The internal insulation of the attic has an undeniable advantage - the possibility of carrying out thermal insulation work regardless of the season. However, this approach has several important nuances, ignoring which can nullify all efforts and financial investments. It is easier to prevent undesirable consequences than to eliminate them, agree?

We will tell you how to act correctly in order to avoid mistakes. In the article, we described the features of the use of different heat-insulating materials, gave advice on choosing the best insulation, and also told how to avoid condensation in the roofing cake.

Detailed insulation technology mansard roof will help to perform all the work on their own, without resorting to the help of specialists.

There are a lot of heaters. However, not all of them are recommended for installation in a residential attic. The attic is characterized by a fairly high humidity due to the rise of heated air from the lower floors of the cottage. Plus, one should not forget about environmental friendliness and material safety.

If the attic is non-residential, then due to natural ventilation through the vents, spotlights and dormer windows, the steam quickly disappears from it to the street. As a result, condensation does not form inside, and the rafter system is not exposed to the negative effects of excess moisture.

In the attic, the situation is different. When it is warmed, it is necessary to create a barrier for the heat to escape to the outside and reduce air exchange with the street. As a result, all the steam remains inside the attic rooms.

Therefore, if the insulation is not reliably protected from moisture, then it will not last long. After all, any heat-insulating material, after getting wet, partially or completely loses its properties.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to evaluate it:

• thermal conductivity;
• vapor permeability;
• volume weight;
• combustibility;
• soundproofing;
• environmental safety.

If you choose too heavy material, then the rafters will be overloaded. And the attic is often equipped from a non-residential attic. Rafter beams, in this case, are not designed for unnecessary additional loads. It's not worth trying your luck here.

In terms of thermal conductivity, most heaters on the market are similar. It is only necessary to choose the right thickness to achieve the required thermal insulation parameters.

It is not recommended to use sprayed polyurethane or foil polyethylene for insulation of the attic from the inside due to the high risk in case of making the slightest mistake when installing condensation directly on wooden rafters

Of the entire range of thermal insulation materials, mineral wool (basalt) and are most suitable for internal attic insulation. Moreover, the first option is more preferable than the second. Mineral wool is not combustible and has better sound insulation.

It is not worth taking glass wool because of its predisposition to crumbling. Small glass particles are very dangerous for humans. And ordinary foam is also not recommended for use in the attic. Compared to XPS, it is more flammable and environmentally harmful. In addition, it will have to be laid in a thicker layer.

Dew point problem

Ideally, the roof in the attic should be insulated from the outside at the stage of forming the roofing pie. However, often this is done the other way around from the inside, when the house is already covered with a roof. And here certain problems arise.

Correct and perfect roofing cake - several layers of different materials laid on top of the rafters tightly on top of each other without gaps. Such a sandwich guarantees that it will be located on its outer side. As a result, all the condensate formed outside will quickly evaporate into the atmosphere.

When insulating a mansard roof from the inside, it is extremely important to leave a gap between the insulation and the existing roof for ventilation and evaporation of the condensate formed due to temperature changes.

Making insulation from the inside, after the installation of the roof, it is impossible to form the exemplary roofing pie described above. It will not work to press the insulation against the roof so that there are no voids between them at all.

But steam always moves towards cold air. And then, each of the formed cavities will begin to accumulate condensate and moisture in itself. And this is a direct path to damage to the thermal insulation material and wooden elements. truss system.

At internal insulation in the attic, the dew point has to be shifted into the space between the laid roof and the insulation, leaving an additional gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation there. Only such a technology and such a cake will make it possible to avoid moistening the heat-insulating material.

In order to achieve proper air exchange in the under-roof space, it is recommended to install deflectors on the ridge and provide special holes in the eaves

To reduce the amount of water vapor in the insulation, its installation should be carried out using a vapor barrier film. A vapor barrier is mounted from the inside of the attic on top of the thermal insulation material.

The steam must first encounter this film and for the most part remain in the room. The less it gets into the insulation layer, the better.

Mansard roof insulation technology

To insulate the attic from the inside correctly, you need to create a cake of five layers, starting from the roof inward:

1. Ventilated air.
2. Wind-moisture insulation from a vapor-permeable membrane.
3. Vapor barrier.
4. Attic ceiling lining.

Vapor barrier is made of glassine, polyethylene or polypropylene film. Most the best option- special membranes, in which one side is rough and the other is smooth. With these materials, the risk of condensation directly on them is reduced to almost zero.

For a vapor barrier material, the vapor permeability should not exceed several tens of grams / m2 per day, for vapor-permeable membranes this figure is hundreds of grams / m2 per day and more - these films cannot be confused

For the organization of wind-moisture insulation, membranes are suitable:

• porous;
• two-layer film;
• three-layer superdiffusion;
• perforated.

Superdiffusion membranes will last the longest and are most effective. However, they are more expensive than other options.

At the same time, it is recommended to use perforated fabrics and films when insulating a residential attic only as a last resort. They are more designed for waterproofing cold sloped roofs in non-residential attics.

When installed with a heater in a warm room, these materials are often covered with frost in severe frosts, which reduces their vapor permeability to nothing.

Layer #1 - Ventilation underlays

Before you start insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands, you first need to treat the wood of the rafters with antiseptics and flame retardants. Only then will it be possible to start building heat-insulating cake.

It is best to mount the insulation from the inside of the attic on a special crate under the rafters, but most often this material, together with the upper vapor-permeable film, has to be laid between the rafters

If the insulation is knocked out from below the rafters, then the interior space of the attic will be reduced. The thickness of the heat-insulating cake often reaches 30–40 cm. If these centimeters are taken away from the top and sides, then the room may turn out to be too low and small.

At the same time, the installation option with a lining of the crate under the rafters and laying insulation on it eliminates the appearance of cold bridges. If mineral wool or EPPS is inserted between the beams, then they themselves and the gaps that form over time in the heat-insulating layer near them will draw heat from the attic.

In order for ventilation in the under-roof space to be in accordance with the requirements of SNiPs, deflectors or other air outlets should be provided on the ridge.

The steam, together with the air currents, must rise to the highest point of the roof and leave from there completely outside. Moreover, this should happen without obstacles and as quickly as possible.

Before stuffing the membrane onto the rafters, you must first correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation. If the thermal insulation layer is more sizes rafter beams, you will have to build them up with bars. The main insulation material should be inside this frame, and not protrude from it.

Layer #2 - Vapor Permeable Membrane

In the upper part of the roofing cake being formed, there should be a material with high vapor permeability from the insulation to the street and high waterproofing in the opposite direction. The task of this membrane is not to prevent the release of steam from the thermal insulation, while not letting water and moisture into it, which can drip from a leaky roof.

Most best material for this vapor-permeable layer, which also performs the functions of wind and moisture protection, these are superdiffusion membranes. They are not clogged with dust and ice formed from condensate in severe frosts.

Laying of such membranes is carried out horizontal stripes overlap 10–15 cm of the upper row to the lower row from the outside. As a result, a single canvas should be obtained, if drops of water fall on it through the roof from the street, they would flow down without falling into the insulation.

The joints of the rows of the membrane from the inside of the attic are glued with mounting tape. It should be taken under the same brand as the breathable film.

The composition of the adhesive and the material of the membrane from one manufacturer are selected so as not to harm each other and to hold securely in the glued state for many years. If they are taken under different brands, then problems are possible.

Layer #3 - the main insulation

The thickness of the insulation is selected in accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003. To this end, appropriate calculations are carried out, which take into account climatic conditions, features of the design and construction of the roof, as well as the characteristics of the heat-insulating material and the inner lining of the attic.

It is not worth laying insulation with an excessively thick layer because of wasted money, and its too thin layer may not provide the required thermal protection

Manufacturers of thermal insulation give in the instructions for the material sold and post on their official websites detailed recommendations for determining this thickness. It is best to focus on these calculations.

Installation of insulation is carried out from the inside of the attic on top of the laid vapor-permeable membrane. If mineral wool is chosen, then it must be cut into pieces with dimensions 2-3 cm wider than the gaps between the rafters or the battens. The mineral wool should enter between them with a slight pressure and stay there due to the expansion.

EPS will have to be laid on top of the rafters, and not between them. The plates of this insulation are mounted end to end to each other. If you put them inside the rafters, like mineral wool, then through holes will appear in the heat-insulating layer.

Some craftsmen fill such gaps mounting foam from a balloon. However, this should not be done. This can lead to damage to the membrane due to the chemical reaction of the components of the sprayed foam and the material of the vapor-permeable film.

It is better to take 10-25 cm from the attic from above and from the sides to the crate with XPS, rather than get a layer of protection with through holes.

Layer #4 - vapor barrier film

On top of the insulation on the inside of the attic, a vapor barrier made of glassine or polypropylene or polyethylene film should be laid. The task of this layer is to keep water vapor out of the room into the insulation. It is laid in the same way as the very first vapor-permeable coating.

The joints of the vapor barrier should be given maximum attention - if you leave even the slightest gaps in them, then the steam will find these gaps and wet the heat-insulating material

In addition to the usual film, you can also take foil. The extra layer of foil will reflect most of the heat energy back into the attic, reducing heating costs. In this case, the installation of such a film is carried out with “aluminum” inside.

The vapor barrier is fastened with stapler staples or carnations with a wide hat. And in places where the film adjoins cables, pipes and structural elements skylights, it should be additionally reinforced with a special one-sided tape with a heat-reflecting coating.

Layer #5 - ceiling sheathing

At the end of the attic insulation, the crate is stuffed under the cladding. It is made of bars with a thickness of 15-25 mm, so that a small ventilation gap remains above the vapor barrier.

Condensation due to improper vapor barrier and how to get rid of it:

At self-insulation attic from the inside, when the roof is already covered, it is important to choose the right thickness of the heat-insulating material. And more importantly, to correct installation without gaps in the vapor barrier and wind-moisture insulation.

If the protective films on both sides of the insulation have holes, it will get wet and stop protecting the house from the cold.

Do you have experience with attic insulation from the inside? Or want to ask questions on the topic? Please comment on the publication, share your knowledge and participate in discussions. Block feedback located below.

Heating your own home, especially in the cold season, is not very cheap. Moreover, its effectiveness drops if certain conditions are not met.

Many, wanting to make the house warmer, focus, for the most part, on its walls. This is unlikely to save you, you will still have to spend a lot on heating. Hot air will escape, rising up, under the roof.

Before spending money on heating and heating the roof, it must be insulated, taking into account the construction of a residential attic floor and all the features of its operation.

Let's say you don't plan on making a mansard roof habitable. However, in this case, thermal insulation is indispensable here. So that the rest of the house area does not suffer from heat loss due to the cold attic, you need to insulate the entire attic floor, it is enough to make only the attic floor insulation.

Let's still consider with you the option when you still plan to equip the attic for winter residence. But in this case, you can’t do without a properly insulated roof.

Dependence on climatic conditions

Mansard roof insulation materials and their possible uses largely depend on the region where you live. In SNIP you can see the average temperatures of your climate zone. In the event that the temperature in winter is not sky-high, then there will be no need to insulate "in Siberia". And, accordingly, vice versa. The lower the temperature in the region, the more seriously it is necessary to approach the issue of thermal insulation of the attic room.

Below is a list of parameters that must be considered when choosing a thermal insulation material:

• Materials used in the construction of walls
• Pediment (its thickness)
• climate zone
• Type of roof - mansard, pitched, etc.
• The existing load on the roof and floors

An insulated mansard roof needs high-quality thermal insulation materials that will perform their functions well. But it is possible to insulate the attic floor with the help of simple materials, such as expanded clay filler and even sawdust.

The choice of material for insulation of the attic floor

The most important criteria to take into account are:

• Service life declared by the manufacturer
• Thermal conductivity values ​​(they should be as low as possible)
• Indifference from insects, rodents and all kinds of fungi, but the material must be environmentally friendly and safe for you
• The incombustibility of materials is perhaps the most serious requirement for insulation, it cannot be neglected

You have to do quite a lot of work. After all, a residential attic needs insulation of roof slopes, ceilings, walls and floors. Otherwise, the insulation will turn out to be an unnecessary waste of money, and the result will not be achieved - the attic will remain uninhabitable in winter.

All of the above work is carried out from inside the attic room, and, of course, this will reduce the amount of living space.

To avoid a large loss of attic space, you should choose materials with a minimum thickness, but good thermal insulation qualities.

You should also find out the approximate weight of the material. After all, it will be necessary to calculate the final load on the rafters and beams. This is necessary to understand whether they will withstand, or additional strengthening of the roof structure will be required.

Some heaters require the construction of additional structures made of wood and chipboard, and this creates an additional load on the roof. Also keep in mind that some heaters without proper waterproofing can add weight.

Mounting methods. A plate of ordinary polystyrene is glued, or attached to the surface with screws. For mineral wool and bulk materials, the board frame described above is required.

Pay special attention to waterproofing. After all, rain and snow are in contact, first of all, with the roof, creating the danger of moisture penetrating inside.
Do not think that waterproofing will take you too much energy. After all, materials that are not afraid of moisture have long been invented. Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam are a prime example of this.

Heaters like mineral wool should be waterproofed with foil or film. When moisture gets in, this material will “gain weight”, turning into a wet lump. This is "cured" only by a replacement, which entails additional expenses.

Also keep in mind that a number of heat-insulating materials with a constant temperature difference lose their properties or are completely destroyed.

How to insulate the roof of the attic

The owner of the house can choose a heater for every taste and a pocket for arranging his attic. Expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and foam glass will perfectly cope with their direct duties, and you will not be left without pants.

Polystyrene and expanded polystyrene are leading in the list of budget heaters. You can buy it in plates of the required size.

This material for insulating a mansard roof is 90% air, and therefore their thermal conductivity tends to zero.

Styrofoam has one significant disadvantage - many of its modifications are flammable. But at the same time, the load on the roof will be minimal, the waterproofing qualities are at their best, and it is absolutely not susceptible to attacks by rodents and mold.

In order for the material to have no cons at all, purchase polystyrene foam, which contains an ingredient that makes this material non-combustible. The worst thing that can happen to him is smoldering, but it is unlikely to lead to a fire.

Mineral wool has excellent environmental performance, being practically harmless to you. Materials of this kind are the product of processing other things harmless to humans, such as rocks.

It does not burn, perfectly soundproofs the space, and the service life will pleasantly surprise you. But there are still disadvantages to this method of thermal insulation.

As already mentioned, mineral wool is able to absorb moisture and become unusable if it is not waterproofed with a film or foil. This leads to the loss of body-insulating and heat-conducting qualities.

During the installation of such material, be sure to protect yourself from getting the smallest particles of the material on the skin and mucous membranes. Work in a mask and gloves, do not allow gaps between the elements of clothing. If the installation technology is observed, glass wool can last up to half a century.

As we wrote above, if your mansard roof is not planned for living, then the process is greatly simplified, being reduced to thermal insulation of ceilings alone.

Stages of floor insulation:

• Installing a wooden frame
• We fall asleep in the intervals of expanded clay, sawdust, or we lay mineral wool
• We put the insulation in several layers - this is necessary to cover the frame from wooden slats
• We waterproof the thermal insulation with a film, or with the help of foil, both from below and from above
• We finish with the flooring of boards for the subsequent installation of flooring

With thermal insulation finished, now we have an additional room that can be used in the summer.

What to do if you plan to use the mansard roof for year-round living?

Thermal insulation in this case will be much more serious.

It will cover all the designs of the attic space:

• roof slopes
• gable structure
• floors

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic diagram

Insulation of the gable of the mansard roof can also be done outside the house. We suggest doing this with polystyrene foam. Installation of plates is carried out with the help of glue, and the design is reinforced with nails "umbrellas".

For further finishing of the insulated wall, we will apply plaster. Before applying the plaster, a special mesh should be used to strengthen the plaster.

Such thermal insulation of the mansard roof from the outside will not steal part of the usable area from you. The service life of this design will be measured in tens of years.

But let's get back to the question of how to insulate a mansard roof from the inside, since unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) it will not work to insulate the roof from the outside.

• First, we stretch the waterproofing material - this is necessary to protect our thermal insulation from moisture
• Preparing insulation - if you use rolled insulation, then it should be cut into pieces with an ordinary clerical knife
• We lay the insulation between the roof rafters, and in case of cracks, we seal them with adhesive tape or foam sealant
• We close the laid insulation with waterproofing ( different kinds films and foils)
• The last step is the cosmetic finish of the attic, on top of the thermal insulation material

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic roof is not a difficult process, but it requires strict adherence to instructions. Otherwise, moisture condensation on the surfaces of the attic awaits you when the temperature regime changes.

The presence of ventilation is very desirable in this case, because excess moisture can find a way out. A properly made waterproofing will not allow the insulation to absorb water.

Using heaters that are not exposed to moisture, you save yourself from additional work for waterproofing.

Nevertheless, ventilation is extremely important. Vapors will circulate, passing unhindered through ceilings and walls.

Do not forget about such an excellent insulation for a mansard roof as polyurethane foam. It is easily applied to the surface to be thermally insulated by spraying. When hardened, this material forms an almost perfect surface, without flaws. It will fill all the gaps and cracks. Moisture is absolutely not terrible for polyurethane foam, and therefore its service life will pleasantly surprise you. In the next 30-50 years, you will not have to remember about insulation!

Approach the process creatively, but wisely. The reward for your construction exploits will be warm room under the mansard roof. And your caring hostess will turn it into a piece of paradise!

Do-it-yourself attic insulation video

For a private house, a very reasonable solution would be to insulate the attic roof. Firstly, you use the area more rationally - thanks to the insulation of the roof, the attic does not turn into a large refrigerator for the winter.

There you can arrange an office, workshop, children's playroom or whatever your heart desires. Secondly, you save fuel - through a cold attic, the house loses up to a quarter of all heat, and, of course, you need to heat more and more often. Therefore, the question of how to properly insulate a mansard roof occupies many homeowners.

If you decide to insulate the roof at the design stage, so much the better - then the insulation technology is determined already in the process of building a house, and thus you get “maneuvering space”. In this case, you will have the opportunity to think in advance what suits you best - insulation of the attic roof from the inside or outside - and choose exactly those methods and materials that are best suited for this.

If you are dealing with an already finished building, which it was decided to improve, the only option left is to insulate the mansard roof from the inside. And here the question naturally arises, how best to do this. Certainly, good professional, for which the thermal insulation of the mansard roof is a common job, it will do everything quickly and without problems.

But if you hire a specialist without recommendations, then there can be no complete confidence in the highest possible quality of the result. In addition, it is too expensive for many to use the services of hired workers. And finally, the last argument in favor of insulating the roof of the attic from the inside is just very nice to do something with your own hands.

Where to begin?

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic? First of all, not to be careless and not to succumb to illusions is a difficult, time-consuming and costly job. Therefore, it is better to spend more time preparing the project and drawing up a detailed estimate than to insulate the roof of the attic somehow, and then suffer in a cold or damp room and endlessly repair your house due to condensation that destroys wooden structures.

When preparing for insulation work, it should be borne in mind that the configuration broken roof in terms of arranging a residential attic, it provides great opportunities compared to a gable roof, since with such a roof contour, the usable volume of the room increases significantly.

How to choose a heater?

The first step should be the proper selection of materials. Choose a roof insulation - not like that simple task as it may seem. The choice of thermal insulation on the market is huge, but you need to choose one for the attic that will provide a stable level of humidity in the room and the absence of sudden temperature fluctuations.

The best insulation should have the following qualities:

• low thermal conductivity, i.e. high heat retention;
• low hygroscopicity, that is, resistance to moisture absorption - a wet insulation significantly loses quality;
• the absence of toxic components in the composition and environmental friendliness - after all, we are talking about a residential area;
• Fire safety.

At the same time, the heat-insulating material for the roof must be vapor-permeable, that is, it must not prevent the free exit of water vapor from the room. If this requirement is neglected, the result will be the accumulation of condensate and a “bathhouse” atmosphere in the room. This in itself is not very pleasant, not to mention the dangers of dampness for attic walls and ceilings.

Another important condition is that the material for insulating the roof of the attic should hold well on inclined surfaces and not deform over time. Finally, it must also meet the requirements of sound insulation - if this point is left unattended, then during heavy rain or, even more so, hail, the upper floor will be unusable.

Considering that metal tiles or metal corrugated board, which are now most often used as roofing, not only perfectly conduct sound, but even amplify it, you will not be able to sleep, talk or watch TV when something knocks on the roof.

To choose a heater for a mansard roof, you will have to study the many materials that it offers. modern market. Almost all heaters have their advantages and disadvantages - for example, ordinary foam plastic, valued by many for its cheapness and ease of processing, is bad because it is not “transparent” enough for moisture rising from the room along with the air. In other words, it is better not to use it for rooms where you plan to stay for a long time, for example, for bedrooms.

Glass wool is traditionally used as a heater, but at the same time it quickly shrinks and loses its shape, and with it - thermal insulation qualities. The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam, which is becoming increasingly popular, is its inability to withstand fire, as well as its rather low vapor permeability. In addition, this material requires scrupulous preliminary calculations - the fact is that when it hardens, its structure expands, due to which the entire structure can “creep”. It is necessary to take into account the strength of the load-bearing elements with the utmost precision.

The better to insulate the attic roof, everyone decides for himself, based on his capabilities and the intended purpose of the room. From the point of view of many experts, one of the best roofing thermal insulation can be called basalt slabs- this material is durable and elastic, perfectly retains heat, does not lose its qualities during operation and is not prone to moisture accumulation. Another undoubted advantage is ease of installation. It is due to the fact that basalt slabs have the optimal width for fastening between the rafters and they do not have to be cut to the desired size.

Main Rule

Even if you have already decided which insulation is best for you, it is too early to start the work itself. First you need to deal with the sequence of these works, and for this you need to get an idea as a whole about the structure of the insulated roof. Or, as professionals say, a roofing "pie".

Going from top to bottom, the components of the "pie" are as follows:

• the roof itself (profiled, tile, slate);
• crate;
• counterlattice;
• waterproofing material;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• ceiling finish.

That is, when installing thermal insulation, the main rule should be taken into account first of all - the insulation must be protected both from external (atmospheric) moisture and from internal moisture rising from the room. Otherwise, the accumulation of condensate is inevitable, which will eventually lead to the most disastrous consequences not only for the under-roof space, but for the whole house.

If you decide to insulate the finished attic roof from the inside, then, as can be seen from the list above, you already have all the layers of the “pie”, up to and including waterproofing. It remains to lay the insulation, cover it with a vapor barrier membrane - and you can finish the ceiling. It would seem that everything is simple. But here you need to strictly follow the established rules, otherwise all your work will be in vain.

Work order

Even before you buy materials, you will need to calculate the attic roof area that you want to insulate. When calculating, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe gables must also be taken into account - even the most carefully insulated roof will not have an effect if the cold comes from the ends.

Only when the measurements are completed and everything you need is purchased in the right amount, you can proceed to installation work. Carefully study the instructions for all materials - how to roll them out, how to fasten them, etc. To fix the insulating films and insulation, stock up in advance with the right amount of wooden slats or a construction stapler.

Waterproofing

If you start with waterproofing (let's say you haven't installed it yet), the most important point, which is worth paying attention to, is that between it and the roofing material there must be an air gap of at least three centimeters. More is possible, less is not.

This is necessary for proper ventilation of the under-roof space - if air flows do not pass freely between the waterproofing film and the inside of the coating, this will lead to condensation. And as a result, the insulation, when wet, will lose its beneficial features, the wooden parts of the structure will begin to rot, the metal ones will rust, and in the end, such negligence will shorten the life of your home.

For the same reasons, it is categorically not recommended to use polyethylene and other "non-breathing" materials as waterproofing. Nowadays, the building market offers a wide range of special waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes designed specifically for this purpose and providing an optimal balance between moisture permeability from the inside and impermeability from the outside.

thermal insulation

Next, the heater is installed. Attach it strictly according to the instructions. If you use basalt, keep in mind that it holds well between the rafters due to its elasticity, but over time, the elasticity of the material will decrease somewhat. Therefore, it does not seem appropriate to put it without fixation at all.

vapor barrier

A vapor barrier membrane is applied to the insulation, and only after that the ceiling covering is mounted.

Conclusion

How to insulate a mansard roof is generally clear. The main rules here, as with any construction work- thoroughness, accuracy, accuracy. Follow the correct sequence during installation, follow the rules for working with materials, buy insulation and membranes only from trusted sellers and manufacturers. And then your warm attic will delight you for many more years.

The size of suburban areas and the desire of their owners to use the fertile soil layer to the maximum convinces them to make decisions on expanding usable areas in a vertical rather than horizontal direction. It is easier and more profitable to equip an attic above the bathhouse than to attach an additional rest room to it or build a separate house. True, this option will be acceptable only if there is more than 50% of the useful under-roof space with a height of 2.5 m, and if the ceiling above the bath is designed so that you can safely walk along its upper plane. In the presence of the above prerequisites, the insulation of the attic will turn it into an excellent living compartment.

• Let's start with the fact that the configuration of the roof is far from the shape of a classic cube. Insulation will have to be mounted on inclined surfaces. And since we are considering the insulation of the attic from the inside, it is impossible not to take into account the complexity of installing soft and flexible roll materials.
• Recall that the vast majority of the area of ​​the upper fence is roof structure with truss system. Its coating is made of extremely light materials with high waterproofing qualities, but also with considerable thermal conductivity. The wooden elements of the lathing of the truss structure are laid with gaps that do not form a thermal barrier.

• We take into account that in the attic floor there is not only a roof surface, but also at least two gables and a valley. Leaving them without insulation or poorly insulating them means reducing all efforts to zero in general.
• Let's not forget that the roofing material, which does not allow atmospheric moisture to pass through, at the same time prevents the release of fumes that are natural for a bath and not only for it.
• We will ensure the safety of the use of residential premises by insulating the roof of the attic with materials with the environmental and hygienic characteristics required for housing arrangement.

Summing up the above criteria, we will draw up a kind of formula from the requirements that the thermal insulation system under construction must meet. According to the tasks set before the insulation, we will select the material and find out all the technological nuances. In order for thermal insulation to work effectively, it is necessary that:

• layer of insulation completely covered internal surfaces without "holes" in a kind of carpet, so that there is no weaknesses in the form of an unprotected ridge and gables not covered by an insulator;
• the insulating material, resisting the attacks of the cold atmospheric front from the outside and the warm wet front from the inside, was protected from the condensate formed as a result of their confrontation;
• moisture did not accumulate on the outer surface of the heat-insulating layer, which was not let through by the waterproofing roofing, so that excess moisture was removed through the ventilation ducts;
• light roofing insulation was equipped with wind protection, which prevents heat from blowing out of the attic on windy days;
• the material is suitable for technical, technological and sanitary-hygienic parameters.

The listed requirements are a detailed answer to the question "how to properly insulate the attic." If the thermal insulation system meets all conditions, then it will serve for a long time and work efficiently.

Choosing the right heater

From a technological point of view, slabs are best suited to create a thermal insulation system from the inside. Using a shape-holding material is easier, faster and more convenient to do-it-yourself attic insulation with a minimum number of additional fixing devices. For their correct installation longitudinal bars are nailed to the rafters with dimensions that allow for a ventilation gap. The outer plane of the bars must coincide with the outer plane of the elements of the truss system, the inner plane of the heat-insulating material must coincide with the inner plane of the rafters.

Note. If the power of the selected insulation is greater than the width of the rafter, each of the elements of the rafter system will have to be nailed or installed on the screws with an additional beam. Wooden additions must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

In any case, both with sufficient and insufficient width of the rafters, the ventilation space between the insulation and the roofing material must be left.

The indicators of the heat engineering qualities of the material determine the climatic features of the region. The collection of building codes under the number 23-02-2003 will help to find them out. According to the indicator specified in the SNiP, it is necessary to select the material.

• Styrofoam is a budget material and convenient way insulation. Lightweight slabs will be easy to install, the thermal insulation system will slightly increase the weight of the roof. However, the weak ability to conduct steam and attractiveness as a delicacy for mice make you think about whether it is worth it to insulate the attic with foam.
• Minvata is also a convenient and democratic option. Cut to size a couple of cm more than the gap between the rafters, the plates are easy to install. Before installation, the insulation element must be slightly compressed and positioned in the required place. Having straightened out, elastic mineral wool will firmly “sit” in its nest. Glass wool can be used as an almost equivalent alternative.

• Expanded polystyrene is usually laid on top of the truss system, forming a ventilation gap by installing a counter-batten between the insulation boards and the roofing. It is not suitable for insulating the roofing system from the inside, but can be used to insulate gables.
• Polyurethane foam - easily applied to the surface of any complexity by spraying. Contractor with portable installation, which supplies foamed insulation under pressure, are subject to planes with any slope. Attic insulation with polyurethane foam will create a monolithic layer without the slightest gaps. In addition, a vapor barrier layer protecting interior decoration from the effects of condensation.
• Ecowool is a heat insulator from the category of sprayed materials. It is similar in properties to wood, it contains an antiseptic that prevents damage to the insulation layer and the wood in contact with it. Just like the previous analogue, it creates a continuous cover that does not sag during many years of use. To insulate with ecowool, it will be necessary to mount a hemmed ceiling and install a crate for attaching a vapor barrier material to it.
• Foil materials that work not only as a heater, but also as a mirror reflector of the heat that seeks to go outside. In order for the foil heat insulator to work perfectly, it is necessary to deploy it during installation with an aluminum layer inside the room and leave a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.

The list is quite sufficient to have something to focus on, but mineral wool is recognized as the most popular material for insulation from the inside. Spraying with polyurethane foam is popular, but not available to everyone due to the lack of an apparatus, which, however, can be rented from a construction organization for a while. It remains only to figure out how to insulate the attic with your own hands and get an excellent result.

What should be the correct constructive pie?

An exaggerated thermal insulation system is the following constructive pie, if you start listing the layers from the side of the equipped space:

• Plasterboard cladding.
• Vapor control layer, preferably a variant of the membrane type. It is a continuous shell created from strips of rolled material laid with a 10-centimeter overlap. Cloths are fastened along horizontal and vertical joints with a special adhesive tape.
• A crate that performs three functions. The slats attached across the rafters hold the insulation, serve as the basis for fixing the vapor barrier and form a ventilation space, which is especially necessary when using foil material.
• Insulation, laid in one or more layers, depending on the thermal effect created. When insulating the attic from the side of the room, it is mounted between the rafters.
• A waterproofing layer that protects the insulation from getting wet, which results in a decrease in thermal properties.

Note. Builders who thoroughly know how to insulate the attic are strongly advised to leave a ventilation gap between the heat-insulating material and waterproofing. According to technological standards, its absence is considered a gross mistake.

• Another counter-lattice that creates a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing material. Ventilation in this case is necessary to remove moisture accumulating on the waterproofing membrane. To remove moisture, holes are provided in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base of the slopes and in the region of the valley. The width of the ventilation gap is determined by the roofing material. If the roof is covered with tiles, slate, corrugated board or corrugated ondulin, it is enough to leave 25 mm if flat material without a profile relief, 50 mm must be left.
• Windproof vapor barrier equipping the ventilation space. It is needed to preserve heat in the case of active ventilation in the ventilation gap. Stacked over rafter legs, fastened with rails, on top of which the roofing is mounted.

By doing the attic insulation with your own hands, observing all the subtleties, the owner of a bathhouse with an attic will provide himself with a comfortable living space that eliminates the need to build on suburban area house. To equip a mansard roof for housing, you do not need to obtain permits and seek the consent of neighbors. But the benefit and economic effect is obvious.

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The use of attic space for residential has long become familiar to most domestic developers. Due to this, it is possible to obtain a completely comfortable living space with minimal financial costs. True, for comfortable living one very important condition must be met - to properly insulate the roof. This is the only way to not only minimize heat losses during the heating season, but also maintain a favorable microclimate in the rooms.

Currently, the construction industry produces a wide range of heaters with high heat saving rates. To facilitate acceptance optimal solution, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the performance characteristics of each of them.

Builders use two ways to insulate the roof of the attic, each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Warming outside

The arrangement of the roofing pie takes place in the following sequence: installation of the rafter system, vapor barrier from the side of the attic, laying insulation, waterproofing (wind protection), lathing and counter lathing, roofing materials.

To the advantages of this method includes the ability to qualitatively control each technological operation and, if problems are detected, to correct them in a timely manner.

But there is also a serious drawback. If during the laying of the insulation (mineral wool) it rains, then very big troubles will arise. Cotton wool quickly absorbs a lot of water, and dries without dismantling for a very long time. The only one best option– take out the materials and dry them on a flat area. But during dismantling, a lot of mineral wool is damaged, it needs to be replaced, and this significantly increases the cost of the roof.

And one more problem. Wet cotton wool bends so much that there is a possibility of damage to the integrity of the vapor barrier. This layer must be airtight, otherwise moisture freely enters the insulation with all extremely negative consequences.

Warming from the inside

The order of arrangement of the roofing pie changes. After the construction of the truss system, waterproofing, lathing and counter lathing are laid and roofing materials are installed. On this you can take a big break - the attic is completely protected from precipitation.

Builders are quietly engaged in other internal work, further warming does not depend on the weather and can be performed at any convenient time. From the side of the attic, a heater is installed, fixed in niches between the rafter legs and sealed with a vapor barrier.

How is vapor barrier different from waterproofing? What kind of material is vapor barrier and wind protection? Why choose membranes? Look for answers to these questions in the article on our website. Peculiarities various materials and rules for their installation.

The advantage is obvious - precipitation does not negative impact on the quality and timing of the construction of a warm roof. The only, and then very conditional, drawback is that it is difficult to control the gap between the wind protection and the insulation. But this is not critical for two reasons:

1. First, experienced roofers have their own methods for checking the distance between the insulation and the windscreen.
2. Secondly, there are the most modern membranes that can be laid right next to mineral wool, their effectiveness is not reduced by this.

To insulate a mansard roof, several types of materials can be used. The specific choice should take into account the cost of insulation, the climatic zone of the building location and the wishes of the customer.

What materials can insulate the roof of the attic

A wide selection of heaters puts inexperienced developers in a difficult position. It is difficult for them to find objective information, each manufacturer heavily advertises only their products. And advertising is often not entirely true. In the table below, we will try to give objective performance characteristics of each type of insulation materials.

Type of insulation	Description of physical and performance properties
	Quite often used material for warming various structural elements building. There are species that are highly resistant to open fire and do not exceed the permissible sanitary standards for the release of chemical compounds. Such parameters made it possible to use this material in residential construction, although not on all architectural elements of the building. The advantages of polystyrene are low cost, high manufacturability, and the complete absence of water absorption. The latter property makes it possible to achieve significant additional savings. financial resources on roof insulation - there is no need to install a vapor barrier, a control lath for ventilation of the under-roof space and wind protection (hydro protection). The disadvantage is that for unknown reasons this material is severely damaged by rodents, because of this it is necessary to provide a special set of measures to prevent them from entering the heat-insulating layer, but this is not difficult to do, the materials are cheap.
	The insulation is made on the basis of foam, the difference is increased strength parameters. For warming mansard roofs physical strength does not matter, but because of this, expanded polystyrene costs much more than polystyrene. Another disadvantage is that increased strength increases thermal conductivity, and therefore extruded polystyrene foam is inferior to polystyrene foam in terms of the effectiveness of roof insulation.
	Recently, it has been very popular among developers, but some professional builders are very critical of this material. There are two positive qualities mineral wool: high resistance to open fire and complete environmental protection. But these advantages can be considered conditional for several reasons. ● Firstly, if there is a big fire, then there is no difference how the roof of the attic is insulated, in any case the house will burn down completely. ● Secondly, from the inside of the attic room, they are finished with dense materials, which completely eliminates the penetration of harmful chemical substances inside the rooms. You need to know that not only polystyrene, but everything emits aldehydes plastic products, furniture varnish, etc. But no one lacquered furniture does not take out into the street, is not afraid of aldehydes. The disadvantages of mineral wool include high cost and significant weight, hygroscopicity, air purge (heat is removed). Pressed mineral wool has the same disadvantages as rolled, only in an enlarged form.
	The advantages include the complete tightness of the insulation, between the foam and wooden structures there are no gaps. The disadvantages are the unevenness of the layer in thickness. Sealed polyurethane foam does not require protection against vapor penetration. This method of insulation is recommended for use on roofs with soft roof, a continuous crate is made for them, and this required condition. Its surface is smooth and without cracks, which allows you to apply liquid foam.

We specifically do not give comparative indicators of the thermal conductivity of various materials, they are almost the same and in practice the differences are imperceptible.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials