Electric drill for earthwork with your own hands. Homemade from a perforator: a vibrator for concrete and yamobur. DIY drill: other design options

If you've ever tried to dig holes for, for example, fence pegs, then you know how tedious and tedious it is. So I recently had the same need at my dacha. Only the pits had to be made not under the fence, but for the piles, on which the foundation would later rest frame house... According to the project, there should be a lot of these piles; it is simply unrealistic to drill so many holes by hand. Accordingly, I became interested in ways to automate / mechanize the process of soil drilling.

It was immediately discovered that similar tasks had already been set before mankind and, therefore, such cool things as earthmotor drills were invented. Typically, this is a frame with two handles (so it can be held by two people), to which a gasoline engine with a gearbox is attached to increase torque. Rotation from the gearbox shaft is transmitted to a special earth auger, it is also called auger. Such devices are not cheap - from 10 to 100 kilo rubles.

You can also rent a yamobur based on a tractor. This is provided that you can drive up close to the drilling site. There are modifications with a special long manipulator, which is very convenient. Such a hole drill drives up to the desired area, fixes there, and immediately drills a whole bunch of holes within a radius of up to 8 meters. But I liked this option least of all, because I wanted my own soil drill: I wanted to - I woke up at night and went to drill holes!

In general, I was almost going to buy a Hitachi gas drill for my earthworks, but then fate presented me with an amazing surprise in the person of my neighbor, who for no reason at all started talking about his earth electric drill, which he did not know what to do with. The drill is electric earth drill, i.e. this earth auger is powered from the mains. In addition, it has a built-in battery, which, however, does not last long, but nevertheless.

The modern market is saturated with all kinds of construction tools and fixtures. Take, for example, yamobur: today you can easily find a device whose cost is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely suit the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing easier: buy and use. But one should not always rush to such an acquisition. The fact is that budget equipment in practice, it does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or even is not at all capable of performing the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, the engine speed drops from a heavy load, etc.

Buy a powerful and expensive device for a small volume of construction or garden work - not always advisable. Renting is also not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, the craftsmen strive to use the equipment already at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.

Drill earth drill

In most cases, a power drill is a power unit (a powerful drill or a gasoline engine), which is connected to a conventional hand drill using a simple mechanical drive. You can make a drill yourself.

Drill drill with your own hands.

On sale you can find a ready-made drill of serial performance.

skyle FORUMHOUSE user

Many say that they just bought such an auger and fixed it to it a powerful low-speed electric drill.

Engine characteristics

Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. To begin with, the power plant can be connected to the drill both directly and through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a gearbox for himself. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special bed, and during operation it has to be held by hand).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

At first, a reducer was planned, but after field tests with a drill-auger scheme, it was decided to abandon the reducer. The moment is such that she does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).

The power indicator - 2 kW - was taken by us for a reason. It is these drills that are most often used by the participants of our forum in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.

Tri.Dr.E FORUMHOUSE user

There is experience in the construction of a columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a drill with a power of 2 kW and an auger designed for a pit diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of a drill is somewhere equal to 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling, I used an extension made of ordinary steel pipe. The soil in my place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth -1.8 - 1.9 m).

In order to get holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a bed, a winch and other accessories).

But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the presented description it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW is capable of (even without a gearbox).

A bit of theory

If we consider the relationship between the power of the drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, then it is determined by the following relationship:

• N - power (W).
• M - torque (Nm).
• n is the number of revolutions (rpm).
• 9549 is a special coefficient.

Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm - at 300 rpm). But to calculate the torque, it is always necessary to take into account the losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most manufacturers of power tools indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3 ... 1/4 less than the consumed power. Accordingly, the torque is less. A drill with a power of 2 kW at 300 rpm will create a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.

When choosing a power unit for your yamobur, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will have to seriously think about introducing a reduction gear into the design of the drilling rig.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user

Regarding the gearbox: the gearbox is good, because it allows, without changing the power, to proportionally change the number of revolutions and torque. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And the power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).

Focusing on the torque generated by a 2 kW drill (without an additional gearbox), you can choose the right device for your yamobur. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the value of the torque that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the number of revolutions of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user

The optimum speed while drilling is from 60 ... 100 to 200 ... 300 rpm. Mode depends on the type of soil, the method of drilling, the type of drill bits, the diameter of the well, etc.

Drilling methods are mentioned in the above quote. There are all two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant soil removal. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide a high torque.

During drilling with constant soil removal, the auger, drilled into the soil to a certain depth, rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also pulled out.

The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the specified depth. The process is laborious, but does not require large torques.

As we already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, on the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews from FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have proven themselves quite well. The power of gasoline engines must also meet the specified indicator.

Reducers for yamobur and their varieties

The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, devices and assemblies that lay idle for a long time, because they did not find a worthy application for them. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical downshift can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for an old moped, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying around on an old shelf in the garage, etc.

Equipping a drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal drill speed and the fact that it is necessary to ensure sufficient torque on its working shaft.

Mehanik020 FORUMHOUSE user

I had a broken moped lying around, and I took the rear gear from it. Sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back of the aluminum housing with a gearbox), then fixed it through a gear transmission to this gearbox an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with the gearbox gave a ratio of 13: 1 (the output was about 300 rpm).

On the chain drive: having a certain amount of ingenuity, it is possible, without much effort, to build a completely reliable pit drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many people successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

There is no gearbox, although it was planned to manufacture it from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its own sprockets. The gear ratio is 1: 2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Unless it can be used on very hard soils, but we don't have such.

The use of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to the assembly of the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox available (or the opportunity to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. For example, here is a photo of a gearbox posted by user melomandk.

Melomandk FORUMHOUSE user

I found such a reducer. But the gear ratio is large - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (body) - about 15 x15 cm.

As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.

di grizz FORUMHOUSE user

My yamobur is based on just such a gearbox. So far I am very satisfied. The engine is a Bulgarian (3000 output rpm). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I didn’t try to drill clay, but yamobur took hard, rammed earth with inclusions of rubble and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are homemade - from the spring.

Stanina

If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be fixed in a special bed.

The design of self-made beds, as well as of reduction mechanical transmissions, can be very diverse. But there are structural elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.

Lifting mechanism

A chain drive installed inside the B-pillar can be used as a lifting mechanism. Raising and lowering is carried out either using an additional electric motor or using a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). Deeper was not required. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.

In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along the vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.

Another design of the hoist involves the use of a steel cable and a winch with an additional electric motor.

Mehanik020 FORUMHOUSE user

The main electric motor of the drill drives up and down the square tube. It moves at the expense of a winch (which I already had). This winch is needed in order to pull the drill with soil out of the well.

For convenience Mehanik020made a remote control that controls the winch and rotation of the drill during operation.

The drill together with the soil adhered to it can create quite large loads on the winch. At great depths, it will work on the piston principle, creating a vacuum under itself and aggravating the situation when lifting up. Therefore, the more powerful the winch is used, the better.

DmitryEvg FORUMHOUSE user

My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through a chain hoist). Power - 1 kW.

Bottom support for bed

The lower bed support can be equipped with two wheels (for easy movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, then the installation by simply tilting the bed will be transferred from the transport position to the working position.

It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the supporting elements of the bed, which, before starting work, will help to align the drill in accordance with the vertical level.

The materials for the frame are selected for strength reasons. Not everyone can independently perform a complex design calculation, but anyone who wants to can use the experience of the participants of our portal.

So, the user Tri.Dr.Emade a bed from a corner 50 * 50 * 5. The vertical supports and the upper cross bar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.

User jumper_at_home put different metallic profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from steel sheet 10 mm thick.

And here is a photo of the installation that was created by the user PwrWW“From what was” (as he himself says).

PwrWW FORUMHOUSE user

The most difficult thing was to find two straight one-piece three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they were not there, I would have bought shaped tube 80 or 100 mm. At the bottom, I used a piece of channel 80 and a scrap metal corner. I also found 4 u-shaped plates of suitable length among the scrap.

Ideally, the carriage should be constructed in such a way that the operator of the drilling rig can stand on it, if necessary. It is especially important to comply with this condition on hard soils.

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user

This is what was used to protect against turning the drill: a 6 mm steel stop angle screwed to the hole for the handle on the drill body. Everything is bolted with sufficient surface flatness. If you want even more reliable, provide a clamp for the landing groove available on the drill tip.

Mechanical drive

The design of a mechanical drive connecting a drill or other motor to the work shaft earthen drill, is not particularly difficult. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into the drill chuck (Morse taper, etc.) and a cylindrical sleeve, one end is welded to the adapter with a bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the drilled hole between the drill and the drill, you can insert removable elbows made of the same material as the drill rod.

In order to prevent breakdowns when the working body is jammed, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The hairpin is made from a metal bar - 4 ... 8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a pin with a minimum diameter (4 mm).

Almost a pro FORUMHOUSE user

Imagine if your drill bumped into a stone and jammed. I have a 4 mm nail as a shear pin, and it has never been cut off. But, if an obstacle is encountered, then he does not give up sickly in his hands.

Homemade drill

As we have already said, the working body of the installation (drill) can be purchased in a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, is a homemade drill with removable blades.

To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of a suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made from a thick metal sheet (6 ... 10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Art. 65G). If you need a small diameter garden hole, you can use ordinary truck springs.

Circular saw blades can be used to make blades.

The drill bit should be 5 mm larger than the hole to be drilled.

We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.

Dropping the top handle, we get exactly what we need.

The design of a homemade drill must meet the following parameters:

• The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25 ° to 30 °.
• The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45 °… 60 °.
• It is advisable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, thanks to which the installation will be easier to enter into dense soil.

how garden drill fix in the drill.

During pouring concrete mortar each layer is compacted. This is done manually by punching the layered mixture with rods from different materials (metal, wood). All work can be done much faster using special devices - vibrators. But a factory-made vibratory plate purchased for home use is not always an economically viable option because it is expensive. It makes no sense to work it several times, and then leave it to just lie. In this case, you can make a vibrator for concrete from a perforator with your own hands. Homemade products will speed up the compaction process and improve the quality of work.

To put the project into practice, you will need the following materials and tools:

• metal (steel) plate of the required dimensions, with a thickness of 50 to 70 mm;
• an iron rod or reinforcement (rectangular or circular) of such a length that you can reach the bottom of the exposed formwork when pouring concrete;
• puncher;
• an old drill or a lance, a shovel, a chisel, even a crown;
• grinder with discs for metal;
• welding machine with electrodes;
• ruler or tape measure;
• marker.

The minimum power of the hammer drill should be 1.5 kW - only such a tool will provide the required performance without overheating.

One side of the rod with a cross section of 15-20 mm is processed so that it can be inserted into a perforating chuck. A stainless steel plate is welded to the second side. This requires special electrodes.

It is better that the rod is also made of of stainless steel... Concrete is a corrosive medium. Common metal is heavily affected by chemical substances, and also wears out mechanically faster.

The manufacturing sequence for the compaction head is as follows:

• a rectangle of the required dimensions is cut off with a grinder from a steel sheet, and a piece of the required length is cut from a round or rectangular bar;
• weld the plate to either end of the rod;

• cut off the drill seat with a small margin;

• weld it to the rod.

If you do not use an old drill, then you will need to make a special adapter for the perforating chuck, or use machine tools to carve a seat on the free end of the rod. It is easiest to use a drill of the correct length right away. On the basis of the perforator, more complex devices can be made, for example, with a flexible shaft, which will additionally mix the working solution.

Homemade concrete rammer small size (the simplest manufacturing option) is presented in the video.

Owners of summer cottages or private houses are often faced with the need to dig holes for fence posts or pile supports. For drilling the earth is used as hand tool, and equipped with an electric or fuel drive (for example, gasoline). In the first case, the work will take a longer time, and will also require more labor costs. Buying or renting powerful devices is not cheap, so craftsmen have figured out how to make a homemade hole drill from a puncher.

But homemade devices, in comparison with factory counterparts, have following cons:

• they can only drill relatively shallow holes of small diameter;
• they are not suitable for work on hard ground.

Structurally homemade gadgets consist of three parts:

• puncher;
• conventional earth auger;
• adapter or reducer.

The last 2 parts of the device can be made by hand. Sold even special nozzle (auger) for drilling, which is attached to a powerful hammer drill or drill. A working tool made in this way is shown in the photo below.

An important point is the amount of power and the number of revolutions of the rock drill, which will be used in conjunction with the drilling attachment. Optimal value the first parameter for a manual model of a homemade yamobur is 2 kW. It should be borne in mind that, depending on the number of revolutions, the drill can be connected directly to the hammer chuck or through a gearbox. For 2 kW models, the latter is not needed.

Optimum for drilling is considered to be the number of revolutions of the working nozzle from 60 to 300 per minute. This value depends on the properties of the soil at the site.

Drilling is performed in two ways:

• continuous;
• with periodic extraction of soil.

In the first case, you need a more powerful tool (with more torque).

Algorithm for making a homemade drill

To make a hole drill with your own hands, you will need, in addition to a perforator, such tools and materials:

• angle grinder;
• a welding machine with a brand of electrodes corresponding to the used metal;
• electric drill;
• unnecessary perforating drill;
• metal fittings or a rod for making a rod;
• material for the cutting part;
• cable and sockets to make the simplest extension cord.

The work of converting a hammer drill into a device that can be used to drill holes in the ground is directly in creating a nozzle... All work is performed in the following sequence:

• a piece of the required length is cut off from a rod or tube using a grinder (about a meter is enough if the power of the tool is 2 kW);
• knives are attached to the lower end (connection methods and design features of the cutting part are discussed below);
• cut off from the drill its base, designed to install this nozzle in the perforating chuck;
• weld the cut piece to the tube.

The simplest version is ready to use. If you do not use a base from an old perforating drill, then you will need to grind a seat from the rod for the tool holder or for the adapter used.

In addition to the manual model, you can make similar to a stationary drilling rig, possible variant which is shown in the photo below.

To provide power to a homemade yamobur, you will need to purchase or make an extension cord yourself.

The work of the created device is shown in the video.

Cutting part manufacturing

Used as knives:

• discs from circular saws suitable diameter;
• ready-made augers from factory motor-drills or agricultural machinery;
• a metal sheet from which circles of the required diameter are cut, sharpening and bending them as needed.

The cutting part can be made removable (bolted) or non-removable (welded to the rod).Both options are shown in the photos below.

Cutting part designmust meet the following parameters:

• be of a larger diameter (5 mm enough) than this parameter for the holes being created;
• it is necessary that the angle between the blades is 25-30 degrees;
• the front (cutting) part of the knives should be sharpened at an angle of 45 ° -60 °.

It is advisable to make the tip of the drill from a drill intended for drilling metal, so that the tool can more easily enter the ground mass.

At its core, reworking a hammer drill into a vibrator or an earth auger consists in making a nozzle corresponding in functionality and size. Difficulties can arise only if you independently prepare a seat for a cartridge or adapter on the rods. In general, the manufacture of the considered options does not require much time and effort.

If, when carrying out earthworks on the site, you need to dig several holes-wells for poles or posts, then the garden drill of the Fiskars Quikdrill model will help to significantly speed up this process.

Electric manual auger auger auger Bison, Tornado or Fiskars, can greatly facilitate the whole process of earthwork. In addition, the Fiskars Quikdrill garden drill can drill holes in soil as deep as 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm.

The electric manual auger auger Bison, Tornado or Fiskars can form a hole in the soil for trees and shrubs.

1 Purpose and characteristics

Drilling operations are currently underway everywhere due to the ongoing and developing suburban construction... In most cases, such units as an earth auger hole auger Bison, Tornado or Fiskars are used in drilling operations in summer cottages and suburban areas.

It is worth noting that the Fiskars Quikdrill garden drill and its analogues such as the Bison, Tornado and Fiskars are able to create holes in the ground for:

• Installation of fence posts;
• Pile mounts;
• Bookmarks pile foundation with a depth of 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm;
• Creation of shallow trenches and technical holes;
• Planting shrubs, seedlings and small trees.

Self-made auger auger is presented in the form electrical device, which belongs to the category of tools for cutting.

Such common units as Bison, Tornado and Fiskars have excellent feedback from users, and are capable of making holes with depths of 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm in materials such as:

• A rock;
• Concrete;
• Brick;
• Pebbled soil.

Structurally, a hand-made earthen auger home-made hole auger is similar to a conventional drill equipped with a shank and a spiral. Due to the presence of such a spiral, such units as Zubr, Tornado and Fiskars are able not only to create holes with a depth of 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm, but also to remove waste material from the drilling zone.

Earthen manual auger auger is made of materials with excellent strength characteristics. Its cutting part is made using an alloy with a high degree of hardness.

The presented manual auger drill Tornado, Zubr, Fiskars, and similar analogs, have several configurations for sharpening the cutting edge.

A distinctive feature of such portable devices as the Tornado, Zubr or Fiskars hand-held yamobur is the presence of an electric motor equipped with two convenient handles.

The electric motor is equipped with a special clamping mechanism in order to fix the drilling tool - auger. The auger in such units as the manual pit auger Tornado, Bison or Fiskars is presented in the form of a rod with a solid helical surface along the entire longitudinal axis.

2 What are the features of an electric garden drill?

The electric drill is presented in the form of an electric downhole machine, which is equipped with an electric motor, which is mounted in the tube body of the device.

The body ensures the movement of the bit drive during work. A well created with such a unit can serve for a long time.

Most of the reviews on the presented unit are good. All modern products are equipped with an asynchronous oil-filled motor equipped with a squirrel-cage rotor.

Thus, the main parts of an electric drill are an asynchronous oil-filled motor and a spindle, which is located on rolling bearings.

Inside the tubular body there is a package of magnetic conductive steel of the stator mechanism. This compartment is separated by non-magnetic conductive steel packs where the rotor radial ball bearings are located.

All rotor packages are covered with a layer of aluminum winding and are included in the hollow rotary shaft of the motor. The inside of the engine cavity is filled with a special type of dry insulating oil.

In addition, the internal cavity of the engine is hermetically sealed with upper and lower oil seals. When the system starts up, the seals are filled with oil.

In order to compensate for oil leaks and to maintain constant internal pressure in the engine, so-called lubricators and three oil seals are located in the upper part of it.

Each of the glands is equipped with a cable gland, which is fed from the edge of the contact rod and, passing through the glands, is connected to the stator winding.

In order for the weight of the rotating shaft to be borne by the entire mechanism, its lower part is equipped with an installed thrust ball bearing.

A spindle is attached to the lower motor cover. It is equipped with a multi-row axial support, which moves thanks to the presence of ball bearings.

Another shaft moves in the housing, which is hollow inside, and its alignment is carried out with the participation of a number of ball bearings. There is a connection between the spindle shaft and the main shaft of the motor.

It is realized with a tooth-shaped coupling. There is an articulated seal where the shafts are connected.

It provides a high degree of waterproofing against the ingress of flushing working fluid. All axial loads to which the rock cutting percussion tool (auger) is subjected are completely absorbed by the spindle housing and are not transmitted to the motor shaft.

All types of asynchronous motors used in electric drills have a fairly limited operating speed range.

The change in this parameter directly depends on the speed with which the rotor is able to slide in relation to the stator field. Thus, the value of the motor torque is directly related to the square of the input voltage.

When the voltage is reduced, a significant reduction in torque occurs. Based on this, the voltage drop during short-term types of loads must be compensated for by increasing the voltage at the input to the motor by 10-15% of the nominal level.

Depending on the characteristics and type of the motor, the voltage at the terminals of the electric drill can be from 1000 to 1200 V. At the moment when the motor starts, a significant reduction in torque is observed - this is the so-called dip zone.

This parameter is then restored after the unit reaches normal operating temp. Due to the fact that the engine is started with an orientation towards a low degree of load, the flywheel moment of all parts involved in rotation is very small.

However, even if the torque is greatly reduced, the engine is able to accelerate the speed of the working shaft in a matter of seconds.

By the way, the efficiency of such a motor, when testing the rated load, can be about 70%. This is due to the low level of mechanical losses during the movement of the spindle at fixed support points.

Electricity is supplied to the drilling motor using a sectioned cable. It is located in the inner bore of the drill string.

The current is supplied using a three- or two-wire cable. A drill string can be used instead of the third wire.

It should be borne in mind that the cabling of the electric garden drill is generally considered to be one of the weakest points of the presented system.

The voltage may drop due to the broken tightness of the cable sections and their further contamination. Disturbances in the operation of the electrical circuit are observed when contacts made with the use of copper break, in those places where they are connected to the coupling.

It should be noted that a portable hand-held garden drill has a number of advantages, which are expressed in:

• Facilitation of conditions during the operation of the drill string;
• Reduced wellbore wear;
• Minimizing idle power costs.

In addition, the operating mode of the unit does not in any way come into contact with the liquid flow rate for. Therefore, the device is most effective when the hole in the ground is completely cleaned of the sludge accumulated there.

In addition, the operating cycle of the device does not depend on the quality and characteristics of the mud used for drilling. This property implies the use of the product in the work with weighted solutions.

The communication channel for control over the work performed by the unit is presented in the form of a conductor. This allows in some modifications of the device to remotely carry out drilling operations.

Due to the fact that the manual electric drill is presented in the form of an oil-filled engine, all its parts operate in an environment that is isolated from the ingress of sludge.

Based on this, the rotary elements of the auger are least susceptible to harmful corrosive and abrasive processes.

Among the disadvantages of such a device, one can single out a rather high cost compared to mechanical counterparts. Probability of damage and distortions when stuck in the wellbore and low reliability of the cable connection.

Sergey, 45 years old, Samara:

I decided to equip my summer cottage household plot and put up a mesh fence. In order to make small holes for digging in the posts, I used a hand-held electric drill, which I borrowed from a neighbor.

He completed all the work in the shortest possible time, while not spending much effort. An excellent unit. I read the reviews - now many people on the farm have one, so I decided to buy it myself. I advise everyone!

Vladimir, 53 years old, Voronezh: