What insulation is better to choose for facade plaster and how to calculate the thickness of the insulation. The better to insulate the facade of the building What material is better to insulate the facade of the house

September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobby: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

With the constant rise in energy prices, it is not surprising that people are increasingly asking themselves the question of insulating their homes. Of course, if you hire a team of specialists, then this "pleasure" will not come cheap. However, you can save money by insulating the facade yourself. Therefore, below I will tell you how to cope with this task without the help of specialists.

Facade insulation options

First of all, I would like to note that it is best to insulate housing from the side of the facade. In this case, the walls of the building will be warm, moreover, subject to the technology, condensation will not form between the wall and the insulation.

Currently, there are several technologies that allow you to insulate external walls and at the same time decorate the appearance of a building:

Warming methods	Features:
Suspended (ventilated) facade	This technology implies the installation of the frame on the walls, which is subsequently sheathed with facade materials. At the same time, the insulation fits into the space between the wall and finishing material. Such facade insulation has a number of advantages: wet works are excluded, thanks to which this operation can be carried out at any time of the year; the design is strong and durable; the damaged coating can be removed and replaced with a new one. With regard to the lack of technology, it is a fairly high cost of materials.
Wet facade	In this case, the walls are pasted over with thermal insulation, after which a decorative coating (decorative plaster and paint) is applied. As a result, the "cake" of the facade consists of several layers. This method is more economical, besides, using this technology, you can insulate not only private housebut also an apartment. But, at the same time, a wet facade also has some disadvantages: the surface is not strong enough, since the insulation, which itself is soft and even fragile (in the case of using foam), is protected only by a thin layer of plaster; insulation should be carried out in the warm season; when using insulation of insufficient thickness, condensation may form, which leads to the gradual destruction of the walls. Thus, this technology is in some ways better than a ventilated facade, and in some ways worse.
Brick cladding	In this case, the walls of the building are sheathed with insulation, after which the facing masonry is performed. This method is very expensive and complicated, however, the facade in this case is the most reliable and durable. Therefore, brick cladding is an excellent solution for old wooden houses.

How do you see, all methods of facade insulation have their own advantages and disadvantages... Therefore, it is difficult to advise any of the options. Everyone should choose the most optimal technology for himself.

Preparatory work

Regardless of how you decide to insulate the facade, you must first perform some preparatory work:

As for the choice of materials, there are currently quite a few heaters. However, the following remain the most common:

• mineral mats - have good vapor permeability and fire safety. Therefore, mineral mats are an excellent choice if you want to insulate a wooden house with your own hands.

Among the disadvantages of mineral mats, one can single out the fact that it is uncomfortable to work with them - getting on the skin of cotton wool villi cause itching and irritation. Therefore, during installation, you must use personal protective equipment. In addition, the price of this material is higher than the cost of polystyrene - on average, it is about 3000-4000 rubles per cubic meter;

• styrofoam is a lighter and cheaper thermal insulation material that is easy to work with. However, it is more fragile and fire hazardous, especially for cheap products from little-known manufacturers;

• extruded polystyrene foam - is the same foam, but more durable and expensive. Therefore, it is usually used to insulate the foundation and basement of the house.

After you decide what is the best way to insulate the facade, you should calculate the amount of insulation. To do this, you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls and divide it by the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet.

I must say that on the websites of building stores that sell thermal insulation, there is usually a special calculator that allows you to quickly perform the calculation. The only thing to note is that in addition to thermal insulation, other materials will be needed, the list of which is given below.

After all materials have been calculated, an estimate is made. Thus, you will find out in advance all the costs, and if necessary, you can correct them by choosing certain building materials.

For convenience, an insulation technological map can also be drawn up. You can complete it after becoming familiar with the technologies described below.

After all materials are purchased, you need to prepare the facade for insulation... This is done as follows:

1. first of all, you need to dismantle all attachments - visors, plums, antennas, etc.;
2. if there are flaking areas, for example, pieces of falling off old plaster, then they need to be removed;

1. if the house is lumber or log, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the crowns with jute or other insulation;
2. at the end of the wall wooden house must be treated with an antiseptic composition that prevents decay.

This completes the preparatory work.

Curtain facade

Materials

First of all, I will tell you how the curtain wall is made. For its installation, in addition to insulation, the following materials must be prepared:

• racks for the frame - these can be boards, wooden beams or metal profilesas for plasterboard installation. You can use metal corners or adjustable brackets to mount the racks to the wall;
• vapor barrier film;
• dowel-umbrellas;
• finishing facade material - lining, siding, facade, etc.

Design

As mentioned above, a frame is used at the basis of the curtain facade. Before proceeding with its installation, it is advisable to complete the project.

At this stage, you need to decide on the following points:

• the dimensions of the racks, which are the basis of the frame;
• the number of racks;
• the location of the frame parts on the wall.

The racks should be located on the wall with a step equal to the width of the insulation, or even one centimeter less. Thanks to this, the thermal insulation will fit tightly into the space of the frame, leaving no gaps.

The presence of such a project will simplify further work and eliminate errors during the installation process. You can even do it by hand. The main thing is to accurately indicate the size and location of the parts.

Installation

After preparing the project, you can begin to insulate the facade. The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. first of all, vertical posts are attached to the wall. Their installation resembles the installation of plaster guides, since they must be located in the same plane and vertically. therefore during the work it is necessary to use the building level and beacons;
2. then insulation is placed in the space between the racks. To fix it, you should use umbrella dowels. They are hammered into a hole drilled directly through the insulation;
3. then a vapor barrier film is attached to the racks;

1. the final stage is covering the frame with finishing material. If siding is being installed, then from below (at a distance of about 10 cm from the blind area) a starting profile is attached along the perimeter of the structure, into which the lower part of the panel is inserted. At the same time, the upper part is attached to the racks with self-tapping screws;
2. after wall cladding, installation of slopes, corners, ebb and flow and other additional elements is performed. On our portal you will find more detailed information on how the installation of siding, wall paneling and other materials is performed.

This completes the installation of the curtain wall. I must say that the frame of the structure can be made different waysfor example, the racks may not be vertical, but horizontal. However, the principle of operation remains the same.

Wet facade

Materials

For the installation of a wet facade, in addition to insulation, the following materials will be needed:

• insulation glue;
• plastic dowels-umbrellas;
• reinforcing fiberglass mesh;
• aluminum perforated corners;
• universal primer;
• decorative plaster;
• facade paint.

Regardless of the type of insulation, the thickness of the insulation must be at least 100 mm. In the northern regions, where in winter the temperature drops below 25 degrees, the thickness of the insulation should be 150 mm.

Work order

So, do-it-yourself installation of a wet facade is carried out in the following sequence:

1. first of all, the walls of the house are pasted over with mineral mats or foam. It is extremely important to place them correctly and in the same plane so that the walls turn out to be even.... Therefore, in the process of work, you need to use beacons and a building level.
   The mortar is usually applied with a notched trowel. However, if the walls are uneven, it is possible to glue the insulation on the "bloopers", allowing you to adjust the position of the insulation plate relative to the wall;
2. further, the insulation is additionally attached to the wall with dowels. The dowel caps should be recessed so that they do not protrude above the surface of the insulation;

1. if in some areas there are gaps between the insulation, they should be filled mineral wool;
2. then the slopes are made of insulation;
3. after that, you need to check the quality of the work performed with a long rule, attaching it to the wall in different areas. If "humps" are found on the walls, they should be removed with a float;
4. then, aluminum corners should be glued to all outer corners and window openings. For this, the same glue is used that was used for the insulation;
5. then you need to cover the caps of the screws with glue with a spatula, so that you end up with a smooth and even surface of the walls;

1. then reinforcement is performed. To do this, you need to cut the fiberglass mesh into canvases of a suitable length and glue it to the insulation. In this case, the glue is previously applied to the insulation in small areas, after which a mesh is applied to it and leveled with a spatula;
2. when the glue is dry, another layer of glue is applied over the mesh and leveled with a wide trowel. In fact, this is how the surface is putty;
3. after the glue hardens, the surface of the walls. To perform this operation, you need to use a regular paint roller and pallet. The latter allows you to dip the roller into the ground and immediately squeeze it out to prevent the occurrence of drips;

1. the next step is to apply decorative plaster... The composition is applied to the surface of the walls in a thin layer, as far as possible.
   When the plaster begins to set, it is rubbed with a small piece. For this, circular or reciprocating movements are performed by the tool;
2. after the plaster hardens, the walls are treated with a primer again;
3. at the end of the work, the facade is painted with a paint roller. Hard-to-reach places can be tinted with a brush. The paint is applied in two passes.

This completes the work. I must say that this system of facade insulation has recently been very popular. It is often used in "new buildings", as well as for thermal insulation of old apartments.

Brick cladding

Thermal insulation of the facade of the house and its further facing with bricks, as mentioned above, is a complex procedure. Therefore, it is unlikely that you will succeed in doing it yourself from start to finish. However, some operations can still be performed independently.

So, the technology looks like this:

1. before insulating the facade of the house from the outside, it is necessary to expand the foundation. For this, trenches are dug along the perimeter of the structure to the depth of freezing of the soil, reinforced and poured with concrete. On our portal you can find detailed information on how a buried foundation is performed;

1. while the concrete is gaining strength (it takes 28 days), the walls should be insulated. The heat insulator must be fixed with dowels, and then closed with a vapor barrier film;
2. then you need to waterproof the foundation by laying several layers of roofing material on top of it;
3. then facing masonry is performed. This work is the most difficult, so it is better to entrust it to experienced craftsmen. The only thing you should know is that every three rows, pins are laid into the masonry, which are hammered into the wall of the house.

In addition, rows of bricks are laid below and under the visor, the ends of which are not fastened to each other with mortar. At the same time, the slots provide ventilation of the space between the wall and the insulation.

Output

Insulation of the facade is not difficult, especially for technologies such as wet and hinged facade. The only thing, this work requires adherence to technology and accuracy.

The video in this article contains more information. If you have any difficulties in the process of insulating the facade or some points are not fully understood, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

Insulation of house facades is a very popular procedure not only among the owners of private country cottages, but also among the owners of commercial buildings; it is also often used by contractors of housing maintenance offices during the overhaul of old town houses.

The main advantages of external work on building insulation are the preservation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe internal space of the premises and the transfer of the boundary of condensation formation due to the temperature drop in the environment (otherwise called the "dew point") to the outer layer of thermal insulation. In a properly insulated facade, air gaps must be provided to ensure the weathering of condensate, preventing it from accumulating, absorbing into the insulation, reducing its thermal insulation properties, and becoming a breeding ground for the appearance of mold and mildew.

How to insulate the facade

The assortment of insulating materials on the shelves of hardware stores is quite wide. These include glass, mineral and basalt wool, polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, foam insulation, cotton ecowool, polyurethane foam, various insulating plaster mixtures, foamed cellular glass. All these materials have different thermal insulation and strength characteristics, and the decision to use them in facade insulation should be made based on the material of the outer walls and the selected work technology.

There are not so many reliable and proven ways to provide a house with external thermal insulation. Much depends on the design of the building itself, on the funds allocated for the insulation work, and on the degree of professionalism of those carrying out the work.

The general rule when insulating a house from the outside is the complex application of moisture protection and vapor barrier, along with insulation, and compliance with the rules for working with the selected material.

Insulation by brickwork
This method is also called "well masonry". It is used mainly at the stage of erecting the walls of a brick house, laying out a brick leaving a gap between the thickness of the bearing wall and the outer row. This gap is filled with an insulating material, for example, ecowool or polystyrene, followed by backfilling with expanded clay. Using this method, it is necessary to provide a strong bond between the front row and the inside, making brick dressings at regular intervals.

In the case when the facade insulation is carried out on an already completed brick, monolithic or block house, work begins with building up the foundation. To do this, a trench is dug along the perimeter of the building to be insulated, along the supporting foundation. Its depth should exceed the level of freezing of the soil, preferably on a level with the already existing foundation. Waterproofing is laid in the trench, a reinforcing frame is created and concrete is poured. Considering that the masonry on the facade, even made of light facing bricks, will have considerable weight, you should wait until the poured base has completely hardened before continuing work.

Sheets of insulating material are attached to the load-bearing wall with special metal and polymer anchors. Anchors have wide hold-down areas in the middle, which hold the insulation. The elongated shanks of the dowel-anchors are embedded in the outer masonry and provide a mechanical connection between the bearing and front walls. It is important to provide an air gap between the insulation layer and the outer wall to prevent condensation, and provide ventilation holes in the outermost masonry. If this is not possible, then it is imperative to cover the insulating material with a vapor barrier film.

"Wet facade"
This technology got its name from the application of several layers of liquid plaster. Insulation panels are glued to the pre-primed facade walls, usually of fire-resistant foam. Additionally, the insulation is fixed with polymer dowels with wide caps. Corners and window sills are reinforced with perforated aluminum corners... Then the surface is covered with an adhesive, on which a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is laid to prevent cracking. After the adhesive has dried, the facade is covered with a layer of water-repellent protective plaster or polymer. The next stage is decorative plaster.

Curtain facade
This method of insulation is also called "ventilated facade". Its basis is the installation of a rigid metal frame around the perimeter of the house. The profile for the frame can be aluminum or steel, galvanized. An insulating material is attached to the load-bearing wall with dowels, which is covered with a windproof vapor-permeable membrane. Then, facing panels made of porcelain stoneware or metal with a polymer coating are installed on the external fasteners of the frame. In this case, the joints and seams are not sealed, and air circulates freely between the outer skin and the insulation, preventing the formation of condensation.

This type of insulation material is rigid polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam panels, with clinker facing tiles on the outside. These panels are installed directly on the load-bearing wall and are fixed with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails.

Additionally, cement or adhesive is applied to the inner surface. Installation is carried out in rows from the lower left corner of the building. The gaps between the panels are filled with polyurethane foam, and on top with frost-resistant grout. Upon completion of the work, the appearance of the building is no different from that insulated by the "well masonry" method, while the cost of materials and the duration of the work are much lower.

Insulation "under siding"
When the facade of the building is planned to be finished with siding, then they can act as insulation as different kinds stone or glass wool, as well as expanded polystyrene, expanded polyester and even roll materials. In the case of the latter, they are attached directly to the walls, and then pressed against the lathing. If a dense insulation material is used, then first a lattice frame is formed, into the cells of which insulation sheets will be tightly inserted. Additionally, the thermal insulation is fixed with dowels with disc caps, and all joints are glued with mounting tape.

A prerequisite is the provision of vapor barrier insulation. For timber and brick houses, the vapor barrier membrane must be installed on the wall before starting to install the insulation material.

On top of the frame grill, filled with insulation, moisture and wind protection is attached. Then, a counter-lattice is constructed from a thin bar, which presses the protective membranes and will act as a base for attaching the siding. Another function of the second lathing is to create a ventilation gap between the facade cladding and the insulation. Providing free air circulation is a prerequisite for preventing the appearance of mold and mildew, which thrive in humid environments.

Video: 10 stages of facade insulation with foam

For several decades, mankind has been trying to find ways to reduce energy consumption, the lion's share of which is occupied by heating buildings. By minimizing heat loss as much as possible, one can expect a significant economic effect. New progressive technologies that have proven themselves perfectly in all climatic conditions were found more than 30 years ago. The technique is being improved from year to year; manufacturers produce various building materials for facade insulation. Some countries have launched energy saving programs based on the idea of \u200b\u200bwet insulation of facades.

How to insulate the facade

Thermal insulation of facades is a popular way exterior decoration buildings and energy saving at the same time. This procedure solves several problems at once: protects walls from adverse weather factors, retains heat in the house, and decorates facades. Today, many companies offer their services for external wall insulation. However, the price of facade insulation does not correspond to the quality of the materials used. For this reason, developers choose the option of self-warming walls with foam or other insulation.

Material selection

Insulating the walls of the house, you can rationally and creatively approach the choice of materials. It makes no sense to insulate all walls with material of the same thickness. Combine insulation. Since more heat gets to the south wall, different thicknesses of insulation can be used. Be sure to restrict access to all kinds of rodents by insulating the plinth of the facades with extruded polystyrene foam. For the corners, take a thicker layer of insulation.

Mineral wool

For facade insulation, you can use various materials... Mineral wool is an inorganic fibrous material that is made from silicate rock melts, mixtures of sedimentary rocks and metallurgical slags. Basalt (stone) and glass materials are used to insulate facades with mineral wool. Mineral wool slabs are used to insulate facades by the "wet" method or by the "hinged ventilated facade" method.

Mineral wool can withstand temperatures of more than 1000 degrees Celsius and does not melt at the same time, has high thermal insulation properties and significant resistance to mechanical stress. Mineral wool does not absorb moisture, has high biological and chemical resistance, as well as good sound-absorbing properties, reducing noise by 20%. The service life of mineral wool reaches 30-40 years.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam is one of the most popular materials for wall insulation. This substance began to be produced in the 30s of the last century, and at the moment the foam has not lost its leading position. The excellent thermal insulation properties of the foam are provided due to a specific production technology, when polystyrene is foamed with the help of special equipment, and as a result, small, air-filled bubbles are formed.

The foam is almost 98% air, which makes the material lightweight and waterproof. Another advantage is the low cost of manufacturing and the price of facade insulation with foam. Foam-finished facades reduce heat loss by about 70%. Modern styrofoam does not support combustion and actively resists this process. But if there are problems with rodents on your site, then it is better to abandon this venture.

Preparing the walls

From correct conduct preparation of the base depends on the functionality and durability of the insulation produced. Initially, all protruding structures and elements, such as ventilation grates, storm gutters, outdoor units of climate technology, window sills, lighting devices. The communications passing along the facades, falling into the plane of the insulated wall, should also be removed. In old houses, very often brickwork has many decorative elements that are located near the cornices and windows.

We check the plastered walls by knocking for the strength of the exterior finish. Using plumb lines, long rules and cords, you should find the general deviations of the wall from the vertical or find local irregularities. Mark problem areas with chalk so as not to lose sight of them. If large differences in level are observed on the plane and weakly adhering areas are contained, then work on warming the facades on such a basis should be carried out after dismantling the protruding and breathing plaster cakes.

Particular attention should be paid to the areas where the oil paint, which has a low level of adhesion and poor vapor permeability. Be sure to remove any fungus, mold, grease, efflorescence and rust from the walls. Large potholes and cracks are primed with deeply penetrating compounds with the help of maklavits and, after complete drying, are sealed with putties for outdoor use. Cracks that are up to 2 millimeters wide do not need to be repaired. Large local depressions are usually leveled by gluing pieces of insulation.

When the walls are leveled, communications are laid, the outer brackets are lengthened, all wet works are finished inside the building, the roof and waterproofing are arranged, then you can prime the surface and start insulating the facade with expanded polystyrene.

Securing the plinth profile

According to the project, it is worth determining the lower point of the surface to be insulated, then using the hydro level to transfer this mark to all external and internal corners of the structure, and then connect them with a coated cord to get the starting line. According to the markings, it is necessary to install a basement profile in order to hold the first row of insulation boards, because they have a very serious movement on the wet glue.

The starting bar is selected according to the size that corresponds to the width of the insulation, and is fixed using dowels with a diameter of 6 millimeters at intervals of 300 - 350 millimeters; it is recommended to put on washers on the hammer nail. The starter strip is joined at the corners using bevel cuts or using a corner connector. Connecting and end elements made of plastic are placed between the sections of the profiles, which compensate for thermal expansion.

Installation of external window sills

It is better to install external window sills before installing insulation on the facade. Ebb tides are attached directly to the window itself. The removal of the window sill is done taking into account the external insulation of the facade (the thickness of the insulation + 1 centimeter) in such a way that the window sill protrudes 3-4 centimeters behind the finished wall. Sometimes the window is placed on the start profile. In this case, a cavity is obtained under the window sill in which moisture condenses. The cavity should be filled with pieces of insulation mixed with an adhesive mixture, or it can be covered with plaster.

Next, it is necessary to insulate the external slopes of plastic windows. After installing windows, as a rule, 20-30 millimeters remain for insulation. Take foam plastic should be less thick than the material for the facade. And do not forget that there are still other layers in addition to insulation, which take 1 centimeter away. When insulating slopes, the foam plastic should protrude 1 centimeter beyond the slope. That is, the material does not need to be cut, focusing on the wall.

Glue

The prepared adhesives for gluing the insulation should be used within a couple of hours, so they are kneaded at the construction site in the required amount. The required amount of water is poured into a volumetric plastic bucket and the dry mixture is poured. The components are mixed with a low-speed drill until a homogeneous mass is obtained without the presence of lumps. The solution matures for about five minutes, after which it is stirred again for a minute.

If the adhesive mixture thickens a little in the process, then it just needs to be mixed. To liquefy the thickened adhesive, do not add water to it. Depending on which plane you need to compensate for the differences, you can choose one of these options for applying glue to the insulation.

If the irregularities reach 15 millimeters, then a strip of glue 20 millimeters high is applied along the perimeter of the slab, and then several beacons are evenly applied in the middle of the slab. For defects up to 10 millimeters, glue strips are applied along the perimeter of the slab and in the middle. The width of the strips is 30-40 millimeters, the adhesive should cover 50-60% of the total sheet area.

Insulation sticker

When the insulation is glued to the slopes, and the window sills are installed, you can start gluing the material to the walls. Facade insulation technology involves such a fastener for the insulation, when it is first glued and then nailed. We start gluing the foam from the bottom, where we set the starting bar. For gluing, you need 2 spatulas: small (80mm) and large (200mm). We use a small tool to apply the adhesive to a large spatula.

It is customary to apply the mixture not on the sheet, but on the wall. As a rule, the wall is not completely flat. Therefore, you can put more mixture there if you need to remove the unevenness. Thus, the mixture is not spread evenly. We smear only on perfectly flat. The sheets should be fastened in such a way that T-joints are obtained.

Sheets should be applied to the place with a slight offset, close to 20-30 millimeters, then they are pressed with a long half-trowel or rule into the surface of neighboring plates. From the inside of the boards and from the surface of the base, the emerging adhesive must be removed. The verticality of installation of sheets is checked by the level, the direction of the plane is controlled by the control threads.

All sheets should be tightly pressed together at a distance that should not exceed 2 millimeters, so you should make sure that the mixture does not get into the seams. If, in the end, the gaps are obtained, then they can be filled with strips of insulation, or blown out with polyurethane foam. At the joints of products, the permissible difference in thickness is no more than 3 millimeters.

It is important that vertical joints with side slopes do not line up near doors and windows. The connection must be made above or below the opening, the offset must be at least 200 millimeters. If different materials are connected on the basis, then the plates in this place should not be joined, it is necessary to provide an offset of at least 100 millimeters.

On the outer and inner corners of the facades, it is necessary to carry out a serrated connection of the insulation. The slabs of the corresponding rows must wedge into the surface of the adjacent walls so that a long vertical seam is not formed, which is subject to cracking. On slopes and corners, the slabs are mounted with a sufficient outlet for bandaging. After the glue has set and the corner has been formed, the insulation can be trimmed.

Between gluing the insulation and nailing it is worth waiting three days for the glue to properly set, and all the material to "sit down". When self-insulation of the facade with foam plastic, you can do it differently and paste over the house in sections. Half of the work will have to be done from the ground and the other half from some kind of scaffold. Therefore, it is more advisable to carry out the procedure in parts, so as not to rearrange or carry the platform several times.

If you insulate the whole house at once, then the foam will stay in the sun for two weeks. And it won't do him any good. In addition, in case of rain, the insulation will pick up excess moisture. The plots should be as tall as the paver and as a scaffold in width.

Nailing insulation

Insulation is recommended to be glued three days after the gluing is completed. If you start drilling the material with not dried glue mixture, then it can move away from the wall. When nailing down "fresh", there is a possibility of getting into the recess under the sheet, which provokes a rise in the edges of the sheet.

The glued insulation should be fixed to the wall with fungi. This dowel is a plastic circle - a cap that has a plastic sleeve - a leg, and a nail driven into this sleeve. Nails are available in plastic and metal. As strange as it sounds, it is better to choose plastic products, because metal creates an additional cold bridge, and are also more expensive, which leads to an increase in the cost of facade insulation.

As a rule, fastening is carried out in the center and at the corners of the slab, 6-8 dowels per 1 square meter. At the corners of the building, near the door and window slopes, in the basement area, it is necessary to equip additional fasteners, which are located 200 mm from the edge of the plates. The pitch and the number of additional nail placement is determined by the dimensions of the house, the size of the plates, the bearing characteristics of the fasteners and wind loads.

Holes of the required depth and diameter are drilled with a perforator, dust is removed. The length of the fungus is determined in this way: the thickness of the insulation plate + 1 centimeter (thickness of other layers) + 4 centimeters into the wall. The holes are recommended to be made in depth by 10-15 millimeters more than the length of the rod. If you drill holes in depth equal to the length of the fungus, then the debris that crumbles during operation will not allow the dowel to be properly hammered into it.

Next, you need to insert a dowel into the hole and hammer a spacer nail with a rubber hammer. You can just knock it out with your fist. The dish-shaped nail head should be at the level of the insulation surface, or protrude no more than 1 millimeter. If the mushroom does not reach the norm and sticks out, then maybe the drill has been ground off, or a hole has been made too short. In the latter case, you need to pull out the mushroom, drill and reinsert it.

Reinforced layer device

Reinforcement layer implies the creation of an auxiliary, reinforcing mesh layer. The corners near door and window openings must be glued with reinforcing mesh patches. The size of such patches should be 200 x 300 mm or more. Such an operation helps to prevent the appearance of cracks near the inner corners of the opening.

All external corners of the building, including protruding decorations and slopes, should be reinforced with plastic or aluminum perforated corners, which are available with mesh strips. First, an adhesive composition is applied, then the pre-cut perforated corner should be pressed tightly against the insulation with a spatula and set horizontally or vertically with a level.

The protruding glue must be smoothed over the plane of the wall. If necessary, the perforated corner can be temporarily fixed, leveled, pulled, inserting nails into the insulation plate through the perforation holes. After the preparatory layer has completely dried and the reinforcing elements are fixed, we install the main mesh.

To strengthen the foam, a mesh is used that is specially designed for facade works... It is made of alkali-resistant fiberglass that can withstand the design loads. To protect the installation of the reinforcing mesh, a special mixture is used, which is slightly different from the one with which the facade is insulated with cotton wool.

Before starting work, the glued plates are sanded hand graters using coarse sandpaper to eliminate possible drops at the joints of the sheets. Before applying the solution, the surface must be free from sanding products, dust and various contaminants. The mesh is cut into strips equal to the height of the walls. Glue is applied to the walls in vertical stripes equal to the width of the canvas.

The solution is applied in a uniform layer, the thickness of which is approximately 2 mm. For this, it is most convenient to use a metal grater. The prepared canvas should be unwound to the entire length of the surface, applied to the solution and embedded in it using a smooth metal spatula. The mesh must be gently smoothed from the middle to the edges. Smooth out protruding adhesive on the surface.

Apply another layer of mortar to the glued reinforcement layer using the wet-on-wet method. The second layer is leveled more carefully, the finished mesh should not be visible from it. The next day, the reinforcing cake can be sanded with sandpaper, or small shells can be putty on. After about 3 days, the walls are completely dry and should be treated with a quartz sand primer, which facilitates the application of decorative plaster.

And finally. The technology of insulating the facade with foam means performing work at an outdoor air temperature of + 5 to 25 degrees and a relative humidity of close to 80%. At each stage, the work surfaces should be protected from exposure to sunlight, strong wind and rain. Follow the recommendations described above and you will succeed!

Rising energy prices put the issue of home insulation in the first place. This will save about 30-40% of the heating costs. To determine the options insulation materials, it is worth considering the advantages and disadvantages of existing technologies.

Takes a leading position among other heaters due to affordable price and low thermal conductivity (0.0028-0.0033 W / m / K). A large number of domestic manufacturers reduce the cost of transportation when delivering material to the installation site. Expanded polystyrene is produced by extrusion, produced in plates of different density and thickness.

Benefits:

Possesses excellent thermal insulation properties;

Simple installation technology;

Easy to process;

Does not absorb moisture;

Affordable prices, both for material and installation work.

Disadvantages:

Low air permeability;

After installation, finishing is required;

A loose structure is easily damaged by mechanical stress.

Important! Such a lack of polystyrene, such as low vapor permeability, can be easily corrected by arranging a ventilation system in the dwelling, which ensures the circulation of air masses.

Installation features

The technology of insulating facades with expanded polystyrene provides the following stages:

Cleaning the working surface from crumbling and damaged fragments;

Sealing cracks and cracks with cement mortar;

Fixation along the bottom line of the facade of the starting profile;

Laying insulation boards on glue, starting from the bottom (rows are formed in a checkerboard pattern);

Fastening the foam with special dowels (performed after the glue has dried);

Sealing board joints;

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Laying on the surface of the reinforcing mesh;

Application of a layer of plaster;

Wall priming;

Painting with facade paint.

When calculating the thickness of foam plates, the following are taken into account: thermal conductivity of walls, heat losses of the room, power of the heating system.

Of the mineral heat insulators, basalt wool is more popular due to its low moisture absorption rate and other equally valuable qualities:

Low thermal conductivity (0.0035 W / m / K);

Water vapor permeability;

Soundproofing characteristics;

Hypoallergenic composition, absence of toxic substances in it;

Fire safety (flammability class G1);

Resistance to external factors and microbiological processes.

The disadvantages include:

The need to install a crate (made of wood or metal profiles);

The formation of cracks at the joints of the sheets as a result of shrinkage;

High price.

Reference! Basalt wool with a density of 90-135 kg / m3 is more often chosen for insulation of facades.

Installation features

Facade insulation technology with basalt wool consists of the following stages:

Preparation of the working surface for installation (cleaning, sealing holes and cracks);

Installation of the crate (the parameters of the cells must correspond to the dimensions of the roll cloths);

Fastening the vapor barrier membrane (some craftsmen fix it under the frame elements);

Laying mineral wool in cells (it should fit snugly on all sides, but not deform);

Shelter of the insulation with a waterproofing film (fixation is carried out to the crate with a construction stapler);

Mounting facing material (siding, finishing boards, panels).

Important! Declared properties correspond only to insulation made by a bona fide manufacturer. Before buying, you should familiarize yourself with user reviews regarding the quality of the products. The material, the production of which was carried out without taking into account state standards, is not capable of creating reliable thermal protection.

Thermal panels with clinker tiles

This material has all the advantages of expanded polystyrene and polyurethane insulation, but unlike them, it does not require additional costs for facing work. The panel consists of an insulation layer and clinker tiles imitating brickwork... Installation is not difficult, but it contains a number of nuances, which are available to every developer to master. The only drawbacks are the high price.

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Installation features

Facade insulation technology with thermal panels consists of the following stages:

Surface preparation (cleaning, sealing of deformations);

Installation of a basement profile;

Fixing on glue each element with a winding in the grooves of the previous panel;

Additional fastening of panels with special dowels;

Sealing joints at joints with polyurethane foam;

Grouting with a frost-resistant compound;

Removing grout residues from surfaces.

Important! You should start insulating the facades of a new building only after the structure has completely shrunk.

Other insulation for facades

Among the huge selection building materials deserve attention and others, distinguished by no less high performance. It:

Polyurethane (applied with special equipment by spraying);

Panels "Eco-Shield" (has a layer of expanded polystyrene);

Special heat-shielding plaster (Lamb, Bark beetle, etc.).

Watch the video "How and how to insulate the walls of the house outside"

Mistakes that are more often made when insulating facades

When performing any installation works it is recommended to follow the technological process to avoid gross mistakes, additional money and time are spent on their correction later. According to expert reviews, a list of common violations has been compiled.

1. Installation of insulation materials should not be performed on the facades of dilapidated buildings. There will be little sense from such thermal protection. The walls must be strong and reliable without signs of deformation (cracks, cracks).

2. Many owners purchase thermal insulation without preliminary calculations of the thermal conductivity of the walls of the house, believing that it is better to choose something averaged or the most dense material. This is wrong, as it increases the risk of wasting money (when buying a thick heat insulator) or a decrease in the effectiveness of the heat-shielding layer (when buying an insufficiently dense product). The average thickness of mineral wool or foam for most regions of our country is 10 cm.

External insulation gives a much better effect than insulating a house from the inside. In addition to the main functions, the insulation protects the walls from precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering and thereby prolongs the service life of the entire building. Installation of insulation does not require special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners easily cope with this task on their own. But in order to do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to know what materials there are for insulating walls from the outside, and how to fix them correctly.

Despite the fact that the operating conditions outside and inside the house are strikingly different, in both cases the same materials can be used. Nevertheless, when choosing a heater, preference should be given to those options that best meet the following requirements:

• increased resistance to shrinkage;
• resistance to mechanical damage;
• uV resistance;
• durability;
• ease of installation;
• resistance to insects and microorganisms.

For wooden houses, the vapor transmission capacity of the insulation is also important, because wooden walls must "breathe". As a rule, finishing coatings for facades are designed for long-term operation, and it is too troublesome and not always advisable to remove them every few years to replace worn-out thermal insulation. At the same time, if the insulation under the finish is compressed, cracked, starts to rot or mice gnaw it, it will no longer be able to retain heat, which means that it will not be possible to do without repairs. That is why it is so important that the selected material fully meets the specified criteria.

Types of insulation materials

At the moment, the construction market offers the following materials for house insulation:

They all differ in technical specifications, installation technologies, have different service life. Moreover, each of them is suitable for outdoor use and has its own advantages. Let's consider these materials in more detail.

Mineral wool is made from fine fibers obtained by melting and spraying glass, blast furnace slag or rocks. Depending on the location of the fibers, the structure of the insulation can be corrugated, vertically layered and horizontally layered, have different density and thickness. Each type of mineral wool has its own characteristics:

Mineral wool is produced in slabs and mats with different options coatings - kraft paper, aluminum foil, fiberglass. Basalt insulation is the most expensive in terms of cost, and the higher its density, the more expensive it is.

The benefits of mineral wool:

• fine-fiber structure contributes to the free passage of air and water vapor, so the risk of condensation on the insulated surface is minimal;
• thanks to the mineral base, the material is not subject to combustion, which means it is an additional protection for walls from fire;
• the insulation has a relatively high moisture resistance, and therefore effectively prevents the penetration of moisture into the house;
• mineral wool perfectly absorbs sounds and vibrations, and street noise almost does not penetrate into the insulated room;
• the insulation is lightweight, easy to process, thanks to its elasticity, it quickly restores its shape after wrinkling during installation;
• microorganisms, insects do not develop in mineral wool, rodents do not like it.

Disadvantages:

• mineral wool tends to shrink, and the lower the density of the material, the faster deformations occur. Less prone to shrinkage rigid basalt slabs, but due to the high cost, not everyone can afford such thermal insulation;
• with prolonged wetting, the insulation is saturated with moisture and loses its thermal insulation qualities;
• microscopic fibers are easily destroyed by squeezing and cutting the material, and then settle on the skin, causing irritation, can get into the eyes and lungs. Glass wool is considered the most dangerous in this regard, but with other types of mineral wool, at least gloves and a respirator should be used.

Popular brands of mineral wool.

Name	Brief characteristics
	Basalt insulation with increased rigidity, produced in the form of plates with a thickness of 25 to 180 mm. Suitable for all types of facades, can be used as a base for plastering. Differs in resistance to deformation and shrinkage, water resistance, low thermal conductivity, absolutely non-flammable. Fastening is carried out with dowels and glue
	A type of glass wool with various additives that improve the characteristics of the insulation. It is produced in plates and rolls, there are options with a foil coating. It is widely used for thermal insulation of all types of facades, frame structures, internal partitions, roofing systems
	Fiberglass insulation that does not contain formaldehyde additives. Produced in plates and rolls, it is distinguished by biological and chemical resistance, elasticity, good vapor permeability. Material thickness - from 5 to 10 cm
	Glass wool insulation with a high content of water repellents. It is produced in the form of rolls, mats, rigid and semi-rigid plates, 50-100 mm thick. Suitable for all types of surfaces, ventilated facades, frame structures

Prices for mineral wool

Polyfoam and EPS

Heaters based on expanded polystyrene are excellent heat insulators due to their closed cellular structure. Almost 98% of the material is air or an inert gas, enclosed in sealed cells, so the insulation weighs very little. Both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam practically do not absorb moisture, which means they are excellent for warming foundations, plinths, basements. When insulating facades, these materials serve as the basis for applying plaster.

Benefits:

• polystyrene foam insulation weighs little and is easy to process during installation, so a beginner can cope with this. In addition, such thermal insulation does not exert a large load on the base, which means that there is no need for additional reinforcement of the supporting structures;
• microorganisms cannot develop in expanded polystyrene, therefore, fungi and mold are not afraid of insulation;
• with proper installation, these materials serve for a long time, especially EPS - up to 50 years;
• styrofoam and EPS are resistant to soap and salt solutions, alkalis, bleach and other chemically aggressive substances;
• installation does not require the use of protective equipment in the form of a respirator or gloves, since the insulation does not emit toxic fumes or small particles, does not cause irritation.

Disadvantages:

• expanded polystyrene refers to vapor-proof materials, and therefore cannot be used to insulate wooden walls;
• the insulation collapses upon contact with solvents, drying oil, some types of varnishes, as well as under the influence of sunlight;
• sound insulation properties are much lower than that of mineral wool insulation;
• already at + 30 degrees, polystyrene foam begins to emit harmful substances - toluene, styrene, formaldehyde and others. When burning, the amount of toxic emissions increases significantly.

On the domestic market, domestic-made EPSPs - "Penoplex" and "Tepleks", as well as expanded polystyrene insulation of the brands Ursa, GREENPLEX, PRIMAPLEX are in great demand.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Cellulose insulation

Cellulose insulation, also called ecowool, is made from paper waste and waste paper. Ecowool is 80% cellulose fibers, the remaining 20% \u200b\u200bare antiseptics and fire retardants. The material is densely packed into all irregularities and voids and forms a dense seamless coating with high vapor permeability. Installation of insulation is carried out in two ways - dry and wet-glue, and both options can be done either manually or using a special installation.

The dry method allows you to perform thermal insulation in a short time and immediately start finishing... But at the same time, the density of the coating will not be high enough, which will lead to shrinkage and the appearance of cold bridges. In addition, during dry blowing, a large amount of fine dust is formed and you have to work in a respirator.

The wet-glue method provides better adhesion of the insulation to the base, the layer is much denser and more resistant to shrinkage, which guarantees the durability of the thermal insulation. True, it takes time for the material to dry - from 2 to 3 days, and even more in cold or damp weather. And until the layer is completely dry, you cannot start finishing.

Benefits:

• environmental Safety;
• excellent heat and sound insulation properties;
• resistance to bacteria, fungi, insects;
• fire resistance;
• long service life;
• affordable price.

• tendency to shrinkage;
• high hygroscopicity;
• laboriousness of performing work by hand.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam, or polyurethane foam, belongs to the new generation of heaters and has improved characteristics compared to traditional materials. It is a liquid polymer mixture that, after being applied to the surface, hardens and forms a tough cellular coating. The components are mixed immediately before starting work, and the finished solution is applied by spraying using a special installation.

Benefits:

• the liquid mixture easily fills in all irregularities, cracks, recesses, it is conveniently applied in hard-to-reach places;
• the material retains heat well and muffles sounds;
• PPU is resistant to chemically aggressive substances, practically does not absorb water, withstands sudden temperature changes;
• can be applied to any type of surface - wood, concrete, brick, metal;
• the insulation is very light, therefore it does not require reinforcement of the bearing bases;
• the average service life is 25-30 years.

• polyurethane foam is destroyed by exposure to sunlight;
• spraying requires equipment and skills to work with it;
• PPU cannot be used in areas that are very hot;
• high cost of material and services of specialists.

Wall insulation technology

Thermal insulation of the facade can be performed in different ways, depending on the type of insulation. But for all options a prerequisite is a high-quality preparation of the base, because no insulation can stop the processes of destruction of wall materials. Consider the methods of insulation with mineral wool and polystyrene foam plates, as the most popular in frequent construction.

Mineral wool insulation

Exterior walls are cleaned of dirt, peeling plaster or paint. Cracks and problem areas are repaired, the places affected by the fungus must be treated. Small irregularities do not need to be eliminated - mineral wool insulation is mounted using a frame, so all defects will disappear inside. At the end, the walls are covered with a waterproof primer with antiseptic properties so that mold does not develop under the thermal insulation layer.

Step 1. The bars for the frame are cut to the desired length, treated with antiseptic impregnation on all sides and dried in air.

Council. The cross-section of the beams should be selected taking into account the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. That is, if slabs with a thickness of 50 mm are stacked in one row, the thickness of the frame should be 5-6 cm, with two-layer laying - at least 11 cm.In the first case, a bar with a section of 50x50 mm is suitable for the racks, in the second - a board of 40x110 mm, installed on the edge.

Step 2. On the walls, markings are made for the frame guides strictly according to the level, holes are drilled for fasteners and beams are installed. The distance between the posts should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation plate. During the installation process, the location of the elements is controlled by the building level; if necessary, wooden linings are used under the timber so that all the racks are in the same plane.

Step 3... Insulation is inserted into the cells of the frame. To do this, the plates are slightly squeezed along the edges, pressed between the racks and released. The material spreads out on its own and fills the space tightly. The insulation must be inserted so that there are no gaps between the plates.

Step 4. After filling all the cells from above, the insulation must be closed with a windproof moisture-proof membrane. The membrane is laid with the marked side out, the canvases are arranged horizontally, starting from the bottom. A construction stapler is used to fix the membrane. The upper canvas is laid with an overlap of 8-10 cm, and it is recommended to glue the joints with tape.

Step 5... On top of the membrane, wooden slats of counter-lattice 30-40 mm thick are stuffed to ensure an air gap. If this is not done, condensation will accumulate on the insulation, moisture will saturate the wooden frame and the structure will become unusable faster.

After that, it remains only to mount topcoat, for example, siding or corrugated board. The finish must completely cover the thermal insulation layer so that no precipitation falls on the plates. Only under such conditions will the material last a long time and effectively.

Last step - decorative finishing facade

Warming with expanded polystyrene

This method of insulation is markedly different from the previous one. First, the base must be leveled so that the material adheres tightly to the surface. Secondly, the installation is carried out without lathing, the plates are attached with glue and dowels-fungi.

Step 1. The prepared walls are covered with a quartz sand primer, for example, Betokontakt. If the substrate is porous, the primer is applied in 2 layers.

Step 2. Determine the lower boundary of the thermal insulation and draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the house. Drill holes for dowels according to the marking with a step of 20-30 cm and fix the starting plate.

Starter bar fixed

Step 3. You will need special glue to fix the insulation. It is possible to use assembly adhesive in cylinders, for example, TYTAN STYRO 753, or dry adhesive mixture (Ceresit CT 83). The mixture is diluted in clean water according to the manufacturer's instructions, mixed until homogeneous with a mixer at low speed.

Take the first sheet, apply glue from the back in a continuous strip along the perimeter and in the center. Next, they apply insulation to the wall, resting the lower edge on the starting profile, check the location with a level, press firmly against the base.

Step 4. The entire row is fixed, tightly joining the sheets together. The next row starts with half of the sheet to offset the vertical seams. Excess glue protruding at the joints is carefully removed with a spatula.

Step 5. When the glue hardens, each sheet must be fixed with disc dowels. To do this, carefully drill holes in the wall through the insulation, insert the dowels and carefully hammer them in with a hammer. One sheet requires 5 fasteners - in each corner and in the center.

Step 6. Next, the glue solution is kneaded, applied in a continuous layer to the insulation, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is laid on top and immersed in the solution. Openings and corners are additionally reinforced with corner profiles.

When the solution dries, the surface is sanded, dedusted and plastered with a thin layer. Now all that remains is to paint the facade or apply decorative plaster.

Ceresit glue prices

Ceresit glue

Video - Materials for wall insulation outside

Video - Insulation of the facade with penoplex