How to make a brick stove for a summer residence with your own hands: masonry rules and step-by-step instructions. Do-it-yourself mini Russian oven: specifics and orders for the construction of a compact oven Do-it-yourself brick cooking ovens of small sizes

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You can heat a small room using a handmade mini-oven. There are several options for mini-ovens, which differ in material and complexity of construction.

Steel furnaces. This type of mini-oven is not expensive and easy to install, but the service life of such a model will be short-lived.

Cast iron stoves. The cost of such stoves is quite high, but it can also serve for a very long time, but only if it is not subjected to sudden changes in temperature.

Mini brick oven. This type of furnace is the most popular today and there are reasons for this:

Keeps warm for a long time
The ability to do it yourself
Available fuel
Possibility to make a stove with a stove or oven
High reliability

Due to the availability of material and simplicity in execution, even a novice stove-maker will be able to make a mini-oven with his own hands.

Most often, a mini-oven for a summer residence is made with or without a cooking stove. It is the second option that we will consider in more detail.

Advantages and disadvantages of mini ovens

Like other stoves, the brick mini stove has positive and negative sides. On the positive side, one can single out:

The oven will last a very long time if it is used correctly.
Such a structure heats up quickly and retains heat for a long time, giving it to the room.
You can make a mini brick oven with your own hands.
During manufacturing, the structure can be made in any size and shape.
If desired, you can add a stove or oven to the structure.
A mini-oven made of bricks is safe, since it does not heat up very much, unlike ovens made of other material, therefore the likelihood of getting burned is minimal.

There are also disadvantages to this design:

Due to the large weight, a foundation is needed for the furnace, which will take time to fill.
During operation, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of safety and clearly follow the drawings in order to make the oven correctly. Otherwise, it can be dangerous to use the oven.

DIY materials for making a mini-oven

In order to make a mini-brick oven with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

Two types of bricks (fireproof and red)
Building clay and fireclay
Fine sand (well sieved)
Roofing material
Doors for the furnace, blower and for the hole through which the furnace will be cleaned
Grate
Gate valve
Trumpet

From the tools you will need to prepare a trowel, level, plumb line and tape measure. After everything you need is prepared, we proceed to laying the stove.

Furnace foundation and furnace dimensions

Before starting work, you need to choose a place so that the walls of the furnace are at least 50 cm away from the walls of the room. You should also think about the foundation: you can make a regular foundation from sand and cement. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. The sand must be of good quality, and if you take ordinary sand, then it must be sieved well. The dimensions of the foundation depend on the size of the furnace plus 10 cm for a stock on each side, but the height of the foundation should be about 1 m. It is worth remembering that such a foundation dries for a long time.

For a mini-oven, you can make a foundation of clay and brick. To do this, we dig a hole, the depth of which should be at least 5 rows of bricks. Then we fill it with clay to a height of a couple of rows of bricks and tamp it well. Then we put roofing material on the clay, and on it bricks, which must be coated with clay. The last row of bricks should be level with the floor, and it should also be covered with roofing material. Only after that do we start making the oven itself. This option of the foundation is preferable in that it requires less time and effort than the previous option, and you can start manufacturing the structure right away.

Considering that the stove will be smaller than the usual ones, the dimensions of the furnaces for mini-stoves will be smaller, but they can be of the usual sizes if desired. If the firebox is small, then it will be inconvenient to put firewood, so we will consider the option of a mini-brick oven made of bricks with our own hands with the dimensions of fireboxes for an ordinary stove.

Step-by-step instructions for making a mini oven

Considering the layout of the mini-oven for the summer cottage, let's get to work.

Stages 1 to 12

Steps 13 to 24

Stages 25 to 35

Laying from 1 to 12 rows

The first row is laid out, and in the second it is necessary to provide a place for the blower door. The rows must be coated with a solution. Before installing the blower door, it must be wrapped in asbestos, and the door will be fastened with wire.

During the laying of the 5th row, a grate is installed. Starting from this row, up to the 15th, masonry should be made with refractory bricks.

In the 6th row, a firebox door should be installed, with which the same work should be done as with the blower door (wrap with asbestos, secure with wire).

Lay out the 7th row according to the layout. Each layer must be coated with a solution. Lay out rows 8, 9,10, 11 and 12 in accordance with the layout.

Laying from 13 to 24 rows

From the 13th row, we begin to form the combustion chamber and vertical channels. The main thing here is to carefully follow the orders, otherwise you can violate the correctness of the design.

On the 15th row, it is necessary to lay out a layer of clay-cement mortar. It will strengthen the bottom of the cleaning chamber, after which the door itself can be installed.

Laying from 25 to 35 rows

In the 25th row, the bottom surface of the second cleaning chamber should be closed up, also laying this row with clay-sand mortar, and then the door should be installed.

In rows 28 and 32, two latches should be installed, with which the draft will be regulated.

With the 35th next, we begin to raise the chimney, as shown in the layout.

If everything is done correctly, after completing all the work, you should get such a compact model.

This model has following sizes: 51 cm wide, 89 cm deep and 2.38 m high. Even beginners can make such an oven. In addition, if you do not have experience in stove business, then it is not recommended to make more complex models, since you can get confused in the orders and violate the integrity of the structure, which will affect the quality of its work and service life.

Country houses are increasingly equipped with small stoves. different models... The stove in the interior by its very presence makes it warmer and more comfortable. And in spring and autumn, it provides a comfortable temperature in the premises, which is doubly pleasant when it is raining outside the window or a damp cold wind blows.

The modern market offers a huge selection of compact ovens for country housesdesigned to work on different types fuel:

Gas;
Electrical;
Models fired with coal, pellets or wood.

Wood-burning stoves are in special demand. The tongues of live fire dancing in the firebox, the breathtaking scent of real wood, the special soft, enveloping and relaxing warmth make them desirable both in small country houses and in solid country cottages.

Speech, in this article, will focus specifically on wood-burning stoves.

Types of wood burning stoves

Having decided on what your heater will work on, you should decide what its main parameters will be.

Modern wood stoves it is customary to subdivide according to the following indicators:

Appointment:
- Heating, their only task is to heat the building;
- Heating and cooking. They heat several rooms at once and have special structural elements (hobs) that allow you to cook and heat food;
- Boiler furnaces. A water circuit is built into them, which allows them to be used in a hot water heating circuit, or for preparing hot water. types of such structures are bath stoves;
- The stove is universal, equipped with a compartment for drying fruits, a hot water box, an oven, a summer chimney and a samovar connection point.
Manufacturing material:
- Metal, with thin and thick walls;
- Cast iron;
- Brick;
installation site:
- classic options, designed for installation near the wall;
- corner;
- island. The design of such stoves allows them to be placed in the center of the room;
duration of burning. This indicator is one of the most important. According to it, the furnaces are divided into models:
- short-term (up to 3 hours) burning of one bookmark of firewood;
- long (up to 12 hours), which is achieved due to the control system of the air supplied to the firebox. The most popular models are the and lines.

Cast iron stoves

These models are presented on the market in much smaller quantities. They are used as a backup heat source that can be used in emergency situations. Unlike thin-walled steel, cast iron stoves, having quickly warmed up, they store heat for a long time.

Products of this group are divided into two basic groups.

Long burning (multi-fuel).

Some models are produced with a built-in additional air supply system, which allows the pyrolysis gases to be burned.

Furnaces with built-in heat exchangers and water circuit.

Such models allow you to equip in the country water heating... Their capacity is sufficient to heat one and two-story country houses large area. Provided that the CO is filled with antifreeze coolant.

A typical representative of this group can be considered

Brick ovens

A small brick oven for a summer residence is the most durable, reliable and status option. But such ovens are also quite expensive. Rooms warm up more slowly than when using steel or cast iron models. But this is many times compensated by the quality of heat and the duration of its preservation.

The vast majority of brick ovens are structurally adapted for cooking. Some models can be used as fireplaces.

Most often, one of the stove models is used as summer cottages:

dutch
swede
kuznetsov ovens.

This is explained by the fact that in the lines of small brick stoves for giving these models, you can choose fairly compact options, stoves of a similar design are available for independent masonry (with strict adherence to the orders), have an acceptable cost (even when ordering work from a professional stove-maker).

Products of the types mentioned allow you to choose the optimal model, which:

will provide the optimal temperature in the country house with a minimum consumption of firewood;
will evenly warm up over the entire height;
maintain a comfortable temperature in the summer cottage for a long time;
have a maximum heating of the outer walls of no more than 95 ° C;
the oven must be completely safe and easy to use;
its estimated durability (with the use of appropriate materials and properly executed masonry) must be at least 20 years;
the appearance of through cracks in the outer walls is unacceptable. It is dangerous for human health (carbon monoxide gases get into the room);
visually attractive appearance.

What is required for work

If you decide to lay out a brick oven yourself in the country, you should start by choosing its type. Then the required ordering is selected (in the Internet or technical literature). It is possible to order the development of a personal design for an experienced stove-maker. But this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Basic materials

With the order in hand, you can go to the procurement of materials (and the missing tool). As a rule, the list of required materials and installation accessories is approximately the same for any brick oven. The only difference is in the amount of materials required.

For work, you will definitely need:

brick, but not any, but the one that is listed in the order.

This material is subdivided into:

by size:
- 250 * 120 * 65 - regular;
- 250 * 120 * 80 - thickened;
- 288 * 138 * 138 - modular;
Strength (from grade 75 to grade 300);
By varieties:
- Only bricks of the 1st and 2nd grade are suitable for masonry. The body of the furnace and the chimney are placed from it;
Refractory (another name, fireclay). This brick is intended for laying the firebox.

Red clay (ordinary). The material is used to make masonry mortar. It is subdivided into:
- Fatty (sand impurities do not exceed 3%);
- Medium (≤ 15%);
- Skinny (about 30%);
Sand (preferably quarry);
Chamotte (desirable). This material is added instead of sand to clay, when making mortar for the masonry of the furnace;
Water (preferably rainwater or distilled). It is strictly forbidden to work with hard water;
Slaked lime. This material will be required for the arrangement, as well as the head chimneythat rises above the roof;
Cement. Solutions based on it can be used instead of lime. For country oven mark 400 and above will be enough.

Additional materials

Steel profiles (if provided by the order);
Steel sheet (for flooring in front of the firebox);
Annealed steel wire;
Asbestos cord;
Waterproofing (roofing material);
Building felt (for laying under the pre-furnace sheet);
Refractory mastics (Russian "Garant" or "Monolith"), paint (for example, German Dufa Heizkorperlack).

If your financial capabilities are not limited, you can reduce the time of work (while improving its quality). Purchase ready-made dry masonry mixes. For example, from the Finnish Scanterm line (or analogs).

In addition to basic and additional building materials, you will need basic furnace appliances (according to the order):

The furnace door (it is better to take a glazed one, which will allow you to admire the fire dance);
Blower door;
Views;
Gate valves;
Rotary dampers;
Weathervane.

Tool

For the convenience of work, you will need the following tool:

Stove-maker's hammer;
Pick;
Construction trowel (other name, trowel);
Joining for masonry joints (desirable);
Cycle knife;
A shovel for mixing the solution (can be replaced with an electric drill with a mixer);
Measuring tool:
- Roulette;
- folding meter;
- plumb line;
- square;
- levels: construction, water (if any, laser);
falcons;
grater and half grater;
grinder with a set of discs for stone or concrete;
extension.

In addition, you will need a large container for preparing masonry mortar and a bucket for water.

Masonry

If earlier the laying of the stove was carried out exclusively according to the existing orders, today the Internet provides an opportunity to lay out a simple stove, guided by a step-by-step photo with comments. This option is much clearer to many summer residents. Since the correct reading of the orders requires a primary knowledge of stove business and conventions.

We offer you a combined version (ordering + photo), telling about the laying of a simple country stove. This model allows you to heat the room and prepare food.

Arrangement of the foundation

It is from this stage that work begins if the furnace has a significant weight. The option we are considering does not exceed 500 kg for this indicator. Therefore, it can be laid without first making a foundation.

In the event that the floors in the country house are weak, we strongly recommend that you perform a screed in place of the future one.

Thereafter:

we carry out waterproofing of the place of masonry, flooring sheet waterproofing material (roofing material);
on top of it we form a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 10 mm;
under the level (without masonry mortar) we lay out the 1st row (position 1 of the order given above);
in the second and third rows we have a blower door. Wrap it twice with a cord (asbestos) and fix it using wire;
put the 2nd and 3rd row;
4th is done with fireclay bricks;
A grate is placed in the seat. Since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal linear expansion when forming the seat, a four-sided gap of 10 mm must be provided;
The fifth row is laid on the edge. We form a stand inside the chimney, for the subsequent formation of an internal partition. With a slight protrusion beyond the plane of the rear wall of the furnace "on dry" (without the use of masonry mortar) is laid "kick brick";
In 6-8 rows there will be a firebox door. We also wrap it with an asbestos cord along the installation perimeter, connect the fixing wire to it. Then we fix the door in the desired position using several bricks (see photo).
We put the 6th row "in a spoon" along the contour of the fifth, then the 7th "on the edge". We grout the inner walls of the chimney with a damp cloth (remove excess solution);
To ensure the dressing of masonry seams, the 8th row is placed in a spoon (flat) with a brick in ¾ (workpieces of the required length are made with a grinder). The back wall in this row is placed on the edge;
In the ninth row, the firebox door overlaps from above. Above the firebox, to center the fire under the burner, a "smoke tooth" (beveled brick) is placed.
The 10th row, in order to keep the door open, is laid with a brick offset to the back wall. Before starting the masonry, a wet asbestos cord should be laid, which will act as a sealant along the line of contact between the hob and the brick;
Starting from row 11, a chimney is formed (with a step-by-step offset to the rear wall). In order to prevent this from displacing the center of gravity of the entire furnace, the pipe is made on top (metal), or made attached;
12 row. This is the installation site of the valve, which is pre-sealed with an asbestos cord and coated with clay masonry mortar;
Then a chimney is placed in ¼, to which a metal pipe is joined;
The knockout brick is taken out and the construction waste accumulated there is removed from the chimney;
The gap formed between the floor and the first row of brickwork is closed with an L-shaped metal plate. then the plinth is nailed.
The oven is whitewashed, after which the outer surface is covered with heat-resistant varnish (oven). The joints between brickwork and metal structural elements are additionally sealed. It is advisable to paint all stove appliances with refractory black paint.
A test furnace is in progress (small chips, paper). After that, the structure is kept for 14-15 days to complete natural drying.

Below is another selection of photographs that shows that a brick oven can not only be laid from scratch, but also can be completely replaced with partial preservation of the structure (in our case, the pipe and foundation).

The stove, which had stood at the dacha for 18 years, needed to be updated. When comparing two solutions: repair, or complete replacement the furnace, after checking its actual condition, it was decided to replace it, while preserving (in order to save money and time for laying) the old foundation and the chimney.

To perform these works, Mr. Rublev (it was he who posted these materials on the network), it took:

Kiln brick brand "Vitebsky" - 450 pcs;
Fireclay bricks for the firebox - 40 pieces;
Sheet asbestos - 1 sheet;
Cement M400 - 1 bag;
Fireclay - 3 bags;
Refractory black paint designed for use at temperatures up to 600 ° C - 1 can;
Refractory varnish (colorless) - 2 bottles;
Door with glass for the firebox - 1 piece;
Blower door (with pattern matching to the main one) - 1 piece;
Medium-sized grate - 1 piece;

The reels and valves are used from the old oven.

Now let's see.

This is what the oven looked like before the repair. The cracks in the slab, the cracks around it and the brick crumbling in the firebox were the basis for rework.
The pipe is perfectly preserved. And, with the consent of the master stove-maker, it was decided to leave it. The issue of fixing the pipe after there was no furnace under it was solved very simply. On both sides, grooves were cut in its walls, into which a corner was inserted. To prevent the latter from diverging, it was fixed with wire. And two boards were brought under it (this is the second floor country house).
Then they began to disassemble the oven. At the same time, they tried to save the old brick for reuse. At the same time, the two uppermost rows were kept on the pipe. This eliminated the need to re-pass the floor-ceiling covering.
Dismantling continues. It got to oven... Since it is not needed for a new oven, we delete it.
We got to the lower chimneys
Removed everything to the foundation
And this is "a look through a pipe." The sky is visible. So the thrust is guaranteed.
The stove-maker turned out to be a professional. Therefore, instead of joining the seams, I suggested to remove the chamfer from them. It turned out great.
Laying the first brick of the new furnace
The bottom row is ready. Used bricks are laid inside.
This is what a professional masonry looks like
The lower thermal chamber (L-shaped) is formed.
Its location guarantees the lower heating of the indoor air.
Laying a row of fireclay bricks under the base of the firebox. The laid grate is clearly visible. Right, lower view.
The turn came to the firebox door.
View in all its glory (see photo 13)
Setting the hob to 1 burner (trying on).
Above the firebox, the master formed a protruding canopy of brick. If the door allows soot to pass through, it will not stain the entire oven wall, but will be held by this element.
The hob is placed on top of the mastic. Nearby there is a functional set for dishes, which is very convenient.
And this is the "belly of the oven", one of the knees of the inner chimney.
And these are all 3 knees in the "group portrait"
Firebox
Almost full height. Visor and latch are clearly visible (from the side).
A dryer is placed over the hob.
And here you can see how the issue of warm air access has been resolved. Everything ingenious is simple (bottom view)
Top shelf. It is followed by vertical sections of the chimney.
The stove has reached its ceiling, which is also equipped with a visor for beauty.
We start laying the pipe in free space, trying to combine it with the existing part.
This is the distance left between the new and old parts of the pipe. The brick will not enter unambiguously. But you must.
This did not stop the professional. The stove operator simply used two jacks and lifted the rest of the pipe to the desired height.
We complete the laying of the connecting row and lay the masonry mortar on top of it.
We lower the upper part and it sits tightly on the solution.
We cover the surfaces of the stove with varnish, and the metal elements. black paint. The work has been completed.
Control firebox.

In the country houses they build heating or heating and cooking mini brick ovens. These structures allow you to heat the house in the off-season and in winter time of the year.

A stove designed exclusively for heating is erected if on summer cottage all year round there is gas and electricity. If there is nothing to cook food on, they build stoves with a hob.

Diagrams of small brick ovens

Compact ovens do not take up much space, which is especially important for small premises. Heaters have rectangular section at the base. Height ovens depends on the height of the building and the selected model. A brick chimney is often replaced with a factory-made steel chimney.

Heating and cooking mini-oven

Small ovens designed for heating the house and cooking food are built in niche for the stove.

In another niche, located above the firebox, you can build oven, hot water container... Niche space is often used to dry things.

Consider a specific scheme of a compact stove with a size bases 0.64 x 0.51 meters (2 x 3.5 bricks) and 2.15 meters high (32 layers of masonry).

This heater model is designed for heating small and medium-sized houses with an area from 25 to 40 square meters ... Ceramic corpulent (ordinary) brick is suitable for masonry.

The stove is built in the kitchen (in the middle of the room or against the wall). The oven of this model contains the following structural elements:

combustion chamber;
blew;
smoke channels;
cleaning hole smoke channels;
hole for the construction of a chimney;
niche with a cooking deck;
niche for installing an oven or hot water tank.

Metallic elements for heater buy in a hardware store. The list factory parts include:

furnace door size 20 x 20 cm (solid cast iron or with fireproof glass in a metal frame);

Photo 1. Furnace door, size 30 by 30, made of polished cast iron and fireproof glass. There is a possibility of traction regulation.

blower door ( 14 x 14 cm);
2 doors for cleaning smoke channels ( 20 x 14 cm);
grate ( 45 x 25 cm);
cooking deck size 20 x 35 cm (with or without hole);
2 gate valves;
steel angle profile length 50 cm (fixed between the furnace plate and stove wall);
metal sheet pre-furnace size 50 x 60-70 cm.

Oven and hot water tank welded from steel sheet. Under pre-furnace leaf put asbestos cardboard of the same size. For oven works required:

222 units full-bodied red bricks;
ready masonry mix for fireplaces and stoves (or a solution of sand and ordinary clay taken locally in a quarry).

Small heating device

Consider a specific heater circuit. Base this model has the shape of a rectangle with the size 0.89 x 0.51 meters (2.5 by 2 bricks). Height stoves - 2 meters 38 cm.

Compact dimensions allow the heater to be erected in the corner or in the center of the room. If the country house has a kitchen and a couple of living rooms with a total area up to 40 square meters, the heater is built into the wall openings ( interior partitions).

The main the elements this model:

firebox;
blew;
smoke channels;
outlet to the chimney.

A door with heat-resistant glass in a metal frame or a solid cast-iron door is built into the firebox portal. The oven is being built on a solid foundationburied in the ground. The foundation is made solid or columnar.

Important!The oven is laid out from ceramic and fireclay bricks. A firebox is made of fireclay bricks, the lower and upper parts of the heater are made of ceramic. Laying is done on sandy-clay and fireclay-clay solutions.

Making a small stove for a summer residence with your own hands

In this example, we will consider in detail the preparatory and basic work on the construction of a compact heating mini-oven in the country. Important points works are:

choice of finished project;
choice places in a country house for the construction of a stove;
acquisition materials;
purchase of metal parts and accessories;
oven preparation instrument, purchase or rent of power tools (grinders, vibratory drills);
construction foundation;
construction stoves.

Choosing a finished project

The main requirement to the heater - the ability to give off heat for several hours after heating. Of no small importance is the rapid warming up of the house with economical combustion of fuel. To choose also affect:

weather region in winter months and off-season;
square country house and the number of heated rooms;
cost materials.

Photo 2. An example of a drawing of a small heating brick oven with dimensions. On the right is a sectional view, the order is indicated.

Model selection is influenced by the master's tastes... A well-built heating stove of this design is capable not only of heating, but also of decorating a country house.

Materials

Choice quality materials allows you to build a reliable oven. For work will need:

ceramic bricks ( 260 units);
chamotte bricks ( 130 units);
factory (ready-made) mixes for furnace works (clay-sand and fireclay-sand).

When choosing fireclay bricks for the furnace, pay attention to the marking. Bricks with letter "U" made from recycled, recycled chamotte. They have lower strength values \u200b\u200bcompared to bricks with letter "Ш".

Suitable for laying the lower and upper parts of the heater ordinary red brick... The quality of the material is judged by the presence of cracks, black spots from factory firing. If there are a lot of broken, cracked, burnt bricks in the batch, it is better to look for the material in another store.

Mixtures are diluted water according to the instructions on the package. They do not need to add salt or other ingredients.

Council. Normal consistency masonry paste, put on a spatula, does not fall or flow when the tool is tilted 45-55 degrees.

The metal parts of the stove are purchased at a hardware store. For this design you will need:

furnace door size 30 x 20 cm;
blower door size 20 x 14 cm;
2 doors for cleaning holes - 20 x 40 cm;
grate ( 40 x 23 cm);
roofing material ( 60 x 100 cm), two segment;
steel sheet size 50 x 70 cm;
asbestos slate ( 50 x 70 cm);
steel angle (rolled) length 50 cm;
2 furnace gate valves 13 x 13 cm.

To fix the doors in the masonry you will need 6 meters steel wire diameter 1-2 mm or steel strips ( 1.65 meters), bolts and long screws.

Foundation preparation

The size of the foundation depends on the specific construction conditions. Minimum base thickness for this model of a small oven - 55-60 cm.

The foundation is built in such a way that it blocked the soil freezing zone, Little towered above the floor or was on a par with him. For construction, concrete, steel reinforcement, brick, rubble stone, sand, crushed stone, waterproofing roll material are used.

For a compact small oven, a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation... Installation and filling in progress in the following order:

A pit is dug in the ground, the dimensions of which exceed the perimeter of the future stove 10-20 cm on each side.
The bottom of the pit is leveled and tamped.
A layer of fine gravel is poured into the pit ( 22-25 cm), on it - a layer of medium-grained sand ( 15-17 cm).
The loose stone pillow is leveled and tamped.
The pit is lined with tar paper, roofing felt, the joints are coated with mastic made of bitumen, tar.
Set in the pit formwork to the desired height, a lattice of steel reinforcement is installed inside it.
The pit is poured with concrete, a vibratory drill is used to seal and release air bubbles.
After complete setting and drying of the cement, lay on the base two waterproofing layers from roofing material.
On top of the roofing material, two layers of oven bricks are placed (for mortar).

Building the brick oven itself

Before starting work, masonry mortars are kneaded. Masonry lead to strictly horizontal surface. This parameter is checked at the stage of foundation construction. Below is a description of the ordinal masonry of a heating mini-oven.

1 row. A brick is laid according to the scheme, forming a blower. The lower frame of the blower door is reinforced into the blower portal.

2-3 rows.Laying according to the scheme.

4 row. Fixing the blower door in the masonry, masonry according to the scheme.

5 row. Layout of the combustion chamber. Installation of the grate. Installation of the firebox door into the portal (laying the fasteners in the seams).

6-9 rows. Laying the combustion chamber according to the scheme. Fastening the door holders to the seams.

10-12 rows. Combustion chamber masonry.

13-15 rows. Masonry of the furnace vault, formation of the furnace smoke channel.

16-17 row. Laying according to the scheme, building in the door for cleaning the smoke channel. Sealing door fasteners into seams.

18-24 rows. Formation of furnace smoke channels.

25-26 row. Integration of a door for cleaning the smoke channel. Formation of smoke channels.

27 row. Channel laying.

Row 28. Installation of the bottom valve, channel laying.

29-31 rows. Formation of channels, work according to the scheme.

Photo 3. The middle of the furnace construction process: the furnace is arranged, the formation of smoke channels begins.

32 row. Continuous masonry, closure of canal vaults, formation of a chimney. Installing the upper flap.

33-34 rows. Solid masonry with the formation of a chimney.

35 row. Construction of the first layer of chimney masonry.

Potential difficulties and problems

Inexperienced craftsmen do not use a frame made of wooden beams and a plumb line that leads to deviation of walls from vertical.

If during the construction process was found skewed walls, the masonry should be disassembled and transferred.

After the end of the work and natural drying, the mini-oven is started to be heated with small portions of firewood.

At the same time, the furnace walls cracked due to the fact that shrinkage processes are taking place in the heating structure. To eliminate cracks, dilute the solution and cover the seams.

Incorrectly seated door fasteners can lead to door displacement. To avoid door skew, it is not left open until the fasteners are fully sealed. If displacement is detected during construction, the rows are dismantled and the fasteners are repaired.

Useful video

A video in which a three-dimensional model is shown phased construction a small stove for a summer residence: for clarity, each row is painted with its own color.

Average rating: 2.14 out of 5.
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The advantages of the Russian stove can be enumerated for a long time: it warms and feeds, and provides a warm bed for sleeping. But in a small house there is not always enough space to accommodate a bulky structure. The stove-makers came up with a small copy - a mini-Russian stove built with their own hands is not inferior in function to a full-fledged design.

For those wishing to try themselves in the furnace business, we suggest considering one of the options for building a mini-stove with procedures and a description of technologies. If you get help experienced master, you can independently build a beautiful, efficient, useful heating unit that will last more than a dozen years.

In principle, a miniature stove does not differ from an ordinary Russian stove - it has a similar design, the same functions, and the same design. The main hallmark is the size: it takes up significantly less floor space due to the fact that the stove and the furnace are arranged and located next to each other.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe floor area that the structure occupies is usually no more than 1 mx 1.3 m, but other options are possible, a little more or less. The height of the structure is the same as usual: the main part at the top is smoothly rebuilt into the overtube and ends with a pipe that goes into the overlap.

Both the large cooking chamber and the stove are actively used for cooking. A small firebox melts quickly enough, therefore it is used in summer, when heating of the whole house is not needed. On the burners, you can easily place 2-3 pots at once, and if a large oven is heated, then bake bread.

The stove also stays hot for a long time, so it can be used to warm up or just keep breakfast or lunch warm.

A feature of the compact stove is the preservation of two fireboxes, which are used with the same activity. But they are often located on two opposite sides - in this case, a free approach will be required both from the front and from the back.

It must be remembered that a mini-copy does not differ in its hazard level from a large Russian stove, therefore, during construction, it is also necessary to insulate the foundation and nearby surfaces that are prone to fire. Walls, wood plots the floor, the edges of the opening in the ceiling are sheathed with metal or asbestos sheets.

Difficulties may arise for those wishing to build a couch - of course, the mini-version does not imply a full-fledged place for rest, the occupied area is too small. However, a niche for drying can be built in, as well as a small hot water boiler

DIY construction technology

In everyday life, there are many options for mini-constructions that bear various names. Often they are called simply Russian stoves or "housekeepers". If you plan to build a heating facility yourself, then it is better to stop just at the construction of a Russian mini-oven - it is made easier and faster.

The first two stages are universal and suitable for the construction of any Russian stove. Starting from the 3rd stage, we present development by A. Emshanov - an excellent example of a compact and multifunctional mini-oven.

Stage # 1 - preparing tools

Even the simplest masonry requires a special oven tool. Despite the apparent primitiveness of the devices, each of them has a clear purpose. Let's list the main tools that are best prepared in advance.

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A small brick oven is sometimes quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it all the time. It will allow you to quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this and instructions on the rules for manufacturing will be offered. You can also watch the video in this article and select the desired modification.

Mini ovens and their features

Small brick ovens for dachas have their own characteristics, before making a final decision, it is worth familiarizing yourself with them.

The compactness of a brick structure or device is considered the main condition for a small room;
An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses are built of wood, which dries quickly in the sun and, if hit, the suit can quite flare up like a match. Among other things, the chimney and the device itself must be airtight, they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxidethat gets inside can lead to rather sad consequences;
The stove, which is placed in the summer cottage in the winter, must withstand without kindling for a long enough time and not get damp at the same time;
Warming up and quick kindling of the appliance, the spread of heat is also the most important condition for a stove of this type, because when it rains or at the end of difficult work, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
Long-term preservation of heat is an extremely necessary moment if you go to a house with an overnight stay;
It is almost impossible to do without a hob in a country house, especially if the electricity is periodically turned off in the village and there is no gas supply;
Also, an important factor is the fuel used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be melted with various options - brushwood, coal, wood or household waste;
It is desirable that the oven be able to mount a hot water supply register;
The simplicity of the design of the heating device allows you to fold and install it on your own, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of the masters in this regard are not cheap;
An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform a room, or bring it into general design a kind of gray spot.

Brick stoves

A small brick oven for a summer residence is used quite often.

But when installing, you will need to take into account the following points:

The stove can be installed in such a way that it distributes heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace has been removed correctly and the valve has been installed, it is considered fireproof, but a solid foundation will need to be created for this structure, which will be isolated from the foundation of the walls. it bath condition, if you do not comply with it, then the masonry can lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it can begin to pull the base of the furnace;

Attention: Do not forget that such stoves do not like long downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for the heat transfer to be maximized after a period when it was not used, several drying furnaces need to be carried out without significant loads. In each of them, we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

It is due to the fact that the brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are mounted in the country house only if they live in the house most of the time and there is a possibility of holding a firebox;
Residents of private houses consider useful and real only those buildings that are made of bricks. At the same time, heating devices made of other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special comfort and a unique atmosphere. And what is more important - they are multifunctional. Furnace professionals have developed a huge variety of models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installing a small oven

A small brick oven with your own hands is installed without any problems.

There are two options here:

First option, you are just making an oven with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a rather heat-intensive structure;
Second optionif you do not have enough funds and do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal stove and simply brick it to increase the heat capacity.

Attention: In the first option, your building will take up more space, and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials required for the work

You will need:

Twenty liters of mud;
Boards;
About sixty bricks;
Blower door;
Cast iron stove;
Furnace door;
Lattice;
Fireclay brick.

The size of a small stove is 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is placed on the edge or flat. This type of oven perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation is not a prerequisite... The floor should be made of thick, sturdy planks that are well anchored.

Such a stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has a more functional ability and a heating part, in which the cooking part is provided. It also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace is erected without any problems and within 24 hours.

At the very beginning, you need to melt the stove with paper and chips, but do not take the logs, because with sharp temperature changes, cracks can form in the solution. This will subsequently lead to smoke or incorrect air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dry out properly. This usually takes about a week.

Masonry mix

Everything can be done by hand. Then the price will be much lower. It is quite possible to use several compositions in the masonry. What to choose is up to you.

So:

For masonry bricks use shlit-sand, cement mortar... For example, screening instead of sand for the mixture is used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or more rows of masonry. If ляется is added for the M400 cement grade, then for the screed, the screenings must be mixed in a ratio of 1/6;
A mixture of sand and clay is a little more difficult to prepare, because it will take much longer. In order for lumps of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remained in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that small lumps do not remain;
The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - here it all depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked with a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without problems, leaving no traces, and in its density it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How is the stove made

How to make a small brick stove now we will consider in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build a stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Fireproof material must be used for the combustion part. It will also withstand the burning of coal. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is the most practical and durable.

We choose a suitable place for a mini-stove, and instead of it we put roofing material, film, glassine or hydrosol. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
On the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter), it is required to pour and level the sand;
On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After that, we align all the bricks at one level so that they are strictly in a horizontal position;
A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can start installing the blower door. It is imperative that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We fix it with a wire, after which you can safely proceed to laying the next one;
Fireclay brick is used for the third row of a mini-stove, after which a grate is installed. It is mounted above the blower only when the third brick row is fully formed;
We make the next one out of bricks, but we lay them on the edge; in the middle of the chimney, it is necessary to lay supports for internal partitions. The back wall of the stove is laid with a slight protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called kick bricks;
After that, we install the furnace door. Again, before proceeding with the installation of the door, it must be wrapped with a cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is fixed with wire and fixed with several stones for a while. The first fits in the back, and the second on top of the door;
Also, for the reliability of fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, which is twisted and the ends are laid in order;

The fifth row is made flat, here we must check the contour of the last row. But the sixth row fits with an edge. Then we rub the walls of the large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
Lay the brick on the 7th row flat. Next, we expose a couple of bricks with an edge and proceed to the back wall;
When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, then make sure that it overlaps the fire door, over which it will end. It was at this time that we install a beveled brick above the firebox so that the flame is directed to the center of the stove burner;
We lay out the soaked asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have different coefficients of thermal expansion, we do not put the slab on clay. After that, you can go to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the doors are kept open;
When working with the next, the formation of a chimney will be required, which will expand from the back. To make a stove of just such a plan, there is no need for a packed tube, which will expand at the top, since this type of pipe will lead to a change in the center of gravity. There are various chimney schemes. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove must have a straight version;
When working with the next row, do not forget about inserting a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
Thus, the pipes will dock with the metal one. If the smoke goes to the side, then it must be covered with several brick rows;
After that, we take out the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from the dirt that has accumulated during construction work;
White oven. We protect the metal part of the furnace itself and its walls with foil. So that it does not turn yellow over time, milk and a small amount of blue must be added to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, special attention is paid to the joints of the bricks and the cast-iron surface;
Carefully close the gaps between the first row and the floor. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not wake up;
After, along the edging of the building, we nail the plinth, which will protect the stove from the raining of sand. We nail it flush and tightly to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
As soon as you carry out the first fire with chips and paper, we leave all doors and burners in open positionso that everything is thoroughly dry.

A small brick oven for a summer residence is made quite quickly and will last a long time. The main thing is to look at the photo and select the option you want. The instruction will not let you make mistakes.