DIY garage construction. DIY frame garage: step by step instructions with a photo report How to make a frame for a garage

For the construction of this type of building, it is not at all necessary to use expensive building materials. When building a garage with your own hands, slag or foam blocks are most often used. In this article, we will describe the stages of planning a garage construction.

Depth and type of foundation

When choosing it, the weight of the structure and the type of soil must be taken into account. When erecting walls from cinder blocks, it is sufficient to arrange a shallow strip or columnar base. It can be poured out of concrete or built from the same blocks.

But, if hollow structures are used for the construction of walls, then for arranging the foundation you will need full-bodied cinder blocks... The foundation of them is capable of withstanding a structure weighing up to 100 tons.

Trench preparation

Marking the foundation for the garage

Before starting work, you need to decide on the width and length of the structure. There are a lot of drawings and photos of a garage built with your own hands. For a passenger car of standard dimensions, it will be enough to erect a building measuring 3x6 m. In width, it is necessary to leave a margin of 70 cm for ease of passage and arrangement of racks. If it is planned to attach a workshop to the garage, then the length or width will increase accordingly. The acceptable height of such a structure is 2.3 m.

When choosing a place for a garage, be sure to check the communications plan so as not to damage the water and gas pipes. To mark the future trench, use metal rods or strong wooden stakes with pointed ends. They are placed at the corners and sides of the future foundation every 1.5-2 m. A strong cord is pulled tightly between them. To obtain an ideal rectangle, it should be extended from the corners as well - the diagonals should turn out to be equal in size and have the same intersection angles.

The trench is dug manually - when using the technique, the soil will crumble. After its excavation to a depth of 70-80 cm (on clayey soils by 150 cm), the earth should be carefully compacted. For problem-free soils, there is no great need for this. On weak soils, this procedure is mandatory. With good compaction of sandy soil, sandy loam or loam, subsidence can be up to 0.5 m.

If an inspection pit is provided in the garage, a foundation pit is first prepared for it. Such a pit is strengthened with temporary formwork, and only then they begin to prepare a trench for the foundation.

Laying blocks for the foundation

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Types of strip foundation

Laying is done in a checkerboard pattern so that each of the blocks of the next row falls on the seam of the previous row. To receive robust design the vertical and horizontal rows are verified by the building level. The height of the foundation must be calculated so that it rises 0.7 m above the surface.

The laid out base must be reinforced with a plaster mesh. It is attached to a cement mortar 2 cm thick. To protect the base from moisture, it is covered with liquid bitumen. On top of it, a double layer of roofing material or other roll-up waterproofing is attached. After the foundation is completely ready, the space between it and the ground is covered with earth and compacted tightly.

For heaving soils and with a close location of groundwater, the use of a block foundation is undesirable. Indeed, when the soil moves in a horizontal direction, the masonry, and the cinder blocks themselves, can collapse.

Gate installation

They are installed even before the construction of the building begins. For the manufacture of the gate frame, a metal corner is used. An I-beam is laid on top so that it goes into the walls by 20 cm.

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Ready-made swing, metal gates

To firmly attach the door frame to it, it is necessary to weld metal 12-mm rods 40 cm long, which will later be laid in the seams of the walls. To do this, you need to accurately calculate at what distance you need to attach the rods.

After aligning the structure and checking the horizontal and vertical position, it is embedded in cement and temporarily fixed with wooden braces. Before installing the gate, be sure to check if there are any obstacles to opening in the form of buildings or trees.

Calculation of the required number of blocks

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First you need to know the perimeter of the walls. We need to add the length and width of the building and multiply their sum by 2. For a standard garage of 3x6 m, the perimeter will be (3 + 6) x 2 \u003d 18 m.

Now you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls. Let's say their height is 2.3 m. We multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height of the building. The area will be 18 x 2.3 \u003d 41.4 sq. m.

The standard size of the cinder block is 0.19 x 0.39 m. Let's multiply these numbers. Its side area will be 0.0741 sq. m. Now it remains to find out the number of blocks required for laying the walls of the garage measuring 3x6 m. The perimeter is 41.4 sq. m. m divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone block 0.0741 sq. m. We get 558.7 pieces. We round the number to 559. It is necessary to take cinder blocks with a margin of 5-10% for cutting and scrap. Add another 56 blocks to the resulting number 559. We get 615 pieces. Please note that this calculation is carried out without taking into account the solid blocks going to the construction of the foundation. For him, the calculation should be done separately.

Online calculators can also be used to calculate the required number of cinder blocks. For example, this one:

When erecting walls of heated premises, cinder blocks, which can quickly absorb moisture, require additional cladding and insulation. Otherwise in winter time condensation formed at the junction of heat and cold, freezing, will quickly destroy the walls.

Walling

A building made of high-quality cinder blocks can serve for 50 years or more. You can lay out walls from them pretty quickly. But, since such blocks are quite heavy, you will need an assistant in the work.

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Construction of garage walls from cinder blocks

1. Before purchasing the blocks, be sure to check their quality. To do this, place a pair of randomly selected products on top of each other. There should be no gap between them
2. Fine-grained slag products are more expensive, but they will also last much longer. However, their thermal insulation properties will be lower
3. To fasten the cinder blocks, it is better to take not a standard cement mortar, but a special adhesive mixture... In this case, the seams will be thinner and stronger. Using cement mortar the proportions for mixing are standard: 3 to 1 (sand, cement). Frost resistance and strength of the solution can be increased by adding plasticizers to it
4. When using cement mortar, the thickness of the joints is 1.5 cm. When laying on glue, this parameter must be specified in the instructions
5. Dilute the solution gradually after all, after setting, it will no longer be possible to use it. It should be enough for 1-1.5 hours of work. Keep in mind that 4 blocks will take you about a bucket of mortar
6. For the walls of an unheated garage, half a stone is enoughwhen blocks are laid along rather than across a wall
7. Block laying should start from the corners with checking the vertical and horizontal rows of the building level. To do this, a string is pulled between the two extreme blocks, which will serve as a guide
8. Hollow blocks are placed only with holes down
9. To obtain a checkerboard layout, the next row begins with half a block... In this case, the next row will move, and the cinder blocks of the first row will close the seams of the blocks of the previous row. In order not to engage in cutting, you can purchase ready-made corner cinder blocks
10. It is better to use reinforcement to strengthen the structure. (metal mesh). It is laid in the seams between the rows. The first row must be reinforced. The net is then laid in every 4th row. Window and door openings are also reinforced. The net is also laid in the last 2 rows

If you want to change the colors of the joints, add soot to the darkening solution, lime or blue to lighten. copper sulfate to obtain a blue tint. Or use special supplements that you can buy at a hardware store.

Overlapping garage

The cost of cinder blocks for the construction of walls is only 1/3 of the cost. Material investments will also be needed for the arrangement of the roof, foundation, gates, decoration, etc. But still, a building made of blocks will cost less than any other material.

To cover the roof, I-beams are used, which are laid across the structure every 80 cm. Their length should be 25 cm longer than the total width of the garage. In places where they rest on the walls, cinder blocks must be replaced with more durable ones concrete blocks.

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Thick durable boards are attached to the bottom of the beams. Their thickness should be 4-5 cm. They are waterproofed with roofing material with a small 10-centimeter approach to the walls.

To protect the foundation from rain and melting snow, 4 cm long canopies should be attached to the edges of the roof. You can insulate the roof with slag, which is poured over roofing material, foam or mineral wool. They are protected from moisture with a layer of 30 mm cement screed. In the future, it is treated with bitumen, and then covered with roofing material with an overlap of sheets of 10-15 cm. They also need to close the visors.

For the roof of the garage, you can use any material: from slate, metal profiles to tiles. It is necessary that it protrude beyond the walls by 20 cm. Then, during rain or melting snow, moisture will not flow down the walls.

When constructing a pitched roof, the walls should have a slope - for each meter of length, it should be about 50 mm.

Observation pit

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Lookout pit

Its arrangement is possible only when groundwater rises below 2.5 m. If they approach a little higher, drainage can be arranged in the pit area. However, this will require additional labor and capital investment. With a high approach of groundwater to the surface level, it is better to refuse the construction of a viewing hole - it will simply be flooded.

Standard sizes

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For a comfortable inspection and repair of a passenger car, the dimensions of the pit should be as follows:

• length: to determine this parameter, 1 m¸ is added to the vehicle length, e.g. (4.5 + 1) \u003d 5.5 m
• width, 200 mm less than the standard size of the car track (distance between the wheels), in this case the car can easily enter the pit without risking falling down; you can clarify this data in the technical documentation
• depth: for an adult to be able to stand in it, unbending, this parameter should be 1.85-2.0 m

The pit for the inspection pit must be made a little largerso that there is room for concreting or laying out the walls with bricks. It is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the waterproofing and thermal insulation layers. If necessary, niches can be provided in the walls of the pit for placing tools.

Pit wall decoration with concrete

To protect against moisture, crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the prepared pit, and then sand. From above, such a pillow is covered with a layer of wet clay and compacted. Further, reinforcement is laid on the bottom, and it is concreted or laid out with bricks. In order for the concrete to set well, the pit must be left for a week to dry.

After the specified time has elapsed, waterproofing is placed on the bottom, then a layer of polystyrene (heat insulator), and it is again poured with a layer of concrete mortar of small thickness. 15-20 mm is enough.

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It is also advisable to coat the walls with clay, which is a natural waterproofing agent. A thick film or roofing material is attached on top. You can replace it with bitumen, liquid rubber or plastic plates. Next, a heat insulator is attached.

The thickness of the walls when poured with concrete is 15 cm. When installing the formwork, reinforcement in the form of a metal mesh or rods is laid in it.

The concrete solution is poured in stages of 0.3-0.4 m, followed by drying for several hours. At each stage of pouring, it is well pierced to remove voids.

When laying the lighting, the wires should be hidden in the corrugation. It is attached to the mesh with plastic ties before the concrete is poured. It is necessary to provide for natural or forced ventilation of the inspection pit.

You can protect the walls from shedding with a metal corner, laid along the perimeter at the top. It is advisable to make a durable metal or wooden cover to exclude the possibility of falling.

Finished base of the garage with a viewing hole

To make the floors even, when arranging a garage with your own hands, you first need to prepare beacons - metal or wooden slats installed on slaps of a thick solution. The distance between the slats should be slightly more than the length of the rule - a tool in the form of a long ruler used to level the mortar.

The horizontal alignment of the beacons is done using the building level. If necessary, a solution is reported under them or, on the contrary, it is pressed into the surface more strongly. After leveling the concrete, it must be covered with foil and left to dry for a week.

Wall decoration

Porous cinder blocks are able to reliably retain heat in a building. But at the same time this is also a disadvantage. Since porous cinder blocks quickly absorb water, the walls from it require additional finishing. They can be plastered or protected with a ventilated façade. Otherwise, when wet walls freeze, the material will begin to collapse.

Wall decoration must be done immediately after construction is completed. The best time for this is summer.

In some areas, the garage appears before the house. You can spend the night in a tent yourself, and put your car under a roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a garage with your own hands is not idle. We start by choosing a place.

Seat selection

Choosing a place for a garage - difficult task... I really want it to be convenient to use it, but at the same time so that the building does not spoil appearance plot. Immediately it is necessary to decide whether it will be detached or attached to a house or other building on the site.

• Standing separately. This option is chosen if the house has already been built and / or the shape of the plot is such that the driveways take up too much space. In this case, it makes sense to move the building closer to the entrance gate, or to make the garage door open directly to the street.
• Part of the building. It can be a house or utility block, and the garage itself can be built together with the building, or added later. Good if the house is built close to the border of the site. It is attractive in that there is no need to think about how to heat it and draw additional communications.

With self-construction, the garage is most often placed separately, since an extension to an existing house requires serious measures to strengthen the foundation, and this is definitely not cheap. It will be cheaper to build separately. Only when choosing a place, one must keep in mind that the distance to the neighboring site should be at least 1 m, and the entrance at a distance of at least 10 meters from the neighbor's windows. The distance to the nearest residential building is also normalized. It should be more than 9 meters if the house is made of non-combustible material and 15 meters if the house is fire hazardous.

The gate opens directly to the street - one of the good options

Dimensions and designs

First you need to decide for what purposes the garage will be used. If this is only a parking space, the dimensions can be made end-to-end - add one meter in length and width to the dimensions of the car. This is enough for a parking space. If repair work is also carried out in the garage, you will need a lift or a viewing hole, a bunch of equipment and spare parts, then the dimensions should be larger. It is advisable to leave at least a meter on the sides and the same amount in front. Half a meter is still enough behind. If the garage is used as a workshop or club, the dimensions can be even larger. Restrictions only in available space and construction budget.

With or without pit

The most important thing is to decide whether to make a hole or not. It depends on how and what kind of foundation you will make. You can make a basement under the garage, and the pit will be the "entrance" or only part of the occupied space. The option is attractive, but expensive and requires large volumes earthworks.

The second option is more economical: only a pit 1.8-2 meters deep and about 1 meter wide. The width is optimal, but the height depends on the height and it is better to choose this parameter individually: the depth should be 15-20 cm more than your height. The length of the pit is about 2 m. This is enough for inspecting any passenger car.

It is even easier to implement a floor in a garage without a pit. Then it is simply filled in without any difficulties.

Garage foundation

The foundation for a garage without a pit can be any, even tape, even pile-grillage. Another question is that you still have to fill the floor. And if so, then it is easier to immediately make a monolithic reinforced slab and not do the foundation first, and then the floor.

Belt - monolithic and prefabricated

Pile or pile-grillage

An economical foundation, which for some reason is rarely used for garages. A pure pile is not very suitable for a garage - the floor turns out to be raised above the ground, but if you make a check-in, you can also use it. He and the pile-grillage with a low grillage - an excellent option for heaving soils (clay, loams with a high level of groundwater).

The pile is connected to the grillage - this is a pile-grillage foundation

When making a pile-grillage, a shallow pit in the form of a tape is dug around the perimeter (about 40-50 cm deep). In it, with a step of 1.5-2 meters, wells are drilled below the depth of soil freezing, formwork is inserted into them ( plastic pipe or rolled roofing material). Three or four reinforcement bars are placed inside the formwork with an outlet of 70 cm and poured with concrete. After that, they put the formwork on the tape and knit the reinforcing cage for the tape, connecting it with the pile reinforcement outlets. And it is also poured with concrete.

Monolithic slab

Suitable for any type of soil. Along the perimeter, it is made at least 30 cm larger than the size of the garage. The soil is removed by digging a pit 40-45 cm deep. The bottom is leveled, a layer of gravel is poured. Its thickness is about 20-25 cm. Gravel is well rammed using a vibrating plate whenever possible.

A formwork is placed around the perimeter, reinforcement is placed on the rammed bedding in increments of 15-20 cm (along and across, getting a cage). Usually they use 10-14 mm in diameter, two tiers of reinforcement, the distance between which is about 20 cm. All this is poured with concrete of the M 250 - M 300 brand.

What to make walls

Most often, walls in a garage are made of building blocks. It can be (foam block and gas block), or maybe with slag or expanded clay filler. They are good because they are warm by themselves and there are no problems with subsequent heating of the garage: enough small stove to heat the air to normal temperatures. True, with this choice, external decoration is necessary. It is usually made the same as on the house or as similar as possible.

The second popular technology for building garage walls is frame. The frame is made of metal shaped pipe or impregnated with fire retardants (additives that reduce flammability) wooden beam... The cladding can be any - from sheet metal to siding (on metal), lining, imitation of timber, plywood (moisture resistant) or OSB. Yes, some materials are flammable and cannot be called reliable, but if you need a cheap garage, for example, for a summer residence, and only as a temporary parking lot, then why not.

Goal

Gates for the garage can be swing, sliding, lifting. Swing ones are the simplest and most familiar to everyone. If desired, they can be automated (as read).

Heating and insulation of the garage

If you plan to use the garage all year round, you need to either make the walls warm immediately (from blocks with low thermal conductivity) or insulate those built using frame technology. Insulation materials are standard: mineral wool, polystyrene (extruded or regular foam). There is also an option of non-combustible insulation, which, in the case of a garage, is just an excellent option - low-density foam concrete. It can be laid between the frame posts. Non-flammable, inexpensive, keeps warm well. The only bad thing is that you can't hang anything on it, but there are frame racks, so you can attach it to them.

There are two types of heating in a garage: continuous and periodic. The constant can be separate or part of the heating of the house. If done separately, this is the same house system, only in a smaller volume. It turns out to be expensive and difficult: a separate boiler, which also needs to be maintained and controlled.

One of the options for organizing heating in the garage is to stretch the branch out of the house. But here it is also not easy: a pipeline that requires good insulation, a large amount of land work for its laying, moreover, preferably not just into the ground, but into the sewer.

Periodic heating - stoves such as stoves and their modifications. They can be heated with wood, all kinds of combustible trash, which is usually sufficient. But the most attractive idea is to make a stove for mining - there is a lot of fuel around, and for free (or almost). There are different designs, they are described in the article ““.

This type of heating is the easiest to organize: put a stove and marsh, but also less comfort. Firstly, the heat is mainly near the stove, and secondly, you come to the cold garage and melt it while it starts to warm up ...

Drawings and diagrams

Photo reports from construction

Often the essence technological processes it is difficult to understand from a verbal description, but drawings or photos help to put everything in its place. More questions arise about frame garages. They are the cheapest and quickest to build. Below are some examples.

Frame garage made of wood

The garage was under construction 4 * 6.5 m, with a gazebo 4 * 2 m. The timber was delivered ahead of time, impregnated with an antiseptic and stacked in ventilated piles - to dry.

The foundation is columnar. A hand drill made holes with a depth of 150 cm, a diameter of 35 cm. In them liners made of roofing material were exposed, three rods of plastic reinforcement were inserted, and they were filled with concrete.

Two weeks later, when the concrete was almost ready, they began to put up the walls. The bottom harness was assembled first. Used timber 150 * 100 mm. The harness was installed on three sides, the fourth remained open - there will be an entrance.

The problem was the connection with the plastic fittings. Not a particularly good idea: they drilled holes for it, but how to fix it further is unclear. We fixed the anchors in concrete (two per pole), and the holes with reinforcement were filled with epoxy. It is not clear whether they will help or not, but we hope to somehow keep it.

Further, racks were placed over each post (step 1.5 meters). They must be placed straight up, without deviations, otherwise the structure will be unstable - bursting loads will appear. We started from the corners. One was exposed, fixed with temporary jibs, then nailed, moved on to the next. The rest were leveled according to the set angles, not forgetting to check the verticality (with a plumb line, since the level gives an error). Attached to nails, reinforced with metal mounting plates.

So that the free ends of the lower harness did not part, they were temporarily fastened with a board.

After installing all the racks, the logs were attached at the bottom. They gave rigidity, and it is needed, since we will climb up and fasten the upper harness.

We continue to assemble the garage frame

When all the beams are installed and assembled, we begin to assemble the rafter system. It was decided to make the roof sloped, and it is temporary. Subsequently, the garage will be adjacent to the house (this is the first building on the site).

Having collected the required number of trusses, they were installed on the upper harness. They were fixed with pieces of boards to the racks on both sides, then they were hammered in with nails, reinforced with corners on self-tapping screws.

The rafters must also be placed exactly upward, otherwise the roof will take away in winter. Therefore, it is often worth checking how correct it is: before you score, and after….

After everything was installed and secured, the crate was laid. A 40 * 150 mm board went to it, laid with a gap of 40 cm.

Profiled sheeting was stuffed onto the crate.

We began to make the area for attaching the gate We installed the beam at the top and sides.

The gate will be lift-and-turn. Under them, a frame is cooked inside, along which they will drive off. From a profile pipe 25 * 50 mm, the door frame is welded according to the size of the opening (with a small gap).

It is necessary to fasten the sheets with a gap of about 10 mm. For humidity-temperature expansion.

There is still a lot of work to be done, but basically everything is ready. Crushed stone was poured inside until the floor was poured, but the car can already be parked, as well as drinking tea in the gazebo))

DIY garage on a strip foundation

Garage for two cars (separate boxes), unheated. They were built on sandy soil with a low location of groundwater. Therefore, the foundation is shallow. They dug a trench around the perimeter, set up the formwork, tied the reinforcement cage. Everything is as usual. Poured with concrete.

Excess soil was taken out inside the tape, the pit was leveled. The bottom was covered and covered with sand. It was spilled and tamped (with a vibrating plate).

Compacted sand

A polyethylene film was laid on top (for waterproofing), a metal mesh was laid and M300 concrete was poured.

The height of the screed is 10 cm. It was left to set for 2 weeks. Then they began to put the frame. Planks of 50 * 150 mm went to the frame itself and the rafter system, spacers and jibs are made of 100 * 25 mm.

In the corners, additional boards are placed - for reinforcement. The pillars at the fastening points of doors and windows are also reinforced. Installation step! Walks "- the dimensions are small, but you need to put a door block, then a window block. I divided the rest as it turned out, but did not do more than 60 cm.

Immediately going and rafter system... Since the bearing beams passed in the middle, they supported rafter legs... They were placed at a distance of about 50 cm. For reinforcement at the attachment points, mounting metal plates and corners were used. They were seated on self-tapping screws, the frame elements were connected with a long nail.

A windproof membrane is stuffed onto the top of the frame. On it is a lathing made of an inch board, the lathing step is about 50 cm.

After the membrane and lathing were packed, the installation of the outer skin of the garage began. This is a metal profile on the walls and ondulin on the roof. No difficulties. Cut to size, fasten with self-tapping screws.

Having spread the membrane on the roof (start from the bottom, glue the joints) and nail the crate, mount the ondulin. It should be placed from below, moving up.

It takes longer to tinker with filing overhangs. They were sewn up with perforated siding (remnants from the construction of the house). Installed dry wood wind board 145 * 20mm, painted in white color.

Installed wooden windows, painted white and a cheap Chinese door, which will then be replaced and put in the barn. The corners are sheathed with a wooden board 145 * 20 mm, painted to match the roofing material.

Almost the result: more gates and insulation

An entrance was prepared: on one side, when the foundation was poured, an extended tape was poured (the height difference is greater). On the other side they propped up a board. They covered it with screenings, tamped it down. The entrance is ready.

Rollers were installed last. At first, overhead doors were planned, but the price for them became merciless, therefore a cheaper option was installed.

Frame garage - one of the most simple options construction of a utility room for storing a car. It is not only technically simple, but also cheaper than brick or concrete walls... Price and technical availability are the main advantages frame structures... How on your own? What features are important to consider for reliable and correct construction?

Frame types

Frame garages can be made of various materials - wood, OSB, asbestos-cement slate sheets, plastic siding, metal panels. Depending on the material of frame elements and walls, garages are divided into the following types:

• Wooden buildings - in them, wooden beams or logs are often used as supports, and edged and unedged boards, lining, panels made of wood materials are used as wall cladding. As a rule, wooden boxes are erected when working with "what is", when the building is being built from the available means available - wooden panels, boards. Wooden walls require high-quality protection from moisture and wetting. They must be painted or varnished annually. And also periodically change rotten spoiled boards, replace with new wooden panels.
• Metal - the most common types of frame structures for car storage. They use metal corners, channels, beams as supports. As a wall cladding - metal sheets. These can be profiled metal sheets or flat rolled products. In order to build a frame garage with your own hands made of metal, you must have in stock welding machine and be able to work with arc welding.

On a note

Mixed options are possible. Wooden beams can be used as a support for plastic panel walls. It can be sheathed with asbestos-cement sheets (flat slate).

Read more about the construction of a frame garage different materials - on the video.

Construction of a frame garage

The drawing of the frame and future construction is necessary for novice builders. It is also needed for calculating the consumption of building materials - support beams, wall cladding, roof panels. You can use ready-made drawings of garages, standard solutions, which are given in various recommendations for building frame garages with your own hands, in step-by-step instructions. Or contact a specialist and order a calculation and drawing of your garage with individual sizesrequired by the design.

Expanded drawing.

There should be a sketch-drawing of the future frame.

Sketch drawing of a wireframe.

There should also be a drawing indicating the dimensions of all frame elements, the distance between them and the methods of fastening to each other. Also, the drawing indicates the type and dimensions of the wall sheathing panels, and the methods for attaching it to the frame posts. The material, the size of the roofing sheets, as well as the pitch-distance of the roofing logs are discussed. A correctly drawn up drawing with all dimensions can be used as instructions for building a garage.

Foundation

The construction of a frame garage begins with design. And work on its construction begins with laying the foundation. The walls of the future garage structure can be light and cold, but the base must be deep (if there is a viewing hole) and strong.

Most often, a foundation slab is used as a basis for a frame garage. It has sufficient strength indicators, and fits in a short time. However, it differs in weight and requires the work of loading and unloading equipment. When using a crane, the slab is placed on the site of the future auxiliary building within an hour.

Foundation slab.

Before laying the slab, carry out preparatory work - they level the soil, if necessary, make a small depression, or vice versa, raise the future by making an embankment. When laying a concrete slab in a pit, its bottom is pre-poured with a layer of sand - to drain ground water, as a drainage layer. If the slab is laid on top of the ground without deepening, or in an elevated place, then it is enough to level and tamp the ground.

The finished foundation slab is used if there is no need to build a viewing hole under the garage. If there is a need for a traditional garage pit, then they first build it, and only after that they proceed to the foundation, walls and roof.

The pit for the garage is arranged in the form of an underground deepening of the required length, width and depth. Its walls are laid out with bricks, or cast with concrete, the bottom is also laid out with a small concrete slab. After arranging the pit, they start pouring the main foundation slab.

Monolithic foundation with a viewing pit.

To prepare the soil for pouring, the bottom of the future slab is covered with sand. After that, the sand is spilled with water and rammed. On top - lay the frame of the future foundation - from metal fittings, mesh, wire, formwork is built around the perimeter of the foundation. After that, concrete is poured.

They give a month to solidify the foundation slab. You can step on the base plate in a day. The concrete will be strong enough to support the weight of a person and carry further construction works... But you can put the car only after the final strength is achieved - after 28 calendar days.

On a note

If the work is carried out in the heat, then the surface of the concrete is covered with a wet canvas in order to prevent excessive drying and cracking of the slab due to the rapid evaporation of moisture from its surface. Periodically, as it dries, the canvas is moistened with water to maintain moisture in the surface layer of concrete.

The surface of the garage slab must be moisture resistant. When setting up the car, water will drain from its wheels and bottom. Penetrating into the pores of concrete, when freezing, drops of moisture will expand the pores and initiate surface cracking. Therefore, before pouring concrete, moisture-resistant components such as Penetron, Aquastop are added to the mixture. When installing the finished foundation slab, its surface is impregnated with a waterproof mixture.

Assembling the frame

Under the garage begins with the arrangement of vertical supports. In this case, the supports can be concreted into the foundation slab during the pouring process, or they can be attached to the concrete base using anchor connections, together with the lower strapping. The most high-quality and reliable option is concreting the racks with penetration into the foundation slab and the ground. It is used for construction in open areas with high wind loads. It requires the construction of a pit for each support and its separate cementation.

Racks in the ground with concreting.

More simple and affordable option - the use of lower lags and fasteners. In this method, the vertical support is not buried in the ground, but is attached with a metal corner to concrete floor or a wooden beam, which acts as a lower strapping. Such a beam is preliminarily fixed to the foundation slab, and after that, the frame supports are installed on it.

Top horizontal logs are placed on top of the vertical bearing supports. On them - they construct ceilings under the roof. The roof itself is constructed from roofing sheets, which are laid on top of the overlap log (elements roof frame). The bottom row of the roof is laid with a slight overhang.

Its edge should extend beyond the perimeter of the building by 50-60 cm. Such an overhang of the roof prevents the walls from getting too wet and thus ensures their dryness, durability and the absence of moisture and mold in the garage. The minimum size of the cornice, up to half a meter, ensures that the walls are protected from the drainage of waste rainwater.

On a note

Assembling the frame using threaded elements makes it possible to dismantle the garage and reinstall it in another place. The frame garage, if necessary, can be disassembled if the fastenings are made with bolts and screws. Assembly with bolts and screws provides the ability to dismantle the walls, roof and frame of the garage building.

For more information on connecting the supports of a frame garage, see the video.

Roof types

The roof of the garage can be made in the form of a single or gable structure. To do the work with your own hands with minimal construction experience, it is easier to build a shed roof. In this case, the rainwater will be drained to one side of the garage building. In order to evenly distribute the drain on both sides of the garage, the roof structure is made gable.

Shed roof.

For the construction of a pitched roof, the walls of the garage are made different in height. One wall is raised above the other by 300, 400 and more mm. The difference in the height of the walls determines the angle of inclination of the roof, which, in turn, depends on the amount of snowfall in the winter season.

On a note

The slope of the roof is determined by the amount of precipitation in winter. The more snow, the more the roof slope should be. For regions with a temperate climate and an average amount of snowfall, the angle of inclination of the roof is chosen 20-25 °. For warm winters with a little snow, 10-15 ° is enough.

With a wall height difference of 300-400 mm and a garage width of 3 m, the roof gets a slope of 10-15 °. Enough for rolling snow in regions with moderate rainfall. To build a garage in areas with heavy snowfall, the angle of inclination of the roof is made large, up to 30 °.

Shed roof made using wireframe technology.

After the construction of the frame, they begin to hang the roofing elements. Step-by-step instructions for a frame garage regulate the rules for installing roofing panels. Work begins with laying the bottom row of roofing sheets. On top - put the sheets of the next row. The top row is laid last, located along the raised wall. Thus, the roofing sheets overlap each other and prevent moisture from entering the garage space during rain or snow.

For construction, they are assembled from triangular frame elements. Their size is determined by the width of the garage and the angle of the roof. The triangular elements are collected on the ground and then raised to the roof. Here they are installed on the upper wall trim. On top of the finished roof frame, a slate or metal profile is laid.

Finishing

The interior decoration of the utility room is often absent at all. Especially if the garage is being built without insulation. Less often, when arranging a warm garage, it becomes necessary to close the insulating material from the inner space. In this case, it becomes necessary and obligatory.

The material of the inner wall cladding does not require moisture resistance. Therefore, panels from waste are often used. wood production (OSB, chipboard) or plywood sheets. If necessary, they carry out shelves, cabinets built into the wall, fixing them to the supports of the garage frame.

Warming

The need for insulation arises when in winter it is necessary to carry out any work in the garage. Or when it is planned to equip a warm garage with the ability to dry the bottom of the car after driving in the cold and wet season.

Do-it-yourself insulation.

Insulation of a garage differs from similar work in residential buildings by choosing a heat insulator. If it is important to ensure a healthy microclimate in residential premises, to equip natural air circulation, then in garage insulation easier. You can get by with a forced periodically operating hood. And also use less useful and cheaper heaters - polystyrene and glass wool.

When insulated with glass wool, it is placed between vertical posts. Due to its compressibility, it is easily held in tension. The thickness of the wadded insulation is determined by the level of winter temperatures. For residential buildings at an average temperature of -10 ° C, choose a thickness of cotton insulation up to 100 mm. For garages and others utility rooms choose a thickness of up to 50 mm.

On a note

When insulating with glass wool, it is important to take into account that over time, the material can sag. In places of sagging glass wool, "cold bridges" will form, through which heat will "flow".

Foam insulation has no disadvantages of using glass wool. Polyfoam does not settle over time and does not lose its shape. At the same time, it is quite inexpensive, which makes it a popular material for frame garage insulation.

If living quarters are not recommended to be insulated with expanded polystyrene due to possible harmful fumes, then this type of insulation is optimal for the garage space. It is inexpensive, easy to install and works as a heat insulator for a long time, keeping heat inside the building.

When installing the foam, gaps are formed between the frame posts. This is due to the stiffness of the foam boards. The formed mounting slots are blown out with foam.

Types of garage doors

Frame garages in the photo differ in design entrance gate... Traditionally, garage doors are double-winged. However, other designs are also possible. What can be garage Doors?

Goal.

Swinging gates are a traditional form of doors that swing open and open to the outside of the room. The simplest and most affordable construction in DIY construction. Opens in manual mode.

Sliding - an improved form of garage entrance, which can be supplemented with an automatic device. In this version, the garage door slides to the side along the rails when a signal is sent from a remote device.

Lifting and roller shutter structures are also possible, but their cost is much higher, therefore they are less often used in frame structures.

The construction of a garage can be ordered by third-party specialists. You can also explore available instructions and build a great garage with your own hands. In this case, you will not have to spend money on anything other than construction and finishing materials. You will personally supervise every stage of the work and be sure of the quality and reliability of the finished structure.

Please select suitable material for building a garage. The structure can be made of "stone" building materials and metal. Brick, foam blocks, cinder blocks, etc. are usually used as stone materials.

The stone structure is characterized by more high reliabilitywhen compared to metal structures. The metal garage wins in terms of the complexity and speed of construction. Otherwise, you will have to make your own decision about the right building material.

First, the procedure for building a garage from stone materials will be considered, and at the end you will receive recommendations for the construction of a metal garage.

Project preparation

A competent project is the key to successful work. Design documentation may be the most modest. The main thing is that the following information is reflected in the project:

• tasks assigned to the future structure. A garage intended solely for storing a car will be different from the building in which it is planned to carry out any more repairs. Be sure to consider this point and reflect your wishes in the project;
• dimensions of the structure. Depends on the requirements for the future garage and the area of \u200b\u200bthe available construction site. For storing a passenger car, a 3x6 m room is quite enough. Otherwise, focus on your needs and capabilities.

Consider the above points and draw a sketch of the future garage on paper or in a computer program.

Layout and excavation

Transfer the finished sketch to a real area. A number of reinforcement pegs will help you with this. Usually rods with a diameter of 12 mm are used. You will mark the corners and sides of the garage using pegs driven into the ground and a rope stretched between them.

After completing the marking, proceed to the main earthworks. The earth can be dug with special equipment or by hand. If you plan to equip a viewing hole or even a full-fledged cellar in the garage, it is recommended to use the help of companies specializing in earthworks. It is very difficult to dig such a large hole by hand.

In the process of digging, consider the features of the future foundation. For a strip base, a trench 60-100 cm deep is sufficient.The specific depth depends on climatic conditions and the type of soil at the construction site. A meter depth is sufficient in most cases.

Line up the bottom and sides of the pit. An ordinary shovel will help you with this.

Foundation device

Today there are many types of foundations. Private garages are usually built on concrete foundations. This is a relatively budgetary and extremely easy-to-equip system that you can do yourself.

First step. Place the rubble stone in the trench. It is necessary to place this stone in layers, spilling each layer with concrete mortar. Prepare the mortar based on cement M400 and higher. Lay the stone up to the top of the pit.

Step two. Install a wooden plinth formwork around the entire perimeter of the pit. Assemble the formwork from the boards. Boards with a width of about 10 cm are suitable. In general, the structure is set strictly according to the level.

Step three. Place moisture barrier material over the plinth. Two layers of roofing material will be more than enough. The material is laid dry.

Fourth step. Pour the base of the future garage with concrete mortar to the level established by the formwork.

Installing gates, installing walls and erecting a roof

First step. Install the gate. This element is installed strictly before the start of the construction of the walls. Weld reinforcement rods with a diameter of about 12 mm to the door frame. Thanks to the rods, a stronger connection of the garage door to its walls will be provided. In the process of erecting the walls, the reinforcement will be embedded in the seams. Install the gate strictly vertically. After aligning the door, secure it with wooden braces.

Step two. Start laying out the walls from the selected material. The next row of masonry, regardless of the material used, should overlap the seams of the laid row. The laying should be started directly from the corners. Be sure to control the verticality of the walls, the correct angles and horizontal rows of masonry at each stage.

Step three. Install the roof of the garage at a slope necessary to drain atmospheric water. Make end walls of different heights to obtain a slope. Traditionally, a slope of 5 cm per 1 m2 is performed. For example, if the garage is about 6 m long, the total height difference will be about 30 cm.

The overlapping of a private garage will look like metal beams with additional filing of wooden boards. Prepare I-beams. Their height should be about 12 cm. Use beams such that their length is approximately 250 mm longer than the width of the future garage. Bring these beams into the structure by at least 100 mm. At the points of support of the beams, cinder block, brick or other used building material should be replaced with monolithic concrete blocks.

Lay the beams across the structure at a distance of about 800 mm from each other. Beams are laid with embedding in the long wall of the building and the same slope as this wall.

Step four. Secure to the bottom of the beams wooden planks 4-5 cm thick. Lay the boards as tightly as possible to each other. Cover the boards with roofing material. The edges of this waterproofing material should extend approximately 100 mm into the wall.

Fill the roofing material with slag or cover the waterproofing with another insulation, for example, mineral wool insulation plates. At the rear and front edges of the roof, you need to install visors protruding by about 40 mm. Use boards to make canopies. Pour a cement screed about 3-3.5 cm thick over the insulation. Try to align the screed as carefully as possible. Be sure to treat the hardened screed with a bituminous primer.

Step five. At the end, the roof must be waterproofed. For protection from moisture, you can use the roofing material you already know. This waterproofing material is installed using the fusion method. Also roofing material can be fastened using bituminous mastic... Lay sheets of roofing material with an overlap of about 100-150 mm. Along the edges of the roof, overlap the visor.

Guide to the construction of floors and blind areas

Make the floor at the level of the upper border of the base or slightly higher. The floor structure must be strong enough to support the weight of the vehicle and other loads. For pouring, use concrete prepared on the basis of cement grade 500. Or buy ready-made concrete grade M200. The fill layer should be about 10 cm thick.

First step. Level the subfloor carefully.

Step two. Expose by the required level beacons and pull a string between them. Lighthouses can be made, for example, from a profile pipe or other suitable material.

Step three. Lay a crushed stone pillow about 5 cm thick on the base.

Fourth step. Pour concrete in strips between the beacons. After all the concrete has been placed, the surface must be carefully leveled.

Fifth step. While the floor is gaining strength, engage in outdoor work, in particular - a blind area. In the case of a garage, a blind area 50-60 cm wide is enough.

The blind area is created in the same order as the floor, i.e. first you install the beacons, then you prepare the base from rubble and fill concrete mortar... Only first you need to install boards that will indicate the boundaries of the blind area, i.e. make the formwork. The very same blind area is recommended to do with some bias from the walls of the garage. The recommended construction thickness is 40-60 mm.

As a rule, they do not pay special attention to finishing the garage. In most cases, the owners simply rub the walls with cement mortar and cover them with a layer of plaster.

A more significant point is the thermal insulation of the structure. For insulation, slabs of mineral wool and foam are suitable.

The ceiling, walls and garage doors are insulated in a similar manner. A crate is attached to the surface to be finished with a step equal to the width of the insulation slab, then a plastic film is laid on the crate, insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing, the laid slabs are covered with moisture insulation and, at the end, the finishing sheathing is performed, for example, clapboard, siding or other material to choose from.

The procedure for the construction of a metal garage

It takes less money and time to equip a metal garage.

First step. Make a foundation. Pre-prepare a trench with a depth of about 400 mm around the perimeter of the future metal structure... Fix the formwork boards along the outer borders of the pit. Make the formwork of such a height that after pouring the mortar layer protrudes at least 10 cm above the ground. Pour the mortar immediately over the entire area.

Step two. Make a frame from a shaped pipe. You will need a welding machine. Attach the framing elements to the dried concrete base. For fixing, use an anchor with a length of about 20 cm and a diameter of about 14 mm. Anchors can be made from reinforcement. For greater convenience, pre-prepare holes in concrete with a diameter equal to the diameter of the anchors.

Step three. Weld the bottom chord of the garage frame to the hammered rods. 15 anchors will be enough to securely fix a 4x6 m structure. Continue to weld the crossbars of the structure until you have obtained the frame of the required height.

Fourth step. Sheathe the frame with sheet metal. Sheets 3-4 mm thick will be enough.

Fifth step. Insulate the inside of the garage walls. To do this, pre-attach a frame made of wooden bars to the walls. Place the bars with a step equal to the width of the insulation plate. For thermal insulation, it is most convenient to use mineral wool or foam. Preliminary wooden frame should be covered with plastic wrap, and insulation should be laid on it. Place a vapor barrier film on top of the thermal insulation. Finally, sheathe the walls with clapboard, OSB, siding, chipboard or any other material of your choice.

So, if you are looking for a simple and inexpensive garage, opt for a metal structure, provided it is properly constructed and handled correctly, a metal garage will last a very long time.

If you want to have a capital and the most durable structure, make a garage out of concrete blocks, bricks and other similar materials. Both tasks are solved without any problems on their own, it is enough just to carefully follow the instructions and unconditionally follow the basic recommendations.

Happy work!

Video - Building a garage with your own hands

Brick is expensive, but lately it is not in demand, and not only because of its high cost. Yes, the brick looks beautiful, has excellent characteristics, but the construction takes too long. Another thing - alternative materials:

Here are the three main building materials used economical builders... Let's explore the detailed technologies building a garage is cheap and reliable.

From wood

Perhaps, wood Is the most the best option, because here, like in no other option, external aesthetics, environmental friendliness, efficiency and ease of construction are successfully combined. But working with wood has its own nuances.

Please note that there are two construction methods: from rounded logs and frame technology... The first is more reliable, the second is cheaper. Choose the option that suits you best.

Technology

How to build a cheap garage with your own hands from wood? Preparatory stage consists in choosing the place of the future structure and its model. Garages can be either free-standing or attached to the building. The types of gate opening are also multivariate. All these points should be decided in advance.

After drawing up the plan and layout, the building site is leveled, cleaned, rammed. The site should be perfectly flatso that after that it does not turn out kinks and distortions.

The site is ready, it's time to start the most important part of our construction - pouring the foundation... A trench is being dug along the perimeter of the future development, on which the formwork is installed. Must be done pillow from several layers of sand and gravel, which is carefully compacted.

The base is reinforced with metal rods and poured with concrete. Now you need to let the foundation stand at least three weeks... When the foundation is ready, we proceed to the lower strapping, which is carried out from the board 50x100 mm.

ATTENTION: Do not forget about the tendency of wood to absorb moisture and rot. Therefore, pre-process the building boards antiseptic.

For corner posts and gate leaves, it is best to take bar, while other elements of the frame are made from boards 50x100 mm... When carrying out the bottom strapping, maintain an interval of no more than 120 cm.

Also, if you want your garage to be as strong, sturdy, good-quality as possible and last a long time, install braces in the corners... This will give the structure more stability.

The hardest part of the job is pouring the foundation and frame erection... For the frame, stronger, thicker boards are needed, while for the arrangement you can already use a board of 25x100 mm, even a simple lining is suitable here. The board is then sheathed with any finishing material, after which it is necessary to carry out hydro and vapor barrier, laying several layers of polyethylene or polypropylene film.

As you can see, the garage is the cheapest made of wood not that hard to build.

Photo of the garage made of wood:

Cinder block

The second most popular building material for a garage is cinder block... Today, cinder blocks are of several types:

• from blast furnace slag, which is famous for its excellent characteristics and durability;
• shell rock;
• brick fight.

To improve performance, some manufacturers add more perlite, polystyrene and other materials.

Cinder block is good for everyone, but there is one in it disadvantage: like a tree, it absorbs moisture, which is why it quickly collapses. With dry soil, this quality of the material will not be problematic, and with proper construction it will last up to fifty years, but in places where there are groundwater, it is better to choose another material, because if the wood can still be varnished, carry out such manipulations with the cinder block can't.

ATTENTION: You need to know that cinder blocks are divided into types, not only in composition, but also in configuration, into hollow ones, which are used for walls, and solid ones, intended for a foundation. Ignoring this feature can lead to rapid destruction of the entire structure.

Technology

In the construction of a garage from cinder block, we also carry out preparatory work, cleaning and leveling the site, developing a plan for the future building.

A jellied foundation is ideal for a tree, but cinder blocks do not need such a powerful support, it will do here. The strip foundation is made as follows: the top layer of soil is removed and a trench is dug about 45-50 cm deep, 40-45 cm wide. Then a pillow is made of sand and broken brick, which is then filled with cement.

You can do it differently: the trench is covered with sand, and then filled with water. The combination of water and sand gives the structure strength and makes it resistant to time and changes in temperature and humidity. After that, reinforcement is laid on the bottom and the whole structure is concreted.

After a month, you can start building walls. The third way to build a strip foundation even easier: instead of sand, rubble stone is poured into the trench and the entire structure is poured with a cement raster, not lower than mark 150.

After the construction of the foundation, the basement is equipped with heat and vapor barrier materials. The most versatile option for hydro, heat and vapor insulation is a simple roofing felt.

• walling;
• floor screed;
• roofing;
• hanging a gate.

Cinder block masonry identical with laying bricks, only here this work is carried out several times faster. Laying can be carried out in the floor of the stone (spoon method) or in one stone (poke method).

Also, masonry of 2 and 1.5 stones is practiced. You choose the option that suits you, remembering that the thickness of the walls directly affects the durability of the garage and its ability to withstand sudden changes in temperature. A garage in one stone will freeze in winter, even if several heaters are installed in it, while one and a half and two stones will be warm and cozy.

When erecting walls, you should initially lay out the corners, and only then, stretching the construction cords between them, start laying blocks brick method, that is, overlapping the seam of the previous row.

When constructing the floor, remember that the screed must be not less than 10 cm... Concrete works well for screed M200, which is poured into several layers, and then, after drying, is rubbed.
The final stage - electrification and interior decoration.

Photo of the garage from cinder blocks:

Corrugated board

How easy is it to build a garage? A universal material is suitable for this. decking... It is perfect for fences, for sheds, and quite good garages... But here the most important condition is the competent choice of corrugated board: for the construction of a garage, only pS brand or FROM.

Decking is marked with a letter and a number. Letter "FROM" denotes "Purpose for the walls", number - sheet stiffness. The higher the number, the stronger the sheet. S-20 - the most optimal option for construction.

Sometimes sellers, due to their illiteracy or when there is no twenty in the warehouse, advise ten or eight for construction, but! Never fall for this vendor trick! A garage made of such a sheet, although it will cost much less, will not last long, moreover, in winter it will be icy, and it will be impossible to warm it up. And the walls will shake from the wind. You need it? We think not, therefore, we stop at the standard twenty.

Ideal decking thickness - half a millimeter.

Technology

How to build a cheap garage with your own hands from corrugated board? We need:

• reinforcement and concrete for foundation construction;
• elements for the frame: corner, bars, metal rods;
• metal elements for gates;
• self-tapping screws.

Arm yourself with the following tool:

1. screwdriver;
2. welding machine;
3. bulgarian;
4. scissors for metal;
5. jigsaw.

Photo of the garage from corrugated board:

Let's get to work. First of all, fill in. Having cut off the soil by half a meter, fill the resulting trench with sand and fill it with water. Wells are made for frame racks, which will simultaneously become foundation racks.

This work will help make the foundation stronger and more resistant to ground movement. Wells are driven to a depth of at least half a meter.

Further, everything is according to the standard: a wooden formwork is being erected, on which reinforcing bars are installed. For strength, the rods are attached with wire. Now the main thing is not to forget to install the frame structure racks in the wells.

IMPORTANT: Before installing the racks, it is necessary to process bitumen underground part of the structure.

To ensure that the struts do not tilt, they are carefully aligned using level... The last stage of work is the pouring of concrete into the reinforcement. Use grade 300, for this case, this is the ideal option.

Some builders claim that it is possible to build within two to three days after pouring concrete, but professionals advise you to wait three weeks, otherwise the foundation may crack, and then it will be impossible to correct the error. Patience and patience again is the key to success.

When the foundation is ready, they erect metal carcass... Here, both welding and a grinder with a jigsaw for cutting are useful metal pipes the right size, and some more welding skills. With basic skills of a welder, the frame is cooked in a day or two. A newbie takes a week. In order to make a frame, you need to carefully study the drawing several times and cut the material, according to its data.

Using welding, we cook horizontal metal rods to the racks. Welding in progress at three points... If the frame is made of timber, then in addition to everything, special fasteners for wooden beams are welded to the posts. The bars are attached with self-tapping screws.

Now the corrugated board is attached self-tapping screws... You can fit the sheets to size using a jigsaw. This job is better done team out of three or four people, it is almost impossible to cope with it alone.

When the frame is finished, the gate installation phase begins. Here you also need to show patience and maximum attention in order not to make mistakes. The gate frame is cooked from metal corners and sheathed with profiled sheet. This work can be done in a day or two.

As a rule, it is performed in a single-slope version. The roof frame is made of beams (wooden or metal), on which the lathing from the lining is attached. It is important to take into account the climatic features of your region.

IN southern regions you can use a lightweight crate structure. In the northern ones, where the winter period with blizzards, snow drifts is long enough, it is better to make a stronger, solid structure that can withstand a load of snow.

We have described the main stages of construction technology. Now it's your turn to choose from which cheaper build a garage with your own hands for your swallow. And we just have to wish you good luck and a peaceful sky over your head!

Useful video

How to properly lay a cinder block during construction budget garage, watch the video: