Interior arrangement of the bath, how to create comfort inside. Interior design of the bath: arrangement options How to equip a room for a bath

Everyone perceives the dacha in different ways, for some it is a way to relax after a working day in the garden, for others it is an occasion to gather with friends, for others it is just a Saturday tradition. But in any case, a bath in the country is a real miracle that every summer resident dreams of. Therefore, this article is devoted to how to make this dream come true, i.e. build your own bathroom.

Bath design

The first step towards the realization of this dream is the creation of a bath project. It depends on him what the bath will be, so it is necessary to approach this stage very responsibly.

The project must contain the following information:

• Building dimensions;
• layout;
• Location of doors and windows;
• Structural features of the structure;
• What materials will the building be built from?

If you can build a bath with your own hands, then it is better to entrust the implementation of the project to professionals. True, you can use a ready-made project that best suits your wishes.

You can find some of these projects on our building portal. However, before giving preference to any of them, you should think in advance what kind of bath you want to see on your site. It can be a small building with a washing room, a dressing room and a steam room for one or two people, or vice versa, a whole bath complex in the country, which may include, etc.

Design nuances

To avoid mistakes during the design of the bath, the following points must be considered:

• In order for the steam room to be convenient and comfortable, you need to plan it correctly. According to experts, the area of ​​a steam room for 2-3 people should be about 10 square meters.
• The height of the steam room should be 2-2.2 m. A lower ceiling is inconvenient, and a higher one leads to wasted energy and longer heating of the room.
• Windows and doors should preferably be small. In addition, a high threshold should be set, although this will create some inconvenience, it will seriously reduce heat loss.
• When performing the interior decoration of the steam room, resinous wood should not be used.

Advice!
If you bought a plot for a summer residence without buildings, then this does not mean that it will not come to the construction of a bath soon.
Country houses from block containers are a great way to equip the site.
After installing such a house, which happens very quickly, you can take your time and do it.

Place for a bath

Also at the design stage, before you make a bath in the country, you should carefully consider its location on the site. Best Option there will be its construction near the reservoir, which will allow you to plunge after the steam room in cool water.

In addition, it is desirable that the bath is not visible from neighboring areas or the street. If it is impossible to withstand such a condition, then it is possible to artificially make a green fence from shrubs and trees.

materials

Any building materials are suitable for the construction of a bath, however, a bath built of timber or logs is considered traditional. I must say that the choice largely depends on the budget of the project, since the price different materials may differ significantly.

Since the process of building a wooden building is fundamentally different from building a brick building, we will further consider both options.

Construction of a bath from a bar

Foundation

As with any other construction, the construction of a bath from a bar begins with a foundation. Since the structure will be relatively light, the foundation can be made columnar, provided that the ground is solid.

The foundation is done as follows:

• The first step is to prepare the construction site for further work. To do this, remove debris and remove the top layer of soil.
• Then markings are applied to the soil surface in accordance with the project. All dimensions of the future structure must be double-checked several times in order to avoid mistakes.

In the photo - a columnar foundation

• Further on the corners of the building and at the junction internal walls to the outside, pits should be dug to a depth of about 30 cm. The diameter should correspond to the size of concrete blocks or flat stones that will be used as pillars.
• After that, the same pits are made for the posts, on which the lags will rest.
• Then the bottom of the pits should be covered with a layer of sand about 10 cm thick and carefully compacted.
• Next, blocks or stones are laid, which should rise 25-30 cm above the soil surface. At the same time, it is important to ensure correct location pillars - the surface of the foundation should be located in the same horizontal plane.
• At the end of the work, the surface of the blocks is covered waterproofing material. Most often, ruberoid is used for these purposes.

erection of the box

After the foundation is ready, you can start building walls.

The instructions for doing this work are as follows:

• The erection of walls begins with the laying of the first crown of timber 20x20 cm. Before laying it, the timber must be treated with an antiseptic and resin, which will ensure its safety for a long time. Before fixing the beam, you should make sure that its location is horizontal.
• To fasten the timber, it is necessary to make a tenon-groove connection, which can be made with a conventional saw, as shown in the diagram. In addition, metal corners and self-tapping screws can be used to strengthen the structure.
• After laying the first crown, the floor lag is installed. The traditional option their insertion into the beam of the first crown is considered, however, this significantly complicates their replacement, which will be needed sooner or later. Therefore, it is more expedient to attach the logs to the first crown using metal corners and self-tapping screws.
• Internal wall beams can be cut into external walls using a tenon-and-groove connection.

• Next, heat-insulating material (tow) is laid on the first crown and the second row is mounted from a bar 150x150 mm, also treated with an antiseptic. The connection of the crowns with each other is carried out with the help of spikes (dowels). To do this, a hole is drilled through the upper crown to the middle of the lower crown and a spike is inserted. Installation of dowels is carried out in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from each other.
• After the walls are erected, window and door openings are cut with a chainsaw.
• After that, floor beams are laid, and installed rafter system in accordance with the design of the building.
• The final step is the installation roofing material and laying the floor. After that, the arrangement of the bath in the country is carried out, which we will discuss below.

This completes the main stage of work.

Construction of a bath from bricks or blocks

Foundation

The construction of a brick bath in a country house also begins with the construction of a foundation. Since the building will be heavy, the foundation must be solid.

You can execute it like this:

• As in the first case, you first need to prepare and mark the site.
• Further along the perimeter of the outer walls, trenches are dug to a depth below the level of soil freezing. The width of the trenches depends on the thickness of the walls.
• Further, a sand cushion 15 cm thick is laid on the bottom.
• After that, the formwork is installed and reinforcement with steel bars is performed. As a rule, reinforcement is a metal frame made of reinforcement, fastened together with wire.

• After that, the formwork is poured with concrete. At this stage, it is necessary to ensure the horizontal level of the foundation.

An important point in the construction of the foundation is the preparation of concrete, since the strength of the structure depends on it. To prepare high-quality concrete, you will need the following ingredients:

All components must be thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

erection of the box

After 28 days, when the concrete has gained strength, you can continue to build a bath in the country.

The work is done in the following order:

• As in the first case, before the walls are erected, the foundation is waterproofed with a roofing material.
• Next, bricks or blocks are laid on a cement-sand mortar. When laying each row, it is necessary to check the horizontal position of its location using the building level.
• In accordance with the project, at the stage of erecting walls, it is necessary to provide window and door openings. A jumper must be laid over each opening. As a rule, concrete beams are used for this.
• After the walls are erected, the floor beams are laid and the roof truss system is performed.

On that, the construction of the box is completed.

Bath arrangement

So, the building is ready, now it remains to figure out how to equip a bathhouse in the country. Of course, doors and windows should be installed first. Then you need to pay attention to the steam room.

Arrangement is carried out as follows:

• First of all, logs are laid and a wooden floor made of resin-free wood is laid.
• Next, insulation is performed, especially if the building is built of brick or blocks. To do this, slats are nailed to the walls, between which mineral mats are fixed, after which foil insulation is mounted. Then the walls are sewn up with linden clapboard.

• The next step is to make shelves from linden or abash. Shelves are stuffed from hotel rails, between which there should be a distance of several millimeters.
• The final stage of work is the implementation of lighting. For the steam room it is necessary to use special sealed lighting. In this case, the switches must be located outside it.

Advice!
If there is no electricity in the country house, then renting a diesel generator for the country house will help solve the problem of power supply.

After the steam room is ready, you should purchase equipment for a bath in the country. The most important element is the stove-heater. Of course, it can be laid out of brick, but this is quite a difficult job, so it's easier and safer to buy a finished product.

As for the arrangement of the rest of the premises, the interior of the bath in the country depends on individual preferences. Most often, the bath is decorated in the Russian style, however, you can use more modern options.

Conclusion

A bath in the country is available to almost every summer resident, so it is quite possible to build it yourself. The most important thing in this case is to strictly observe the technology at each stage of construction in order to avoid mistakes. The result of such work will be a comfortable and safe steam room that will delight its owners for many years.

Bath is an amazing place for relaxation and recuperation. Therefore, it should be not only hot, but also comfortable. Each owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article, we bring to your attention some tips on how to equip, interior decoration which is no less important stage than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bath yourself, then this article will come in handy for you. Here you will find both professional instructions for different types of finishes, and step by step photos important finishing work, and detailed videos that will help you solve your tasks at the highest level. Our advice will help you not to deviate from the principles of building technology when cladding, sheathing, etc.

Finishing inside the bath is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bath, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bath and its medicinal properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

A modern Russian bath involves the presence of several rooms:

• vestibule;
• steam room;
• washing.

If you have built a large bath, then it is quite possible to equip an additional relaxation room, a billiard room, a kitchen area, a playground, a pool and much more in it. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bath, equipped with everything that you think is necessary and useful. However, this does not affect the basic defining requirements for the bath:

• all rooms should have an attractive and practical design;
• in the steam room there should be hot and pleasant steam;
• in the washing should be comfortable and safe.

Finish renders big influence on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior decoration, it still needs to be done in the bath. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for a comfortable stay, as well as significantly extend the life of walls, floors, ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. How best to finish the steam room, washing, vestibule, read below.

When planning the finishing of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

• The constant presence of heated steam coming in a concentrated and dense stream;
• Temperature fluctuations, heating up to high temperatures;
• High humidity level.

The conditions in the steam room are, one might say, extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern widest range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose the option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the sheathing board. Its specifications must match the following requirements:

• Low heat capacity, the ability to quickly warm up and not accumulate heat;
• moisture resistance;
• High aesthetic characteristics;
• Pleasant smell, no tar when heated;
• Resistance to fungus and mold;
• Air purification.

Today, there are several classes of lining:

• C-class. Differs in low cost. But for finishing the bath, its characteristics are not high enough.
• B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, resin pockets. This class includes material on which, for every 1.5 m of length, there are no more than four knots;
• A-class. May have shallow cracks. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m of length is allowed on each panel.
• Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding cost. The color is uniform, cores and knots are absent.

The most common profiles are eurolining, thorn-groove, Softline, Calm.

Linden lining shows excellent results as an interior finish for a bath. Its density is quite low, due to which it does not heat up very much in the steam room. However, it does not emit tar. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

And also lining from other types of wood is suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing one or another material for sheathing, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, well-treated, and free of nicks, knots, and other obvious defects. A high-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

Additional processing by special means does not require the material for sheathing the steam room. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before proceeding with lining the clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. It is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It successfully copes with the effects of high temperatures, so it will last a little longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then one cannot but recall the cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is designed not only to take a shower and wash yourself properly at a comfortable temperature. The washroom should have a place to relax, so you can leave the steam room for a while, pamper yourself with massages, face and body masks and other relaxing and enjoyable treatments. It is necessary to think over all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be carried out taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If for a steam room you can choose among hardwood wood, then only conifers are suitable for washing - pine, spruce, larch. It is very easy to explain this choice. Softwood is resinous and highly water-repellent. Therefore, under washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood, and will last for many years, while maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of material for finishing floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are a comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is made of concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid out on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bath, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washroom can be completely wooden, but ceramic tile as the main finish is a more practical and durable option. She copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

A high level of humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath. This is the most important aspect that must be considered when choosing finishing materials. For the vestibule and other rooms, you can use any type of wood. But don't limit yourself to wood. Other materials are also suitable for high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms:

• Porcelain stoneware;
• Plaster;
• Natural stone;
• fiberglass wallpaper;
• Majolica.

Ample opportunities for aesthetic and practical finishes bath rooms open various combinations of these materials. For example, the combination looks very solid and beautiful natural stone and wood. Do-it-yourself bath will allow you to translate non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, the photo of which is presented on this page, will help you choose optimal materials and their combinations.

The ceiling of the bath must withstand high temperature loads, as well as cope with the flow of hot wet steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam with the help of heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them hermetically, then their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform vapor barrier with foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material has a thinner thickness, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. This material, when exposed to high temperatures, releases substances toxic to humans, therefore it is unsuitable for use in bath rooms.

Each joint of the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is glued with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is pierced, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole must be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from the wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

• 2mm stainless steel sheet
• galvanized box;
• Clamp clamp.

Cutting the ceiling is carried out mainly in order to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling slabs. In addition, in this way, the elements of the chimney receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

The box 400x400 mm is installed from the side of the attic. A sheet of stainless steel 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, from the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is fitted with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and the steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the duct contour.

The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

We bring to your attention an instruction that will help you complete the lining of the ceiling in the bath with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

• The ceiling is sheathed with slats 2x4 cm. They are fastened with a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
• Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
• Fastening panels begins with one of the walls. The first bar is exposed with the groove out. The spike of another panel is hammered into it. The order of connection of the spike and groove can be changed, it is not fundamental.

When sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material gently and gently without damaging it.

• Fasten the planks using special clamps. Kleimers are attached to the rail with a screw or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time to complete the work is significantly reduced.
• There should be gaps between the sheathing and the wall, up to 2.5 cm in size. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask the gaps enough to nail ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with inconspicuous nails. It is necessary to hammer in such nails at an angle, and drive the hat tightly into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing should be carried out along strictly vertical lines. A level check is required after each panel installed. If there is no level at hand, then you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values ​​obtained as a result of the measurements diverge, then the lining must be knocked out so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the skin will turn out uneven and sloppy. Stuffing is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove with a mallet or hammer to fit the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness in another way. The wooden lining is fixed and sharp wood chips are hammered under it.

The only material suitable for wall cladding in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tile, etc. In the vestibule and the relaxation room, you can create original ensembles by combining different materials.

Clapboard wall cladding

According to the main parameters, wall cladding with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling decoration.

• The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step - 80-100 cm.
• In the recesses between the bars you need to put a heater. For example, mineral wool. It is cut with a sharp knife into appropriate pieces. It is not necessary to tamp the heater.

Note! All work from mineral wool must be performed with gloves, a respirator and goggles.

• Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.

Pay special attention to insulation in corner joints.

• Don't forget to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the remote rail. The crate is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the crate must be nailed horizontally.

First of all, rails for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. In order to facilitate the alignment of the horizontal slats, string can be pulled between the vertical slats at the ceiling and floor.

• With separate bars, you need to separate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe door and the window;
• Now you can go directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls, without lingering in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the panel spike should be directed upwards so that moisture does not collect or linger in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by fixing the boards to the ceiling. The crate in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with kleimers, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you are using self-tapping screws or nails, then insert them at an angle, driving the caps deep into the wood. Ventilation gaps of about 2 cm should remain between the ceiling and the sheathing, the floor and the sheathing.

A common problem people face when doing self-plating clapboard bath walls - this is the need to cut the material. It's easy to do. You can cut the lining with a fine-toothed saw or a jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is cut to the desired size and fixed to the crate. The next wall starts with a panel where the comb is cut off. It should fit snugly last rail previous wall. In the corners, the elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angle values ​​before sawing the batten or panel. Draw a line with a pencil on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no seams at the corners of the panels.

The most important moment when performing finishing work inside the bath is the insulation of the furnace. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

• Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
• Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. With a close location of the stove near the wall, the mineralite must be put in two layers. If at least 40 cm remains between the oven and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
• Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
• Solid red brick. They need to lay out the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
• Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Ceramic tile - best option for finishing all rooms of the bath, except for the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the direct execution of work.

Preparatory stage

The preparation of concrete or cinder block walls consists in removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. The preparation of wooden walls is to perform waterproofing. With a construction stapler, roofing felt, roofing felt is nailed onto wooden panels. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which a concrete solution is densely placed.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail an even beam. It will become the basis fine finish. Instead of a bar, suitable and metallic profile. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal, use the building level. For vertical, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in the bath

You can prepare a tile fixing solution yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy a ready mix. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature fluctuations. Tiles must be immersed in water before laying to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will adhere much better to the solution.

Start of work - from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially diligently, because it is he who determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the accuracy of the entire lining.

Glue is placed on the reverse side of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. Glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the adhesive protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tile with a rubber mallet.

It is important to maintain an equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you lay adjacent rows, fix special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will keep the same gap both in length and in height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After that, you can remove the level and wipe the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

The final stage is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tile and giving it the final aesthetic appearance.

With the help of ceramic tiles, you can realize the most daring creative fantasies. You can lay it evenly, diagonally, offset, patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or pattern, it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where which tile should be located. This will allow you to accurately complete the cladding and give your bath a truly original and unique look.

Unusual and very stylish solution for a bath - this is a finish with terracotta slabs. They are ideal for this type of room, as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will work too.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

• Mastic is densely distributed on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than conventional ceramic tiles;
• We apply the plate to the wall, press down and align;
• We continue to work in the same order with the rest of the plates;
• To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
• Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
• 10 hours after the installation is completed, you can start processing the seams. It is performed with a heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water to the density of sour cream.
• Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
• The grout is applied with a construction gun. The spout should be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
• The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not fall on the plates themselves or other surfaces.

Handling a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If the grout still gets on the tile, then do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It is better to wait a little while the grout dries. So, you can gently scrape it off.

• The direction of applying the grout can be any;
• Two hours later, you can move on to the stitching, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
• Jointing is carried out with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
• After that, you need to walk along the seams with a finger in a clean glove.

The wooden floor in the bath does not need additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying starts from one of the corners. In this case, the ideal evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bath is made with a slope towards the drain. But the approximate location of the tiles is still worth noting on the floor by level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
• The teeth of the spatula imprint a pattern on the mortar, which ensures its reliable connection with the tile;
• Tiles are laid out. In the process of work, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget about slope formation! Tiles for the first row must be dry. And it is desirable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
• Corner elements are cut to the required size using a tile cutter;

With free space on the land, you can build a strong and very functional bath. Moreover, the last factor is due to the competent design of the premises, their decoration and furniture. Regardless of the size of the building, such premises as a steam room and an entrance hall with a wardrobe should be equipped inside.

But such an economy option can hardly be called comfortable enough, therefore, among the rooms recommended for design, decoration and equipment with all the necessary rooms, the following can be distinguished:

• shower, washroom or washing room. Basic hygiene procedures in the form of taking a shower will be performed here. The room can be equipped with a small font and a bucket-waterfall for dousing;

  

• separate bathroom. There is no need to talk about the purpose of this room. It is especially important to allocate a room for a toilet in two-story bathhouses with a kitchen and a sleeping place;

  

• seating area with dining area. This room is intended for relaxation after the soaring procedure, drinking tea. The zone can be supplemented with a fireplace, a seating area and other furniture and decorations;
• kitchen area. Actual for baths of a large area, in which large companies often relax. The kitchen area can be small and consist of an electric stove, kettle and microwave oven. Sometimes the kitchen is supplemented with a phytobar, equipping a rack with high chairs and a cabinet for storing packages with elite varieties of tea and medicinal herbs;

  

• pantry. small room with shelves and cabinets worth highlighting for storing bath sheets, towels, hats, shoes, etc. This is where you should store household chemicals for cleaning, so as not to litter the shower room with it;
• sleeping area. For example, a second floor can be allocated for a separate bedroom. Here it will be nice to accommodate the guests who have arrived, if there is not enough space in the house;
• boiler room for boiler equipment;

  

• billiard room;
• solarium;
• pool;

  

• laundry. It is recommended to design next to the shower room for ease of installation of plumbing and sewerage. The laundry room can be equipped with a washing machine, a drying cabinet or a conventional floor / wall dryer, ironing board for bath linen;
• veranda or terrace;

  

• a small vestibule (relevant for baths that are used all year round).

  

Depending on the available budget, it is possible to equip only some of the proposed premises, for example, a bathroom, a shower and a relaxation area. If the plans are to build a truly chic health complex, and it’s not difficult to pay a “tidy sum” for comfort, you should think about including all the above-mentioned premises in the estimate.

Steam room arrangement. 1 - foil. 2-insulation. 3-membrane. 4-plinth ceiling made of wood. 5-plinth floor wooden. 6-vent valve. 7-ceiling out wooden lining. 8-light. 9-wood floor. 10 shelves 11-thermometer and hygrometer. 12-back shelf. 13-chimney. 14-tank for water. 15-heater. 16-bath oven. 17-protective screen. 18-non-combustible base under the stove. 19-door to the steam room. 20-bath accessories. 21-light therapy or diode illumination.

It is customary to equip the steam room on the first floor of the building. The entrance to the steam room can be from the shower room or dressing room. The door to the steam room is installed from tempered glass or wooden strictly without metal decorations, inserts and fittings (with the exception of hinges), because. metal can heat up and burn the visitor. For one soaring, it is customary to take 1-2 meters square area premises. Another meter will take the oven. Accordingly, the comfortable dimensions of the steam room are 3-5 sq.m. Too big a steam room with high ceilings is not worth doing - it will take a lot of time and fuel to warm up the room, and the air will dry out from a red-hot stove.

Video - The optimal dimensions of the bath and steam room

The height of the ceilings is arranged from 2.2 to 2.6 m, depending on the height of the owners of the bath and the height of the shelves, which in turn can be 1-3 tiered. The shelves themselves are made so that it is comfortable to sit on them, lie down, and a steam bather with a broom can stand next to him and perform bath procedures. The top shelf is made the widest, and the recommended height of each tier is 35 cm. It is better to sew up the space under the shelves in order to reduce fuel consumption for heating the unused area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

It is desirable to make shelves from hardwood, the use of cedar / larch is acceptable. Wood can be combined, but it must be of good quality - dry, without knots, resin pockets, traces of rot and mold, carefully sanded. For convenience, you should purchase or make do-it-yourself headrests from aspen or linden, as well as a tub and a bucket with a long handle. Be sure to hang in a steam bath thermometer with a hygrometer to regulate the degree of heating and humidity.

In the photo - pointer thermohygrometer and hourglass

Bath thermometer prices

bath thermometer

The lighting in the bath is rarely made bright. Basically, ceiling and wall lamps are covered with wooden shades / lampshades so that soft twilight reigns in the steam room. Additionally, a diode tape can be used for color therapy, as well as an optical fiber to create the effect of a starry sky.

The stove is usually located closer to the door. Moreover, the heater can be made of brick or made of steel (wood, electric).

Sauna stove-heater at the entrance to the steam room

Sauna heater installed on ceramic tiles

When installing the stove, it is extremely important to properly insulate the wall, floor, and ceiling at the point of contact with the outgoing chimney. The stove is placed at a distance of at least 10-15 cm from the wall, if the firebox door opens into the steam room, if located sauna stove simultaneously in two adjacent rooms and the output of the furnace door to the dressing room, in interior partition a recess is cut through, in its dimensions exceeding the dimensions of the furnace by 10-15 cm on each side of the heating surfaces. Insulation is made by means of asbestos cardboard, brick, ceramic tiles, stainless steel sheets.

Separately, it is worth considering the options for finishing the walls, ceiling and floor. In addition to the standard lining and wooden floor, there are some interesting ideas.

Table. Steam room wall decoration

Material	Advantages	Peculiarities	Mounting method
Salt crystals or halotherapy blocks in your own bath/sauna	They have a pronounced therapeutic effect on the body as a whole, the respiratory system and the skin in particular.	Salt crystals are installed in saunas with dry steam. The maximum evaporation of microelements occurs at 60 degrees, but already at 75 degrees the blocks turn into a salt solution. Salt bricks must not be allowed to come into contact with water, as salt dissolves in it.	Salt crystals are used to make spectacular rectangular inserts in the walls, it is also possible to finish one or more walls from floor to ceiling. Facing with salt blocks is combined with diode or other lighting; a two-component quick-setting adhesive is used to fix the masonry (hardening time from 10 minutes).
Wild stone or decorative brick	The uniqueness of the interior, an unusual combination of stone with wooden surfaces. Improved fire safety. When using medicinal rocks of stone, for example, soapstone or jadeite, in addition - a healing effect.	Stone can be lined with both part of the wall behind the stove, and the entire wall behind the heating device. Sometimes stones are fixed instead of skirting boards on the floor and ceiling. It is worth remembering that the stones in the bath are very hot, so they should not be allowed even accidental contact with the skin of visitors to the steam room.	If faced with stone wooden wall, you will need to fix construction waterproofing paper on it (overlaps on all sides 4-8 cm). On top of the waterproofing layer with galvanized staples or nails, a paint grid should be fixed (vertical fastening pitch up to 15 cm, horizontally up to 40 cm, at the corners the grid is laid in two layers). The mesh is plastered, and after drying 1-1.5 layers of plaster, facing stones are laid out on a cement-sand mortar. It is recommended that you first lay out the stones on the floor and number them for convenience. It is better not to use stones that are too heavy for cladding.
Ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, polished natural stone tiles	Fire safety, aesthetics, interior decoration of the steam room, durability.	All of these tiles are laid on the wall behind the stove (all or only part of the wall). Tiles with a thickness of more than 10 mm are installed using metal fasteners and pouring cement-sand mortar / glue / mastic into the seams.	The tiles are fixed on the plastered surface of the walls. For fixing tiles, highly specialized adhesives are used, for marble - on a latex or polyurethane basis (anhydrous). Laying is carried out from the bottom up, the seams are laid with crosses or wedges to maintain the same thickness.
Cork moisture resistant coating	Suitable for both additional insulation of walls, and for their finishing.	Plates are used with a thickness of 20-40 mm.	Installation of plates on the wall is carried out using specialized glue for cork coatings. It is permissible to use cork plinth for arranging a steam room.

Table. Materials for arranging flooring in the steam room

Material	Advantages	Peculiarities
	Beautiful, durable, looks noble.	Quite cold, it is desirable to install underfloor heating systems under the porcelain stoneware coating. Must be non-slip. Seams are treated with moisture-resistant grout to prevent the spread of mold and fungus.
	Cushioning, warm to the touch, perfectly combined with wooden surfaces. Not slippery.	Suitable for styling in a steam room, because. floor temperature rarely exceeds 30-40 degrees.
Wooden boards and wooden mats	Such coatings can be laid on concrete or porcelain stoneware.	Requires treatment with moisture-proof impregnations and periodic air drying.

Note! It is unacceptable to use any plastic, rubber coatings, linoleum, PVC tiles and panels for arranging a steam room. Decoration Materials and furniture when heated should not emit a chemical smell, resin.

The ceiling in the Russian bath has long been made of timber, lining, boards. It is wooden surfaces that tolerate high temperatures well, fill the bath with a pleasant aroma and do not contribute to the accumulation of condensate - wood tends to “breathe”.

There is no point in painting the ceiling, upholstering with plywood, chipboard, plastering - high humidity and temperature will quickly ruin such a finish. In Turkish baths, mosaics are often used to decorate the ceiling, but it is worth remembering that the humidity and temperature in hammams are much lower than in Finnish and Russian steam rooms. It is possible to use a cork coating Thermocork 100 mm thick, specially designed for the ceilings of baths (cost 3900-4000 rubles per 1 sq.m).

It is desirable to equip the steam room with one window. A particularly eccentric option is a full-wall panoramic blind window. Such a window allows you to admire nature from your own steam room, while the mirror coating on the outside will not allow the curious to look inside. But remember that the larger the window, the greater the heat loss.

The most common option is an opening single-leaf window 60x60 cm or 40x60 cm. The window is not placed on the wall behind the stove or sun loungers. The height from the floor to the lower sash cannot be less than 170 cm - it is this height that implies effective ventilation of the room (natural air circulation). The frame can be made of wood or high-quality plastic that can withstand temperatures up to 120 degrees.

Sometimes instead of a window they insert glass blocks. They allow you to save on the lighting of the steam room during the day.

Prices for different types of lining

Arrangement of a shower or washroom

The shower room can be organized as separate room or adjacent to the steam room, for example, separated only by a glass shutter or glass block partition. A cabin can be installed here or a shower tray with a ladder for draining water can be organized. If a large number of visitors are planned, it is recommended to install two or three showers.

Directly in the shower room, in addition to the shower itself, there should be a bench, a mirror, as well as hooks and non-traumatic shelves for toiletries.

Often, a washroom is equipped with a pouring bucket and a bathtub made of acrylic or cast iron. Also, fonts are installed in the washing room, especially if there is not enough space to equip a full-fledged pool.

The temperature in the shower should be higher than in the dressing room, but significantly lower than in the steam room.

Hot water supply is organized by connecting to the central water supply, installing a boiler or installing a heat exchanger and an external water tank (from 80 to 120 liters).

Discharge of water is organized in the central sewer, septic tank or drainage well. A drain drain is installed in the shower room (the floor is poured or laid with a slope towards the drain funnel), from which waste liquid is discharged through a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm. One person needs about 50 liters of water to take a shower, respectively, using this figure, you can calculate the volume of a septic tank or storage cesspool for a bath. By the way, treatment and storage plants should not be located near the walls of the bath or underground - bad smell enters the room. It is recommended to mount a local installation 5-10 m from the walls of the bath.

Coating options for wall, floor and ceiling cladding are shown in the following table.

Table. Arrangement of a shower in the bath

Material	Peculiarities	Finishing example, photo
Wood	Wood is often trimmed with showers adjacent to the steam room, so as not to violate the overall style of the premises. Wood does not tolerate constant moisture - fungus develops, rot appears. Consideration should be given to installing shower tray or cabins to minimize the effect of moisture on the material of the walls and floor, as well as regularly dry the boards, treat with antiseptics.
Wood Ceramic tile, porcelain tile, mosaic	These materials are most appropriate in the shower, but it is important to choose products with a non-slip surface, and grout the seams with compounds that prevent mold. It is recommended to lay wooden or rubber mats on the tiled floor.
PVC panels	This material can be used for walls and ceilings only in showers that are not adjacent to the steam room. Plastic does not tolerate exposure to high temperatures, but high humidity is not terrible for him. The panels are quite easy to install, wash, but the strength of the material leaves much to be desired.
Natural stone	Not everyone likes this solution due to the extraordinary interior and the coldness of the coating. However, the stone tolerates high humidity well and is quite suitable for shower wall cladding.

Video - An example of a shower ceramic tile finish

Do not forget about the ventilation in the shower. An extractor hood with an electric fan should be located under the ceiling. For natural ventilation, it is worth placing a small opening window closer to the ceiling, this is especially true for wooden baths and showers with timber trim, clapboard.

Advice! In order for less heat to escape from the shower, it is recommended to equip the threshold at the entrance to the room, as well as install a door of low height (the smallest is selected from the standard 2.37 m, 2.07 m, 2 m and 1.87 m, and this value should be reduced further by 10 cm). The justified width of the doorway is 75-80 cm.

bathroom

The bathroom can be a separate room or be combined with a shower room. In the first case, in addition to a toilet bowl or dry closet, it is recommended to install a washbasin with a mirror, a cabinet, a shelf, and a paper holder in the room. Finishing a separate bathroom can be absolutely anything, starting with classic tiling and plastic panels and ending with cork, linoleum, a combination of various materials.

Toilet ventilation is very important. According to the rules, up to 50 cubic meters of fresh air should enter the toilet room with 1 toilet every hour.

Often a heating radiator is installed in the toilet so that it is comfortable during the cold season. It is also worth placing a boiler here so as not to spoil the interior of the washing room.

In the case when it is planned to install a toilet bowl in the shower room, it is worth equipping two forced hoods. One will not allow moisture to accumulate under the ceiling, the second will ventilate the space above the toilet.

The decoration of the shower room with the toilet is made in the same style; for convenience, the toilet bowl is installed in the far corner of the washing room and is fenced off with a partition, curtain, screen. It is unacceptable to use materials like linoleum in the shower room with the restroom. Apply standard options finishing with tiles, lining, mosaics, stone, plastic, etc.

Water can only be drained from the toilet to a local sewage treatment plant or a central sewer. If floors of a leaking type are arranged in the bath, a sewer network must be provided separately for the toilet (or an independent mobile dry closet, for example, of a composting or liquid type, is installed).

Of course, each private developer designs a bath based on their own capabilities and preferences, but you should familiarize yourself with federal regulations prescribing the rules for arranging baths in general and latrines in particular:

• SanPiN 983-72, 2.1.2.2645-10 and 42-128-4690-88;
• SNiP 30-02-97;
• SNiP 31-05-2003;
• and for organizing a shower and toilet for the disabled, it is worth paying attention to the second edition of the manual on integrated environmental design for people with disabilities. handicapped(dated 1997, prepared by the Moscow Committee for Architecture).

Downloads:

Plumbing dimensions

Prices for dry closets

dry closet

Dressing room and wardrobe

The dressing room is the last room, which must be located on the first floor. This room can be large and spacious or very tiny. In any case, from the dressing room there must be an entrance to the shower room. The finishing of dressing rooms is most often made of wood to emphasize the style of the bath. It is desirable to arrange furniture wooden.

The recommended air temperature in the dressing room is 26-28 degrees. Ventilation can be natural, for which opening windows are installed, which in turn are also a source of additional light in the daytime. artificial lighting it is worth making it sufficiently saturated (chandelier and wall sconces), but not sharp.

The dressing room can be combined with a dressing room if the entire bath small size. In this case, you should be guided by the following recommendations:

• ceiling height should exceed the height of a person, taking into account the raised hands. Optimal - 2.4-2.6 m;
• the number of seats, hooks and shelves for clothes should correspond to the expected number of visitors to the bath;
• the floor in the dressing room and dressing room should be warm and non-slip so that it is comfortable to walk barefoot. For example, you can install a "warm floor" or lay a carpet;
• one or more electrical outlets should be provided;
• dressing room is recommended to be equipped with a mirror.

By the way, the dressing room can be combined with kitchen area by setting the angular kitchen set With household appliances. If in the kitchen it is planned not only to brew tea, but also to fully cook food, it is necessary to install a separate hood, and also plan to lay water and sewer pipes to connect the sink.

Advice! You should not install kitchen cabinets under the stairs so that the dust from the steps does not fall on the dishes.

Video - Dressing Room Design

Second floor

In the photo - a cozy bedroom in the attic of the bath

How to equip the second floor, everyone decides on their own. Whether there will be a bedroom, a billiard room, a solarium or a simple pantry upstairs depends on the size of the bath and the budget of its owner. However, we strongly recommend that you install a safe staircase with wide steps between the floors, and add a small balcony to the residential floor.

Arrange the bath so that you feel cozy and comfortable in it.

Video - Bath project with billiards

Video - Building a bath with a font

The arrangement of the bath requires a careful selection of materials for construction. Finishing the room from the inside is especially important, because the comfort of operation depends on it. This task can be carried out using a variety of materials and finishes, each of which has its own characteristics.

Interior decoration of the bath: purpose and features

The classic Russian bath includes three main rooms: a steam room, a washing room and a vestibule. Additionally, there may be a lounge, billiard room and other facilities. In any case, interior decoration is necessary, which not only creates comfort, but is also needed to create an optimal atmosphere and keep warm.

The bath building can be built from timber or another type of wood. This material is available, in demand and effective. Log buildings for summer use do not need complex finishing. A bathhouse on a log house should have well-caulked lower crowns; from the inside, the walls do not require additional materials. This is due to the fact that wood is able to "breathe", removing moisture and steam to the outside. The use of synthetic insulation will disrupt this process. However, thermal insulation is necessary for a winter bath, clapboard trim is appropriate. Log walls look aesthetically pleasing and without additional finishing.

The construction of foam blocks is reliable, it is used at any time of the year, but needs interior decoration. In the steam room, the lining is almost always used, under which layers of hydro and thermal insulation are placed. In the rest room and locker room, it is appropriate to use ceramic tiles, PVC panels, lining. Walls made of foam blocks are pre-treated with antiseptic compounds. The floor is often trimmed ceramic tiles with anti-slip surface for comfort.

Brick is rarely used for the construction of baths, but such structures are reliable, very durable, and environmentally friendly. Brick buildings do not need outdoor decoration, but inside you can use porcelain stoneware for the floor, ceramic tiles, lining. In the locker room, the walls are often trimmed PVC panels, but they are not suitable for a steam room due to the high temperature in the room.

Wooden lining made of larch is a universal solution for the interior decoration of the bath. This material is affordable, practical and durable. If a more reliable coating of walls or floors is required, then porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles are used. bath from any building material requires an interior finish that will provide comfort, aesthetics and protect the main walls from moisture.

Interior finishing options

All bath rooms are exposed to high humidity, which requires a careful choice of material for interior decoration. There are several basic options, each of which has certain properties. Advantages, disadvantages, purpose and features of operation must be taken into account when choosing an option for interior decoration of a bath from any material.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of materials

Material	Advantages	Flaws	Optimal application
Clapboard made of wood	Eco-friendly, nice texture, the possibility of combining with other materials, variety of wood species	Difficult installation and maintenance exploitation, durability, fire hazard	For walls in any room of the bath, built from any material
Ceramic tile, porcelain stoneware	Durability and reliability, resistance to mechanical and chemical influences, wide choice, durability, environmental friendliness, fire safety	It's important to follow the rules installation, high cost, uncomfortable texture	In any room of the bath for finishing the floor, walls, firebox
PVC panels	Affordable price, variety of colors, easy installation, easy maintenance during operation	Fragility, low resistance to high temperatures, brittleness	For dressing room, rest room, shower room

Photo gallery: lining options

Log walls make the bath cozy and do not require additional finishing. The combination of lining and ceramic tiles - practical solution
All surfaces inside the steam room can be finished with clapboard
The lining is easy to mount both on the ceiling and on the walls Clapboard trim is convenient for a small steam room Clapboard can be easily combined with stone and tile Relaxation room is easy to decorate luxuriously

Choice of finish

The interior decoration of the bath performs not only an aesthetic function, but also provides comfort, an optimal atmosphere in the premises. Therefore, materials for arranging a steam room, shower room, rest room or other space must meet the following requirements:

• environmental friendliness, non-toxicity, safety for human health when the material is heated;
• resistance to mechanical, temperature loads;
• easy care during operation;
• simple installation technology.

Popular materials such as wood and ceramic tiles meet these requirements. They are easily combined with each other, allowing you to create a comfortable and safe environment inside any bath room.

When choosing a material, its purpose is taken into account. The tile is appropriate for the floor and walls, and the ceiling is decorated with planed boards and clapboard. This combination is optimal for a shower room, and in a steam room, often all surfaces are made of wood. This allows you to create comfort and spectacular atmosphere of the Russian bath. Suitable for drier conditions stretch ceiling, but do not make drywall constructions. This is due to high humidity in all areas of the bath, and drywall is unstable to moisture.

Wood and lining from different breeds wood are popular materials for interior decoration of the bath. This is due to the fact that wood is available, environmentally friendly, and the installation of elements does not require special preparation. For a bath, such wood species as larch, aspen, abachi, alder are optimal. They are durable, resistant to moisture and temperature extremes.

Preparation: calculation of the working area

Before starting work, you should calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsurfaces that need finishing. Lining is used for walls and ceilings, and the floor is built from boards. For a quality finish, high quality wood with the lowest resin content is required. Therefore, pine is rarely a material for arrangement, as it releases resin.

The decoration of each room consists of several stages. Installation is done first floor covering, which is a flooring made of boards with a thickness of 50 mm. The elements are laid on logs 300 mm high, which are installed on a sand cushion, equipped on the ground. After that, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls and ceiling is calculated, which they plan to finish with clapboard. To do this, you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach wall, ceiling and add up the data.

Material selection and calculation

Lining from a larch - optimal solution for finishing a steam room or a washing room. Under the influence of time, humidity, its wood becomes harder, which makes the interior decoration durable. When choosing a lining, you should pay attention to the following features:

• lining for finishing a steam room, washing should be marked "class Extra" or "class A". Such material is devoid of large knots, has a uniform structure, a flat surface;
• wooden elements should not have signs of decay, cracks, deformation. Smooth and dense lining is easy to install and looks aesthetically pleasing;
• finishing requires not only lining, but also steam and heat-insulating materials. Finishing carried out only after the installation of these layers;
• the thickness of the board must be at least 12.5 mm, the tenon of 8 mm corresponds to the depth of the groove. Humidity of material - no more than 12%;
• high-quality material has a flat, smooth surface.

It is also important to correctly calculate the amount of material. Lining is often calculated in square meters. In this case, its number is equal to the area of ​​​​working surfaces. This figure should be increased by 5%, since material damage is possible during operation, so lining is purchased with a margin.

To work, you need bars or thin slats. If the thermal insulation of the bath was carried out outside, then only the installation of vapor barrier and finishing are carried out inside. Therefore, you need to purchase a vapor barrier film that will provide comfort indoors. Otherwise, the insulation is carried out from the inside and you will need a heater, a waterproofing film and bars for the crate.

Video: how to choose a lining

Tools and Consumables

The construction and arrangement of any object requires the use of reliable tools. Of particular importance in the construction of a bath is the quality of fastening materials, because the durability of the finish depends on it.

List of tools and consumables:

• construction stapler with staples;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• building level;
• nails;
• self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion coating;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• hacksaw.

Tools need to be prepared in advance, and fasteners purchased with a margin. This makes it possible to securely fix all materials and elements.

Step-by-step instructions for interior decoration of the bath

Wall decoration is carried out after the installation of heat and vapor barrier. To do this, you need to attach vertical or horizontal bars to the wall, the distance between which is equal to the width of the insulation used. A waterproofing film is fixed with brackets over the racks, and then the insulation is also fixed on the brackets or glue. After that, a vapor barrier layer is attached, which protects the supporting structures from condensate.

Sheathing the walls of the bath from the inside involves the following steps:

1. Rails are fixed on top of the vapor barrier film, the distance between which should be 50 cm. A gap of 3 cm should be left between the vertical rails of the frame and the ceiling and the same distance from the floor side. This is necessary for the shrinkage of the structure.
2. TO wooden surface without internal insulation, the slats are fixed with self-tapping screws, and to the brick base - with dowels. At the same time, it is important to control the verticality of the rails with a plumb line, and check the plane with cords stretched between the extreme bars. Clamps are installed on the back side of the lining board, after which the panel is attached to the crate with nails.
3. Next, a canvas is assembled from the lining, inserting one element into the groove of the other. A clamp is attached to the back wall of each panel, with the help of which the lining is fixed to the crate. You can also fix the parts simply on nails, deepening their hats into the wood. The step between the fasteners is about 60 cm. It is important to connect the parts tightly, but leave a gap of about 2 mm, as the wood swells from moisture.

Lathing when lining walls with clapboard is necessary for walls made of any materials. The bars allow you to create a ventilation gap, and the vapor barrier film ensures the removal of moisture. This is how quality is maintained. load-bearing structures and finish appearance. The ceiling is sheathed with clapboard using the same technology, having previously fixed the vapor barrier film.

Video: preparing the ceiling for clapboard cladding

Finishing a bath with clapboard is a popular method of arrangement. At the same time, wood is successfully combined with ceramic tiles, stone. Therefore, the interior decoration of the bath can be varied, but it is important to choose the installation technology of a suitable material.

Having set out to build a bathhouse with your own hands, you should study in detail each stage of construction. A qualified approach when choosing a site, a competent project and following the recommendations at all stages of arranging a bath will ensure a worthy result of the invested work.

Rules for determining a place for construction

Skillfully chosen place for construction guarantees comfortable operating conditions in the future. Experts recommend considering the following recommendations:

• Despite the benefit in the consumption of building materials, the extension of the bath to the main housing creates an increased risk of fire.
• Avoid the close location of the reservoir - this can provoke flooding of the building.
• Rear of the yard - optimal comfortable spot for the location of the bath.
• The construction of a bath is necessarily accompanied by the arrangement of communications, including a drainage system, and effective ventilation.
• Avoid areas near roads.
• Ensure maximum heating of the bath sunbeams its construction on the south side of the site will help. Protection against gusts of wind is an additional bonus of a winning solution when arranging.
• Construction away from the line of contact between the plots will help eliminate disagreements with neighbors.
• In order not to provoke pollution of drinking water sources, a site for the construction of a bath is selected at a distance of about 20 m from a well or well.

Any construction event is not complete without preliminary planning. The following drawings of baths will help you choose the right project.

The minimum dimensions of the building are determined based on the predicted number of simultaneously vacationers in a paired establishment. The acceptable area per visitor is 5 m 2 of the total space of the bath, a company of four people will need 20 m 2. A standard bath includes the construction of a steam room, dressing room and washing room. If desired, arrange other premises. In order for a do-it-yourself bath to bring only positive emotions, consider the following nuances when designing and building:

• The rational height of the rooms is from 2.0 to 2.2 m. Lower ceilings will create inconvenience for vacationers, a high room will require additional heat carriers and increase the warm-up time.
• The arrangement of the exit of window openings to the west contributes to the extension of natural light. Soar in the bath usually at the end of the day, watch the sunset in between visits to the steam room - The best way relaxation.
• Doors are best planned on the south side, this will reduce the worries of clearing the entrance of snow.

  Advice! The window and door openings of the bath are made small. The optimal dimensions of the doors are 70x180 cm, subject to the arrangement of a high threshold. Some inconvenience at the entrance is offset by a significant reduction in heat loss.

• The criteria for choosing materials for construction is their light weight along with high energy-saving capacity.
• The acquisition of high-quality equipment and well-executed installation of communications contribute to the safe operating conditions of the bath.
• Avoid using resinous woods for furnishing decorative finishes baths inside.

After defining optimal sizes and other nuances of construction, proceed to the preparation of the following drawings:

• general design of the bath;
• plan of each room;
• option for arranging the foundation;
• roofing plan;
• method of fastening the beam;
• floor and ceiling mounting option;
• the design of the stove for the bath and the features of its installation.

Comment! When choosing finished projects construction, consider the type of soil and climatic conditions the region in which the construction of the bath is planned.

With design skills, you can draw up your bath plan. Ordering drawings from a specialized company is another option for preparing for future construction.

Indicative list of materials

The construction of a bath will require the availability of materials, the volume of which depends on the chosen project. Here is an indicative list required for arranging a bath:

• Bar with a section of 15/15 cm.
• Board for floor mounting. An edged board 4 m long and 15/5 cm in size is optimal for these purposes.
• The ceiling surface is sheathed with a clapboard 2 cm thick, the width of which is 10 cm.
• Arrangement of decorative finishes inside the bath is recommended to be carried out with the same material.
• Competent construction provides for the formation of steam, hydro and thermal insulation. For these purposes, a vapor barrier film, penofol or polyethylene film is purchased as waterproofing, for insulation ceiling surface mineral wool is perfect.
• Sheet asbestos will provide protection of bath surfaces from high temperatures. Installation is carried out on the walls and ceiling near the stove, as well as in the chimney area.
• Depending on the chosen method of building the foundation, you will need components for concrete mortar and materials for forming a columnar structure.
• The finish coating of the bath roof is often focused on finishing the main building or related buildings in order to create an overall harmony of the site.
• Heater for mezhventsovy seams. When building a bath, jute, tow, moss or flax felt are suitable for these purposes.

Advice! Start building a bath better in spring, this will allow the wood to settle in the subsequent six-month break. The purchase of cement is carried out immediately before the start of the arrangement process so that it does not lose its qualities.

The main stages of arrangement

The labor-intensive process of construction is unlikely to do without the involvement of diverse specialists. Work begins with the arrangement of the selected area for the bath, freeing the soil from debris, roots and other elements that prevent construction.

Foundation laying

There are three main options for building a foundation for a bath:

• Columnar. The most popular option when building a bath from a bar. Let us dwell on the rules for its arrangement in more detail.
• Pile-screw. Refers to a type of columnar foundation. Characteristic features its construction is the speed of the process and low material costs.
• Tape. It is used for the construction of a bath in rare cases due to its high cost and labor intensity. The significant weight of the building or problematic soil are the main reasons for choosing a strip foundation.

If we build a bathhouse on swampy soil, it will save the structure from premature destruction, but be prepared for serious costs and effort.

The process of building a columnar base support for a bath includes the following steps:

• Prepare recesses for supports. The gap between the posts is determined based on the total load on the columnar structure, taking into account the characteristics of the soil. The corners of the bath and the intersection of the walls are the mandatory points for installing the pillars.
• The approximate depth of the pits is 1.0-1.5 m. The value varies based on the level of soil freezing.
• At the bottom of each recess, a cushion of sand and gravel is being arranged with a layer of 10-15 cm.
• The next stage in the construction of the foundation for the bath is the installation of asbestos pipes with strict observance of the vertical level.
• Inside the supports, for the purpose of reinforcement, metal rods are placed, which are poured with a concrete mixture in three stages.
• The space around the pipes is also filled with concrete mortar.
• After a few days, construction continues with the formation of a half-brick wall between the supports of the bath.

Building walls and roofs

After arranging the waterproofing on the foundation in the form of 2-3 layers of roofing material, they proceed to the construction of the walls of the bath. For construction, a bar with a section of 15/15 cm is traditionally chosen. The first crown made must be checked in all respects.

Advice! It is optimal when the first crown is at least 30 cm from the ground.

The arrangement of walls is most often carried out using the "paw" method. If the quality of the beam is in doubt, the rows of bath walls are connected with dowels. This method of construction will prevent displacement and twisting of the wood material. Installation of wedges is carried out according to the method brickwork: penetrating through 2-3 rows, skipping one. It is optimal when the gap between adjacent pins does not exceed half a meter. The arrangement of the walls of the bath is accompanied by the laying of insulation between the bars. During the construction process, do not forget to leave window and door openings.

After completing the arrangement of the walls of the bath, the rafters are fixed taking into account the features of the selected roof configuration:

• Construction shed roof involves fixing the rafters with two external supports. The second arrangement option is to fix the roof of the bath with an external and internal support.
• During installation gable system roofs, the lower edges of the rafters firmly rest on the walls of the bath, the upper edges of the elements form a roofing ridge.

Installation of rafters to the last crown of the walls of the bath is carried out with brackets. After arranging the rafters, they proceed to fixing the crate. Construction with my own hands baths at all stages are accompanied by the laying of insulating layers that prevent heat loss, the penetration of steam and moisture, which provokes premature damage to the base material. This rule also applies to the arrangement of the roof. After fixing the insulation, vapor and waterproofing, they proceed to the installation of a decorative roof covering.

At the next stage of construction, they are installing window frames and doors.

Installation of communications

Next, we move on to the arrangement of communications. The formation of a drainage system begins at the stage of foundation construction. To this end, outside the building, arrangements are underway. drainage well or pit, which are connected to the bath pipe. Be sure to provide a slope in the drain system to prevent stagnant sewer waste. How to make a competent drain system is shown in the following diagram:

After the formation of the sewer, they proceed to the arrangement of the floor. During the construction of the bath, two options for mounting the floor surface are common: using concrete or wood. The first option is more durable, but the labor and material costs of construction increase significantly. In addition, the arrangement of a concrete floor in the bath significantly increases the weight of the entire structure. Facing the surface in this case is carried out with tiles.

When arranging a wooden floor, it is made leaky. The construction technology is as follows:

• Lag installation in progress.
• Boards are fixed on logs with a small gap.
• To divert wastewater, you can make a compact hatch, which is closed with a grate.
• The arrangement of the floor comes with a slope, allowing moisture to accumulate in the hatch.

The construction in the bath of a wooden floor is shown below in the photo:

Comment! To extend the period of operation of wooden floors will allow thorough ventilation of the room after each visit.

The next steps in the arrangement of the bath

• installation of insulating materials on the surface of the walls;
• construction of a water pipeline;
• supply of electricity.

Steam room equipment

One of the most important stages of construction is equipping the steam room with a stove. The place of its installation is planned in advance. The light construction of a bath made of timber is unlikely to withstand a heavy brick stove with a massive chimney. In this case, an additional foundation is required. Usually they resort to the option of mounting a metal model. Protection of adjacent surfaces with screens reflecting high temperature radiation - required condition construction. An approximate diagram of the arrangement of the furnace in the steam room is presented below:

The construction of convenient shelves is not particularly difficult: initially, the support frame is being installed, then boards are nailed to the installed support. The caps of the fasteners are carefully recessed into the depth to avoid burns.

Conclusion

The final touch of the arrangement is filling the bath with all kinds of accessories. Brooms, buckets, buckets, grates - the whole wooden entourage contributes to the formation of the traditional atmosphere of a Russian steam room.

Despite the laborious construction process, the result will be the pride of the owner and the joy of all invited visitors.