Installation of drywall profiles on the attic ceiling. Stages of self-plastering attic with drywall. th stage of finishing the attic with drywall: preparation

With the help of drywall, you can finish the attic quickly and relatively inexpensively. The material will hide the flaws of the walls and create a healthy microclimate in the room, and its lightness will allow you to apply a minimum of labor effort and eliminate the creation of an excessive load on the attic structure. All work consists in acquiring the right amount of drywall and subsequent step-by-step actions for sheathing.

Selection and calculation of material

Since the attic room is limited directly to the roof, which creates conditions of high humidity, it is recommended to use a type of drywall for finishing - moisture resistant. In this case, it is advisable to use sheets small and medium size, at least 12.5 mm thick.

Finishing drywall begins with the calculation of the area

To find out how many sheets are needed for finishing, you must first calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe surfaces that are planned to be sheathed, and then divide the resulting number by the area of ​​​​one drywall slab. Sheathing material is better to buy with a margin.

A short video with the secrets of marking drywall:

What other materials will be needed, as well as the list of necessary tools depends on the chosen finishing method. In any case, you will need seam paste(it takes about 4 liters per 9 sq. m of material) and a connecting tape, the consumption of which is 120 m per 45 sq. m. m finishing material.

In the case of using the attic only as a summer room, surface preparation consists in removing the old coating from them, if any, and cleaning the walls and ceiling from dust and dirt. But most often they trim a pre-insulated attic, and the layer preceding the finishing one is.

You should not start finishing the attic without making sure that the roof is in good condition. To do this, you need to wait for the rainy season, and if there are weak spots they will let you know. Timely repair of roofing will help avoid embarrassing leaks on pre-mounted drywall.

Preparatory work is an important step in the finishing process.

It is also necessary to examine the beams and rafters. They must be strong, dry, free of rot and mold. If the attic has been built recently, it is worth postponing finishing work until the structural elements are completely dry so that there is no displacement and deformation of the finishing material.

In the prepared room, you can start finishing. In some cases, it is allowed to use the rafters directly as the basis for drywall boards. More often a frame is installed under the drywall. Sheets can be attached to the base in one layer. For greater strength, a two-layer sheathing is carried out. First of all, the side planes are to be finished. If there is a ceiling, it is sheathed last.

Fastening sheets to rafters

This method of sheathing is possible in a small attic, with a distance between the rafters of 75 cm or less. At first glance, this way you can do all the work very fast and with minimum investment, since it is not necessary to spend money on the crate and make efforts to install it. But in this case, it may be difficult to level the finishing layer, since the location of the rafters may not be perfectly even.

Fastening drywall to attic rafters

If, nevertheless, this option is chosen, you need to select a material of significant thickness (25 mm). Thinner sheets with such a rigid connection to the rafters will be subject to bending and damage during the inevitable vibrations of the roof.

Mounting on a metal frame

The use of metal structures as a support for drywall is a common and best way installation. The frame turns out guaranteed durable, and its use is especially recommended for finishing large attic rooms.

The metal frame is attached to the roof rafters

The steps look like this:

1. Frame markup. Before fixing the frame on the floor, its border is marked. The most convenient way to do this is using a paint cord. The same contour is transferred to the ceiling with a plumb line. The lines of arrangement of frame elements are marked on the surfaces.

2. Installation of guides. To fix these parts, dowels and self-tapping screws are used. Each section of the profile must be fixed to the base in at least 3 places, the step between which should be no more than a meter.

3. Suspension fastening. Elements are mounted along vertical lines for more reliable fixing of the frame.

4. Rack installation. Racks are installed in guides with a reference to vertical markings. Fastening of racks to guides and suspensions is carried out by self-tapping screws.

5. Drywall installation Self-tapping screws are screwed into the drywall boards at approximately 25 cm intervals. If more than one vertical sheet of drywall fits in the height of the plane, the plates are attached with an offset so that the horizontal joints do not continue each other.

Installation on a wooden crate

The wooden frame in the attic consists of slats fixed with screws across the rafters. Reiki must lie in one plane. For this, if necessary, leveling wooden linings are used. On the horizontal frame bars, the slabs of the finishing material are mounted vertically.

Sealing joints

This stage of work is very important for the final leveling of surfaces. The process must be carried out carefully, since improper sealing of the joints of the sheets will lead to the appearance of cracks over time.

Sealing putty joints between sheets of drywall

First, the joints are puttied. A connecting reinforcing tape is superimposed on top, so that the joint passes as much as possible along its middle. After hardening of the initial layer putty applied to the seam with tape again with a thin covering layer. When it is also completely dry, putty is made with a third layer. Do not forget about sealing the recesses in the places where the self-tapping screws are attached. At the final stage, when the putty dries, all the irregularities are sanded.

Another great video about finishing the attic with drywall:

In this way, a surface is obtained that is prepared for subsequent priming and the production of the desired cladding. Wallpaper, decorative plaster or paint desired color- any material will look perfect on flat walls and attic ceiling.

Thinking about finishing the attic floor of your own house, do not forget about such material as drywall. Its numerous advantages and ease of installation undoubtedly make it attractive to the prudent owner of a private household.

However, sheathing the attic with drywall requires both knowledge of the general technology of working with drywall and compliance with certain principles necessary for arranging a complex configuration of a room.

This article is devoted to how to sheathe the attic with drywall correctly.

The choice of drywall for the attic

The beginning of any construction, after drawing up a design project, of course, is the choice necessary materials for its implementation. Therefore, having decided to use drywall in the attic as the main finishing material, you need to choose one of the ones that is most suitable for rooms in a private house.

In the attic, it is most advisable to use plasterboard sheets with the following properties:

• , to ensure resistance to possible leaks and changes in humidity levels;

• , which are most relevant in a wooden house.

The best choice would be moisture-resistant drywall (GKLVO), which has a green paper layer and red markings.

An example of a sheathed attic with moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets

Necessary tools and material

In order to finish the attic with your own hands, you need to take care of.

The minimum tool set consists of the following items.

1. For markup:

• roulette;
• vertical and horizontal levels;
• hydraulic level;
• plumb;
• square, pencil, marker.

1. For cutting:

• if it is necessary to perform curly cuts;
• scissors for metal for cutting a metal profile.

1. For fixing sheets and profiles:

• screwdriver;
• hammer drill or impact drill, if the base of the house is made of blocks;

1. For finishing:

• seam knife;
• narrow and wide spatulas;
• brushes, if plasterboard coating is to be painted.

From additional materials you will need the following items.

1. , including:

• wall, 12.5 mm thick or more;
• , 9.5 or 8 mm;
• connecting elements;

1. Self-tapping screws of the following types:

1. Wood preservative.

• plaster, for sealing joints;
• polymeric, for finishing preparation of sheets for painting.

1. to strengthen seams and corners, as well.

The list of materials and tools can be expanded if a complex attic design is assumed.

Stages of finishing the attic with drywall

Finishing the attic with drywall is carried out in several successive stages.

Attic surface preparation and marking

The preparatory phase is the basis of not only the entire subsequent implementation process finishing works, but also directly affects the comfort and durability of the attic floor.

When marking, it is necessary first of all to think over its configuration and determine where the walls, partitions and plasterboard ceiling in the attic will be located.

Read also

Installation of vapor barrier under drywall

See in the video: tips for marking the attic.

The correct order of work is as follows.

1. Wooden surfaces must be treated with an antiseptic composition to prevent rotting of the wood.
2. Depending on the shape of the attic room, it is necessary to mark the location of the corners on the rafters:
3. One line, if the traditional rectangular shape of the room is assumed;
4. Two lines, if the attic suggests the presence of sloping walls.

Options for the formation of living space in the attic

When making marks, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the horizontal level both within the framework of one wall and in projection onto the opposite wall.

For optimal results, it is advisable to use a laser level for accurate marking.

1. Mark the ceiling line along the gable parts of the attic room by connecting the extreme marking points on the walls.
2. Transfer the lines corresponding to the walls to the floor using a plumb or vertical level.
3. Next, we will mark the profile attachment lines on an inclined wall, if it is provided for by the project. To do this, mark the gable with an indent of 10 cm and a step of no more than 60 cm. The resulting points are connected by horizontal lines.
4. Attachment points of direct suspensions are applied along the lines obtained, the step of which is 50 cm.

It should be noted that the quality of the markup will determine how the plasterboard sheets will be mounted in the future, so the correct installation diagram applied to the walls is very important.

Metal frame assembly

The next step is to install the frame base from the profile, which is performed in the following order:

1. Mounting the frame on the wall:

• initially, guides are cut and fixed on the gables with a 10 cm indent from the wall and checking their horizontalness;

Mounting method metal profiles on hangers

• further, the arrangement and fastening of the guides for vertical walls is carried out, while it is recommended to use the type of profile intended for mounting partitions, since suspensions are not used for its fastening;

Fastening metal profiles to wood without the use of hangers

• the next step is the installation of guides along the marking line on the floor;
• after that, cut along the guides at least 60 cm apart, and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Pay attention to the video: installation of drywall in the attic.

1. The device of a metal frame on the ceiling:

• at the marking points on the ceiling, direct suspensions are attached to the beams using self-tapping screws;
• the cut ceiling profile is inserted into the guides and fixed on the hangers in the usual way, observing the horizontal level.

Most in a simple way to align the profile on the ceiling is the stretching of the transverse twines, which allows you to make plasterboard ceilings even.

The photo shows options for attaching a metal profile under drywall in the attic.

After placing all the main elements of the frame under drywall, it is necessary to strengthen it with transverse jumpers, installed after 50 cm and fixed with special connecting crabs on self-tapping screws.

If an attic with a device is planned, then its frame is installed in the same way as for walls.

Installed insulated partition in the attic and sheathed with plasterboard sheets

The use of a wooden frame

Often used as a frame wooden crate. This is most justified when finishing the attic floor. wooden house.

Usage wooden frame for fixing drywall in the attic

The principle of constructing the basis for plasterboard sheathing remains the same:

• the bars are sewn onto the walls and onto the plane of the attic ceiling in increments of at least 60 cm;
• racks are also installed under vertical walls in increments of 60 cm.

In houses with attic-type living quarters, the usable area and attic sheathing with drywall are significantly increased - the fastest, highest quality and cheap way make it habitable.

In addition, if you properly insulate and bring radiators there, then this part of the building can be successfully operated in the winter.

We make a living space from the attic

In this article, we will not touch on the heating system and its installation, but consider two others, no less important issues- how and with what, to insulate the walls and how to sheathe the attic with drywall.

Although the type of roof is the same, the installation of drywall allows you to slightly change the internal configuration of the room. But, nevertheless, the principle of finishing remains, using which you can do everything to your liking.

Related articles:

Heaters and insulation

• One of the materials suitable and convenient for attic insulation is foam plastic of different thicknesses (20 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm, 100 mm).
  Lightweight foam blocks are convenient because they do not require special precautions during installation and are very easy to fit and fasten between beams and rafters. The gaps left during the joining of these panels are blown out mounting foam.

• Mineral wool, just like polystyrene, is used to insulate the attic, but, unlike the latter, it is carcinogenic and the dust emitted during installation is harmful to health.
  This material is obtained from basalt volcanic melts (stone wool), melts of blast-furnace slag (slag wool) and glass melt (glass wool). Its thickness varies from 20 to 200 mm, and the product is produced in rolls or panel-type briquettes.

If the installation of the roof was carried out as required by the instructions, then on the inside you should have a vapor-permeable film facing you with a rough side (throughput from inside to outside).

But, suddenly, for some reason, this was not done at the time, then you need to install it now, before installing the insulation. Under roofing material you can’t push it through, so just stretch the film between the rafters, fixing it with a stapler, and the final fasteners can be made with thin wooden planks (nailed along the rafters).

The distance between the rafters depends on the magnitude of the load on them, so it is not the same in different houses and the insulation must be adjusted for each attic individually. If thermal insulation is made with foam, then it must be made 2-3 mm larger than the opening so that the panel fits snugly into the seat and does not fall out.

And here, mineral wool you can do more by 5-7 cm, after all, it is a soft material, and even if this does not hold it between the beams, then glue strips of adhesive tape for temporary fixation.

Make sure that there are no gaps in the insulation anywhere, so if it is polystyrene, then blow them out with mounting foam, and compact the mineral wool with its own scraps. Pay attention to doors and windows - it is near them that most often there may be insufficiently tight blockage.

After installing the insulation with your own hands, you need to cover it with a layer of vapor-permeable film, and again, the rough side should go inward so that moisture moves towards the street. You just need to nail the insulation with a stapler to the wooden rafters of the attic.

You can also fix the film later by nailing it under the plasterboard, onto a metal crate.

Drywall frame

Well, how to sheathe an attic with drywall if there is no crate? That's right, it needs to be done and it is best obtained from metal profiles for drywall. For now, we are considering exactly the crate (not the partition), so for it we will need CD and UD profiles, as well as U-shaped metal hangers, not to mention self-tapping screws of various sizes for wood and metal.

CD profiles are available in lengths of 3 and 4 meters, and their width is 60 mm with a thickness of 27 mm. The thickness of the metal depends on the manufacturer and ranges from 0.4 to 0.7 mm, which mainly determines the price of the product. The UD is made of the same metal and has the same length, but the width and thickness are 27x27mm.

U-shaped hangers are used as consoles for fastening the battens for drywall, which, in turn, are attached to wooden rafters using self-tapping screws. But finishing the attic floor with drywall can also be done not only on the crate, but also with the help of partitions, for which the UW and CW profile configuration is used.

The CW and UW profiles used for partitions have the same thickness - 50 mm, but their width is 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm - you can choose any for the desired thickness of the future wall (in the photo above, the profile is 50 × 50 mm). Metal guides of any type are fastened together with small (11 mm) metal screws, popularly referred to as fleas.

Insulation is also used in partitions, but it already serves not for thermal insulation, but for sound dampening. That is, it is intended not only for soundproofing private room, but also to dampen the vibrations of the partition itself, because a hollow device made of metal and drywall, even with a slight impact, will make a booming sound.

Profiles that frame any openings should be strengthened wooden beams. For future installation of heating radiators or wall cabinets, the frame is reinforced with boards or OSB (for attaching brackets).

Advice. The subheading did not contain a specific description of the installation of a metal frame or crate, and this is not without reason, because the configuration of the room may require both vertical and horizontal placement of the plasterboard.
The most important thing is that at least 4 profiles (through 30 cm) fall on the plane of one sheet at a longitudinal intersection, and at least 6 at a transverse intersection (through 50 cm).

Installation of the HKP on the frame

• The filing of the attic with drywall begins with a whole sheet - the cut (extreme) pieces will be installed later. Please note that about 60 self-tapping screws should be spent on one GCR (30 cm apart), but much more is spent on the same area (3 m 2), consisting of pieces. The depth of sinking of the screw head under the plane should be 1-1.5 mm.

• The depth of immersion of the self-tapping screw under the drywall plane has great importance, because a hat that is flush or protruding at least a fraction of a millimeter will interfere with putty (grooves remain), and rusty spots appear when wallpaper is pasted.
  If the screw breaks through the top layer of cardboard and ends up in the body of the sludge, then the fixation will weaken several times. But 1-1.5 mm is just enough to close the metal with putty and hold the sheet, so use a special nozzle for drywall with a lampshade, size - PH-2.

• As an addition to the article, you can see a video clip on the same topic, but, nevertheless, it does not hurt to mention that the attic is subject to vibration under strong wind loads, so you should pay special attention to drywall joints.
  So, the usual sealing with putty or tile adhesive may not be enough, therefore, before puttying, seal the joint with serpentine adhesive tape for reinforcement.
  

Tip: if the drywall attic is highly susceptible to vibration, then sickles for reinforcing the joints may not be enough.
Take a paper bag from under the cement and cut it into strips 5-6 cm wide - stick them on the joints with PVA.
The corner joints of the sheets (the conjugation of the walls and the fracture of the roof) can generally be repaired not just with a tape, but with a sickle-cloth.

Conclusion

Any drywall in the attic can be used - ceiling, wall and moisture resistant, everything will depend on its intended purpose. Also, further finishing can be completely different, because sheets can be puttied, painted, wallpaper and ceramic tiles can be glued on them.

Finishing the attic with drywall provides a flat surface for any type of decorative coating, allows you to lay insulating, soundproof and vapor barrier materials, and makes it possible to maneuver when laying communications.

Attic floor

• Water resistance - spaces under the roof often have high humidity, in such conditions it is better to use gypsum boards reinforced with hydrophobic impregnation (GKLV - green);
• Fire resistance - to protect the wooden roof rafters, non-combustible GKL with fiberglass filler (red marker) are suitable;
• Manufacturers produce a modified type of drywall with a combination of properties and qualities inherent in fire-resistant and water-repellent boards;
• Acoustic drywall sheets have sound-absorbing characteristics.

Calculating the nominal load on the frame, take into account the weight of the GKL. A standard 12.5 mm thick gypsum board weighs approximately 10 kg. It is important to remember that specialized analogues of drywall have a larger mass.

The number of required sheets for cladding is calculated by dividing the area of ​​​​all surfaces that are planned to be sheathed with material by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone sheet. It is advisable to make a small supply of drywall.

An example of an attic interior

Materials, fixtures and tools

Before sheathing the attic with drywall, a set of measures is taken to select, purchase and prepare all Supplies, devices and related tools for installation work:

• Composition for sealing seams - 3.5-4 liters will go to 10 m² GKL;
• Putty knife;
• Reinforced material - about 3 m will go per 10 m² GKL;
• Corner with perforation;
• Metal profiles - straight and angular;
• Hangers;
• Hardware - self-tapping screws, screws, dowel-nails, rivets (it is better to use stainless steel grades so that rust spots do not form on the gypsum board);
• Pencil;
• Laser device or other analogue of the level - for marking and checking the axes;
• Carbide drills;
• Universal wrench - frame assembly and sheet fastening;
• Roulette;
• Cutting tool for metal;
• Screwdrivers different type and size;
• Crabs;
• Bulgarian - cutting the required segments of metal profiles;
• Saw on GKL;
• Drill with nozzles.

Technological progress of work

Finishing the attic with drywall involves the following steps:

• Preparing the attic-type space for finishing - they empty the room, clean the bases, carry out work to eliminate leaks in the roof, check the reliability of the beams and rafters of the roofing system;
• Design and calculation work;
• Perform markup according to the drawings;
• Mount the frame;
• Laying and wiring of communication systems;
• Installation drywall sheets;
• Corner protection;
• Preparation of surfaces for decorative finishing.

GKL cladding

Frame construction

The frame method is reliable, it is used to insulate attic floor dwellings. Frame installation is required:

• With too much attic space;
• If to inner lining roofs cannot be attached with drywall sheets;
• If an interior project of a complex or non-standard configuration is conceived.

Attics have a complex-broken character of surfaces. Wall bases are perpendicular to the floor or inclined at various degrees. Installation of the frame in accordance with the level of the planes and accurate measurement of surfaces using the building level and tape measure is the key to successful installation work on the construction of the frame. The better the frame is made, the longer the service life of drywall.

Metal profiles are fixed according to the markup. Holes are drilled on the floor and ceiling, equal to the holes on the metal rails. Direct fastening is carried out by means of hardware and brackets with an interval of 0.6-0.8 m.

Suspended consoles or brackets are mounted along vertical axes. Then, along the vertical markings, vertical rails are attached to the guides along the perimeter and suspensions.

Attic insulation

The algorithm for performing work on laying insulation boards, air conditioning and communications systems for sheathing material:

• Fasteners for pipe hangers;
• Installation of main clamps;
• Laying vapor barrier materials;
• Installation of holders (mushrooms) for insulation;
• Lighting wiring.

Attic floors are insulated:

• Mineral wool - rolled or tiled;
• Foam boards are a productive and popular material.

Stages of work

The insulation is laid freely or fastened between the sections of the frame:

• For liquid nails;
• adhesive composition;
• Fix wooden slats or pieces of a profile - preferred in terms of reliability and practicality of execution.

In all cases, the bookmark is performed so that there is an air gap between the drywall and the insulation.

Vapor barrier products are sold in rolls. Therefore, the material is cut for ease of use, the pieces are overlapped, and fixed to the base using a specialized stapler.

The final layer of the entire structure is a moisture vapor barrier membrane.

Facing works

Irregularly shaped attic spaces may have corner defects. Facing begins with a single sheet. Sheathe surfaces from below, side and front walls, then roof slopes, openings and go to corner connections, having previously completed the cut of the material.

Drywall sheets are installed in two ways:

• Vertically - in increments of 25-35 cm;
• Horizontally - in increments of 45-55 cm.

Install drywall sheets metal carcass with a screwdriver. Hardware is fixed perpendicular to the surface, sinking their heads into the material by a few millimeters.

Each new row of material is mounted in such a way that the seam lines do not continue the previous row. Between the sheets make gaps of 3-5 mm.

With two-layer sheathing, fastening is performed alternately. Fix the first layer, then the second.

I finish windows, arches, doors along the perimeter of the opening.

GKL ceiling is also mounted on a metal frame or tied to load-bearing beams roofs.

Simple and secure

If it is difficult to install a solid drywall slab between the beveled ceiling base and the beam, the material is then sawn into two parts. To do this, an incision is made along the intended line, then broken by pressing along the incision line.

Partitions are placed perpendicular to the sexual base, they are mounted with a profile step of 40-50 cm.

Holes for communications are made with a drill according to the marking; for this, a drywall sheet is placed on a flat surface.

At the last stage of work, perform:

• Sealing seams and joints with putty;
• Fill gaps in openings and fixation points with sealant;
• Strengthen corners;
• Puttying;
• All surfaces are primed.

Installation of plasterboard on rafter legs

This option is suitable for a small attic. For frameless cladding, plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 20 mm or more will be required.

After making sure that the rafters are installed firmly and securely, not damaged by rodents, not subject to mold and cracking, they proceed to fixing the drywall sheets directly to the roof rafters.

On the wall surfaces, gypsum boards are planted on a layer of glue. Self-tapping screws are also used for the ceiling. Altitude irregularities and differences are leveled with embedded rails.

Mounting on a wooden frame

The moisture content of the wood used is allowed in the range from 15 to 40%. Wooden elements are pre-dried, treated with antiseptics, fire retardants.

The parameters of the used rails are determined by the pitch of the rafters. With a step of 75-100 cm, elements with a section of 45x60 mm are used. The thickness of the plasterboard boards used is also taken into account.

Lathing with wooden slats is carried out transversely to the rafters. Gypsum boards are attached to them.

In contact with

Many of those who have a private house, do not know what to do with the attic. Someone leaves the repair of the attic in the end, using it as a large pantry, and someone cannot think of anything better than how to sew up the “uncomfortable” roof bevels with plasterboard, turning the attic into an ordinary small room.

We offer several ideas for using the attic space, which will make it comfortable and cozy, emphasizing all the advantages and charms of the premises of just this configuration.

Tip 1: Don't Forget the Windows
In order for the attic to become a fully livable room, it needs to be filled with as much air and light as possible. This is easiest done with windows. Windows can be either ordinary (for smooth walls) or special designs that are designed specifically for sloping walls in attics. The shape, style and design of windows depends only on your imagination. The main thing here is the size, because the larger the window in the attic, the more spacious the room will seem, and the less the sloping walls will “press” on you.

Photo of attic window decoration
Tip 2: Emphasize bevels
Remember how fashionable style is now alpine chalet. So sewing wooden beams supporting the roof under the lining or drywall will be just blasphemy. On the contrary, emphasize them, because wooden beams are perhaps the most interesting decoration any interior. Aged dark wood beams look especially impressive against the background of light walls. By the way, do not forget about the lighting, because the original and, most importantly, the right lighting works real miracles.

Photo of the design of the bevels of the attic

Tip 3: Fun walls
Most often, the attic is used as a bedroom, office or place for recreation and entertainment. Therefore, here it is simply necessary to move away from stereotypes and expand your imagination to its fullest. Get creative with wall decor: paint them in interesting colors, use unusual combinations of materials, play with textures, apply original decor- in general, do everything so that such an interesting room as an attic does not become boring and dull.

Photo of the design of the walls of the attic

Tip 4: Use low walls
Often, many complain that because of the sloping ceiling in the attic it is impossible to put ordinary furniture. But you can get creative with this. As an alternative to standard furniture in the interior of the attic, niches or built-in wardrobes, disassembled modular furniture or open shelves adjusted to the height of the walls can come out here. And in areas with a very low ceiling, a desktop, a bed or a couch for reading will fit perfectly. In such a room you can make a design attic room for a teenager, where children's furniture for a boy or girl fits well. The attic for a child can be decorated in cheerful and bright colors.

Photo design of low walls

Tip 5: Zone your space
Since the attic often occupies the entire floor under the roof and is perhaps the largest room in the house, the option of space zoning in this case is very relevant. At the same time, in order to keep the attic as spacious and not turn it into several small closets under the roof, it is better to zone it not with the help of plasterboard partitions, but by adopting numerous design ideas.

Photo arrangement of the attic floor
Below, using the example of real apartments, we propose to consider in more detail how you can design an attic space in an interesting and functional way.

Option number 1
In this case, the attic is reserved for the matrimonial bedroom. In addition to the bed, the owners placed low wardrobes and bookcases here. In addition, there is an opportunity to work indoors: two chairs, which are located in different corners, allow, if necessary, to retire while reading or working for both spouses at the same time.

Photo of the attic bedroom

Option number 2
And here the attic serves as a living room where you can work, sit with friends and at the same time captivate little children with something. Through the combination of white and blue flowers in the interior, the room seems larger, and the vertical stripes give it height.

Photo of the attic living room

Option number 3
This small attic with a rather low roof, the owners also turned it into a living room, where it is good to gather with family or friends in front of the fireplace. A small glass table in the corner does not clutter up the space at all and allows you to fully work at the computer. Pay attention to how well the furniture is chosen for such a low room. And the ceiling, despite the dense wood paneling, does not "crush" with its plane, thanks to the huge windows.

Photo of a small living room
Option number 4
And finally, a great example of how an entire apartment can be located in the attic room, in which, despite the sloping roof, everyone feels quite comfortable. Designed specifically for this apartment, the built-in shelves and cabinets are not much inferior to the usual ones in terms of convenience, but how beautiful and cozy the sloping vault looks in the living room. wooden beams warm honey color.

Photo of the attic living area