How to cover the cellar: types of floors, monolithic and precast-monolithic slabs, wood structures with load-bearing beams, basement ceiling insulation. How to make a basement overlap? Pour the floor slab to the basement

• The floor above the basement is cold
• Mold and mildew will gradually grow on its surface and walls.

The appearance of such troubles leads to:

• Damage to the completed repair
• Accelerated structural failure
• Decreases the health of people living in the house

When an unheated basement is planned in a residential building, thermal insulation of the floor above the basement is always necessary. Since, firstly, the walls are not insulated in a cold basement, and the temperature in the basement is negative in winter. A cold floor means uncomfortable indoor conditions and a significant waste of energy resources for heating. And, secondly, the moist soil underground throughout the year continuously gives off moisture in the form of water vapor, which is saturated with wooden logs. The surface of the basement ceiling that is not insulated and not protected from moisture will easily transfer cold and dampness to the room that is located above. The basement microclimate promotes the development of mold and mildew on the walls.

Therefore, floor insulation should be taken seriously: layers of steam, hydro and thermal insulation should be included in the floor structure.

As a rule, wooden beams with a width of 150 mm are used for flooring. When installing insulation between the beams, the heat-insulating layer turns out to be heterogeneous, because every 60-100 cm, instead of the insulation, a load-bearing wooden beam will be located. Depending on the pitch of the beams, the share of the insulation in such a "pseudo-thermal insulation" layer is 70 to 85%. And the rest of the floor surface is nothing more than heat-conducting inclusions, called cold bridges. In order for a wooden beam not to be a cold bridge, but to perform heat-saving functions, its thickness must be at least 60 cm (for example, a house in the Moscow region). It becomes obvious that even when using a wooden beam with a section of 20x20cm, that is, three times less than the required height, the heat loss through the cold bridges will be three times higher than the normalized ones!

From this, 3 conclusions can be drawn:

• cold bridges do not provide full insulation
• installation of insulation between wooden beams should only be done in seasonal houses (for example, summer cottages)
• insulation between beams should be considered only as additional to the main continuous layer, in order to increase the heat-shielding properties of the floor structure.

So how to properly insulate the floor over a cold basement so as not to pay for heat loss?

The correct solution when insulating floors is to install a continuous thermal insulating layer, without cold bridges, which are formed in the case of laying insulation between wooden beams. This is possible in the case when the insulation layer will be located not between the beams, but under them or on top of them. At the same time, when laying, it must ensure the density of the joints, be strong and rigid in order to transfer all the loads from the floors to the floor beams.

Insulation should:

• withstand loads - do not shrink like fiber insulation
• be durable - not fibrous or crumble like a ball foam
• be energy efficient - have a minimum thermal conductivity (maximum thermal insulation)
• and, of course, to be environmentally friendly, that is, not emitting into the room harmful substancese.g. phenols or styrenes

All these advantages are contained in an innovative insulation - PIR thermal insulation boards based on polyisocyanurate foam. Polyisocyanurate foam, despite its long name, is a type of polyurethane with significantly improved thermal conductivity and fire resistance characteristics.

For insulation of floors above a cold basement, it is used PIR plates PIRRO 30, 50 and 100 mm thick. The slabs have “quarter” and “tongue-and-groove” profiles on all sides, which ensure a tight joint during installation and the absence of cold bridges.

PIR plate PIRRO - thermal insulating board made of rigid polyisocyanurate (PIR), lined with aluminolaminate. Claddings made of foil and aluminolaminate play the role of a diffusion-tight coating that ensures vapor and air impermeability and stability of the thermophysical characteristics of the material for the entire service life

• Fire safety. PIR thermal insulation of the ceilings above the basement has high fire-resistance properties: under the influence of the flame, polyisocyanurate is charred, forming a crust that protects the intact polymer layers.
• Moisture resistance. Low water absorption provides the board with stability of characteristics throughout its entire service life.
• Simple installation. PIR insulation in basement wooden slabs is cut with a construction knife, a hacksaw. When working with the stove, fibrous dust is not formed, and respiratory protection is not required. PIR basement insulation has a low volumetric weight.
• Environmental friendliness. PIR thermal insulation for a basement is environmentally friendly in operation, does not contain styrenes and formaldehydes, and is a chemically inert product. Not affected by mold and mildew.
• High strength.Insulation in PIR slabs for basement floors is designed for free movement over them during flooring.

Technical characteristics of PIR plates Pirro

Technical characteristics of PIR boards PirroTermo

Technical characteristics of PIR boards Pirro

Technical characteristics of PIR-plates PirroKraft

Instructions for insulating concrete floors over a cold basement

1 step

Preparation of the bottom surface of the slab. For slabs made of reinforced concrete slabs, it is necessary to check the quality of the joints between the slabs, if necessary, stamp with a cement-sand mortar. Clean the surface of the slabs from mortar adhesions.

Step 2

Thermal insulation layer device. When installing the plates, they should be positioned with an offset in adjacent rows, in a checkerboard pattern. Disc dowels with a driven spacer or screw are used as fasteners. The gaps in the places where the thermal insulation layer adjoins the walls must be filled with polyurethane foam.
Note: It is also possible to insulate the concrete floor over the cold basement from the side of the warm room - using the technology of insulating the interfloor floor, but without measures for the installation of floating floors.

Instructions for insulating wooden floors over a cold basement (over beams)

1 step

Preparation of the base. Treat wood beams with a bio-protective compound. It is recommended to arrange a sparse plank flooring, which will ensure the convenience of work and will serve as the basis for laying PIR boards in the future.

Step 2

Thermal insulation layer device. Lay the insulation boards across the beams (or across the completed planking).
When laying the slabs, they should be placed with an offset in adjacent rows, in a checkerboard pattern.
To ensure that the plates are in a given position, fix them against displacement with nails or self-tapping screws. In the future, do not dismantle the fasteners if their heads are recessed into the plate. The gaps in the places where the thermal insulation layer adjoins the walls must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Step 3

Hydro-, vapor barrier device. If the floors are tiled along the screed, then use plastic wrap as a vapor barrier. For wooden floors, an alternative insulation method is the gluing of the board joints with aluminum adhesive tape. Fix the film from displacement using a construction stapler; it is recommended to connect the joints of the panels with tape, ensuring an overlap of at least 15 cm.

Step 4

Base device under the floors. For tiled floors: use a cement-sand or precast screed. The screed is carried out directly over the vapor barrier. For wooden floors: make a crate from a board with a width of at least 100 mm, fixing it to wooden beams (or sparse flooring) with wood screws.


Step 5

Laying the floor covering.

Recommendations for insulating wooden and reinforced concrete floors over an unheated basement

• If a flooring will be made of wood, for example, tongue-and-groove boards, then a sheathing layer is required between such a coating and the vapor-waterproofing. The lathing is installed along the beams and forms air gap... In case of leaks from above, the floor will remain dry.
• A screed for laying a tiled floor can be made with a cement-sand mortar or a prefabricated two-layer, for example, from cement-bonded particle board or GVLV sheets. The layers in the prefabricated screed are performed with the obligatory bandaging of the seams, that is, the joints of the sheets of the upper layer should be displaced relative to the joints of the lower layer of the width of the sheet.
• You should be careful about the humidity level in a cold basement (underground). The traditional way to maintain normal humidity is ventilation through air vents - holes in the wall of the basement, located along the perimeter of the house and having a cross section of at least 1/400 of the basement floor area. Through the vents, water vapor is removed from the unheated basement to the street (provided that the humidity in the basement is higher than outside).
• Thus, the durability of the wooden floor is ensured - the supporting wooden floor beams remain dry, and the conditions for the formation of mold and mildew disappear.
• For houses with seasonal residence for the winter, the air vents should be left open (put a grid), for heated houses (year-round use), the cross-section of the vents should be reduced or closed, provided that normal humidity in the basement is ensured (for example, when installing a vapor barrier for the soil, when installing a ventilation system).

home distinctive feature the construction of the floor of the 1st floor, located above the unheated underground, is that there is a heater in the construction. And where there is a heater, the question of its protection from adverse factors automatically arises in order to preserve its heat-shielding qualities. And one of the most important issues protecting the insulation is a matter of protecting it from moisture, that is, a vapor barrier device. This article will focus on warming the wooden floor of the first floor above the basement, and with your own hands.

Creation of temperature and humidity conditions

The main task of all structures with the use of insulation is to create the correct mode of its operation, i.e. to make sure that moisture does not penetrate into the insulation, and the one that can form in it has the opportunity to evaporate outward without hindrance. The first remedy is vapor barrier. The second is ventilation, as adequate ventilation helps the moisture evaporate. These principles should be used when installing the floor of the 1st floor.

The first is ensured by the correct use of vapor barrier means. Ventilation is provided by air gaps and the space under the floor (underground). The underground (technical underground, basement) must be dry and well ventilated. Incorrect temperature and humidity conditions of the underground can lead to the formation of condensation inside the insulation. Whatever this happens, the underground must have air vents for its ventilation. At very low air temperatures in winter, they can even be closed so that the temperature in the underground is not very low and this does not lead to a large temperature difference, which contributes to the formation of condensation in the insulation or on its surface.

Insulation

Types of heaters

As a heater, both bulk and roll or slab materials... Bulk insulation is expanded clay, vermiculite, slag, mineral fibers, shavings.

Backfilling with expanded clay

Slabs are prefabricated slabs or blocks of materials with low thermal conductivity. Recently, polyurethane foam insulation has gained great popularity, which is blown into the space of the insulated structure.

Mineral wool insulation

But the most popular, especially in private construction, are flexible, soft materials. Such insulation is good because it is easy for them to give the necessary shape, they are convenient when laying. The most common insulation is the so-called mineral wool in the form of mats or rolls.

Advantages of mineral wool insulation:

• good thermal conductivity;
• non-flammable and does not support combustion;
• lightweight, saving on supporting structures;
• convenience and speed of installation.

Disadvantages:

• hygroscopicity;
• you need a base for laying.

Vapor barrier - why is it needed

The insulation must be protected from moisture. Any insulation, if it gets wet, very much loses its heat-shielding properties. And since mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, you need to take care that moisture does not get on it.

But protection is required not only from water. Protection is required against steam penetration. Vapor barrier plays an important role in creating optimal operating conditions for the insulation.

Without going into the concept of partial pressure, we note the importance of understanding two points:

It is the vapor barrier that is the barrier that does not allow moisture (in the form of steam) to penetrate the insulation;

It is important to correctly determine where the vapor barrier should be located in the "pie".

Vapor barrier placement principle

In order to briefly, but at the same time unambiguously understand where the vapor barrier should be placed, you need to remember: steam always spreads from a place with more high pressure into a zone of lower pressure. Simply put, warm steam always (practically) spreads from the room to the outside. This must be remembered and then it is easier not to get confused with where it should be placed.

It follows from the above that the vapor barrier is not placed "above" or "under" the insulation. It is placed "between" a warm room that is a source of steam (usually heated indoor rooms) and a cold room (outdoor space) where the steam moves. Therefore, in the case of insulation attic floor, the vapor barrier will be located under the insulation, and in the case of insulation of the wooden floor above the basement - above the insulation.

The concepts of vapor barrier, waterproofing, membrane

In order for the vapor barrier to be effective, i.e. worked correctly and did not harm, the film must be laid on the right side. To do this, you need to study the manufacturer's instructions and consult the seller. A wide variety of materials are now available for steam and water protection. But there is a difference between them. The scope of their application depends on the type of premises, their humidity and temperature conditions, ambient air temperature, for which structure they are used - roofs, floors or walls. Often confusion stems from the concepts themselves: vapor barrier and membrane, instead of waterproofing, vapor barrier is used.

Designed to protect against water vapor that is in the indoor air. In fact, steam is a water-saturated gas, or you can say the gaseous state of water. The vapor barrier must have a low vapor permeability, i.e. she must not let steam through. It is approximately equal to 10 g / m2 / day.

Basically, a vapor barrier is a film. They can be conditionally divided into:

Vapor permeable or "breathable" (membranes);

Vapor tight, practically impermeable to steam, water and air.

Waterproofingdesigned to protect structures from water. Water molecules are larger than gas molecules.

Membrane... Now the word membrane has become very popular. Membranes are already more high-tech films. With regard to the topic of vapor barrier, we can say that this is a material capable of permeating or, on the contrary, capturing certain substances. The most commonly used expression is a vapor-permeable moisture-proof membrane. This means that this material does not allow water to pass through, but at the same time it allows steam to pass through and allows moisture to evaporate. It is these properties that are required during construction to protect thermal insulation.

The direction from where the membrane passes steam and from where it does not let water through for different membranes can be different, depending on the place of its destination. Therefore, you need to be very careful when choosing and ask the seller for all the necessary characteristics.

Basic structural schemes for the floor of the 1st floor

Consider the construction of the floor of the 1st floor above an underground or unheated basement.

The scheme of the wooden floor of the first floor without waterproofing

The basic layout of the ground floor is as follows. The subfloor is laid along the supporting beams, which rest on the foundation. A rough floor is needed in order to lay out insulation on it. The insulation fits into the space between the beams. A vapor barrier is lined on top of the insulation. It is imperative to arrange an air gap between the vapor barrier and the boardwalk to evaporate condensate that may form on the vapor barrier from the side of the room. It can be organized by nailing bars with a height of 2-3 cm. A boardwalk is arranged on top of which the final floor is laid.

The supporting structure of the floor is beams. The pitch of the beams is usually 60-80 cm. You can choose a step so that it would be convenient to lay insulation between the beams. Then the step will be equal to the width of the insulation plus the thickness of the timber.

In the places where the beams are attached to stone structures between them, there must be a waterproofing gasket made of, for example, roofing material or bituminous mastic... Between the timber and the foundation wall, it is necessary to make a gap for ventilation, the timber should not adjoin the wall closely.

Rough floor. To attach the sub-floor to the beams, smaller blocks, "cranial bars", are attached. Subfloor boards are laid on them. Here you can use a low grade 15-50 mm thick board.

Wooden floor of the 1st floor with waterproofing

Sometimes waterproofing is provided in the floor structure. It is appropriate if the basement is very damp and there is a high level of groundwater. Then it becomes necessary to protect the insulation from below. For this, waterproofing is arranged under the insulation. This waterproofing must be made of a water-repellent but vapor-permeable membrane. In order to avoid annoying mistakes, it is better to call the upper film just a vapor barrier (even if the manufacturer calls the film itself a membrane), and the lower one - waterproofing. And here, ideally, a membrane should really be used - a vapor-permeable waterproof one.

An example of the use of improper waterproofing

This video is a very clear example of the fact that water can form in the insulation. This video is very common on YouTube under various names. Very often it is called “incorrect vapor barrier”. The vapor barrier itself is not visible in the video. Perhaps the authors of this design used the lower film as some kind of vapor barrier.

But the point is that the bottom film was supposed to be waterproofing, waterproof on one side, but vapor-permeable on the other.

Useful videos

We also recommend you:

Comments:

Facebook (X)

Regular (17)

1. Natalia

   Good afternoon. Completely confused about steam and waterproofing. Tell me if we are doing the floor of the first floor. We have a wooden house from a bar 150 by 150 per screw piles... we make the subfloor, then we have to put the waterproofing. We bought in a store it says hydro and vapor insulation D, it is like a bag of sugar. Then we want to lay insulation and vapor barrier material, then the floor. I have seen a lot on the Internet and I think what if this film will accumulate water inside? And while the insulation gets wet? what kind of insulation to put on the sub floor?
   And another question. We have taken out part of the second floor, that is, at the bottom there is an open terrace, and on top we get a room. Yesterday we put the same waterproofing on the logs of the second floor and then a 25mm board. It seems like they wanted to get away from the cold, but now I think that water will also accumulate. Then they wanted to put insulation on the bottom and again we don't know what's next, probably waterproofing is more correct. In stores, sellers only advise it everywhere, but according to experiments in the internet, they write differently. please give advice.

2. Natalia

   I live in an apartment on the 1st floor, a basement under the floor. winter time icy. Is it possible to insulate the floor with OSB, and what kind of substrate to use between the floor (wood) and OSB, or do you need something else for insulation.

3. Maxim

   
   thanks. I would still like to get a competent answer.

   • Alexander (foreman)

     Good afternoon. Each material has its own purpose. For this, he was invented. The manufacturer's websites have a specific description of the application of each membrane. Therefore, you need to specifically talk about the floor cake and specific membranes.
     If you cover a tree from below with a film, then it will quickly rot, because will have the same effect as with the ventilation pipe. Moisture will condense on the inside of the film from the room, thereby keeping the logs constantly wet. To do it right, look at the instructions for membranes that are used for floor insulation.

     • Maxim

       Good afternoon. I live in a small town and do not trust the competence of sellers, because 99% of them, as Zadornov says - KOEKAKERS - do not know anything and do not want to know. practice shows that manufacturers do not know what they are producing either. I will give an example: I purchased a vapor-waterproofing Isospan D. on the official website in the description of this product it is written: it is used for insulated and non-insulated roofs, m used as a temporary roof. after unpacking three rolls, I finally found instructions (out of 3 rolls there was only one) for use: it is used only for non-insulated roofs. I had to return everything to the store. instead of this steam-hydroisation, a PLI from another manufacturer was purchased. their official website had the same description as Izospan. after unpacking the roll, an instruction was found: cannot be used as a temporary roof.
       Returning to my question, I want to clarify: a vapor-waterproofing film, if I understand correctly, lets moisture vapor pass in one direction, and on the other hand prevents moisture from penetrating into the insulation. if you stretch the film from below along the logs, then the couples from the wood and the insulation will go into the underground, and from the underground moisture will not get into the logs and the insulation. or is it not so?

       • Alexander (foreman)

         The question is accepted.

         Still the opinion: How a vapor barrier is obliged to protect the whole from steam from inside the house !! the pie of the structure, as well as the wind-waterproofing, must also protect the whole pie of any structures from wind and water.
         Returning to the pie over the underground. No membrane protects from steam, plus with permanent residence there is no driving force for that. so that steam from the underground climbed into the pie above the underground (if the house is not permanent residence and there is no ventilation of the underground - another matter!). Also, I do not consider it necessary to protect myself from water - except for the case of gushing water from underground up to the ceiling. Therefore, in this case, we are talking about a vapor-permeable wind shield (the wind shield is obliged to release steam out of the cake). Wind protection is obliged to protect the cake from being blown by the wind / draft / pressure difference and to protect the insulation from being carried away by the wind ... Therefore, the correct solution IMHO is the most vapor-permeable membrane with overlaps and gaskets and with the obligatory protection of the entire cake. Underground ventilation is a must in any scenario. as well as the vapor barrier of the entire pie just under interior decoration the floor when overlapping the walls and gluing the obligatory overlaps.

         • Maxim

           good afternoon. actually the question is not whether to lay the film or not. I have a question: why is the film laid ON TOP OF THE LAGS, AND NOT UNDER THEM?

         • Alexander (foreman)

           And this is not right on the logs without an air gap and immediately boards! This was done in the old days, so that dust from the glass wool does not fall and so that it does not blow into the micro-slots. You can, of course, nail boards onto the film right away, but then there is no sense in breathing.
           The film also protects against possible dampness when the temperature of the floor cake changes. (Condensation)

         • Maxim

           WHY IS THE FILM SPOT ON TOP ON THE LUGS AND THE BLUE FLOOR, AND NOT BELOW UNDER THE LAGS?

           I AM NOT ABOUT THE TOP LAYER OF STEAM INSULATION, BUT ABOUT THE LOWER LAYER.

         • Maxim

           Let's start over. something we seem to misunderstand each other.

           i have a house made of rounded logs on screw piles. plinth height 60 cm.
           the basement has not yet been insulated with anything, and a half-brick is laid out, purely decorative to close the basement. in the future I plan to insulate it with expanded polystyrene from the inside 50-100 mm. air vents are made in the basement for ventilation of the underground.
           house for permanent residence

           so: now I have 50x200 logs installed with a step of 60 cm. Where to start floor insulation? from bottom to top: rough floor, vapor barrier, insulation 200mm (min cotton wool), vapor barrier, vent gap (which one is necessary by the way?), final floor (40 board)

           the whole question I have is why it is impossible to make insulation like this: from the bottom up: steam and waterproofing, rough floor, insulation 200mm (min cotton wool), steam waterproofing, ventilation gap (which one is necessary by the way?), finishing floor (40 board)

         • sergei Pavlovich

           good afternoon. did not find an answer to Maxim's question.
           "Good afternoon. please tell me why the bottom layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing is placed on top of the joists and on the flooring. I want to stretch the film from below along the logs onto the stapler, thereby protecting the tree from the moisture of the underground. Or will I, on the contrary, leave it (wood (logs and flooring)) without ventilation and it will be even worse? tell me how to do it? "

           the answer is very interesting to me

         • Alexander (foreman)

           Good afternoon. Apparently the question of maxim was completely forgotten. You need to understand the difference between a vapor barrier and a hydro barrier! It is important. The vapor barrier lies down from the bottom of the structure to prevent moisture ingress during evaporation from the bottom. And the hydro-barrier, passing the moisture released by the structure (for example, drying out the wood) to the top, does not allow moisture to get from the top. By using the film itself, you will thereby retain moisture ... which will lead to decay.

4. Maxim

   Good afternoon. please tell me why the bottom layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing is placed on top of the joists and on the flooring. I want to stretch the film from below along the logs onto the stapler, thereby protecting the tree from the moisture of the underground. Or will I, on the contrary, leave it (wood (logs and flooring)) without ventilation and it will be even worse? tell me how to do it?

Overlapping the cellar with your own hands is a responsible event, which is carried out after the construction of the walls of the storage facility, their waterproofing and insulation. Depending on the type of warehouse, its ceiling may be below the ground level under the sod or rise by 100-150 cm. The choice of construction depends on the availability of free space on the site, its design, groundwater level and availability underground communications common use... The higher the roof of the building is, the more difficult it is to build and insulate it.

Training

The standard design of a vegetable store consists of a base, walls, a ceiling and an entrance group. The latter includes a vestibule, entrance hatches, doors, steps and stairs. When deciding how to cover the cellar, you should choose materials that are low in weight, strength and durability. The correct solution will allow you to build a strong warehouse well protected from external conditions, where a stable coolness will be maintained throughout the year.

The choice of ceiling design depends on the following parameters:

1. Depth of storage. If it is completely submerged in the ground, then a lawn, path or garden bed is arranged on top of it. It should be possible to use the ceiling as the basis for a light structure - a barn, garage, gazebo or animal enclosure. Such projects involve the use of a strong and durable slab that can withstand heavy loads. For elevated buildings, a light structure is sufficient, designed for snow and wind load.
2. Foundation thickness. If the walls are made of reinforced concrete, then they can be covered even with monolithic concrete products. When building a warehouse from bricks and foam blocks, the ceiling of the cellar should be made as light as possible so that it does not collapse the support.

Before equipping the roof of the warehouse, the following preparatory work is carried out:

• external and internal waterproofing of the foundation;
• filling with sand the opening between the pit and the walls;
• production of an armored belt over supporting structures.

There are various ways to overlap the cellar. The choice depends on the characteristics of the site, the skills, abilities and financial capabilities of its owner.

Floor types

The easiest way to make the roof of a storage facility is to use reinforced concrete slabs. You should choose products that are hollow inside, since they have less weight and thermal conductivity than monolithic counterparts. In addition, lightweight slabs practically do not bend under their own weight during operation.

When building a ceiling in a cellar with your own hands from concrete goods, it is necessary to use lifting equipment of light and medium type. Even a few workers cannot lift a product that weighs hundreds of kilograms. It is better to hire a light truck with a manipulator, which will bring the plates and immediately put them in place. The downside of this solution is that concrete products have fixed dimensions and the shed will have to be designed for them, and not for your needs.

You can make a basement overlap with your own hands from concrete without cars. The technology of such works involves pouring concrete directly above the warehouse. The advantage of this solution is the cost savings on the rental of equipment for the transportation and unloading of finished products. In addition, you can immediately provide openings for ventilation pipes, a power cable and even a water supply.

The arrangement of the ceiling in the cellar with your own hands can be done without the use of a heavy cement mix... This process is similar to installing a floor or roof in wooden house... The basis of the structure is wooden logs, which are sheathed with several layers of insulation and waterproofing materials.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging the floor

Let's consider in detail how reinforced concrete floor slabs are made for the cellar. This material is chosen by landlords because of its strength, durability and resistance to moisture.

For work you will need:

• concrete mixer;
• bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• roulette;
• level;
• a hammer;
• ax;
• screwdriver;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• cement;
• fittings;
• bars;
• boards;
• steel wire.

The ceiling in the cellar is built in the following sequence:

1. Arrangement of formwork around the perimeter of the structure. The boards are attached to reinforcement pins that are obliquely driven into the wall.
2. Installation of the shield between the walls. Its bottom is sealed with plastic wrap to prevent the solution from leaking out.
3. Production of a two-level spatial frame from reinforcement. Carrying out its fixation with anchors.
4. Installation of mortgages for the passage of communications and fastening of additional parts.
5. Mixing of concrete mortar. The proportion of water, cement, sand and gravel is 2: 1: 3: 3. It is continuously cast into the formwork. Air from the mixture is removed with a pin or vibrator.
6. Leveling the surface of the slab. The solution can be corrected within 3-4 hours after pouring.

The roof must be at rest for 25-28 days for the concrete to gain strength. All this time, it must be moistened with water daily and covered with a film to prevent cracking. After that, the ceiling is sealed and further finished in accordance with the project.

Ventilation

In most cases, the basement floor is used for laying an exhaust ventilation duct... It is designed to remove warm air saturated with moisture, odors and vapors from the room. The pipe should be lifted as high as possible to ensure good traction. It is best to install the exhaust vent on the opposite side of the ceiling to the supply pipe. If the roof over the cellar is made of slate and other fragile material, it is advisable to run the pipe along the walls.

The supply channel should be deepened at least 50 cm into the ground. This is necessary so that the air passing through it heats up in winter and cools down in summer heat. The pipe is brought into the room 5-10 cm above the floor level.

It is recommended to cover the upper sections of the supply and exhaust pipes with a fine steel mesh to protect against insects, rodents and amphibians. To prevent water and snow from getting into the pipes during precipitation, umbrellas made of plastic or tin are installed on them. To improve traction, air conditioning systems can be equipped with fans that provide forced pumping of humid air.

Floor insulation

When deciding how to make a ceiling over the cellar, one should not forget about the need for high-quality insulation. It should be remembered that heat and dampness penetrate into the room through a poorly insulated roof.

For this purpose, the following materials can be used:

1. A mixture of cement and sawdust. The thickness of the layer should be at least 30 cm. Waterproofing from bitumen or PVC film is applied over it. When used internally, the cement is treated with a lime solution.
2. Basalt wool. Plates have low thermal conductivity and low weight. Perfect for insulating the ceiling in the basement of a private house. The cotton wool is covered with a membrane film, after which it is plastered or sheathed with a hard facing.
3. Styrofoam. It has low thermal conductivity and specific gravity. Attached to the slab on cement mortar with subsequent fixation with dowels. Requires external finishing to protect it from ultraviolet radiation and mechanical stress.

Considering options for how to close the cellar, it is advisable to dwell on polyurethane foam. It will cost more than the others, but it is the most effective. Foam penetrates cracks, fills cavities and depressions. To apply it, there is no need to prepare the surface, carry out preliminary insulation, make frames and use finishing... The disadvantage is that you need to rent special equipment.

The owners of private houses use the basement to ensure the safety of crops and conservation. The construction does not require additional space, since the cellar is located below the soil level in the foundation part of the building. At the same time, it is important to overlap the cellar in compliance with the construction rules. This will ensure the reliability of the structure and maintain favorable humidity and temperature. Consider how to overlap the cellar on your own.

Block: 1/11 | Number of characters: 482

Upon completion of the work associated with the construction of walls and the implementation of waterproofing of the room, the moment comes when it is necessary to resolve the issue of overlapping the cellar. In some cases, for this, an ordinary monolithic concrete slab is used, which is made of concrete and a reinforcing cage.

All the work can be done by hand. It is very important to build timber formwork before pouring concrete.

• Before pouring the floor, special props should be installed, which should hold the structure of the wooden formwork at the time of filling it with concrete and when it dries. In this case, the formwork must be pre-sealed so that the solution does not leak during the pouring process.
• The next step after creating the formwork is knitting the frame of the concrete slab. The frame, as already noted, is made of reinforcement. The distance between the individual rods should be about 20–25 cm. If your cellar is small in size, then one reinforcing cage will be enough, but when the dimensions of the storage are significant, for greater reliability it is better to carry out paired reinforcement of the slab. The reinforcement net should protrude several centimeters from the walls of the cellar from different sides.

As soon as the work on the creation of the formwork and reinforcement mesh is completed, the process of pouring the concrete solution can begin, which will form the future slab. As a rule, the height of the slab does not exceed 30 cm. This is a reliable, monolithic and high-quality ceiling that will serve you for more than a dozen years.

The concrete should be poured as evenly as possible, without interruption, until the entire slab is formed. To prevent cavities from forming inside the structure, the solution must be vibrated before pouring, which is done by regular board or special devices.

After pouring the concrete slab, you need to wait some time (about 3-4 weeks) for it to completely harden and take its final form. According to experts, such an overlap is the most durable and effective. In addition, if you wish, you can even use it as the foundation of a small outbuilding above the earthen cellar.

Block: 2/6 | Number of characters: 2228
Source: https://PodvalDoma.ru/stroitelstvo/pogreb/perekrytie.html

Training

Before starting the construction of the cellar with your own hands, you must consider the following points:

• work begins with the layout of the premises;
• determine the level of occurrence of groundwater. Waterproofing the premises is necessary if the groundwater level is above the cellar floor. For this, as a rule, roofing material and bricks are used. Cellar waterproofing is an important point that affects the temperature and humidity of the room.

At the end of the work related to the construction of walls and waterproofing the premises, the question arises - how to overlap the cellar.

Block: 2/8 | Number of characters: 538

Basement floors with concrete slabs

Basement floors with concrete slabs or as they are also called "voids" require more money, but they are durable, not subject to fire, decay and, in essence, is a ready-made floor base for laying laminate, parquet, linoleum and others.

Basement overlap with reinforced concrete slabs

True, after all, it will be necessary to lay insulation under the finishing material: cork or a substrate under the laminate. But this, as they say, "for later", and at that moment when the basement floor has already been built and you decided to cover it with reinforced concrete slabs, you need to do the following work:

• Purchase (write out) slabs at a reinforced concrete structure plant or at the base building materials... For example, we can cite the cost of a hollow reinforced concrete slab measuring 1980 x 1490 x 220 mm will cost 5,100 rubles per piece. By the way, at most enterprises or warehouses you can get advice on the design strength of the material.
• Prepare a place for laying slabs on the walls of the basement, that is, remove debris, hardened mortar, etc.
• Order a truck crane for a specific time and provide free access for equipment to the place of work. The cost of renting a truck crane depends on its carrying capacity and boom length. In Moscow and the Moscow Region, the services of a five-ton crane with a boom length of 6 to 18 m will cost 8 thousand rubles per shift. A shift is seven hours of work plus one hour for moving. You can also negotiate privately at a rate: one lift is 250 rubles.
• Successful work will require assistants: at least four people.
• Before laying the slab, a concrete solution is placed in the place of planting the slab on the end of the basement wall.
• During the process of installing the slabs, you must be extremely careful and tuck the slabs with a crowbar.
• After the completion of the work, it is advisable to remove the excess solution while it has not yet frozen.

Block: 3/3 | Number of characters: 1868
Source: https://remontzhilya.ru/podvalnye-perekrytiya-domov.html

The construction of the basement ceiling is carried out after the construction of the walls, concreting of the base and the implementation of waterproofing work. There are a number of things to consider:

• choose a material for making a ceiling;
• study the technology of work performance;
• calculate the amount of required building materials;
• determine the overall level of costs;
• prepare tools and building materials.

To maintain comfortable humidity, it is necessary to consider the design of the hood. Air exchange is carried out in various ways:

• natural. Ventilation is provided by means of a supply line and an exhaust pipe due to the temperature difference;
• forced. To increase the efficiency of circulation, a small-sized fan unit is used.

Having completed all the activities on your own, you can significantly save money.

Before making any cellar, the groundwater level is taken into account

Block: 4/11 | Number of characters: 920
Source: https://pobetony.expert/stroitelstvo/perekrytie-pogreba

When the box is prepared (walls, floor are concreted and waterproofed), a ceiling is built into the basement. What is the best way to make the ceiling? After answering this serious question, you can calculate the need for materials and begin work.

Convenient when the basement is located in the room where the vehicle is stored. Having completed all the work in the garage with your own hands, you can save financial resources, since you will not attract professional builders. To reduce costs, define in advance necessary materials, find out the prices at which they can be purchased. This will assess the overall level of spending.

What types of ceilings can be installed in a cellar?

Block: 4/11 | Number of characters: 716

Specificity of installation of precast monolithic slabs

The ceiling in the cellar can be formed using precast monolithic slabs. To carry out construction activities, order special lifting equipment, which will significantly speed up the work.

Precast monolithic slabs are blocks that are laid between steel beams and then poured with a small layer of concrete

There are a number of complications associated with increased tolerances for the length and width of the slabs. They may simply not match the actual storage sizes. Considering that the length of the slabs is from 9 to 12 meters, before starting the installation, they should be compared with the dimensions of the building. If you plan to use monolithic precast slabs, it is advisable to take this into account at the design stage. The size of the basement room in width must correspond to the parameters of the slab to be installed.

If the dimensions of the slabs in the basement match, the installation is carried out using a crane. Perform the activities in the following sequence:

• connect structural elements using steel profiles;
• fill the cavities in the joints with heat-insulating compound;
• fill the joint planes with concrete;
• lay roofing material on the surface using bituminous mastic.

Are you having difficulty how to overlap the cellar? Use a prefabricated structure made of solid reinforced concrete slabs, which are notable for their low price and allow to reduce construction time.

Block: 7/11 | Number of characters: 1403
Source: https://pobetony.ru/stroitelstvo/perekrytie-pogreba/

What designs of floors for the cellar are used

For the construction of the basement ceiling, various solutions are used:

• solid concrete slabs, reinforced with reinforcement;
• prefabricated reinforced concrete ceilings made of standard elements;
• beam structures made of wood;
• strong beams made from rolled metal.

Let us dwell in detail on the features of each option and construction technology.

Block: 5/11 | Number of characters: 429
Source: https://pobetony.expert/stroitelstvo/perekrytie-pogreba

Ventilation

When choosing options for how to close the cellar, you need to think over the installation of ventilation in advance. At the stage of overlapping, it is recommended to make holes for the installation of ventilation pipes in the future.

The safety of products in the storage largely depends on high-quality ventilation. The best ventilation will be provided by two pipes, one of which will be the exhaust and the other supply. The pipes are placed diagonally in opposite corners, due to which the air circulation will be more intense.

One of the asbestos-cement pipes should be lowered almost to the very basement floor and not reach 15-20 cm. Another pipe should be installed almost at the level of the basement ceiling and protrude no more than 5-7 cm down.

Objects should not be located near the pipes so as not to obstruct the air flow. To prevent rainfall, debris, insects and rodents from entering the cellar, above ventilation pipes caps are mounted, and a metal mesh is installed inside the pipe.

When installing two pipes in the cellar, the optimal temperature and humidity conditions will be observed. For a small room, it is enough to install one chimney. You may need to dry the room.

Block: 6/8 | Number of characters: 1203
Source: https://kopayu.ru/pogreb/perekrytie-pogreba

We make a floor in the basement from wood

Using a timber beam structure is a proven method for arranging a basement floor.

Work order:

1. Saturate the wood with an antiseptic.
2. Waterproof the support planes of the beams with roofing material.
3. Install the beams on the end surface of the walls, fix them.
4. Attach the boards to the beams, lay the heat-insulating material.
5. Cover the insulation with sheet roofing felt.
6. Fill the resulting structure with soil or fill it with a thin layer of screed.

To ensure the rigidity of the structure, it is important to install the beams in the previously prepared grooves.

The overlap, which is obtained after using this method, needs high-quality thermal insulation

Block: 8/11 | Number of characters: 726
Source: https://pobetony.expert/stroitelstvo/perekrytie-pogreba

Beam version

To make a high-quality floor for your cellar, you can use load-bearing beams. Metal beams are best suited for this. If possible, you can even use ordinary rails, which can often be purchased at construction warehouses or at places where scrap metal is received. Often, the beams from which it is supposed to make the ceiling of the structure are ordered individually at the factories.

Even conventional rails are suitable as load-bearing beams.

When choosing this method of creating a cellar overlap, at the stage of its construction, it is necessary to provide for the presence of special holes in the walls, which are required for fastening the supporting beams. The ceiling of your cellar will experience significant stress. That is why the walls should also be as strong as possible, capable of withstanding the weight of the beams and soil poured from above. By and large, the walls will be the "foundation" for the floor.

For laying beams in the walls, special holes are provided.

The order of work is as follows:

1. The load-bearing beams are laid in pre-prepared holes in the wall. By and large, this work can be done independently, but with a few assistants, because even the rails have significant weight.
2. In the space that will be formed after laying the supporting beams, it is necessary to mount the reinforcing rods, and then fix it with a special wire. Next, the reliability of the connection and the durability of the beams are checked. If all is well, then a wooden formwork is made and a waterproofing layer is applied to it.
3. After the installation of the formwork, it is necessary to install supports, which will be designed to take on the load of the cement mortar.
4. The cement mortar can be mixed with your own hands or ordered ready-made in any construction company. The solution should be poured as evenly as possible and without long interruptions metal carcass... All compartments of the frame must be filled with concrete, something must not be overlooked. Upon completion of pouring, the solution is distributed throughout the entire thickness of the structure.
5. The overlap, which is obtained after using this method, needs high-quality thermal insulation. For this, in principle, any thermal insulation material is suitable.

As a result, you get a reliable floor slab that can withstand serious loads. In this case, the ceiling of the cellar will be perfectly strengthened, insulated and will not cause problems during operation. The resulting overlap after all the insulation work must be covered with soil, making a small mound. In some cases it additionally sets gable roof, which will protect the cellar from precipitation.

Block: 4/6 | Number of characters: 2626

Outdoor decoration

Petr Kravets

Reading time: 4 minutes

A A

Owners country houses often it is necessary to build a cellar partially or completely buried. Such storage facilities, located below the soil surface, can significantly save space on the site when only the entrance to the storage is equipped.

Structures under the ground do not freeze even when there are severe frosts, which is why it is so important to properly close the room so that there is an optimal temperature and humidity inside, ensuring the safety of products and workpieces.

Starting to build a cellar, you should decide in advance how to block the cellar so as not to get out of the budget and do the work efficiently and quickly.

When equipping the ceiling in the cellar, from what to make the ceiling, you need to decide when construction is still underway. Consider the main types of possible arrangement. Some of them are also applicable to basements in private houses.

Overlap types

When the pit is equipped and the walls of the cellar are made, it is worth thinking about how to overlap the cellar with your own hands. The materials and cost of such a structure are very important for the overall estimate for the work, therefore it is necessary to understand each type of overlap and the features of work on arranging the ceiling.

As a rule, the ceiling of the cellar is made with an even overlap, but in some cases you can make it domed. Such a vaulted ceiling will provide a comfortable room microclimate, since the air masses in it mix differently than in other arrangement options.

Some scientists claim that the arched ceiling gives a special aura and energy to the room, contributing to better preservation fresh vegetables than in a building with a flat roof.

Concrete ceiling

How to fill the ceiling in a cellar with concrete so that there are no collapses and damage to the base of the structure? It is important to calculate the loads in advance, find out how to fill the cellar with the mixture, determine the sequence of work and the features of concreting buildings of any configuration.

Monolithic slab

Overlapping the cellar with your own hands in the form of a monolithic slab is performed using a frame made of reinforcing rods, poured with concrete. With this design, there is no need to use special equipment, cranes, which will significantly save time and construction costs.

To start work, you need to prepare plywood (15-20 mm thick), beams for the frame, beams and stands for support, concrete mortar, reinforcement and wire for strapping.

The sequence of work on how to make a ceiling in a cellar from concrete:

• The overlap should be made so that it is located on the walls of the structure, which will themselves serve as a support for it. It is necessary to make special beams for the support, on which the formwork will be located. This design will allow you to keep the integrity of the poured concrete slab, even when it solidifies;
• The boards from which the formwork is made must be sealed so that the mortar does not flow out during pouring. It is also important to soak all parts with antiseptics. The weight of reinforced concrete will reach 500 kg per square meter, if a layer of 20 centimeters is poured. Formwork is placed around the perimeter of the building;
• After the installation of the formwork is completed, the frame is erected from the reinforcement inside, it can be both rods and a mesh. When it is installed, it is necessary to maintain the correct even distance between the rods, usually about 20 centimeters. The lower ends of the rods should be supported by the beams as a supporting structure. Such a frame made of iron protrudes beyond the edges of the slab by 4 centimeters on each side;
• As soon as the rows of reinforcement are laid horizontally and vertically, all elements of their connections must be tied with wire, observing the dimension of the cells in 15-20 mm. After the installation is completed, the frame is checked for the strength of all joints;
• After the installation of the mesh, they proceed to concreting. The process is carried out extremely quickly from cement mortar such as binder, sand and crushed stone. The height of the slab to be poured should be about 20 centimeters;
• The concrete mass must be poured into the formwork evenly, without interruption, to the very end of the slab. It is important to maintain a uniform pouring direction, avoiding voids. To avoid this, the solution is exposed to vibration. You can use a special vibrating screed, or you can use ordinary wooden blocks;
• At the end of the work, the concrete mass is closed from the sun, rain or wind. Protect the plate from mechanical damage. After 3 weeks, the formwork is removed.

A layer of reinforcement will be sufficient, but additional reinforcement can be made to increase the strength of the structure. As soon as the pouring is over, the concrete is left to harden, waiting for about a month, during which time it acquires the necessary strength.

Experts recommend using monolithic slabs for cellar floor slabs, since this solution is the most durable, reliable and practical. The surface formed by a slab of concrete can be the foundation for another building to be erected above the structure.

Overlapping timber beams is very easy with railroad rails. They can be bought at scrap metal collection points, or can be ordered from industrial workshops. In order for the installation of the beams to be correct, special beds are made for them, which reliably fix the steel structure.

The beams are fixed in the walls of the vault, and henceforth they do not pop out under any load. In this case, the walls are the foundation relative to the beams.

The sequence of work on the arrangement of the floor over the beams is as follows:

• Rows of reinforcement are placed between the beams, which are fastened together with a knitting wire;
• After arranging the reinforcing mesh between the beams, they begin to make a wooden formwork, on which layers of waterproofing are laid;
• Frames are placed under the formwork, which will hold the mass of concrete mortar;
• As soon as the frame is finished, concrete mixtures are poured, prepared independently or purchased in the form of a ready-made solution;
• Concrete is poured evenly and slowly;
• The overlap is insulated as soon as the concrete reaches the required strength. You can use any insulation, even roofing material.

Precast monolithic slabs

Precast-monolithic slabs can create a solid overlap, only you need to take into account the involvement of construction equipment, a construction crane with loading, for example, in the estimate. This process is quite long. There are other disadvantages, in particular the size of the slab - typical sizes are not always suitable.

The longest slab of precast-monolithic type is from 9 to 12 meters. Before starting the installation, you need to make sure that these dimensions are suitable for the structure. It is important to consider that the area occupied by the basement should not be larger than the plate itself.

• The plates are interconnected with steel beams;
• All hollow parts of the joints are filled with a heat insulator, which will keep warm air inside the room;
• After the insulation work, layers of waterproofing are placed on the slab in the form of sheets of roofing material and bitumen mastic.

Plates are optimal materialto equip the cellar overlap in the garage. Such a structure is quickly and easily erected, and the price is not too high.

Making a cellar in the garage seems to be convenient in many ways, in particular, the floor in the garage will be the ceiling for an underground room. The warmth of the upper room will not let the cold and heat into the storage.

Wooden floor

The wooden ceiling for the cellar can be made by hand from wood - beams of suitable size. This requires:

• Install beams on walls;
• Bars are attached to the side parts of each beam so that there are supports for the roll-up boards;
• Homemade reel is laid with self-tapping screws;
• A layer of vapor barrier is made, which is covered with thermal insulation material
• The structure is sheathed with plywood treated with special antiseptic solutions;
• The entire resulting structure is coated with bitumen-based mastic and covered with overlapping layers of roofing material. The soil is poured from above, if it is not planned to build a ground part.

In the case of such an arrangement, the floor slab will act as a floor for the next floor. Such floors can be insulated inside the upper room. Installing a wooden floor is as simple as pouring concrete into the ceiling in a cellar, only it takes less time to set up.

Overlapping wood is not the best choice as it is vulnerable to moisture and will rot over time!

Ceiling insulation

Temperature and humidity are very dependent on the ceiling and its insulation. Good conditions indoors, it can provide high-quality thermal insulation, for which a cement mortar is used, mixed with sawdust. In terms of thickness, such a layer can be 2-4 centimeters. The application is done with a special tool so that there are no irregularities.

Pouring the ceiling of the cellar requires subsequent mandatory thermal insulation in any case. As a rule, the floors are made double: a layer of expanded clay or earth is poured on top of 20 cm, and the main heat-insulating layer passes from below.

There are two options for insulating the ceiling: under a heated living space and under a garage or any unheated building.

Cellar under a warm room

If the main covering of the storage is equipped with high-quality thermal insulation, the ceilings can be insulated with only a slight thermal insulation layer of materials, covering it with a plastic coating on top for decoration.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• Penetrating waterproofing impregnation;
• Pasting the ceiling with insulation;
• A vapor barrier layer if non-cement-bonded particle boards were used.

Cellar under a cold room

If it is impossible to insulate the base of the floor, in particular, when placed under a garage or other outbuilding, then you need to make a double layer of insulation, equipping a false ceiling. It is made of a vapor-proof material that is resistant to moisture. For example, you can take extruded polystyrene foam.