Rhododendron planting and care. Rhododendron - planting and care, pruning rules. Growing in various climatic conditions. Soil requirements. Deciduous varieties are suitable

The rhododendron plant is represented by a wide variety of species - it can be a shrub, a semi-shrub and even a tree. Their sizes can be very different: from small, creeping shrubs to tree-like varieties growing up to 30 meters in height. There are representatives with leaves falling for the winter and evergreen specimens. This genus also includes indoor azalea. The distribution area is also very extensive: from Asia to North America.

This plant belongs to the Heather family. The flowers that adorn the rhododendron shrub are tiny or very large, up to 20 cm in diameter. The color pleases with a variety of shades. The petals most often fold into a pipe, forming funnel-shaped flowers, collected in lush inflorescences. In beauty they are not inferior to the queen of flowers - the rose. The leaves also vary greatly in shape and arrangement on the stem.

Types and varieties of culture

Rose tree rhododendron

The pink rhododendron has an incredible beauty: planting and caring for it does not cause any particular problems. This species has become one of the favorite among gardeners. It is often called a rose tree, since it can reach two-, three-meter growth and is generously decorated with bright, pink-purple flowers, forming beautiful inflorescences of 5-9 pieces, which exude wonderful aroma... It grows slowly, in a year the shoots grow only 5-8 cm. For the winter it sheds foliage, hibernates well, tolerates frosts down to -30 ° C.

Varieties of pink rhododendron

Amoena's beautiful pink rhododendron, planting and caring for which will allow you to get a whole cloud of pink flowers, characterized by the fact that it belongs to the evergreen varieties. An equally remarkable variety from this category is the Pierce American Beauty rhododendron: planting and caring for which does not differ from the standard approaches to keeping other members of the genus.

This shrub grows up to 1.8 m in height, and grows in breadth up to 3 meters. During flowering, it is all covered with crimson-pink balls of inflorescences, in which you can count up to 18 beautiful, bell-shaped flowers. The diameter of each of them is about 7 cm, in shape they resemble a wide funnel. The upper petals are decorated with dark brown specks. The bush blooms for a long time and profusely, for 20 days delighting the soul with its splendor.

Rules for planting rhododendron at their summer cottage

In order for the care of rhododendron to give good results, it is necessary to approach with all responsibility the choice of a site for its placement.

Correctly carried out planting of a rhododendron and caring for it in the future, observing simple rules, will ensure the lush flowering of the shrub. Russian climatic conditions are not suitable for all plant species. Therefore, you should choose cold-hardy varieties suitable for temperate latitudes. There are a great many of them, and some of them were mentioned above.

Selection of land and neighbors

It all starts with the selection of a site in the garden, where shrubs will grow for many years. There are several points to consider here. Firstly, the roots of the plant spread almost at the very surface of the earth. Therefore, the garden rhododendron is picky about the neighbors: planting and caring for it include an obligatory item - a careful selection of the environment. It depends on this whether the shrub will develop normally, whether it will not fade, as well as the quality of its flowering.

Which neighbors are better?

It is categorically contraindicated to plant a rhododendron next to trees with superficial roots - spruce, linden. It is not recommended to place shrubs near birch, maple, aspen, chestnut. They will not leave a chance for the rhododendron to receive water and nutrients in full. It is best to plant it next to a pine or oak tree, since their rhizomes go deep underground. You can plant seedlings nearby fruit trees, but in such a way that they are not in constant shadow from the crown.

Choosing a suitable site

Regarding the choice of the site, it must be reliably protected from the wind and the scorching sun. It is advisable to protect the branches of the plant from the aggressive effects of sunlight in the summer at midday and afternoon hours. You can plant the plant next to a fence or wall of a house that faces north or northeast. No matter how strange it may seem, but these are the cardinal points - the best choice for rhododendron.

Why north or northeast?

The fact is that the plant has a property that everyone who is going to plant it needs to know about, so as not to ask the question later: why the rhododendron does not bloom, and its leaves burn? The bush forms buds in late summer and during autumn. From them the most beautiful flowers appear in spring. During the last days of winter - the first days of spring, the buds under the influence of the bright sun begin to actively lose moisture. If February and March are sunny, they may become completely dehydrated.

Before the roots wake up (and this will not happen until April), the embryos of future buds may completely lose the ability to bloom. For the same reason, foliage burns. Therefore, it is very important to protect the shrubs from early, active exposure to the rays of the sun in the spring. Otherwise, it will be possible not to wait for flowering from the bush, or it will dissolve its flowers - bells only from the north side.

Planting rules

It is best to plant rhododendrons in the spring. The root system of the bush does not differ in large dimensions, therefore, it will be necessary to prepare a hole for it, 0.5 m deep, 0.7-0.8 m in diameter. If you plan to plant several bushes, then, depending on the variety, it is necessary to leave a distance of 0.8-2 m so that the plants do not overlap each other with a crown in the future.

Plants of this genus love watering, but do not live in permanently waterlogged soil. This must be taken into account and drainage must be laid out on the bottom of the dug hole. Its layer should be about 18 cm. After that, the soil is laid, consisting of peat, deciduous forest land and coniferous litter. All components are taken in a 2: 3: 1 ratio and mixed thoroughly. A bush is planted in the prepared hole. Its neck should not be buried in the ground; it should rise several centimeters above the ground level. The soil surrounding the planted bush needs to be pressed down a little and watered thoroughly.

Features of outdoor care

It does not require a lot of work and effort from the rhododendron gardener: planting and care in the open field involves a classic set of techniques.

The most important of them is top dressing, since the root system is very close to the soil surface and cannot get nutrients from the deep bowels of the earth. Ashes must be immediately excluded from the list of fertilizers suitable for the plant. It lowers the acidity of the soil, which can cause the foliage on the bushes to turn yellow. What are the best fertilizers for rhododendrons?

Regular plant feeding

Speaking about how to feed the rhododendron, you should first of all pay attention to the incompletely rotted coniferous soil, similar to peat with the remnants of needles. It will not only even out the acidity of the soil, provide nutrients to the plant, but also act as a mulching agent. You can also use ordinary peat, which, like coniferous humus, must be laid out around the bush, trying not to sprinkle the outlet from which the branches grow. From industrial preparations to feed the vitality of the plant, use granular top dressing "Kemira-universal" or any liquid mineral fertilizers suitable for this species.

Watering and irrigation rules for crops

The plant loves watering, it is especially important to ensure that the soil around the bush does not dry out in the first year of life. Regular tap water is not suitable for rhododendron. Its composition is too heavy for him. Better to use rain or river wateras it is softer. From time to time, the watering liquid is acidified with the help of drugs that can be purchased in specialized stores. However, if a top dressing made specifically for rhododendrons is used, as well as constant mulching with coniferous humus, it is not necessary to acidify the soil.

Spraying and loosening shrubs

Rhododendrons prefer humid air. It has been noticed that more lush inflorescences open where there are water bodies nearby. If there are no such "natural moisturizers", then once every 7 days it is necessary to arrange the plant for spraying. Water requirements remain the same as for irrigation. It is better to spray plants in the morning or evening hours, when there is no scorching sun. The ground near the bush does not loosen, because it is possible to damage the nearby, superficial roots. It is better to gently remove the weeds by hand so as not to hurt the root system of the bush.

Reproduction of the rhododendron plant

There are several ways to reproduce rhododendron. Before propagating a rhododendron, it is necessary to determine the purpose of breeding. If the grower plans to get a new plant that completely coincides with the original variety, then the bush should be propagated vegetatively, using layers or cuttings. When breeding wild varieties of shrubs, seeds from the mother plant can be used.

Breeding using seeds

In the spring, seeds are planted in separate containers or containers with soil. The soil is prepared from two components - peat and sand. They are taken in equal proportions. It is not necessary to deepen the seeds, they are simply scattered over the surface of the substrate and crushed with a small amount of river sand. Then the earth is watered in boxes. Tap water should be slightly acidified with oxalic acid. It is bred in a minimum amount - only 3-4 grams per ten-liter bucket. The boxes are wrapped in plastic and placed in heat.

Seedling care in spring and summer

After 20 days - 1 month, the first seedlings will appear. The film is removed, and the boxes are placed in a cool room (t- + 8 ° C - + 12 ° C). Watering is done in pallets. When the soil mixture is completely saturated, the water is drained from the pallets. In the summer, containers with young seedlings are taken out into the fresh air, keeping them out of direct sunlight. For the first time, seedlings dive in June. At the same time, they are placed, stepping back 1.5 cm from the previous sprout.

Seedling care in winter

On winter period they are brought into the house and winter is arranged for them at t- + 18 ° С. At this time, they need additional lighting with fluorescent lamps. Daylight hours for normal growth of seedlings lasts at least 16 hours a day. At the end of winter, the plants dive a second time. Now the distance between the seedlings should expand to 3-4 cm. After three years, the shoots move to a permanent place of growth.

Cutting rhododendron at home

When cuttings flowering will come the next year. Cuttings are cut from half-woody stems. Their length is 5-8 cm, the lower edge is cut obliquely. The foliage located below is cut off, and 2-3 leaves on top are not removed. The seedlings are placed in containers with a mixture of sand and peat (equal proportions), or three parts of sawdust and 1 part of river sand. Moreover, they are not buried directly, but at an inclination, the angle of which should be within 30 ° C. The ground around them is tamped a little and a polyethylene shelter is built.

The temperature during rooting should be around + 24 ° C. Do not forget about supplementary lighting and maintaining good air humidity. Rooted cuttings are transplanted into boxes with a soil mixture of peat and coniferous litter (2: 1) and kept at a temperature of + 8 ° C - + 12 ° C until spring. 14 days after transplanting into boxes, they are fertilized with urea (solution concentration -2%). With the onset of stable spring heat, the finished seedlings are planted in the ground.

Indoor rhododendron: why is azalea whimsical?

The azalea flower is sometimes called the indoor rhododendron: planting and caring for it at home often fails, since all the conditions necessary for it are not met. In most cases, it grows in mountainous areas, which determines its love of moist and cool air and acidic soil. In apartment conditions, it is difficult to find a room with t + 10 ° С -15 ° С, where azaleas will be comfortable. In addition to the fact that dry, warm air is detrimental to the flower in itself, it also causes some diseases of the home rhododendron, such as, for example, spider mites. Therefore, when choosing this whimsical flower, you must immediately make sure that the plant lives "with comfort", otherwise all efforts will be reduced to zero.

The rhododendron plant is a native of the Heathers. In translation, the name rhododendron means rose tree. This is a fairly well-known plant for growing at home, and the common people call it indoor rhododendron.

General information

The plant is common in the Northern Hemisphere. Less common in Japan, Asia, North America. In the Ukrainian expanses, this plant grows in the subalpine zone, and only the Carpathian rhododendron. But only there they call him in their own way "Chervona Ruta". This species is listed in the Red Book.

The rhododendron flower grows in nature and in groups and single individuals. Occurs on the slopes of the mountains in marshy areas and in the tundra.

Rhododendron is an almost evergreen shrub plant or tree. The height of miniature species ranges from 10 cm to one meter, and there are exceptions, the height of which is about 30 meters.

The leaves of the plant are of various shapes and sizes, too. The foliage is arranged in a spiral manner. Leaf shape is oblong oval with slight pubescence. Inflorescences are presented in racemes or scutes, sometimes singly. The corolla is sunny or pinkish.

The fruits are formed in the form of capsules with many seeds. There are about 1300 plant species in their natural environment.

Varieties and types

It is a deciduous species, reaching a height of up to 2 meters. The shoots of the plant are directed upwards. The foliage is elliptical about 4 cm long and up to 1.5 cm wide. The inflorescences are solitary, pale violet. Flowering begins in mid-summer, after the leaves have fully emerged.

An accelerated bush. The height of this species is about 3 meters. The foliage is oblong, about 12 cm long. Inflorescences are represented by up to 10 flowers in clusters and have a pleasant aroma. Flowering occurs at the end of spring.

It is an evergreen bush with many leaves reaching a height of 4 meters, but in to a greater extent the width of the bush exceeds the height. The shape of the leaf is in the form of an ellipse, about 15 cm long. The clusters contain up to 20 flowers. The corolla of the flower is purple. Flowering begins in late spring.

An accelerated view of about two meters in height. The leaves are shaped like maple leaves and are found at the ends of the stems. Inflorescences are pale pink interspersed, flower diameter is about 10 cm.

It is a bush, about 2 meters high. The shape of the bush is spreading. The foliage is elongated, about 10 cm in length, slightly pubescent. In autumn it has a yellowish-red tint. Inflorescences are scarlet, sunny shade, about 8 cm in diameter with a pleasant aroma. Flowering begins in the last month of spring. Duration of flowering is more than a month.

Quite common. Due to the abundance of flowers, leaves are almost completely invisible. Height is about one meter. Bell-shaped inflorescences. The shade of the flower is scarlet, yellow or pink.

Is not large sizes bush up to half a meter in height. In adults of the plant, the shade of the bark is dark gray. The leaves of the species are elongated with a rounded end. Juveniles have an individually pleasant, but more pungent aroma.

The inflorescences of the species have a light pink tint, without aroma. There are about 15 flowers in clusters. Flowering lasts the entire summer period.

At a height of about 1 meter 20 centimeters. With a brownish bark. Shoots are more accelerated.

The foliage is oblong in the shape of an oval. On the inside, the leaf is covered with hairs. Flowers are knocked down in shields of about 8 pieces. The diameter of the inflorescence is about 3 cm. The shade of the petals is light or pale pink. It blooms in spring and is a good honey plant. The hybrid species is quite demanding in care and planting.

Not a large shrub. Spreading shoots. The foliage is alternate, about 8 cm long, the surface of the leaf is olive shade, and on the inside is less clear shade. Inflorescences on high legs, about 5 flowers per one. After flowering, the fruit is a box with small seeds. The scent of the plant is similar to that of fresh strawberries.

Not a voluminous tree in the shape of a ball. The foliage is narrowed, dense, glossy outside. The shade of the leaves is dark olive on the outside, and on the inside it has a chocolate shade with small villi.

The inflorescences are about 7 cm in diameter.Starting flowering, the petals have a pale pink hue, and by the end they acquire a rich white color... Flowering begins towards the end of spring.

Has a spherical bush. Hybrid plant from rhododendron katevsbinsky. The species was bred in 1851. Plant height is about 3 meters. Medium-sized elliptical foliage. Inflorescences with a pink tint and crimson spots. Flowering begins in late spring and lasts about a month.

Rhododendron planting and care

The landing site should be selected a little shaded. The northern part is desirable. It is preferable to plant rhododendron in early spring, in the first months of spring.

A rhododendron transplant is performed in the fall before the onset of frost. Also, the transplant can be done at any necessary period, only in advance of flowering for a month, or after the plant has faded in a few weeks.

Soil for rhododendrons

The soil for planting should be light, loose with a good drainage layer. It is important that the soil is acidic and with sufficient fertilization. High-moor peat and loamy soil in a ratio of 8: 3 are suitable.

It is necessary to avoid stagnant moisture, otherwise the plant will die. It is necessary to plant a plant in a prepared hole about half a meter in diameter and the same depth.

To acidify the soil for rhododendrons. It is necessary to add recycled sawdust from coniferous trees or rotted coniferous needles to the soil.

At home, you can check if your soil needs acidification. To do this, you need to pour boiling water over currant or cherry leaves, and when the water cools down, throw some earth. If the water changes color to blue, then the soil needs acidification, if red, then it is normal. And if it changed its color to green, then the soil is neutral.

Caring for the plant does not require special skills, it is just necessary to loosen the soil in time and remove weeds.

Watering rhododendrons

It is preferable to provide the plant with moderate moisture. Water must be settled or, if possible, rainwater. The soil should be moist up to 30 cm deep. It is possible to determine whether it is necessary to irrigate by the appearance of the foliage, if they become faded and dull, then moisture is necessary.

Rhododendron loves enough humidified air about 65%, therefore it requires frequent spraying of the leaves.

Fertilizer for rhododendrons

The plant should be fertilized from early spring until the end of flowering in mid-summer. Feeding is carried out with cow liquid manure together with water in a ratio of 1:15. The plant must be watered before fertilizing.

The most practical fertilization option is mineral and organic complex fertilizers during early spring. During flowering with cow dung.

Autumn fertilization for rhododendrons is necessary after flowering. For this, phosphorus and potash fertilizers are suitable.

Pruning rhododendrons

Pruning the plant is required as needed to create the desired shape. Pruning is done in early spring, before the start of the growing season. Dry shoots are cut off and old branches are rejuvenated, the thickness of which is about 4 cm.

Plants that overwintered poorly or are outdated must be completely rejuvenated by cutting off all shoots at a height of about 30 cm from the ground.

Shelter of rhododendrons for the winter

Cover the plant if you have hot and frosty winters. For this, the bush is covered with dry leaves and sawdust. And the shoots themselves are covered with spruce branches and insulated with burlap.

The insulation must be removed after the snow melts in early spring.

Propagation of rhododendrons by cuttings

For this, cuttings are cut from adult large plants about 8 cm long. They are placed in a growth stimulator for half a day. And then they are planted in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1, then covered with cellophane, making a greenhouse.

Opening periodically for watering and airing. Rooting takes place up to 4.5 months. After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted into a mixture of peat and needles.

Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering

To do this, in the spring, a young shoot is buried in a small recess about 16 cm deep and sprinkled with soil, during summer period watered, and when rooting occurs, transplanted separately.

Rhododendron seed reproduction

Seeds must be sown in a container with prepared peat, to a depth of about a centimeter. The container is covered with glass and the soil is periodically ventilated and moistened. The temperature for germinating seeds is about 15 degrees.

After the appearance of several pairs of leaves, the seedlings are seated in separate containers, and in open ground in the second year after sowing.

Diseases and pests

• Before the onset of cold weather the leaves of the plant begin to turn red and crumble ... In other words, the plant is preparing for wintering.
• Rhododendron does not bloom the reasons may be different, the soil may not match, little light, a lot of nitrogen fertilization, leads to the growth of branches and leaves, and flowering does not begin.
• Leaves of rhododendrons turn yellow from excessive moisture in the root system, it is necessary to monitor moderate moisture.
• Rhododendron does not grow due to lack of fertilizer, the soil is not acidic or the sun shines too much, and the plant suffers from the heat.
• Rhododendron sheds leaves this may be due to dry soil, inappropriate soil for planting, or your plant is being attacked by pests.
• The rhododendron withers and the leaves turn brown the reasons are most likely in dry air and insufficient spraying. There may also be excessive exposure to direct sunlight.
• Rhododendron has pale green leaves in low light, the leaves become pale and faded. The second reason is the lack of watering of the plant.
• The buds of the rhododendron did not open the reason is the increased air temperature, the optimal temperature for a plant indoors is about 16, and outside within 22 degrees.
• Rhododendron leaves turn black the cause was chlorosis, it manifests itself with a lack of soil acidity.
• When pests appear on the plant , it is necessary to treat the rhododendron bush with an appropriate insecticide.

• Kind: heather
• Flowering period: april May June
• Height: 0.3-1.5m
• Colour: white, pink, purple, red, yellow, purple
• Perennial
• Winters
• Shady
• Moisture-loving

Hard to imagine suburban area without the usual permanent residents - peonies, roses, poppies, dahlias, throughout the summer decorating flower beds and flower beds with their lush hats. However, sometimes in the dachas of the middle lane and southern regions you can find an unusual beautiful shrub resembling a rose. This is a rhododendron, a rather capricious heat-loving plant. It is not easy to find an approach to it, but the cultivation and care of rhododendrons over time for some lovers of rare plants develops into a hobby - these magnificent flowers are so beautiful and exquisite.

Like most of the lushly flowering crops, rhododendron is rarely found in the Russian wild, but grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.

Many species take root and feel great only in southern latitudes, so they can be safely grown in the Crimea, Krasnodar Territory or Stavropol Territory. However, some varieties, for example, Daursky or Canadian, develop well in temperate climates, so if you live in the Moscow region, in the Urals or even in the Siberian outback, rhododendron can also decorate your summer cottage with its magnificent flowering.

Literally translated from Latin, "rhododendron" means "rosewood" - and indeed, its appearance the plant is very similar to a rose, although it belongs not to rosaceous, but to heather

You are certainly familiar with one of the types of rhododendron - this is the well-known home azalea, which often adorns the windowsills of city apartments. It is distinguished by lush flowering and a variety of shades.

It is impossible to imagine how the relatives of this small plant can reach 25-30 meters in height, although in fact in the Himalayas, Japan, North America, some species grow to such gigantic sizes.

There are also low rhododendrons, which are separate bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of the mountains and in the coastal sea zones.

Mountain varieties differ small size and are ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only up to 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink tint

Among annuals and perennials (and there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a certain region.

If you need a special shade - reddish, purple, white or yellow - this will not be a problem either, since the color palette of crops is almost limitless. The flowering culture begins in early spring and continues throughout the warm period.

Thanks to the luxurious color palette garden azalea can be combined with various types of flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, multi-tiered flower beds

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

Following general recommendations, planting can be done both in autumn and in spring, that is, in a convenient growing season for you, excluding flowering time and a short period after flowering - about 10 days. However, experienced gardeners still insist on a spring planting, which continues, depending on the region, from April to May 10-15.

Varieties planted earlier than this period are already covered with a thick color by the May holidays - they look very impressive against the background of barely hatched foliage and fresh grassy greens.

One of the early flowering rhododendrons is P.J. Mezitt is a lush plant with pink and lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering falls on the last decade of April - early May.

It is important to choose the right landing site, since in the bright sun the plant will feel uncomfortable, and in a completely darkened place it will not give a lush flowering.

It is best to break a flower bed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when the sun's rays reach maximum strength, the plant is completely closed from them.

Not only the walls of a building, but also a fence or tall trees can serve as a shadow barrier for a flower garden. Rhododendron gets along well with trees, the roots of which go deep into the soil and do not interfere with the development of the plant - oaks, larch trees, spruces, as well as fruit trees - pears or apple trees

Flowers absolutely cannot stand alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime admixtures. One of the best growing materials is a mixture of peat and clay.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order:

• dig holes, shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
• the lower part is drained with a sandy-pebble layer (10-15 cm);
• they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), while peat should be about 2 times more;
• lightly tamp the soil inside the pit and make a hole in it the size of an earthen lump of the seedling;
• the roots of the seedling are lowered into the hole and covered with soil mixture to the very root collar, which, as a result, should be on the same level with the soil surface;
• water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
• produce mulching (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted needles, leaves and crushed oak bark are suitable.

In order for the plant to better take root in a new place, soak the roots thoroughly with water before planting - lower the seedlings in a container with water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.

Approximate planting scheme for rhododendron: 1 - garden soil; 2 - drainage; 3 - soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 - a layer of pine needles

There is one more trick to promote better root development. Have flowering plant cut the most lush buds - this way the seedling will spend more energy on rooting. Planting and further caring for rhododendrons are important steps, following which you will achieve amazing results.

It is better to start decorating a planted bush in a couple of weeks - after it is completely rooted. You can give the plant a certain shape, and decorate the base depending on the style landscape design your site

The nuances of flower care

Norms proper care for flowering shrubs do not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to observe the watering regime, weed and prune on time, feed the plant with suitable minerals and make sure that pests do not start.

There are also subtleties, for example, a careful approach when loosening. The roots of the plant are very close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil very carefully, and you should not dig it up at all. When removing weeds, in no case use a hoe or a garden knife, you can only act manually.

Watering mode and features

The ratio of rhododendron to moisture is very interesting. On the one hand, it absolutely does not tolerate waterlogging, on the other, it requires constant spraying and watering with specially prepared water.

Even when choosing a site for planting, check whether groundwater does not come close to the surface. The fact is that with a large amount of moisture in the soil, the roots will simply "choke" and the plant will die. That is why a drainage layer is needed to drain excess water.

It is especially important to observe the watering regime and atmospheric irrigation during the period of bud development and flowering - the better the watering, the brighter and more magnificent the inflorescences will be

Watering is carried out regularly, pre-acidifying the water - for this, 2-3 handfuls of sphagnum peat are placed in a container with water 12-20 hours before watering. It is better not to use tap water; in extreme cases, it must be defended. The ideal option is rain collection. The regularity of watering depends on the state of the plant: as soon as the leaves have lost their glossy shine and changed turgor, it is time to water.

When is it better to prune a plant

The concept of trimming is very arbitrary. Usually, the plant develops evenly and forms a profusely flowering bush of the correct shape, so lovers of lush flower beds do not need to prune. But sometimes you need to thin out the shrub, make it a little lower, or just rejuvenate it.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, until the sap flow has begun. Choose strong, thick branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, carefully cut off the ends with garden shears and process the cuts with specially prepared garden pitch or resin. In about a month, the renewal process will start, which continues throughout the year - new shoots will hatch and dormant buds will begin to develop.

Pruning of frozen or old bushes requires special skill: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately within 2 years: some this year, the second - next

Rhododendrons are characterized by uneven flowering. If this year they pleased you with a particularly exuberant color, expect more modest results next year. To prevent this from happening, remove wilted buds immediately after flowering, and then the plant will have enough strength to recruit as many buds as possible in the second year.

Protection from pests and diseases

Branching shrubs with dense foliage and many buds are a great place to live for insects, half of which can destroy the beauty you have grown within a couple of weeks, so a number of measures must be taken to protect the shrub.

Thick trunks and branches are a favorite place for mollusks. Slugs and snails are collected by hand. Watch out for scale insects, bedbugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies, mealy worms. Treat the stems and branches with 8% Tiram fungicide, Karbofos helps well.

It is more difficult to remove bugs, ticks, and especially the weevil, for which diazonin is used to get rid of. Remember, in order to say goodbye to a harmful guest forever, it is necessary to process not only the plant itself, but also the top layer of soil around it

Along with insect pests, rhododendrons are threatened by diseases of the fungal type - rust, chlorosis, spotting. The reason lies in insufficient aeration and non-compliance with the irrigation regime. Yellowness resulting from chlorosis is treated with an iron chelate solution. If rot appears, the affected shoots should be cut off completely. For prevention, seasonal treatment with Bordeaux liquid is carried out in late autumn or early April.

Top dressing and choice of fertilizers

It is necessary to start feeding rhododendrons from planting and throughout the entire flowering period. To preserve an acidic environment important for culture, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, magnesium sulfate or calcium, ammonium are used, but in a minimum concentration.

Early spring feeding is made up of fertilizers containing nitrogen (for 1 cubic meter of liquid 40-50 g of magnesium sulfate or ammonium), it is also relevant in the period after flowering. In July, the fertilizer dose should be reduced to 20 g.

The ideal feed for rhododendrons is a liquid solution of natural fertilizers such as horn meal or cow dung. Overripe manure is diluted with water (1 part of fertilizer per 15 parts of water), infused for 3-4 days and used during watering

After 1-2 years after planting, the topsoil must be renewed. For this, peat is mixed in equal parts with humus or compost and sprinkled around the roots. Along with natural ingredients, superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ammonium are added to the bedding (dry matter - 1 tbsp. Spoon). As a dry powder, you can use Agricola for flowering garden plants... Remember to fertilize only carefully watered shrubs.

Breeding methods - which one to choose

Consider the three most successful ways to reproduce rhododendron in the garden:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• layering.

Growing plants from seeds is a long and laborious task. Dry, healthy seeds are sown in pots or boxes of damp peat, a little sand is added, covered with glass caps and placed in a well-lit place. Within a month, it is necessary to moisten the soil and remove condensation from the glass.

The seedlings that appear after 4 weeks are planted in a greenhouse with a cool climate according to the 2 x 3 cm scheme.The seedlings will grow for a very long time, and only after 6-7 years you will see the first flowering

Reproduction by cuttings is also not tolerated by all gardeners. It is necessary to take half-woody shoots and cut several cuttings from them about 7-8 cm long.

The leaves are removed from the bottom, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin - a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours

Then they are placed in peat soil and covered, as is the case with seeds. Depending on the variety, the cuttings will take root in 2-4 months, after which they are transplanted into boxes with peat-coniferous soil and taken out to a cool greenhouse. The optimum temperature is 10 ° C. They are planted in spring along with other flowers, right in boxes, and only after a couple of years they can be transplanted to the main place of growth.

The most convenient breeding option is pinning layers. A flexible lower shoot is taken, a groove 12-15 cm deep is pulled out near it, and the shoot is placed in this groove.

So that it does not rise, the middle part of the stem is pinned, and sprinkled with peat on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck into the ground

The layering is looked after in the same way as the entire bush - watered, sprayed. When it takes root (in late autumn or spring), it is carefully separated, dug up and transplanted to the place of permanent growth. This method is especially good for breeding deciduous rhododendrons.

The most popular summer cottages

In the coniferous garden, a 2-3-meter Daurian rhododendron will live well. It is distinguished by abundant flowering of buds, reaching a diameter of 4 cm.

If the warm season drags on, then the Daursky variety will certainly delight you with repeated autumn flowering, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom as usual

Rhododendron Adams is an oriental guest accustomed to rocky mountain soils.

A beautiful plant with pale pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. It is rarely found in our country, and in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book

The low, creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.

The petals of the inflorescences of the Caucasian rhododendron are distinguished by an unusual pale yellow or cream shade, which will remarkably dilute the more saturated, juicy colors of other varieties

The Japanese Rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous cultivar with flamingo-colored buds.

Japanese rhododendrons with delightful flowers and picturesque foliage that turns red in autumn are unpretentious, winter-hardy and reproduce well in any way - an excellent option for growing in middle lane Of Russia

And finally - a short video on how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.

Plant rhododendron (lat.Rhododendron) - a genus of semi-deciduous, deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs of the Heather family, which, according to various sources, includes from eight hundred to one thousand three hundred species, including azaleas that are popular in indoor floriculture, which are nicknamed "indoor rhododendron". The word "rhododendron" consists of two roots: "rhodon", which means "rose", and "dendron" - a tree, which as a result forms the concept of "rose tree", or "tree with roses." But azaleas really look like roses.

In nature, rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere - in southern China, Japan, the Himalayas, North America and Southeast Asia. Most often they are found in the coastal zone of rivers, seas and oceans, in partial shade undergrowth and on the northern slopes of the mountains. Some rhododendrons are capable of growing up to 30 cm in height, while others are creeping shrubs. The flowers of plants of this genus differ in size, color, and shape. Suffice it to say that the smallest of them are literally tiny in size, and the largest reach a diameter of 20 cm. The garden rhododendron today has about 3,000 forms, varieties and varieties.

Listen to the article

• Landing: April to mid-May or September to November.
• Bloom: in late April-early June for 2-3 weeks. Abundant flowering occurs in a year.
• Lighting: partial shade or shade.
• The soil: well-drained, loose, rich in humus, acidic.
• Watering: The soil should be soaked with slightly acidified water to a depth of 20-30 cm. A sign that it is time for watering is the loss of turgor by the leaves.
• Cropping: minimal, in early spring, before sap flow begins.
• Top dressing: liquid organic matter (solution of cow manure or horny flour) or solutions of mineral fertilizers on pre-moistened soil from early spring to late July.
• Reproduction: seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, cuttings and layering.
• Pests: aphids, mealybugs, bedbugs, weevils, spider mites, scale insects, rhododendra flies, snails and slugs.
• Diseases: chlorosis, rust, powdery mildew, leaf spots and cancer.

Read more about growing rhododendron below.

Rhododendron flower - description

Garden rhododendron is represented by shrubs with leaves of various sizes and shapes - annual, biennial and perennial, sessile or petiolate, alternate, whole-edged or serrate, ovate or obovate. The rhododendron flower is popular all over the world due to the decorativeness of its foliage, but its main advantage is the magnificent flowers of white, pink, red, purple, lilac, collected in shields or brushes, reminiscent of a chic bouquet. Depending on the variety and type, the shape of the flowers can be bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, wheel-shaped or tubular. In some species, the flowers emit a pleasant aroma. The fruit of the rhododendron is a polyspermous five-leafed capsule with seeds up to 2 mm in size.

The root system of rhododendron is compact, superficial, consisting of many fibrous roots, and it is precisely because of its superficial location that rhododendron transplantation is easy and does not cause much trouble to either the gardener or the plant. Rhododendron is an excellent early spring honey plant.

Planting a rhododendron

Where and when is the best place to plant rhododendron

In our climate, rhododendrons in the garden make sense to grow exclusively winter-hardy. Planting rhododendron in the ground is carried out from April to mid-May, as well as from September to November. Actually, if necessary, this can be done at any time period of the growing season, with the exception of the time when the rhododendron blooms, and within one to two weeks after flowering. It is better to plant rhododendron in the shade, on the north side of the building, in loose, well-drained acidic soil, rich in humus.

If the groundwater in your area lies at a depth of less than one meter, the rhododendron is planted on a raised bed.

Rhododendron neighbors can be pine, oak, larch - trees with a root system extending deep into the interior. Trees such as linden, chestnut, alder, maple, willow, elm or poplar will deprive the rhododendron of the nutrition it needs because its roots will feed at the same depth as rhododendron roots. If it is not possible to avoid such a neighborhood, you will have to protect the root system of the rhododendron by digging roofing material, slate or polyethylene into the ground. Good neighbors for rhododendron are considered garden trees - apple trees, pears.

How to plant a rhododendron

A thoroughly mixed mixture of 8 buckets of high-moor peat and 3.5 buckets of loam is poured into the planting hole with a diameter of about 60 cm and a depth of about 40 cm (you can replace the loam with two buckets of clay). The mixture at the bottom of the pit is carefully rammed, and then a hole is dug in it, corresponding to the size of the root ball of the seedling. Before planting, immerse the rhododendron seedlings in water and keep them there until no more air bubbles. Then place the roots of the seedling in the hole, fill the hole to the top with the substrate, tamping it down so that no voids remain. The root neck of the rhododendron should eventually be at the level of the surface of the site.

Water the bush abundantly if you planted rhododendron in dry soil so that the soil is soaked 20 cm deep, and mulch the trunk circle with peat, oak leaves, moss or pine needles with a layer of 5-6 cm.If there are a lot of flower buds on the bush, part is better remove from them in order to direct the forces for successful rooting, and not for the flowering of the rhododendron. When planting alone in a spacious area, so that the wind does not sway the newly planted plant, you need to stick in the support, tilting it towards the direction of the most frequently blowing winds, and tie the seedling to it. As soon as the bush takes root, the support can be removed.

Rhododendron care

Caring for a rhododendron includes the usual procedures: watering, spraying, weeding, feeding, forming a bush and fighting diseases and pests, if the need arises. To loosen the soil around the rhododendron, and even more so to dig it up, cannot be categorically due to the plant roots located too close to the surface. For the same reasons, weeds must be removed manually, without using a hoe.

Rhododendron needs soil and atmospheric moisture more than other plants, especially during bud formation and flowering. Proper watering affects the bookmark too flower buds next year. Watering is carried out with soft water - settled or rainwater. You can soften and at the same time acidify the water for the rhododendron by adding a few handfuls of high-moor peat to it a day before watering. The frequency of watering is determined by the state of the leaves: if they become dull and lose turgor, it means they are thirsty. When moistened, the soil should get wet to a depth of 20-30 cm.

However, it is very important, when watering rhododendron, not to flood the roots, since the plant is sensitive to excess moisture in the roots, but behaves when waterlogged in the same way as during drought - it lowers and folds the leaves. So that the rhododendron does not mislead you, in dry and hot weather try, without increasing the amount of water when watering, spray the rhododendron leaves with soft water as often as possible.

Pruning rhododendron

Pruning rhododendrons should be kept to a minimum, as their shrubs form the correct shape by themselves. However, sometimes it is necessary to cut too tall bushes, remove frozen shoots or rejuvenate old rhododendron. How to prune an adult bush correctly? Shoots are pruned in early spring, before sap flow begins. In those places where the thickness of the branches reaches 2-4 cm, the cuts are treated with garden pitch. After a month, dormant buds awaken on the shoots, and the process of renewal begins, which continues throughout the year.

Very old or very frozen bushes are cut off at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground: in the first year one half of the bush, the next year - the second.

Rhododendrons have one feature: in one year they bloom and bear fruit very abundantly, and the next year both flowering and fruiting of rhododendrons are much more modest. To get rid of such a periodicity, it is necessary to break out the wilted inflorescences immediately after flowering so that the rhododendron uses its strength and nutrition to form flower buds for the next year.

Feeding rhododendron

You need to fertilize even those rhododendrons that were planted this year, and the first feeding is applied in early spring, and the last one - at the end of July, after flowering, when young shoots begin to grow. Rhododendrons prefer liquid feeding from half-rotted cow dung, horn meal. Manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:15 and allowed to brew for several days, and only then used as fertilizer. Before feeding, the rhododendron is watered.

Since rhododendrons grow in acidic soils, in order not to disrupt the reaction of the environment, it is preferable to use ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, nitric acid, sulfate or phosphate potassium, calcium sulfate and magnesium in a very weak concentration - 1.2: 1000 from mineral fertilizers, and a solution of potassium fertilizers can be even weaker. The optimal feeding regime involves the introduction of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers in early spring at the rate of 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m2, and after flowering, in early June, 40 g of ammonium sulfate is applied to 1 m2 of a plot with rhododendrons and 20 g superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In July, only 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are applied per 1 m².

Rhododendron pests and diseases

Of the pests, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, bugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, as well as snails and slugs, bother rhododendrons most of all.

Gastropods are collected by hand, and as a preventive measure, rhododendron is treated with an eight percent solution of the fungicide TMTD, or Thiram.

Spider mites, rhododendron bugs, as well as weevils are destroyed by treatment with diazinon, and in case of damage to rhododendron by a weevil, the topsoil will also have to be treated with an insecticide.

The rest of the insects are exterminated by karbofos in accordance with the instructions for the preparation.

Of the diseases, rhododendrons are most often pursued by fungal diseases - leaf spots, cancer, chlorosis, rust. They usually arise as a result of poor aeration of the roots. Spots and rust are destroyed by preparations of copper sulfate, in particular by Bordeaux liquid.

Chlorosis, from which the rhododendron turns yellow, requires the addition of iron chelate to the water for irrigation. As for cancer, it is necessary to remove the diseased shoots or cut them to healthy tissue, in addition, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments of rhododendron with Bordeaux liquid in early spring and late autumn.

Reproduction of rhododendron

Rhododendrons reproduce generatively (by seeds) and vegetatively - by dividing the bush, layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way is to propagate rhododendrons by layering, and we will tell you about this method, as well as how to properly sow seeds and carry out cuttings.

Rhododendron seeds are sown in bowls with well-moistened heather or peat soil mixed with sand at a rate of 3: 1, sprinkle the seeds with washed sand on top, cover the bowls with glass and place them in a bright place for germination. Crop care consists in moistening the substrate as needed, daily airing and removing condensation from the glass. Seedlings usually appear in a month, and when a pair of leaves appear at the seedlings, they are planted more freely according to a 2x3 cm scheme, buried in the ground along the cotyledons so that the root system of the seedlings is formed.

The first year the seedlings are kept in a cool greenhouse, and the next year they are planted in open ground on training beds with garden soil mixed with sand and peat. Seedlings grow very slowly and bloom only for 6-8 years.

Propagating rhododendron by cuttings is not much easier. For this, semi-lignified shoots are suitable, from which cuttings 5-8 cm long are cut. The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, and the lower sections are kept in a solution of a root growth stimulator, for example, in heteroauxin, for 12-16 hours. Then the cuttings are placed in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1 and covered with a transparent dome. Cuttings take root long and hard: deciduous species are one and a half months, and evergreens - 3-4.5 months.

Cuttings are grown in boxes with a mixture of peat and pine needles in a ratio of 2: 1, for the winter they are taken out into a cool, bright room, where the temperature is kept within 8-12 ºC, and in the spring they are added in the garden right in boxes and grown for another year or two until transplants to a permanent place.

Digging in layers is the easiest and most natural way to reproduce rhododendron. In the spring, a young, flexible shoot from those growing at the very bottom of the bush is bent down and placed in a previously made groove at least 15 cm deep, with the middle part of the shoot pinned into the groove, and garden soil mixed with peat is poured onto it on top. The top of the shoot remains on the surface and is tied to a peg stuck vertically.

Throughout the season, the cuttings are moistened along with the bush, and in the fall or next spring, the rooted cuttings are separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a permanent place. It is best to propagate deciduous rhododendron in this way.

Rhododendron after flowering

Rhododendron in autumn

If the autumn turns out to be dry, the rhododendron must be watered abundantly - 10-12 liters for each bush. If it's autumn, as usual, with rains, then you won't have to water the rhododendrons. By November, each bush is insulated in the root zone, laying a layer of peat along the near-trunk circle.

Rhododendron in winter

If you live in the middle lane, with the first frosts, the rhododendron bushes need to be covered with burlap, after having tucked spruce and pine branches between the branches and slightly pulling the bush with twine. The bags are removed on a cloudy day in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. In warmer regions, rhododendrons hibernate without shelter.

Types and varieties of rhododendrons

You can endlessly talk about the types of rhododendron, since there are a lot of them. We will give a description of those that are grown in culture, and also introduce you to the most popular garden varieties of rhododendrons.

Rhododendron dahurian (Rhododendron dahuricum)

It grows naturally in the Primorsky Territory, Northeastern China, Korea, Eastern Siberia and Northern Mongolia, preferring coniferous forests and rocks. It is an evergreen, medium-sized, strongly branched shrub with a height of two to four meters with gray bark and branches directed upwards. Its shoots are thin, reddish-brown, pubescent closer to the ends with a short nap. Small leathery leaves up to three centimeters long are smooth on the upper side of the plate, scaly below - light green in youth, darker in maturity, and in autumn either brown or red-green. With the onset of winter, not all leaves fall off; many of them stay on the branches all winter. Abundant flowering of Daurian rhododendron, lasting about three weeks, occurs before the leaves bloom with funnel-shaped large flowers of a purple-pink hue, reaching 4 cm in diameter. Sometimes in the fall, the Daurian rhododendron blooms again.

This species is very winter-hardy, easily propagated by green cuttings. Has two varieties:

• evergreen form with dark green leaves and purple-purple flowers;
• early garden hybrid, undersized, with abundant, bright, early blooming bluish-red flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. This form is not as hardy as the main species.

Rhododendron Adams (Rhododendron adamsii)

Rhododendron evergreen growing on Far East and on the northeastern foothills of Tibet and choosing mountain forests and rocky slopes for habitation. It is a branched shrub up to half a meter high with shoots covered with glandular pile. Dense matte green leaves are oblong-elliptical, up to 2 cm in length and up to 2 cm in width, glabrous from above, red from below due to scales. Flowers up to one and a half cm in diameter in different shades pink colour collected in corymbose inflorescences of 7-15 pieces. This rhododendron is included in the Red Book of Buryatia.

Japanese Rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum)

As the name implies, it comes from Japan, from the sunny mountains of the island of Honshu. This species is one of the finest deciduous rhododendrons, a branchy shrub up to two meters tall with shoots naked or covered with silvery bristles. The leaf of the Japanese rhododendron is green, oblong-lanceolate, with soft pubescence on both sides of the leaf blade. In autumn, the leaves turn orange-red. Fragrant bell-shaped flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, collected in 6-12 pieces in racemose inflorescences, colored orange and scarlet-red. In the middle lane, there is no species equal in beauty to the Japanese rhododendron. In addition, the species is winter-hardy, reproduces well by cuttings and seeds.

Caucasian rhododendron (Rhododendron caucasicum)

grows wild in the Caucasus, as its name suggests. This is a short evergreen shrub with creeping branches. The leaves of the Caucasian rhododendron are leathery, oval, oblong, dark green, glabrous on the upper side of the plate and tomentose on the lower side, located on long thick petioles. Fragrant funnel-bell-shaped yellowish flowers with green spots inside the pharynx are collected in 8-12 pieces in racemose inflorescences located on hairy peduncles.

The view has several decorative forms:

• pink-white, which blooms before the main species;
• shiny with dark pink flowers;
• golden yellow with yellow flowersdecorated with greenish specks;
• straw yellow with yellow flowers with reddish spots.

In addition to the species described, Albrecht's rhododendrons, Atlantic, Vaseya, holo-flowered, tree-like, yellow, coarse-haired, western, golden, Indian, Kamchatka, Canadian, Carolinian, Carpathian, carpal, glutinous, short-fruited, blushing, largest, large-leaved, Lapland , Ledebura, small-leaved, marigold, sea buckthorn, spiky, dense, Pontic, attractive, Pukhan, rusty, equal height, pink, Sikhotin, slate, dull, rooting, Yakushiman and many others.

Hybrid rhododendron

This is the name of the set of cultivar forms and hybrids of rhododendrons grown in culture. In other words, the hybrid rhododendron is a garden rhododendron. The most popular varieties of hybrid rhododendron are:

• german cultivar Alfred, bred by crossing the Everestina variety with the Katevbinsky rhododendron and is an evergreen shrub up to 120 cm high with a crown diameter of about one and a half meters. Leaves are oblong-elliptical, dark green and shiny. Bright flowers purple in color with a yellow-green spot up to 6 cm in diameter, collected in dense inflorescences of 15-20 pieces;
• blue Peter grade obtained by crossing the Pontic rhododendron. The height of the bush is more than one and a half meters. The crown is spreading, up to two meters in diameter. Flowers up to 6 cm in diameter lavender-blue shade with corrugated edges and with dark spot purple on the upper petal;

• Jacksoni Is an English hybrid between the Nobleanum variety and the Caucasian rhododendron. The bush is up to two meters high, the crown diameter is about three meters. There is a low-growing form up to 80 cm high. The leaves are oblong, leathery, dull green above and brown below. Flowers collected in inflorescences of 8-12 pieces during blooming have a pink tint, and later turn white with yellow spot on one petal;
• Rose Marie - a variety of Czech selection, bred by crossing the Pink Pearl variety and the magnificent rhododendron. The height of the bush is 120 cm, the girth of the crown is one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, leathery, the upper side of the leaf plate is a light green shade with a waxy coating, the lower leaves are blue-green, glossy. The flowers are pale pink at the edges, and in the middle they are densely pink with a purple tint, collected in compact spherical inflorescences of 6-14 pieces;
• Nova Zembla - Dutch hybrid between Persone Gloriosum and Katevbinsky rhododendron. Bush up to 3 m high and loose crown up to 3.5 m in girth. Shoots grow almost vertically, the leaves are large, leathery, shiny. Large flowers up to 6 cm in diameter, red with a black spot, collected in 10-12 pieces in dense inflorescences;

• Cunningham - Scottish cultivar, the most popular variety of the Caucasian rhododendron, reaching a height of two meters with a crown diameter of one and a half meters. Leaves are oblong, leathery, dark green, up to 6 cm long and up to 3 cm wide. White flowers with yellow-brown specks are collected in 10 pieces in dense inflorescences.

Rhododendron properties

In addition to the indisputable decorative advantages, rhododendron has medicinal properties, which are widely used in folk and traditional medicine. Species such as Rhododendron Daurian, Golden, Adams, Caucasian, contain andromedotoxin, ericoline, arbutin and rhododendrin. The leaves of rhododendron also contain ascorbic acid, the highest concentration of which in the plant is observed in the summer months. Due to the content of substances useful for the human body, rhododendron has antipyretic, analgesic, bactericidal, sedative and diaphoretic effects. It removes excess fluid from the body, relieving shortness of breath, edema, rapid heartbeat, lowers arterial and venous pressure and enhances cardiac activity.

However, rhododendron is far from harmless. During pregnancy and breastfeeding, as well as patients with tissue necrosis and suffering from serious kidney disease, you should refrain from taking drugs based on rhododendron. And in any case, before taking such medications, it would be most correct to first consult with doctors.

Rhododendron in the Moscow region - features

Sometimes amateur flower growers, fascinated by a beautiful advertising picture, are eager to grow an outlandish bush called a rhododendron in their garden. But how often, despite the money, time and effort spent, they are disappointed - the bush on the site looks completely different from the advertising booklet, moreover, it withers every day and, in the end, dies. Is it possible to avoid such a sad ending and grow the heat-loving rhododendron plant in Moscow, for example? Is it possible to grow rhododendron in the Moscow region, in the Leningrad region and other areas of the middle lane? As they say, with the right approach, nothing is impossible.

Planting rhododendron in the suburbs

Firstly, you need to know exactly which of the rhododendron species can survive the winter near Moscow, since non-cold-resistant species and varieties die from frost even under cover. It is best to plant, of course, deciduous species of rhododendrons: Japanese, yellow, Schlippenbach, Vaseya, Canadian, Kamchatka, Pukhan. Of the semi-evergreen species, the Ledebour rhododendron is suitable, and from the evergreens, the Katevbinsky rhododendron can be grown (as well as its hybrids Alfred, Abraham Lincoln, Nova Zembla, Cunningham White), the short-fruited, golden rhododendrons, the largest and the rhododendron of Smirykiryarnov, Dyphtwycril and his hybrid Well-established not so long ago in Finland winter hardy varieties Elvira, The Hague, Mikkeli. The hybrids of the Northern Light group Rosie Lights, Pink Lights, Spicy Lights and others winter well in the middle lane.

If you have purchased a winter-hardy rhododendron, then you need to be able to plant it correctly. First, you need to do this in the spring, choosing a semi-shady place no closer than a meter from any other plants. Secondly, buy a special soil for rhododendron or make your own mixture of garden soil, pine needles and peat. You need to add a complex mineral fertilizer... Thirdly, the pit for a rhododendron seedling should be twice the size of the container with the root system of the seedling, and if the soil in the area is clay, be sure to pour a drainage layer of broken brick 15 cm thick on the bottom of the pit.Fourly, do not deepen the root during planting the neck - let it remain at the same level as in the container. Be sure to water the seedling after planting.

Rhododendron care in the Moscow region

Planting and caring for rhododendron in the Moscow region is not much different from growing this plant in regions with warmer winters, but there are still differences. We offer you a list of requirements, having fulfilled which, you can well count on success, despite the cool climate of your area:

• rhododendrons grow in acidic humus soils. In the area where the roots take nutrients, there should be no dolomite, ash, lime and other substances that alkalize the soil;
• mulching of the rhododendron near-trunk circles is necessary, especially since it is impossible to loosen and dig up the soil around the bushes due to the horizontal location of the rhododendron root system;
• in the spring, organize the protection of the rhododendron from the sun's rays with a net, gauze or cloth;
• the most important factor for success is deep and balanced watering of the rhododendron: it should receive just as much moisture as it needs, no more, no less. In a dry hot summer, watering is carried out twice a week.

Sometimes in early autumn, due to warm rainy weather, rhododendrons begin to grow, but young shoots do not have time to ripen and die in winter. To avoid unwanted late growth of shoots, spray the bush in dry weather with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate or monophosphate from a fine spray - this measure will stop growth, stimulate lignification of shoots and the laying of flower buds for the next year. However, after spraying, you should stop watering the rhododendron, even if dry weather is established.

After this article, they usually read

Rhododendron flowers are considered popular and interesting plants that adorn any garden. They belong to the genus of deciduous or semi-deciduous trees and shrubs. They are part of the Heather family. The literal translation of the name of this plant is a rose tree, since the inflorescences really resemble unique and attractive roses in appearance.

Rhododendrons

Note! Rhododendron flowers can vary significantly in size and shape, as well as in color, which allows you to choose the optimal type of plant for each grower.

Description of rhododendron

Rhododendrons grow naturally in Japan and the Himalayas, and are also found in North America and southern China. They often grow on the coast of different seas, rivers or oceans.

The features of garden rhododendrons include:

• is a shrub equipped with leaves of different configuration and dimensions, and shrubs can be annuals, biennials or perennials;
• sessile or petiolate, as well as serrate or ovoid leaves are found;
• rhododendron is incredibly popular due to the attractive appearance of the leaves, but flowers with white, pink, purple or red tints are considered the most beautiful;
• flowers are collected in brushes or shields, so they form rather large bouquets, striking in their decorativeness and sophistication;
• rhododendron flowers may possess in various shapes, which completely depends on the variety and type of plant, so they can be funnel-shaped or tubular, bell-shaped or wheel-shaped;
• in many varieties, flowers have a unique pleasant aroma;
• the fruit is five-leafed capsules, which contain many seeds;
• rhododendron seeds do not exceed 2 mm in length;
• the root system of the plant is compact;
• the roots are located on the surface of the earth, so transplanting a rhododendron is an easy and quick job.

Note! This flower is in demand in the territories where beekeeping apiaries are arranged, since the rhododendron is an early spring honey plant.

Types and varieties of rhododendron

There are many different types rhododendron, but the most popular are:

• Daurskyrhododendron. Found in nature next to coniferous forests or on the rocks. It is represented by an evergreen shrub with significant branching and medium height. Its height varies from 2 to 4 m. It has gray bark and long branches directed upwards. The leaves are small, since they usually do not exceed 3 cm in length. Moreover, the plates are smooth on top, and scaly below. Some leaves stay on the bush at all throughout the winter. The flowering of this rhododendron lasts about 3 weeks, and the inflorescences appear before the immediate blooming of the leaves. The flowers are funnel-shaped and purple-pink in color. Their size reaches 4 cm in diameter. Blossoming is often repeated in autumn. The species is considered resistant to frost and propagates by cuttings.

Rhododendron daurian (Rhododendron dauricum)

• Japanese rhododendron. This species grows in nature in Japan, and is considered one of the most attractive and interesting. It is represented by a branchy shrub, the height of which is within 2 meters. It has bare shoots, and some may have silvery bristles. The leaves of this rhododendron are green and oblong. They have soft pubescence on both sides. In autumn, they acquire a reddish tint. The flowers are bell-shaped, and their size is about 8 cm in diameter. They are collected in racemose inflorescences of about 8 pieces. They have an orange or red tint.

Japanese Rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum)

• Hybrid. This includes many varieties obtained by combining different types of rhododendron. The most popular varieties are: Blue Peter, Alfred and Rose Marie.

Rhododendron Blue Peter

Rhododendron Alfred

Rhododendron Rose Marie

Thus, before the direct acquisition of a certain species or variety of rhododendron, it is necessary to decide which variety is optimal for cultivation.

Rhododendron - landing

Russian climatic conditions are considered not very suitable for this plant, therefore, exclusively winter-hardy varieties are chosen. The planting procedure is accompanied by certain features:

• it is recommended to plant rhododendrons in the ground between the beginning of April and mid-May, and it is also allowed to carry out the process in the fall, namely in October;
• planting is not allowed during the flowering period, therefore, this process is usually performed 2 weeks after its end;
• for planting a rhododendron, it is advisable to choose shaded areas of the territory, therefore, the northern side of the building is considered optimal;
• loose soil with a high acidity index is being prepared, and it is desirable to additionally add humus to it;
• the soil must be well drained;
• if the groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth, then it is recommended to plant the rhododendron using a raised bed;
• it is optimal to plant a plant next to an oak or larch, as well as other trees whose roots go deep into the ground;
• for planting a rhododendron, an optimal planting pit is created, the diameter of which is approximately 60 cm;
• its depth should be about 40 cm;
• a mixture of peat and loam is poured into it, since these components are considered optimal for creating a high-quality planting mixture;
• this mixture is well rammed in the hole, after which a hole is made in it, the dimensions of which are completely equal to the root coma of the prepared seedling;
• it is recommended to prepare well the seedlings of rhododendron, for which they are immersed in water before planting and kept there until air bubbles appear on the surface;
• the roots of the plant are lowered into the prepared hole, after which the hole is covered with a substrate;
• it ramps well, since voids are not allowed;
• if the soil has not been moistened in advance, after planting the rhododendron is well watered, and it is important that the soil is moistened by about 20 cm in depth;
• the trunk circle is mulched with peat, and oak leaves or moss are also used for this;
• if a rhododendron seedling was purchased, equipped with a large number of buds, then some of them are eliminated so that all the forces of the plant are directed to rooting;
• for protection from the wind, it is recommended to use a support, and it tilts towards the winds, and it is removed after the rhododendron bush takes root well.

Note! With the correct planting process, the root collar of the seedling is at ground level.

Rhododendron - care

These plants are considered easy to care for, therefore, light actions are performed for optimal growth:

• it is not allowed to loosen or dig up the soil next to the rhododendron bushes, as you can easily damage the roots located near the surface of the earth;
• weeds are removed exclusively by hand, so you cannot use a hoe or other auxiliary tools;
• rhododendron is considered a specific plant that needs a lot of moisture, not only in the soil, but also in the atmosphere, and this is especially true during the period when buds are formed or the flower begins to bloom;
• it is recommended to water the flowers with exceptionally soft and settled water;
• it is allowed to add a little peat to the water a day before using it;
• the amount of watering of rhododendron is quite easy to determine after examining the condition of the leaves, since if they become dull, then it is imperative to water them;
• it is necessary to water it with a significant amount of water in order to shed the soil to a depth of about 30 cm, but it is not allowed to flood the roots too much, as this can lead to lowering and folding of the leaves;
• it is recommended to additionally spray rhododendron leaves in hot weather;
• plant pruning is carried out minimally, since the bushes themselves form an attractive and regular shape, but sometimes it is required to cut excessively tall bushes;
• frozen shoots are removed by pruning, and this process must be performed in early spring;
• cuts are processed with garden varnish;
• by all means, top dressing is introduced for all rhododendrons, and this process must be performed in early spring and in mid-summer after the end of flowering;
• it is advisable for this plant to use liquid fertilizers obtained with the use of horny flour and cow dung;
• water the plant well before using top dressing;
• rhododendrons are grown in acidic soil, so fertilizers suitable for such soil are selected.

Note! A specific feature of rhododendron is that in one year it strikes with abundant and attractive flowering, but the next year fruiting and flowering worsens, and in order to prevent such consequences, it is recommended to remove wilted inflorescences after flowering, as this will lead to the fact that all the forces of the plant will be directed to the formation of new kidneys.

Thus, there is no particular difficulty in caring for a rhododendron, so if you carefully study all the rules, they will always delight you with abundant and beautiful flowering.

Rhododendron after flowering

In autumn, it is required to water the plants well in dry weather. If the rains are regular, then you can not water the rhododendrons at all. In November, the bushes near the roots are insulated, for which a sufficiently dense layer of peat is used.

For optimal wintering, it is recommended to cover the plants with burlap, under which spruce or pine branches are laid. Such a shelter is removed in early spring after the snow melts.

Diseases and pests of rhododendrons

Pests are often found on the plant:

• spider mites, bugs and weevils, and they should be destroyed with diazinon;
• flies and mealybugs, as well as snails, scale insects and other pests are removed by karbofos.

Fungal diseases in rhododendrons are common, including cancer, rust, or leaf spot. Usually their appearance is associated with poor aeration of the roots. To eliminate diseases, copper sulfate or other special preparations are used.

Chlorosis causes rhododendrons to turn yellow, so when watering it is recommended to use water with the addition of iron. Cancer-affected shoots are removed, and the whole plant is treated with Bordeaux liquid for prevention.

Rhododendron in the Moscow region

Many people are interested in the possibility of growing a rhododendron in the Moscow region, as this plant is striking in its sophistication and attractiveness, therefore it can become a decoration of any site.

Note! Many people buy a plant, plant it on the territory and observe the decay of the rhododendron, and this is due to improper care of it.

The main features of growing a flower in the Moscow region include:

• exclusively frost-resistant varieties are selected that can withstand a significant drop in temperature;
• planting is carried out in the spring and in a place where there is partial shade;
• the close proximity of rhododendron with other flowers is not desirable, so a distance of about 1 m is left between them;
• it is recommended to purchase a special soil intended for rhododendrons;
• the hole for planting is 2 times larger than the root system of the existing seedling;
• if there is clay soil, then a drainage layer is made at the bottom of the planting pit;
• it is not allowed to significantly deepen the root neck of the rhododendron;
• the seedling is watered after planting;
• balanced, regular and deep watering is certainly carried out;
• if a lot of sunlight gets on the rhododendron, then it is recommended to cover it with gauze or mesh;
• circles are mulched next to the plant, but it is not allowed to loosen or dig up the flower.

Thus, the key to effective and optimal growth and development of rhododendron in the Moscow region is its competent planting and proper care.

Rhododendron properties

Rhododendron has not only an attractive and unique appearance, but also some useful properties... These include:

• some varieties contain ascorbic acid, and its content is maximum in the summer;
• rhododendron is used to reduce pressure, get rid of edema and shortness of breath, and also helps to remove excess fluid from the body;
• can be used as an antipyretic and pain reliever;
• used to calm down.

Note! Rhododendron is not a harmless plant, therefore, it is forbidden to take it to pregnant and lactating women, as well as people with kidney disease.

Rhododendron flowers - photo

Mother's Day Rhododendron

Thus, the rhododendron is a beautiful plant that requires optimal care for its growth and flowering. With a competent approach, it is ensured that a really attractive and bright plant is obtained, which becomes a real decoration of the territory. It can be used to treat a variety of health conditions due to its many beneficial properties.