DIY wooden trays. Wooden tray with handles. Old cabinet doors

Many of us love to have a snack while sitting at the TV watching some interesting film, but without a tray you can't bring a lot of sweets at once, and even for crumbs on the furniture and the floor, it can fly in from the fair half)) It is also convenient to bring breakfast to bed on a tray, waking up a loved one with the pleasant aroma of brewed fresh coffee. In general, a useful device for household use.

Making a tray out of wood is quite simple, for which you need to take boards from a pallet or a wooden box, trim and sand. With the help of wood glue and clamps, glue it into one whole board, and then make sides from poplar or aspen boards. The resulting surface is coated with polyurethane varnish, and the sides are painted with white paint.

So, let's look at what exactly is needed to make a tray?

Materials

1.planks from pallet or wooden box
2.carpentry glue
3.Screws
4. putty for wood
5.polyurethane-based varnish
6.white paint in a spray can

Tools

1.hacksaw
2.planer
3.sander
4. screwdriver
5.brush
6.clamp
7.sandpaper
8.rule
9. pencil
10 masking tape

Step-by-step instructions for making a tray from natural wood do it yourself.

As mentioned above, the first step is to prepare the boards by disassembling a pallet or wooden box. Saw to equal size, planer and sand.

Then the resulting blanks should be glued together into a single whole, this can be done using wood glue and clamps. The edges of each board are coated with glue and attached to each other, when everything is assembled and smeared, everything is pulled together with clamps.

The boards should be kept in this position until the glue is completely dry, which is at least 24 hours, after which the clamps are slowly loosened and removed, and the excess glue from the surface is removed with a chisel.

Then the surface is carefully sanded with a grinder or ordinary sandpaper.

We remove all unnecessary things with a chisel and align.

Then we carefully grind it with sandpaper so that no burrs remain.

This box is twisted with clamps and is in this position until the glue dries.

If you used self-tapping screws for assembling the structure, then the caps should be drowned in advance in the wood cavity by countersinking the holes, and then putty the screw heads with putty on the wood. This putty can be prepared on your own, for which you need wood glue and sawdust after grinding (small), mix with glue and bring to a homogeneous mass, you should get a thick semolina porridge)) and then simply apply the prepared composition to the desired place and level it. No worse than a store counterpart)

Excess glue is removed with a chisel and the surface is sanded with a grinder.

After that, the tray must be painted and varnished, the lower part is sealed by the master with masking tape so that paint does not get on it when applying paint from a spray can.

Painting work is best done in a well-ventilated area, if there is none, just go outside and paint. Do not forget about basic protective equipment (respirator, gloves)

In this article I will show you a few simple tricks that can be used to give a wooden surface a slightly aged look. Thus, it is convenient to process any products made of soft wood. We will train using the example of a pine tree tray. Such a tray turns out to be convenient for use, it looks good just as an interior item, as a background when taking photographs, and it just cheers up with its brightness! And extremely easy to make!

Necessary materials:
A board or piece of shield made of soft wood;
Brush / drill attachment + drill or screwdriver;
Brush for removing dust from the surface
Stain
Art acrylic in several colors
Bristle brushes, flutes
Palette or container for mixing paints
A container with water for washing brushes
Sandpaper (60 or 80)
Acrylic primer for wooden surfaces (or diluted with water 1: 1 acrylic varnish)
Acrylic varnish for topcoat
Handles (e.g. for furniture) and screws / screws for fixing them

A few words about the base. Ideally, I would choose a board with interesting edges. But in winter time years, it is difficult to find a nice board, but there are furniture boards and there is free sawing with purchase. The disadvantage of the shield is that it is spliced \u200b\u200bfrom several bars and a single relief on the surface will not work. True, with the coloring, which will be discussed, this will not be noticeable on the finished product. However, if you cover the wood only with stain and refrain from staining, it will be visible. But this material is easily available at any time of the year. I chose a 30 * 2000 shield and sawed it right there into 4 pieces - 4 blanks for trays.
For the first stage, we need a brush / drill attachment + drill or screwdriver. At this stage, we will remove soft fibers from the wooden surface, revealing a natural relief. It is cheaper to buy a corset and wield it - but this is a rather long physical work. You can buy an accessory for a drill or screwdriver, it works much more efficiently. When removing soft fibers, a lot of wood dust is obtained, so I highly discourage doing this indoors. It is most convenient in the country: there, as a rule, there are no problems with electricity near the house and you can use a drill. In the city, it is rather problematic to find electricity on the street, so I used a screwdriver. This is convenient, except that its battery is not enough to handle the entire board and has to be recharged. But the dusty part of the work can be done outside.
Both the corset and the attachment need to work the same way - draw along the fibers, and not across. Then the soft fibers will be thrown to the side, and the hard ones will remain in place. How much to rub is a matter of taste, I get down to work rather diligently, as a result, deep grooves are formed, the relief looks like an old tree, as if the board was left for several years on the street.




This is what the board looks like after processing


Sand the edges of the board using sandpaper (or a sander - this is more effective), so you can give it a more finished look and protect the tray user from scratches that can leave sharp corners of the board:


By the end of this step, be sure to remove wood dust from the board with an elastic brush, scrubbing it out of all the recesses. I use a slightly damp brush so I don't breathe too much dust.

Now you can start painting. There are many options here, but in general the order is followed: in the first step, we set the lowest, main color. The first layer must be well laid and all the grooves must be painted over, it is in them that it will be visible on the finished product. I use a dark stain called "Old Wood", the dark color will show through and give the wood base an antique look. In addition, the stain spreads very well along the fibers and fills all the recesses itself, so you don't have to worry about non-staining. Through trial and error, and after some of the bottles of stains went to the bin, I chose Liberon stains. The most important advantage of these wood stains is their uniform distribution over the surface, without streaks and bald spots. I have come across stains that roll off the surface, instead of being absorbed into it, and as a result, ugly stains are formed that give out color (when, as a good stain, it looks like the wood was from the very beginning of this shade). There are hybrids of stain and varnish on sale, you can use this option, in which case the next step (applying the primer) can be skipped. I apply the stain with a flute (wide bristle flat brush).


Even if you are using the best stain in the world, it is best to avoid streaks to ensure that the color is applied evenly.


A distinctive feature of good quality wood stains is that they show the texture of wood, that is, the soft fibers of the fabric, due to better absorbency, are colored more strongly and become darker than the denser, hard fibers. In the first step, we created a relief, which is very well emphasized when painting.


After drying, the painted surface looks like this:


To be honest, every time I struggle with the temptation to varnish this beauty and not do anything else with it. But it's not athletic. Therefore, we continue and before the next stage (color imposition), I recommend covering the entire surface with an acrylate primer (any company that is most importantly suitable for wooden surfaces). Since water-based acrylic paints, if you do not lay a layer of soil, the water will wash away the stain and the paint will turn dark, its brightness will disappear. The soil allows you to avoid this.




Here's what happened - it could have been left as it is! What could be more beautiful than the warmth of natural wood.






But let's continue! For the next layer, we need acrylic paint and bristle brushes, as well as sandpaper. The whole principle of painting consists in a cycle of actions "paint - skin", these actions must be repeated until you like the result. By adding new shades that are close to the previous ones, the color can be made more complex and voluminous, achieving the feeling that the board has been painted several times over the years and the lower layers of paint are visible through the rubbed places in the upper layers.

I advise you to choose a color for painting that is present in your interior as the main or additional color (depending on what background this element will be placed on later). This color needs to be divided into two or three tones (the color present in the interior and two colors, the tone is lighter and darker than the first), you can pick up and subsequently perform a couple of bright strokes. It is better to apply the lightest shade first. Although acrylic paint is opaque, in some places a thin layer of paint will still show through. And a color put on white or light paint will look brighter than the same color put on a dark base. Thus, applying a light shade first, we prepare the basis for a bright and saturated second and subsequent layers. A little about acrylic paints: these are very easy-to-use water-based paints. They are odorless, dry within an hour, depending on the layer thickness, which allows them to work without interruption. They have bright, saturated shades in the palettes of different manufacturers, which can also be mixed with each other to obtain any shades. Thickened paint can be thinned with water. Brushes should be washed immediately after use under running water. If the paint dries on the brush, it won't wash off. You can choose acrylic paints from any manufacturer, but it is best to take artistic acrylic - it has a dense consistency and is well applied to the surface. Interior paints that can be tinted are also suitable. I do not advise using cheap acrylic from stationery stores for children's creativity, it often comes across slimy and rolls off the surface, it is completely impossible to work with it. I have in my arsenal acrylic paints from Maimeri Acrilico and artistic acrylic "Ladoga" and from Gamma. The light blue shade is already in the Maimeri Acrilico palette, it suits me perfectly, and I'll start with it.


I use a hard bristle brush for this work. It is important not to wet the brush in water before work, otherwise the bristles will become soft and will repeat any bend on the surface, when it is important for me to preserve the darker, original color in the recesses of the relief. When painting the relief, hold the brush perpendicular to the stroke (as in the photo), in this case, individual bristles will not fall into the grooves and, accordingly, paint them. The paint should be thick, if it is fresh, then it is definitely not required to dilute it with water. Squeeze out required amount paint on the palette, if necessary, mix several colors to obtain the desired shade. There should not be a lot of paint on the brush, it should be semi-dry. When applying paint, do not press hard on the brush, strokes should be done with light movements, lightly touching the surface with the bristles.
1st side of the board:




2nd side of the board:


Add acrylic colors as desired. We skin-paint as much as the soul requires and your taste:


Several strokes with whitewash:

After that, I decide that's enough. In conclusion, the board must be varnished - preferably also acrylic. They are matte, semi-matte and glossy, sold both in art stores in small volumes, as well as in liter stores in stores. Acrylic varnishes do not change the shades of the base, they also dry quickly and are odorless. I usually choose matt or semi-matt varnish.
After the varnish has dried, the most difficult question will have to be solved: which side will be the front. You can buy handles that can be easily screwed on the side of the board, and not through it, then you can turn the board over according to your mood. In my version, the through mount, so you have to think hard about choosing the front side.

Getting your morning coffee in bed is a pleasure. How to make a breakfast table in bed, what materials to use? This is worth talking about in detail.

The countertop is the main piece that holds the cutlery, beverage cups and snack plates

It's nice to wake up in the morning and see a table for breakfast in bed in front of you, with a cup of coffee and a plate of sandwiches on it. This is very comfortable for a completely healthy person. And for a patient with partial loss of mobility, a table in bed is simply necessary. IN last years on sale you can find a structure that combines 2 items. It has long been a famous breakfast table in bed and laptop stand. This product is often equipped with a built-in fan. It runs from a computer and plugs into the USB port of the laptop. It dissipates heat well and does not allow the laptop to overheat.

The bedside table for a laptop or just for breakfast has quite simple design... It consists:

• from the countertop;
• from the sides;
• from the legs.

The table top is the main piece on which the cutlery, drink cups and snack plates are placed. The sides are installed on its sides and do not allow crumbs or drops of liquid to get into the bed.

Getting your morning coffee in bed is very nice

Legs are folding or fixed. The former make the product more mobile. When folded, the product can be used like a regular tray. But on the other hand, a coffee table made with fixed legs is much more stable. The height of the legs can sometimes be adjusted. If the product has handles, it becomes even more convenient to use.

The bed attachment table top can be made:

• from ordinary plywood;
• from a mosaic panel;
• from tinted or frosted glass;
• made of plastic;
• from other materials.

Traditional materials for making a breakfast tray in bed are various types of wood:

• maple;
• ash;
• pine;
• cedar;
• red.

The workpieces undergo special processing, after which they are easy to wash. The countertop element is coated with a heat-resistant varnish, which does not leave traces of hot dishes. The disadvantage of such products is their high weight. Hevea bed tables are very popular. This is the name of a rubber tree from Africa. Even without varnish, it is highly resistant to moisture and temperature extremes. Wood and wood products are lightweight and highly durable.

Legs are folding or fixed

Wooden tables in bed is good. But the bamboo breakfast tray is pretty nifty too. Its light colors fit perfectly into any interior. It looks especially good in a room made in japanese style... In the Land of the Rising Sun, ordinary tables are not welcome, so the folding option does not violate these laws at all. A folding portable coffee table allows you to have breakfast at it.

Plastic products are in demand for patient care. They are very easy to clean and do not need to be disinfected. Metal products of this type are also good. The metal can be chrome plated or powder coated. Such devices are most often produced as computer stands.

Making a breakfast table (video)

How to make a table yourself?

You can make any breakfast tables in bed with your own hands. The product design will only depend on you. The sides can be carved from plywood, wood or plastic, the countertops themselves - from glass or plywood. Do-it-yourself breakfast table should start with the simplest drawing. He or a diagram should contain the main dimensions of all parts. The main one is the countertop. She must be small size... It is enough to have a couple of cups of coffee or other drinks and a few sandwiches on it. After breakfast, it is quite possible to place a laptop, several magazines or a notebook with a pen on the device.

The height of the legs is very important. Each should have such dimensions that the assembled table does not interfere with human movements. The approach here should be strictly individual for a particular case. Small but comfortable handles also need to be made. They can be simply cut into the worktop or in the sides. You can also use handles that are installed on pieces of furniture.

Height homemade construction can be 260 mm, table top length - 620 mm and width - 420 mm. Its recommended thickness is 16-20 mm. The sides are made from billets in the form of blocks with dimensions of 25x10 mm. Wider bars can also be used. You need to assemble your table using wood glue using nails. At the time of gluing, it is required to fix the parts with clamps.

To make the simplest legs, you need to take a board 50 mm wide and about 18 mm thick. 4 pieces of 245 mm length are cut from it. Each is beveled with a depth of 10 mm. A hole is drilled at the other end for the axle. Its center should be 25 mm from the edges of the workpiece. With a compass, you need to draw a circle with a center in the middle of the hole and cut the workpiece with a jigsaw. Each leg is connected with jumpers from the same material for strength. The product is varnished or decorated in any well-known style. Images made using decoupage technique, gilded legs, carved tabletop will look great.

An aesthetic tray is not just a stylish decor attribute, but also a practical everyday thing. And if this accessory is made with my own hands, then it also turns into a priceless family relic.

You can transport food and drinks on it, install hygiene products on it in the bathroom, and also use it as an element of the decor composition.

And in order not to spend money, we bring to your attention several non-trivial ways of how to make an interesting tray with your own hands.

For important events

In order to make a stylish tray for festive occasions and important events, you will need a cutting board without a handle and a couple of handles from furniture drawers.

From the tools you will need: a drill, a drill, screws for attaching pens, a regular pencil and a tape measure.

To begin with, we take the handles from the drawers and mark with a pencil where they are attached to the board. Drill holes for screws in measured places.

After that, we strengthen the handles well into the prepared holes. You can attach rubber legs to the tray, which will transform it into an even more elegant and practical tool.

From an old picture

Another fun idea is to make a tray out of the frame of a damaged painting that will look just wonderful. For this we need some things: fabric; stain, varnish; brush, glass, stained glass handles, hot glue, picture frame.

First of all, we grease the frame with a stain, pleasant to your eye paint. Then we fasten the selected handles on the sides of the planned tray with self-tapping screws, and the protruding screw heads must also be painted to match the homemade product.

Next step will tighten the frame with the selected piece of fabric and fix it with glue.

Final stage - this is the protection of the fabric from wear.

Therefore, to save charm, we cover the bottom with glass, which, in the same way, we fix at the corners by the same method.

Remembering school

If you want to really surprise your friends with your needlework, then a tray with an imitation of a blackboard is exactly what you need. Moreover, this can be done with the help of spray paint, which has the desired effect, and a roll of paint strip.

A regular wooden tray is cleaned and wrapped in tape completely except for the bottom. Then the required area is painted - everything is ready for drying for half an hour.

From simple boards

For connoisseurs of eco-minimalism, they will like the product made of planks. Just size up a couple of planks and connect them with glue or just nails.

If possible, they must first be painted, but the tray looks very interesting in its natural form. The main thing is to attach the handles for practicality.

Reinventing the old attribute

You can just refresh a long-familiar thing. So, not a small tray will be an excellent basis for decorating wine bottle corks.

Therefore, when an opportunity arises to get an extra one, do not rush to neglect it. Simply place the corks on hot glue and then serve drinks confidently on the original tray.

Mosaic

Did your beloved vase break or tiles crumbled during repairs? Not scary! Even this waste can be used. Using glue and tile grout, you can create wonderful mosaic dishes.

Among the offers of modern furniture stores are interesting coffee tables with a soft top, if you can call it that. They look interesting in the interior, but they are not practical even once. It is not as easy to wipe off juice or coffee stains on them as on a regular wooden or glass countertop. For all owners of such a miracle and just those who love breakfast in bed, we suggest making such a tray. It is stylish in appearance and not expensive in terms of cost.

Materials

Before making your own tray, make sure you have:

• boards from a pallet or box;
• boards hardwood wood;
• white paints;
• polyurethane-based varnish;
• masking tape;
• saws;
• sandpaper;
• brushes;
• chisels;
• clamps;
• wood glue;
• roulette;
• self-tapping screws;
• drills;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• pencil.

Step 1... Decide on the dimensions of the tray and, based on this, cut the boards you have from the box or pallet to length. In this case, I wanted the boards to look like a single whole after gluing, without joints, seams and other irregularities. For this, the boards had to be matched to each other and in thickness.

Step 2... With the help of clamps and wood glue, all the boards should be glued together, carefully pressing them together so that none of them are knocked out of the row. After the workpiece has dried, all excess glue should be removed, and the surfaces should be carefully sanded.

Step 3... Planks of light wood will need to make the sides of the tray. In this case, the poplar was taken.

When cutting wood, start from the perimeter of the base and the height of the tray you want.

Be sure to mark the handle cutouts in the side edges. Take into account the height at which the base will be mounted so that the slots do not go into the bottom part.

Step 4... After cutting the holes, sand them thoroughly. They should be perfectly smooth.

Step 5... Using wood glue and clamps, glue the sides to the base.

Step 6... You can use self-tapping screws as additional fasteners.

Step 7... After the glue has dried, remove excess glue. Seal the holes formed by the fasteners with wood putty. After letting it dry, smooth the surface with sandpaper or a sander.

Step 8... Cover the bottom of the tray with masking tape. Apply two layers of paint to the sides. After it dries, remove the tape and leave everything until the surface is completely dry.