Hunting knife made of power saw blade. Poorly to make a knife from a saw blade with hand tools? Creating a mock knife

Hello to all homemade lovers!

Recently I had a need to pick up or make some small thin knife for a chicken coop. This was due to the fact that in the chicken coop periodically it is necessary to cut the strong threads with which the bags with wheat or mixed feed, which we buy for feeding the chickens, are sewn.

In general, in my chicken coop I have old scissors hanging on the wall for these purposes, but they are not very convenient. Therefore, a small sharp knife with a thin tip and double-edged sharpening (like a dagger) would be much more convenient. In addition, it could sometimes be used for other needs, when it becomes necessary to cut some kind of rope or twine.

As a result, I was going to make such a knife from the most suitable material for this case - a piece of broken cloth from a hacksaw for metal.

However, then I remembered that at one time, my brother, long ago in the late 90s, was just fond of making such knives and made quite a few of them of different types. Nevertheless, for many years they lay idle somewhere.

After a good search, I found a box of these knives. And it really turned out that what kind of knives my brother did not make! : e113: Below I give a photo of some of them.

As you can see, on almost all knives of this type, the handles are made of wire winding and insulating tape, which may not be very beautiful, but quite practical. Many knives also have a sheath, the base of which is made of strips of hard rubber, and on top, again, a winding of electrical tape and wire.

Moreover, he also has special-purpose knives, perhaps for removing entrails from fish or for peeling some berries, fruits or vegetables.

And there are also some large knives.

Moreover, as far as I remember, with one of these knives which has a scabbard and the handle is made of polyethylene foam and wrapped with electrical tape, even in the late 90s, early 2000s, I went into the forest for mushrooms, hanging it on a belt, while didn't buy myself a professional camping knife.

In addition to these knives, I found in my brother's collection one knife with a broken tip.

It was this knife that I decided to fix and use in the chicken coop.

In order to fix this knife and bring it to mind, I needed the knife itself, a sharpening machine and an abrasive bar for finishing.

First, I sharpened the knife on a grinder and formed a new dagger-type blade.

Then he brought it up on an abrasive bar.

On both sides of the blade, I sharpened the blades so sharp that they cut the paper. In principle, this sharpness is enough for me.

I also tucked up the knife handle and scabbard a little with yellow duct tape for more contrast.

And I got such a knife. The blade is certainly not perfectly straight, but this is quite enough for me, and special beauty for such a knife is not needed.

And here he is in a scabbard, although I, in general, do not need a scabbard either.

And finally, taking this opportunity, I want to give this advice:
Many, sharpening knives (for household or camping needs), try to sharpen them as sharply as possible. However, you must always remember that the sharper the blade of the knife is, the faster it will become dull. After all, a knife is not a razor that you only use for shaving; you have to cut materials of different hardness with a knife and use it in a variety of situations.

Therefore, it makes no sense to sharpen, say, a camping knife to a razor sharpness (unless of course you are going to shave with it). It will be enough to sharpen it to such an extent that it cuts the paper well with some pressure, or simply lifts a nail - a simple test most often used to check the sharpness of a knife blade.

Well, that's all for me! For now and always with a sharp instrument!

The first cutting tools made by man were made of stone. Ancestors modern knives were very fragile and required a lot of time and labor to manufacture. The metal blade is devoid of these major disadvantages. Steel is relatively easy to process and has good physical properties.

A self-made knife is the pride of the owner. When self-production those characteristics are selected that are necessary. First of all, it is the shape of the blade and handle. The best quality blades, for example damask or Damascus steel, are made by forging. At the same time, the material of the blade has the required hardness and carbon content.

But forging requires certain tools and skills. What to do if you want to make your own unique blade, but only a minimal set of tools is at hand? In this case, you should pay attention to the circular saw as a blank for the blade. The metal from which the saw blade is made lends itself well to quenching and has the necessary elasticity, so the saw will be the optimal workpiece for making a knife with your own hands. A homemade circular saw blade keeps sharpening well, does not break and can easily compete with industrial knives.

Creating a mock knife

The first step is to create a model of the future knife from a saw. At this stage of work, you can decide on the shape of the blade of the future blade and the shape of the handle. The layout is best made from thick cardboard or thin plywood. You can also use thick plastic. A rigid template will allow you to understand how a knife from a circular saw will lie in your hand and how convenient it will be to use it.

When making a layout, it is important to adhere to the following rules:

• Right angles must be avoided. The right angle is the place of stress concentration. The blade of the knife most often breaks or cracks in this place.
• The shape of the blade must be chosen based on the purpose of the future knife. The most versatile forms are with straight or lowering butt. Such a blade can cut and stab equally well.
• The dimensions of the layout must match the size of the saw blade.

When making a model, it should also be remembered that a knife can be classified as a cold weapon. It all depends on the shape and size. The manufacture and storage of cold steel is a criminal offense. Therefore, in order not to fall under the article of the criminal code, it is necessary to create a layout corresponding to the following rules:

• The length of the blade or cutting part should not exceed 9 centimeters. Exceeding this length even by 1 mm will allow the homemade blade to be classified as a melee weapon.
• A knife with a blade thickness of more than 2.6 mm is also a melee weapon. This parameter can be neglected, since the saw blade thickness is usually 2 mm.
• Hardness should not exceed 42 units. This parameter refers to hardening, so we also skip it at the stage of making a piece.
• The handle should have a limiter protruding no more than half a centimeter beyond its limits. If there is no stop, the sub-finger groove should be less than 4 mm deep.

After the layout, satisfying the letter of the law and personal preferences, is drawn, you can proceed to transfer the layout to the saw blade. The mold is applied to the saw blade and traced with a marker. It is best to use a fine marker. A thin line will allow you to more accurately cut the workpiece and avoid unnecessary processing of the workpiece with a file.

Cutting and primary processing of the workpiece

Saw the workpiece fastest with a grinder with a thin cutting disc for metal. If it is not possible to use a grinder, then you can use a manual hacksaw for metal. It is important to place the file correctly in the hacksaw. The saw teeth should be facing forward and the hacksaw should cut when moving away from you.

First, using straight cuts, the approximate shape of the knife is cut. Then the folds are cut out. The easiest way is to cut them out with several oblique cuts, converging at one point. It is important to leave an allowance of 2-3 millimeters before the drawn outline. This is due to the fact that when using a grinder, the metal at the cutting site overheats. Grinding off 2–3 mm with a file and sandpaper can remove the overheated metal edge.

Shaping the workpiece

The rough workpiece is brought to its final shape with a file or emery. In order to avoid overheating of the future knife from the saw, when processing it with emery, it is necessary to periodically lower it into a container with water. This will allow the workpiece to cool down. When processing the workpiece with a file, additional cooling is not required. It would be most optimal to roughly process the workpiece on emery, and then fine-tune it with a file.

During finishing, special attention should be paid to the smoothness of the folds. It is important to ensure that the fold is even, without depressions or bulges. Miniature depressions can be easily checked with a file. To do this, use a marker to paint over the checked end of the workpiece. Next, a file is carried out with light pressure along the workpiece along the entire bend. There are depressions in those places where the marker trace remains.

Processing continues until there is no depression left.

Next, the workpiece is cleaned of burrs and sanded with sandpaper. You can start with 60 grit and just finish at 320. The workpiece will still be heat treated, so the final grinding of the blade will be later.

Shank drilling

The handle on the shank can be fixed with rivets or glue. The most reliable way to attach the handle is to use rivets. To install them, it is necessary to make holes in the shank. The holes are marked on the shank so that they are approximately in the middle of the future handle. To prevent the drill from slipping off at the initial stage of drilling, the holes are punched out.

Since the circular saw is made of alloy tool steel, it will not be easy to drill through. Conventional metal drills won't last long here.

Drilling should be done with cobalt drills or a ceramic drill with a victorious tip.

During the drilling process, it is important to add oil to the drilling area and to keep the drill from overheating.

Drilling through hardened steel is a difficult task. Therefore, it is possible to make holes in the shank electrochemically. To do this, a wire is attached to the workpiece, then the shank is completely covered bituminous mastic or plasticine. In the places of future holes, the protective layer is scratched to bare metal. Further, a saturated solution of sodium chloride is prepared, into which the blade shank with a wire and an unnecessary metal plate, also with a wire, are lowered. Both wires connect to the battery or car charger... A "plus" is fed to the future knife from a circular saw, a "minus" is applied to the plate. The etching process is accompanied by gas evolution. The holes will be ready in 30-50 minutes.

Forming the cutting edge

Before proceeding with the formation of the cutting edge, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work... It consists in marking the edge of the workpiece. The markings are placed exactly in the center and serve as a guide for making a symmetrical descent.

To do this, the marker is painted over the edge that will be cutting and, using a drill equal in thickness to the workpiece, the marking is scratched. The drill has a tapered edge. Therefore, if you position the drill and the workpiece on the same plane, the tip of the drill will be exactly in the middle.

Then, using a file with a large cut, you can start shaping the cutting edge. In the absence of the proper skill to create a smooth edge, you can use a simple device... It consists of a base, a corner and a guide with a platform for sanding paper. Sandpaper with a grain size of 180 is glued to the platform with the guide. Several holes must be drilled vertically one above the other in the corner. The knife is fixed flat on the base and the guide is inserted into the hole at a height so that the angle between the plane of the base and the platform with sandpaper is the same that was chosen to form the slopes. An angle from 22 to 30 degrees is universal.

Having made an even descent to the middle of the thickness of the workpiece, the knife is turned over, then the same descent is made on the reverse side. Using such a simple device, you can easily form an even blade.

Thus, a finished blade with a given sharpening angle is obtained. But at this stage, the blade is only conditionally ready. It does not have the necessary hardening in order to hold the sharpening confidently. It also did not go through a tempering procedure to reduce fragility. In fact, this is a semi-finished saw blade, which can already be used, but it is better to take a few more steps.

Hardening

Heat treatment will give the knife the required hardness, it will not become blunt during operation.

For hardening, the knife from the saw must be heated to a temperature of 750-920 degrees. If this temperature is not reached, then the steel will not be hardened, and if it is heated too much, then the blade will be unnecessarily brittle.

It is not possible to determine the exact temperature at home. However, there is a way out. A simple magnet will do for temperature control. As soon as the blank for the blade stops magnetising, it is heated to the required temperature.

After the temperature of the workpiece has reached the required limits, it must be kept in this state for about 1-1.5 minutes for each 1 mm of thickness. When homemade knife from a saw, the holding time for hardening is 3-5 minutes. It'll be enough. Then the workpiece is dipped into vegetable or machine oil preheated to 50 degrees. This procedure should be followed carefully. Oil vapors can ignite from a hot workpiece, so a fire extinguisher should be available.

A little about the hardening furnace. If it is not possible to use industrial equipment, then the forge can be made by hand. To do this, it is necessary to make a fire of such a size so that it is possible to evenly warm up the workpiece. Further, as the wood burns out and coals appear, a homemade knife is placed on them. A household hairdryer or a mattress pump can be used as bellows.

Vacation

After hardening, the blade must be released. This procedure is performed in order to reduce fragility, as well as impart high elasticity to the saw blade. For tempering, the blade is cleaned with sandpaper from the scale formed during the hardening process and placed in a regular oven heated to 190 degrees. There, the blade is kept for an hour, then the oven heating is turned off.

The knife should cool smoothly to room temperature.

After this procedure, the workpiece has the required hardness and elasticity.

Sawing out the handle blank and preparing for gluing

To complete work with a knife, you need to make a handle. There may be various variations materials used as a handle. The most popular material is wood. The wooden handle is soaked linseed oil to prevent the harmful effects of moisture on it.

A flat plank of wood of your favorite species is chosen. The thickness of the plank should be at least half a centimeter for convenience. A thick board can be cut lengthwise. Using the blank of the knife as a template, markings are applied to the board, including holes for rivets. For a good fit of the future handle to the shank, it is necessary to deduce the contact plane with sandpaper.

Forming the upper part of the handle

The upper part of the handle is prepared in advance for the reason that after gluing the handle to the shank, the processing of the upper part will be difficult. Also, during processing, the blade can be scratched, which is highly undesirable. Holes for rivets are drilled according to the markings made during the preparation process. A bar of a suitable diameter is inserted into them. It allows you to rigidly connect both parts of the workpiece and will not allow them to move during processing.

Formation takes place with files and sandpaper. At this stage, it is important to remember about the permissible dimensions of the limiter, sub-finger groove.

Final processing is carried out with 800 grit sandpaper. Before gluing, all parts must be thoroughly degreased. This can be done with acetone or solvent. Once the degreaser has dried, glue or epoxy can be applied.

Making rivets

The glue attachment of the handle to the shank is not reliable. In order to avoid breakage of the handle, the wooden plates must be fastened with rivets. The rivets are made of metal that does not corrode. These can be non-ferrous alloys or stainless steel. You can also use copper or brass pipe as rivets.

A blank of the future rivets is sawn off from a bar of a suitable length. It should be 2-3 millimeters longer than the thickness of the handle. Clamping the rivet in a vice, flare one end with a hammer. It should look like a fungus on one end of the bar. Further, the rivet, pre-oiled with epoxy glue, is inserted into the holes in the handle and is also flared on the other side of the handle. To expand a rivet made from a tube, it is best to use a ball from a bearing.

Shaping the handle

After the glue has dried, they begin to process the handle. First, using a file, the protruding parts of the rivet are grinded. Then, with a rough rasp, the wood blank is shaped. First, the profile of the knife handle is formed. Grind the wood until the shank metal appears. Then they grind down the sharp corners and give the handle a shape that fits well in the hand.

Grinding and varnishing the knife handle

Finish sanding is done with sandpaper. By gradually increasing the grain, it is necessary to remove all coarse risks from the paper with a larger grain. It is enough to complete the process of grinding the knife handle with 600-grit paper. The last stage in the manufacture of the handle will be its impregnation.

There are several ways to impregnate the handle for its better preservation... This is oil impregnation, wax impregnation or varnish coating.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. So, for example, wax must first be melted by heating it, and heating has a detrimental effect on the strength of the glue with which the handle is glued. The oils need to be renewed periodically. And the varnish has only the function of surface protection.

The final feature when making a knife from a circular saw will be its final sharpening. The best way to do this is to use a sanding block made from a wooden plank. Sandpaper of 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit is glued to even boards, one grit on each side. Also, a piece of leather is glued to the board for dressing the sharpening. With a little practice, as well as having gained the skill, you can sharpen the knife so that it will cut the paper by weight and shave the hair.

So, with a minimum of tools and skill, but with the necessary knowledge, you can make an excellent knife from a circular saw. The characteristics of a homemade circular saw blade are often higher than store counterparts in the budget segment. Is there still space on the saw blade after making one knife? Another knife needs to be made!

From the side it seems that it is easy to make a knife, that it is just a sharpened steel strip yes wooden handle... But when it comes to practice, the picture changes dramatically. The main thing in this process is knowledge and experience. When you know, everything is simple, when there is no experience, everything is complicated.

Recently I posted on the Internet a photograph with seven blades made in one day in the Stakhanov impulse.

Alexander Kudryashov in his comments asked me to tell you how I make even and symmetrical descents.

In response, I joked: "It's simple: you take a" magic marker ", draw even descents, say wonderful words, and smooth descents are ready."

But is this really a joke? A joke, of course, but the truth is somewhere nearby.

Later I offered to come and see in practice how the correct descents and the whole knife are made. And this proposal was accepted.

According to my idea, Alexander had to take part in the manufacturing himself a little: choose a blank for the blade, material for the handle, the preferred length of the blade and handle. Alexander had to leave our experiment with a ready-made, solid, and most importantly, a working knife.

Alexander arrived smartly, in light sand-colored pants and a coyote-colored fleece jacket, which was completely unsuitable for the work ahead. I had to give him work pants and a camouflage shirt in case he got dirty. Everything fit perfectly - we are of the same size.

In the workshop, work went according to a pre-planned plan. A good old power saw from a high speed saw was chosen as the material for the blade. Why?

It is a widely known and proven industrial hardened steel. Yes, it is difficult to process, but due to its redness (the ability to withstand heating for a long time without decreasing hardness), it does not require cooling.

The thickness of the mechsaw is 2 mm, which is sufficient for most working knife tasks. Mechsaw knives are lightweight, keep well sharpened and, importantly, are completely legal: the small thickness of the blade sweeps aside any suspicion of involvement in cold steel.

In general, there are many grades of high-speed steels, but the manufacturer does not always indicate a specific grade, often limiting itself to the HSS (high speed steel) stamp. New saws are rare and more expensive.

For a knife-maker, the novelty of a mech-saw does not matter, therefore, for making a knife, you can use both a new saw, and a well-worn and even broken one. The result will be little like raw material... Among the shortcomings, one can note the tendency of steel to chipping under lateral loading and its susceptibility to corrosion.

Alexander chose a suitable mech saw blade from a quick cut (HSS made in USSR). I cut off the excess and made an outline of the future knife on emery, then processed the blank with a brush - a rotating steel brush, giving it a noble black shine, and painted the blade part on both sides with a blue wide marker intended for warehouse work.

Using the paint of the marker, he marked the lines of future descents with a vernier caliper, paying special attention to the synchronization of their exit to the butt. He outlined the resulting lines with a "magic marker" with a silvery paint, which is nothing but aluminum powder in a polymer binder.

Why exactly them? Very simple. This paint withstands high temperatures, adheres well to metal and holds firmly. During metal processing, the paints of ordinary colored markers fade, wear off, crumble. And the silver stick holds. That's all the magic.

I installed the blade on a special device for launching descents (a cheaper version of a device from Chapay, made myself from a steel corner). Marked with a marker the place where the descents will begin, and fixed it with a hand vice.

I performed rough metal removal with a yellow cubitron II from 3M with P24 grain on a machine with an abrasive belt (on a grinder). For uniformity, I began to remove the metal from the mark with a marker at the future handle and moved to the tip with even slight pressure.

In this case, it is very important to apply the future blade to the tape evenly, in parallel, without distortions. I let Alexander stand for a while at the machine at the initial stage, using special devices. The withdrawal of descents is a process that requires experience.

A little before reaching the silvery lines of the "magic marker", I changed the belt to P60 abrasive and began to align the line of descents. I made several movements from the point to the handle, creating a right angle at the beginning of the descents. Then work began on the risk of descents.

It turned out to be enough work on abrasives P80 and P120. It is unjustified to use abrasives P180 and finer for very hard high-speed steels. This is not a cubitron II, and abrasives work poorly and for a short time on such tight steels. At the same time, it is important that the finishing of the blade is done on the same tape, otherwise the sides will look different.

A quick cut knife does not require constant cooling during processing, and this is one of the pleasant moments in its manufacture. Of course, the knife should not be overheated, because the elevated temperature of the steel leads to the rapid clogging of the abrasive with sticky metal particles - to grease.

Excessive pressing of the metal to the abrasive is undesirable for the same reason. The tape clogged with metal, which no longer "gnaws" but "licks", can be freshened up. To do this, you need to remove the clogged with metal, licked tops of the abrasive and release the grains that lie deeper.

It's easy to do. You need to take the fast-cutting blade of the mechanical saw and easily, like a file, hold it obliquely, towards the moving belt at the bend (on the contact roller). This action will not give the abrasive its original aggressiveness, but it will refresh it and allow it to work more.

After the first side was brought to a final state, I turned the blade on the adaptation to the other side, fixed it and took up the second side. It is always more difficult to do it, because you need it to be the same as the first one.

In addition, the workpiece is less visible, it heats up more, and the contact with the massive device that acts as a heat exchanger is no longer so tight ... However, the blade was ready.

On the felt wheel with polishing paste, I fixed the tarnish marks on the metal. Once again I want to remind you that this was a high-speed steel, the hardness of which does not suffer from heating.

I marked the two holes on the shank with a felt-tip pen and drilled them with a 6mm tiling pen drill. It must be said that at the first of these holes the drill has exhausted its resource (this was about its 50th hole).

Without the slightest frustration, I took out another cheap feather drill from the blister, drilled the unfinished first hole and drilled the second in 40 seconds. Then I chamfered the holes with a larger diameter carbide-tipped drill.

I cut the workpiece on a band saw to fit the given dimensions, attached a shank to it and drilled the first hole in the wooden workpiece with an ordinary drill. I inserted a six-millimeter pin into the hole, put a shank hole on it and drilled a second one. I marked with a marker where the edge of the shank would be in the handle, and started marking for the future slot for the shank. I cut under the shank on a band saw.

I know that a particular blade makes a 1.5 mm cut. I needed a cut for a shank with a thickness of 2 mm, so I inserted a sheet of cardboard folded in half with a total thickness of 0.5 mm to the left of the workpiece and finished the slot to the required width.

After that, I started giving the blank the shape of the handle. According to the concept, it was a straight handle of a utility knife, representing an octahedron in section. This was not my first knife with an octagonal handle, which looks stern, but grasping, very comfortable and does not turn in the hand.

I did all the work on a grinder using wood strips. I set the necessary edges and started to remove risks with a decrease in the abrasive grain. In the end, I already ironed everything by hand with an abrasive scotch tape, similar to a hard flat washcloth.

And now it's time for editing. Having measured the thickness of the handle at the mounting points, I added 2 millimeters each and cut off pieces of a tube of a given length with a small pipe cutter. I inserted the shank of the blade into the slot of the handle. He walked with an interference, so he even had to use a manual rack press (up to 600 kg).

With a press, he neatly pressed the tubes into the handle through the shank through and through. Then he took up flaring directly.

He took out a set of shiny balls from bearings of different diameters, put one small ball on the lower platform of the press, and the second on the upper cut of one of the tubes and stretched the edges of the tube. I did the same with the second tube.

I performed this operation with a gradual increase in the diameter of the balls. Now it remained to do the finishing operations for flaring with a jewelry hammer with a polished striker.

The jar with natural beeswax has already been warmed up in the water bath. The knife handle went into wax for impregnation and subsequent cooling. Beeswax is a natural food grade polymer. Wood impregnated with it does not accept moisture and does not slip in the hand.

In my kitchen, all knives are waxed, and nothing is done with them. You can keep the knife in wax in a water bath for as long as you like - at least an hour, at least two, or maybe five minutes.

It is always good to refresh the tree of a knife handle or a rifle butt from time to time with ballistol or oil - linseed, vegetable. An alternative to hot wax will be natural oils, latex-based compounds, silicone oil, special oils for wood (once sold in Ikea), varnishes.

Each option has its own pros and cons. So, the lack of wax is that it is undesirable for knives, during the assembly of which glue was used (it usually does not tolerate high temperatures).

Natural oils polymerize for a long time (forever). Ballistol gives a pleasant, even surface when used regularly.

Silicone oils do not polymerize, but they are well incorporated into wood and are moisture resistant. Varnishes provide only surface protection. After the wax cooled down, I removed the excess from the handle, polished it on a felt wheel, and then manually with a paper towel.

The last thing left is sharpening. Leaving the blade simply reduced to zero is impossible - it will crumble, and this is verified. You need to make a small lead.

I made it on Russian diamond bars (in the direction of decreasing grain size), having previously moistened and rubbed them with a piece of soap. Soapy water sticks better to stones and lubricates better.

I finished the finishing without pressing the edge forward with soapy water on Green brazilian slate. All! The knife shaves. Taking a test birch log that was well dried in the workshop (it was lying for 5-6 years), I checked it with dashing planing the sharpness and durability of the cutting edge, the convenience and controllability of the knife.

Bottom line: the knife is inclined to bury itself viciously into the tree, cuts briskly, is comfortable in the hand, the cut of the tree shines like polished, and the edge is intact and not shiny. In general, the knife can be safely put into work ...

It's nice to see a childish sparkle in the eyes of a healthy man looking at a new useful toy that was born with him!

If you can find a source for used saw blades, you can make great knives out of them. This steel must be quenched, at least many claim that high-carbon steels are used in the manufacture of saw blades.

The knife is made quite simply according to the classical scheme. Maybe you will learn something new for yourself from this instruction. The author does not use a grinder, a grinder and other sophisticated tools in the manufacture, everything is done by hand, not counting the hardening devices.

Materials and tools for making a knife:
- saw blade;
- a marker with a fine tip;
- cardboard, scissors, drawing tools for making a template;
- hacksaw for metal;
- files of different grain size;
- vice;
- drill with drills;
- wood and brass pins for the handle;
- clamps;
- water stone for sharpening;
- sandpaper of different grain size and more.

The process of making a knife from a saw blade:

Step one. Transferring the template to metal
The first step is to make a paper template. Choose the type of template to your taste. In the first case, the template can be created on thin paper and cut out. And then this template is simply glued to the workpiece and then cut out.

In the second case, the template is made of thick paper, such as cardboard, and then traced on a sheet of paper with a marker. It was this option that our author chose. The marker should be used with the thinnest possible nib, as processing problems will arise in the future.

Step two. Cut out the workpiece
Work is carried out with an ordinary hacksaw for metal. You can use a grinder or a tape cutting machine, the author just makes a knife amateurishly, so to speak "for a bet." First, you can cut a very rough profile with a hand hacksaw; it cuts out just straight lines. For further work, you will need a vise or clamps.

Further, when the main profile is ready, you will need to cut out the rounded places. For these purposes, the author makes several cross-sections to the profile line, and then cuts these places in sections. This allows you to cut the desired shapes with a regular hacksaw.

Step three. We grind off excess
It is customary to carry out further work at least with a sharpener or grinder, and ideally on a tape grinding machine... The author does everything with good files. With the help of it we grind off all the bumps, irregularities that remained after rough work with a hand hacksaw.
With the help of a file, you can still make some measurements of the plane, if there are any on the blade.

The files here need to be used different, the more you have, the better. You will need not only flat, but round, semicircular and others. Here you need to focus on a felt-tip pen, as a result, this line must be ground off and disappear. Well, or you can grind the metal down to it, then whoever chooses how.

Step four. Drill holes and outline the blade profile
At first, the author wanted to make long wide bevels, but the metal of the saw blade was too thin, and they had to be reduced. So or otherwise, to create even bevels, you need to mark them on the workpiece with the same marker.

You will also need a drill with the same diameter as the thickness of the workpiece. With it and the drill on a flat table, draw a line along the entire length of the blade. This will allow it to be clearly divided into two halves. Then it will be very convenient to grind the bevels.

At the same stage, the author outlined and drilled holes in the metal for the pins that will hold the handle. He, of course, did not use a manual mechanical drill, but a cordless one (on a battery). Well, I think everyone has an electric drill.

Step five. We form a profile and grind the blade
The most crucial and difficult stage in the manufacture of a knife comes, because all cutting data will depend on it. To form the bevels, you will need a securely fixed block and a couple of self-tapping screws. Attach the workpiece to the bar and screw it with two self-tapping screws. Now, armed with a file, you can slowly form bevels. Take your time and make sure the bevels are even.

When the bevels are made, the blade can be sanded. This will remove any scratches from the file. You will need 220 grit sandpaper here. The sandpaper will need to be attached to the bar for convenience.
That's all, the workpiece is ready for the next step - hardening.

Step six. Metal hardening and tempering
To make the knife as strong as possible and keep sharpening for a long time, it can be hardened. Although in some cases, when making knives from saw blades, they are not hardened at all. You will need a good fire for hardening, or you can use a small homemade stove, as in this case. To get the right temperature for warming up, you need a regular household hair dryer and a piece of a long tube (suitable for a vacuum cleaner). Well, then, how, what and where, I think you will guess for yourself. By the way, instead of a hair dryer, a vacuum cleaner is also suitable.

We need to heat the metal until the moment when it is no longer attracted by the magnet. If you are inexperienced, hold a magnet near you and check. The color of the metal also indicates the degree of heating. The section should be bright.

Once the knife has warmed up evenly, it's time to cool it down. The author used peanut butter for cooling. However, any other vegetable should do. A lot of smoke and splashes will be emitted when cooling, so do this from a safe distance and generally adhere to all safety rules.

An integral part of hardening is metal tempering. If you ignore this, the blade will be strong, but it can shatter into pieces if it falls on a hard surface, since the metal will be too brittle. To make the knife resistant to mechanical stress, you need to release it a little. This is where an ordinary household oven comes to the rescue. It needs to be heated to a temperature of about 200 degrees Celsius and then put a blade in it for an hour. After this time, the oven must be turned off and allowed to cool with the door closed. This is how the metal is tempered. Further work is carried out when the metal has cooled down.

Step seven. And we grind again
As you guessed, after quenching, there will be a lot of burnt oil and other contaminants on the metal. They will need to be cleaned off and the metal brought to a shine. Here you will need 220 and 400 grit sandpaper. WD-40 also speeds up the cleaning process significantly.

Step eight. Handle making
The author makes a pen from walnut, there is some nuance in manufacturing. Since the workpiece was too thick, the author then cuts it along with a hacksaw. As a result, two halves are formed. Here you have to suffer a little to get an even cut.
We use the knife itself as a handle profile, just circle it with a felt-tip pen or a sharp object, attaching it to the tree.

After cutting the workpiece and cutting it lengthwise, the author then forms a rough profile of the handle. Even at this step, it is important to ensure that the planes of the handle that adjoin the knife are even, this will ensure good adhesion, and in general the handle will be of high quality. So we take the blanks and drive them over a piece of sandpaper or a sharpening disc.

At the same step, we drill two through holes for installing the pins. The pins should go into the handle with some force, but be careful, if the hole is too small, the handle can easily split when driving the pins. Pins can be made of copper, brass or others to your liking.

Step nine. Glue the handle
Before gluing, do not forget to thoroughly sand the metal with sandpaper so that the glue will securely connect the handle. Well, then take the epoxy, lubricate the two halves, install the pins, and the handle is clamped with clamps until the glue is completely dry. Usually epoxy cures completely after 24 hours, but there is also a glue that dries faster.

In order not to cover the blade with glue, you can glue it.

Having made a knife from a saw with your own hands, you can get at your disposal a cutting device, which has much better performance than factory counterparts. Making a knife with your own hands, they give it exactly the shape that suits the master best. Factory knives are beautiful but not always reliable. There is no guarantee that they will not fail at the most crucial moment.

A homemade knife made from a disc, a hacksaw for wood or a saw for metal will last for many years, regardless of the conditions of storage and use. Consider how to make a knife from factory-made metal parts, what is needed for this and what you should pay special attention to.

The raw material for making a homemade knife can be any new or old hardened steel cutting part. As a workpiece, it is better to use cutting discs for metal, hand and pendulum saws... An old chainsaw is a good option. From her chain you can forge and carve a blade, according to its quality and appearance not inferior to the famous Damascus steel.

In order to make a knife with your own hands, you will need the following equipment and materials:

• bulgarian;
• grinder;
• electric drill;
• ruler;
• a hammer;
• sandpaper;
• sharpening bars;
• files;
• core;
• epoxy adhesive;
• copper wire;
• marker;
• bucket with water.

Separately, you need to consider the issue with the handle. The finished product should fit comfortably in your hand.

For making a handle, it is better to use:

• non-ferrous metal (copper, bronze, brass, silver);
• wood (oak, alder, birch);
• organic glass (plexiglass, polycarbonate).

The raw material for the handle must be intact, without traces of cracks, rot and other defects.

Rules for working with metal

In order for the blade to be strong and resilient, in the process of its manufacture it is necessary to follow the rules of working with metal. They are as follows:

1. The workpieces should not have visible and hidden damage. Before making a knife, the workpieces must be inspected and tapped. An integral part sounds ringing, and a defective part sounds hollow.
2. When designing the shape of the blade, angles must be avoided. In such places, the steel can break. All transitions should be smooth, without kinks. The cuts of the butt, handle and guard must be cut off at right angles.
3. Do not overheat the steel when sawing and sharpening. This leads to a decrease in its strength. An overheated blade becomes brittle or soft. During processing, the workpiece must be constantly cooled by completely immersing it in a bucket of cold water.
4. When making a knife from a saw blade, you need to remember that this product has already passed the hardening cycle. Factory saws are designed to handle the hardest alloys. If you do not overheat the fabric during the grinding and finishing process, then you will not have to harden it.

The blade shank must not be made too thin. It is on this part of the product that the greatest load will fall.

Making a knife from a canvas

If the blade is large and does not have strong wear, then several blades for different purposes can be made from it. The effort and time spent are worth it.

Knife out circular saw do it yourself in the following sequence:

1. A pattern is applied to the canvas, the contours of the blade are outlined. Scratches or dotted lines are applied over the marker with a core. So the pattern will not be erased when cutting out the workpiece and adjusting it to the desired shape.
2. Workpieces are cut from the circular saw blade. To do this, it is better to use a grinder with a metal disc. Leave a margin of 2 mm from the contour. This is necessary in order to remove the material burnt by the grinder. If you don't have a grinder at hand, then you can grind the workpiece with a vice, a hammer and chisel, or a hacksaw for metal.
3. Everything unnecessary is grinded on the grinder. This process will take a lot of time so as not to overheat the steel. To prevent this, the workpiece must be regularly lowered into water until it cools completely.
4. The blade is outlined. Here you need to be careful to maintain the contour of the knife, not to burn it and maintain an angle of 20º.
5. All straight sections are aligned. It is convenient to do this by placing the workpiece on the side of the grinding wheel. The transitions are rounded.
6. The part is cleared of burrs. The blade is being ground and polished. For this, several replaceable wheels are used on a grinding machine.

Separately, you should dwell on how the pen is made. If wood is used, then a monolithic fragment is taken in which a longitudinal cut and through holes are made. After that, the blank is pushed onto the blade, holes for fasteners are outlined in it. The handle is fixed to the blade using rivets or bolts with nuts. In the case of a bolted connection, the heads of the hardware are recessed in the wood and filled with epoxy glue.

When the handle is assembled from plastic, 2 overlays are used, which must be symmetrical. To give the knife originality, the plastic pads are painted on the inside. In the linings, you can make cavities filled with jewelry, products from non-ferrous and precious metals, small compasses and photographs.

After fixing on the blade, the handles are sharpened until they acquire the desired shape and smoothness.

Chainsaw chain knife

Saw chains are made of a quality alloy that can withstand long-term friction and high temperature... The process of making a blade is long and laborious, but the result is a beautiful, unique and very durable knife. For work, you will need a heavy anvil, barbecue and charcoal. To make it easier to handle the hot workpiece, you need to purchase blacksmith tongs.

Making a blade from a chainsaw chain must be carried out in the following sequence:

1. Prepare thick clothing and gloves and a protective mask. Pour charcoal into the hearth and set it on fire with a special liquid.
2. Fold the workpiece from one piece of chain. In the place where the handle will be, you can add some pieces from the chain. It should be remembered that the result of the work should be a single monolithic product. The handle to the knife is not made separately.
3. Put the workpiece on the coals. Provide air flow to raise the temperature. Wait until the steel turns dark red. In this state, it becomes forged without losing quality characteristics.
4. Remove the hot chain from the fire and place it on the anvil. With a few strong blows, flatten it so that the links fuse together, turning into a single monolithic part.
5. Step by step, by heating the workpiece in the furnace and shaping it with a hammer, forge a knife, which has a handle and a blade. After the workpiece has cooled down, sharpen and polish it.
6. Temper the product. To do this, it must be red-hot again and lowered into cold water... After that, you can finish the knife. It uses an acid and an engraving machine. The finished blade is polished again and washed in warm soapy water.

When making a blade yourself, you must adhere to certain parameters so that the finished product does not fall under the category of edged weapons.