Floor insulation in a frame house on piles. Insulation of the floor in a house on screw piles: features of the subfloor arrangement, materials and methods of insulation Decking on piles

Floor in frame house should be done by wooden beams overlaps. Most often, the finished structure is in contact with the outside air. This is due to the fact that the pile screw foundation is popular for the construction of light structures. Such supports raise the building above the ground, leaving free space between it and the ceiling, which is blown through by air.

The device of the floor in a frame house requires its mandatory insulation. Without this, there is a high probability of mold and mildew, and walking on a cold surface is not a pleasant activity.

Cake designs

First of all, you need to make an overlap in a frame house. It will also be a black floor at the same time. The main floor beams must be securely fastened to the grillage.

It is important to know that waterproofing is required between metal piles and wooden beams. It is necessary in order to protect against negative effects elements that have different characteristicsespecially natural humidity. For waterproofing, roll material is laid in two layers. You can use roofing material, linokrom or hydroizol. Sometimes outdated roofing paper or glassine is found. It is not advisable to use them.

Load bearing base of the floor frame house can be done in two ways:

• using the main beams;
• using main and secondary beams.

Secondary beams or more simply logs allow you to increase the pitch of the main beams. But this option increases the scope of work, increases the material consumption and the thickness of the overlap.

The Right Floor Pie

In the absence of secondary beams, the main beams are also used as logs. The correct pie in this case is as follows (listing from bottom to top):

• cranial bars up to 50x50 mm, which are attached laterally at the bottom load-bearing beams overlapping;
• filing from boards;
• moisture and wind protection;
• bearing beams with insulation between them;
• vapor barrier material;
• subfloor boards or chipboard with a thickness of about 16 mm.

How to make a floor in a frame house

As the floor beams, they take a timber or edged board with a section of 5x15 cm on average. The exact dimensions depend on the span length and element spacing. The boards are installed so that the larger side is vertical and the smaller side is horizontal. When mounted, on the contrary, the bearing capacity is greatly reduced.

All wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic before use. Such a substance allows you to protect the floor cake in a frame house from rotting and mold. Additionally, you can perform a flame retardant treatment. This will increase the fire resistance of the structures and make the home safer.

To make the floor in a frame house with your own hands, the main floor beams and at the same time the logs are fixed to the foundation grillage on the piles. Elements must be placed on top. Side fastening does not provide high reliability. There are two ways: with or without a cut. The cut allows you to securely fix the elements, but loosens the strapping. For this reason, it is recommended to do without it.

Anchor bolts are used as fastening tools. They are fixed in a harness. To fasten the beams, you will have to prepare holes in them. To do this, the logs are laid out on the anchors and hit at the place of support with a hammer. There will be a dent in the right place. After making the holes, the floor beams are laid in place, and on top of them the nuts are tightened onto the anchor. Additionally, it is recommended to use washers. This is because small metal elements can be sunk into softwood.

After the installation of the main supporting structures, they proceed to fixing the cranial bars. Such elements are necessary in order to lay the filing boards on them. The bars are fixed on self-tapping screws, nails or hairpins. The sizes are chosen depending on the load: the weight of the filing and insulation, as well as the distance between the bearing beams. The most commonly used bars are 50x50 mm or less.

Decking is made on the cranial bars. It will serve as a base for insulation. Fastening - on nails or screws. For manufacturing, take a board treated with an antiseptic, 25-40 mm thick. Waterproofing and windproof material is laid on the filing. It is fixed with a construction stapler, and the joints are glued with tape. The minimum overlap at the joints is 10 cm.

It is recommended to use modern vapor-diffusion moisture-windproof membranes as wind protection and waterproofing. They replaced tapes. The main advantage of this material is vapor permeability. The membrane does not interfere with the "breathing" of the house and effectively removes steam outside, protecting the insulation from moisture.

Insulation is placed between the bearing beams. It must be protected from internal steam with a vapor barrier. Here, too, there is a choice: films or membranes. When building your home, you should choose best materials... But the membrane will cost more than the film.

The subfloor in the frame house is completed after the installation of the flooring. Between it and the insulation, you need to leave a gap of 2-3 cm thick for ventilation. A 40 mm thick edged board is used for flooring. The width is usually taken as 100 mm. Like all other elements, the flooring must be impregnated with an antiseptic. The boards are fastened to the logs with nails or self-tapping screws. Choose galvanized fasteners that are corrosion resistant.

Insulation of floors

Several types of materials are used for thermal insulation of floors. There is no strength limit here, since the insulation is placed between the logs and does not perceive the payload.

Among the isolation options are widespread:

• mineral wool;
• styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex);
• penoizol (in the form of foam).

Mineral wool has become a popular option. This is justified by the favorable cost of the material, its availability and technology simplicity. Another advantage is vapor permeability, wool does not interfere with the natural ventilation of the building. In order not to have to cut the slabs, it is recommended to assign a lag step so that a distance of 580 or 1180 mm remains in the light between them. This will allow the insulation to be laid tightly and without scraps.

Floor insulation scheme with mineral wool

There are several types of mineral wool. Basalt in hard slabs is best suited. Glass wool is inconvenient to work with, and slag wool is made from industrial waste.

The thickness of the insulation is assigned by calculation, depending on the climatic region. On average, this will be a value from 5 to 15 cm. For accurate calculations, it is recommended to use the TEREMOK program. It can be easily found freely available as a PC application or online version. For calculations, you will need to select a settlement from the list, the type of structure to be calculated, the thickness of the insulation and its thermal conductivity. The latter characteristic is easy to find out from the manufacturers.

Warm floor in a frame house

The construction of buildings with warm water floors is gaining popularity. This option allows you to make your home comfortable without serious costs. Water heating costs much less electric.

To lay pipes inside the cake, a special flooring design is used. In this case, it is recommended to make a rough floor from a board not 40 mm, but 50 mm. The flooring is not made continuous, but sparse. The distance between the elements is selected so that between them it is possible to lay heat-reflecting plates with heating tubes inside.

Another floor structure in a frame house with water heating is done using a cement screed. The screed is poured over the solid flooring over the supporting beams. Due to the increased load, the flooring is made 50 mm thick.

A plastic wrap is placed on the boards to prevent the leakage of cement laitance. Next, a screed 50-70 mm thick is poured, having previously spread the water pipes along the floor. They must be completely hidden by concrete. A clean floor is laid on top of the screed.

The second method has a significant drawback - increasing the load on the floor. In addition, in the event of a breakdown of the heating system, you will have to break the screed. The first option allows you to simply disassemble the floor and reassemble it.

Frame low-rise construction has long been widespread in Europe. Private "skeletons" are exploited even in countries with cold and harsh climates, and this indicates that the opinion about their inapplicability in our area is wrong. Indeed, competent insulation makes it possible to use frame houses both in severe frosts and in scorching heat.

Frame house building technology is becoming more and more popular due to its many advantages:

• Construction cost. The materials used in frame construction are often cheaper than materials from brick or block houses. The installation process is also less time-consuming, it is often possible to carry out work manually without resorting to the services of expensive special equipment.
• Unification. Many companies offer ready-made erection kits frame houses... All the little things are thought out in them, and often on the exhibition grounds you can see how the future home ownership will look like. Moreover, ready-made kits can be upgraded to meet the needs of the buyer. Such companies have models of houses with a predetermined possibility of increasing the area due to extensions and add-ons without changing the general style. This, of course, is convenient for families with children.
• Ease of construction. Frame houses have a huge difference in weight with brick or block houses. The load on the foundation of frame houses is not more than 380 kilograms per square meter... Of course, this makes it easier to build the foundation. The most popular and rational is the arrangement of a frame house on screw piles.
• Landscape diversity. Frame houses on screw piles can be installed on the site of almost any landscape. Piles can compensate for a significant difference in height, allow you to build a house on a site with high water levels, in a swampy area. A frame house on screw piles can even stand above the surface of the water.

Frame house on stilts

Foundation piles are made of high strength metal. They are equipped at the ends with a knife for screwing into the ground and can even be installed manually. It will take two workers no more than 30 minutes to install one pile.

Features of operation and floor insulation in a frame house

The pile foundation has a number of features. It separates the spaces of the house from the surface of the earth, in contrast to the concrete foundation, which, in one way or another, connects them. This fact has both negative and positive aspects.

When the house is located in a humid area (a high level of groundwater directly under the house or in places with frequent precipitation), a house on screw piles is easier to waterproof. IN concrete foundation moisture from the surface of the earth rises along microcracks on the walls. In frame houses on piles, only waterproofing from moisture from the air is needed.

Nevertheless, often lightweight frame houses on screw piles are erected precisely because of the properties of the soil on the site. At high water levels, the air is usually also humid. Therefore, sufficient attention should be paid to waterproofing when constructing such houses.

In autumn and winter, the ground cools more slowly than air, so houses on a pile foundation require more serious thermal insulation. The same applies to summer, when in stone houses the temperature is lower and rises more slowly than in frame. Frame houses require high-quality and carefully executed thermal insulation.

In the spring and during thaws, a frame house has some advantage over a brick house, because it requires less heating costs.

Floor insulation in a frame house

Floor arrangement technology and insulation

In a frame house on piles, it is carried out at the stage of its creation. The technology is quite simple, does not require high-altitude work and can even be done independently.

When building a house made of wood, or wood-based materials, you need to carefully process the building materials hidden from constant access with fire protection. You can do this with fire retardants, but better with a penetrating compound. It is more expensive than fire retardants, but has no lifespan. In addition, it will be possible to save money on the need to raise the floors and update the fire protection every five years.

In the course of work, a pie of the floor of a frame house is laid on the piles, after which the underground is sewn up.
Frame house floor cake

Work progress:

• On the piles, logs are laid from a rectangular bar, as a rule, with a section. Metal piles must first be insulated from the log with a material such as roofing material.
• Bars are nailed to the lags, and an overlap of sub-floor boards is laid.
• Waterproofing is being laid. It must necessarily fit the lags and go to the walls. Waterproofing can be film, but it is better to use a special perforated membrane.
• Thermal insulation is laid in the space between the lags. It can be mineral wool, polystyrene, expanded clay and much more. The main thing is that the material fits snugly to the lags and docks with each other, otherwise cold bridges will appear and the work will have to be redone. The insulation is laid up to the upper level of the log.
• An optional but recommended layer is a vapor barrier. A perforated membrane is laid with the obligatory approach to the walls.
• The sub-base is laid from sheet material. It can be oriented - strand board or plywood. This layer is not necessary when laying, for example, a plank floor, but significantly reduces the overall thermal conductivity of the frame cake. When further finishing the floor with laminate, tiles, linoleum, carpet, etc., a sheet sub-base is necessary. Moreover, it is often made two-layer for the strength of the floors.
• The "finishing" floor is laid.

If the floor insulation is carried out not at the construction stage, but in an already finished house, then the installation is carried out according to the following plan:

• The upper "finishing" layer of the floor is removed.
• The sub-base is dismantled, if one was laid earlier.
• If necessary, the old vapor barrier, heat insulation and waterproofing are removed. It is unacceptable to reuse film materials, since the holes from the old fasteners have already broken the tightness of the material.
• Implemented assembly work according to the previous plan, starting from point 3.

Types of heaters

Modern thermal insulation is varied both in price and in properties. When choosing a material, you need to decide, firstly, how warm the floor should be. If the building is planned to be used only in the summer, then significant insulation is not required.

In addition, determine what moisture resistance the material should have. It depends on this whether additional waterproofing is needed. There are a lot of materials for floor insulation, we will consider the most common and available ones, consider the characteristics and application features for floor insulation of frame houses:

Stone wool

• Environmentally friendly material - obtained from molten basalt.
• The fibers themselves do not absorb water, but due to the porous structure of the material, mandatory waterproofing is required.
• Laying on a non-continuous crate is allowed.
• The thermal insulation properties are very good.
• Due to its loose structure, it tightly fills the space between the lag.
• Additionally, it provides a soundproofing effect.
• Average price.

Mineral wool

Expanded polystyrene

• Extruded polystyrene foam is an environmentally friendly material.
• Very good thermal insulation.
• The plates fit well together.
• Laying of material on a non-continuous crate is allowed.
• Easy to cut and assemble.
• Absolutely does not absorb moisture and does not allow steam to pass through. With a tight installation, you can do without vapor barrier.
• Not suitable for rodents.
• Modern polystyrene foam is made with fire-fighting additives, therefore it does not burn, but, under the influence of an external fire source, it can melt with an intense release of toxic substances.
• Relatively high price.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded clay

• Eco-friendly material - it is made of clay.
• Does not absorb moisture, but may condense.
• Non-combustible material, which increases the safety of the building.
• A space remains between the expanded clay granules, which can serve as a refuge for rodents.
• Mandatory wind protection and vapor protection is required.
• Weakest degree of thermal insulation of the materials described.
• Low cost.
• Expanded clay is used if a dry screed will be laid in the house.

Expanded clay

Base / plinth finish as a factor in floor insulation

Finishing the basement is the most difficult task, since any flaws in these works will be noticeable.

When decorating a house on screw piles, bricks or blocks are often used, arguing that the subfloor is insulated. This is definitely a wrong statement. The frame cake completely insulates the heat of the house. The subfloor itself is not heated in any way and will still freeze. But, laying a dense brick wall around the basement, air access to this space is completely blocked. This leads to waterlogging, condensation, the development of fungus and swelling of the floor.

The base must be ventilated. If the choice of material for arranging the basement still fell on brick or concrete, then a sufficient number of ventilation holes must be provided.

But it is better to install a false base. Nowadays, many beautiful, durable and environmentally friendly materials are produced for this - siding or special panels with imitation of stone, brick, wood and other textures. Installation of a false ceiling is not only easier to assemble, but can also be dismantled if necessary.

Situations are different - high water in the spring and you need to dry the underground, the animal climbed through the ventilation holes and cannot get out, it became necessary to carry out additional communications and the like.

Although the plinth does not add thermal insulation, it performs another practical function - protecting the subfloor from the penetration of water from the outside (rain, melt water). To do this, the docking assembly between the false base and the blind area is sealed using roll waterproofing.

The blind area of \u200b\u200bthe building can be poured from concrete, paving slabs and any other materials can be laid. But, firstly, the blind area must have a mandatory slope from the building, and, secondly, it must be sealed from underground and false - basement.

Plinth finish

Warming the floor of a frame house on piles is a simple technological process, but the convenience of living in it will depend on the quality of the work. Even before starting work, you need to carefully study the nuances, do not skimp on the choice of materials, carefully and correctly mount them - and the warm floor will delight the inhabitants of the house for many years.

The advent of frame technology for the construction of private houses made it possible to increase the speed of construction several times and reduce financial costs. This is especially true in situations when a pile foundation is used as the foundation for a building. For its arrangement, laborious excavation... There is a reverse side of the coin in this technology. Since the foundation is not solid, and is raised above the ground, the floor of the frame house on screw piles from below is completely open. If not accept additional measures on its insulation, this will inevitably lead to serious heat loss. In the future, they have to be compensated for by an increase in the cost of additional heating of the house.

The house on screw piles seems to hang in the air, and a draft can often walk under it Source kak-sdelat-fundament.ru

Features of the construction of a building on piles

As a rule, a pile foundation is used in the following cases:

When conducting construction works on problem soils (loose, weak, heaving, rocky, swampy).

If the site is not flat, but with differences in height. This often happens when a building is being erected on the side of a mountain or hill.

When there is not enough money for a more expensive monolithic foundation.

The tight deadlines for the construction. As a rule, in such cases, a frame or wooden house is erected on a pile-screw foundation.

The inability to drain excessively wet soil on the site.

The basis of such a foundation is screw piles. This is about metal pipesequipped with a special tip at the end (its shape may differ). The method of immersing screw piles in the soil is very specific: they are not driven in with the help of accented blows, but are screwed manually or mechanized way... In the course of rotation, the pile with its cone-shaped tip bites into the thickness of the earth. To increase the reliability of fastening, the soil is compacted in the course of work.

The strapping of the pile foundation is ready for further work Source stroyfora.ru

To achieve an even distribution of the load from the weight of the building, the tops of the screwed piles are cut one level at a time and equipped with heads. On top of the heads, a continuous strapping (grillage) is arranged, uniting the supports into one load-bearing structure. The grillage can be steel, wood or concrete. In the future, it is the strapping that becomes the basis for arranging the floor and walls of the house. Before the installation of the trim elements, the pile heads are laid waterproofing material (penofol, roofing material or polyethylene). This will protect the floor surface from excessive moisture.

Floor arrangement

When choosing suitable material for a floor in a frame building on a pile foundation, it is recommended to pay attention not only to its strength characteristics, but also to its mass. It is desirable that it be as small as possible, which will relieve the building supports from unnecessary loads. Most suitable option is wood (it is advisable to give preference to aspen, oak or conifers). It must be well dried and free from visible damage.

The base of the floor should start with quality wood - it needs to withstand a lot of stress Source stroy-brus.ru

The arrangement of the floor of the frame building begins immediately after the erection of the pile foundation and the laying of the grillage. In combination with a wooden floor, it is recommended to use coniferous beams with a section of 10x10 cm when constructing the strapping. If the distance between the individual supports for the beams exceeds 3 m, additional racks are installed in the middle of the span.

On top of the fixed beams, logs are mounted: the pitch of their laying is 50 cm. The recommended section of the log is 10X25 cm. Small spans (under the bathroom or corridor) may be covered with a 5x15 cm bar. The strapping elements are equipped with seats for the width of the log. The bars laid in the cuts are fastened to the base with screws, nails or self-tapping screws.

For reliable protection from moisture and harmful insects, the supporting structures of the floor are impregnated with an antiseptic liquid. On the lower cut, the logs are sheathed with a board of 30x30 mm. To make the floor structure stronger, in some cases additional lintels are used, stuffed over the log with a step of 150 cm. This is usually required when using a heated concrete screed inside a frame house. In all other cases, floor insulation is carried out separately.

Jumpers add some strength to the floor Source 1karkasnydom.ru

On our website you can familiarize yourself with the most popular projects of frame houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

Appointment of floor insulation in a pile house

The main feature of a frame building on piles is the presence free space between the ground and the back of the floor. As a result, it is through the bottom floor that the most significant heat loss occurs. This is especially true of structures that are not protected along the perimeter with a false plinth: in this case, the cold wind in winter time freely "walks" underground. It should also be noted that the pile foundation is often used on marshy soils: in this case, not only cold, but also moisture affects the building from below.

If we neglect additional measures for effective thermal insulation of the floor, the owners of the house will have to face the following problems:

Financial costs in the cold season will increase significantly, since significant heat losses will have to be compensated by increasing the temperature of heating radiators. If this is not done, the house will be very uncomfortable.

Accumulation of condensation moisture inside the technical underground. Condensation will begin to form on the surface of the cold floor.

Due to constant moisture, wooden structural elements will rot and become covered with mold and mildew.

Competent insulation of the floor in the house on screw piles will help protect the listed negative phenomena.

A layer of insulation is laid between the lintels, the slots are "blown out" with foam Source 9dach.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of reconstruction and rebuilding of houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

What insulation to use

Insulation for the floor of a frame building on a pile foundation, in addition to the ability to retain heat well, should be lightweight, easy to install and have excellent moisture resistance.

Styrofoam

A fairly good insulation, which is widespread due to its cheapness. However, it should be taken into account that the freezing of the moisture-saturated foam provokes its gradual destruction. As a result, its thermal insulation characteristics drop sharply, and the cold gets direct access to the room. It is allowed to use polystyrene only in combination with reliable moisture protection.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a more expensive modification of foam. It is characterized by excellent strength properties and almost complete absence of water absorption. This allows the material to withstand low temperatures in a constant humidity environment. To communicate the fire-resistant qualities of the penoplex, fire retardants are introduced into its composition.

Mineral wool

An excellent option to equip a warm floor in a frame house. This material is characterized by high thermal insulation characteristics and absolute non-flammability. Mineral wool is not afraid of any biological effects.

As a heater, builders prefer to use mineral wool Source krutopol.com

Weaknesses of the material:

Poor moisture tolerance. If water hits the surface of the insulation material, it will sag and reduce its thermal insulation characteristics.

High cost. For the purchase of mineral wool, you will have to pay an order of magnitude more money than for penoplex.

This material is produced in the form of plates and rolls. The first option is more convenient for thermal insulation of the floor in a building on a pile foundation. Plates have the advantage of rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress.

Expanded clay

In houses on screw piles, this insulation is used quite rarely, which is explained by its low thermal insulation characteristics. To achieve the desired insulating effect, it is necessary to pour a layer of decent thickness: this conceals the living space and makes the total weight of the structure heavier. Those who nevertheless decide to use expanded clay for floor insulation on piles are attracted by the significant ease of its installation.

Pile foundations have gained massive popularity due to their relatively low price and the possibility of using them with poor soil characteristics. Such structures are quickly assembled and can be used for almost any type of structure. Thermal insulation of the floor pie in a frame house on piles has its own characteristics that must be taken into account in order to avoid problems during further operation.

When erecting a building on screw piles, it is necessary to take into account that the house does not have a basement or basement, but there is a ventilated underground. Such foundations are used mainly in swampy areas, therefore, another important factor during operation will be the increased humidity of the space under the house.

When building a house on screw foundations it is important to pay great attention to the performance characteristics of the insulation and additional layers.

As a reliable protection for thermal insulation material and indoor spaces from high humidity, waterproofing and vapor barrier will become, the neglect of which will soon lead to serious problems.

The composition of the floor of a frame house

Bottom view of the ceiling of a house on stilts

To erect a floor over a ventilated space, you need to lay the layers in the following order:

• carrier wooden frame (with subfloor, "bearing" insulation);
• a layer of vapor-permeable wind protection (to protect the insulation from "weathering");
• thermal insulation material;
• steam and waterproofing;
• construction of a clean floor (board + finish floor).

Floor insulation scheme for a house on piles

All materials for a building on screw foundations must be laid in this order. Some sources give an erroneous installation of the vapor barrier from the cold air side, but this does not make sense. Steam is generated in a warm room and settles on colder surfaces, thus forming condensation. To prevent the penetration of condensate into the heat-insulating layer and to reduce the degree of protection of the building from cold, vapor barrier is provided.

Why is insulation necessary

The need for heat-insulating material is not always clear to a person far from construction. From the point of view of the future home owner, it is much easier to build on the load-bearing capacity of the structure.

Neglect of thermal insulation standards can lead to the following problems during the operation of the building:

• condensation on the surface of the floor on the technical underground;
• reduced energy efficiency of the building and increased heating costs;
• high humidity leads to rotting wood, the appearance of mold and mildew, as a result of which wooden structures quickly fail and require expensive repairs.

Insulation of the floor in a frame house allows you to avoid these troubles and ensure a long service life of the building and all its structures individually.

Insulation materials

Attention should be paid not only to the insulation material, but also to vapor barrier, waterproofing and wind protection.

The choice of insulation

Various materials can be used as an insulating layer. It is important to consider the possibility of operation in high humidity conditions. The most rational solutions are the following options:

Mineral wool insulation. Minvata has a large number of advantages, including incombustibility, high thermal insulation characteristics. Not subject to biological influences. The disadvantages include the fact that if water gets on the material, it sags and loses its properties. Compared to other types, this insulation has a fairly high cost. Mineral wool is available in rolls and slabs. For the floor of a house on screw foundations, it is better to use a slab insulation, since it has greater rigidity. Depending on the type of raw materials, stone, glass and slag wool are distinguished. It is important that when working with material, builders need to have protective equipment: overalls, gloves, a mask.

Styrofoam attractive in price and has good thermal performance. It is worth considering that when exposed to low temperatures and high humidity, it can crumble into small balls. Such damage leads to a violation of the thermal protection of the building. If foam is used, it is important to protect it most carefully against moisture penetration.

(known to everyone as "Penoplex") looks very similar to polystyrene, but lacks its main disadvantages. The material has higher strength and low water absorption. Thanks to this, there is no need to fear for its destruction at low temperatures. In addition, extruded polystyrene foam is produced with special additives that allow it to fall into the group of non-combustible materials. The heat-shielding characteristics of these three materials are almost identical.

As another cheap option for warming the floor of a house on screw piles, you can cite expanded clay... It is inferior in terms of thermal insulation performance to all other materials, but it is affordable. It is non-flammable and easy to work with. It is a round shaped transverse clay particle.

Selection of related materials

The next step is to choose waterproofing and wind protection... Modern manufacturers produce materials that combine both of these functions at once. The structure of the ceiling in a house on screw piles is somewhat reminiscent of an inverted pie mansard roof, for the construction of which builders often use moisture-proof and vapor-permeable membranes. This versatile material saves styling time.

A vapor barrier is placed on the insulation. It can be a regular plastic wrap. In addition, special materials can be purchased.

All wooden frame elements are necessarily treated with antiseptic compounds. This helps protect them from mold, mildew and insect damage.

Installation process

Laying the floor pie in a frame house on screw piles is carried out in the following order:

1. Layout of load-bearing beams (lag);
2. attachment parallel to the lags cranial bars small section;
3. stacking boardwalk or plywood;
4. fixed on top of the flooring vapor permeable windscreen;
5. installation insulation differs depending on the type chosen (laying, backfill);
6. it is laid out and fixed on top of the heat-insulating layer polyethylene film or special glued vapor barrier material;
7. erection of a structure flooring.

All the nuances of the technology are revealed in more detail in this video:

The installation process is quite simple, and you can do it yourself, which significantly reduces the financial costs of construction.
Subject to all the rules, the correct order of laying the layers of the floor cake for the house on screw piles and a responsible attitude to the choice of materials, the future owner receives a reliable and durable structure that will protect the building from cold penetration. Self-installation allows you to carefully control the quality of construction.

Foundations on screw piles are not uncommon in frame housing construction. Taking into account the peculiarities of the building, a number of requirements are imposed on the floor of the first floor. The foundation should not only be strong, but lightweight so as not to overload the piles. The thermal insulation aspect is no less important. How to combine these characteristics and properly arrange the floor? Let's try to figure it out.

Floor specifics and requirements for its arrangement

The foundation of a frame on screw piles has many advantages. Among the main advantages are:

• affordable cost;
• short construction time;
• versatility - suitable for sites from difficult terrain and floating grounds.

Despite the significant advantages, the floor of a frame house on screw piles has a clear drawback - a blown underground. Therefore, one of the main tasks of arranging the base is high-quality insulation and waterproofing. Insulation cake solves a number of tasks:

• acts as a barrier between wooden structures and moisture, preventing mold and floor decay;
• increases the energy efficiency of the house;
• prevents the appearance of condensation on the surface of the floors.

In the course of flooring work, a number of important points and requirements must be taken into account. The developer must provide:

1. Treatment of the lower floor trim with an antiseptic. A deep penetrating compound should be used, since conventional impregnation wears out after 6-7 years.
2. Placement of insulation between the lags.
3. Pile pick-up. Thermal insulation of the basement reduces heat loss, prevents the soil from freezing under the house and is part of the decor.
4. Ventilation products. Arrangement of holes with a diameter of 10 cm, the total area of \u200b\u200bthe ventilation ducts is 1/400 of the perimeter of the base.

The general scheme of the floor of a frame house

The upper strapping of beams along the fundamental supports is at the same time lags, which in itself reduces the cost of the construction budget. The structural cake of the floor in a frame house on piles has the following scheme:

1. Rough floor. The base frame is assembled from the lathing and bottom hem. Used as a substrate: edged board, chipboard, OSB or multilayer plywood.
2. Waterproofing. The best option is a perforated membrane, the alternative is a film.
3. Insulation. Insulating material options: basalt wool, extruded polystyrene foam, expanded clay.
4. Vapor barrier. Prevents the formation of condensation and wetting of the insulation layer.
5. Sub-basis. The choice of further technology depends on the type of flooring.

If you plan to lay parquet, laminate or floorboard, then on the floor lay multi-layer plywood... For decoration with tiles or linoleum, a dry screed is suitable. The "water floor" system is installed in a self-leveling screed.

Selection of structural elements and materials

The reliability, durability and thermal efficiency of the floor largely depend on the materials used. Let's consider the acceptable options and mark the unacceptable solutions.

Attention to the quality of floor beams

In frame housing construction, wood is predominantly used for tying screw piles. Usually they take sawn softwood: larch, pine and spruce.

The main requirement is application of dried materials... The moisture content of the timber should not exceed 12%, otherwise deformation of structural parts after their installation is possible.

Arrangement of the grillage is possible in several ways:

1. Laying a monolithic timber measuring 20 * 15 cm. two-storey house you can use a beam of 20 * 20 cm.
2. Grillage from assembled boards. A budget option... Each beam is formed from two to three planks. At the exit, you should get a bar with a section of 20 * 15 cm.

With reliable fixing of boards, the "batch" method is not inferior in strength solid beam strapping.

Bottom cladding options

When choosing a material for the sub-base, remember that it is undesirable to overload screw piles. Therefore, the sheathing must be strong enough, but not heavy. Its main task is to protect against wind and moisture.

What will fit? There are several options here:

1. OSB. Available materialwhich has good strength but is vulnerable to water. Before installation, it requires treatment with a compound designed to protect wood. Weakness - joints of plates. They must be covered with acrylic sealant.
2. Chipboard. Easy to handle, but like OSB, vulnerable to moisture. Inferior to the previous material for environmental friendliness.
3. Multi-layer plywood. It is permissible to use only moisture-resistant sheets marked with FC or FSF. The composition contains formaldehyde resins - they increase the resistance of the material to an aggressive environment.

Very often, for the construction of a subfloor, ordinary flooring of boards with a cross section of 5 * 10 cm is used.This option cannot be called economical, but the strength and environmental friendliness are beyond doubt. The main requirement is preliminary wood processing.

Insulation - the basis of floor insulation

When choosing a heat-insulating material, the main focus is on the possibility of its operation in a humid environment. The most rational solutions:

1. Mineral wool... The best solution is basalt fiber mats. Pros: environmental friendliness, incombustibility, low thermal conductivity, resistance to deformation, minimal water absorption - 2%. Over time, stone wool shrinks only 5% - with proper installation, cold bridges at the joints with the logs are not formed.
2. Extruded polystyrene foam... Leader in insulating properties. Additional advantages: elasticity and resistance to deformation, lack of water absorption, biostability, ease of installation. Disadvantages: high cost and flammability.
3. Expanded clay... A budget alternative sheet insulation... It is somewhat inferior in terms of thermal insulation characteristics to mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. An important plus is fire safety.

To insulate the floor in a frame house on screw piles, foam is sometimes used. Main advantages: good thermal protection and low cost. However, upon contact with moisture and under the influence of low temperatures, the material loses its structural integrity. This solution is applicable in warm regions.

Step-by-step installation of the floor on a pile foundation

We describe the sequence of actions for arranging and insulating the floor of the frame on screw piles. They start work after careful preparation of wooden elements: treatment with an antiseptic and fire retardant composition.

Strapping device and lathing fastening

Suppose that the piles are installed, the metal heads for fixing the beams are fixed. Further progress of work:

1. Drill four holes on each "foot" of the screw supports.
2. Lay waterproofing on the heads, for example, roofing material.
3. Expand the beams along the perimeter of the structure and connect the elements together "in half a tree".
4. Attach the beams to the heads with self-tapping screws.
5. Insert the rest of the beams inside the perimeter.
6. Additionally, connect the trim parts with steel brackets.
7. Check the horizontal placement of the beams.
8. Fill the crate to the bottom of the beams - the base for attaching the underframe.

Rough base and thermal insulation

Lay OSB sheets, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood on top of the guide rails. If edged boards are used, then they must be nailed perpendicular to the logs.

After preparing the subfloor, they begin to isolate it:

1. Cover the base with a waterproofing film.
2. Place insulation in the cells between the lags. When cutting mineral wool, it is necessary to provide a margin of 0.5 cm on each side for the most snug fit and prevent the appearance of cold bridges.
3. Spread a vapor barrier membrane over the insulation with an overlap between the canvases. Glue the joints with construction tape.

Subsequent actions depend on the type of flooring.

Creating a base / plinth thermal contour

The device of the floor in the house on stilts necessarily involves driving the basement. The following methods of insulating finishing are possible:

1. Brickwork. The base is a cushion of rubble and sand. The pick-up is laid out in a half-brick, reinforcement is not necessary. For work, use ceramic or clinker bricks.
2. Siding. Thermoplates are attached to a crate made of a galvanized profile or bar, assembled on piles.
3. Decking. Girders are welded to the bored posts, which serve as the basis for attaching the profiled sheet.
4. DSP. Sheet material is mounted by analogy with a profiled sheet. The outer part can be decorated shingles, porcelain stoneware.

Regardless of the chosen method of finishing the underground part, it is necessary to provide for "vents" openings for natural ventilation.

The blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house is laid out from a concrete screed, paving slabs or paving stones. When arranging, it is necessary to maintain a slope angle of 4 ° outward. It is imperative to seal the junction of the false basement cladding with a blind area. This will prevent melt water and precipitation from entering underground.

The nuances of arranging a warm floor

Underfloor heating in a frame house on piles is performed using a water circuit or heating mats.

Arrangement scheme

1. After installing plywood or OSB on the bars and waterproofing the subfloor, sheets of expanded polystyrene should be laid in the gaps between the logs. The top surface of the slabs should be flush with the strapping.
2. Spread a vapor barrier over the insulation, leaving a reserve of film around the entire perimeter based on the height of the finished floor.
3. Lay the reinforcing mesh, fill it with a thin layer of cement-sand mortar and leave until completely solidified.
4. Spread the foil backing, shiny side up.
5. Lay out underfloor heating mats and fill with concrete screed.

In the process of setting, the solution must be periodically moistened so that cracks do not appear. After final hardening, you can lay topcoat.

Video: how to make a screed

Arrangement and insulation of the floor of the frame on a pile foundation does not present any difficulties. But with all the simplicity of implementation, the process requires the performer to be attentive and comply with all technological nuances.

Floor insulation in a frame house on piles should be carried out taking into account design features such housing. Only in this case you will not face the problem of lack of indoor comfort. When a house is installed on pile support, it usually has a basement or basement. This can be considered an advantage, which slowly turns into a disadvantage, which consists in the blowing of the lower part of the house from all sides.

Features of insulation

Such buildings are erected on swampy soils, so the space under them is characterized by a high level of humidity. So that the house is not exposed to the negative effects of natural factors, it flooring it is necessary to equip in several layers.

Insulation cake

Floor insulation in a frame house presupposes the presence of a supporting skeleton, which is combined with the subfloor. Next comes the water vapor barrier. It is required to protect the used insulation material from weathering. The next layer is a heat insulator, covered with moisture and vapor barrier layers. The final will be the final floor, which is covered with boards.

How to eliminate errors

When choosing an insulating material for such a "pie", you must be guided by the fact that it must be of high quality. It is recommended to use good steam and waterproofing products, which will reliably protect the premises from moisture. If the floor insulation in a frame house installed on piles is not performed according to all the rules, then you may face an increase in heating costs, the presence of condensation over the underground and the appearance of fungus and mold.

It is possible to insulate pile structures using several technologies; the main requirement in this matter is the need to use materials that could be operated in humid conditions. Warming the floor in a frame house with foam is one of the best and most rational approaches. But at low temperature and high humidity, this material collapses on individual elements... If you want to use this thermal insulation, then you should make sure that it is reliably protected from moisture.

Mineral wool is also common enough to solve this problem. It is inert to biological influences, has high heat-shielding characteristics and is not afraid of fire. But when water penetrates inside, the protective properties of the insulation are lost. With appropriate measures, you can use any type of mineral wool, among them:

• stone;
• glass;
• slag.

This heat insulator is realized in rolls and plates, but experts recommend using the latter option, since it has a more impressive density compared to its roll analogue.

Floor insulation with penoplex in a frame house is also carried out quite often. This material is polystyrene foam made by extrusion technology. It has low moisture absorption and high strength. These features give the material many advantages over its cheaper counterparts. If we compare it with foam, then Penoplex will be more reliable.

Alternative solutions

Warming the floor of a frame house with expanded clay is also quite common. It is easy to use this material, and there is no need to resort to outside help. Expanded clay is different fire safety and low cost. But when compared with the materials mentioned above, expanded clay is inferior in terms of heat-shielding properties.

In the role of waterproof and windproof materials for floors on a pile foundation, vapor-permeable moisture-windproof membranes should be used, which are easy to install. However, you must be prepared that the cost of such substrates is quite high. As a vapor barrier, you can use a simple plastic wrap, which is laid directly on the insulation layer.

Features of floor insulation with expanded clay

The first, when insulating the floor with expanded clay, is a layer of waterproofing. In this case, it is especially relevant, because the insulation absorbs moisture well, which can cause unpleasant consequences. To achieve uniformity, before backfilling with expanded clay, it is necessary to set guide beacons that will determine the level of the future floor.

For reliable fixation of the insulation, a screed layer is used, as well as an upper waterproofing. Before applying the final top layer of the screed, an intermediate fixation layer should be poured. For this, cement is mixed with water to obtain a homogeneous suspension. It should be poured with a layer of expanded clay. After drying such a layer, you will be able to get a monolithic expanded clay floor that will not be afraid of moisture and high loads. This design is able to withstand even a small earthquake. The final layer will be a screed, with which it will be possible to finally level the floor.

Step-by-step instructions for floor insulation

At the first stage, a rough floor is equipped, for this a wooden bar is attached to the logs, which is also called cranial. It will act as a support for the finishing boards. The used wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic; at the next stage, you can start installing the boards.

If you decide to use expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam, it is recommended to install a mesh instead of the subfloor. It is fixed to the lags so that it is able to withstand the weight of the heat insulator used. Overloading piles with excess weight is not recommended. After completing the arrangement of the subfloor, a vapor barrier is laid on its surface. All moisture from the outside will remain outside, and it will not affect the insulation layer. This area can be vaporized with plastic wrap, which is often replaced with roofing felt.

Insulation of the floor in a frame house at the next stage involves the installation of thermal insulation. Above it should be a layer of vapor barrier, which excludes the penetration of condensate and internal moisture into the "cake". When laying a vapor barrier, it is necessary to get rid of gaps that may remain between the sheets of materials. Otherwise, cold bridges may appear, which are dangerous for thermal insulation, because they will soon destroy the structure of the material.

At the next stage, you can proceed to laying the finished floor using chipboards, floorboard, plywood sheets or other products. Floor insulation in a frame house must be accompanied by the protection of the piles with a stationary base. In this case, snow will not fall under it. But if you do not intend to build a warm space or you do not have the opportunity to do this, then the supporting elements should be covered with a decorative plinth, which is quick to install and low cost.

Insulation of the floor through the base

When the floor is insulated in a frame house, you can close the basement with your own hands using one of the existing methods. What is the use of brick or rubble masonry, frame imitation of the basement, the last of which allows you to equip an analogue of a ventilated facade. If you decide to use masonry, then the pick-up must be built using halves of the brick. The first row should be placed on a pre-arranged sand cushion that is well rammed.

The fence must be waterproofed using roofing material. Correct insulation the floor of a frame house necessarily implies thermal insulation of the basement. For this, its imitation can be used. This technique allows you to complete the work as soon as possible, saving money. The frame is made by installing a lathing from wooden beams or galvanized profile. They must be installed directly on the piles. At the next stage, this structure is sheathed with roofing material, PVC sheets are installed on top, which imitate stone or brick. Polyvinyl chloride products are strengthened with nails or universal screws. The first option is suitable for wooden lathing, while the second is for a metal profile.

Double thermal insulation

Double insulation of the floor of a frame house involves the use of double floor technology. From the name it is clear that the flooring of the boards will have to be done twice, but the boards will be different. The sub-floor will be made of rough planks that fit well together. A layer of roofing material is laid on top, which will protect the wooden floor.

The next layer will be sand, the height of which should be a limit of 3 to 5 cm. Next, the sand is covered with plastic wrap, reinforced with nails or a construction stapler. The next layer will be thermal insulation, which is pre-cut into pieces. Lay on top chipboard plateson which the finishing floor will be laid.

Features of cross insulation

Cross-floor insulation in a frame house is also used quite often. When the basement floor is equipped with beams with the following dimensions: 200 x 500 mm, insulation thickness should be 200 mm. The upper layer of thermal insulation should be located perpendicular to the lower layers, which gives the name of the technology.

Conclusion

Insulation of the floor in a house with a foundation on piles can be carried out thoroughly, but if you want to experiment, then thermal insulation can be carried out even with the help of carpet. This method is great for those owners who have not yet decided to open the floor.

To do this, you should use a material that is similar in characteristics to ordinary carpets. The carpet should be laid over the entire floor area of \u200b\u200bthe room, affecting the perimeter. This approach will close the cracks in the concrete and wooden floorthrough which cold air enters from the basement.

Why don't I use a wind and moisture protection film in the lower floor of a frame house on piles or on tape? This question comes up quite often. Let's talk about the bottom floor pie in general and VVZ film / membrane in particular.

The lower floor of a frame house in Nazia, there is no film below

First of all, let's touch on the issue of constructiveness. The above photo shows a triple strapping on which the floor joists rest. This is one of the options for implementing the binding of screw piles, which has both its pros and cons. We have already considered this issue in detail in the article "dispute about the bottom overlap", although that article is mostly devoted to heat loss. However, two design options are considered there (the above and the one that I like best), so I see no reason to repeat myself.

Protecting the frame house from mice

So, having chosen the strapping option, we come to the choice of the "pie" of the overlap, that is, what and in what order should be laid there. And we always start with protection from small rodents, which can settle in the insulation, if you do not take measures.

The main measure in our case is the use of a fine metal mesh over the entire floor area:

Rodent protection net, bottom overlap of frame on tape

In this photo you can see the bottom floor of the frame in Lomonosov, it was built on a ready-made old tape. But this does not change the essence of the matter, if there were piles, and not a tape, we would first make a strapping and stretch the mesh in the same way. Like this:

In the photographs above, the lower overlap of the frame at the SVF in Kiskelovo, the mesh is sandwiched between the lower harness and the board lying flat on the heads. In the case of a variant with a triple bottom strapping and overlap lags on top of it, the mesh is mounted on top of the strapping. The bottom line is that the mesh is immediately under the insulation, so as not only to protect it from rodents, but also to support it - not to let it sag or fall out.

This is how the finished harness and the stretched mesh look from above:

Aerial photography of the construction site in Kiskelovo, lower floor and rodent net

Usually we use a woven galvanized metal mesh 0.7mm with a mesh of 5 * 5mm, rolls of 1 * 30m, but this size is not important, the main thing is a small mesh so that no mouse can get through.

Thermal insulation of floors with stone wool

Insulation of the ceiling with stone wool, view from the side of the future terrace

In the process of insulation itself, there is nothing unusual, plates of insulation are placed between the lags, and they are supported from below metal grid... You can also additionally use punched tape, there is practically no load there, it simply does not allow the insulation to sag:

Basalt wool is supported by met. mesh, you can add punched tape

And now we come to the most interesting ...

Why is there no wind and moisture protection in the lower floor

Yes, yes, the VVZ film / membrane is not visible in the photographs. It is not visible because it is not there. But no, because it is not needed.

Most often they write to me "but what about the moisture from the soil?", "After all, the insulation will get wet!" etc. But the trick is that stone wool can only get wet if it gets wet in the form of drops or jets, which certainly won't happen underground. And it simply does not pick up moisture from the air.

So, only the issue of air permeability remains relevant, i.e. wind protection. Therefore, as the first layer, I usually use a denser stone woole.g. Paroc WAS 35.

Facade insulation Paroc WAS 35

The manufacturer confirms that there is no need to use a windscreen (note that moisture protection is not even mentioned) in the case of using these boards with limited air permeability:

The letter is about ventilation facades, but this does not change the essence of the matter at all, because these windproof plates work in the same way, both in the wall and in the ceiling.

Of course, this is not the only way to make the "lower part of the lower floor", as an option, it is also possible to use Isoplaat MDVP windproof plates, although they are already more difficult to install. But I would not use wind-moisture-proof films or membranes. The fact is that such membranes are not able to pass water in the liquid phase, which is extremely undesirable for overlap, because water, with a high degree of probability, can get there sooner or later. For example, emergency leaks of communications, from them, alas, no one is immune.

The most common way to hem the floor from below: counting money

Probably the most common option for filing the bottom floor, which I have come across at other people's construction sites, is an inch or OSB + VVZ film. The use of such materials is argued in different ways, starting with the fact that "we have always done this", ending with the fact that it is cheaper than "newfangled windproof plates or insulation".

It is important to understand that the bottom of your house should be material

• with good vapor permeability;
• with sufficient wind protection;
• capable of passing liquid in the event of a leak.

Neither OSB nor films / membranes meet these criteria in any way, so I would refrain from using them.

As for the cost, the use of windproof insulation turns out to be cheaper than film + boards. Although the windproof insulation itself is three times more expensive than usual! This difference in prices gives rise to a common misconception that the whole pie is also three times more expensive, but this is not so. Firstly, you need to use only 50mm of such insulation (first layer), and secondly, let's calculate.

Once they have already argued about this, I will give short calculations that were relevant at the time of the dispute:

Paroc Extra usual ~ 1600 rubles for 1m3, in our case it turns out 80 rubles for 1m2 of 50mm slab.

Paroc WAS 35 costs much more ~ \u200b\u200b4500 rubles per 1m3, i.e. in our case, 225 rubles per 1 m2 of 50mm slab.

The difference in the cost of two heaters 145 rubles from 1m2. Now let's count the board and the film:

Inch dry ~ 8000 rubles per 1m3, i.e. 200 rubles per 1m2, Izospan A film - 25 rubles per 1m2.

Those. we see that in my version you will have to pay 150 rubles for 1 m2 of insulation, but you will not have to pay 225+ rubles for a m2 of filing with a board and film, so the myth “this is unjustifiably more expensive” was not confirmed, the opposite happened.

There remains only one controversial point: these calculations do not take into account the metal mesh, which is often not installed when filing with an inch. But the net protects the house from rodents and, in an amicable way, is needed in any implementation.

What's on top?

We figured out the design, insulation and filing (or rather, its absence). It remains to discuss what the overlap is on top. So, after completing the installation of the insulation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier, for which we use a polyethylene film:

Bottom ceiling and vapor barrier

As part of this note, I would not like to go into details, I can only say that the 150 micron film is registered in SP 31-105. Polyethylene is the basis of many "branded" PI films, therefore we use it for vapor barrier walls and floors. The film is laid with an overlap, the joints are glued. And plywood is laid on top, this is how it happens:

By the way, the video shows the beginning of construction of a house in Matox. The video is of mediocre quality, but there was nothing better and fresher. It will be necessary to make a new video on this topic.

Moisture resistant plywood for subfloors

Having made the subfloor from moisture-resistant plywood, you can start assembling the walls - the floor of the first floor is ready!

comments powered by HyperComments

I am designing a one-story frame house on screw piles with an area of \u200b\u200b100 square meters. Estimated floor cake: fine mesh from mice, PPS 25-200 mm, edged board 25 mm, vapor barrier layer, PPS 25-50 mm, concrete screed 50 mm with mesh, warm floor.

The fact is that the subfloor board will be purchased in winter and will lie under a canopy until installation in the summer (already when the house is under the roof). Dry, I think, up to 20%. I plan to pour concrete two months after the floor.

Tell me if there are any pitfalls here, in particular:

1. Will the PE shrinkage affect the screed?
2. Will the teaching staff help to minimize the changes in the state of emergency.
3. Will this floor option rot (on the heat calculation it seems to be the norm).
4. Whether the sound insulation will suffer greatly from the use of PPP.

The "pie" you described on the ground floor on the ground floor, which you plan to arrange in own home, at least, is irrational. As a maximum, in a year the other floor will have to be disassembled and redone. We strongly advise you to abandon this design, and here's why:

You yourself have a doubt whether they will rot wooden boardslocated between layers of airtight insulation. We confirm your guess: they will definitely rot. Moreover, regardless of how well you dry them and what you saturate them with. Without ventilation, the wood will be attacked by fungus. Construction Materialsbiodegradable must not be placed in structures where moisture removal is not ensured. And one more thing: it is completely incomprehensible why you need this layer of 25 mm boards at all. Indeed, without a frame or a lag (there is no mention of their presence in your letter), the boards of the supporting function will not perform and are not a black floor. Moreover, if they are not attached to the base (we repeat, you do not have a frame), the wood will "twist" over time. You will not be able to pour the screed two months after laying the lower layers of the floor according to your scheme, the boards and insulation will already be deformed, the structure will have to be disassembled. Even if you manage to initially pick up even boards and pour the screed immediately, until they are warped, it is not a fact that reinforced concrete (in fact, a cement-sand mortar) will withstand deformations and will not crack ever.

The mistake is that for some reason you are trying to invent a hybrid structure: combine wooden load-bearing elements (in fact, the flooring without a frame will not hold the load) and monolithic concrete. Don't come up with know-how, you don't need to. Benefit from expertly developed and proven technologies.

"Correct" designs, reliable and durable

There are two options, wireframe and monolithic:

Let's take a look at the layers sequentially, starting at the bottom and moving up:

• Base - it should be as flat and strong as possible. We don't know what kind of soil you have, so see for yourself what to add: crushed stone, ASG, sand and in what layer. In any case, the base must be well compacted. Perhaps it makes sense to make a foundation.

  

  As a base, you can use compacted soil with seeded sand, which is easy to trim in place.

• Insulation from moisture in the base is required. On a footing or compacted soil, you can lay a roll bituminous waterproofingby gluing the panels together and be sure to put them on the wall. Or it is good to spill it with molten bitumen, mastic. You can save money by using an inexpensive vapor barrier film instead of waterproofing. But it should not be laid on the ground (it can break), but between the layers of insulation.
• Insulation. What the layer should be, we cannot say without knowing climatic conditions your region. In any case, the more, the better, especially considering that it is necessary to prevent the heat energy of the heated floors from leaking down into the ground. Any sufficiently tough, non-hygroscopic and non-rotting effective insulation will do: foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), foam. Probably, by PPS (this is a common abbreviation for expanded polystyrene), you meant inexpensive PSB-S-25 foam. But not the fact that it will suit you. There are no unequivocal rules on what the brand of foam should be for the installation of monolithic floors. Much depends on the load: for example, in the place where the piano or a large aquarium will stand, it is better to put not foam plastic, but strong foam glass. For heavy furniture - PSB-S-50 of maximum density or EPS. In monolithic floors, we would not recommend using expanded polystyrene with a density below 25 kg / m3, with a lower resistance to compression, the density may not be sufficient, there is a possibility of floor deformation.
  

  Note! The number 25 in the designation of the PSB-S-25 brand denotes not the real, but the limiting (highest) density. In fact, in accordance with GOST 15588-86, a manufacturer can sell products with a density of 15.1 to 25 kg / m3 under this brand.

  Naturally, many are trying to save on raw materials. We recommend that you buy PSB-S-35 expanded polystyrene for a monolithic floor, the density of which should be 25.1-35 kg / m3, or try to find an "honest" PSB-S-25, the density of which would be closer to the maximum. You can determine it by weighing required amount material.

  

  The insulation should be laid in such a way that the joints of the foam sheets overlap, the slots can be filled with construction foam.

  

  Insulation sheets are laid with overlapping joints

• Reflective foil. The mirror surface of the foil reflects heat radiation and saves you up to 2.5% of thermal energy, reducing fuel costs. If you decide to install not just foil, but a layer of foamed polyethylene foam (additional thermal insulation), the reflective surface should be directed upward into the room.
• Reinforced concrete screed, thickness 50-60 mm. Concrete, even on a fine aggregate, should be laid between pipes and mesh, and it will be difficult to grind, most likely, you will prefer to use a cement-sand mortar. Grade - not less than 150, better than 200. We recommend adding a plasticizer to it during the preparation of the solution, the screed will turn out denser and it will be easier to smooth it. If you order a ready-made solution, you can ask to add a plasticizer on the mixing unit (delivery by a dump truck) or pour it into the mixer container (delivery by a concrete mixer). During the manufacture of the screed, the underfloor heating pipes must be filled with water or compressed air under operating pressure. Floor heating can be turned on no earlier than a month after the screed is made, the temperature is raised smoothly within three days.
  

  Do not forget that the floor screed, if necessary, is separated by expansion joints: maximum size the whole area should not exceed 40 m2, and the length on either side is 8 m.

  

  Expansion joints must not cross the contours of the underfloor heating; only supply lines can pass through them in the insulating casing

  Also, along the perimeter of the premises along the walls, a damper (coastal) tape must be laid - a strip of elastic material (we recommend using foamed polystyrene foam) with a thickness of at least 1 cm.

  

• Optimal from a heat engineering point of view, options for covering a heated floor - facing with ceramic, porcelain stoneware tiles, natural stone... These materials transfer heat in the best way and do not deform. Tile adhesive should be specially designed for underfloor heating and have increased elasticity. We do not recommend using parquet and solid wood boards, they will dry out. Acceptable options: laminate, linoleum, not very thick carpet.

Another very important question that you will certainly face is the thermal insulation of the basement. Since you have a frame house, on screw piles, you will have to figure out how to make a strong and aesthetic pick-up. There are many options, it can be a frame (wooden or steel), sewn up with siding or asbestos-cement slabs.

The easiest way is to arrange a frame around the house, sheathe it from the outside and insulate it well from the inside.

Vinyl plinth siding is not cheap, but beautiful and requires no finishing or maintenance. Both the siding and the frame cannot be lowered to the ground level, it can rise in cold weather. The gap can be closed with a steel apron

Asbestos-cement sheets are much cheaper

You can lay the basement with small-sized concrete blocks, rubble or brickwork.

Under the stone foundation you will have to make concrete base

The main thing is to insulate the outer perimeter well and prevent the soil from freezing under the house. The best option is to insulate not only the basement, but also the blind area, as they do everywhere in the cold Scandinavian countries.

The diagram shows how the joint warming of the basement and the blind area changes the nature of soil freezing. The ground under the building (if it is heated) never freezes, which eliminates frost-heaving deformations and helps to reduce operating costs. Use EPS as insulation

And finally. Monolithic floors can be made not only after installing the box at home, but also before, immediately after installing the screw supports and tying them into a common grillage with horizontal elements. With the right approach, it's faster and cheaper.

In countries with a developed construction industry, monolithic floors on the ground are usually arranged before the walls are installed, it is easier. In the photo there is a strip foundation, but the technology is also suitable for a pile foundation. Before starting work, you need to have a detailed project for the placement of communications

About soundproofing

If the floor is monolithic, the upper concrete layer will absorb all noise and vibration. In the case when the floor is frame and covered with a laminate, you will hear a "clatter" when walking in shoes with a solid sole. Perhaps mice living underground will be a little noisy.