Correct hammer handle. How to put a hammer on the handle: a step-by-step process. Hand carved hammer handle

Good health, gentlemen steampunkers!

We drive the wedge with a hammer, after lubricating it with PVA glue.




The result of the work done. The advantage of such an assembly of the tool is obvious, firstly, it does not dry out, and secondly, it acts as a shock absorber during operation.


Ax assembled by the method described above. The rubber seal is clearly visible.




The method has been tested over the years, the grandfather’s ax, after the restoration of the handle, served well for many years ... when it already fell into my hands, I poured my vision-attitude towards the tool into it and changed the handle, now it looks like this.






I restored this hammer, the head was self-made and very unsuccessful - the hole for the handle was very small and narrow, I had to expand it, the metal was very difficult to process and I decided to use the old method, using a strip of rubber from an auto camera as a sealant ...


The red seal is not rubber, it is a cap matched to the diameter of the handle of a small hammer, I don’t know what it is made of, but it is elastic, the assembly method is the same.




Some of these hammers are still waiting for their turn to be upgraded with a rubber product…
Good luck in your work!
Keep your instrument in perfect order, love it and it will answer you on the fingers
And finally, instructions for use ... I advise you to read it, it's fun.

What do a sledgehammer, an ax and a hammer have in common? Operating principle. To strike, they need a swing. Therefore, a handle is needed, and the heavier the tool, the longer it is, as a rule.
During the swing, centrifugal force acts on the metal part of the instrument, which tends to tear it off the handle. Moreover, this force is greater, the more massive the head and the longer the handle of an ax, sledgehammer or hammer.
Traditionally, to strengthen the head on the handle, a wooden wedge is driven into its end after planting the metal part. Sometimes one or two smaller metal wedges are driven in at an angle to the main wedge.
But there are alternative ways to securely fasten the parts of the above tools relative to each other. Below we consider and practically implement one of them.

We put the hammer on the handle without a wedge using rubber

The handle can be purchased at a hardware store or made yourself from hardwoods, which include: oak, birch, maple, mountain ash, beech, ash, dogwood and others. When choosing, you should only pay attention to the end of the workpiece and stop at the one in which the annual rings are located longitudinally, and not transversely. Such a handle will be stronger and last longer.
It is believed that the slot on the handle for driving a wedge weakens it. If you use rubber for a reliable attachment of the hammer head to the handle, then there is no weakening, since there is no need for a wedge mount, and hence for a slot.

It is necessary to prepare the handle blank for the nozzle. To do this, we adjust the side with a smaller section to fit the hole in the head with a carpenter's knife, a wood file or an emery wheel. The landing part of the handle should freely enter the head hole without tension and correspond to it in length.
Next, we cut out a strip from a bicycle chamber or any elastic rubber, which should provide a girth of the seat of the handle with a certain gap in length, and have a margin in both directions of about 1 cm in width.

We lubricate the rubber surface on the outside with lithol to facilitate the nozzle process.

To do this, hit the opposite end of the handle on a stable surface. It is best if it is a massive wooden chock.

After making sure that the hammer head was in place, we remove the squeezed out excess lithol with a rag and cut off the ends of the rubber on both sides of the hammer head with a sharp knife, so to speak, flush.

Then we carefully cover the mating points of the mounting hole of the hammer and the handle with glue (PVA, "Moment" or something similar). We do this, on the one hand, in order to strengthen the connection, but mainly so that moisture does not penetrate into the connection between the hammer head and the handle. After all, water, once in an unprotected gap, can eventually cause wood rotting and metal oxidation, which will inevitably lead to weakening of the fastening and failure of the tool.

What else is the advantage of such a landing of the handle in the head of the hammer? The presence of a rubber layer between the parts of the tool, as it were, isolates the handle from the head and the force of impact of the striker against another hard surface is extinguished and the hand does not experience all the energy of hard and sharp contact.

All of the above can be repeated one to one, both with an ax and a sledgehammer. Glue, of course, can bounce in places over time, so you have to restore it. The handle can be burned with a blowtorch or gas burner and then wiped well with a rag. This will give the handle a noble look and ease of use.

In custody

Grease of mineral origin, which includes lithol, has a bad effect on rubber over time and it begins to break down. It is better to replace it with thick soap jelly. It also makes the nozzle lighter, but after the water evaporates, it loses its sliding properties and further strengthens the connection.
To seal joints, instead of PVA and other adhesives that harden and become brittle, it is preferable to use silicone sealant, which always remains ductile and less prone to cracking.

Since the attachment of a hammer, ax or sledgehammer with rubber requires significant effort, the opposite end of the handle should be strengthened for the duration of the attachment by wrapping it around with a clamp and tightening it tightly. The clamp can be replaced with construction tape or vinyl tape, tightly wrapping the handle in several layers.
Also, instead of rubber, you can use a tube of galvanized sheet with a seam seam, which is put on the handle and inserted into the hammer hole. Further, as usual: a few blows and all the parts take their places, and very firmly and reliably.

Absolutely not every modern person will be able to put a hammer on the handle. It would seem simple, but when doing such work, most home craftsmen have some problems. This is due to the fact that in order to maintain tools in a normal state, it is necessary to regularly encounter them and understand the principle of their construction.

Today, there are hammers on the construction market, the handle of which is made of metal or synthetic materials and, accordingly, there is no need to stick it. However, along with modern instruments it is not uncommon to use traditional hammers with a wooden handle.

Why is it necessary to fit the handle?

The popularity of wooden handles is due not only to their cheapness. Wood is a lightweight material, and for hammers this is an extremely important parameter. The handle should have a light mass, and his head should be weighty. This is necessary to increase the impact force. Using homemade wooden holders, a person has the opportunity to customize the instrument depending on their anthropometric features, taking into account the thickness of the handle, its length and other dimensions.

For normal operation, the tools must be kept in perfect order. This is especially necessary if you have to use the tools quite often. To drive in a few nails a couple of times a year, you can also use a bad hammer with a cracked handle. However, if the hammer is the most essential tool to work, it must be maintained in excellent condition. If the tool is not in proper condition, then you risk not only injuring yourself, but also harming others if its shock part jumps off.

It is important to note that on dangling tools this happens quite often, not only due to wear of the material, but also due to improper fit of the impact part on the holder. In addition, the wood used as a handle is of particular importance.

What wood material is used for the hammer handle?

First of all, it is necessary to exclude the type of wood that easily splits and cracks. These include spruce, pine, aspen, alder, etc. At the same time, it is recommended to use hornbeam, maple, mountain ash, dogwood, ash, oak, beech or birch as a handle for metalwork steel hammers.

Before turning wood the material must be pre-dried, since the hammer must be worn exclusively on dry wood.

This is due to the fact that in the process of drying, any material decreases in size, water evaporates and its volume decreases. If an insufficiently dried handle is used when landing a hammer, then over time it will dry out, will constantly dangle and subside.

Video "How to make a hammer that does not fly off"

Hammer handle shape selection

According to GOST, 3 forms are used to make a holder for a hammer. However, the master can perform other ergonomically convenient forms of handles at his discretion. This is often practiced in self-manufacturing handles, but how correctly one of the GOST options is taken as the basis.

When making holders, it is important to take into account the fact that the size of the workpiece must be longer than what is needed in the end. The maximum margin is about 5 cm. Basically, the handle should taper towards the end that faces the impact part of the instrument.

Hammer handle process

Often the size of the opening of the head of the hammers at the top and bottom entrance is slightly wider than in the middle. Thus, the dimensions of the workpiece for the handle in the thin end part must correspond to the dimensions of the holes in the middle of the impact part of the tool. It is imperative to check that the hole for the handle on the striker is well done with a tool. You can see how this is done in the photo.

It shows the striker of an old hammer, which needs some preliminary processing. Without these works, it will be impossible to complete the attachment of the handle. Paying attention to the picture, we can see that the ebb of the striker was made quite poorly, there are large influxes of metal and irregularities, each entrance to the holes on both sides differs by 6-8 mm than in the middle of the striker.

To correct all defects and irregularities, it is necessary to process the inside and outside of the hammer head with a file. Then you need to insert the thin end of the handle into the bottom hole of the hammer to fit all the dimensions correctly. The tip of the handle should be flush with the opposite side of the striker. If the thickness of the handle is greater than the corresponding holes, then it must be processed with sandpaper In the way that the element was inserted into the hammer hole with a certain tightness.

Due to the fact that at the end of the handle we achieve a gentle cone, then with more deep dive into the hammer head, it will be pulled more tightly. It is worth noting that in the process of this it is important to take into account that the striker on the handle is without distortions, but is installed at a right angle.

To hammer the handle into the hole of the striker, it is necessary to hit it with the back side in a vertical position on the anvil, workbench tabletop, etc.

Due to its weight, the impact part of the hammer will slowly fit on the expanding cone of the handle under the influence of its own weight. At the same time, it is strongly not recommended to stuff with hammers or hard objects on the back of the handle, as this will lead to its split. This method can only be used when fitting a non-metallic shock part (wooden or plastic), for example, for a mallet.

After the hammer head is firmly planted, and the movement of the handle in the impact part will no longer be observed, it is necessary to saw off the protruding part with a hacksaw blade, having previously retreated half a centimeter above the impact heads. That is why it is necessary to use a longer workpiece.

Hammer handle wedge

Often purchased hammers have incorrectly clogged wedges. Basically, a metal plate is hammered in the center of the longitudinal axes at the end of the handle. Because of this, after a short time, loosening and loosening of the handle in the hole of the striker occurs. To avoid this, it is necessary to make a notch on the back of the handle, the depth of which will be about 0.5 cm. For this, you can use a narrow chisel. The notch must be made so that it is located not along, but across the entire length of the end. If done incorrectly, then in the process of clogging the wedge, the handle may split. It is important that the wedges enter the handle tightly, slowly pushing the wood layer apart.

For wedges, it is recommended to remove the same type of wood from which the handle itself is made. The dimensions of the Wedge are about 2-3 mm thick and about 1.5 cm wide, it all depends on the size of the hammer. In this case, the wedge should not be long, a maximum of about 4-5 cm, otherwise it will simply break in the process of driving it into the handle. The front of the wedge must be sharpened at an obtuse angle. Before hammering the wedge, it must be lubricated. The use of silicone sealant is recommended as a lubricant. Thanks to this substance, it will not only be easily immersed in wood, but also securely fixed in the handle.

After the client has been hammered, the protruding end of the handle must be sawn off again In the way that protrusion of the hammer head was no more than 2-3 mm.

In the case of using dry wood for the handle, it will be enough to drive in one wedge, but if the material is softer, then it is recommended to drive in a second, but already a metal wedge. Its width and thickness should be the same as that of a wooden one, but the length should not exceed 2 cm.

The wedges are driven in completely flush with the back of the handle. After all the basic work has been completed, it is necessary to finish the handle with large and small types of sandpaper. After that, the handle of the tool is impregnated with drying oil and varnished. Do not use paint to cover.

The method of fitting the handle on the hammer described above is quite reliable. There is nothing complicated here. Having made the nozzle according to all the rules, you will forget about hammering nails into the handle and screwing in screws, which is often practiced by many craftsmen to avoid hanging the handle during work.

Video "How to put a hammer on"

So that during operation it does not fly off the handle, but sits on it securely and firmly, it is enough just once to correctly put it on the handle.

Lever

First, about the dimensions: the hammer handle should be oval in section, from 250 to 350 mm long, gradually tapering towards the end on which the hammer head is mounted.

The wood of birch, beech, oak, ash, maple, hornbeam or mountain ash is best suited for making handles. It is completely unacceptable to manufacture handles for a hammer from species with easily prickly wood: pine, spruce, aspen or alder.

Hammers with metal and plastic handles are now on sale. They do not have the problem of putting the head on the handle at all, but for some reason I prefer hammers with wooden handles. They are warmer to the touch, and in the hand they sit more reliably and more comfortably.

Most often, hammer handles are made from birch wood. If the handle is carved by you from a thick birch branch, it must be dried in a warm, shady and well-ventilated place.

Do not try to dry wood using artificial heat sources: electric fireplaces, heaters, radiators. With such drying, the tree inevitably cracks and loses its strength.

If the wooden handle for the hammer is not sufficiently dried, over time it will dry out and decrease in volume, and the head will hang on it, constantly threatening to fly off the tool handle.

Attaching the hammer head to the handle

Insert the thin end of the handle into the hole in the hammer head. The ideal would be to fit the head on the handle with a certain effort, or, as the masters say, "with an interference fit."

If the handle turned out to be thick, treat its thin end first with a rasp and then with sandpaper. As a result, the end of the handle should be a gentle cone. Having screwed the hammer head onto the handle, make sure that it is strictly perpendicular to the center line of the handle.

Holding the handle vertically, with the head of the hammer up, strike it with the back wide end on a hard surface from top to bottom. With each stroke, the tool head will slowly but surely sit on the expanding handle, hardening more and more on it.

The immobility of the head during subsequent blows will indicate that it has “sat” firmly enough on the handle.

Hammer handle wedge

Prepare a place for a wooden wedge. To prevent the wedge from going to the side and ruining the handle, make a notch about 5 mm deep with a narrow chisel at an angle of 30 0 to the longitudinal axis of the hammer.

A wooden wedge is a blade about 3 mm thick, about 15 mm wide and 30 to 50 mm long. The wedge should taper smoothly towards the front, but its end should be blunt.

After the wooden wedge is hammered into the handle by about 15-20 mm, with a fine-toothed hacksaw, saw off the upper part of the handle sticking out of the hammer head so that it protrudes 2-3 mm beyond the head.

Cut the second wedge from a strip of metal, the same shape and size as the wooden one, but much shorter, no more than 20 mm long.

Hammer it into the handle at the same angle of 30 0 to the longitudinal axis of the hammer, but on the other side of the center line.

After the complete, "flush", hammering of the metal wedge into the hammer handle, the work on the arrangement of the hammer can be considered completed.

Good luck to you! May you succeed!

All wooden handles on hand tool, I make from well-dried birch, including for hammers. For hammers weighing 300-400 grams, a blank of a rectangular bar, 350 millimeters long, with sides 40x30, is enough. Measure the inner throat of the hammer head. After finishing, you should get a bar with sides of approximately 35x25. On one side of the bar, mark the center (with lines from corner to corner). Build a rectangle around this center with sides equal to the hole on the hammer in width and height. Drive the ribs and planes of the bar with a planer from the back of the future handle to the sides of the rectangle drawn on the end. Chamfer the corners and round them off. Using sandpaper, fit the front edge of the handle to the size of the hole in the hammer so that it comes into tension.

The lines on the end of the handle that we drew to build the rectangle will now become marks for the place of the wedges. Take a chisel and make notches on them, so that the notches do not reach the edge of the handle closer than 5 mm, otherwise the wedges can split the handle.

We drive in wedges crosswise - first wooden and then iron. I use resinous pine for a wooden wedge, it sticks well to a birch handle.

None paints and varnishes I do not use for impregnation. I don't feel comfortable when the handle slides. A new handle mounted on a hammer, including its end parts, is impregnated a couple of times with clean engine oil, with drying a day between layers. The handle of such a hammer does not absorb water, even when left in the rain, the hand does not freeze from it in the cold season, and as a kind of aesthetic addition, it has a beautiful amber color - this staining color of birch is obtained from oil.