Wintering of rhododendrons in the middle lane. How to properly create a shelter for rhododendrons for the winter? How to cover a rhododendron for the winter

Rhododendrons are flowering shrubs that need a mandatory winter shelter. It is on how successfully the plant overwinters that its decorative effect in the next season depends.

Do all types of rhododendrons need shelter?
In the conditions of central Russia, deciduous varieties winter best. For example, Daurian, Yellow, Canadian, Japanese, Ledebour and Schlippenbach do not need special protection. But in order to prevent freezing, it is recommended to close the root collar zone. You can use peat or dry foliage here.

Evergreen varieties do not differ in winter hardiness, therefore they need a mandatory shelter.

Choosing an insulation option
The technique will depend not only on the variety, but also on the age of the shrub. Rhododendrons, which are not yet one year old, can be covered with a regular cardboard box. First, it is necessary to thoroughly mulch the root area. A small hole must be made in the side of the box. It is necessary for air circulation.

To protect the paper from getting wet, you can cover it on top:
· A film;
· Spruce branches, having built a hut out of it.

Straw and hay are not suitable as they attract hibernating rodents.

Advice! Early shelter can lead to damping of the plant and its death. Therefore, the warming of rhododendrons should be done after a stable subzero temperature is established - below -9 degrees.

Another common way is construction of a small greenhouse... Arcs are set over the bush, which is then pounced on. It is best to engage in the construction of the frame in the fall, and close the plant with the onset of cold weather.

At least two layers of the chosen covering material must be laid on the frame. It can be lutrasil, agrotex and others. You can just use spruce branches.

The size and height of the frame depends on the parameters of the shrub. It is necessary to ensure that a distance of 15 cm remains between the branches of the plant and the thrown material.This is quite enough so that the fabric sagging under the weight of the snow does not lie on the branches and does not damage them.
In addition, in places where foliage and frozen tissue meet, there is a high risk of freezing of the rhododendron.

It is recommended to lay a layer of film on top of the covering material. It will protect the structure from getting wet and gusts of wind. The material should not only completely cover the frame, but also sink to the ground. To prevent the fabric from being blown away by the wind, its edges must be pressed with bricks or any heavy objects.

On one side of the greenhouse, you need to leave air (do not close it tightly), then air will circulate around the plant. Full isolation of the rhododendron is provided only with the arrival of constant frosts.

Low-growing plants can simply be covered with foliage or snow, forming a low snowdrift above the plant.

When to close and open plants?
There is no need to rush here. Shrubs tolerate light frosts well enough (up to -10 degrees).

If the plant is insulated too early, the root collar may begin to heat up, and it will die. You should not be guided by the first snow: sometimes small snowdrifts can cover the ground as early as October, but there are no frosts as such. You just need to shake off the snow.

The optimal period for sheltering a rhododendron is the second decade of November.

In the spring, you should not rush to remove the shelter either. March is too early, although the sun is already warming well. But do not forget that the ground is still frozen and the root system of the plant is still "sleeping": they will not be able to absorb moisture from the soil.

If you open the bushes at this time, then the delicate leaves will die under the rays of the sun, since they will not be able to receive the necessary moisture.

It is necessary to open rhododendrons after complete thawing and partial warming of the soil. It is best to choose a cloudy day.

Rhododendron, which the Greeks called the "rose tree" for beautiful flowers of various shapes and colors, is ornamental shrub (or small tree) of the Heather family with dense glossy leaves and large flowers blooming in spring and early summer.

Loves acidic soil and partial shade, in the open sun can "burn out"... It responds well to abundant watering, especially before wintering.

Azaleas, cultivated in greenhouses and at home, also include rhododendrons. They differ in the number of stamens (in azaleas there are five, in rhododendrons - seven or more) and in the appearance of the underside of the leaves (in azaleas it is smooth, in rhododendrons it is finely scaly).

Why is seasonal protection important for a flower?

Rhododendrons are native to the highlands of the northern hemisphere. Wild shrubs easily tolerate severe frosts that occur at high altitudes.

Reference. However, there are varieties bred by breeders (mostly evergreen) that are not so frost-resistant, and they must be covered for the winter. In addition, they do not tolerate strong winds (and there are often blizzards in winter) and bright winter sun. Young plants that are undergoing acclimatization and are not yet too strong also need shelter.

Do I need to cover in the fall?

Deciduous rhododendrons (Daurian, Japanese, yellow, Canadian), as a rule, do not need to be covered, you can only cover the root collar with mulch. It is imperative to cover evergreens - from snow, and from the wind, and from sunburn. Even if the leaves of this plant can withstand the cold due to their ability to save moisture, flower buds will freeze and the shrub will lose its decorative effect.

Read more about whether you need to cover the rhododendron for the winter.

At what temperature?

Since rhododendrons are initially winter-hardy plants, they are not afraid of slight frosts. You can think of shelter when the temperature is stable - from –10 ° C and below.

Up to this point, you can even harm by covering the bushes from minor cold weather: the root collar will begin to heat up and the plant will die. Abruptly changing weather - either frost or thaw - is also not good for the bushes.

In central Russia rhododendrons usually harbor in mid-November, and judging by last yearswhen winter was late, then at the beginning of December.

The rhododendron bush is lignified, the trunk and branches can break under the weight of the snow. Therefore, the shelter must be strong, lightweight and reliable.

For the construction of the frame, you can use various materials:

corrugated cardboard - suitable for low shrubs under a year old;
plastic arches for greenhouses;
wooden blocks - a solid frame is constructed from them;
metal arcs 6-10 mm thick (insulated cable can be used);
metal fittings;
plywood.

It is best to use as a covering material:

spunbond;
burlap;
garden batting.

Important!You cannot cover the rhododendron with plastic wrap - it creates unbearable conditions for the plant: the accumulation of condensate without ventilation, which is why there is a high risk of developing rot or rot.

It is said about how to cover the rhododendron for the winter and what material to choose.

Do you make a "house" yourself or buy a ready-made one?

If there is no time or opportunity to make the covering structure yourself, you can buy it. Garden stores sell inexpensive pre-made rhododendron sheltersconsisting of a wire frame and a cover made of garden covering batting. They are easy to use: the plant can be quickly covered and quickly closed.

However, according to gardeners, the frames of such structures are not very strong. Therefore, given the time, desire and necessary materials you can make a "house" for the rhododendron yourself.

Nuances for different types of azaleas

All types of azaleas are very sensitive to a lack of moisture, so the shelter protects not only from frost, but also from drying out.

Deciduous azalea - a bush up to one and a half meters high with large flowers of various shades from white to lilac. Before sheltering, you need to bend the branches to the ground and sprinkle with oak leaf litter, peat or soil so that they do not freeze in winter.
Japanese azalea is a dwarf species of rhododendron (30-50 cm) with small flowers (3 cm) in different colors from orange to pink. It can grow at home, and after flowering - and outdoors. Before sheltering, the Japanese azalea should be watered abundantly - before the frost begins, and after a cold snap to –10 ° C, cover it with a spanbond.
Evergreen azalea - bush up to 1 m high, flowers 7 cm in diameter. Adult plant tolerates frosts down to –30 ° C. Only young azaleas need protection, which can be covered with spruce branches.
Katevbin azalea, otherwise called multi-flowered, is one of the most winter-hardy varieties up to 2-3 m high with large (up to 15 cm) leathery leaves and lilac-lilac flowers. Before wintering, treatment with fungicides is recommended. Katevbinskaya azalea is not afraid of severe frosts, so it is sheltered from the wind and sun by making a frame of boards or bars, covered with non-woven material.

Some gardeners believe that all types of azaleas and rhododendrons should be sheltered for the winter - since winters are very cold and windy.

How to close correctly - step by step instructions

Before shelter, be sure to water the bush abundantly at the rootand on the leaves and mulch to a height of 5 to 20 cm (depending on the height) the trunk circle with fallen oak leaves, rotted pine needles and peat.

Reference. For mulch, it is better to take dry oak leaves, as they rot for the longest time.

You will need materials for making the frame:

saw;
screwdriver;
screws;
hacksaw for metal;
jigsaw for cutting plywood.

When using any frame, a covering material will be needed:

twine or special plastic fasteners;
knife or scissors.

Method selection

First way:
1. A frame is made of three boards or bars, fastened in the form of a wigwam. Its height is calculated so that the shelter is at a distance of 15–20 cm from the branches.
2. A ready-made purchase cover (or sewn independently) from a covering material is pulled onto the frame so that the bottom of the cover lies on the ground.
3. The cover is straightened, the part lying on the ground is pressed down with bricks or simply sprinkled with earth so that the shelter is not blown away by the wind.
Second way:
1. A vertical arc frame is erected from plastic arcs (as for a greenhouse) or wire / cable (6–10 mm thick) with a step of 30–35 cm. Along the arcs, the wire is fixed at a distance of 30 cm, so that it looks like a mesh with cells.
2. Covering material is thrown over the frame and fixed from above with the same frame or tied with twine. Can be secured with spunbond plastic fasteners.
3. The bottom of the shelter is also pressed down with bricks or soil.
Such a frame can be installed before the onset of cold weather, leaving one end open for ventilation. When stable frosts are established (below –10 ° C), close both ends.
Third way:
1. The bush is wrapped with a metal or plastic net, or simply inclined supports are placed around it - the height should be greater than the height of the bush itself.
2. Spunbond (lutrasil) is thrown over this mesh (supports), the bush is carefully covered and tied around with twine.
3. The bottom of the shelter is pressed to the ground.
Fourth way:
1. A "stool" is built, the legs of which can be wooden or metal reinforcement, and the roof is made of a piece of plywood.
2. The resulting structure is closed with spunbod or lutrasil.
3. The edges of the material are pressed to the ground.
This method is also suitable for stunted plants.
Fifth way:
1. In a cardboard box (it is better to take corrugated cardboard) make holes for ventilation.
2. The box is placed on a bush.
3. Cover the structure with a covering material, the edges of which are attached to the soil.
Suitable for young, short bushes.
Attention! You cannot put spunbond on a bush without a frame - branches will break under the weight of the snow and flower buds will be crushed. Any frame should not touch the branches, it is better if there is at least 15 cm to them.

If the shelter is too early, the root collar may begin to heat up, and the bush will die, in addition, the leaves will turn black due to condensation.
If the rhododendron is already covered and it is too difficult to disassemble the structure, you can simply open the spunbond on one side for air circulation.
If the “rose tree” is too late, the leaves may curl into a tube. At the same time, they seem to gather into a fist, lowered downward. There is no need to worry, because this is a natural process - twisted leaves save moisture, and "hanging" prevents snow from collecting on them.

When should you shoot?

In the spring, when the warmth comes, you can remove the shelter from the rhododendrons. Not only air, but also the earth should warm up at the time of opening of the bushes, because when the air has already warmed up well, and the ground is still frozen, the leaves begin to evaporate moisture, and the roots cannot yet get it. The plant begins to dry out. To speed up the process of thawing the soil, you need to water the rhododendron.

Reference. You can open rhododendrons only on a cloudy day, since leaves weakened over the winter are afraid of burns from the bright spring sun.

Useful video

More detailed information on how to properly cover the roddendron for the winter is presented in the video:

Conclusion

If you make the right "house" for the rhododendron and cover the bush in time, it will overwinter without problems and in the spring it will delight gardeners with bright beautiful flowers... It is important to know the rules for sheltering rhododendrons and azaleas for the winter and follow them.

Rhododendrons winter well if they have taken root in a new place, the place itself is chosen correctly and the variety or type of rhododendron is suitable for climatic conditions this area.

Before wintering, make sure that the rhododendron is sufficiently protected from the wind.

Sometimes tall perennialsplanted nearby, inspire the gardener with the hope that they will be protection, but by winter they will be gone, and the rhododendron may be "in the seven winds."

Not only evergreens, but also deciduous species react poorly to the withering effect of winter winds - their flower and vegetative buds suffer. In the absence of permanent wind protection (shrubs, building wall), it makes sense to install a temporary one for the winter.

Also dangerous, especially for evergreen species, is the March sun, under which the leaves are forced to evaporate water. At the same time they dry out - “burn”. If in summer your rhododendron is shaded by a deciduous tree or large shrub, then at the end of winter this shading will be significantly weakened, and if it is a tree or bush with a sparse crown, then it is practically reduced to zero. In this case, use a shading mesh or other similar material. It is only necessary that it does not come into contact with the crown of the rhododendron.

With strong snowless frosts, an earthen lump freezes too quickly. That is why so it is useful to mulch the trunk circle in the fall, at the end of September - October. For mulch, both coniferous compost and just pine litter, crushed cones or bark are suitable. The layer of mulching material should be at least 7-8 cm.

If it is dry autumn, then abundant watering of the plants is desirable.

Long standing melt water - another seasonal nuisance to which rhododendrons react painfully. In this case, it is worthwhile to provide in advance the branch grooves so that the roots of the plants do not suffer from the lack of oxygen and there is no danger of podoprevaniya root collar.

Of course, sheltering the bushes with the installation of a frame above them will solve most of the listed problems, but imagine such a shelter for at least one adult one and a half meter bush! Therefore, it is worth immediately picking up a suitable place for the plant where your ward will safely winter with certain preparatory measures, but without shelter.

We add that curled up leaves in evergreen species are the usual state of rhododendron in winter, which in no case should scare you. This is a defensive reaction of the plant, as it reduces the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the leaf, since the roots in the frozen ground cannot compensate for the water consumption. Even when the snow has melted, but the soil has not yet warmed up, the leaves will hang for some time, and only when the soil warms up, the bush will take its usual, "summer" look.

	Rhododendron deciduous There are many ways to use deciduous rhododendron varieties in your garden. They will decorate a tree and shrub mixborder, any composition with conifers, with perennials. Suitable for large rocky gardens, in compositions stylized in Japanese and Chinese motives.
	Rhododendron: pruning Small deciduous species like the Kamchatka rhododendron need rejuvenating pruning every 5-7 years. Large species and varieties (Rh. X knaphii, x mollis, viscosum, сanadensis, flavum, etc.) rejuvenate once ...

author Kiselev P.S., photo Ziborov T.Yu.

Rhododendrons are magnificent ornamental plantsdecorating the garden with abundant flowering in spring and early summer. Proper planting and caring for rhododendrons ensures beauty and longevity.

Breeders have created many flowering hybrids and varieties of rhododendron, but, unfortunately, not all of them are hardy enough. If you are going to buy rhododendrons, first find out about the acclimatization and frost resistance of these seedlings.

In the Moscow region, cold-resistant rhododendrons winter well. Bushes of less winter-hardy rhododendrons should be covered in autumn, when the first stable frosts come, in order to avoid trouble during wintering due to dramatically changing weather and possible severe winter cold weather.
In the conditions of the Moscow region, rhododendrons are usually sheltered in November.

Until the temperature drops to -9 ... -10 degrees of frost and stabilizes, do not place garden plants to winter shelters. Try not to "wrap up" insufficiently frost-resistant plants in winter, especially with dense, caking materials (such as foliage, dense spruce branches).
Built for plants winter shelter should be lightweight but reliable enough.

In the fall, I prepare rhododendrons for wintering in several stages.

First, I warm the bushes from below with peat for the winter, mulching them with planting rhododendrons in the root zone.
As soon as slight frosts begin, I build an arc frame for further shelter of the rhododendrons. While the garden ground is still not frozen, I set high arcs made of strong wire near the rhododendron bushes. For this purpose, you can use wire rod 6-8 mm, insulated cable wire 10 mm.
The size of the arcs installed depends on the size of the covered plants and is calculated so that the branches of the rhododendrons do not touch the shelter, and an air gap is formed between the branches and the shelter. The arches should be located 15-20 cm higher and wider than the rhododendron bushes.The interval between adjacent arcs is about 35-40 cm.
By constructing a winter shelter for rhododendrons in this way, over a garden with plants, I get a wide and long wire frame with a height of 1.2-1.3 m.

When significant cold weather sets in in late autumn, it is time to start covering the rhododendron crown. I do this with the help of lutrasil and film, pulling them over the constructed arcs. I use lutrasil to cover the bushes of rhododendrons in two or three layers (the number of layers depends on the brand of lutrasil used, i.e. on its thickness and density) and a strong, intact film.

You cannot put the shelter directly on the plant itself: when snow piles onto the shelter without a frame, flower buds will be crushed under its weight. In such cramped conditions, the buds will break, and then next year there will be no magnificent flowers on the rhododendron bushes.

In November, when it gets cold in our area around -10 degrees, I stretch thin lutrasil in several layers on arcs over the rhododendrons. And since lutrasil allows moisture to pass through, then I cover it with a film.
After that, from above, I fix the laid covering of the covering material and film on the frame with the same arcs, firmly fixing the shelter in the ground along the length of the frame. From below I sprinkle the lutrasil and sprinkle the film with soil a little so that the wind does not blow into the shelter and additionally ensures the reliability of its fastening.

I immediately close one end of the shelter and reinforce it with two or three bricks or a heavy metal corner.
I leave the second end of the shelter open for now, because the plants have not fallen asleep yet, and in November the temperature will still be above zero.
If all the leaves of deciduous rhododendrons have not fallen off, this indicates that the plants are still awake - therefore, they still need normal gas exchange. Gradually, deciduous rhododendrons prepare for the coming winter and shed the remains of leaves, falling asleep deeply.
When sharp jumps in temperature from minus to plus stops and stable cold weather is established, you can also close the second end of the arc shelter. I carefully align the ends of the lutrasil and the film at the end, tuck it in to avoid the formation of cracks, press the lower part to the ground and securely strengthen it.

With such a frame shelter, frost-resistant plants are not afraid cold winter, underneath the bushes of rhododendrons are protected from breaking branches by snow.

Petr Samsonovich Kiselev (Istra, Moscow region)

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Rhododendron is translated from Greek as "rosewood". These shrubs and trees are an evergreen plant, they have a variety of shapes and colors, and also differ in the size of flowers. The tropics and subtropics are the places where rhododendron mainly grows. Preparing for winter in cooler regions has great importance to preserve this plant.

Types and varieties of rhododendrons

Rhododendron is an amazingly beautiful shrub, this plant belongs to the most winter-hardy are evergreen varieties, these include the Caucasian, Pontic, Ketevba rhododendron. They grow well in the middle lane and tolerate frost well. Also to frost-resistant species should include deciduous rhododendrons. Among them, one can single out such names as Japanese, Kamchatka, dense, yellow and others. In addition, this amazing shrub is also diverse in color of flowers. There are varieties with red, purple, bright blue, pink, orange, yellow and pale white flowers. For the successful development and growth of a plant, you should adhere to the basic rules in caring for it. And the most important thing that a rhododendron requires is preparation for winter. After all, this period is very difficult for the plant, and it will depend on it further development and

How to prepare a rhododendron for winter

The first step in preparing this plant for winter is watering abundantly during the fall season, especially if the ground is very dry. The soil under the rhododendrons should be saturated with moisture in sufficient quantity. But it should be remembered that they take soft water for irrigation, since hard water will negatively affect the plant and may even lead to its death.

How else to protect rhododendron from cold weather? Preparing for the winter involves around the bushes. For mulch, peat, pine needles, sawdust or heather soil are used. The roots of the plant are located closer to the surface, and such a shelter will help it better endure the cold. The higher the plant, the higher the height of the mulch; with the arrival of spring, it is removed or partially left. As for the deciduous species of rhododendrons, there are some peculiarities in preparing for winter. In these species, branches should be bent to the ground and covered. A low evergreen rhododendron for the winter can also be insulated with dry oak leaves or spruce branches. For large plants use burlap or large spruce branches to close from the bright winter and spring sun. Any shelter must have good breathability. After establishing the spring temperature, it is removed.

And most importantly, young rhododendrons should be prepared for the winter season. For the first wintering, the plants are covered with non-woven material (this can be agryl, spunbond) or covered with spruce branches. It is best to make the insulation in the form of a hut, wrapping the covering material around the stakes. In no case should rhododendrons be covered with sawdust and peat, this can lead to podoprevanie and in the future to the death of the plant. The rhododendron is distinguished by its magnificent beauty, preparation for winter will help it survive the cold, and the plant will again delight you with its flowering.

Wintering of rhododendrons in the middle lane. How to properly create a shelter for rhododendrons for the winter? How to cover a rhododendron for the winter