal size: 18 cells wide (d+1mm), plus (0.7d) per side

Final formula:
L horizontal=18(d+1)+0.7(d+1)+0.7(d+1)=19.4(d+1)

Vertical size: the same as horizontal, but add 3 mm already (the goban should be slightly elongated to create a visual effect of an even square)

Final formula:
Lvert.=18(d+3)+0.7(d+3)+0.7(d+3)=19.4(d+3)

d - stone diameter (measured with a caliper)

After drawing the first line, we apply all the rest, carefully monitoring the dimensions. When all the lines are drawn with a pencil, we need to outline them with a black marker (pen thickness 0.5mm). Wipe inaccuracies, errors of lines drawn with a marker with a sharp construction knife. After drawing the lines, do not forget to mark the star points, for this it is best to use a stencil ruler. The diameter of the dot should be within 2-3 mm, otherwise it will look too large.

5. After drawing a grid and star points with a marker, you must repeat the procedure
applying varnish 2-3 more times, each layer of varnish must be thoroughly dried. Dry the workpiece in a dry, dust-free place.

6. These are approximately the gobans obtained if you follow the above instructions:

In addition to the article, see:

Thinking and Winning: Go Game for Beginners Grishin Igor Alekseevich

CLASSIC GO BOARD SIZES

Figure 16-1

Diameter of dots of star points (hoshi) on the board: 3–4 mm. Line thickness: 0.7–1.0 mm.

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