Insulation of the corners of the house with foam. Do-it-yourself wall insulation with foam. Finishing works - finishing of joints and corners, wall decoration

A lot depends on how well the house is insulated: the microclimate and air temperature in the premises in winter and summer, and cost savings during the heating season. That is why close attention is paid to wall insulation during the construction and restoration of the building.

You can insulate the walls inside and outside with different materials: mineral wool, isolon, glass wool, polystyrene. The last option is the most profitable and technically available.

Since polystyrene is a rather dimensional material in thickness, it is best to insulate the outer walls of the house with it. With internal insulation, the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room is lost.

External wall insulation of the house can be divided into several stages.

Materials and tools

Marking beacons.

Chopping cords.

Adhesive for fixing foam.

Comb for applying glue.

Dowels with large umbrella hats.

Reinforcing mesh.

Adhesive for mesh mounting.

Wall primer.

Foam for sealing wide gaps.

Sandpaper.

Rotary hammer with a set of long drills.

Roller for applying primer.

Special foam trowel for smoothing irregularities.

Spatula for applying glue.

Level and tape measure.

Basic set of locksmith tools.

The walls on which the insulation will be mounted must be carefully prepared. All cracks and voids need to be repaired; damaged sections of the wall are best restored. In the presence of large differences - more than 5 cm, it is advisable to level the plane of the wall, otherwise it will be difficult to properly fix the insulating material.

It is not advisable to start work on a rainy day or mount the material on wet walls. If the house is being renovated, it is recommended to install the insulation after replacing windows and doors.

It is recommended to thoroughly prime clean walls before fixing the foam. The deep impregnation liquid can be applied with a roller or spray. The primer will protect the wall from corrosion and moisture, improve the adhesion of the adhesive solution to the foam.

Before attaching the material to the wall, it is advisable to expose beacons. Chopping cords are pulled between the beacons. This will allow the foam to be attached with minimal deviation.

Installation of foam on walls

After pretreating the walls and installing beacons, you can start installing the foam.

Step 1. Dilution of glue. The dry mixture must be diluted with water. The consistency of the glue should be creamy, without lumps and other impurities. It is best to dilute the glue in portions.

Step 2. In order for the first row of foam to be even, it is recommended to start attaching the insulation to metallic profile... Using a tape measure and a level, you need to mark the line along which the first row of insulation will be attached. Then, along this line, you need to drill a metal profile to the wall. It additionally contributes to better fixing of the insulation to the wall.

Step 3. Glue is evenly applied to the surface of the foam with a comb. If the surface of the wall is not too flat, then more adhesive can be applied to the insulation to maximize the adhesion.

Step 4. The first row of foam is laid out. It is recommended to glue the material on the wall from the bottom up. It is also recommended to apply glue between the insulation boards so that there are no gaps.

Step 5. The second row of foam is glued offset from the first row. This will provide a better bond of the material and minimize gaps between the plates. Do not forget about applying glue to the abutting ends of the plates for better sealing. If there are too large gaps between the foam plates, polyurethane foam can be used to seal them.

Step 6. At the corners of the house, the foam must be fastened with such an allowance to completely cover the protruding areas.

Step 7. Before installing the next row, do not forget about putting up beacons.

Step 8. In this way, all rows of insulation are glued.

Additional fixation of foam

After the walls of the house have already been insulated, it is recommended to further strengthen the fixation of the material. For these purposes, a puncher and special fastening accessories are used - anchors with wide plastic caps, inside which a metal hairpin is driven.

When choosing the size of the fittings, you need to know that for high-quality fixation, the anchor is recommended to be recessed into the wall by 40 mm. If the thickness of the foam is 40 mm, the thickness of the adhesive layer is 10 mm, the length of the anchor should be 90 mm.

Step 1. It is advisable to fix the foam sheet with 4-5 anchors. For these purposes, holes are drilled in the insulation and the wall. The length and width of the drill should be equal to the dimensions of the fastening hardware.

Step 2. After drilling, plastic fittings are inserted into the holes. The caps of the anchors need to be slightly drowned in the foam in order to hide them later with a layer of plaster.

Step 3. Metal studs are inserted inside the plastic anchors and hammered with force until they stop.

Step 4. In this way, all sheets of foam glued to the walls are fixed.

After the wall insulation is completed, you can proceed with the finishing and beautification of the facades of the house.

Step 1.Using a foam trowel, smooth out all the bumps at the joints of the foam sheets. The grater removes the excess glue layer.

Step 2. Walls insulated with foam must be primed.

Step 3. After the primer is dry, you can start applying the putty. Spread the putty evenly over the surface of the foam. The optimal layer is 2-3 mm.

Step 4. While the putty has not dried, a reinforcing mesh is attached over the layer. The material must be sunk into the mortar with a spatula. It is advisable to reinforce small sections of the wall - 1-2 meters. The mesh is overlapped. When working with a spatula, it is required to carefully smooth out all irregularities. Ideally, the mesh should be hidden under a layer of putty.

Step 5. After the walls have been reinforced, you need to wait until the solution is completely dry. Then the wall is treated with coarse sandpaper. The abrasive removes all irregularities, drops and sagging on the wall surface.

Step 6. The wall cleaned from defects is once again treated with a primer.

Step 7. Using a wide trowel, apply the leveling compound to the wall. With its help, you can achieve perfect surface smoothness.

Step 8. Finishing the facades. For these purposes is used various materials: paint, decorative plaster. You can also refine the facade of the house with mosaics, natural or decorative stone, facing brick. If you plan to use these materials, you do not need to use leveling compounds.

If all the required materials and tools are available, it is not difficult to insulate the house with foam on your own. The main thing is to wait for good weather and observe safety precautions when working at height.

Video - How to properly insulate a house with foam

In order for the house to be warm, it must be insulated correctly, you should take into account not only the thickness of the foam, but also the technology itself, following which you can achieve the best results in insulating the outer walls of your facade. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the detailed step-by-step instructions for the supplemented photo.

Before starting work on insulation, it is necessary to carefully check and prepare the base. Walls intended for bonding foam must be stable, dry, free from dirt, dust, old peeling paint and other contaminants that reduce the adhesion of the adhesive solution. The ideal way to clean walls is by pressure water cleaning or mechanical cleaning (eg wire brushes or grinders). In case of large accumulations of mosses and algae, the use of biocidal agents is recommended.

Base leveling

When assessing a base, it is very important to monitor its condition. Using a hammer, you can find a dull sound indicating plaster peeling. You must remove such a fragment and plaster the resulting cavity. It is also recommended to beat off the plaster from the outside of the slopes of window and door openings, thus allowing the insulation of the slopes with foam plastic with a thickness of 3 to 5 centimeters. If there are coatings on the substrate, such as paint, check its load-bearing capacity by scratching with a sharp instrument or sticking tape. If partial separation occurs old paint, the base should be considered weak and must be thoroughly cleaned. In the event of irregularities, depressions larger than 10 mm, they must be leveled with a leveling mortar.

Surface priming

Dusty walls should be primed with a deep penetration primer before bonding the foam.

Checking the strength of the base

If you are in doubt about the strength of the wall surface, an adhesion test should be performed. For this purpose, on a properly prepared surface, we glue 8-10 polystyrene foam samples measuring 10 x 10 cm in different places. For gluing foam samples, a solution of a layer of adhesive 10 mm thick is used. Samples of foam with the applied solution should be pressed against specially designated places on the wall surface. After a minimum of 3 days, an attempt should be made to manually peel off the glued foam. If a rupture occurs in expanded polystyrene, this indicates sufficient strength of the base and adhesion of the adhesive. If the Styrofoam samples come off the wall surface along with the layer of adhesive mass, this means that the walls were not properly prepared or that the top layer does not have sufficient strength.

Installation of the basement profile

Before bonding the foam boards, the base profiles must be fixed. To do this, you need to determine the height of the base with the help of a chopping cord to make marks on the base. Then fix the profiles with dowels - on average, 3 pcs are used. on running meter... In case of unevenness in the wall, backing should be used. It is recommended to connect the profiles using special mounting clips. Plinth profiles, in addition to determining the level and facilitating the installation of thermal insulation materials, are responsible for protecting the thermal insulation from open fire, dampness and destruction, insects, birds or rodents.

When installing base / plinth profiles on internal or outer corner buildings, you should pay special attention to the correctness of their installation (see photo). The use of special connectors is also possible.

Preparation of adhesive mortar

Before you start gluing the foam, you must properly prepare the adhesive solution. A suitable adhesive solution should be used to glue the foam. Mix the contents of the bag thoroughly with about 5.5 liters of clean, cold water using a low-speed drill with a suitable agitator. After obtaining a homogeneous mass, without lumps, before use, you should wait about 10 minutes and mix again. The prepared solution is suitable for use for a period of 2.5 to 3 hours. During the work, it is necessary to periodically stir the solution approximately every 30 minutes. It is not allowed to add water to the prepared solution in order to "improve" its consistency.

Application of the solution to expanded polystyrene

Depending on the type of substrate, the adhesive solution can be applied to the foam in several ways. In the case of insulating a flat surface, the adhesive solution is applied to the boards using a notched float with a notch size of 10-12 mm. In other cases, the mortar should be applied using the "circle - point" method, that is, using a trowel along the contour of the slab in a strip about. 3-4 cm and additional cakes in the amount of 3-8 pieces. The size of the cakes should depend on the quantity. The amount of glue located on the edge should be enough so that after pressing the board, the glue solution does not go beyond its limits. It is necessary to ensure that the adhesive solution covers at least 40% of the surface of the board (see photo correct application glue on foam).

Bonding foam boards around window and door openings

Slabs should be selected (cut) near window and door openings so that the horizontal and vertical seams between the slabs do not coincide with the edges of the holes (see photo). This arrangement will prevent future cracks in the finish.

Plane control of glued foam

Pay attention that in the process of gluing the foam, the level and evenness of the entire surface is observed using a plumb line or level.

Filling the gaps between plates made of thermal insulation material

Gaps between the boards of more than 2 mm should be filled with strips cut from the foam boards. In the case of gaps less than 4 mm in systems using expanded polystyrene boards, it is also allowed to fill them with polyurethane foam. It is not allowed to fill the joints with mortar, which is used for gluing the boards due to the occurrence of cold bridges, as well as the risk of cracks along the joints of the boards.

Leveling the surface of the glued foam

After gluing the foam boards should be a flat surface. Protruding irregularities (bumps) should be sanded with a special float or sandpaper. Grinding the surface of the boards can be done not earlier than 72 hours from the moment of their gluing.

Fastening foam with a dowel-umbrella

If it is necessary to use additional protection of the foam from tearing, that is, when the tensile strength of the base is less than 0.08 MPa or the height of the building exceeds 20 m, mechanical connections, a dowel with an umbrella made of plastic or metal should be used.

Drilling holes and installing an umbrella plug

The installation of the dowels can be started no earlier than 3 days after gluing the expanded polystyrene boards, that is, after the adhesive has set.

It is believed that the depth of penetration of the rod deep into the wall should be:

at least 5-6 cm - solid base (concrete, brick, sand-lime brick or stone);
at least 8-9 cm - the base is porous (aerated concrete, hollow brick and shell rock).

The number of dowels for polystyrene is from 4 to 6 pcs / m². When determining the length of the dowels, consider the thickness old plaster, the adhesive layer and the thickness of the thermal insulation material. It should be borne in mind that, in spite of the bearing capacity of the foundation, in the case of buildings with a height of more than 20 m, it is imperative to use mechanical connections. The edge zones of the building, where the greatest forces caused by the wind arise, that is, from 1 to 2 m from the edge, the insulation project should provide for an increased number of dowels in these places.

Installation of dowel-umbrellas

The dowel rods should not protrude beyond the plane of the umbrella. An ideal option, to prevent the formation of cold bridges, is to milling holes to a depth of 2 cm, in which the umbrella dowel is recessed. Then the space above it should be covered with the remains of foam. Wrong - this is sinking the umbrella with a hammer. Excessive deepening of the umbrella in the material can lead to cracks (rupture) of the umbrellas, which as a result weakens the load-bearing capacity of the system.

Preparation of glue for foam reinforcement

To make a layer reinforced with a fiberglass mesh in a polystyrene foam system, it is necessary to use an adhesive solution intended for reinforcing foam plates. The entire contents of the bag should be thoroughly mixed with an appropriate amount of clean water using a slow-speed drill equipped with an agitator. Then the mass should be kept for about 10 minutes and mixed again. Periodic stirring of the solution every 30 minutes is recommended. Depending on the temperature, the solution is suitable for use for about 2.5 to 3 hours. Do not add water to the prepared solution in order to "improve" its consistency.

The adhesive is applied to the foam in a continuous layer about 3mm thick. To apply the mortar, a notched trowel with a notch size of 10-12 mm is used. The adhesive is applied in vertical stripes of the width of the fiberglass mesh.

Recessed fiberglass mesh

After applying the adhesive solution to the mesh, it is necessary to carefully sink, starting from the top, pressing it across the entire width. The mesh should be evenly stretched over the entire surface, without waves, humps or bulges. To ensure the correct functioning of the layer, the reinforcement mesh must be recessed in the middle of the mortar thickness. It is not allowed to attach the reinforcing mesh directly to umbrellas or glue applied with a trowel. Too deep or too shallow immersion of the mesh can lead to cracking and formation of humps in the reinforcement layer. The thickness of the mortar layer when using one mesh should be from 3 to 5 mm.

When embedding the mesh into the layer of mortar, you should pay attention to the vertical and horizontal edges of the mesh overlapping each other, at least 10 cm. nets - move the net to the adjacent wall by about 15 cm. In case the walls of the building are prone to impacts and mechanical damage, given their location, it is necessary to apply a double fiberglass net along the entire height of the walls of the first floor. After the adhesive mortar, in which the first layer of fiberglass mesh was immersed, has hardened, apply the second layer of the mortar and sink another layer of mesh in it. The thickness of the layer reinforced with a double layer of mesh should be 6-8 mm.

The mesh must be carefully putty, as the leveling of the surface affects the final appearance of the facade. If irregularities occur, they must be sanded with sandpaper - otherwise they will be visible in the structure of thin-layer plaster. Grinding can be carried out when the solution layer is not yet too hard.

Application of paint-primer

After the reinforced layer has dried, no earlier than 3 days from its completion (this period can be extended in case of unfavorable weather conditions) in order to ensure optimal adhesion of the decorative plaster to the base, you can start applying the paint-primer. Work should be carried out at a temperature not lower than + 5 ° C and not higher than + 25 ° C, without precipitation. The primer should be applied with a brush or roller, remembering to apply it evenly over the entire surface. It is not recommended to dilute the paint-primer due to deterioration of its properties.

Decorative plastering

After the primer paint has dried, but not earlier than 24 hours after its application, you can start applying decorative plaster. To prepare it, the entire contents of the package should be thoroughly mixed with about 5.0 liters of clean water until a uniform consistency is obtained. The prepared solution is left for 10 minutes and mixed again (without adding water). The solution prepared in this way is suitable for use for no longer than 1 hour.

Application of thin-layer plasters

During the plastering work, the requirements of the appropriate weather conditions must be observed, both during application and during the drying of the plaster: avoid rain, strong wind and lots of sunshine. The optimum air temperature should be between 5 ° C and 25 ° C, and the relative humidity should not exceed 75%. Due to the large temperature differences between day and night, plastering work is not recommended between November and March. In case of danger due to temperature drop below 5 ° C, the drying time of the plaster (at least 48 hours from the moment of application) should also not be plastering.

If these requirements are met, you can start applying the plaster to the previously primed wall.

Using a steel float, apply the plaster in a thin layer to the thickness of the grain. Then you should smooth the surface, collecting excess material. After a while, depending on the conditions that arise during the application process, we trowel the plaster with a plastic float. In order to avoid a visible line of contact between the fresh and already hardened plaster layer, a sufficient number of workers and scaffolding must be provided. When applying decorative plaster, avoid interruptions during the application of the coat and adhere to the general rule of "wet on wet". Due to the increased absorption of thermal and ultraviolet radiation on facades facing south and west, it is not recommended to use dark colors; the number of such colors on the surface of the facade should not exceed 10%.

Rubbing plaster

The plastering should be started if the plaster mass does not stick to the plastic float. This time depends on air and soil temperature, relative humidity and material thickness. To complete the texture, you need to use a plastic float and, depending on the structure of the plaster, we give it suitable model... Keep in mind to press down on the grater with the same force, keeping it at a constant angle.

Plaster type "bark beetle"

Plaster with a bark beetle structure depends on the movement of the float. You can draw vertical, horizontal, diagonal or circular indentations of a specific width, depending on the size of the crumb.

Painting plaster

The paint can be applied by brush, roller or mechanically by spraying, always in two layers. Thinning of the first layer of paint is allowed, especially if work is carried out at temperatures close to the maximum permissible (+ 25 ° C). To dilute silicate paints, use a special primer (solvent) in an amount of up to 5%, and the rest of the paints can be diluted with pure water in an amount of up to 10%.

In the case of the second coat, the paint should be applied undiluted. During work, you should adhere to the appropriate weather conditions, i.e. avoid a large amount of sunlight, strong winds and precipitation. The optimum air temperature should be between 5 ° C and 25 ° C, and the relative humidity should not exceed 75%

Do you want to get cozy and warm accommodation, where the temperature does not depend on the vagaries of the weather? Then you should insulate the walls from the outside with foam. Not sure where to start or how to get started? In this case, study this article - it will give you answers to your questions.

First, let's get acquainted with the material that will be discussed in the article. Foam is a polymer insulation produced in the form of plates white... The material has a pronounced granular structure, and each individual grain contains many voids filled with gas. It is their presence that gives the foam excellent thermal insulation qualities. You can familiarize yourself with other material properties from the table.

Table. Polyfoam - the main characteristics.

Important! When buying polystyrene, pay attention to the fact that it has flame retardant additives, and the pores in the grains contain incombustible carbon dioxide.

The advantages of foam include:

low cost;
good thermal insulation qualities;
low weight;
convenience in processing and installation;
unattractiveness to bacteria and fungus;
high durability.

As for the disadvantages of polystyrene, there are two of them. The first is the flammability of the material. The second is low vapor permeability, which, in the event of an error in design or installation of insulation, can lead to the appearance of mold on the main wall.

The main task performed by insulation is to move the dew point outward. Consider three options for buildings.

In the first case, there is only a wall without any insulation. The dew point is located inside the material, there is a significant temperature difference between its outer and inner sides. As a result, a lot of heat escapes through the wall, condensation forms in the house, and the service life of the material drops significantly due to dampness.
In the second case, the insulation is located from the inside. The dew point shifts to the area between it and the wall. Heat loss is significantly reduced, but dampness remains. There is also a risk of mold between the insulation and the wall.
In the third case, the insulation is located outside, the dew point is shifted behind the wall of the house. The latter is now not subject to dampness and does not lose heat.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Preparation of external walls for insulation

Construction work related to the insulation of the facade of the house with foam plastic begins with the preparation of the walls. They need to be cleaned, leveled, primed, etc. All these actions are described in more detail in step by step instructions below.

Step 1. Use scaffolding to work at heights above human height. You can make them yourself from the beams and boards available on the site, but it is safer to use factory-made products.

Scaffolding prices

Scaffolding

Step 2. Examine the walls for various defects. Seal cracks and holes, cut off the build-up of mortar. Prepare holes for water and gas pipelines and other utilities.

Step 3. Primer deeply penetrate the wall. Since the house in the example is composed of aerated concrete blocks, two layers will be required. For the first time, the primer must be thinned by adding water from one third to one half of the total volume.

Important! Priming in two layers is necessary not only for aerated concrete, but also for other porous materials such as foam blocks and sand-lime bricks.

Step 4. Apply a second coat of primer, but not diluted with water.

After completing the preparation, proceed with the installation of expanded polystyrene boards. In this case, their fastening on the wall will be combined - both glue and dowels with "umbrellas" are used.

The process itself will include:

laying polystyrene foam for insulation on ordinary walls of the house;
on window and doorways;
at the corners;
to the space under the roof of the cottage.

For all processes from this list, separate step-by-step instructions have been compiled, which can be found in the subsections of the article presented below.

Working with regular walls

Let's start insulating the house outside with foam. Let's start with a relatively simple one - installing the first row of expanded polystyrene plates and laying them on ordinary walls.

Step 1. Measure how flat the walls of the house you are insulating are, identify the presence of differences in thickness. To do this, use either a tensioned thread or a laser level.

Step 2. At the bottom of the wall, set a mark and draw a line from it along which the first row of polystyrene foam boards will be laid.

Important! In this case, when insulating the walls from the outside, the foam is laid directly on the foundation - it is even enough for this. In other situations, install a special aluminum support profile before installing the expanded polystyrene boards.

Step 3. Knead the adhesive for installing the polystyrene foam insulation. To do this, dilute the dry mixture in water. Select proportions based on the instructions printed on the glue package. Stir the solution using a mixer or drill with a suitable attachment, working at low speeds.

Step 4. Prepare EPS boards for the first row of insulation. In this case, a cutout is created in each of them, as in the diagram below. Carry out cutting of expanded polystyrene plates using a special table with a red-hot nichrome thread. In the absence of such equipment, use a hacksaw with a fine tooth.

Step 5. Apply glue to the first block. To begin with, make a thin strip around the perimeter, pressing the trowel into the expanded polystyrene. Then add more mortar, bringing the layer thickness to 25-30 mm. In the center of the block, apply several glue points, their number depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe insulation element.

Application of a second layer, more voluminous. In the process of working with it, be careful - the glue should not get on the ends of the foam block

Ceresit glue prices

Ceresit glue

Step 6. Test the styrofoam block. The purpose of the event is to find out what proportion of the total area is occupied by glue. To do this, lean the block against the wall and then set it back. Depending on the thickness of the insulation layer, the adhesive contact area should be 40-60% of the total.

Step 7. On paper or directly on the wall, prepare the marks along which the expanded polystyrene blocks will be exposed. Lay the slabs in the same way as brickwork - the upper row is shifted to the side relative to the lower one so that the vertical seams do not coincide. The permissible distance is from 15 cm, otherwise the seams will become "cold bridges". You can familiarize yourself with the layout of the foam blocks in the images below.

Step 8. Start laying the first block - apply the adhesive on it as shown earlier, lean against the marked place and lean back. Then align the position of the product. A thread stretched along the upper edge of the first row of blocks and a regular building level will help you with this.

Important! Use small pieces of Styrofoam to support the first row of blocks.

Step 9. Following the same principle as in the previous step, lay the second, third and subsequent blocks of the first row.

Step 10. Then lay the rest of the rows foam insulation... You can read about how to do this on corners and openings in the following subsections of the article. Dock the blocks tightly to each other, fill the gaps with expanded polystyrene glue, polyurethane foam or thin pieces of material.

Step 11. After the glue or polyurethane foam, with which you filled the joints between the blocks, has dried, cut off the excess with a construction knife.

Step 12. Determine with the help of the rule how even the layer of insulation is. Grind the protruding areas with a special float.

Insulation of corners

Installation of insulation at the corners is carried out according to the following scheme - from one of the sides, the block extends beyond the wall boundary at a distance equal to the thickness of the block installed on the second side. On the next row, the order of arrangement of foam insulation elements changes to the strictly opposite. By a similar principle, the blocks are installed on the inner corners. For a better idea, check out the images below.

Now let's look at how the foam blocks are actually installed on the corners of the building.

Step 1. Mark one of the foam blocks. Select the part that will go beyond the edge of the wall at the corner and the part that will be glued to the surface.

Step 2. On the part of the block that is glued to the wall at the corner, apply the previously mixed solution. Perform this operation carefully - the glue should not get on another part of the product, which you previously separated using the markings.

Step 3. Lean the block against the wall to allow the adhesive to adhere to the surface. Align horizontally and vertically, making sure to use a building level.

Prices for building levels

Building levels

Step 4. Measure how long you need the block to fit on the other side of the corner. Cut off any excess with a fine-toothed hacksaw.

Step 5. Apply glue to the back of the foam and install the unit on the other side of the corner. Dock it tightly with the item you installed a few operations ago.

Step 6. Cut off the protruding part of the first block with a hacksaw. In the end, you should have a right angle without any defects. If there is a gap between the blocks, then cover it with special foam glue or polyurethane foam. Following the same principle as described in this manual, work with the rest of the outer and inner corners of the building.

Insulation of window / door openings and walls next to them

To begin with, consider the principle by which the walls are insulated near the doorway. Here, the main task for you will be to ensure sufficient space for opening and closing. There are two options for installing the frame and door.

The door is installed flush with the outer side of the insulation layer. In this case, you need special fasteners for it and support in the form of channels. You can see the diagrams of their installation in the image below.
The door is installed flush with the main wall. As a result, it turns out "recessed" in the insulation. To ensure the normal opening of the door, the expanded polystyrene has to be sawed along the edges of the opening.

Let's imagine the process of installing insulation near the doorway in the form of step-by-step instructions. In this case, an option is being considered with the installation of the frame and the door itself at the level with the main wall.

Step 1. Select the required number of blocks and file them off the edge with a regular fine-toothed hacksaw.

Step 2. Install a frame in the doorway if not already done.

Step 3. Degrease the surface of the door frame.

Step 4. Prepare the required number of profiles for thermal insulation of openings. Unpack them, measure and cut. In this case, the edges of the profile, adjacent to the corners of the openings, must be cut at an angle of 45 °.

Step 5. Remove the protective tape from the profile adhesive and fix it on one side of the opening. Make sure the profile fits snugly against the surface.

Step 6. Using the same principle, glue the profiles to the other sides of the opening. In the corners, join them tightly to each other with cuts made at an angle of 45 ° in one of the previous stages of work.

Step 7. Prepare fiberglass strips. Their width should be equal to the thickness of the insulation layer plus 10 cm for fixing on the main wall. In this case, the strip is cut from a single net roll.

Step 8. Along the perimeter of the opening, apply a 10 cm wide strip of adhesive mixture to the wall.

Step 9. Place one edge of the glass mesh strip against the adhesive applied in the previous step. Press the material to it, literally "drown".

Step 10. Apply another layer of glue on top of the part of the mesh leaning against the wall.

Step 11. Repeat the previous steps with the mesh for the other sides of the doorway.

Step 12. Install foam blocks with cut edges around the perimeter of the opening.

The situation with window openings is roughly similar - the block itself with a frame and glass can be installed both in the depth of the opening and on its edge. In the first case, a gap appears between the outer layer of insulation and the window, which is closed with narrow strips of foam. They are glued to the inner surfaces of the opening.

In the second version, the window is mounted on the edge of the opening, adjoining the frame to the insulation layer on the outer wall. This method is more effective in terms of thermal insulation.

It is also worth saying that the joints of the expanded polystyrene blocks should not coincide with the joint of the window block with the opening. Therefore, along the perimeter, the insulation is installed in the form of products with L-shaped notches. There are two options for how to do this, and they are presented in the images below.

The process of insulating walls with foam near window openings in many ways resembles that for a doorway. Here's a step-by-step guide.

Step 1. Install window block, slide it closer to the edge of the opening and secure there well.

Step 2. Remove the protective film from the frame and degrease it.

Step 3. Stick a special profile around the frame.

Step 4. Apply a 10 mm wide strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the profile.

Step 5. On the glue applied in the previous step, fix the fiberglass strip using the same principles as for the doorway.

Step 6. Cut the blocks in accordance with the diagrams outlined in the images in this section of the article. Secure around the perimeter of the opening.

Important! While fixing the foam under the window opening, make a slight tilt necessary to install the ebb.

As for the space under the roof, here the difference from working with ordinary walls is that it is necessary to pre-cut blocks with different and complex shapes from the foam.

Installation of fixing umbrellas on foam

For a more reliable connection of the insulation layer with the main wall, fixing "umbrellas" are used, also known as disc dowels.

Step 1. Determine the length of the disc dowel you need. It consists of the thickness of the insulation layer (in this case it is 200 mm), the adhesive layer (15 mm), the length of the expansion part of the dowel (60 mm) and another 20 mm of the reserve. Also, decide on which of the schemes shown in the image below you will mount the fasteners.

Step 2. Unpack the disc dowels, check if the parameters of the product correspond to those you need.

Step 3. Prepare a drill with a hole depth stop, adjust the latter to the value you need.

Step 4. Mark the points for the disc dowels and drill holes there.

Step 5. Insert the foot of the disc plug into the hole so that the cap is flush with the foam surface. Then use the special drill bit and screw the spacer part of the fastener, then close it with the protective cap.

In some disc dowels, the spacer is not twisted, but clogged. You can see an example of how to work with them in the images below.

Some builders believe that disc dowels in foam insulation are “cold bridges”. They fight this problem in the following way: using a special cutter, they cut a cylindrical recess in expanded polystyrene, insert fasteners there and fix it. Then the disc dowel is closed with the foam cover cut out earlier.

Prices for popular models of rotary hammers

Perforators

Video - Insulation of the facade of the cottage with expanded polystyrene

Insulation reinforcement

On the installation of expanded polystyrene blocks, the process of wall insulation from the outside does not end - the material must be protected with a reinforcing mesh and plaster mixture.

Step 1. Prepare a plaster-adhesive mixture of dry powder and water. Choose the proportions based on the recipe printed on the package. Mix the mortar with a construction mixer.

Step 2. Start with windows and doors. On the inner surface of their openings, apply a thin layer of plaster and glue mixture and level it.

Step 3. Reinforcing mesh, laid on the inner surface of the openings in one of the previous sections of the article, press against the glue mixture and drown in it. Smooth over everything with a rectangular trowel.

Step 4. In the same way as in the previous operation, press the mesh belonging to the previously installed profile to the adhesive layer and drown it.

Step 5. Repeat the previous three steps for all sides of the window opening.

Step 6. At the corners near the openings, apply strips of adhesive at a 45 ° angle. Then lay the reinforcing mesh on them and smooth it with a trowel. Such areas near openings are called "kerchiefs".

Step 7. Measure the corner profile to the required length. Apply a layer of glue mixture along the outer perimeter of the window, then lean the profile with the mesh against it and the inner surface of the opening and smooth with a rectangular trowel.

Step 8. Use the same principle to install corner profiles on other surfaces of the window opening.

Step 9. TO inner corners the opening, attach a small rectangle or square made of reinforcing mesh, straighten and smooth with an adhesive mixture.

Step 10. Repeat steps two through nine for each individual window and door opening.

Step 11. Apply glue solution around the perimeter of the house to the bottom of the insulation. Then attach the drip profile there. Install it so that no air pockets remain between it and the insulation. Control the process with a building level.

Step 12. Apply another layer of plaster over the mesh of the drip profile and smooth with a rectangular trowel.

Step 13. According to the same principles as outlined above, install the corner profile - apply an adhesive layer, attach the product to it, sink it into the mesh and smooth everything from above.

Step 14. Now proceed to reinforce the entire surface of the walls. Cut lengths from the roll with a net that matches the height of the insulated walls of the house.

Step 15. On top of the expanded polystyrene, apply a layer of plaster and adhesive mixture and smooth with a notched trowel.

Step 16. Lay a reinforcing mesh sheet on top of the adhesive layer, press it down and cover it with another layer of mortar. Smooth everything thoroughly - irregularities and cavities with air are unacceptable.

Step 17. Lay the next section of the net side by side in the same way. There must be at least 100 mm overlap between it and the previous one.

Step 18. Let the glue mixture dry a little (but not completely!) And scrape off any irregularities.

Step 19. Using the rule, search for concavities on the glue layer applied over the insulation. Then line them up by adding a little more mixture in the right places.

Step 20. After the finally hardened adhesive mixture, make another leveling of the surface - puttying.

The easiest way to insulate a house is to sheathe it with foam. The material is inexpensive, installation is easy to do on your own, the energy-saving effect is obvious. And in order to protect such a sheathing from the harmful effects of the environment, you need to choose a suitable coating for it. Read more.

After the putty hardens, the insulation of the walls from the outside with foam plastic can be considered complete. Next, you just have to apply a finishing decorative finish in accordance with your tastes and preferences.

High-quality thermal insulation at home helps not only to save money, but also to increase the comfort in the home. can be both outside and inside, especially if funds for repairs are limited. There is an excellent 100% way of insulating walls from the inside with foam + video instructions, after studying which it will not be difficult to do all the work yourself.

Benefits of Styrofoam

There are a lot of heat-insulating materials, but foam has been in demand for more than one year, due to its properties:

Styrofoam has its drawbacks: it is damaged by mice, is highly flammable, and emits pungent smoke when burning. To minimize the burnout of the thermal insulation layer in the event of a fire, you should choose a heater with a high content of fire retardants and high density, and as exterior decoration use only non-flammable materials.

Conditions for wall insulation from the inside

There are certain conditions when it is possible to perform internal thermal insulation, and when it is not. With improper insulation, condensation appears on the walls, a fungus develops under the layer of insulation, and gradual destruction occurs. Condensation indicates the location of the dew point, and its occurrence depends on the humidity and temperature in the home. The table will help determine the dew point:

In addition, other factors are also important: the presence of a ventilation system, the quality of heating, the mode of operation of the dwelling, the thickness load-bearing walls, region of residence.

Based on this, perform internal insulation walls are possible under the following conditions:

people are constantly living in the house;
the ventilation system fully meets the established standards;
heating works smoothly;
insulation is planned for all surfaces;
the walls always stay dry.

In all other cases only allowed.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

The process, although simple, requires careful preparation. First you need to calculate the number of foam sheets, prepare tools and additional materials. Standard sizes sheets:

width - 1 m and 0.5 m;
length - 1 and 2 m;
thickness - 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and 100 mm.

For internal thermal insulation, foam plastic 1x0.5 m and 1x1 m, 50 mm thick, is best suited. Large sheets will still have to be cut out, and transporting them is not very convenient. To calculate the required amount of material, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room must be divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone plate and add 10%, since there will be waste when cutting the insulation.

Additionally you will need:

Step 1. Cleaning the walls

The foam is attached to a clean, dry and even wall, so first dismantle the old coating. Wallpaper, decorative plaster, panels and other finishes are removed completely, but paint should be removed only if there are peels or cracks. If the wall is flat, completely intact, the paint layer is very durable, you can immediately start insulation.

Step 2. Alignment

After dismantling the coating, the walls are carefully inspected for damage. For sealing deep grooves and cracks, use cement mortar, smaller defects can be smoothed out. Be sure to check the surface with a level to make sure there are no irregularities.

After drying, the treated areas are rubbed with sandpaper, and then the entire wall is covered with anti-fungal properties. If the wall material is too porous, it is recommended to apply the primer in two layers.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Step 3. Installation of insulation under windows and batteries

The first to insulate problem areas - windows, radiators, door slopes.

First, the area to be insulated is accurately measured, and then the measurements are transferred to the foam. Cut off the sheet according to the marking and apply it to the wall. When all the fragments are fitted, you can start editing. According to the instructions, the glue is diluted with water, stirred well, and allowed to nourish. The adhesive is applied to the foam according to the following scheme:

The adhesive layer should be uniform and thin. After that, a piece of insulation is applied to the corresponding section of the wall, leveled and pressed tightly with your hands. Next, the next fragment is attached until the entire area is covered with foam.

Step 4. Wall insulation

It is much easier to insulate open sections of the wall. They start from the bottom: a sheet of polystyrene is covered with glue, placed against the wall and set at a level, then pressed tightly over the entire area.

Adjacent sheets are laid so that there are no gaps at the seams. Vertical joints must be shifted by half of the sheet, that is, in a checkerboard pattern. The whole process is constantly monitored with a level, otherwise skews or irregularities in the horizontal plane may form. When the entire area is covered with foam, you need to take a break for 2-3 days so that the glue is completely dry.

Step 5. Sealing and fixing with dowels

If in the process of fastening the sheets at the joints there are gaps, you will need polyurethane foam for embedding. Do not use foam with toluene - it destroys the structure of the insulation. Slots 4 cm wide or more are first filled with pieces of foam, and then blown out with foam.

After 3 hours, the excess foam from the treated joints is carefully cut off with a sharp knife, and the seams themselves are coated with glue. Further, each sheet is strengthened with dowels-fungi and in 4-5 places. Such a combined fixation of the insulation will ensure maximum fit and reliability during operation.

Step 6. Reinforcement and plaster

The heat-insulating layer must be covered from external influences. The easiest way is to apply plaster. To do this, first, strips are cut from the reinforcing strip along the height of the wall with a small margin; the first strip is applied to the wall and the plaster mortar is applied with a spatula along the upper edge so that it holds the mesh.

The layer is made up to 5 mm thick. After that, the solution is applied with a spatula from top to bottom and over the entire width of the strip. On the side where the adjacent strip will be attached, you need to leave a vertically protruding edge of the mesh 2 cm wide.

An important point: the reinforcement is first performed along the perimeter of door and window openings, behind the radiators, at the slopes and in the corners, and only then on the open sections of the wall. Along the edges of the strip, they overlap by 1 cm; the layer of plaster should be evenly distributed over the walls, completely covering the mesh.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Step 7. Final finishing

The dry surface is treated with a special float or sandpaper, periodically wetting the walls with water. The wall smoothed in this way is covered with 1-2 layers of finishing putty, then sanded, primed and painted.

If artistic plaster is used instead of paint, the filler and sanding process can be skipped. At this, the insulation of the walls inside the house is considered complete.