Water floor in a wooden house cons. How to make a warm floor on a wooden base: installation tips. Common mistakes to avoid

There is an opinion among homeowners that it is simply impossible to arrange a warm floor on a wooden floor. Moreover, they believe that there is no need for it at all. These people support their point of view by the fact that wood, as a natural material, is itself a heat and energy saving material. The warm floor, as they believe, cannot be mounted due to the deformation of wooden elements, which should occur with constant changes in humidity and temperatures. However, experts have already managed to find ways to solve the arising problems, which makes it possible to use a modern underfloor heating system even with a plank floor.

Warm water floors are no longer a rarity in houses with wooden floors. It is clear that reliability concrete base no one is going to challenge, but far from everywhere there is an opportunity to equip it. For such cases, an alternative underfloor heating system is excellent, the installation of which is much easier than laying the screed.

In addition to the relative simplicity of providing heating, this approach has a large set of significant advantages, the main of which are as follows:

• the internal space of the rooms is not reduced, which could suffer in the case of installation, which occupies a small, but sensitive volume for rooms with low ceilings;
• there is no need to perform rather dirty work, the production of which requires the laying of a concrete base.

Do-it-yourself installation of a water floor is carried out directly on a wooden base or on a polystyrene coating. For pipe laying, special recesses are made in the wood of the floorboards. To ensure a higher efficiency of heating the room, the laid pipes are usually supplemented with special metal plates. The system laid in this way is covered with a waterproofing material. The resulting thermal cake is covered with a suitable topcoat for the specific conditions.

Since the thickness of such a system is small, it does not take up the volume and height of the heated room at all.

Features of installing a warm floor on a wood base

The mechanics of room heating, which is embedded in a warm water floor, is quite understandable: the heating system transfers its heat first to the material that covers it, and then to the finishing coating. The very same room is heated by the already warm exterior floor finish.

This principle of heating does not give any failures, provided that the floor is covered. concrete screed... If the pipes of the heating system are laid in wood, then the heat transfer process is disturbed, since wood is a good natural heat insulator. Naturally, the very fact of the possibility of laying a warm floor on a wood base is beyond doubt, but it should be borne in mind that heating the room will not be as effective as in the presence of concrete. On the other hand, the wood will reliably protect the cellar room from overheating, which is especially important when they are used to store homemade preparations and vegetables.

There is no need to regret the absence of a concrete screed, for the reason that it could cause a lot of pressure on the plank floor, which could simply not withstand the mass of the concrete monolith.

An additional difficulty affecting the installation of such a heating system is the need to lay the substrate, the presence of which is an immutable law. However, even with all of the above points, installing a water-heated floor on a plank base is a completely feasible task. To do this, you just need to have sufficient patience and knowledge of the specifics available when performing these works.

Advantages of a tieless underfloor heating

The installed underfloor heating system is lightweight. It is capable of effectively heating people in the room, preheating the structures and elements adjacent to it. It doesn't take much time and effort to equip such a system. In the case of its laying, there is no need to wait about a month, as is the case when installing a concrete screed to ensure its complete solidification.

The heating system installed in this way is ready for use immediately after installing the topcoat. Carpet or linoleum is used to cover the heating system laid on the floor. If it fits in, then the finishing can be ceramic tiles.

The nuances that must be considered when laying a warm floor on a wooden floor

The most common and most affordable technology for laying a warm floor is its installation by the method of flooring, when pipes intended for circulation of the coolant are laid on logs or rough boards, having previously prepared special channels there.

A more efficient heating of the room is ensured by laying special metal plates on the floor, the recesses of which coincide with the grooves prepared in the wooden base. Such plates, which increase the heating efficiency, at the same time eliminate the need to lay any substrate.

Performing the installation of a warm floor on your own, you can not spend on rather expensive metal plates, but replace them with foil having a thickness of about 200 microns. However, if executed finishing using linoleum or tiles, the presence of a backing is a must. Gypsum fiber or cement-bonded particle boards can serve as a substrate.

The procedure for laying pipes that form a floor heating system

Pipe-laying can be done in two ways, differing in the design of the channels intended for pipe-laying. The elements behind these methods are modules and rails.

In the case of using the first option, the purchase of ready-made modules made of chipboard is required. Such modules already have special recesses prepared in advance, the distance between which is determined by the desired amount of space heating.

Such modular systems as part of their kit, as a rule, have everything you need:

• modules with grooves prepared in them;
• pipes;
• fasteners;
• metal plates.

The assembly of the structure is carried out according to the scheme accompanying the purchased kit.

However, the modular approach is quite expensive. For this reason, many people prefer the more budgetary method, which consists in stuffing slats that replace chipboard sheets and cut from boards or plywood. The diameter of the grooves in the slats should significantly exceed the size of the pipes laid in them and be much more than 17 mm. Thanks to this condition, it is possible to prevent pipe damage caused by the movement of the wooden base. The width of the slats is determined by the distance between the pipes laid in them.

Using a mixed method of installing a warm floor

Some craftsmen use a method that combines the advantages of rack and pinion and modular options. Using this method makes it easy to install underfloor heating without spending significant amounts of money.

The work begins with the fact that a groove is selected in the edged board for laying pipes. Then a distance of 7 cm or more is measured from the wall, at which a recess is made with a cutter to bring the pipe into the next row. The thickness of the boards used must be more sizes the sample made in them. Their width should be equal to the pitch used when laying pipes. The strips are attached to the logs with self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to lay the rough base using this method.

Light rail heating system

If the system is installed on an old floor, the latter must be thoroughly inspected and, if necessary, repaired. Each of the floorboards should be lifted and the condition of the joists should be checked. Worn or damaged structural elements should be replaced or restored. Sometimes wooden beams are nailed to the floor beams, insulation is often laid.

For this purpose, you can use polyethylene, which is overlapped. When laying to the walls along the perimeter of the entire floor covering, it is necessary to attach a damper tape, the width of which should be about 5 cm. The most convenient method of laying pipes for a warm floor with a water circuit is a "snake".

Before starting work, a plan of the room is drawn, where the place of the piping is precisely indicated, as well as the place of installation of the regulating equipment. The location of the guides should be marked on the plan and the required gaps should be indicated, the size of which, as a rule, ranges from 0.15 m to 0.3 m. When laying, the most convenient is the use of corrugated pipes Ø 16 mm. The slats are made based on the dimensions required for each specific condition.

Underfloor heating is laid on the joists. When installing the guides, channels are left between them for installing the pipeline.

It is convenient to fasten the guides to the rough base using self-tapping screws. In places where pipes are bent, the corners of the strips must be rounded off. Foil with a thickness of 50 microns or more is placed in the prepared grooves. You can use a stapler to fix it. Then, pipes of the heating system are placed in the channels formed in this way. When attaching the formed blocks, you can use pre-prepared metal plates.

After finishing laying the system, it is necessary to connect it to the heating pipes and pressurize all existing joints. After making sure that the underfloor heating system is functioning properly, you can proceed with the installation of the selected finish. In the case of laying the substrate, it is better to use DSP boards that do not contain formaldehyde.

Thus, you are convinced that the warm water floor can well be installed on its own on the surface of the wood floor. The implementation of these works is facilitated due to the possibility of using rails or ready-made modules during the laying process.

The best option for laying on a warm floor is laminate.

The techniques described in the article are presented visually in the following video.

Video of installation of a warm floor on a wooden base

You can use our instructions and make yourself a warm floor if you have a wooden house. Comfortable stay in the house you are guaranteed, since the wooden floor and the house itself will be warm.

Warm water floor is one of the most effective heating devices for premises, but its profitability indicator is far from being at the optimal level. When installing such systems in wooden houses, there are a number of significant limitations. The screed cannot be used, since the plank base may not withstand such a strong load. However, there are others effective ways of how to make an independent electric underfloor heating in a wooden house without loads on the base.

Warm floor in a wooden house

If we take into account the buildings of the old model, then wooden floors were used during their construction. In this case, it is possible to use a concrete screed, on the surface of which the warm floor will be placed. In the case of a private house, such manipulations are impossible. Often we are talking about weak and time-shattered wooden floors, which are not able to withstand significant loads.

If it was decided to use electrical systems for space heating, then the following important points should be taken into account:

1. Wood is classified as a highly flammable material. That is why, as far as possible (apartments), you should use the infrared type of warm floors.
2. Such devices are not capable of replacing the heating system, so you should take care of heating radiators.
3. Low thermal conductivity, which will lead to the use of an increased temperature regime.

What requirements apply to underfloor heating

Underfloor heating requirements

If it was decided to install an electric underfloor heating in a wooden house, special attention should be paid to compliance with safety rules, which will eliminate the possibility of unforeseen and dangerous situations in the future.

Basic Rules:

1. Do not place the cable under interior items. Violation will lead to overheating of the device and its breakdown.
2. When using species such as oak or beech, the thickness of the boards should not exceed the 2.5 cm mark, and larch and pine 2.3 cm.
3. To avoid the formation and retention of moisture (condensation), you will need to lay a solid waterproofing layer. Any electrical equipment does not tolerate water, and heated floors are no exception.
4. The thermostat will help to avoid possible overheating of the structure. It should be equipped with an air cushion and temperature sensors. This will prevent self-ignition. For wooden floors, the maximum temperature is 40 ° C.
5. The installation of the cable is carried out evenly, which will ensure the same heating of all areas.

In a room where floor heating systems are installed, it is not recommended to use any kind of carpet. This will create an unnecessary insulation layer that will prevent heat from entering the room.

What installation technologies are used

Underfloor heating installation technology

There are only two options for laying a warm floor: with and without a screed. Everything will depend on the strength indicators of the base of the room or the building as a whole. In this case, some other additional factors should be taken into account, such as the age of the building and the frequency of use of the room.

Lack of screed

Warm floor for a wooden house

If you plan to install warm floors in a wooden house, then the use of a screed is not recommended due to its enormous weight. The technology used is somewhat different from the usual one. To begin with, the necessary preliminary work is carried out aimed at cleaning and preparing the working surface. A lag is being installed, under which it is necessary to lay a heat-insulating material (at least 4.5 cm), on which one of the sides will be foil. A mounting mesh is placed on top to help secure the cable used.

Important! If desired, you can use a special laminate in which the TEP cable is already installed. However, you should be prepared for the substantial costs of purchasing it.

Installation is carried out with loops, the marking of which is carried out on the logs, in which cuts are made for the loops. The cable itself is mounted in the prepared cuts and secured with clamps. At some distance from the floor (convenient for a person), a temperature regulator is installed, and the sensor is placed between the logs. After completing the performance check of each of the system elements, you can start laying the topcoat. There must be a layer of at least 5 cm from the device to the coating.

Using the screed

Screed for underfloor heating in a wooden house

The wooden floor should be made smooth and even (monolithic). The tree should not walk, therefore, any loosening should be excluded. If necessary, the structure is completely disassembled and reassembled. After that, a waterproofing material is laid (polyethylene with a density of 200 microns). Thermal insulation should be placed on it ("tizol" is perfect). The foil side should be facing up. The cable is installed over the thermal insulation material. Fasteners are made with a pre-calculated step using hinges. After installation, the cable is filled with a cement-based solution. But before that, it is recommended to install a thermostat and a temperature sensor. It is placed between the hinges.

Installation features

Installation of underfloor heating in a wooden house

There are a number of features that should be worked out even before starting installation work. Wooden houses require a particularly careful approach, because the additional weight can lead to distortion or shrinkage of the structure. The heating system will be laid on logs.

The sequence of work will look like this:

• arrangement of a rough covering;
• laying a vapor barrier layer;
• installation of waterproofing material;
• finishing processing;
• soundproofing;
• flooring.

Inside this pie, the floor heating system will be placed. If all the upcoming work is planned to be carried out independently, then you should pay attention to one of the following methods:

1. The use of reflective plates. This is a kind of compromise if it is necessary to carry out a screed based on concrete mortar... The plates will help direct heat flows in the right direction, thereby increasing the efficiency rate.
2. Small ventilation gap. It can only be used as an additional heat source in the presence of centralized heating. A powerful system cannot be used in this case. Existing ducting will reduce the efficiency of the installed equipment.
3. Screed over the existing floor. This method is classified as complex and requires preliminary preparation. The thermal insulation properties of the screed are at the proper level, which will significantly increase the efficiency of space heating. Such manipulations are recommended to be carried out in rooms with a high level of humidity or if you plan to install tiles or any other cold coating.
4. Skillful combination of concrete and dry screed. Using the two most common technologies at the same time will make a surface that will be able to withstand any load.

Regardless of the final choice of the preferred technology, it is important to strictly follow the existing instructions and listen to all the wishes of the manufacturer.

Installation work

Installation work when laying a warm floor

Experts recommend laying the system under a small layer of screed. Thus, tiles or any other types of cold coverings can be installed as flooring. Arrangement of the underlying layer is mandatory and this will require high-quality thermal insulation materials, the surface of which is metallized. The main stages of laying a warm floor are similar to the installation of a heated water floor. The sub-base acts as a solid base regardless of the technology used.

The device is connected to special sensors, then to the mains and covered with floorboards. A cement screed may not be used, because it can add significant weight to the main structure. But in this case, you will have to equip the rough floor. To begin with, guides are mounted, between which heat-insulating material is laid. A welded mesh is laid on top of it, on which the power cable is placed. It must be placed at the same level.

Cut slots are used where it intersects. Their bottom is lined with foil, and clamps and mounting tape act as fasteners. After that, you should proceed with the arrangement of the finishing coating, for which it is customary to use a bar or a board with spike-grooves as joints. Sheet pile boards are also useful. Before proceeding with the arrangement of the finishing coating, you must connect the system to the network and leave it turned on for several days.

The most common mistakes when arranging

Errors when laying underfloor heating

If a beginner gets down to business, then difficulties can arise at every step. The secrets of success lie in the details, which should be learned before starting the work ahead. It is necessary to understand that one has to work with electrical appliances that have an increased level of danger. This type of flooring is designed to heat the surface of the floor covering, thereby creating the much-needed home comfort. The design will be based on a mat or two-core cable. The length should be calculated in advance, since it is not recommended to cut it yourself.

In most cases, problems arise precisely due to non-observance of the indicated technologies and violation of the rules for carrying out installation work.

The square of the room will also play an important role. The area that will be warmed up and the one on which the furniture or plumbing is located is calculated separately. It is strictly forbidden to install the cable under furniture, since the system will work to warm up the bed or cabinet, and not the surrounding space. This will lead to an early breakdown due to huge and regular loads. The work surface must be pre-cleaned and prepared. Loops should not touch or intersect.

It is also recommended to avoid bends. It is forbidden to step on the cable, as internal deformation of the wires is possible and their subsequent short circuit and loss of elasticity. It is not recommended to place the temperature sensor in the thickness of concrete, since a corrugated pipe is used for this. Wait until the solution used is completely dry before switching on. It is not recommended to dry the screed with the device.

Conclusion

Laying underfloor heating in a wooden house

Laying a warm electric floor in a wooden house can be carried out in several ways, based on time-tested schemes. Any technology can be used to create a cozy atmosphere in a wooden house. If you adhere to the recommendations indicated by the manufacturer and follow the safety rules, then installing a warm floor will not take much time and effort, not to mention saving the family budget.

In fact, no matter what skeptics say, arranging a warm water floor in a wooden house from a bar is not only a possible, but also a reasonable solution to the heating issue. Of course, you will have to take into account certain nuances associated with the operation of a wooden house.

So, for example, it is forbidden to heat floors over 30 degrees. A wooden surface under the influence of high temperatures is easily deformed, turns into dust. Therefore, a water heat-insulated floor on a wooden base must not be connected to the central heating circuit, but a separate heat source must be used for this purpose.

A warm water floor cake in a wooden country house severely limits the use of a concrete screed. The heating system will have to be laid dry, which also creates certain inconveniences.

When choosing a floor covering, it should be borne in mind that some popular decoration Materials: laminate, parquet board - when heated above 25 ° C, they begin to emit toxic fumes of formaldehyde.

Water Heated Wood Floor Options

There are several options for arranging underfloor heating in a wooden house. The choice of installation method is chosen depending on the technical characteristics of the building.

Common installation methods are:

• Mats - represent ready-made structures with grooves for laying the water circuit. The mats can be laid on a flat base of the floor. To do this, the surface is preliminarily trimmed using plywood or QSB boards. Modular floor does not require use cement mixtures... From above polypropylene pipes close the DSP, lay the floor covering.
• Installation of warm concrete water floors on top of wooden structures. Before installation, ensure maximum insulation of wooden elements from moisture. All work is carried out exclusively with ready-made compounds with a short drying period.
• Milling a wooden floor for pipes of the underfloor heating system. With the help of machine cutters, recesses are cut out for the passage of the pipeline. The wooden base begins to function as mats. As a result, flooring component costs are reduced. The disadvantage of milling is the laboriousness of the process. But with a specialized tool, installation time can be minimized.

Other methods can be used to lay water-heated floors on a wooden floor. There is the following way. In a wooden frame, a pipeline is simply laid under the logs. The plank floor is dismantled, the water circuit is laid, after which the flooring is laid back.

How to make water floors in a wooden house

The device of a warm water floor on a wooden floor with your own hands is practically no different from the structures used in other buildings. An exception is the special safety measures required to protect wooden surfaces from moisture ingress.

Practice has shown that the best option would be to use polypropylene pipes.

Installation work is carried out as follows:

Which floor coverings are suitable

The choice of material is limited both by subsequent operation and by the method of manufacturing the heating system.

Traditionally, the following types of flooring are used:

• Ceramic tiles - the advantage of ceramics is rapid surface heating and high heat transfer. The use is limited to the hallway, bathroom, kitchen and non-residential areas. When choosing ceramic tiles, heated floors must be screed or covered with cement-bonded particleboards.
• Laminate and parquet boards - there are two types of installation of hot water heating on wooden floors: on mats or prepared grooves. Laminate or parquet can be laid regardless of the installation method. The only drawback of the floor covering is the impossibility of heating the surface above 25 ° C.
• Ordinary board - you can also lay a water-heated floor on wooden beams with your own hands, laying the boards over the water contour. The solution does not require serious material investments. This method is chosen if it is not possible to reduce the distance to the ceiling. Subsequently, it is possible to additionally cover linoleum or laminate.

What tool is required for installation

To install the water circuit you will need:

1. Roulette.
2. Plastic pipes and fittings.
3. A set of locksmith and construction tools.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Milling machine.

Installation of a concrete underfloor heating on wooden floors will additionally require:

1. Perforator.
2. Rules.
3. Angle grinder for cutting reinforcement.
4. Construction level.

To work with wooden surfaces a set of cutters and drills, a powerful drill will come in handy.

What mistakes should be avoided during installation

The design features on a wooden base are that any violations and changes in the phased installation of heating will lead to problems in operation. Condensation and leaks are critical.

The pipe-laying system prevents the following violations:

Warm floors for a wooden house are a smart solution. Provided that the recommendations for installation are followed, possible difficulties in the process of future operation can be avoided.

Water heat-insulated floor in a wooden house and with wooden beams

In recent years, underfloor heating systems have gained immense popularity among both cottage owners and private house owners. A water-heated floor in a wooden house has many nuances, since concrete is rarely used for the construction of cottages to create a strong and high-quality foundation. For the construction of such buildings and structures, more traditional materials and methods are often used.

Few people can be surprised by the presence of a concrete screed and low-temperature heating installed in it. Thanks to numerous positive reviews, such systems are often used as an additional and even the main heating system. separate rooms and the whole house as a whole. Until recently, many home owners wondered: is it possible to install water-heated floors in wooden houses with wooden floors, because they simply are not designed for a weight that is more than 200 kg per square meter. The optimal scheme for such a device appeared relatively recently.

System overview

Is it possible to install such a system

Despite what some experts say, the installation of such equipment is not only possible, but also an extremely reasonable solution. In order to properly install a warm floor in a private house, it is necessary to understand some of the features of its installation and the operational characteristics of the house itself, built of wood. For example, do not heat your work surface more than 30 ° C. This is due to the fact that wood does not tolerate high temperatures and their effect on it leads to deformation. Over time, such material will turn into dust and simply crumble.

No screed needed

Therefore, the use of underfloor heating is better not in combination with central heating, but with a separate heat source. The use of a boiler implies the creation of a "pie" of the warm floor, which will not allow the use of an additional layer of screed. In this case, the installation will have to be carried out dry, then the beige directly onto the beams and this is extremely inconvenient. In this case, absolutely different materials, such as:

However, when these materials are heated to 25 ° C and above, they begin to generate vapors containing formaldehyde.

Some manufacturers understand the need to use multiple heating circuits at the same time. In this case, we are talking about different intensities of heating the surface. They produce a series of boilers that allow similar connections for underfloor heating and heating radiators.

Types of structures intended for wooden houses

There are several ways to equip warm floors. If we are talking exclusively about warm water floors, then the installation of pipes can be carried out in the following ways:

• Using the classical method, in which pipes are laid directly into the concrete solution.

Screed scheme for lags

• But the use of a dry installation method involves laying pipes directly along the logs or existing floor beams.

Laying pipes on logs

A layer of cement screed is laid on top of such a contour, the thickness of which should be at least 25 cm.Before making a choice in favor of this or that method, one should study in more detail the design and main characteristics wooden houses... The concrete floor can be poured on the ground floor. It will play the role of a ceiling leading to the basement. In this case, the warm water floor should be laid directly under the screed, and not reinvent the bike.

The top layer can be any kind of flooring, up to ordinary wooden planks. However, this will lead to additional costs, since the absence of a concrete base will complicate the installation of the system. But if there are wooden floors in the house, then it is recommended to use an exclusively dry installation method.

This is because:

1. The weight of the concrete base is impressive. It makes a significant load on wooden beamswhich may not support the weight of such material. In addition to warm water floors in a wooden house, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the furniture.
2. If a wooden house is built correctly, then it should "breathe" on its own, performing the function of the lungs of the house. If the air is too dry or, on the contrary, very humid, then over time the material may lead. The consequences can be very significant, as this leads to cracking of the existing screed. In order to avoid such a result, a number of important measures should be taken that could compensate for the subsequent expansion of the contour. In addition to additional costs, this is fraught with complicated installation. If cracks have already started at the base, it is impossible to stop them.
3. Particular attention should be paid to buildings from wooden beams, which is very popular in modern construction. Often the material used is not completely dried. Over time, it will begin to dry out, which will inevitably lead to deformation or complete destruction of the concrete layer. Underfloor heating water will not help avoid this problem.

Warm floor under the beams - general image

System design

1. Boiler used for heating. If the choice fell on water floors, then it is possible to use a solid fuel, electric or gas equipped boiler. They are practical and comfortable enough. Their use implies the absence of a constant supply of fuel, which is used in wood and solid fuel boilers.
2. If you plan to create really warm home, it is recommended to use combined systems that will heat both the batteries and the floor covering. Its temperature regime may differ, since the temperature in radiators can reach 60 ° C, however, for wooden coatings, the maximum is considered to be 30 ° C. If this condition is not met, the tree will crack pretty soon.

How to make warm floors in a wooden house: device and installation options

Warm floors are an invention of the 20th century. Our great-grandfathers did not have a heating cable and gas boilers. However, they came up with their own way of heating. For this, they used the walls of buildings. While laying the masonry, they left channels in them for the movement of hot furnace gases.

Today, there is no need to resort to such tricks. You can make warm floors in a wooden house with minimal cost forces and means.

The choice of a heating heating system is very simple:

• Electrical cable or mats with flat current-carrying conductors;
• Warm floor based on plastic pipes with liquid heat carrier.

Both heating options have received positive reviews. They are equal in terms of comfort and heat dissipation, but not the same in terms of energy cost. Electricity is significantly more expensive than gas, so a heating cable for underfloor heating is best used in small rooms: bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. For bedrooms and living rooms, a liquid system from pipes, a gas or solid fuel boiler is optimal.

That warm floor better radiators a lot has been written and said.

We will just highlight its most important advantages:

• Optimal heat distribution. The zone of comfortable temperature coincides with the living space (from the floor surface to a height of 1.7 meters). When the batteries are running, the air is hottest in the ceiling.
• A radiator heating system activates the movement of dust to a greater extent than a warm floor.
• From the point of view of interior aesthetics, warm floors outperform radiators.

Features of the device of warm floors (water and electric) in a wooden house

The technology of laying a water-heated floor in a wooden house depends on the type of floor. If the first floor and basement are covered with reinforced concrete panels, then the heating system is made according to the "classical" scheme:

• leveling mortar screed;
• insulation (extruded polystyrene foam, perlite concrete);
• heating cable or plastic pipes;
• leveling screed covering the warm floor;
• topcoat (tiles, parquet, laminate).

It is more difficult to make a warm floor when wooden beams are used to cover the basement and the first floor. In this case, there is no solid base, so the structure is assembled according to one of two options:

Option number 1

• from below, a board is knocked out to the beams to support the insulation (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, ecowool, perlite);
• having laid the thermal insulation, plastic pipes are attached to the side faces of the beams;
• cutouts are made in the beams for the passage of pipes;
• lay a fine wooden floor from grooved boards or rough for laying parquet or laminate.

Option number 2

• thick plywood or OSB board (15-20 mm) is laid on the beams;
• wooden bars with a section of 50x50mm are attached to the coating;
• insulation is laid between the bars;
• laying a material that reflects heat (aluminum foil);
• pipes are placed on top of the thermal insulation, fixing them to the bars;
• mount a sub-floor from a board, gypsum fiber sheets (gvl), chipboards or plywood;
• lay the topcoat (ceramic tiles, parquet, laminate).

Advanced timber floor systems use heat dissipating metal plates. They serve two purposes: they form pipe channels and reflect heat.

To simplify installation, you can use ready-made chipboard plates with milled pipe recesses. In addition, on the market you can find panels made of dense polystyrene with stamped channels (foam shield). They fix the piping quickly and easily.

In the case of foam, there is no need to attach a plank to the beams to support the insulation. In this case, the hard insulation is attached directly to the surface of the subfloor. After that, a substrate is spread on it under the laminate or an adhesive solution is applied, then a reinforcing mesh and tiles are laid.

The main disadvantage of ready-made structures (foam board and milled chipboard) is their high cost. Therefore, some do-it-yourselfers use a cheaper method of channeling. They stuff wooden planks on the base, leaving gaps between them for laying pipes.

Instead of expensive thermoplastic plates, you can use available aluminum foil (this method is suitable for both water and electric underfloor heating).

Planks are made from planed boards or cut from moisture-resistant plywood. Their thickness must be greater than the diameter of the pipeline (17 mm pipe - 30 mm rail). To improve heat transfer, the channel width is made 5-6 millimeters larger than the pipe diameter.

The width of the slats is made 3 cm less than the selected pipe layout pitch (for example, pipe pitch 30 cm - board width 27 cm). For smooth bending of the pipeline loops, semicircular grooves are cut out in the strips.

Another way to lay a warm water floor with your own hands is shown in the diagram below.

In this case, the profiled sheet serves as a heat-reflecting screen and forms channels for pipes. In the diagram, we see a variant of the installation of a heating floor not above the basement, but on the first floor. From below, along the beams, a final filing of the ceiling from the lining was made. Therefore, the shield (10), which supports the insulation, is not attached to the lower edges of the beams, but to the cranial bars nailed to their sides.

Please note that when installing thermal insulation (except for foam), it is always protected from below and from above with a vapor barrier film. It protects the insulation from getting wet, since it allows water vapor to freely leave it.

Leaving a thermal gap between the edge of the flooring and the wall, you need to lay a damper tape in it. It seals the contact area and compensates for thermal deformations.

Helpful advice!

Use a chamber-dried board to lay the finished floor. Do not rush to fix the finishing wood flooring to the base. Until this moment, the warm floor must work for at least 2 days.

Installation of a "dry" electric floor heating in a wooden house is easier than installing a water system. A thin conductive cable does not need deep channels. It is fixed to the base with plastic ties-clamps or metal plates.

The installation sequence looks like this:

• A reflective layer of aluminum foil is laid on thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowool, perlite);
• A galvanized steel mesh with a mesh of 40x40 or 50x50 mm is laid on the foil.
• In the logs, slots are made for the passage of the electric cable;
• The cable is attached to the mesh with clamps;
• In the middle between the wires, a temperature sensor is installed in a corrugated tube and connected to a temperature regulator;
• On a fireproof base or in a metal hose, a power cable is led out to an electrical outlet;
• A sub-floor made of plywood is being laid;
• The top coat is mounted (laminate, parquet board).

If the electric underfloor heating is covered with ceramic tiles, the installation procedure changes. In this case, the insulation is covered with moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, fixing them to the beams. After that, a solution is applied to the coating with a spatula, a plastic reinforcing mesh is embedded in it and the tiles are glued. If the heating cable does not go in a bay, but is glued to the mesh, then its installation is simplified. Having rolled out the roll, you just need to apply glue to the surface of the base and lay the tiles.

In the same way, a film warm floor is laid on wooden floors. It is a thin mats with flexible conductive plates glued into them.

The minimum thickness allows infrared film floors to be installed not only under tiles and laminate, but also under linoleum and carpet.

What is the best floor in a wooden house?

The answer to this question is not unambiguous. If the cost of construction and work is at the forefront, then it is better to use electric floors. If we compare the price of energy carriers, then the water system is more profitable. To save the height of the room, a thin film floor is used.

With regard to heaters, the following should be said: foam for a warm floor is not the best material. Being in contact with a warm floor, the operating temperature of which can reach + 70C, it ages, emitting toxic gas... Therefore, it is better to lay ecowool or perlite between the floor beams.

Having chosen mineral wool for insulation, it must be well insulated by wrapping it with a vapor barrier. Otherwise, warm air through gaps and leaks can carry particles from the underground space into the room. It is better to use chemically neutral sheet material for laying tiles: cement-bonded, glass-magnesia board or gypsum fiber sheet. OSB and plywood are inferior to them in terms of environmental safety.

Wooden flooring above the warm floor should not be thicker than 21 mm. Do not forget that wood is a good heat insulator, which reduces the efficiency of the heating system.

Warm water floor in a wooden house

A wooden house, despite the archaism of the very idea of \u200b\u200busing wood as a building material, can present conditions become quite convenient and comfortable housing. For a summer residence, this type of structure is very convenient, and the emergence of new technologies, the construction of modular wooden houses, made wooden houses a successful and practical solution to the housing issue. Another question is what means of communication can be used to equip a wooden residential building. If this housing is long-term and designed for long-term and permanent residence, then heating of a residential building comes out on top.

First of all, the strength of the structure itself confuses. Are wooden structures, including floors, able to cope with the installation of additional heating equipment? Judging by successful practical experience, the use of water heating systems in wooden houses is realistic and no less effective. The installation of the boiler and heating radiators is already a completed stage. Consider the following, whether a warm water floor is suitable for installation in a wooden house as a complete heating system.

The value of underfloor heating for wooden residential buildings

Wooden houses being built today are not much inferior to capital stone structures. However if stone house, having concrete foundation and reinforced concrete floors can be equipped with any equipment and communications, with wooden structures the situation does not look so rosy. The whole problem is that, from a technological point of view, a warm water floor carries a significant structural load. Not every room has a sufficient margin of safety, thanks to which complex communications can be successfully mounted.

Water heating systems work by circulating the coolant through a pipe system laid in the floor. The mass of the entire working structure of warm water floors in working condition reaches large values.

Is the wooden floor of a country house able to withstand such a weight? Will the logs of the base of a wooden house with such a weight withstand, will such floors be reliable and durable? There are so many questions before you, but there are options that can quickly and effectively solve the problem. Laying systems for warm water floors are techniques that have shown themselves perfectly in a practical plane. Warm floors, due to their advantages, make wooden houses from ordinary temporary huts, full-fledged residential buildings.

• underfloor heating most optimally warm up the inner space of the living space;
• in the absence of conversion, with such heating, dust circulation inside the room is excluded;
• a wooden house, sufficiently well insulated and equipped with warm water floors, is reliably protected from such a phenomenon as damp corners;
• underfloor heating maintains optimal humidity conditions inside a wooden house;
• with this method of heating, the likelihood of burns is completely excluded, in contrast to the radiator heating system;
• economic indicators. Warm water floors in comparison with radiator heating reduce fuel consumption associated with the preparation of the heat carrier by 30%;
• significant savings in internal space;
• reliability, safety and durability of heating systems based on water floors.

Speaking of wooden houses, the only drawback of such a heating system is the bulkiness of the structure itself, the duration and painstaking work. However, subject to the necessary technologies, instructions and rules, the installation of a warm floor in a wooden house will not be associated with much trouble. The result of the work itself will be effective operation of heating equipment and significantly improved living conditions.

For reference: The underfloor heating water circuit, made of polyethylene pipes, can be used to work with antifreeze-based heat carrier. This heating option is ideal for country houses and country houses, designed for rare visits during the cold season. The pipeline filled with antifreeze is not subject to defrosting.

Methods for laying a water floor in a wooden house

The following should be said right away. A wooden house, no matter how strong it is, it a priori lacks stone load-bearing walls and ceilings. The only stone elements of a wooden building can be the foundation or the basement. but modern technologies small housing construction involves the minimum use of concrete work during the construction of a residential building.

On a note: block houses are assembled within 2-3 days. All structural elements, including internal partitions and floors, are designed for a certain load. It is only allowed to equip a stone foundation over time, thereby giving wooden building necessary strength, reliability and capitalism.

• according to a modular scheme;
• on a rack basis.

Accordingly, both options can be applied during the construction of panel and block houses. The water pipes are laid in the inter-lag space or on the rough floor surface resting on the lags. The modular and rack-and-pinion laying scheme have their own design and technological differences.

In the first case, ready-made wooden modules are used to lay the loop of the water circuit. In the second version, the heating pipes are mounted in the space between the boards and slats. The main feature when installing the first and second options is that you create a sub-floor in which the heating pipes are installed. On top of the prefabricated structure, metal heat exchange plates are laid, on which the already finished floor covering is laid.

On a note: when using ceramic tiles or linoleum, the rough surface, together with pipes and metal plates, is additionally covered with an insulating layer of particle board. This measure is caused by the need to ensure an even distribution of the load on the entire floor surface, to create conditions for uniform heat transfer between the water circuits and the topcoat.

Before starting work on the installation of underfloor heating, you will need to complete a number of mandatory actions, including the development of a heating system project and an examination of the building structural elements. This precaution is associated with the technological features of wooden structures. For instance:

• the wooden building shrinks within the first year. Approximately up to 5%. This remark must be taken into account when equipping warm floors during the construction of a wooden house;
• wood behaves differently in different climates. Excessive dryness, or vice versa, high humidity become the causes of cracking of wooden structures, the formation of rot and mold. Therefore, such houses should be built taking into account all the subtleties and nuances that provide protection of wooden structures from negative atmospheric influences.

With regard to the design of the heating scheme, here it is necessary to take into account the heated area, the degree of thermal insulation of residential premises and, accordingly, the climatic conditions of the region. Neglecting these aspects, you can get little as a result of painstaking and laborious work effective system heating, underfloor heating, which will be of little use.

On a note: the thermal efficiency of a residential building is one of the defining elements of a heating system. With competent actions, you can improve the efficiency of heating equipment by 15-20%. Insulation of wall panels, window and doorways is a prerequisite for high-quality heating of the house.

TO preparatory workprior to the installation of heating floors, the assessment of the base also applies. Not every building has the necessary technological parameters, thanks to which you can immediately start arranging the heating system. Planks of a wooden base, logs must lie correctly, have a "healthy" structure. Rotten areas or damaged whole fragments must be replaced with new products. An optimal distance of 60 cm is allowed between the logs. Large gaps existing between the boards, over 2 mm, are eliminated by laying insulating material.

For reference: if it can be visually determined that the wooden flooring or structural elements have exhausted themselves, it is better to dismantle them and create a new structure - the base.

When examining a base, pay attention to the following factors:

• does the wind “walk” under the floor;
• whether the lags lie evenly or at a great distance from each other;
• it is best to process old boards with a planer before installation, removing a layer of old and corroded wood;
• the entire deck surface must be leveled. The presence of irregularities is allowed, at least up to 2 mm.

Installation instructions for warm water floors in wooden buildings

After preparing the base, the main task is to create the necessary floor insulation in a wooden house. Properly made insulation retains heat and direct it upward, thereby heating the floor covering. Otherwise, you will be heating the basement or heating the ground in your garden.

A rough floor or raised floor is made in order to lay a layer of thermal insulation on it. Nailing sheets of plywood or chipboard to the logs from below, which are covered with steam and heat-insulating film. Further, all the internal space between the logs is filled with foam or mineral wool. Usually, the thickness of the insulation layer does not exceed 100 mm. The figure clearly shows the options for installing a water floor on a wooden structure.

Using a modular set scheme, you will spend significantly more time, but your floor will be an order of magnitude stiffer and stronger. You can choose which scheme to use, modular or rack. And in the first and in the second case, everything is decided by the level of comfort that you expect when equipping the heating system in one or another room.

The modular type of laying allows you to correctly lay the water circuit, observing the required pipe pitch and the layout scheme. In addition, the metal plates will be securely fixed, there is no need to lay an additional leveling layer before laying the topcoat. The modules are very convenient for equipping indoor water floors, laid with a snake. A similar scheme for laying the heating pipeline is also suitable for the rack type.

Important! You should know that the metal plates are laid transversely to the grooves in which the water pipe is laid.

Conclusion

As in all cases, laying underfloor heating in this case is not complete without a layer of hydro and thermal insulation. Underfloor heating can be done using metal-plastic, copper and polyethylene pipes. Here it is important to know what will go where. For the first floor, copper pipes can be dispensed with, but their cost is quite high even with high temperature coolant, there is a high probability of damage to the integrity of the insulating layer.

Do-it-yourself water heating in a wooden house

The main criteria for the installation of warm floors are functionality, economic feasibility, fire safety. All these requirements are met by a water-heated floor in a wooden house.

The water floor can be the main and / or only source of heat and an additional one (together with batteries). The installation of a water-heated floor in a wooden house quickly pays for itself: there are practically no operating costs (unlike electric floors).

The risk of fire is also less than with an electric floor. A water source of fire can only be a boiler. But it is installed in an open way and equipped with control devices.

System elements and device

1. Heating boiler (gas, electric, solid fuel, etc.). The most economical heating is with a gas boiler. It is also the most convenient: you do not need to constantly replenish the fuel reserves in the firebox, unlike solid fuel boilers or wood-burning stoves.

If the house is supposed to combined heating (batteries + floor), you need to arrange two heating circuits. The temperature regime for radiators and floors is different: in radiators it can be 60 degrees or more, and a water-heated floor in a wooden house with wooden floors functions at a temperature of no more than 30 degrees. Otherwise, the wood will begin to crack.

2. Water flows from the boiler to the pipes through a distribution manifold with control valves. If the dimensions of the house and the pipeline are small, you can limit yourself to manual adjustments. With a large length of pipes and a large number of individual circuits, a main manifold with automatic adjustment is installed.

3. A circulation pump for forced water supply and a pressure gauge to control the pressure in the system.

4. Thermostat with a temperature sensor.

5. Pipes. Optimally - metal-plastic: metal pipes (copper, stainless steel) are more expensive, and installation is more difficult, because many welded joints will be required. The reinforced-plastic floor is sold in a bay, it only needs to be unwound in accordance with the diagram.

An alternative to metal-plastic is polypropylene. Also sold in bays. Soldering, if necessary, is carried out with a polypropylene iron.

The optimal pipe thickness is 1.6-2 centimeters.

Installation methods

With a screed. In a wooden house, this method is possible when installing the floor on the ground.

If there is a log or a subfloor, a water-heated floor is installed in a wooden house without a screed, because wooden parts will not support the weight of the mortar.

When installing without screed, sheets of chipboard, OSB or waterproof plywood are used as the basis for the flooring. Installation is possible in a modular or rack manner.

In the modular method, ready-made chipboards are used with locks for fastening to each other and milled grooves for laying pipes.

With the rack-and-pinion method, the stacker forms the pipe channels itself.

Another way of installation without screed is using polystyrene mats. Mats are panels made of PPS insulation with already equipped pipe channels.

During installation, three layers of cake are required: waterproofing, insulation, heat-reflecting foil (or metal plates). These layers prevent heat from escaping to the ground or lower rooms.

Preparing for installation

When installing on the ground, at the preliminary stage, a rough screed is poured. A sand and gravel cushion is poured, waterproofing (polyethylene or roofing material) is placed on it, the solution is poured, leveled and the concrete is allowed to set.

When installing without screed, remove the floor covering. If the floor is in order and there is a layer of insulation under it, with which everything is also in order, you can start installation.

If the subfloor is rotten, there is no insulation between the logs - the boards are removed. If necessary, dismantle the logs.

1. Lay a waterproofing film.
2. Insulation plates are installed tightly between the logs.
3. Above - a vapor barrier film with low vapor permeability or polyethylene lined with foil. The foil film is placed on top with a reflective surface, the vapor barrier - with a rough side (discharge).
4. On top, either chipboard sheets with ready-made grooves for pipes are installed, or moisture-resistant plywood is placed, which will be the basis for the installation of polystyrene foam mats.

Read what a support - columnar foundation is.

Mounting

Attention: installation of a water-heated floor in a wooden house is carried out in all rooms separately. One floor section should be no more than 40 square meters. For rooms with a larger area, two sections are made.

Laying the base

Chipboard modules are also laid according to the scheme, connected with tongue-and-groove locks. Pipes are laid in the channels.

In the rack-and-pinion method, chipboard slats about three centimeters high in two centimeters increments are attached to the laid plywood (plates). It is necessary to ensure that the grooves in the places where the pipe is turned are rounded.

After mounting the base, a reflective foil layer is placed. Other options: fit heat-reflecting plates.

Pipe laying

There are two schemes for laying the working contour: spiral and snake. The snake is led in zigzags from one wall to the other, opposite. The floor against this wall will be colder because as it moves along the contour, the coolant cools down.

The spiral provides uniform heating over the entire area: the first (hottest) loop is placed along the cold walls, and the cooled area is located in the center of the room, where it is warmer. From the center, the pipe is led in the opposite direction, the same turns are repeated in parallel. At the finish line, they are connected to the return manifold.

A gap of at least seven centimeters should be left between the outer pipe coil and the walls.

Before installing the topcoat, the system must be tested for leaks: connect to a manifold, fill with water and hold for about a day.

The pipes are fastened with narrow aluminum plates laid across the groove.

If laminate flooring is used as the finishing cladding, a backing is usually placed on the chipboard. The laminate can be laid on a polystyrene base without a backing.

Floor installation with screed

For a fine screed, you can use a mixture based on M-300 cement. Plasticizers and polypropylene fiber are added to the solution. Another option is to buy a ready-made screed mix.

1. Lay a waterproofing layer on the rough screed.
2. Lay damping tape along all walls at the joints with the floor. If at least one wall is longer than eight meters, the tape is additionally placed in the middle of the room. This is a must because when heated, thermal expansion of concrete begins. In the absence of a damper, the floor will open.
3. Lay the insulation. An approximate layer is 10 cm, the exact one depends on the heat calculation and on the characteristics of the material (density, thermal conductivity).
4. Reinforcing mesh is laid.
5. The pipe is laid in turns with a pitch of 15-30 cm. Attached to the mesh cells with plastic clamps with a pitch of thirty centimeters.
6. The system is tested for leaks and performance.
7. Pour the screed 5-7 centimeters. If the floor is facing high loads, another reinforcing mesh is placed in the screed during the pouring process. Wait for the concrete to harden (about a month).
8. Lay the topcoat: laminate with or without backing, ceramic tiles.

As a wood covering, you can use a planed board instead of a laminate, but its thermal conductivity is lower than that of laminates for warm floors.

You cannot lay a parquet board, it will dry out quickly. In addition, in the production of parquet and parquet boards, chemical compositions are often used that reduce the environmental friendliness of the coating: when heated, it will emit toxic volatile substances.

The boards should be laid with gaps to compensate for thermal expansion.

conclusions

1. It is possible to mount a water-heated floor in a wooden house with your own hands under a screed only when laying on the ground. When installed above the basement, on the second or third floor, the floor method is used over the subfloor.
2. For underfloor heating and heating with radiators, independent circuits are needed.
3. The number of underfloor heating sections depends on the number of heated rooms and the area of \u200b\u200beach of them.
4. A pie made of waterproofing, insulation and a heat-reflecting layer should be located under the pipes.

Video about the installation of a water-heated floor in a wooden house.

Long burning oven

Underfloor heating is one of the most popular heating methods today, used both independently and together with other systems. The laying technology has been studied and perfected, but it is used mainly on the first floors due to the large weight of the cement screed traditionally used to fill the highway. In order to fearlessly lay underfloor heating on wooden floors, without fear that the base will "play", the Finns came up with an original technology. And users of FORUMHOUSE adapted it to their needs and possibilities. Our craftsmen willingly tell everyone how to install water heated floors in a private house on wooden logs.

• Variations on the original theme
• System installation

Dry screed: lightweight warm floors

Dry screed is a technology by which a warm floor on logs is laid without filling with cement mortar. In a conventional system, the screed acts not only as a retainer, but also as a conductor - due to its high thermal conductivity, it effectively transfers heat upward. But due to its heavy weight, it cannot be used on lags. By finnish technology in a dry screed, this function is performed by gypsum plasterboards in three layers - as a base, between pipe loops, as the end of the "pie". This allows for a lighter construction. The voids between the pipes and sheets are covered with tile glue, the top layer is attached to it.

The design is lightweight, the load on the floors is within the normal range, and in the event of a leak, the line can be repaired.

Do-it-yourself water floors in a wooden house.

Variations on a theme

In our country, on the basis of Finnish technology, which facilitates the design and makes it possible to abandon the monolithic pouring, its variations appeared - the principle remained, but the materials were added:

• Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) - in comparison with gypsum plasterboards, they are denser, stronger for bending and deformation, contain cellulose fibers and other additives that increase them specifications... For wet rooms, a moisture-resistant variety (GVLV) is used;

Тishin FORUMHOUSE Member

In such a floor, instead of drywall, it is better to use gypsum fiber sheets (GVL). I myself am now considering a dry screed for implementation in my home, I will only replace the bottom layer with OSB. I will assemble the middle part from two layers of gypsum fiber board.

• Particleboard, OSB (OSB), plywood - in terms of heat transfer, such a structure turns out to be worse, since wood and its derivatives act as an insulator. Ready-made sets of underfloor heating are sold on a dry screed made of chipboard sheets, with grooves selected for the hinges, but not everyone will master their cost.

boatmaster FORUMHOUSE Member

Lags, with a step of 60 cm, plus insulation - 35 cm, OSB base, then a 20 mm pipe, plus a 5 mm clip, it turns out 25 mm, three layers of GVLV between pipes 12x3 \u003d 26 mm.

• Cement particle board (DSP);
• EPPS - pipes are laid directly into the insulation, and the voids are covered with glue. Foil or similar material is used to increase the heat transfer of the elements;

The thickness of the sheets for the middle layer with the main line is selected based on the diameter of the pipe, so that after filling with glue, a flat surface is obtained, and the final layer does not press on the pipe. Alternatively, two sheets are glued together if the thickness of one is not enough.

Forum users actively organize their underfloor heating systems on wooden floors.

Serg177 FORUMHOUSE Member

If something happens to the pipe (today, tomorrow or in 25 years), you won't have to break the tie. I will buy 50 sheets of plywood for 200 m², 18 mm thick, dissolve it into strips, at intervals - a 16 mm pipe, and on top - 200 sheets of ten to close the laminate.

One of the options for a do-it-yourself dry screed is laying pipes in special aluminum plates with grooves. They fit snugly around the pipes and increase heat dissipation. The disadvantage of this configuration is the high cost of these metal gaskets, their use increases the cost of the entire system.

Vladimir Tallinn Participant of FORUMHOUSE

There is a lack of special aluminum sheets that are placed under the pipe and bring heat up. They are standing at my place, they "hug" the pipe, the size is about 30 cm per meter, a groove for the pipe with sparse spikes to hold the pipe.

Gypsum-based sheets are one of the most popular, as the material is optimal in all respects.

• Are acceptable;
• Easy to cut into segments;
• Eco-friendly (do not contain synthetic binders like boards with wood fillers) and are suitable for household chores;
• Non-flammable;

System installation

By lags based on Finnish technology, it assumes a standard installation algorithm, regardless of the materials used in the work, be it gypsum board, GVL (V) or other plates.

evraz Member of FORUMHOUSE

Similar technologies, where pipes or a heating cable are smeared with a solution in the grooves of GVL and covered with an upper layer of GVL, are painted by many manufacturers of underfloor heating systems.

Water heat-insulated floor on logs in a wooden house.

Warming

The system should give off heat up, and not let it pass into the ceiling, which will lead to increased heating of the carrier and a decrease in efficiency. A vapor barrier is laid between the lags, on top is a layer of insulation (mineral wool, EPS), covered with a layer of vapor barrier. Insulation will protect both wood and insulation from condensation, provided that it is not just plastic wrap. Condensation will form in even greater quantities under a normal film.

Base

The optimal distance between the lags should be observed when the system is being mounted - 60 cm, in this case there is no need to create an additional crate to distribute the load, and the sheets form monolithic structure... Sheets are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws.

Highway

The footage and diameter of the pipe depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, heat loss, power of the equipment used to heat the coolant. The most popular range is 16-20 mm in diameter. The pipe pitch is also individual in each case, but on average - 100 mm, more often at the edges. The pipe is fastened with special metal or plastic brackets or hand-made clamps.

Warm water floors, wooden floors.

Styling

The space between the pipe contours is filled with segments cut from sheets; grooves should remain around the pipes for filling with glue. Optimal size groove - 3 pipe diameters, this is enough for maximum heat removal. Segments are screwed with self-tapping screws, with a step of 10 - 15 cm, the length of the fastener should be enough to fix it in the logs.

Filling

To fill the grooves, tile glue is most often used, a cement-sand mixture can be used, but when mixing it is necessary to use plasticizers. In order to increase adhesion, and the finishing layer of the "pie" is more firmly connected to the intermediate layer, it is recommended that after filling the joints with pipes, go over the entire surface with an adhesive mixture "for sdir". This is advice from a user under the nickname Vitaon, he is professionally engaged in the installation of such systems and shared his cunning with the forum users.

Vitaon FORUMHOUSE Member

Before the finishing layer, the surface consists of alternating strips of dry plasterboard and ditches filled with glue. Immediately before gluing, it is necessary to cover the entire surface with a putty, a wide spatula and a thin layer of glue - you get a homogeneous base. Apply glue on top under the final layer. With this method, adhesion increases many times over.

Finishing floor

The water floor on wooden logs allows you to practically use it in a private house, only cheap linoleum acts as a contraindication - it will smell noticeably with constant heating. The best option is ceramic tiles or laminate flooring. In the case of a laminate, the substrate does not fit under it, due to the thermal insulation properties.

Conclusion

Underfloor heating with a dry screed according to Finnish technology is a basic option that can be adjusted to specific conditions and needs. All the subtleties and nuances are in the subject. The article selects the most economical heating device. And in the video about engineering heating equipment - expert advice on choosing.

For country house, a wooden bathhouse, a floor heating system will become convenient and practical. Underfloor heating, water, the contour of which must be hidden in the underground, is capable of efficiently and efficiently heating fairly spacious living quarters. It is especially convenient for you to try to improve the habitability of your summer cottage, to create more comfortable conditions in the bath.

It is not possible to solve this engineering problem by laying water pipes under a concrete screed. Here it affects technological features the very structure and the very nature of the technology. Not every hardwood floor or log that lies at the base of a structure can withstand the enormous additional load of a monolithic slab. The way out of this situation is to make warm floors, water, laid on a wooden floor.

Basic idea and practical solution

For quite a long time, it was believed that it was not a good idea to mount water heating circuits directly on wooden floors. Mainly, the reason for this opinion lay in the characteristics of the building material. Construction timberdespite a lot of technological advantages, it is highly susceptible to the effect of thermal deformation. In addition, excessive exposure to moisture also negatively affects the wood. The lightness of timber structures and the insulating properties were considered disadvantages when it came to installing more complex thermal and hydraulic structures in a building.

Despite the obvious obstacles, attempts to find a reasonable way out of the current situation have led to the emergence of new technologies that make it possible to mount a water heat-insulated floor on a wooden floor, create heating water systems in wooden buildings. The main thing is to choose the right expendable materials and stick to a certain technology.

Today, there are two types of underfloor heating used in residential buildings as a heating element. We will not talk about the electrical circuit, since it did not find its development in combination with wooden structures. Let's pay attention to the water heating system - in which hot water runs through the pipes of the heating circuit.

What are the technological difficulties awaiting us in this case? The operating principle behind this heating system is well known and understood. It makes no difference whether the water circuit lies in a concrete screed, or cleverly hidden in a wooden floor. The water circulating through the pipeline heats the surface of the floor, thereby giving off precious heat to the interior of the heated room.

On a note: skeptics can make a remark - wood does not conduct heat well, besides, the wooden structure itself can deform as a result of heating. There is a lot to answer to these comments. The use of special heat-conducting plates makes it possible to ensure that the thermal energy flows in a strictly vertical direction, heating the floor covering.

A few words should be said here that from a technical point of view, laying heating pipes on a wooden floor is not difficult. If at the initial stage you have a clear idea of \u200b\u200bwhat your warm floor should be like, what type of floor covering you will have, it is quite possible to make a water floor heating.

Key points

We have already talked about the fact that it is not always possible to solve a problem as simply as one would like. For capital stone structures with concrete floors, a concrete screed for warm floors is very convenient. However, in most cases, wooden residential buildings in which wooden floors are not able to withstand an additional weight of 10-15 tons. Wood, even if you are dealing with a set beam system, cannot withstand such a load. It makes no sense to reinforce the supporting structures during the construction of a country house or a bath. This will lead to an increase in the cost and weight of the entire structure.

For reference: any water. This element is a must for any type of underfloor heating. Without a backing, a single floor covering will not have sufficient support.

The key point in this situation is a new technology, thanks to which it was possible not only to significantly reduce the weight of the entire structure of the heating system, but also to ensure that heat was transferred directly flooring... The substrate can be successfully covered with linoleum or carpet. The emergence of new practical and high-tech materials allows you to create an entire heating system based on wooden floors in a matter of days. When working with a concrete screed, you will have to strictly adhere to the technology and wait 25-28 days until the screed reaches its maturity.

Assessment of the condition of wooden structures. Preliminary insulation

Before proceeding with the design of the "water underfloor heating" heating system, it is necessary to examine wooden structures, ceilings, joists and other load-bearing elements. The wooden base consisting of planks must be solid. The gaps between the boards are carefully sealed with heat-insulating materials. The floor in a wooden house is usually mounted on logs, so it is important to study their condition and location.

Condition assessment includes:

• visual inspection of the condition of the surface of wooden boards;
• feeling and scraping the surface of wooden boards to assess the structure of the wood;
• elimination of cracked and bent boards;
• alignment of lags in places of deflection;
• adding lags if the distance between existing elements is too great.

For reference: if the condition of the wooden floor is unsatisfactory (old dry or rotten boards), it is better to dismantle such a base. The lags that hold the boards are too far apart. For a warm floor, the logs should be at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other.

There is an installation option when the warm floor is laid on wooden joists. Those. in other words, the entire structure will be on top of the supporting structures, representing an independent structure.

Old boards that do not have a presentation must be treated with a jointer in order to make the surface of the material even and uniform. The maximum permissible unevenness in height for a wooden floor is no more than 2 mm. This kind of care and precision on a wooden floor is necessary because there is no underlayment in this system.

Having finished with the assessment of the condition and preparation of the wooden floor, one should proceed to the insulation of the structure. Such a preliminary procedure is necessary in view of the fact that all the heat radiated by the water circuit should not go down into the subfloor, but be retained and directed upward.

Reinstall the logs at an acceptable distance, start installing the raised floor. Plywood or used boards are nailed on the logs from below. This will serve as the basis for the installed thermal insulation material. Steam and heat-shielding film should be laid on the prepared base. In the openings between the lags, a heater is laid on the film, the thickness of which should not exceed 100 mm. On top of the insulation, the thermal insulation film is again fixed. Only after all this, you can start laying the heating water circuit.

On a note: it is highly not recommended to use ordinary polyethylene film as thermal insulation. Neglect of technology will lead to the accumulation of condensation in the subfield. Due to the accumulation of moisture, the insulation may soon become unusable.

Insulation in this situation can be mineral wool, the density of which is 35-40 kg / 3.

Installation of floorboards and methods of laying heating pipes

At this stage, technological subtleties must be taken into account. Of course, this will take a little more time, but in the future the work will be done much faster. It should be said right away. The layout of the water heating circuit in this case is a "snake". Installation of the pipeline according to the "spiral" or "snail" scheme is unacceptable for this technology.

On the prepared base, we begin laying boards with a special configuration, equipped with special grooves. There should be 20x20 mm grooves between the boards. The edges of the boards are turned in a semicircle for a convenient turn-up of the water pipe. Having made all the necessary preparations, you can start laying all the boards on the prepared base. The presence of grooves and semicircular edges of the boards are the route for laying the water circuit. This to some extent facilitates the task in the future when installing directly the underfloor heating pipeline.

The ready-made grooves for mounting a water heater under wooden floors are shown in the photo.

Thanks to the grooves, laying the heating circuit is quick and easy. Foil is unwound over the grooves before working with the pipe. After that, a pipe is laid in the grooves, the diameter of which should not exceed 16 mm. In order to obtain maximum heat transfer, the pipe is wrapped in foil, fastening its edges with staples to wooden boards.

On top of the pipes, they are attached to the boards with metal plates. According to this scheme, the entire water pipe is laid, thereby covering the entire floor area.

On the preliminary plan of the room, marks are made where the regulating equipment will be installed (manifold, manifold cabinet).

Important! Pipes should be laid taking into account a certain step. For the central regions of the country, where the average monthly temperature in winter is -15, -20 0 С, the optimal pitch for laying is 150-300 mm.

It is better to use corrugated stainless steel pipe with a diameter of 16 mm.

The final stage. Connection to an autonomous heating system

After you have laid the water circuit, you can start connecting it. For manual regulation, the connection is simply made to the main pipeline using a conventional tap. If you want to make the system adjustable, warm water floors under a wooden floor are equipped with mixing units and a manifold. This gives you a convenient, efficient and adjustable heating system.

For those who want to improvise should remember! Under no circumstances should warm water floors be connected to the centralized heating main. It is illegal to connect additional heating devices, including underfloor heating to the centralized heating system and hot water supply.

Based on this, it is impractical and risky to mount a water floor in a city apartment. For a private house or for a summer residence, this option is quite acceptable and effective. After connection, the water circuits must be pressurized. The procedure is mandatory and allows you to identify places of coolant leakage, to identify areas of weak heating. Only then can you start working on the floor covering.

Finish. Flooring flooring

The finish you choose can be anything you like. Today, the trading network has a huge selection of the most various materials... You will have to choose not so much for manufacturability as for cost. If you prefer to use laminate, then this will take you some time. In this case, the costs will not be so great.

On a note: any material has its own coefficient of thermal conductivity, so your comfort level and heating efficiency depend on it.

Wood has a low thermal conductivity compared to ceramic tiles. Before starting on the lags, you should make thermal calculations that give an idea of \u200b\u200bthe amount of heat that will be on the surface. By doing everything correctly and in accordance with the technology, you can independently make an effective heating system in your living quarters.