home > The elements > We are building a country house - economically, independently, efficiently. Do-it-yourself log house: how to build a house with step-by-step instructions Do-it-yourself country house from a bar

We are building a country house - economically, independently, efficiently. Do-it-yourself log house: how to build a house with step-by-step instructions Do-it-yourself country house from a bar

Country houses over time, they become morally obsolete and begin to seem cramped. But many are in no hurry to demolish them - they are expanding at the expense of extensions, rebuilding. It is also popular to build a new house instead of the existing one. The dwellings of the old post offices are all chopped, and the modern ones are made mainly of timber. If you build with your own hands, yourself, without involving workers, then the timber standard size 150 × 150 mm is not suitable - it is too heavy, especially when wet. I decided to do something simpler - to build a house from dry timber (atmospheric drying) with a cross section of 150 × 1001 and, after the walls have shrunk, insulate it from the outside with basalt wool of the same thickness. I try to adhere to SNiPs, and they say that for our middle band even a 150 mm layer of wood is not enough, you cannot do without additional insulation.

To make construction not too expensive, do not use local materials and take into account existing conditions and traditions.

Stage 1 - Preparation and pouring of the foundation

Before choosing the type of foundation, structure and materials for its manufacture, it is necessary to study the geological conditions. You need to know exactly the composition of the soil, determine the level of groundwater. And the most important thing is to see how the foundations of houses that have been here for a long time are arranged. For example, it turned out that in our area (Ryazan region, Kasimovsky district), foundations are made mainly of white stone - limestone (1). As a rule, without reinforcement and at the same time - shallow laying. And there are reasons for that: the soil is sandy, which means it is not "heaving". It is very far to the water, and the houses are mostly wooden huts.

We begin the work on the construction of the foundation by digging trenches and removing the fertile layer (2). We spill the emerging sand for compaction with water. We fill up the stone in the trenches and lay two reinforcement rods each with bandaging in the corners. It seems that reinforcement in the lower and upper parts of the foundation tape will not be superfluous (3).

You can, of course, try to order ready-made concrete with delivery by a mixer truck, but in our area this is unrealistic - there is no offer. And he could not have entered the garden. But the main reason is that ready-made concrete is expensive, while free sand lies right under your feet, and ordering a stone car from us is cheaper than in Moscow - an empty car. By the way, if money is really bad, nothing prevents you from saving money on a stone, for example, typing it on the river.

The very first kneading by hand on a sheet of iron showed the futility of this occupation in the 21st century. There were two options - to use a concrete mixer or to refuse construction. We choose the first one. This is how the SM-160 concrete mixer from the Kraton company appeared at the facility (4).

And the process has begun (5) - just have time to deliver cement. It is convenient to move the concrete mixer along the trench, and to fill in the solution, it was necessary to adapt a sheet lying underfoot (6). So that it does not bend, we substitute supports from board scraps (7).

It is better not to cover the plastic casing where the engine is located during operation, so as not to block the outlet of air that cools the engine. A plastic wrap can be applied after - to protect against precipitation.

The concrete mixer is actively used to prepare the solution, in which we put (and sometimes just drop) stones (8). In this way, the tape was poured to ground level. Above, we spread the tape from the same stone in a thicker solution (9).

Before reaching the top, we install a reinforcing cage similar to the bottom one (10). A smaller stone was required to complete the masonry (11).

We give time for the almost finished foundation to stand before building a house (12). His appearance is not very even, but the surface can always be finished - plaster using a concrete mixer (by the way, almost all houses in the village are like this), or covered with decorative panels.

In the process of work, we managed to save a lot - no formwork was needed, local, very cheap materials were used - sand and stone. To summarize, it turns out that all costs (including the cost of a concrete mixer) turned out to be less than the cost of ready-made concrete (which there was nowhere to take) and formwork.

But, unfortunately, this will not work out in every locality. For example, in a swamp near Moscow, it would be necessary to make a spatial frame from reinforcement, construct formwork and pour concrete.

Stage 2 - Assembling a house from a bar

PREPARATORY STAGE

For the construction of the box of the house, a bar of 150 × 100 mm was used, the wall from which it was subsequently planned to insulate. The bar lay in the pile for two years. During this time, of course, it dried up and became much lighter. Some samples quite noticeably "led", mostly twisted by the "propeller".

Such a bar, unlike a square one in section (150 × 150), is not always sawn from the middle part of the trunk, radial sawing is rare - and this is a reason for deviation from a rectangular section during drying and for twisting with a screw.

However, the desire to deal with dry material outweighs all the difficulties of building a home.

PRODUCTION OF NAGELS

As known, the right houses collected from a bar on wooden dowels. For their manufacture, trimming boards left after performing any work, for example, sheathing devices for the roof (13), are suitable.

The smaller the tree rings on wood, the better - the hardness is higher. We take the trimmings and end them on one side on the corresponding saw (14). Then we put a stop and saw to size (15), in our case 120 mm. The result is neat planks and firewood (16).

We pass the planks through the band saw (17) - we get a box of sticks square section (eighteen). It remains to sharpen them with a hatchet (so that there are square platforms) on both sides - and several hundred dowels are prepared (19).

MOSS PREPARATION

To assemble the house, you will need a mezhventsovy heater. "Advanced" builders usually use a roll, which is sold in any construction market. It is very simple to work with him: unrolled the tape - and put the timber.

Moss is another matter. Firstly, it costs nothing, and secondly, it is a natural antiseptic. There is a lot of information on this topic, but nowhere was there a negative feedback on the use of moss. It is recommended to use white or red peat moss (20). The first, when dried, turns into a very fragile mass, and the second consists of long stems with herringbone-like leaves and quite tough. Fresh moss that has lain no more than two weeks is best. My moss was in plastic bags for a week in a slightly damp state and in hot weather - nothing happened to it.

Moss smells of iodine, almost like the sea - undoubtedly, this once again testifies to its benefits.

MANUFACTURE OF CROSSBOWS

For a classic log house, it is necessary to prepare jambs - for each opening, be it a window or a door.

We choose an even timber, preferably without knots or with a minimum number of them. For work, you can build a makeshift workbench right next to the pile of lumber (21). Having made rip cuts with a circular saw with a parallel stop (22), we can easily cut out the excess material with a chisel (23).

It is very difficult to make jambs according to all the rules, not every carpenter knows how. Therefore, for windows, we use a very simplified version that is available to everyone. IN window opening there will be only two vertical jambs, and the horizontal connection will be carried out by the factory-made window block itself, quite massive. (In rural huts, the window opening is usually "ossified" on all four sides and bindings are inserted into it.)

A “quarter” is required for the installation of the block, but even here it is really possible to simplify the matter - instead of sampling the material (shown by shading in photo 24), you can glue the bar, having previously sharpened the plane. You get the same result.

With a doorway, this simplification will not work - all four elements are needed. But it is quite possible to simplify the very shape of the products.

In the lower beam (25), which will serve as a threshold, we choose the same grooves as in the vertical jambs so that it also fits on the spikes of the opening. But here it would be necessary to hammer with a chisel across the fibers - a very thankless task. We proceed as follows: we make cuts with a circular saw, setting the required disc exit and fixing the parallel stop (26), then we drill a hole with a diameter of 25 mm with a feather drill, as under the pins (27). And finally, with a reciprocating saw we cut an even rectangle across the fibers (28).

Professional carpenters in the doorstep with a chisel cut down two rectangular nests, and at the bottom of the vertical jambs they make reciprocal protrusions, sawing and cutting off excess material with a chisel. We will drill the holes, as under the dowels, and we will hammer in two dowels (29). Drill the same holes at the bottom of the jambs (30).

So far we are not doing anything with the upper horizontal bar, but we nail a plank to the threshold - an imitation of a “quarter”. The result is a greatly simplified, but still fulfilling its function, the design of the doorway (31). In the future we will plan it and glue it in “quarters”.

A REQUIRED TOOL

The following power tools were involved in the construction of the timber box: constantly - Makita 5704R circular saw and Makita 6408 hammerless drill, occasionally - Makita 1923H electric planer and reciprocating saw Skil 4900 (32). Hand tool: water hose, square, plumb line, tape measure, hammer, sledgehammer, ax, chisel.

We use a Makita 5704R circular saw to cut the timber. We saw a beam in two times - draw a line along a square, cut it off, then turn it over and cut it off again. The line can be transferred to the opposite side with a square or drawn and sawed "by eye".

With the same saw, we make grooves for the corner joint and the root spike. When performing the latter, the cutting depth was slightly lacking - it was necessary to make several movements with a hand hacksaw.

ASSEMBLING A HOUSE FROM A BAR WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

To work with a bar near the foundation, it is advisable to put a workbench, but you can also get by with a pile of lumber approximately 850 mm high (33).

FIRST CROWN

I had to tinker with laying the first crown, because you need to have a flat horizontal surface of the foundation. By the way, it is better to provide it immediately during laying (or filling).

It is customary to connect the first crown “into the floor of a tree”. This knot is easily done with a circular saw - we cut across and along (34). Where there is not enough cutting depth, we make several movements with a hand hacksaw (35), then cut off the excess with a chisel - it's done (36). By the way, this is the only crown where nails were taken to connect.

Photo (37) shows that the crown is on the lining. There are gaps between them, subsequently air vents will be organized there. In our area, it is customary to make them in the wall, and not in the foundation. This is much simpler, and the wind speed at altitude is greater than at the ground, therefore, the ventilation of the underground will be more intense. It is planned to install floor beams on the pads (they are wider than the walls) to distribute the load on the foundation.

Cover the first crown and lining with the Senezh antiseptic. According to my observations, the wood of the element lying on the waterproofing is destroyed the fastest. In this case, these are lining boards, and not the first crown. The lining, if ever the need arises, will be much easier to replace than the first crown.

SECOND AND FOLLOWING CROWNS

From the second crown, a monotonous work of the same type begins. In the corners, the timber must be connected to a root spike, a simple abutment of the bars is unacceptable. With a circular saw, we end the bar in two cuts using a square (38) - the cutting line is transferred to the opposite side. Making a root spike is easy (39). If there is not enough disk output, we use a hand saw. Choosing a groove is even easier (40).

Note. In all spike-groove joints, it is necessary to provide a place for laying the heat-insulating material (my gap is 4-5 mm). You can't just let the tree touch the tree.

We pre-set the required cutting depth.

Note. At the sawMakita 5704R disc output value changes quickly and easily- by loosening the lever. It is very convenient to use. If in carpentry the usual procedure is as follows: set any parameter of the tool- and you process a series of parts, then for carpenters it is often the other way around: dragged a bar onto a workbench- and adjust the cutting depth for different knots.

I was very pleased with the thin circular disk - it noticeably reduces the effort expended.

The safety guard rises so smoothly during the cut that you don't notice it.

If the length of the wall is longer than the length of the bar, you will have to splic it along the length. At a long bar we make cuts on both sides, cut off the excess with a chisel and get a thorn in the central part (41). Since there is a thorn, then a groove is needed. But I have already said that cutting a tree across with a chisel is not my method, no one needs such "feats"! We drill a through hole (I drilled on both sides due to the insufficient length of the drill) (42), cut off the excess from the workpiece (43), mark and easily chop along the fibers with a chisel (44). By the way, if you wish, you can change the order - cut the workpiece to size, and then drill a through hole.

Connect the two beams (45) and fill the gaps with moss (46).

Note. In the crown from which the opening begins, it is convenient to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. When cutting, the saw will not be able to complete them completely; you will have to chisel with a chisel at the very end. In the photo (47) it can be seen that the beams are spiked, and the thresholds of the doorways lie as templates.

And now the second crown with all the joints (corners and splices along the length) is placed on the first, now it is necessary to mark the position of the dowels that will connect the bars. Using a square, we make vertical pencil marks on the upper and lower rails (48) - in those places where the installation of the dowels is planned. We turn over the upper bar. From the vertical line, transfer the marking to the center of the bar (49). Then, to a given depth (more than half of the length of the dowel), we drill holes (50) and hammer the dowels (51) into them with a hammer.

Note. Hammerless drillMakita 6408 with a power of 530 W successfully copes with drilling holes for pins. It is also convenient for the additive of furniture fittings. I had to drill holes with a diameter of 2 mm for self-tapping screws - the absence of beating of the cartridge allowed this to be done.

ABOUT NAGELS

From the point of view of the engineer, a round dowel should be driven into a round hole. But carpenters think differently: a square-shaped dowel is easier to make, and it holds more firmly. And most importantly - a short dowel does not prevent the house from settling. The fact is that holding a drill in hand, it is impossible to drill a perfectly vertical hole. When the next bar is installed on slightly protruding pointed pins, it staggers a little, and is more or less firmly installed after being set down with a sledgehammer. Such pins work only for a cut and guarantee complete settlement (even if they are supplied with a slight deviation from the vertical) due to the drying of the timber (if it is wet) and the compaction of the insulation between the joints, without the formation of cracks. I have the size of the pins in the section - 22 × 22 mm, and the diameter of the first drill - 25 mm (52).

I once watched the workers drill timber wall with a long drill (by the way, it is not cheap!) and hammered in the same long round dowels, similar to rake cuttings. There was no question of verticality from the holes. After that, the house, instead of precipitation, "hung" on these cuttings, and huge gaps formed between the beams. Such is the "rake" ...

INSTALLATION OF MOSS AND PACKLES

After hammering in the dowels, lay out tow and moss (53). Moreover, the tow - with fibers across the bar, and we simply throw the moss on it (54). Moss is almost dry, but not dust.

Hanging tow will be convenient to caulk, and the moss does not need advertising.

After installing all the bars of the crown on the pins, laying tow and moss and settling with a sledgehammer, the structure is still wobbling due to gaps in the corner joints. Into these gaps (they do not exceed 4-5 mm here) we tightly hammer the moss with a spatula (55) and a narrow metal strip (56). It is difficult to push white moss - it crumbles, but mixed with red stems it fits perfectly into cavities.

Note. Why do we only put moss in the corners? First, moss- excellent antiseptic. The house will stand for a long time without finishing, and rainwater will flow in the corners. Secondly, if it becomes necessary to plan a bar in the corner (57), the moss will not become a hindrance, while the tow will inevitably wrap around the plane drum and jam it. I had such a case, while the drive belt broke.

After that, not only did the corners become unsold and warm, but the strength of the joints increased dramatically - stronger than on nails!

Note. After the end of the working day, it is better to cover the corner joints from possible rain (58).

ALIGNING THE BARS

Photo (59) shows that one bar is higher than the other, and they must be equal in height. But you should not immediately take up the plane - everything is quite capable of solving a blow with a sledgehammer.

We use the plane in the last place - where the obstacle to the laying of the next crown is clearly visible, for example, if it is necessary to knock down the "humps" (they are often formed near the knots) or level the "screw". Rigid timber for better fit, you can waste a lot of time. I believe that tow and moss - optimal solution crevice problems.

CROWN BY CROWN

We lay the next crown so that the joints in the corners alternate. Internal bearing wall needs to be connected to the longitudinal wall with the same standard connection (60) - through one crown. As usual, we mark and drill holes for the pins, but in a staggered manner relative to the lower rims (61), lay out tow and moss (62). When all the bars are in place, seal the corner joints (63).

We put each new crown, mark (64), drill holes (65), hammer in the pins (66), lay out the inter-crown insulation (67). And the house grows ...

It is customary to do the joining of the beams along the length (68) "at a distance".

OPENINGS

When the house has grown to the level of installation of window blocks (here is the seventh crown, from the future floor to the window sill - 800 mm), we mark the window openings in accordance with the drawing. The minimum (overall) width of the opening is chosen as the width of the window block + the dimensions of the jambs without taking into account the depth of the groove (2 × 70 mm) + four sealed gaps (two per side: between the wall and the jamb, as well as between the jamb and the window block - only 15 mm ). Total: the width of the opening is equal to the width of the block (for example, 1170 mm) plus 155 mm. According to these dimensions, we install a crown with window openings - thorns are pre-cut in the bars, as in the case of doorways (69).

In the following crowns, there are no spikes in the beams yet, but the internal dimensions are respected.

Usually in the openings, through several beams, a solid bar is placed to connect the wall and level the opening. I decided to lay out all the openings from the "short stacks" (70) without jumpers - there is nothing to translate an even beam, and there is still no use from what was done during drying. On the "shorty" and went all not very even, but dry timber. In this case, it is necessary to constantly control the openings along the plumb line; it will not hurt to check the straightness of the wall, consisting of piers (71).

The corner and the T-shaped structure hold themselves, and it is better to temporarily fasten a separate partition with slats (72) - it is very easy to fill it up.

Note. Where there will be spikes of the opening and the cutting line with a circular saw will pass (this is a few centimeters from the edge), do not put tow, otherwise it will wrap around the disc (73). Subsequently, it is easy to knock it out from the ends.

When the crown, on which the openings are completed, has been previously laid (without pins and tow), remove the upper beams of the openings. They are all light shorties. Then we make cuts with a saw for the thorns on which the jambs are put on. The disc is set to the required depth, a parallel stop is installed to indent from the edge - the work does not take much time (74). Directly in the wall, the "circular" will not be able to cut through the timber to the end, but on a workbench it is very simple.

In the initial crown of the opening we cut down the thorns for orientation and assembly control - it is more convenient to "throw" a plumb line in the opening. There is no need to do this in the final crown of the opening, all the same, then you will have to cut the spikes in all the bars.

Collecting openings without a connection to the very top, and even using for this "short stacks" from the beams used during drying, is not an easy task.

If the trim is short and light, you can try on the workpiece before cutting the spike (or groove) - suddenly, a beam that deviates to the left will fall to the right, and then you end up with a flat wall. If both lean to the same direction, the "leaning tower of Pisa" is quite possible (75).

So you have to either shave off the "screw" with a plane, or go "step" - just such a case is illustrated in the photo (76). In addition, the gap (77) was eliminated - it also could not do without a plane.

The main thing is not to forget to constantly monitor the verticality of the openings with a plumb line.

INSTALLATION OF CROSSES

When the top crown has been laid, it's time to install jambs on all openings. This will significantly increase the strength, otherwise some free-standing piers are easily swayed by hand. In each opening, the lower beam has a full-fledged spike, and the upper one is cut with a saw in the right place. It remains to attach the guide (78), set the required cutting depth and cut with the circular saw (79). From the ends, along a plumb line, we draw two lines - the size of the thorn, and we cut down all the excess with a chisel (80).

The width of the spike is less than the width of the groove by the amount of two gaps for the thermal insulation material. Now the jambs are installed only to increase strength and ensure normal settlement, so the spikes can be left wider, and then finished off during finishing.

Spacers (81) are temporarily placed between the jambs.

RESULT AND PRICES

If you plan to do frame extension (for example, a veranda at the entrance), then it is better to put the topmost crown at the time of the construction of the extension. So in my case, one less crown was laid.

It remains to cover the box with a temporary roof (82), close the openings and wait for the next construction season.

CONCLUSIONS

My foundation turned out to be significantly cheaper analogs. A dump truck of stone in our area costs 4000 rubles. The sand does not cost anything - a friend on a tractor drove two carts. The main expenses were for cement - 48 bags of 200 rubles each. that is, 9600 rubles. The fittings were bought in a retail store - 8200 rubles. Total - 21 800 rubles.

When the timber lay in the form of a pile about two meters wide and about a meter high, no one believed that this material would be enough for a house. But twenty bars even remained. To be precise, a house measuring 6 × 10 m (of which the timber part is 6 × 7.5 m) took about 7.5 cubic meters of timber 150 × 100 mm. In 2009 prices (due to the crisis, they decreased relative to 2008), it turns out: 7.5 × 5400 rubles. \u003d RUB 40,500

For a 150 × 150 mm bar, the amount would have to be multiplied by 1.5, but that's not all. One cannot cope with such a bar (we do not take weightlifters into account), which means that it would not have done without assistants. How much their labor costs - I do not know.

To assemble an economy class house, free dowels and moss were also needed. And my friends supplied me with tow after the construction was completed.

It turns out that the basis of the future house - a lumber box, standing on the foundation, cost quite inexpensively (I would even say cheap) at 62,300 rubles.

The work required a small set of tools that are versatile and useful for other tasks. The concrete mixer and the circular saw played an important role.

Working alone and subject to good weather, it is quite possible to lay one crown of a house with a partition in a day and a half. The weight of the material allows: a timber is not a freshly sawn trunk for you (although not an "inflatable log", even if the timber is dry).

Such construction does not require special skills. It turns out that to have a modern country house in the village is a very real goal, it would be land ...

Based on materials from the magazine All for construction and repair - spring 2010

ORDER QUALITY AND CHEAP SEEDS AND OTHER GOODS FOR HOME AND COTTAGE. PRICES ARE BOTTLE. CHECKED! JUST LOOK FOR YOURSELF AND BE AMAZED. THERE ARE REVIEWS. GO \u003e\u003e\u003e : Log cottages - several ...

  • Country house from the trailer - photo: House from the trailer - photo ...
  • : Today in the heading "Country building" ...
  • : How to make an extension to the dacha ...

    • A suburban area is not only land with a vegetable garden and plantings. Many city dwellers come there for a good rest, so it is necessary to have a house on the site. Not all summer residents have the opportunity to build a comfortable house on six acres. Many people get out of this situation by choosing the option of building an economy class house.

    Inexperienced and novice summer residents are faced with the question of choosing cheap materials for construction. Below are examples of inexpensive and cozy country houses with illustrative photos.


    Where to start construction

    Any construction project starts with a plan on paper. A house outside the city is not intended for year-round living, but for the sake of comfort it requires familiarization with a typical project.

    Among the projects of country houses, the leading one is with an attic or an attic. This option allows you to abandon the construction on the farm building site. All inventory and tools are kept in the attic. In addition to such a house, you can add a veranda or terrace that serves as a dining room.

    The strip foundation is more time consuming and costly. The positive side of it is that it allows you to use the room under the floor as a basement.

    The next stage of preparation is the material of the "box" of the future construction. There are several types of inexpensive and reliable building materials:


    Frame-panel constructions

    The frame is mounted with a bar and sheathed with wooden boards of fiberboard or chipboard. Expanded polystyrene, glass wool or polystyrene is used as a heater. As a result, a house comes out with minimal costthat can be operated all year round.

    A house made of timber is distinguished by its durability. Construction work will be more expensive. When using cheap timber, there is a possibility of facing the problem of building shrinkage. As a result, cracks and gaps appear. The cobbled house will also have to be insulated.

    A clay house is the cheapest and easiest construction option. Building materials are right under your feet. The erection technique is similar to clay modeling.

    The downside is the construction process that is too time-consuming. It will take several seasons to build an earthen dwelling.

    The carriage is common among newcomers to summer residents. The best option for living in the summer or during the construction of a comfortable house.

    Frame construction

    The frame building belongs to the category of low-budget. It will not be difficult to build a country house with your own hands without the help of specialists. If everyone necessary materials ready, the term of work will last several weeks.


    To build a house you will need:

    • bars for the frame;
    • screws and corners;
    • wooden boards of chipboard or fiberboard;
    • insulation;
    • piles for the foundation.

    Stages of construction of a frame house

    At the marked places, piles are driven in the corners. Mounted concrete or brick supports under the joints of the walls. Then they cover them waterproofing material and tied with a channel.

    A lattice of beams is laid around the entire perimeter. Wooden logs are placed on top of it at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. All parts are fixed with corners and screws.

    Next, mount the vertical racks, firmly resting on the lattice. The finished frame is tied and attic logs are placed on top of it. Next comes the work of covering the frame with wooden slabs. At this stage, holes are left for windows and doors.

    Now you need to decide on the choice of a roof for a country house. Most summer residents choose gable and shed roofs. As an economy, the second option deserves more attention. When erecting a roof, do not forget about vapor barrier. The roof will be inexpensive sheets of corrugated board or ondulin.


    The outside cladding is made using siding. Before that, the outer walls are insulated with special materials. Instead of plastic windows, ordinary wooden ones without a glass unit are installed. This approach will significantly reduce the cost of construction.

    With the help of simple and simple tips the dacha dwelling will be ready for use in less than a month. Those who do not have enough time for construction can contact a construction company, where they will offer to build a house for a turnkey dacha at an affordable price.

    A few words about the interior

    No matter how the house looks from the outside, inside the summer cottage must meet all the requirements of our time. Gone are the days when the dwelling in the country was used for cooking and sleeping.

    Rest in the country - first of all, comfort and organization inside the house. There are many budget-friendly ways to satisfy your most desirable interior design solutions.

    Country - country style in the interior. Here you cannot do without cabinets and shelves covered with embroidered curtains. Crocheted napkins, tablecloths and rugs from old clothes will look good.


    Each person who has acquired a small plot of land for a summer cottage seeks to build a house in a short time, or a similar easy-to-build structure. To have a place to relax after a hard day's work, or to hide from inclement weather. Well, it's natural to get settled in everyday life. Of course, it is advisable to build a house to accommodate the whole family and guests who came for the weekend. The task is, of course, a daunting one, but quite doable if you have the accumulated savings for the construction of a country house, because a large amount of new building material will be required.

    If possible, you can hire hired workers to build this structure.

    It is clear that this will significantly add financial costs for your family, and if there is no such opportunity, you will have to build a country house with your own hands.

    Basically, the owners of summer cottages build their houses with their own hands in order to save money for hiring a construction team and invite relatives and friends to the construction site to help, which by itself reduces the cost of the construction process.

    Summer residents also sometimes use second-hand materials that can be purchased at half the price compared to market prices, but this will reduce the durability of the structure by half.

    When building his country house, the author decided not to save on the main material and buy everything on the construction market, so that it would last for a century and the house would stand for a long time, please the family and its guests with its comfort and aesthetic appearance.

    The main material for the construction was, of course, wood, which could be better and more beautiful than wood. The author bought bars and boards from a local sawmill, which turned out to be much cheaper than in a hardware store.

    Before starting construction, I pre-drilled wells for bearing pillars, inserted and filled in cement mortar... I strapped the posts with boards and left them for a day to dry the solution. Then he started building, step by step towards the cherished goal.

    And so now let's take a closer look at how he built his country house, and what he needed for this.

    Materials: board 30 mm, bar 100 to 100, bar 40 to 60, floorboard 50 mm, insulation, profiled sheet, rail, fiberboard.
    Tools: a circular saw, drill, drill, screwdriver, hammer, shovel, electric plane, angle, ruler, tape measure, circular saw.

    And so, first of all, he invited a neighbor and together they drilled wells to install poles.


    Then he installed the posts, and filled the holes with cement mortar.


    I made a screed at the bottom and at the top so that the pillars stood exactly, after a day after the solution had gained hardness, I proceeded to further construction.


    The author makes the top harness.


    Then it moves on to create the roof ridge.


















    Next, he makes the roof lathing.






    Shows the rafter attachment point.


    Remnants from sawing will also come in handy somewhere.


    Next, he proceeds to the installation of the roof from the profiled sheet.










    Then he moves on to the device of the floors of the house.














    So we got a place for storing boards from atmospheric precipitation.


    Prepares a batch of planks by loosening them on a circular saw.




    And he starts finishing the cornice.




    Sheathes the walls with boards, and seals the gaps between the boards with slats.


    Next, it moves on to the ceiling cladding.

    As you know, the comfort of staying in a suburban area largely depends on how cozy and comfortable the house will be. The question often arises of which house is better to build in the country, so that the cost of the project is democratic, and the result obtained is as good as possible. We will consider several basic options, but we will dwell on the option in detail frame house, since it is easiest to build it yourself.

    The main types of country houses

    To decide which of the options is most preferable for you, you should consider the features of each of them:

    Modular option This includes country houses from block containers, which are the easiest to build. You only need to build a strip or columnar foundation, and put a ready-made module on it with a crane. The disadvantages include the monotony of buildings and their small size, in addition, the price of the finished version is much higher than the one that is assembled independently.
    Frame house One of the most popular solutions due to a number of advantages, the main of which are: a very democratic cost of the project, ease of work, assembly instructions may seem complicated, but if you figure it out, then all questions will disappear by themselves. In addition, using this option, you can erect a structure of any size and configuration.
    Timber structure Another widespread option, which is distinguished by its attractive appearance and environmental friendliness, due to which it fits into the dacha environment as best as possible. Assembling a building requires certain qualifications, so it is better to involve specialists, especially since the cost of the structure is quite high, and any mistakes are fraught with considerable costs.
    Structures of bricks and blocks These materials are most often used in the construction of capital structures. The advantages include strength and durability, the disadvantages are the need to erect a massive base, the laboriousness of construction (at least the skills of a bricklayer are needed) and the rather high cost of the project. In addition, many country houses are associated with a tree, so such options are not even considered initially.

    Features of building a house using frame technology

    Consider how to build an inexpensive summer cottage with your own hands.

    It is very important to prepare well for work; the following activities can be attributed to this stage:

    • To begin with, a specific project is selectedto clearly understand the scope of work and the required amount of materials.
    • Further, all the required materials are purchased, in this case, you should purchase everything with a small margin, since the actual consumption often exceeds the planned one.
    • One more important question - purchase of all the necessary tools: from shovels and hammers to concrete mixers and chainsaws. If there is no electricity on the site, then renting a diesel generator for a summer residence will help solve the problem.

    Foundation

    Without a doubt, a very important part of the work, since the strength and durability of the entire structure directly depends on the base, any subsidence leads to cracks and even destruction of walls and ceilings.

    You can build one of the following options:

    • Columnar foundation.
    • Tape base.
    • Slab foundation.

    Each of these options has its pros and cons, we will consider the tape type of the base:

    • First of all, a trench is dug, the depth and width of which depends on the type of soil and the weight of the future structure. Usually the width is 30-40 centimeters.
    • It is better to pour a gravel cushion on the bottom, which will also carry a drainage function, the walls of the pit should be even and not crumble.
    • A formwork is placed on top, but if the outer part of the base is laid out from demobler blocks, then the formwork can be minimal, the main thing is that the level of the foundation is even, this will facilitate the masonry work later.
    • After the foundation has solidified (at least a week should pass), you can proceed to further work. The upper end of the foundation is closed with glass insulation or two layers of roofing material, this will prevent moisture penetration into the building through the capillaries in the concrete.

    Advice!
    Do not forget about the ventilation holes in, the entire space must be ventilated, otherwise mold will begin to form on the structures over time.

    Basement overlap

    Consideration of the question of how to build a country house continues with such a stage as the installation of a basement floor, this stage of work is carried out as follows:

    • For the overlap device, a bar with a cross section of at least 100x150 mm is used, more is possible, it all depends on the design features.
    • The elements are connected to each other either by threaded rods or special screws with a diameter of 10-12 mm and a length of 25-30 cm.

    Advice!
    On the lower edge of the strapping, you can attach a rough floor in any convenient way and lay foam or mineral wool on it, so you can.

    Walls

    We are considering how to build a country house ourselves, but in fact we cannot do without several assistants, especially at the stage of installing the frame of future walls, because it is necessary to hold each element and carefully adjust its position before fastening.

    The work is carried out as follows:

    • The fastening of the elements is best done using modern fasteners: corners of perforated strips, brackets and mounting plates. In addition to convenience and high speed of work, these elements guarantee the reliability of all connections, the main thing is to choose the right fasteners.
    • The racks are set to the width of the insulation, so you simplify further work. Particular attention should be paid to the perfectly accurate positioning of the corner pieces.
    • From below, the elements are attached to the harness, another beam is laid on top and the system is fastened, to increase the strength, cross-bars are also used.
    • Next, you should take care of strengthening the structure, most often this is achieved by using struts and braces. With their help, the rigidity increases significantly.

    Rafter system

    Another important stage at which the future roof is being erected, within this stage the following work is carried out:

    • First of all, a detailed design of the system is drawn up so that you can imagine what work will have to be done.

    • Based on the scheme, materials and fasteners are purchased, boards can be used for small roofs, and timber for more massive ones.
    • The assembly is carried out carefully, each element is carefully attached, at the end the whole system is connected to each other.

    Sheathing and roofing

    Outside, the walls are sheathed as follows:

    • A board with a thickness of 25 mm can be used and is best fixed at a 45 degree angle for best strength.
    • You can also use a simpler option - moisture resistant plates, so the work will be done much faster.
    • For laying the roof, a sheathing device is required, while its type depends on what kind of covering will be used. For slate and ondulin, a crate will be required, and for a soft roof, metal tiles and other similar options, a continuous flooring of moisture-resistant materials.

    • Fastening is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, this process is usually simple.

    Inner lining

    Last of all, a heater is laid, which is closed with a vapor-waterproofing material.

    The cladding can be different:

    • Can be used wooden lining or decorative panels of the most varied kind.
    • Another option is to attach moisture-resistant plasterboard or other durable materials, which can later be putty and painted or finished in any other way.

    We hope you have decided which house to build in the country, and which technologies to use. This is just a short work plan, since the description of any of the stages will take a whole article (all work is described separately in other articles on the portal).

    Conclusion

    A house in the country should be not only attractive from the outside, but also practical from the inside. Therefore, do not be lazy and find a really high-quality and well-thought-out project. The video in this article will clearly show the features of performing some work.


















    Of course, it is better to build correctly right away than to redo it later. Well, and if you are still engaged in improvements, then do it thoughtfully, so as not to turn the reconstruction into an endless process.

    We first evaluate any structure by its appearance. And after all, as often happens (especially for old-built country houses): the structure seems to be of good quality, but it looks unsightly. So what is it - to break everything and build again? Or still try to do something less costly? For example, apply techniques that allow you to create the optical effect of resizing an object in width and height, combining this with a cosmetic facade finish and minor design refinement ( fig. one).

    Figure: 1. A slight modification of the house allows you to change the perception of the size of the object in terms of width and height.

    This can be done by different orientations of the architectural elements of the building in the vertical and horizontal directions. Suppose we have to "stretch" the roof in width, and "raise" the frame up. To do this, we will "lengthen" the existing window in both directions (at the same time it will be brighter in the attic) and install a gable tide (the protection of the facade from rain will improve). You can install a ridge ebb, which is also structurally justified. And the attic window will improve the ventilation conditions of the attic and, to some extent, its lighting.

    Thus, all these decorative innovations not only improve the appearance of the building, but also turn out to be useful in a functional sense. On the contrary, the main facade of the log house should be made visually higher. The simplest solution is not to trim the corners with boards, but paint them in lighter colors. The actual height of the log house can also be masked by planting trees and shrubs, and installing a fence of an appropriate height.
    There are many ways to influence the appearance of a building in the arsenal of designers and architects. It is necessary to select the most effective and simple ones.

    However, our main goal is to reduce construction errors to a minimum. Can this be achieved? Even with a whole statistical bank of errors, we cannot use this information effectively without an integrated approach. It is necessary to systematize errors, and on the basis of this, develop rules that should be followed during the construction process. In other words, it is necessary to regulate the requirements for each part of the building under construction. Their implementation will prevent gross mistakes and help to look "where it is necessary". A list of such requirements can be formed not only on the basis of building codes, but also on the basis of survey results, common sense considerations, taking into account the materials and tools used.

    However, requirements are only half the battle. Another critical component of success is the control system. After all, country houses are often erected non-professional builders... It is for them that a systematic approach is needed, which will allow you to build efficiently, quickly and at no extra cost.

    An example is the construction of a country house from a bar - the most common and relatively inexpensive material.

    Foundation

    The construction of any house starts from the foundation. The most widespread are shallow strip reinforced concrete foundations. They are simple and technologically advanced to manufacture, reliable, well protect the underground from cold, snow and wind, and are quite versatile for almost any type of soil.

    In cross-section, the foundation consists of underground and aboveground parts, which are poured with concrete separately. For example, when building on clay soils (in the Moscow region, their area is about 70%), the concrete of the foundation soles is poured directly into a trench dug in the ground, and then formwork panels are mounted and the basement is poured.

    Arrangement of the foundation begins with its marking. Many developers at this stage “fence the garden”, believing that they cannot do without castoff. Of course, cast-off is needed when building large construction projects. However, when it comes to a 6 × 9 m rectangle, shouldn't we mark it out in an easier way? And horizontal marks can be easily obtained using a hydro level without a level: after all, the area is insignificant. Ripping - this is extra labor costs, additional costs of lumber, and subsequently - inconvenience and hindrances during the installation of formwork panels, as well as the complexity of maneuvering concrete trucks.

    Figure: 2. Marking the foundation

    Let's consider the simplest technology of strip foundation marking (fig. 2). First, the base position of the main corner is determined in the right place - in relation to the road, terrain, plan, etc. A peg is hammered in this place.

    Then, using a triangle, a right angle is set from this point. Now, having the given dimensions of the sides of the foundation, it is not difficult to determine the position of all corners. The accuracy of the work is checked by comparing the diagonals of the rectangle.

    Pegs are driven in at the marked points. Then, according to the given width of the foundation strip, an inner rectangle is built and pegs are driven in again. The position of the foundation for the veranda is also determined. Pegs are also driven in here. Thus, having hammered in only 12 pegs, the work on marking the foundation can be considered complete.

    After installing the pegs, an incision is made and the sod is removed along the contour of the foundation. To do this, take a board with a section of 50 × 150 mm, apply it first to the outer pegs and, moving along the board, cut the sod with a shovel. Then the board is placed on the inner pegs and the sod is trimmed again.

    They act similarly along the entire contour of the future structure. It remains to take out the trimmed sod, after which the breakdown of the foundation can be considered fully completed.

    Such a simplified marking allows you to get the contour of the trench without precise millimeter measurements, the need for which may arise at subsequent stages of construction. After that, they begin to haul out the trench.

    Some critics of strip foundations consider their main disadvantage to be large earthworks... However, this is not quite true. My colleagues and I have never used an excavator to excavate soil. This is expensive, and the trench is extremely sloppy, which requires subsequent manual revision. In addition, the consumption of concrete increases. But we need to choose only about 9 m3 of soil for a house with dimensions of 6 × 9 m. A crew of four will do this (along with markings and smoke breaks) in just half a day. I dare say that it is much more difficult to drill two or three dozen holes in the clay for a columnar foundation, and even with broadening. When sampling soil from a trench under a strip foundation, vertical markings are simultaneously made: the depth of the trench and the height of the shields are determined. Measurements are made using stakes and a hydro level (Fig. 3).

    Figure: 3. Vertical marking of the trench

    A sand cushion is poured into the bottom of the dug trench in layers of 10-15 cm and rammed. Then reinforcement is installed and concrete is poured.

    It makes no sense to prepare concrete yourself. The concrete truck will bring the ready mix and fill it into the trench. However, it will be necessary to make room for the vehicle to approach the trench at least in 2-3 places. If poured at one point, the concrete will have to be pushed far away with shovels, and the coarse aggregate (crushed stone) will settle in one place. Only the liquid part of the solution will reach the remote places of the trench.

    After pouring concrete into the trench, you can start the preparation of reinforcement and the manufacture of formwork panels. And while the concrete of the base has not yet hardened, it is necessary to stick pins into it every 1-1.5 m to connect the base of the foundation with the plinth. Reinforcing rods ø14-16 mm and 50 cm long are buried in the concrete of the base by 30 cm.

    For the foundation to work reliably, it must meet the following requirements:
    - the foundation tape must have sufficient strength and stability;
    - the foundation must provide the necessary ventilation of the underground;
    - the surface of the basement bed must be straight and located strictly in the horizontal plane;
    - walls and corners of the basement must be strictly vertical;

    The surface of the walls should not have detachments, chips, empty spaces, sinks, open areas with reinforcement;
    - the height of the plinth must be at least 50 cm.
    All further actions should be aimed at fulfilling these requirements, and only then the list of errors when laying the foundation can be reduced or there will be none at all.

    To fill the base, you need to make and install shields. In this case, you will need 42 m2 - external formwork panels and 30 m2 - internal. Higher requirements are imposed on the outer shields, since they form the front of the foundation. For them, it is advisable to use boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm, which were purchased for rafters. After dismantling the formwork panels, they are used for their intended purpose.

    It makes sense to make internal shields (as experience suggests) from boards with a section of 25 × 150 mm, which were purchased for lathing. However, to ensure the strength of the formwork, they need to be knocked down in 2 layers.

    Figure: 4. Manufacturing of formwork panels

    In addition to the economical manufacture of formwork panels, it is advisable to apply a simplified scheme for installing and fixing formwork panels, which my colleagues and I have been using for a long time. Its essence is as follows. First, external shields are recruited (4 boards per shield). To make the gaps between the planks smaller, you can use a simple method of joining the planks using shovels (fig. 4). On the ground, screeds of boards are laid out of bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm and a length of 80 cm. Boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm are laid on them. The result is a board 60 cm wide, which allows you to get a plinth of the desired height. The boards are pressed against each other with shovels and nailed to the screeds. At the ends of the boards, the boards are not hammered together. Locks will be placed there, which are nailed in place when installing the shields. The ends of the ties protruding at the top are used to accommodate wire twists.

    The shields of the inner contour are made in the same way, but they are collected from boards with a section of 25 × 150 mm in two rows with a slight offset. Here, instead of nails, it is advisable to use self-tapping screws for assembly. Before installation, finished boards are wrapped with roofing material, since glassine and film break when pouring concrete, forming unnecessary patterns on the concrete surface.

    The main thing when assembling the formwork - ensure its stable position at the time of pouring concrete. Insecure shields at the time of pouring can cause a lot of trouble. To prevent them from tipping over, they often use various braces, stakes and stops. As a result, material is wasted, the work takes a lot of time, and the reliability of the formwork installation leaves much to be desired. The most important thing is that the fastening elements take up a lot of space on both sides of the base, which interferes with the work and complicates the movement of concrete trucks.

    There is an alternative to this irrational method of formwork fastening. For the installation and fastening of the shields, reinforcing pins are used, which are inserted into the base of the foundation along its central axis. The formwork panels are fastened with wire ties to the pins. As a result, the panels will be reliably tied to the base of the foundation and firmly fastened to it without interfering with the work of external structures. The pins are installed at the corners of the foundation at the junction with the jumpers, and in the intervals between them they are placed with a step of 1.0-1.5 m.

    Consider the technology of mounting shields with reinforcing pins in more detail (fig. 5). First, the inner contour of the shields is installed. It is placed taking into account the width of the base. Since the base of the foundation is somewhat wider than the base (40 cm versus 25-30 cm), there is some space for placing the shields. Shields with locks are connected in the corners and temporarily fastened with sawn timber. The correctness of the installation is checked by comparing the diagonals. The temporarily fastened inner formwork box serves as the base for the installation of the outer contour.

    Figure: 5 Formwork installation scheme

    Then they act in the following sequence. Spacers are attached to each pin, the position of the pins is marked on them (since you cannot put them exactly in the center), nails are hammered into the spacers according to the marks and bend around them around the pins. After that, wire is wound on the pins.

    Outside shields are placed close to the spacers, and the ends of the wire are wound on fastening nails (they are not yet bent). Both walls of the formwork are temporarily fixed, and 2-4 rods of reinforcement ø12-16 mm are laid on the spacers.

    The most important point is the formation of ghosts. These structural elements determine the ventilation conditions of the underground. Often they are formed with the help of scraps of asbestos-cement pipes or wooden boxes are hammered together. The disadvantage of these methods is that with a slight deviation of the shield between it and the liner, a gap is formed where the concrete mixture immediately flows. As a result, work often goes down the drain.

    We act differently in our practice. We take a piece of timber with a section of 150 × 150 mm or a part of round timber ø130 ... 150 mm, wrap it with 2-3 layers of roofing material and insert it between the boards. For the convenience of pushing out the insert and the possibility of water drainage from the air outlet to the outside, the inner part of the insert is made of a smaller section. Note that in the future, these plugs can be used to protect the air in the winter.

    To improve the ventilation conditions, the air vents on the opposite walls of the basement must be placed appropriately. And so that rodents are not interested in your underground, it is advisable to place a mesh with bent edges between the liner and the inner shield. After pouring concrete, the underground will be reliably protected.

    After installing the inserts between the shields, insert and fasten with nails the upper spacers, which (together with the lower ones) set the width of the base. On these bars, the rods of the upper belt of the basement reinforcement are also laid, which are fixed with nails from the transverse displacement at the time of pouring the concrete. It remains to bend up the nails with the wire wound on them, and the shields will be reliably pulled to the reinforcing pins.

    Vertical reinforcement elements for the considered dimensions of the structure and the conditions for loading the foundation may not be installed.

    Now you need to set the height of pouring concrete into the mold. To do this, set the fill height at the lowest point of the base. Other points along the entire contour of the foundation are “beaten off” from this point with the help of the hydro level. Then nails are driven through every 1.0-1.5 m into the shields, along the protruding ends of which the top of the base is rubbed.

    After marking the level of concrete pouring and installing the upper twists, you should still carefully check (compare the diagonals, make sure that the boards are installed vertically).

    For rigidity, the inner and outer contours of the boards near the corners must be tightened with overlays (Fig. 6). And if there are cracks at the bottom of the shields, they should be covered with sand.

    Figure: 6. Box of formwork

    Unfortunately, not all concrete trucks use pumps to unload concrete. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare well for receiving concrete - to free the entrances and stops of the mixer for unloading. Receiving trays may need to be made. You can also make concrete with your own hands.

    It is necessary to pour concrete in layers, carefully controlling the position of the shields. Concrete compaction is done with vibrators, but you can do without them. Good results are obtained by simply tapping on the shields with the butt of an ax - then the surface of the base will be without shells and flaws. But in the corners, to prevent the formation of chipped formations, the mass of concrete must be pierced with a piece of reinforcement (Fig. 7).

    Figure: 7. Consolidation of concrete in corners

    I would like to note that with the traditional (with the help of stakes and spacers) system of installing panels at the time of pouring concrete, troubles often arise. For example, the top or bottom of the shield may deflect partially. Various props can stop this process, but after the concrete hardens in this place, swelling ("belly") can form, which will spoil appearance foundation. It's even worse when the concrete is on the ground.

    If a deflection of the shield is detected, the concrete supply should be stopped immediately and the mortar should be thrown from the emergency area with shovels. At this time, other craftsmen drive the stakes. Then a brace is inserted, which one end abuts against a peg, and the other, together with a wedge, is brought under the shield (Fig. 8). The bottom of the shield is also fixed with an emphasis on the stake. After that, gently tapping on the wedge, raise the shield a little. This operation is repeated several times until the formwork is completely restored.

    Figure: 8. Straightening the formwork

    If the bottom of the shield has departed, then a stake is also driven into the ground and a spacer is installed between it and the shield. After that, with the butt of an ax or a sledgehammer, the strut is gradually driven into place and the "belly" is eliminated.

    Concrete is a plastic material, and it is this property that is used to restore formwork. However, this property of concrete must be taken into account. When the solution vibrates, significant thrust forces arise, and the mixer delivers concrete intensively. In this regard, I would like to draw the attention of readers to a typical mistake when attaching shields, when the wire twist is clinging to the boards, and not to the tie bars (Fig. 9). As a result, the boards move away from the bars and the shield deviates from the vertical.

    Figure: 9. It is impossible to fasten shields like this

    When arranging the formwork using the method proposed above, some difficulties may arise. For example, when the pins and tie-bars of the boards do not match (see Fig. 5). And this is natural, since it is difficult to combine them. If the difference is large, then it is better to put additional ties. This means that you need to have a stock of the necessary material on hand, just in case.

    The poured concrete is covered from cracking with sawdust, roofing material or foil and moistened with water. After the concrete has hardened, they begin to disassemble the formwork. There are different opinions on this issue. Someone believes that this should be done after 2 weeks, others are convinced that the form cannot be disassembled until the concrete has gained full strength.

    In my opinion, a long concrete cure period is useless. It is very difficult to tear off the boards (many of them crack), and you cannot fix minor irregularities. You can disassemble the formwork already on the third day. By this time, concrete will have gained 25% strength, and some irregularities will be easy to remove mechanically. At this time, it is also convenient to repair various chips and cavities.

    The finished foundation (Fig. 10) should be carefully inspected and checked for the horizontalness of the upper cut (viewpoint /) and the flatness of the basement walls (viewpoint II). If necessary, an instrumental control method is used, a tape measure, a hydro level, a plumb line, etc.

    Figure: 10. Foundation control

    Preparation for the installation of the timber box

    Any building object as a whole and each of its parts separately (foundation, walls, floors, roof) can be characterized using concepts such as verticality, perpendicularity, parallelism, flatness and straightness.

    Most of these parameters are regulated by building codes and regulations. Unfortunately, amateur developers are not always guided by them, and sometimes they are unaware of the existence of the relevant standards. However, this does not diminish the significance of the requirements for structures that are enshrined in these regulatory documents. Even for an uninitiated reader in the subtleties of construction, it is obvious what, for example, non-parallel walls or their different heights can lead to. We'll talk about walls today.

    Natural moisture bar

    Most often, country houses are built from a bar of natural moisture. This material, which is much cheaper than profiled or glued beams, allows you to build a warm and reliable house.

    However, without knowledge of the basic rules for working with a bar of natural moisture, success in construction cannot be achieved.

    You should not dry the purchased timber. It is necessary to fold the walls out of it as quickly as possible, since during drying the material is strongly deformed: it bends, takes on a rhombic shape, or even worse - it is twisted by a "propeller".

    Some developers prefer to plan the timber, believing that this will allow not to sheathe the walls later. Others believe that it is necessary to sheathe and insulate the walls only on one side and plan only one edge of the timber. In my opinion, sheathing walls is still better than both sides. In this case, it is not necessary to plan the timber and chamfer its edges.

    However, if you have already decided to plan the timber, consider the following. The edge of a bar with a section of 150 × 150 mm can be planed off in 2 passes, since the working width of planers is limited. So that there are no steps on the planed surface, the plane is first planed along the timber, and the second pass is made, holding the tool at an angle a \u003d 25 ° -45 ° to the longitudinal axis ( rice, 11).

    Figure: 11. Planing the edges of the timber. So that there are no steps on the planed surface, the plane is first planed along the bar, and the second pass is made at an angle to the longitudinal axis.

    The beams laid in the walls dry out. As a result, deep cracks form, into which water gets, which does not bode well for the structure. The most important thing is that when drying out, the bars decrease in size. This property of wood has to be seriously considered when erecting log houses - shrinkage reaches 3-10% of the height of the walls.

    Wall requirements... Walls are the fundamental part of the structure, which determines the living conditions in the house and its architectural appearance as a whole. Accordingly, the following basic requirements can be imposed on the walls.

    1. The main overall dimensions of the walls should have an optimal ratio.
    2. The walls must be straight and the joints between them (corners) must be strictly vertical.
    3. Opposite walls must have the same dimensions over their entire height.
    4. The plane of the upper harness of the structure must be strictly horizontal.

    Of course, this is not a complete list of requirements for walls in general and for a timber box in particular. However, in amateur construction, control only by these parameters gives good results.

    Bottom rail and overlap

    The lower strapping should be securely insulated from the foundation. Roofing material for this is not the best choice... Over time, it dries up, the bitumen impregnation evaporates and the wood is practically defenseless. The following method of waterproofing is more reliable. The surface of the base is coated with bitumen mastic, and a layer of waterproofing is laid on it, which, thanks to the coating, is connected to concrete base no gaps. On this litter, beams of the lower harness are laid, which are pre-processed protective compounds (fig. 12).

    Figure: 12. Installation of the lower trim and floor

    Biosecurity wooden structures - the most important construction operation. And here you need to do everything right away to ensure the durability of the building. It's no secret that any antiseptics evaporate after a few years. Getting to the structural elements to re-process them is difficult, if not impossible. In this regard, it is advisable to first impregnate the material with an achiseptic, and so that it does not evaporate, cover the bar outside with bitumen mastic. The antiseptic penetrates deep into the wood, and the mastic protects it from evaporation. Floor beams are processed similarly.

    The laid lower strapping, after checking the diagonals, is connected with brackets ( see fig, 12, Node B), and the position assembled structure mark on the basement waterproofing. This is necessary to control the position of the frame on the foundation. For reliability, the harness can be attached to the base with crutches or long nails through the plugs. There should be at least two such fasteners on one side. After installing the lower strapping, the overlap is mounted. In construction practice, the following two structural schemes are most often used, one of which is the "beam-clag" scheme. In this option, beams are first laid, and logs are mounted across them. The latter are placed more often than beams. The boards placed on the edge together with the timber form a rigid structure capable of bearing the given loads. It is advisable to use this scheme if thin grooved boards are supposed to be used for the floor. With the "beams + logs" scheme, it is easier to solve issues effective insulation floor, however, the consumption of lumber with this option of overlap increases.

    It should be noted that in summer cottage construction, the overlap scheme is much more often used only from beams, on which floor boards are laid. In this case, a beam with a section of 100 × 200 mm is used as beams. Together with the cranial bars, such beams have sufficient load-bearing capacity and, no less important, due to their height, they also make it possible to effectively insulate the floor. When using thick floorboards, these beams can be placed in increments of up to 1 m.

    Beams should be laid so that there is a ventilation gap (2 cm) between their ends and the trim. This is done using spacers, which are removed after fastening with brackets (see Fig. 12, node B). At the same time, the ends of the beams must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

    The technology of installing beams is simple. First, the extreme beams are mounted and aligned in the horizontal plane. After that, a board is placed on the edge between them and intermediate beams are installed on it. The work is usually monitored visually, and if necessary, a level is applied. Technological flooring is laid on the beams.

    Labour Organization

    You need to prepare for the assembly of the box, since the quality of construction and its pace depend on the organization of work. To make the work stand out, the beams are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5 m from the building on one or better - on both sides (Fig. 13). "Inch" boards are laid between the rows of beams. For this, it is advisable to use a material intended for the subfloor.

    Figure: 13. Organization of the workplace

    Between the pile and the log house, workplaces are installed for marking the beams and cutting them out. You can do it like this. At the desired height (depending on the height of the worker), support boards are inserted between the rows of beams. A timber is carefully laid on them and marked with a template. Then the workpiece is transferred to the cutting site, the necessary operations are performed, after which, using a rope, the workpiece is lifted along slopes onto the walls and laid.

    To facilitate lifting, it is advisable to nail wedge-shaped stops to the slopes. They will prevent the timber from sliding down uncontrollably, which can pose a serious hazard to workers on site. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the load, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

    Marking the bars

    This stage of work is very responsible, since the quality of further construction depends on the correct marking. Traditionally, marking is done using a tape measure. dimensions they are removed directly from the walls, and then on the ground with the help of a square they mark grooves, spikes and other profiles.

    For example, in the case under consideration, each crown consists of 7 bars from 3 to 6 m long. To assemble a box, hundreds of measurements must be taken. It is possible to facilitate the work and increase its accuracy if templates are used instead of measurements. In this case, marking is reduced to a simple tracing of the contours of templates with a marker, which allows not only to reduce labor costs, but also to minimize measurement errors. When using templates, the blanks have identical dimensions, which ultimately allows to achieve a high quality of assembly of the lumber box.

    Note that if you use traditional templates (one for two mirrored workpieces), then 7 marking devices will be required to erect the walls, which will inevitably clutter up the workspace (Fig. 14). Perhaps that is why many builders dislike templates, despite the obvious benefits of using them. So you need to make sure that there are not too many marking devices.

    Figure: 14. Schemes for cutting beams: 1,1 ′ - the main beam of the longitudinal wall (right and left); 2,2 ′ - additional beams of the longitudinal wall (right and left extrusions); 3 - marking holes; 4 - marks on the edges; 5 - removable parts of the workpiece; 6 - transverse wall template; 7 - partition bar; 8 - bar of a transverse wall; 9 - marking holes.

    Figure: 5. Scheme for the development of templates for longitudinal walls: 1 - main beam; 2 - additional bar; 3 1 partition; 4 - corner grooves; 5 - groove for the partition bar; 6 - longitudinal wall template; 7 - extras; a, d - cuts on the edges; B, c - marking holes.

    Let's consider the principles of template development (fig. 15). So, let's say we have to assemble a timber box with dimensions of 6 × 9 m. If you have standard lumber (6 m), this can be done, at first glance, without unnecessary waste. However, it is not. It is possible to assemble a crown with a length of 9 m without loss of sawn timber only if the workpieces with a length of 6 m and 3 m are spliced \u200b\u200bend-to-end (this masonry is often called "brick"). However, this connection is a gross construction mistake, since such a joint turns into a "cold bridge".

    Correct connection of the "half-wood" beams with an overlap of 15 ... 20 cm. But then the total length of the spliced \u200b\u200bparts will not be 9 m, but 8.8 m. At the same time, the joints are staggered, which should be taken into account when developing template profiles.

    The inner wall (partition) should be positioned with some offset from the joint to the right or left. Thus, on one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and on the right - extensions. At the next crown, laying begins in a similar order, but on the right.

    Having determined the exact dimensions of the parts included in each crown, you can proceed to a detailed study of the contours of the templates for the right and left execution.

    Templates can be made from edged board-"inch", prepared for the device lathing. The layers of the boards should be first stitched.

    To mark the extensions, you can not make separate templates, but place them on the main templates by making 4 small notches ("a" and "d") Ha their edges and drilling two holes ("b" and "c"). Thanks to the through holes, the template becomes technologically "transparent" at its actual "opacity". Thus, a typical technical contradiction can be resolved quite simply.

    After marking the template, the shaded parts are cut out. The markers are ready.
    As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from 7 to 3 (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to produce blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

    Moreover, only the partition, installed asymmetrically, forces 2 longitudinal templates to be made. With a symmetrical installation, one marking device would be enough.

    When developing templates, it should be borne in mind that on the construction site the marking devices can be turned around the longitudinal axis by 180 °, and also moved along the longitudinal axis. It is strongly not recommended to provide for a 180 ° turn of a long template around the vertical axis, since it will be almost impossible to do this during work. Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first bar of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the bar and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a sample for a half-tree connection. The marked bar is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to shade them when marking) are cut out with a chain saw.

    Do the same with the second bar. On the longitudinal wall, we need to make an “add-on” to each full timber. To do this, a template is laid on the bar (position I in Fig. 14) and outlined. The sample for the "half-tree" connection at the end of the workpiece is marked with an awl, pricking the bar at points "c" and "b" (see Fig. 14, node A).

    Then the template is shifted (position II in Fig. 14) and the contour is again traced. A beam with two marked additional parts is laid on lining in the cutting area. After sawing out the shaded sections, add-ons are obtained for both longitudinal walls. The arrows in Fig. 14 shows the manipulations with the installation of additional parts in the walls.
    Since the joints of the bars are staggered, the marking of the crown located above begins on the right side. Here, the elements of the corner locks are already changing: if there was a groove on the longitudinal beam, and a spike on the transverse beam, now everything should be the other way around.

    However, how do you mark out spiked parts? Should we make separate templates for them, or should we do with the marking devices that we already have? It is quite obvious that the spike and the groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location, which means that a template with grooves can be used to construct spike profiles on bar blanks. In fig. 14 (node \u200b\u200bB] shows a template of a transverse wall with a groove and the parts with a spike obtained with its help.

    As for the size of the spike, in no case should the spike fit snugly into the groove. The thorn will subsequently dry out, and as a result, a channel is formed, which will certainly turn into a "cold bridge". Therefore, if the dimensions of the groove are 5 × 5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions of 4.5 × 4.5 cm.The gap is filled with insulation.

    Until now, speaking about marking, we assumed that the profile of the template is transferred to the upper edge of the bar. Various grooves and spikes are sawn from the side. Aznach, the horizontal marking must be transferred to the vertical edge of the timber. Do this using squares. These markings are used for neat cuts.

    Practical experience in construction shows that it is unrealistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints. Therefore, mistakes often occur here when a spike is marked instead of a groove, and vice versa. And this is not surprising if you do not use a system by which it becomes extremely simple to mark grooves and spikes. The diagram (Fig. 16) shows the walls with the designation of the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting elements at the ends of the blanks, and also the positions of the openings in the wall. This layout, which can be applied directly to the template, simplifies work organization and prevents layout errors.

    Figure: 16. Scheme for marking the corner joints of a timber box: 1 - joints of longitudinal walls; 2-door openings


    Similar articles

    Recipes for masks with egg white for wrinkles on the face

    Recipes for masks with egg white for wrinkles on the face

    Reviews about Decoction of Matryona (Matrona) from infertility

    Reviews about Decoction of Matryona (Matrona) from infertility

    Is it true that ginger helps you lose weight?

    Is it true that ginger helps you lose weight?

    ×
    Close