The smell of dry wood, walls that are pleasant to hold with your hand, a garden that is beautiful at any time of the year ... Landscape designer and a student of the school "Details" Elena Polevaya built wooden house from hewn logs price Kaluga Region |

The layout is very simple: entrance hall, living room-kitchen and bedroom with bathroom.

Lunch group. Furniture from "Inlavka" collection "Estate" and "Province".

The wooden house, she said, is being assembled quickly, but it did not work out quickly here: there was not enough money, so the construction was delayed for several years. It took about a year to design and erect a log house, another year the house was shrinking. The hostess worked on the interior for only two months.

Almost all the furniture was bought at Inlavka, it was on budget and was in stock. Elena did not want to wait.

“For me, the most important thing is the atmosphere of this house,” says Elena. - The closer you come to it, the brighter the feeling that you find yourself in a magical place where time stands still. It's like opening grandma's chest with things dear to your heart! ”

The kitchen is combined with the living room and dining room.

The enchanting atmosphere is created not so much by things as by the walls: the house is built of a solid log house, the diameter of the logs reaches thirty centimeters. The smell of dry wood, the walls, along which it is pleasant to hold your hand, the garden is beautiful at any time of the year ... What else is needed for happiness?

The house was easy to build, the only challenge was the small floor space and limited budget. And a big advantage is the ceiling height, in the ridge it reaches five meters. It gives the space air and pushes the boundaries.

During the debate that erupted after the publication of the article "Ours in America", a reader contacted the editorial office of the site, wishing to tell about his personal experience... Vyacheslav has been living with his family in a solid log house for four years now. And according to him, if he knew all the "nuances" at the time of the choice of material, he would build a house from bricks or blocks. Below in the text - his personal "Top reasons why you should not build a house from a log house." To preserve authenticity, we left the text almost unchanged, making only light stylistic changes.

Why did we want a wooden house?

1. Once we saw with our own eyes a log house - we immediately liked it, it looked very beautiful, we wanted the same one for ourselves.

2. For practical reasons: initially it was assumed that we would come on weekends, fire a solid fuel boiler and quickly warm up the house (the concept changed during the construction process).

3. Environmental friendliness: I wanted the house to breathe easily and smell like a pine forest. In general, I liked the traditional concept of living in a private house: a wooden blockhouse, grass near the house, a forest nearby, etc.

summer house

Start of construction

back view

Here I managed to learn a little from other people's mistakes. My friend, in order to save money, bought timber himself. As a result, a timber truck came to him, the cutters selected suitable logs, half of the timber truck left back ... As a result, 120 cubic meters wood turned into 200 for him. I worked with contractors who sorted wood at their base, and only what really went to work was brought to the site.

view from the yard

Initially, I was not worried about the construction process, as I trusted the contractors. In the course of the work, they still "screwed up" in places, but not much (more on that below). The logs were laid on the moss. Chopped and chopped - by hand. After they made the "box" with the roof, the house was defended for a year.

from the entrance

Of the interesting things in the construction process, I can note the discrepancy between the actual sizes of the rooms and their visual perception until the floor is covered. I personally measured the 19-meter kitchen with a tape measure, because visually it seemed that there were 7-8 meters there. And so - with all the rooms.

Finishing

The most interesting thing started at this stage. At first, the house needs to be polished ALL on both sides. This work is dreary and not cheap - prices for work can be found on the Internet, four years ago it cost us a pretty penny (375 sq. M. At $ 5 per sq. M.). Moreover, when calculating the area of \u200b\u200bwork, the bending of the log is added to the formula "height for length" - the area increases.

top plinth - adjustment to curves

Then - impregnation ($ 0.7 per sq.m.). Then - painting in one layer. Then - in the second (both - $ 1 per 1 sq.m.). Moreover, so that the materials lay down qualitatively, you need to paint the house by hand (which stretches the process over time). After all these procedures, the question of the "breathing house" and the "smell of pine" disappeared by itself.
We did not make a basement, so we have a simple foundation: an ASG pillow, insulation, concrete. The builders who filled the floor did not completely cut out the lower logs in doorways... As a result, a year later the floor tiles (porcelain stoneware) were "torn" in these places. I had to remove the entire damaged tile, cut out the logs, and fill in the new floor. This turned out to be easier than somehow cutting out the laid tiles - not every tile cutter takes porcelain stoneware.

a crack in the tile remained in the doorway

To the "pleasant" moments of finishing, regular finishing mossstolen by birds, and sealing joints with a sealant... This work is long, monetary and dreary. Fortunately, there is a sealant manufacturer in Belarus that offers products at reasonable prices. If he missed with imported ones, he would be ruined to hell.

Laying of communications in a log house also becomes a problem. To cut a socket into a round log is another task (and the "tariff" is appropriate). You can't hide the pipes inside. Attaching a plinth to an uneven log is also not an easy task, you will have to "think" and work with your hands.

plinth - plank + mastic

Due to the long shrinkage of the house, doors and windows were inserted into a frame made of boards. If you try to bet on a "live log" - the risks of getting "sikos-nakos" increase significantly. Like risk of damaging a door or window... But even this "trick" did not help us personally: for 4 years of operation, the doors were adjusted twice. And some windows are still "siphoned".

Home operation

box for the kitchen (left against the wall)

The house is constantly "breathing". When the heating works, when not, everything moves. To hang the kitchen, it was necessary to build a metal frame, sheathe it with drywall, and only attach the kitchen to it. No other way. It is absolutely impossible to install sliding wardrobes so beloved by our citizens - there is nothing to "attach" to, and the wall and ceiling live their own lives. The staircase, which was “tied” to the wall, was distorted as a result, the railing was torn out.

instead of a wardrobe ...

Any decorative boxes that cover communications turn into a work of art - they need to be somehow combine with a log wall, and this process turns into jewelry fitting with a construction cutter in hand.

The joints covered with sealant were greased twice in 4 years. Does not matter - cracks appear... The wooden floor on the 2nd floor is also drying out, there are also cracks, and this is inevitable.

crack between logs

In the fall mice enter the house, in the gap between the lower log and the foundation. They have not been able to block this road for them yet, since the interface line is very uneven. And if on the main "animal paths" this phenomenon can be reduced "to naught" with the help of poison and mousetraps, then when mice frolic between the logs without visiting "nothing can be done with them. Only curse.

Also between the logs every year wasps make their nests... The issue is solved with the help of "Dichlorvos". But it still has to be solved.

In autumn and early winter, on the second floor there is a kingdom of flies. First flies clog in the cracks for winter. Then it gets warm in the house - and they climb inside. Against this fraternity, we have not yet come up with any other remedy except a vacuum cleaner.

We are also the best friends of the Tikkurila paint sellers. There need to tint, here you need to tint: steps, joints, terrace. They did not keep exact records of production, but a lot of paint buckets were bought in 4 years.

In the spring, when the pine (and then the birch) blooms, all house is covered yellow pollen... Moreover - in a thick layer. On a flat vertical wall, it would not simply accumulate so much. This issue is solved by washing the walls with a jet from "Karcher". But again, it needs to be addressed.

Bath

Inside the house dust accumulates on the bend of the logs... There are already no universal remedies - the dust can only be removed manually, in the old fashioned way.

Sometimes inside the house there are spontaneous, inexplicable bursts of life - some bugs, midges, insects appear, but I have not yet installed any system here.

In the bathhouse, near the guest bed, in a log lives some kind of playful creature, crunching a log all night long. Finding and killing her is not possible.

And finally - about the famous "winter" forest. My house was cut down from the February one. Bath - from August. I still haven't noticed the difference.

Issue price

Considering all of the above, such housing cannot be called cheap. House with a total area of \u200b\u200b240 sq. m. (with a little attic floor) it cost me $ 40,000 only in the first stage: foundation, box and roof. Then the project grew, we also built a farm building, a bathhouse made of the same "round timber", refined the territory, the street next to the house. All this (together with materials, finishes, windows, doors and a geothermal boiler) cost us a total of $ 180,000.

roof shrinkage

Conclusion: What we got for this torment is very beautiful house... And some indescribable pleasure from the feeling of a thick, uneven log, its rough appearance, rich texture ... Friends who began to build across the site from mine, heard about the same text, my complaints and advice to build from blocks. And in the end ... the blockhouse was also cut down. Here, of course, everyone decides for himself. But I honestly warned you.

Interviewed by: Dmitry Malakhov

Buying round timber for the construction of a country bathhouse is the starting stage of a laborious series of actions. The result of the work should be a solid, beautiful log house. The complex of actions consists in the full preparation of timber for the laying of crowns and for their further service. Preparation for the construction of a log house can be ordered or done with your own hands. However, both customers and independent home craftsmen need to know how to competently handle a log with their own hands. After all, most of the operations are performed manually in accordance with the special rules of wooden architecture.

We express our gratitude to the company VseDoma.com, which carries out the construction of wooden houses and baths at a very high level. If you decide to order a building for yourself, go there. Thanks to them, this article was written.

The ax and the scraper are your best friends

Advertising assurances about the "cosmic" speed of assembling crowns, fully prepared by the seller for construction, are somewhat exaggerated. True construction from calibrated logs with formed structural elements no doubt it will go much more "fun" than from a freshly cut forest. You will have to tinker a lot, because each future wall element you need:

• cut to size according to a previously prepared project and the selected type of corner joint;
• debarking - to get rid of the bark, which is very attractive for the bug;
• chill - remove the layer of fresh bark remaining after debarking in order to eliminate the causes of premature decay of the bast. This operation is one of the optional, but strongly recommended procedures;
• cut according to the installation method and place of installation;
• select grooves for corner locking knots.

If necessary, you will still need to cut off numerous knots, splicate logs, hammer nests and perform a lot of other operations. This is if the potential owner of the bathhouse purchases timber of the 4th, the lowest grade. However, let's forget about the adherents of such austerity. It will require the least effort from an inexperienced carpenter, if the owner does not skimp on the second grade wood. In construction, the use of third-rate logs is allowed, but it is better to compare your own capabilities, costs and labor costs initially.

For each of the carpentry actions, there is a specialized hand tool, often replaced by current builders with chainsaws and electric planers. Their use is not prohibited, but it is necessary to partially use them in the most labor-intensive processes. Because round timber processed with tools with a gasoline engine or an electric drive is more susceptible to rotting than hand-hewn and chopped timber. Chainsaws and other super speed tools are shaggy wood fibers and leave aquifers open to moisture penetration.

For more information on how to choose an electric plane, see the article

Working with an ax, a standard plane, a scraper, a traditional chisel, a home craftsman will "clog" the wood capillaries. Atmospheric and bath moisture will then not negatively affect the log structure. By the way, it will stand much longer than a similar building made of rounded material. In the latter variant, the fibers are also unprotected from water penetration. Moreover, during calibration, the machine removes the outer layer that is resistant to negative. Therefore, zealous owners are advised to buy round wood and do the processing of logs for your favorite log bath with your own hands, using simple carpentry tools.

If you want to build a brick bath, we advise you to watch the video

Rules for choosing good timber

Since we are talking about the type of forest, let's touch on the topic of choosing a log. Optimal material pine is rightfully recognized for independent, because:

• this type of wood is quite soft and easy to handle;
• timber harvesting is carried out in latitudes close to the upcoming construction;
• the surface rarely requires additional processing;
• the minimum number of knots on the whip;
• barrel escape, i.e. the difference between the largest and the smallest diameter in a meter section of a log corresponds to the limits necessary in construction from 0.8 cm to 1.0 cm.

Pine attracts with its price, acceptable resin content and the advantages of easy processing. It does not crack as intensely as spruce. In terms of density, pine logs are ideal as a wall material. With the exception of the lowest flange, which takes on all the load from the structure under construction. To form the first row of logs, it is advisable to purchase an oak with a maximum density, or larch resistant to ground moisture. The use of pine for the construction of a casing is not excluded, but the logs must be taken with a diameter of 5-7 cm larger than the entire timber.

An important criterion for choosing a forest is the width of the longitudinal groove, which is formed along the entire log for ordinary laying and joining the underlying crown with its upper brother. The recommended value for this size is 2/3 of the average diameter of a standard log from the purchased batch. The average diameter is equal to the arithmetic mean between the butt and apex diameters.

The width of the longitudinal groove is regulated by folk rules based on many years of experience in wooden architecture:

• with repeated winter thermometer readings in the -40 ° C region, the width of the base of the lunar longitudinal groove, i.e. the distance between the projection of the extreme points of the notch on an imaginary line should be from 14 to 16 cm;
• for regions with winter temperature values \u200b\u200bof -30 ºС, this size is 12 cm;
• for regions with frosts of -20 ° C, the longitudinal groove should be made 10 cm wide.

This means that for the construction of a log house in the northern regions, the best wall material will be a log with an average diameter of 21-24 cm. Further, according to the degree of climate mitigation, 18 cm and 15 cm.

Root-cut timber does not need to be stored for more than 2 weeks. Dried wood will make processing difficult. Logs should be stacked with squared or plank pads between rows. Spacers are required for ventilation.

A log that has been overexposed during natural drying is more warped and cracked, if a longitudinal notch is timely made on the side opposite to the groove. With a notch, the wood will still crack, but the process will be less active, because stress in the log will be relieved. And after the shrinkage of the frame, the cracks will be almost invisible.

It is necessary to store timber on a flat area prepared for its storage. It is advisable to arrange a canopy that protects the untreated whip from direct hitting UV rays and from precipitation, and a kind of "pallet" from a beam laid at intervals.

Step-by-step technology for processing logs

After the "correct" aging of the timber in natural conditions, you can proceed to the preparation stages: for debarking, felling and chipping logs in order to create wall elements ready for laying.

Stage # 1 - making working devices

Carpentry work is not easy and sometimes dangerous. The logs have a lot of weight and an unstable rounded configuration, the home craftsman has a double-edged tool. Comfortable work without the risk of injury will be provided by simple devices - pads and staples. They are needed to fix the raw whip in the position required for the work.

The linings are made from chocks, hewn one edging from the side of installation on the ground, it is possible from scraps of large section timber or boards placed on the end. You can not choose in the workpiece, but it is better to choose a rectangular or triangular groove in cross section. The best fastening will be if the groove is triangular. The logs installed on the lining are necessarily fixed with iron brackets. When the staples are hammered, the fibers are not disturbed, so that such fasteners will not harm the material.

Stage # 2 - cutting the log to size

The size of the logs for the crowns should correspond to the project and the type of corner lock. The fundamental difference in corner joints must be taken into account:

• if the log house is cut into a bowl with corners protruding beyond its outline, the logs should be 60 cm longer than the design dimensions of the wall;
• if the felling is carried out according to the "in the paw" scheme, the length of the log is equal to the design value.

In length, the log dries out by an insignificant amount: 0.1% of the total length of the material. This value does not need to be taken into account when marking the cutting line.

It is more convenient to mark the cutting lines by strengthening the log on a lining. If the material was purchased with significant dimensional differences, it is better to take a segment with an approximate average diameter as a central reference point. From it in both directions, you need to set aside half the required length. Although it is often advised to shorten the whip from the tip side to minimize flow.

Shortening logs that are too long is not prohibited with a chainsaw, but an ax is a legitimate priority. It is necessary to cut along the marked line with alternation of perpendicularly directed blows with blows at an angle of 45º.

Stage # 3 - removing bark from the trunk

Logs cut to size must be debarked, i.e. to deprive the unaesthetic outer layer. Debarking can be done in three ways:

• perform roughing with an ax, which consists in removing the top layer with simultaneous chopping of knots. For adherents of rustic exterior and interior stylistics, this rough processing with the creation of a variegated surface is often enough;
• to carry out a more "detailed" removal of the bark with a scraper, which ultimately allows to obtain a smooth surface of a pleasant light color. The disadvantage of this method is insufficient processing of the trunk surface in the area of \u200b\u200bknots previously cut with an ax;
• remove the loose top layer with an ordinary plane. The quality of processing is higher than barking with a scraper, but the protective shell from the log will be cut off with a plane. Planed logs must be treated with an antiseptic compound.

It is recognized as a quite suitable tool for removing the bark bayonet shovel with a sharpened blade edge.

Stage # 4 - weaving logs for a cap

They did not forget that the first crown will be composed of the thickest logs. They have to be cut by one edging in order to lay them on a pre-waterproofed foundation with the exactly hewn side.

Please note that chipping and felling of logs for the subsequent construction of crowns must be done so that the "winter" side of the log with a denser arrangement of annual rings is turned outward. So the heat engineering qualities of the log house will be higher.

The sequence of work on the cutting of logs by one edging:

• At the ends of the log fixed in the lining, mark the points of its central axis.
• Along the plumb line or the level at both ends, we outline the vertical lines, according to which the vertical border of the cut will pass.
• We "draw" a horizontal line of descent. At the upper points of the drawn borders, we make splints with an ax or hammer in nails. Between the points we pull tightly a coated cord, nylon thread or fishing line, fixing the ends in serifs or tying them around a nail. If we had a coated cord, we pull it according to the principle of the bowstring and the “shoot” type: the line will be drawn spontaneously. Along the line, you can draw a border with your own hand with charcoal or a marker. Because shrinkage will be carried out strictly vertically, there is no need to draw the opposite horizontal border.
• We carry out a rough heaving, not reaching the outlined border of 7-10mm. To facilitate the work, we make transverse notches through the entire hump of the log. Then we remove the log segments between the notches with an ax. Instead of notches, it is wiser to make cuts with a chainsaw to the same depth and with the same step, and finish them with an ax.
• Then, with a medium-sized ax, remove the wood to the outlined line.
• We clean off the hewn surface of the log with a scherhebel.

In the logs of the crown, it is also necessary to make cuttings for joints in the paw or in the bowl according to the design solution. It will be about the methods of their production. If the bathhouse foundation is already poured and ready for the construction of a log house, prepared logs can already be laid on the waterproofed base. If not, we number the logs and send them to a stack.

Stage # 5 - cutting a longitudinal groove

Longitudinal grooves are cut out on all ordinary logs for tight joining of the wall material. In a simplified way, the process can be called cutting 2/3 of the hump of a log followed by the formation of a moon-shaped notch that repeats the shape of the underlying or overlying wall element. In general, the location of the longitudinal groove is directly related to the type of the locking bowl. More precisely, it is turned up or down. It is preferable that the corner joints together with the longitudinal grooves were, as if, covered with a log, i.e. upside down to prevent moisture from entering the connections.

The basic principle of building walls in wooden construction Butt-to-top. The alternation of the narrow and wide end of the log is necessary to align the crowns into the horizon. This indisputable rule must be taken into account when marking grooves.

The marking of a rounded groove is made with a carpenter's line - a kind of compass. The similarity of the line can be done independently by tightly screwing a wire with sharp edges to the handle of a hammer or to a stick. According to folk technology, a groove is drawn with considerable effort:

• we put the log in the place it should be in the log house, then accurately draw the outlines of the hump of the lower log at the end of the upper element using carpentry line or a homemade compass with two wire legs;
• by analogy with the marking of the chipping, we mark the longitudinal lines;
• we transfer the marked log to an area convenient for work and fasten it in the linings:
• we make notches or cuts along the entire length of the processed log;
• we carry out a rough and final teska, then we process the groove with a sherhebel;
• we coat the entire surface of the groove with coal and put it on the place for checking it in the frame. If unpainted areas on the lower log are revealed, remove the excess from the groove and try again.

According to the rules, longitudinal grooves are formed simultaneously with cutting into a paw or into one of the types of bowls, we will talk about the methods of their manufacture separately.

We familiarized with general principles preparation of timber for the construction of a log house. They will help self-reliant home master in his hard work, and to the customer of the builders' efforts, who wants to control the literacy of the execution.

Round larch forest belongs to hard wood species, although it belongs to conifers. Trees over 400 years old are used for sawing. In terms of strength, the material approaches oak, significantly surpasses it in moisture resistance. Due to the high content of resins and oils, larch is reliably protected from insects and fungal infections. Round timber larch is used for building houses... Wood has a high heat capacity, which allows you to keep cool in summer and keep warm in the house in winter. Baths and saunas are built from it, and fences for reservoirs are also produced.

Round pine wood - available material

Forest round pine has a softwood that matures at the age of one hundred years. Pine is divided into two varieties - dry chip and tar. The resin is most resistant to moisture, decay processes and insect attacks. It is used for the manufacture of the first three or four crowns of houses in a log house, the resin is suitable for use in places with high humidity. Pine round timber is used for making lathe and artistic carvings. It is also used in construction and furniture production. Ease of processing (resin is preliminarily demineralized) and low price are the main advantages of this wood.

Round wood aspen - high resistance to moisture

Round aspen wood is harvested from trees that are forty years old. The wood is lightweight, not prone to cracking. Due to its special resistance to moisture, wood is used for arranging cellars and manufacturing roofing materials... Well logs are made of it, aspen is also used for finishing baths. Aspen round timber is the main material for the production of matches, unlike other species, aspen practically does not give soot when burning.

Round cedar wood - longevity and healthfulness

Round cedar wood belongs to soft wood species. More valuable are logs from the butt part, in which there are usually no knots. It is used to produce lumber and molded products, furniture and household items. Cedar is one of best materialsused for the construction of houses. Round timber cedar is valued for the durability of wood, resistance to negative influences and healing properties... It contains a large amount of essential oils, rich in phytoncides and beneficial trace elements. Standing out in small amounts, they heal the air in the room, and also help to increase the body's defenses.

Pine log - sawlogs and rough products

The BiG House company offers to buy pine logs. The price for our pine log corresponds to the quality. In our catalog you will find sawlog and planed (cut) products. Pine wood is one of the most popular materials used in construction works... Pine logs are processed - rounded, and unprocessed. Processing consists in removing the top layer from the wood - bark. When mechanical method cleaning the tree is fixed on the machine, the diameter of the product at the exit is set. The material to be processed can rotate and pass through the milling spindle, because it remains in a static position, in this case it is processed with a movable cylinder spindle. The hewn log is manually processed, which completely removes the outer cork layer. Top layers containing a high amount of resins are preserved to the maximum. Hand-processed round timber is more resistant to weathering. Hewn products are less prone to cracking. The price of a hand-processed pine log is higher, but the costs with torus pay off - the service life of the cut round timber exceeds the service life of conventional material.

Paint the house

Houses made of hand-hewn logs

Everyone knows that the walls of a classic wooden house are erected from round logs. And the thickness of such a wall is usually 35 cm or more. And untreated wood for house construction is processed in a special way. As a result, hewn logs are obtained. Processing is done manually, the bark is removed, all unnecessary is planed. Then the wood is dried and impregnated.

It should be noted right away that manual testing is a rather laborious process and is not so cheap. Used for planing with a planer or ax. Conifers are usually selected for cutting by hand. Their age is at least 50 years. In this case, trees of the same age are selected. There must be an appropriate size. On the north side, the rings of the tree are denser. And with this side, the hewn logs are laid out.

The master picks up the logs one by one to build the future home. First, the thickened ends of the log are placed on the thinner ones, and then vice versa. When a log is hewn with an ax, the wood's porosity is greatly reduced. Essentially, the wood is compacted from all sides. I must say that most often used are logs with a diameter of 24 cm, as well as 32 cm.

Cutting by hand has many advantages, among them:

But this processing method has its drawbacks. It takes a long time to trim. Drying naturally can take one and a half to two years. And I must say that hewn logs appearance inferior to rounded ones.

When a house is assembled from a hewn timber, then there are gaps between the logs, in which moss or tow is laid. During the year, the frame will shrink. Then you need to once again caulk all the seams with combed tow. But I must say that it is pleasant to live in such a house. It will delight you with its unique aroma and warmth.

Hewn logs were used by our ancestors to build houses. Used in this labor intensive technology exclusively manual labor... And the technology has been alive for many centuries. I must say that not all logs are suitable for construction. The wood is selected with the minimum number of defects. They try to cut the forest in winter time of the year. The fact is that the winter forest has a lot of resins, it is drier, more durable, it withstands shrinkage better, it has fewer pests.

After the logs have been selected and cut down, all branches are removed from them with an ax. The tree is cleared of bark. But after that, the trunk has a brownish tint. If you need to get a light shade, then you need to remove a few millimeters with a scraper or ax. The work requires real skill.

After the logs are prepared, crowns are formed from them. For each log, grooves and locks are cut to ensure a secure connection with other logs. Between the crowns, dowels made of wood are poured. They fix the wall element, preventing the elements from moving. I must say that a log house, if built by a true master of his craft, looks great. The atmosphere in such a house is unique. The house turns out to be environmentally friendly, the material is inexpensive. And if you decide to opt for such a house, you make the right choice.

The technology of building houses from hand-hewn logs implies a high-quality connection building materials in the corners. Professional builders of wooden houses distinguish between two main technologies for making corner joints: “in a cup” and “in a paw”. The first technology provides for a rather high consumption of wood and, therefore, takes more time than laying the logs “in the paw”. If you want to save time and materials for arranging corner joints wooden house, use the technology "in the paw". But this installation involves a large number of sealed joints.

Laying corner joints of a wooden house “in a cup” involves laying building materials on two walls located on opposite sides. Next, another log is laid perpendicularly on the logs, with the help of which the marking for the connection is carried out.

Laying corner joints of a wooden house "in a paw" involves rather complex manipulations that are difficult to perform without the appropriate skill tools. The back of the log should be trimmed into a square shape. Vertical sections should be divided into 8 equal particles. Thus, external and inner corners wooden house will differ from each other, forming a special "foot".

After the walls of the wooden house have been erected, you can proceed to caulking them. It should be carried out from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving upward.