Wall insulation with decorative stone (penoplex). Imitation of a foam brick wall Preparation of a concrete-cement base

Buildings can be insulated using various methods. A large number of heaters are available on the market for these purposes. Mineral wool is most often used for siding or other finishing material. Penoplex is indisputably popular. If the choice falls on him, then it would be good to know how to glue the penoplex. If this step is not performed correctly, then the funds may be wasted. The article will discuss the different options for adhesives and how they are used.

The purpose of the penoplex

Penoplex can be used to insulate any part of the building. The manufacturer made sure that for each purpose there was a subspecies of penoplex. For example, for the basement floor there is insulation with the "Foundation" brand. It has sufficient compression strength to withstand the pressure of the compacted earth. Also, with proper fastening, such a penoplex provides airtight insulation that will not allow moisture to seep into the basement. If an additional layer of waterproofing is laid under the penoplex insulation, then this will be ideal. There is a wall foam. It is one of the most popular. Insulation sheets are available with a thickness of up to 10 cm. Its compressive strength is slightly lower than that of a foundation insulation, but it is sufficient to support the weight of the finish.

For roof insulation, there is also a subspecies of roofing foam. It requires the right approach during the installation process, since poor vapor permeability of the material can lead to the accumulation of moisture in the attic. In the case when there is a need to insulate the floor in the garage, then Penoplex 45 is suitable. It has the highest density, so it can withstand high loads. Analyzing the above, we can highlight the strengths of the penoplex:

• moisture resistance;
• resistance to temperature extremes;
• light weight;
• ease of delivery;
• minimum heat permeability;
• high density.

Penoplex practically does not absorb moisture. This is a good indicator that prevents the insulation from losing its properties. It also suggests that it will withstand a large number of freeze-thaw cycles, which hints at a long service life.

it is easy to handle the installation of foam sheets on your own, since their weight is minimal. Only 2% of the total weight is dry matter. The remaining 98% are filled with various gases. Such an air cushion explains the thermal permeability of the material, which is only 0.03 W / (m × K). One standard foam sheet without trimming will easily cover 0.72 m2 of area. Penoplex is not subject to putrefactive processes, therefore, even being in the ground, it will perfectly cope with its tasks.

Penoplex also has its drawbacks. Poor vapor permeability means that the insulation practically does not breathe. This is good when it comes to providing insulation for refrigerators or heating appliances. But for buildings, this can backfire. That is why it is not recommended to use penoplex for internal insulation work. If there is no other way out, then it is important to take care of supply and exhaust ventilation, which will remove moist air in a timely manner. Another disadvantage of penoplex is its flammability. Even with flame retardant additives, the insulation melts perfectly, while emitting carbon monoxide.

How to glue

Before you understand the peculiarities of installing insulation, you need to know how to glue penoplex on the walls or, more precisely, what kind of compounds are for these purposes. They can be conventionally divided into three broad categories:

• dry formulations;
• polymer compositions;
• mastics.

Each of these formulations requires a different approach to application and has a temperature limit for use.

Dry formulations

Dry compositions for penoplex are mixtures that require preparation. Most often, the whole process comes down to mixing the base with water. The main component of mineral compositions for gluing foam is cement or alabaster. Some masters agree that dry foam mixes are more suitable for interior work. But if the air temperature is not far below zero, then they can be used for external work on gluing foam. The advantage of such adhesives for insulation is a long shelf life. That is, you can buy them in advance if the price has a good indicator. The main thing is that the humidity in the room where the foam glue will be located is low.

Another plus is the gradual use of the composition. This means that you can take from the bag as much as is necessary to solve the problem of installing insulation. The rest of the volume can be stored further. Modern dry formulations have moderate setting times.

in some cases, it reaches 4 hours. Such a factor will be useful for beginners, who will be able to correct the shortcomings by adjusting the insulation sheets. To prepare such a mixture, it is better to use a special mixer that will not leave lumps inside. Some consider the disadvantage of such an adhesive that more thorough surface preparation is required. It must be clean and primed so that the adhesive has good adhesion.

Ceresit CT83 is one of the representatives of mineral adhesives for insulation. This is an excellent development that will definitely not be a problem. The limitation is the application temperature, it must not be lower than +5 degrees. You can correct the position of the sheets after gluing for another 1.5 hours. This composition allows you to glue penoplex not only to concrete, but also to brick surfaces. The pulling force from the concrete at the adhesive is 500 kPa, and from the insulation - 100 kPa. When used correctly, consumption does not exceed 5 kg per square meter.

Another quality mineral composition is Atlas Stopter K-20. It can withstand even greater pull-out forces of up to 600 kPa. It grabs a little longer - 4.4 hours, but in warm weather this will not pose any particular problems. Its consumption is 600 grams less compared to the previous version. The manufacturer added special fibers to the composition, which increase the strength of the glue.

Polymers

Polymer compositions do not have such a long service life as dry mixes. They are supplied in special pressure cylinders. To apply them to penoplex, you need a gun. Their disadvantage for beginners can be that they set too quickly, which occurs within a few minutes. Corrections regarding the position of the insulation can only be made in the first 30 seconds. Of the options for purchase, one cannot fail to note the branded Penoplex glue. It contains polyurethane. Another option is Insta-Stic. It comes in the same cylinders as Penoplex. Their capacity is 750 ml. This volume is enough for surface treatment with an area of \u200b\u200bup to 15 m 2.

Full setting of this one-component glue occurs within 12 hours, but it gains sufficient hardness in the first 10 minutes. One of the drawbacks is the peel strength of 200 kPa from the base. Another one-component composition that users love is Tytan Styro-753. It is more suitable for thermal insulation of metal surfaces with foam. Able to provide a pull-off force of 600 kPa. One can is enough to glue 10 sheets of foam when applied correctly.

Mastics

When one of the main tasks is to provide waterproofing, then the penoplex is glued with mastics. But you should be careful about the composition of the foam adhesives. They may contain a solvent that will simply corrode the material. One suitable mastic is Bitumast XPS. It is made on the basis of petroleum products. But solvents are not used to dilute it. This mastic is hot, therefore, before gluing the insulation on it, it is necessary to heat the composition to 90 degrees. It has a minimum flow rate of only half a liter per square meter. The pull-off force of such an adhesive is 500 kPa. Normal acrylic glue is suitable for use. It is water-based, so it will not have a destructive effect on the penoplex.

The preparation of the surface for gluing the penoplex was discussed above. Installation of sheets takes place from the bottom up. A special starting bar serves as a support for the penoplex; it makes it possible to set all sheets in one plane. Dry adhesives are applied to the foam sheet in a continuous layer. It is best to use a notched trowel for this. In some cases, beacon glue application is allowed. In this case, the distance between the blots should be 20 cm. This approach may be required with a high uneven surface. Polymer compounds are applied to the insulation in strips. It is also necessary to glue the sheets together when mounting. The installation video can be viewed below.

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Features of insulation in the apartment

In many respects, concrete is superior to such common building materials as brick or wood, but it has its own characteristics that must be taken into account before thermal insulation of walls:

• Although concrete has high strength, it allows moisture to pass through, and this is bad not only for it, but also for insulation, so the material used must be moisture resistant.
• To prevent the formation of mold and mildew, before installing the insulation, concrete walls must be painted with an antiseptic.
• It is not necessary to insulate individual parts of the facade, but the entire building at once.
• The thinner the wall, the thicker the insulation should be.
• After cutting the opening for laying communications, the holes are sealed with mounting foam in order to exclude heat loss

Outside

For insulation of concrete walls outside, use Penoplex "Facade". The size of foam sheets is 120x60 cm, and its thickness can be from 20 to 150 mm in 10 mm increments.
The insulation can be fixed with either a special glue or a dowel-fungus.

From within

It is easier and cheaper to insulate an apartment from the inside, but it must be borne in mind that the wall remains unprotected, and therefore at low air temperatures, it will be cooled even more, since it does not receive heat from inside the room.

The decision to conduct wall insulation only from the inside, is taken in the most extreme casesif this cannot be done outside the building.

Here, the order of work will be the same as when performing insulation from the outside of the house.

To insulate the room from the inside, use various materials starting from gluing wallpaper (heat-insulating) ending with "Comfort" penoplex.

What is penoplex

Penoplex is a heat-insulating material, which is one of the brands of extruded polystyrene foam. This material can be used for outdoor or internal insulation concrete walls, as well as for insulation of hollow walls.

This insulation is superior in characteristics to many roll and plate materials, its the main advantages are as follows:

• low thermal conductivity;
• it practically does not absorb moisture, that is, it has low hydrophobicity, which cannot be said about mineral insulation;
• vapor permeability, this indicator is important when performing insulation from the inside of the house, if it is low, then condensation will begin to form between the wall and the material, from which the humidity in the room rises, and fungus and mold form on the walls;
• good strength indicators are provided due to the uniform distribution of cells, this characteristic is especially important when carrying out outdoor work;
• affordable cost.

The disadvantages The specified material has a small temperature range for its use, therefore, it cannot be used to insulate industrial premises, baths or saunas.

Another disadvantage of penoplex is that rodents love it, so you need to take care of their destruction.

Step-by-step instruction

Foundation preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to clean the concrete wall from dirt, fungus, grease stains, if possible, then rinse it well with water.

After that, the state of the surface is assessed, all cracks, cracks are closed on it, and irregularities are eliminated.

Waterproofing

At the next stage, waterproofing works are carried out using a deep penetration primer or bitumen mastic.
It will be possible to start the installation of the penoplex only after they have completely dried.

Fastening the penoplex

The sheets are fixed to the wall with glue, while they are stacked tightly to each other and with an offset relative to the previous row. All seams must be properly sealed putty, tape or polyurethane foam.

After the glue has set, the sheets must be additionally fixed with fasteners for penoplex (dowel-fungi), they provide reliable fastening and a tight fit of the insulation, a hole is drilled in the wall through the insulation, and a dowel is inserted into it - a fungus.

Stacking sheets starts from the bottom up, in order to lay them evenly, it is necessary to fix the mounting corner. To improve the adhesion of polystyrene foam to the concrete surface, it is recommended to clean it; this can be done with a metal brush or coarse sandpaper.

After the glue has set, it is necessary to protect the insulation from external negative influences, therefore, using the same solution on which the sheets were installed, it is usually ceresite, but it may be different, attach the fiberglass mesh.

Allow time for the mortar used to fix the mesh to dry and a protective layer of plaster can be applied. If the work is performed inside the building, then you can immediately fix the drywall, and only then plaster it.

To perform these works, you will need the following tools and materials:

1. penoplex;
2. glue;
3. antiseptic;
4. deep penetration primer;
5. plaster;
6. measuring instruments;
7. spatulas;
8. fasteners for penoplex (dowel-fungi);
9. reinforcing mesh.

How to insulate

It is necessary to decide on the thickness of the insulation, in this case it is impossible to act on the principle that the thicker the better. Thus, you will not only spend extra money, but also reduce the strength of the coating.

For wall insulation outside the best option is penoplex with a density of 25 kg / m3. You can also take a material with a density of 15 kg / m3, but it is usually used for non-capital premises, such as a balcony or a veranda, a kiosk, a stall, a warehouse, as well as for decorative elements.

Penoplex with a density of 35 kg / m3 can also be used, but keep in mind that its cost is much higher.

If we talk about the thickness of the insulation, then the most popular is foam plastic with a thickness of 5-10 cm, but it can be from 20 to 150 mm and in each case the decision is made individually.

How to glue

For attaching the penoplex, you can use cement, waterproofing mixtures, polyurethane glue, composite polymers, gypsum-based mixtures... If the surface is dry, then gypsum or cement based compounds can be used.

Waterproofing compounds are made on the basis of bitumen. Foam glue can be used. The adhesive should not contain gasoline, solvent or other components that can damage the penoplex.

Conclusion

If these works are carried out outside the premises, then it is better to do everything in the warm season, and inside the installation of insulation can be done at any time.

dom-s-ymom.org

Mounting adhesives for penoplex according to the characteristics of the composition are divided into four groups.

1. Polyurethane.
2. Mineral, cement.
3. Polymeric.
4. Waterproofing.

It is not recommended to use adhesives from the fourth group for interior work. They contain various solvents and petroleum derivatives that are very harmful to humans.

Penoplex adhesive for outdoor use.

For wall insulation from the outside, cement-mineral compositions should be used. They are distinguished by a high adhesion rate (adhesion, adhesion) to concrete surfaces.

For interior styrofoam.

Installation of insulation on the ceiling and walls inside the building is carried out using glue from the group of polyurethane or polymer. This is due to their technical characteristics and safety for humans.

The most common adhesives for penoplex

Atlas Stopter K-20. Specifications:

• for outdoor work, including for facade insulation;
• sold in containers of 25 kg;
• consumption 4 kg per 1 m2;
• mixture preparation time - at least 4 hours.

Insta-stik. Specifications:

• ready mix;
• sells in a 750 ml bottle;
• there is a special nozzle for application;
• consumption - one bottle per 2 m2.

Atlas Plus. Specifications:

• versatility;
• good adhesion and elasticity;
• suitable for damp surfaces;
• sold in bags of 5, 10 and 25 kg;
• consumption - 1.5 kg per 1 m2.

"Moment". Specifications:

• from the group of polymer adhesives;
• drying time - a day;
• resistance to moisture and low temperature;
• supplied in cans of 250, 500 and 1000 ml;
• consumption - 250 ml per 5 m2.

"Titanium". Specifications:

• suitable for indoor and outdoor use;
• supplied in aerosol form;
• prevents the appearance and spread of the fungus;
• no pronounced odor, safe to use;
• consumption - one cylinder per 10 m2.

Price rangeglue zones

How to glue penoplex - instructions

Before starting work, prepare necessary tools and materials:

• foam plates;
• primer;
• roller or brush;
• degreaser;
• spray;

Follow the step-by-step instructions for gluing insulation.

1. Clean the working surface from paints and varnishes, primer, dirt. Degrease the surface with a spray gun.
2. Apply an even layer of primer to walls / floor / ceiling and let dry completely.
3. Prepare glue if required by instructions. Apply it to the surface as well as the insulation board.
4. Apply the penoplex to the surface: bottom to top if it's a wall, or left to right if it's a floor or ceiling. Hold the stove as long as it does not lag randomly from the work surface.
5. Proceed with gluing the next board.

Methods for applying glue, depending on the nature of the work:

• Point. Dense drops at a distance of 30 cm from each other.
• Stripes. Four L-shaped stripes in the corners and two long ones in the center.
• Solid. Evenly over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe slab, stepping back from the edges by 3-4 cm.

Pay attention to important tips:

• when performing these works, you will need an assistant;
• read the manufacturer's instructions and glue consumption;
• if you are installing penoplex for the first time, use aerosol glue;
• treat the surface with a primer to prevent the appearance of fungus;
• apply glue evenly over the entire surface with a layer of no more than 2-3 mm;
• level the slabs immediately after touching the work surface;
• remember about security measures.

A common question is how to glue penoplex to concrete

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Installation methods and materials used

The installation of expanded polystyrene plates can be carried out without the use of any additional fasteners, however, the concrete surface should be carefully prepared:

• clear;
• plaster;
• treat with a primer.

Tip: if during the preparation the ledges interfere with you, cutting of reinforced concrete with diamond wheels is used to dismantle them.

Materials

Before gluing penoplex to concrete, the following materials must be prepared:

• cement mortar;
• primers;
• adhesives for expanded polystyrene;
• mixing drills component parts glue;
• the container in which the components will be mixed;
• notched spatulas.

If the installation is planned to be carried out using additional fasteners, the set of materials will be even smaller:

• insulation;
• glue;
• joint sealant;
• dowels.

1. The method of fastening insulation using liquid nails. Its advantage lies in the fact that this substance does not need to be applied to the entire surface of the sheet - it will be enough to apply it pointwise.

Advice: keep in mind that its use is not possible with every type of insulation, moreover, it contains toxic substances.
To carry out work with this method, in addition to polystyrene foam and liquid nails, you will also need protective gloves.

1. Another option that answers the question - what to glue the penoplex to concrete, the use of special foam... However, it is advisable to resort to this method only when working with floors, since the foam has rather low adhesive properties.
   There are several types of foam:

• for fixing foam block structures;
• for foam sheets;
• for expanded polystyrene plates.

Below it will be described in detail how to glue penoplex to concrete and the characteristics of these materials.

Properties of various types of glue and options for its application

1. Bituminous.
   Its key benefits include:

• pronounced waterproofing properties;
• resistance to low temperatures.

It does not require any special preliminary preparation, however, if work is carried out at an air temperature below + 5 ˚С, it is recommended to warm up the glue to + 18-20 ˚С.

The instruction is as follows:

1. Clean and prime the concrete surface to be installed.
2. Apply a thin layer of the product to the expanded polystyrene sheet using a solid or notched trowel.
3. To ensure reliable fixing of the plates, they should be pressed for 20 minutes so that the adhesion becomes more stable.

From the disadvantages of this material, toxicity and a tendency to ignite under the influence of high temperatures can be distinguished.

1. Bituminous-latex emulsion mastic. It is widely used primarily because of its excellent properties, in particular, the ability to apply even on a damp substrate and the absence of the need to warm up before use.

It is a composite material made of fine bitumen, synthetic rubber and a number of special additives. Due to its resistance to low temperatures and humidity, the mastic can also act as a waterproofing coating.

1. Silicone glue "Master". It is equally good when used to insulate both the inner and outer sides of walls. It is a viscous liquid based on a special type of rubber that cures in air for about a day. A distinctive feature of this glue is the ability to use in a wide temperature range - from - 60 ˚С to + 300 ˚С.
2. Polyurethane foam CT 84 from Ceresit. An excellent material for the installation of expanded polystyrene, which does not have secondary expansion and therefore does not lead to divergence of the seams between the sheets.

The foam is applied to the concrete surface with an assembly gun, after which the insulation is pressed against this surface. The substance sets within ten minutes, even under conditions of high humidity and low temperatures (up to - 10 ˚С). Please note that the foam is toxic and flammable.

Tip: using diamond drilling of holes in concrete, you can make the necessary communication channels before insulating the facade.

Features of the preparation and use of dry mixes

The use of cement-polymer mixtures is advisable when fixing insulation to brick, concrete or drywall bases. The main components of these mixtures are Portland cement, a plasticizer, and various additives that enhance their properties.

In recent years, dry mixes, both universal and specialized, produced by Ceresit, have been especially popular. The universal adhesive ST-85, which includes a large number of various polymers, providing high strength and plasticity of the mixture.

However, due to the use of expensive additives, the cost of the glue turns out to be quite significant, therefore, to install insulation on concrete, they most often resort to using dry glue ST-83, the price of which is approximately one and a half times less.

Advice: when preparing the adhesive mixture, it should be borne in mind that it hardens within 2 hours, so it is best to mix it in small portions.

The indisputable advantage of dry cement-polymer mixtures is the possibility of their use even if the base on which the expanded polystyrene is installed has an uneven surface. The glue should be applied to the insulation plate in intermittent stripes with a 2 cm indent from the edge.

In this case, after pressing the plate to the base, the air will escape absolutely unhindered, and air locks will not form.

Tip: if the surface is slightly uneven, the mixture can be applied with a notched trowel.

The mixture for installing polystyrene foam boards should be thoroughly mixed with your own hands before application, so that it is as homogeneous as possible, without lumps and water. It is best to mix using a drill with a specially designed attachment, which will make the process simpler and easier.

However, it is necessary to ensure that the nozzle is completely covered with the mixture and does not trap air, otherwise air bubbles will remain in the solution.

After kneading, it is recommended to set the mixture aside for 5 hours, then stir again and use immediately. Exposure for the specified time is necessary in order to achieve complete homogeneity of the mixture and eliminate water from it, which interferes with high-quality adhesion.

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Types and technical parameters of penoplex

Two types of polystyrene heat insulators are used as wall heaters:

• external, used to insulate the outer part of buildings ("Penoplex Facade");
• internal, insulating walls from inside the premises ("Penoplex Comfort").

The sizes of both types of penoplex are identical:

• length - 1200 mm
• width - 600 mm
• thickness - from 20 to 150 mm

Differences in materials are only in some technical parameters. This is clearly shown in the following table:

Fastening insulation

Methods for fixing the penoplex depend on the type of surface on which the insulation is applied, as well as the conditions of its operation.

In order to properly fix penoplex on the wall, two conditions must be met:

• choose an adequate fastening material for this situation;
• set the starting bar on the horizontal level for the first row of insulation.

The most common fasteners are:

• dry solution cement mix;
• bituminous mastic;
• polyurethane foam;
• liquid Nails;
• plastic dowel fasteners.

The following can be used as a starting bar:

• wooden beam;
• wall profile for plasterboard;
• special perforated profile for foam with external and internal corners (the width is selected according to the width of the insulation).

Fixing the penoplex to the wall of the room inside should be based on a certain technology.

Installation stages

Installation of panels is carried out in several stages:

1. The wall surface is leveled horizontally and vertically by applying plaster, putty and cutting the protruding places with a puncher;
2. After the leveling layer has dried, the wall is primed;
3. Glue is applied to each mounted board "Penoplex Comfort", then the product is installed on the wall according to the pre-applied markings and fastened with dowel nails at the rate of 4 per one board. Corner panels are trimmed with a knife, saw or jigsaw if necessary;
4. The next line of panels in relation to the previous one must be installed in a staggered manner, avoiding the coincidence of the seams;
5. After completion of installation, all joints should be filled with mounting foam, glue the joints with tape and close the insulated wall with foil-clad vapor barrier polyethylene;
6. Finishing materials are not attached directly to the penoplex. To install plastic panels or MDF on them, wooden or metal guides are pre-mounted. Wallpaper can only be glued onto pre-installed drywall.

It is necessary to fix the penoplex to the wall of the room outside in compliance with the same requirements as for internal installation: materials can be fixed only on a leveled surface. Taking into account the presence of external climatic influences on the insulated wall, affecting the adhesive adhesion, the alignment is also added:

• removal of dust, dirt, salt deposits, particles of exfoliated facade plaster from the wall surface;
• washing away oil and paint stains with solvents that prevent glue from absorbing into the wall;
• destruction of mold and fungal deposits with construction antiseptics;
• anti-corrosion protection of metal parts on the wall;
• corrugation of perfectly smooth surfaces, which improves the adhesion of the adhesive.

In addition, before installing the penoplex, the arrangement of the guide profiles on the wall is carried out lighting fixtures, air conditioner, satellite dish, house address plate and other external attributes.

Technology and features of installation of insulation on the facade

Facade works, in comparison with internal ones, are more laborious and expensive. They are complicated by:

• large volumes of the insulated surface;
• the height of the building, which often requires the construction of special assembly "scaffolding";
• dependence of the production process on climatic conditions.

Penoplex installation outside the building is carried out in stages:

Stage 1

At the first stage, a basement profile with waterproofing is installed on the already prepared wall along the entire perimeter of the building, which protects the facade from moisture penetration from the bottom of the insulation, as well as rodents that can destroy the insulation. In fact, it is the starting one. The width of the profile should correspond to the width of the foam.

The adhesion of sheets to the wall in order to avoid the formation of internal condensation should be made as tight as possible. In places where normal alignment is not possible, it is recommended to use special seals.

Before installing the insulation, the walls are primed to prevent ineffective adhesive adhesion to their surface. This is especially true for walls made of porous materials such as silicate brick, concrete, foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, cinder blocks.

Glue for laying insulation is made from a dry mixture by mixing it with a mixer with a small amount of water in a special bucket. The solution is spread with a spatula over the surface of the sheet, affecting its center and perimeter. In this case, the total area of \u200b\u200bthe glue should affect approximately 40-45% of the foam.

• Ceresit CT-85
• Stropter K-20
• Glims KF
• Rusexp-PS
• Zenit-36

After applying the required layer of glue to the inner side of the foam, the insulation is pressed against the wall and fastened with mushroom-shaped dowels. The spacing between the bindings usually does not exceed 30 cm.

The length of the dowel is selected based on the thickness of the slab. It is the smallest for wooden base... When attaching insulation to a brick, the length should be increased from 4 cm for solid bricks to 6 cm for slotted ones.

Stage 2

At the second stage, the foam is directly attached to the wall. First, the bottom row is completely lined up, it is installed on the basement profile with all the corners of the building exposed and inserted into the corresponding limiting profiles. At the same time, each panel is leveled, the glue particles protruding in the seams and from above are removed with a spatula.

All other rows of insulation are mounted in the same way. It is only important to observe the divergence of the seams on adjoining rows, as is done with brickwork. Sheets adjacent to window openings, corners, protruding parts of the facade are trimmed.

Excessive gaps between the sheets are filled with cuts of insulation and fixed with glue. The use of other compounds for this, for example, polyurethane foam or sealant, is not allowed, since over time they collapse and break the tightness of the insulation.

Stage 3

At the third stage, the sheets of foam, glued on a certain area, are fixed to the wall with dowel-nails. According to the technology, this is allowed only after the glue has completely dried, that is, about three days after laying.

Branded insulation dowels are made of strong polymers. The metal in this case would violate the thermal insulation properties of the insulation.

The spacer part of the plastic dowel is selected in size depending on the type of surface on which the insulation needs to be attached. It composes:

• for a tree - 2.5 cm;
• for concrete - 4.5 cm;
• for solid brick - 6-8 cm;
• for slotted bricks - 8-9 cm.

The number of fasteners per foam sheet depends on the degree of wall alignment. For an ideal surface, 6 dowels-nails are enough per square meter: 4 at the edges and two at the center.

In cases where the insulation is attached around the perimeter of any technological holes, the dowel-nails must fix it at the joints between the plates, the seams must be reinforced and plastered.

Stage 4

The fourth stage is the finishing one. Insulation installed on all external walls from scattered foam boards is carefully finished by successive overlapping:

• reinforcing mesh made of synthetic polymer;
• fiberglass-reinforced adhesive layer;
• primers for plastering;
• facade plaster.

Plaster is used only for facade type. It is better to use ready-made universal plaster, for example, Economix, Ceresit 174 or 175, as well as Stolit. In addition to high plasticity, these mixtures are highly resistant to temperature extremes and moisture.

After application to the surface of the insulated wall, the plaster is leveled, dried and primed under the finishing decorative plaster. Its choice depends entirely on the taste of the customer.

The most impressive types of decorative façade plaster today are:

• "Modena";
• "Travertino";
• "Manifik Liss".

In the economy class the following are popular: "Korolit" and "Bark beetle".

Decorative processing of the facade with plaster, followed by painting in any color, completes the process of insulation with penoplex and gives it an external effect.

Conclusion

When installing penoplex inside, and especially outside the premises, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the technology adopted in construction. For high-quality work, in addition, you should:

1. use only certified materials;
2. mount the insulation outside the building without violating the temperature regime acceptable for this brand of glue;
3. it is imperative to supplement the adhesive fastening with mechanical fixation of the sheets with dowel-nails;
4. eliminate the presence of voids between the wall and the foam, leading to moisture ingress, freezing and peeling of the insulation;
5. ensure drainage of rain and melt water from the foundation of the building in order to avoid getting it under the insulation;
6. do not delay the finishing work, since the uncovered penoplex is gradually destroyed by the influence of direct sunlight.

Video instruction: how to fix penoplex to the wall inside the apartment

vashplastik.ru

Types of adhesives

What is the composition to glue the penoplex to the surface of the wall, ceiling? There are many options, but the selection must be careful. Such glue will hold not only the material itself, but also the entire insulation structure. If the quality of the glue is poor, it will not hold the insulation.

There are several types of adhesives, depending on the composition:

• mineral;
• polyurethane;
• polymeric;
• waterproofing.

The first type is used to work with a dry surface, because at high humidity, mineral components immediately harden. It is best to read the advice of the adhesive manufacturer carefully before purchasing. This will allow you to choose the right composition. It should be free of caustic, aggressive components, because penoplex is a capricious material, its structure is easy to destroy.

Polyurethane based formulations

For the installation of penoplex, such means are often used. Most are sold in cylinders, so they are convenient and easy to use even for a beginner. The products are ready for use, they do not need to be kneaded, the consumption is economical. The most popular lineup of the series is Insta-Stik. It is sold in 750 ml cylinders, the consumption when gluing is 12-15 sq. m, setting time - 20 minutes. Breakout force - up to 400 kPA. The disadvantage is non-frost resistance - you cannot glue the penoplex on the walls at temperatures below 0 degrees.

Another famous glue is Titan Styro-753. Its consumption is about the same (about 14 sq. M). The product has a high peel force (600 kPa), and the setting time is even shorter (15 minutes). Penosil Fix & Go Montage is frost-resistant, it is operated at -65 ... + 130 degrees. With the help of the described means, it is easy to connect the sheets of foam to each other, stick on wood, attach to a brick wall, to concrete.

Penoplex Fastfix adhesive foam

This foam with adhesive properties is widely used for attaching thermal insulation from extruded polystyrene foam to all kinds of substrates - ceramic tiles, concrete ceiling, floor and walls, to drywall, aerated concrete, brick. Penoplex Fastfix glue-foam ("Penoplex Festfix") is produced in 750 ml cylinders, the tool itself is light blue.

If necessary, the adhesive will provide adhesion to most building materials. Among them are plaster, stone, wood, expanded clay blocks, metal, cork, cellulose. If the material had to be foiled, this tool is incompatible with it. Foam is not suitable for polyethylene, silicone, teflon. Here are the main characteristics of the material:

• drying - 10-12 minutes;
• complete hardening - 24 hours;
• the possibility of cutting - within 30-40 minutes.

The tool is used both for outdoor work and for internal thermal insulation in a room, it is suitable for insulating loggias and balconies.

Mineral adhesives

Mineral-based adhesives are composed of cement, gypsum, alabaster. They harden very quickly and must be applied immediately. The glues are mixed in small portions. Outside the premises, only cement compositions are usually used, products with gypsum components are suitable for interior work. The setting time is long, up to 1.5-4 hours, so it is possible to correct flaws.

The disadvantage of the formulations is that the base must first be primed well, wait for complete drying, otherwise the connection will not be strong. Also, the disadvantage is the need for dilution, to obtain a high-quality homogeneous mixture, a construction mixer is needed.

The most popular brands of mineral adhesives:

1. Ceresit CT 83 - is used directly for gluing foam, suitable for any substrates, pull-off force - 500 KPA, high frost resistance class.
2. "Atlas Stopter K-20" - has an increased pullout force (600 kPA), viable for 4 hours, consumption - 4.4 kg / sq. m, the composition contains special reinforcing fibers.

Funds of this type are sold in bags of 5-25 kg, cost about 300-500 rubles. for 25 kg. If the frost resistance class F50 is indicated on the bag, the product is suitable for interior work. The F100 class means that the boards can be glued outdoors.

Polymer adhesives

Is it possible to fix penoplex with adhesives in small cans? Usually polymer adhesives are sold in such a container; they are ready for use on any surfaces. Gluing with this method is practiced if it is necessary to fix the penoplex to the metal. For beginners, it is better not to buy such compositions - they seize instantly, it will be impossible to fix defects.

Good remedy for slabs - Moment glue. It is resistant to humidity, temperature extremes, and is produced in convenient packaging for 0.25-1 liters. The consumption is low, even a small pack is enough for 4-5 sq. m. Another tool - "Emfikol 225", its technical characteristics are similar. After application, the room should be well ventilated for 2-3 days, but it is ideal to work with it in the air.

Waterproofing compounds

This group of materials that will glue penoplex include adhesives on bitumen, acrylic, rubber, they are produced in the form of mastics. Simple ones cannot be bought, they corrode the material, like waterproofing agents with petroleum products. The best thing that can be used to glue penoplex is Bitumast XPS. The mastic does not include solvents, sets in 2 days, has a high pull-off force - 500 kPa.

Acrylic adhesives will easily attach penoplex to wood, concrete, brick, connect penoplex with penoplex, glue penofol with penoplex. They are suitable for indoor and outdoor use and have a very low consumption. Bituminous mastics have the most pronounced waterproofing properties and are resistant to low temperatures.

Penoplex sticking instructions

When you have chosen what to attach the material to, you can start directly to work. It is important to properly prepare the surface of the base, you can do it yourself. It should be cleaned of debris, dirt, dried. If the manufacturer recommends, the surface must be primed first. Next, you should cut out the necessary pieces of the main material. How to cut penoplex? For this purpose, a clerical knife or jigsaw is used.

Installation technology

After drawing up the installation plan, you can start gluing the product to the floor, walls or ceiling. Mineral wool is often used under penoplex.

There are several ways of gluing with glue:

• point;
• solid;
• boundary.

The point method is more often used, while liquid glue is applied with a spatula 100-200 mm wide. After that, you should wait a certain time and press the material to the surface. After complete drying, the joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or the same glue. The second option is much more expensive.

Glue consumption

All useful information for the user, including material consumption, is always indicated on the packaging. The usual figure is 3.5-5.5 kg / one standard layer of material (for mineral mixtures). Glue in cylinders is more economical, it is consumed less (from 10 sq. M per one cylinder).

Penoplex putty

After the glue has completely dried, you can additionally fix the penoplex with dowels, so it's safer. Next, puttying is carried out with finishing materials. It is necessary to putty smoothly, in layers, smooth the putty evenly. After the first layer, a mesh of metal, plastic, reinforcing is attached. The thickness of the first layer is up to 1 cm, the second is slightly less. 2-3 layers are optional, the third layer is usually sprayed and up to 5 mm thick.

Outer foam protection

A special glue is used for external protection. Which one is used in this case? Suitable means with high adhesion to the surface, you can choose the brands "Ceresit", "Master", "Polimin". Some professionals prefer to use "Giprok" - insulation similar to drywall.

Bonding stone and tiles to penoplex

After the final stage of work, you need to think about finishing. Most often it is recommended to glue ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware or artificial stone. This is done with tile adhesive with frost-resistant qualities, with its help you can quickly and easily finish floors and walls. It is imperative to apply several layers of plaster, preferably "Ceresit ST 85" with a reinforcing mesh. Indoors, it is recommended to make a cement screed on the floor, and then create a decorative coating.

Questions and answers

There are a number of questions of concern to users regarding the use of penoplex.

How to glue penoplex with penoplex?

There is no difference between how to glue two sections of foam and this material with other surfaces. But experienced builders say that when bonding the slabs to each other, it is better to use a continuous method of applying glue, and you can do without a primer. Dowel-nails in this case are not required, and any of the above glue will do.

Can the material be glued to polyurethane foam?

It is possible to glue penoplex to foam, the adhesion will be strong. On the floor, this type of work is carried out on a self-leveling concrete screed. But it is very expensive to glue on polyurethane foam. It also tends to expand, you will have to constantly press it until the process is complete.

Can Penoplex be glued to liquid nails?

You can use liquid nails, it is not very convenient. It should take up to 7 minutes before the plate is put in place, otherwise the glue will not set. In addition, the price of the work will increase greatly.

Does air temperature matter?

It depends on the type of adhesive. Some lose their properties at low temperatures. Others allow work in the cold. All data must be specified in the instructions.

Choosing an adhesive and what is best not to use

Before buying, consider the following points:

• acceptable price;
• suitability for use indoors or outdoors;
• adhesion strength;
• consumption;
• harmlessness (for interior decoration).

Usually, any polyurethane, polymer adhesives are bought for interior work. It is forbidden to use waterproofing agents indoors, they can be harmful to health. Outside the house, cement-based mineral mixtures are often used. For outdoor use - balconies and plinths, acrylic mixtures are ideal.

Compositions with benzene, toluene, acetone, formalin, xylene cannot be used for penoplex. Also kerosene and gasoline, coal tar and polyesters, formaldehyde will spoil the material. Otherwise, you can easily glue the material with your own hands at no extra cost.

kraska.guru

Technical characteristics and advantages of penoplex

Penoplex is a type of extruded polystyrene foam. The material is a wear-resistant plate, inert to mechanical damage, decay, destruction and high humidity. It also has a long service life, frost resistance and does not require the use of waterproofing protection.

The high performance characteristics of the penoplex allow it to be used for internal and external thermal insulation of the foundation, walls, ceilings and floors. In addition, the material is widely used for interior decoration of wet rooms, insulation of balconies, loggias and verandas.

Particular attention is paid to the technology of installation of the "Facade" insulation outside. In this case, it is required to create a ventilation space for laying the waterproofing layer.

For internal installation, "Comfort" penoplex is used, which provides good thermal insulation of the room, has increased strength, flexibility and reliability.

Materials have the following characteristics:

1. Thermal conductivity (W / mk): "Facade" and "Comfort" - 0.03.
2. Flammability (MPa): "Facade" - 0.2; "Comfort" - 0.17.
3. Moisture absorption (%): "Facade" - 0.6; "Comfort" - 0.41.
4. Sound insulation (dB): "Facade" and "Comfort" - 42.
5. Operating temperature (degrees): "Facade" and "Comfort" - from -99 to +74.

Plates for indoor and outdoor installation have standard dimensions: length - 1.2 m and width - 0.6 m.

Penoplex has a lot of advantages that make it stand out against the background of other well-known heaters (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene):

• Universal use.
• Wide operating temperature range.
• Resistant to steam and moisture.
• High thermal insulation.
• Long service life.
• Ease of processing and installation.
• Chemical resistance and safety.

Effective thermal insulation with penoplex is possible only if the technology of its installation is observed. The sheets are installed on a flat surface. The first is the starting bar made of wooden beam or perforated metal. The width of the plank should match the width of the insulation. There are ready-made kits for sale, consisting of a strip, external and internal corners for mounting at joints.

Installation of the starting plate is carried out in the following order:

• A horizontal guide is marked along the perimeter of the building using a level or chokline.
• First, the required level is set, then beacons are installed with a thread.
• The strip is mounted on the dowels along the intended guide.

The starter bar will ensure the correct fixing of the foam in compliance with the installation geometry.

The staggered arrangement of sheets from the starting bar up is the best way to install insulation. The adhesive is applied to the inner side of the insulation, and to fill the resulting voids, polyurethane foam is used, which does not include hazardous components.

After the installation of the penoplex is completed, decorative finishing surface.

Penoplex fixation methods

The choice of a suitable method for installing insulation is determined by the quality and type of surface, as well as the level of load that is created by the material.

Fastening the penoplex to the wall is performed:

• Mastics.
• Dry mixes.
• We glue.
• Dowels.
• Liquid nails.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Polyurethane foam.

Regardless of the method chosen, the installation of the insulation is carried out from the bottom up.

Polymer and bituminous mastics

Mastics are widely used for the thermal insulation of plinths, foundations, exterior walls and balcony screens. They provide easy and safe wall mounting in the presence of adverse external factors.

Mastics are special viscous mixtures in tubes, ready to use. The tubes are installed in a construction gun, after which the mastic is evenly applied to the prepared insulation. Next, the installation is carried out and the material is pressed to the surface for a minute.

Modern mastics contain a small amount of petroleum products, so all installation work is carried out in compliance with safety rules and in well-ventilated areas.

Dry mixes

Laying foam with dry cement-based mixtures is the most affordable option... Most often it is used to fix the insulation to a concrete wall. The dry mixture is diluted according to the instructions to obtain a viscous solution. To simplify mixing, a special attachment for an electric drill is used.

The finished solution is applied to the surface of the insulation with a notched trowel to evenly fill the existing grooves. Next, the installation of insulation is carried out in the same way as in the previous method.

Adhesives

Penoplex can be glued to each other using special adhesives presented in the form of foam. The adhesive is used in the same way as the polyurethane foam. High adhesion of the material allows you to fix penoplex on smooth concrete and stone surfaces.

The composition is applied along the perimeter of the insulation with a construction gun for sealant or polyurethane foam. Then he is pressed against the treated surface for 40 seconds. It will take at least half an hour for the material to fully set.

After two hours, work is done on the surface finishing.

Dowel-shaped dowels

Fastener with a wide head, which is used for large areas of thermal insulation and for uneven surfaces, such as a brick wall.

For work, plastic or metal fixing mushrooms can be used that can withstand heavy finishing materials and are resistant to damage.

The disc dowels are attached as follows: a puncher makes holes up to 6 cm deep, which are filled with foam. Next, a dowel is inserted so that the cap does not rise above the surface of the insulation. Up to 5 dowels are used for one sheet of insulation. Adjacent sheets are connected together with a single dowel, which is inserted into the connecting seam.

Liquid Nails

You can glue the insulation on a leveled and primed base using liquid nails. The adhesive is applied with a gun in the center and along the perimeter of the foam board. Fixation is carried out by quickly pressing the material against the treated surface.

Liquid nails are a versatile, expensive compound that is suitable for wood and metal surfaces. Due to the high cost of the material, such insulation technology is advisable for small areas.

Self-tapping screws

The simplest and cheapest option for surface thermal insulation is using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. Suitable for fixing foam to wooden wall on a pre-installed crate.

Despite the simplicity and availability, this method of installing insulation has significant disadvantages. Unlike dowels, self-tapping screws have small caps, so their consumption is higher - up to 8 pieces per plate. Accordingly, this becomes the reason for the appearance of cold bridges and a decrease in the thermal insulation characteristics of the surface.

Mounting foam

The method of fixing the insulation using polyurethane foam is of an auxiliary nature, if the main fastening is performed on dowels or self-tapping screws. In this case, the surface is glued with foam to increase the adhesion of the material to the surface. This method is used for facing surfaces made of plastic and plaster.

The foam is applied with a gun along the center and perimeter of the foam sheet. Next, the insulation is applied to the surface and held for some time for quick setting.

How to make double insulation

Often, this technology is used to insulate a balcony, loggia and veranda in order to create the most comfortable conditions for staying indoors.

It provides for the installation of a double layer of thermal insulation material on surfaces that cannot be glazed - a load-bearing wall and a parapet. Side walls, floor and ceiling are covered with one layer of insulation.

First, penoplex is installed using one of the methods presented above, on top of which penofol is mounted on metal staples or an adhesive composition.

The high performance characteristics of foam as a heater allow it to be widely used for internal and external thermal insulation of buildings. The availability of material processing and the choice of the most suitable installation method allows you to effectively insulate various types of surfaces with your own hands, without attracting expensive specialists.

sdelatbanyu.ru

Source: kirpichvsem.guru October 29, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobby: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Penoplex is one of the most common insulation materials today. However, despite this, not everyone knows that its exterior decoration requires a special approach, different from the finishing of foam or mineral wool. Therefore, so that your efforts, time and money are not wasted, in this article I will tell you how to properly decorate the facade with penoplex.

Features of penoplex

In order to further understand the subtleties and nuances of the finishing of the penoplex, first let's get acquainted with the features of this material. First of all, I will note that its correct name is extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex is popularly called this heater in honor of the Penoplex company, which, as you might guess, is engaged in its production.

Penoplex is based on ordinary polystyrene foam (polystyrene), which undergoes special processing under the influence high temperature... Thanks to this, he acquires the following qualities:

• higher strength;
• homogeneous smooth structure;
• zero moisture absorption;
• vapor permeability;
• lower thermal conductivity than conventional foam.

Often, manufacturers add fire retardant additives to the penoplex, as a result of which the material acquires the G1 flammability class. True, only the most expensive brands of extruded polystyrene foam from well-known manufacturers have this quality.

On the one hand, due to these properties, extruded polystyrene foam is a more attractive insulation. But on the other hand, due to zero moisture absorption and smooth homogeneous structure, this material has very poor adhesion. Therefore, initially it was not intended at all for use in “wet facade” insulation systems.

A big mistake for beginners is that they try to finish the foam in the same way as regular foam. This leads to the fact that the reinforcing mesh lags behind it together with the plaster (glue), immediately after curing.

The price of penoplex is several times higher than the cost of ordinary foam. Therefore, it makes sense to use this material only where its qualities, such as strength, are really important. For example, it can be used to decorate basements.

Penoplex finishing technology

The process of finishing the penoplex can be conditionally divided into several stages.

Extruded polystyrene foam can also be used in the arrangement of hinged (ventilated facades). In this case, the work is carried out in the same way as in the case of using other thermal insulation materials, such as foam.

Instrument preparation

So, before finishing the penoplex, you need to prepare a certain set of materials:

• an adhesive primer such as Ceresit CT19;
• ceresit CT83 glue or its analogue;
• fiberglass mesh for outdoor use;
• perforated corners;
• universal facade primer;
• decorative facade plaster;
• facade paint.

In addition, you should prepare the following inventory:

• needle roller or metal brush;
• a set of spatulas;
• plaster bevel;
• building level;
• construction mixer or drill with a special attachment;
• paint roller and pallet;
• paint brush;
• assembly knife.

Now you can get to work.

Preparation for reinforcement

Preparation for reinforcement is the most crucial stage of the work, since it is on it that the adhesion of finishing materials to the penoplex depends, respectively, and the durability of the entire finish. Instructions for implementation preparatory work looks like that:

1. primarily the surface of the extruded polystyrene foam must be roughened. To do this, treat the insulation with a needle roller or metal brush. You can also use ordinary sandpaper stretched over a jointer for these purposes;

1. then the surface should be additionally treated with an external adhesive primer. To do this, pour liquid into the roller tray and dip the roller itself into it. During application, make sure that the primer lays down in a thin, even layer.
   After the first layer of soil has dried, the procedure is repeated once more;
2. then you need to glue perforated corners on the outer corners of the foam, using Ceresit CT83. In the process of installing them, use the building level so that they are located strictly vertically or horizontally.

That's all the nuances of preparation. Now you can start reinforcing the penoplex.

Reinforcement

Do-it-yourself foam reinforcement is carried out as follows:

1. first, cut the fiberglass mesh into the desired lengths. Please be aware that the mesh should be turned up at the corners and with an overlap of about 100 mm;
2. then prepare Ceresit CT83 glue according to the instructions on the package;
3. then apply the glue to a mesh-sized area with a thickness of about 5-7 mm;
4. then process the area covered with glue with a notched trowel, while throwing excess glue that will remain on the spatula back into the container with glue;
5. now attach the mesh to the glue, after leveling it, and iron it with an even wide spatula. As a result, the mesh should be completely immersed in the glue;
6. according to this scheme, it is necessary to reinforce the entire surface of the insulation;
7. after the surface has solidified, it is necessary to apply another layer of glue about 3 mm thick. For the second layer, you can thin the glue to make it easier to work with.

In the process of applying the second layer, try to get rid of all surface imperfections, as if you were putting on the walls.

This completes the reinforcement of the insulation.

Decorative finishing

Decorative finishing of the foam from the outside is carried out as follows:

1. start by treating the surface with a universal façade primer. This work is carried out according to the scheme described above;
2. then you need to stir decorative plaster in water according to the instructions from the manufacturer, which is on the package;
3. then the surface is covered with decorative plaster using a bevel or a wide spatula. The solution should be applied as thin as possible.

In the photo - mashing decorative plaster

1. after 5-7 minutes, when the plaster begins to set on the walls, grouting is performed. To do this, place the bead flat, and, slightly pressing it against the plaster, make circular or reciprocating movements with your hand;
2. after the decorative plaster is dry, you can start painting the facade. The easiest way to do this work is with a facade paint roller.

Try to apply the paint in a thin, even layer, and, of course, avoid drips. To paint the surface with high quality, paint in two or even three coats.

It is necessary to apply decorative plaster within one wall in one go, i.e. without interruption. Otherwise, the transition will be conspicuous even after painting.

This completes the exterior decoration. I must say that you can use penoplex for interior wall decoration, for example, if you need to insulate a loggia or. In this case, instead of decorative plaster, you can cover the reinforced surface with putty and then with any topcoat.

Conclusion

Despite poor adhesion, penoplex is quite amenable to finishing, which allows it to be used as a facade insulation. The only thing, this procedure requires strict adherence to technology. It is especially important to approach the preparation of the surface of the insulation for reinforcement.

October 29, 2016

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Flexible stone FS- Stoneis produced in light-permeable sheets ~ 2 mm thick, 96 x 60 cm in size (0.576 sq. m.), which are easily cut into "tiles": 4 pcs - 48 x 30 cm, 9 pcs - 32 x 20 cm. or "clinker tiles "32 pieces - 24 x 7.5 cm, as well as" tiles "of any size.

Flexible stone FS-Stone due to its high elasticity, it can be glued to almost any curved surface of any material.

For flexible stone sticker FS-Stone it is recommended to use adhesives with high elasticity, for example: FS-Glue, ALLFIX, Ceresit CM 17 or their analogues.

Comparative table of consumption and cost of adhesives per 1m2:

GLUE	FS-Glue	ALLFIX		Ceresit CM 17
Price	200 rub / l	RUB 270 / kg		960 rub / 25 kg
Consumption	80 - 200 ml / m2	0.3 - 0.6 kg / 1 m2		2 - 3 kg / 1 m2
Cost price	16 - 40 rubles / m2	81 - 162 rubles / m2		77 - 115 rubles / m2
Foundation preparation	In some cases it is not required , including for bases: wood, plasterboard, plywood, DSP, OSB, chipboard, MDF, foam. Direct mounting!			In most cases it is requiredpreliminary preparation of the base. The cost of preparation is 50 - 300 rubles / m2.
	Careful leveling of the surface is required.		For highly absorbent surfaces, pre-priming is advisable.

FS- Glue . Highly elasticglue for flexible stone, after drying it becomes almost transparent. It has high adhesion, deformation resistance, water and frost resistance. Can be used on drywall, gypsum board, gypsum board, chipboard,OSB , DSP, FTP, expanded polystyrene, metal, concrete, stone, wood. Suitable for indoor and outdoor use (at positive temperatures). If necessary, level uneven surfaces with leveling compound. The glue is applied with a brush or roller onto the surface to be pasted. Consumption 80 - 200 ml / m2, depending on the porosity of the glued surface. Ideal for creating a "glowing" stone, as well as for butt stickers. When gluing "with jointing", moistened tinted sand is rubbed into the glue remaining on the surface between the tiles of flexible stone.

Universal facade adhesiveALLFIX http://www.allfix.ru/

Methanol free, heavy duty, all weather, moisture resistant. Used for both outdoor and indoor work. Working temperature range from -10 to +30! If necessary, level uneven surfaces with leveling compound. The adhesive is applied to the surface to be pasted with a roller or notched trowel in stripes over the entire surface. After 1-2 minutes, a flexible stone is applied. Consumption: when applied by roller 300 g / m2, when applied with a notched trowel 600 g / m2

Highly elastic cementitious adhesives are also used to apply flexible stone, for exampleCeresit CM 17 http://www.ceresit.ru/products/glues_for_tiles/93/

FS- flexible stone sticker Stone at internal works simple and fairly general recommendations. The surface must be solid, clean and dry. "Old plasters" check for peeling, if necessary replace the loose plaster layers, the resttreat with a primer. Uneven surfaces when using adhesives FS- Glueand ALLFIXlevel if necessary with leveling compound. When using glue Ceresit CM 17 perform preliminary leveling of the surface with irregularities exceeding 1-2 cm. When gluing to drywall, gypsum board, chipboard, OSB, the seams between the plates should be reinforced with a serpentine tape, the corners should be reinforced with a painting profile. The tape and profile can be planted on the tile adhesive used. When gluing to unprepared walls, follow the recommendations for outdoor work given below.

Sticking to supporting bases (brick, concrete, aerated concrete)

Installation of flexible stone on brick and concrete.

This group of materials includes all other materials with similar characteristics (smooth, non-absorbent and non-deformable surface), except for plastic. Plastic has significant thermal expansion, therefore, for outdoor work, the use of plastic as a base is not advisable, in extreme cases, it is possible with the use of glue FS- Glue.

Warming... If there is a need to insulate a wall from a similar material, you can use EPS or mineral wool. The optimal material for thermal insulation systems with flexible stone on smooth, non-absorbent surfaces is EPS. Before installing the insulation, the wall should be prepared in the same way as for installing the tiles. (See the insulation sticker below).

Foundation preparation ... For non-gluing flexible stone using glue FS- Gluecarry out preliminary leveling of the surface with Ceresit CT 29 putty. ALLFIX such preparation is carried out with significant surface unevenness. For cement-based adhesives, the brick surface must be treated with Ceresit CT 16 adhesive primer, and the concrete surface with Ceresit CT 17 penetrating primer.

The tiles can be glued directly to the primed surface using any high quality outdoor tile adhesive. To form seams gray use Ceresit CM 17 gray adhesive. For white joints - Ceresit CM 115 white exterior adhesive.

Installation of flexible stone on aerated concrete, aerated concrete differs from that described above in that for surface preparation for adhesives FS- Glueand ALLFIXthe putty Ceresit CT 24 is used. And for cement-based adhesives, it is twice treated with the penetrating Ceresit CT 17 primer.

Frame wall sticker (OSB, DSP, FTP).

Installation of flexible stone on OSB, DSP.

OSB (oriented strand board) is a board made of several layers of pressed wood chips. Moreover, these layers are located at an angle of 90 0 to each other. The surface of the slab is treated with paraffin. OSB board is not the easiest base for "wet" work, this is due to the significant deformation of the board during moisture collection. OSB boards come in different qualities, despite the same declared OSB-3 brand. Plates supplied to the Russian market of the USA and Canada (Arbec, Norboard, LP, etc.) are of lower quality than European ones. They have a low density and are hardly processed. The densest slab made in Germany (TM Glunz). For the outer walls of a frame house, an OSB board with a thickness of at least 12 mm of high density should be used. A cheap Canadian stove is not suitable for this. The best option is to use OSB boards with flexible stone cladding FS- Stonethese are SIP panels. They are quite rigidly connected to each other and provide acceptable geometry.

DSP These are gray concrete slabs with a light filler of sawdust. Inexpensive and practical construction material... For the outer walls of a frame house, a DSP slab with a thickness of at least 12 mm should be used. Slab TsSP-1 surpasses the TsSP-2 brand in strength and geometry accuracy. DSP board has two disadvantages: deformation due to fluctuations in humidity and high absorbency.

Surface preparation ... Seams between the slabs should be reinforced with serpentine tape, corners and window slopes should be reinforced with a painting profile. The tape and profile can be planted on the tile adhesive used. For adhesives FS- Glueand ALLFIXsuch preparation is sufficient. For cement-based adhesives, the surface must be treated with a penetrating primer Сeresit CT 17... It will eliminate moisture absorption from the tile adhesive. And for the base from OSBadditionally treat the surface with an adhesive primer Сeresit CT 16... It will provide a rough surface and protect against coloring pigments.

The tiles can be glued with any of the above recommended adhesives or any high quality flexible outdoor tile adhesive. Attention! OSB and DSP boards are subject to deformation, therefore elastic adhesive is required (elasticity index S1 or S2). Use elastic gray adhesive (Ceresit CM 17 or Lugato Flexibel) to form gray joints. For white joints - elastic white outdoor glue (Ardal Best S2, Ardex X77W, Mapei Granirapid). You can also use Ceresit CM 115 white glue with an elasticizer Ceresit CC 83.

Installation of flexible stone on fiber cement.

Flat slate is a sheet of concrete reinforced with asbestos fiber (asbestos cement) or polyester fiber (fiber cement). As a variation, there is the so-called aquapanel, this is a concrete sheet reinforced with fiberglass mesh. Aquapanel can be used for indoor and outdoor use. Fiber cement panels are quite dense, so they do not pick up moisture and practically do not deform due to fluctuations in humidity. Such materials are an ideal solution for external cladding of a frame house under flexible stone cladding FS- Stone.

Surface preparation FTP and gluing a flexible stone are similar to working with DSP except that there are no increased requirements for the elasticity of cement-based adhesives, for example, Ceresit CM 115 can be used without an additional elasticizer.

Insulation sticker (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool).

Installation of flexible stone on expanded polystyrene EPS

The optimal grade of expanded polystyrene for use in the PSB-S 25 facade insulation system (density 15-25 kg / m3). It is permissible to use denser grades. Polystyrene foam is attached to the base (front wall) with glue ALLFIXor on a special adhesive for expanded polystyrene (for example, Ceresit Thermo Universal or Ceresit CT 83). Foam plates are installed close to each other, without gaps and cross-shaped seams, similar to brickwork. Not earlier than after 48 hours, the expanded polystyrene plates are additionally fixed with disc dowels (so-called parachutes). The dowel caps must be recessed flush with the surface of the insulation. The length of the dowel is selected so that it goes into the base no less than the depth recommended by the dowel manufacturer for a specific wall material (more for aerated concrete than for reinforced concrete). Consumption of dowels 5-7 pcs per m2.

The tiles can be glued directly onto the polystyrene foam surface using adhesives FS- Glueand ALLFIXor quality cement-based tile adhesive for outdoor use. Use gray adhesive (Ceresit CM 17 or Lugato Flexibel) to form gray joints. For white joints - white outdoor glue (Ceresit CM 115).

Installation of flexible stone on XPS extruded polystyrene foam (appearance: very dense plates of fine-pored orange insulation, brands Styrofoam, Penoplex, etc.) is similar to working with expanded polystyrene, except that when working with it it is not advisable to use cement-based adhesives due to the complexity of surface preparation.

Installation of flexible stone on mineral wool

Dense plates of pressed thin stone fibers of gray-green color, packed in a heat-shrinkable film. Common trade marks are Paroc, Rockwool. For façade systems with flexible stone FS- Stoneit is permissible to use mineral wool with a density of at least 130 kg / m3. These are, for example, Rockwool Fasad Butts or Paroc FAB 3.

To a previously prepared front wall, mineral wool slabs are installed as follows. On the plane of the insulation plate, glue is applied with a large comb ALLFIXor adhesive composition for mineral wool Ceresit Thermo Universal or Ceresit CT 190... Mineral wool slabs are installed close to each other, without gaps and cross-shaped seams, similar to brickwork. Not earlier than after 48 hours (for ALLFIX glue after 24 hours), the slabs are additionally fixed with dish-shaped dowels (so-called parachutes). The dowel caps must be recessed flush with the surface of the insulation. The length of the dowel is selected so that it goes into the base no less than the depth recommended by the dowel manufacturer for a specific wall material (more for aerated concrete than for reinforced concrete). Consumption of dowels 5-7 pcs per m2.

Insulation surface preparation ... A base plaster layer reinforced with Ceresit Thermo Universal or Ceresit CT 190 fiberglass mesh should be applied to the surface of the slab. There is no need to prime the slab. Outside corners and wall openings are recommended to be leveled and reinforced with a corner painting profile. The profile can be fixed with a basic plaster layer.

The tiles can be glued to the surface of the base layer after 24 hours using adhesives FS- Glueand ALLFIXor quality cement-based tile adhesive for outdoor use. Use Ceresit CM 17 or Lugato Flexibel gray glue to form gray joints. For white joints - Ceresit CM 115 white exterior glue.

Sticker on permanent formwork (Durisol, Velox, IZODOM).

Installation of flexible stone on Durisol, Velox formwork is similar to working with DSPexcept that above the surface fixed formwork VELOX are embedded parts made of thick steel wire. Over time, they will be able to paint rust on the joints of the flexible stone. Therefore, before installation, they must be painted over with nitro enamel or other suitable paint and varnish composition. In addition, in order to hide the unevenness formed by the embedded parts, when working with cement-based glue, a comb with a large tooth (6-8 mm) should be used. This will increase the consumption of glue. And when working with adhesives FS- Glueand ALLFIXeven at the construction stage, it is necessary to "deepen" the embeds into the VELOX slab so that they do not protrude above the surface.

Installation of flexible stone on formwork with IZOD completely analogous to working with expanded polystyrene EPS.

Warming of premises is a very relevant topic in our time, because energy resources are not getting cheaper. One of the most popular insulation materials is penoplex, and we want to tell you about its scope. A particularly relevant question is the finish of the penoplex, and we will tell you about this in detail.

Penoplex insulation and its finishing

Internal work

Everyone knows that the insulation should be located on the outside of the wall. However, such an arrangement is not always possible: the facade has an architectural value, access to the outer surface is difficult, or it is not possible to pay for the work of high-rise workers. Then resort to internal installation thermal insulation, and the most convenient material for this is penoplex ().

From a chemical point of view, penoplex is a high quality extruded polystyrene foam, the thermal conductivity of which is reduced as a result of special processing by 30% compared to conventional foam, although the price is slightly higher.

Also worth noting:

• stronger and more durable material structure;
• improved sheet forming;
• increased surface adhesion to adhesives and finishing solutions.

Important! A significant advantage of expanded polystyrene is its absolute hydrophobicity, the material is not afraid of moisture, does not react with water and does not dissolve in it, practically does not absorb vapors and water particles into its structure, and does not rot. All this allows us to recommend this type of insulation for different types works on thermal insulation of building structures.

To mount the material on the walls from inside the room, you can use two methods:

• dry,
• wet.

The dry method involves the installation of a heat-insulating layer under a hard coating - lining, gypsum fiber sheets or panels.

In this case, the material is placed between the coating and the wall after the frame has been built, which is then sewn up with sheets of drywall, boards, plywood or other finishing material... Obviously, in this case, since it is covered with other material.

Another thing is the wet way:

• here the sheets are mounted on the wall;
• then putty or plaster.

In this case, the finishing is carried out directly on the surface of the insulation, and only then this layer is covered with paint or wallpaper.

The work is not particularly difficult, it can be done alone with your own hands, only minimal skills in using a spatula and a drill are required:

• The wall is cleared of old finish up to a brick or concrete base, then cracks and other defects are repaired, after which the surface is primed;

• Starting from the upper left (or right - as it is more convenient to anyone) corner, they begin to mount the sheets on the wall. To do this, glue is applied to them, pressed and fixed with disc dowels. The seams between the sheets are displaced in each row by half of the sheet, like a brickwork;

• After the wall is completely covered with foam, you should carefully coat with glue or fill the joints with sealant. You can also use polyurethane foam. In addition to the seams, the dowel entry points are filled with glue;

• Before finishing the penoplex, it is covered with a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. It serves for better adhesion of the putty or plaster to the surface of the vertical wall. The mesh is pulled and applied to the insulation layer with glue; for convenience, you can pre-fix it with a construction stapler;

• When the mesh with glue has dried, the entire wall is primed with a deep penetration compound;
• When the primer is dry, you can start applying the putty. To do this, the dry gypsum mixture is poured into a bucket of water (about half) and the solution is kneaded with a drill with a mixer nozzle. The material is brought to the consistency of thick fat sour cream;

• With the help of a wide metal spatula, the putty is applied in an even thin layer over the entire surface of the wall. After the layer has dried, it is rubbed with a polyurethane or emery float to a state of an even, uniform surface;

• For painting, a leveling finishing layer is applied to the first layer of putty, which is then also sanded with a float. It is convenient to use an electric grater with replaceable abrasive inserts;

• The sanded putty is painted or pasted over with wallpaper.

Important! Do not forget to cut holes in the expanded polystyrene for sockets and switches during the installation process.

Outdoor work

For outdoor work, polystyrene foam is also used, which is mounted:

• either by wet method followed by plastering or other facing;
• or placed under a ventilated facade.

When laying wet, the work procedure does not differ from a similar coating interior walls... The only difference is the use of facade plasters and putties at the finishing stage.

In addition, after gluing the reinforcing mesh, it is possible to install facade types of cladding:

• stone,
• tiles,
• porcelain stoneware and others.

With the frame structure of the facade, the insulation is placed between the frame slats, fixed with glue and dowels (sometimes a gap is left between the wall and the foam plate, fixing the sheets between the slats with mounting foam) and all the cracks and joints are filled with sealant or foam.

• block house,
• lining,
• panels made of metal or plastic,
• porcelain stoneware, etc.

Important! When using expanded polystyrene as an external insulation, it is important to choose a non-combustible material, since otherwise the facade may catch fire with the release of poisonous smoke.

Conclusion

Penoplex can be used for interior and exterior wall decoration in order to warm them. It is easy to work with this material, our instructions will suit even a novice builder ().

The incomprehensible points are clarified by the video in this article.

Good day. I again come to you with artificial stones from Penoplex or Polyprostyrene. Made by M.K. Short Svetlana - Vidio M.K. "Magnets". - here she tells in detail how to work with him. It is similar to Styrofoam, but stronger and does not crumble and cuts very well.
1. I bought a sheet of Penoplex - size 1m. by 1.50cm. - very lightweight. The thickness is 2 cm, it can be different from 1.5 to 5 cm thick, but I don't need a thick one on the wall. ...

2. Measured the wall, just enough and a little left, I will make an Image.
3. I put the sheet on the table, and marked it with a felt-tip pen and put the numbering - so that later I would not get confused when I glue it on the wall.

4. I began to cut with a knife - I kept the knife straight, it is cut well. easy.

5. Disconnected and began to cut corners - imitating the structure of the stone - M.K. Short Svetlana, Vidio M.K. "Magnets". He tells and shows very well how to cut corners to get a stone. I cut it with a knife - it is easy to cut, there is almost no debris, it does not crumble.

6. Form the stones and put them on the table by numbers.

7. I primed the wall with a primer for walls. when the primer has dried, she spread the finishing putty - like liquid sour cream and began to spread a pebble and glue it to the wall - it adheres well. I started with number 1 and in order.

8. Rubbed seams with putty. Where the seams turned out to be narrow - the stones were not laid out - I cut them right on the wall, or turned out to be longer than necessary - I also cut them - they cut well.

9. Everything is dry. I painted it with brown acrylic paint with the addition of white. 9 in my kitchen the opposite wall was made to look like an artificial stone from a solution and I matched it to the color.

Wall against the window. I matched it to the color.

10. The brown paint dried and I tinted with a light one. After 5 minutes, she wiped it off with a damp sponge to even out the color a little.