We build a bath from just about anything. Do-it-yourself bath construction: type selection, features, equipment. Shed roof for a budget bath

Hello, dear site visitors! We continue the cycle of articles from our readers In this article, the author shares personal experience on the construction of a log bath with your own hands. Construction is not finished yet, so we wish him every success! If you have any recommendations and questions for the author, you are welcome in the comments.

Part 1. Foundation

For the construction of the bath, I chose a relatively flat area with a slope of 20 cm on a six-meter section. First of all, after preliminary marking, I cut the fertile layer over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe future foundation. This is required to exclude the processes of decay of plant residues and other organic matter in the basement.

The site is dominated by sandy soil, so the best option would be 50 cm high from the base and 40 cm wide. The contour of the foundation is marked with ropes that are attached to the improvised corners of the inner and outer perimeter. To mark the perimeter, I took scraps of boards about 70 cm long and drove them into the ground, from above I screwed horizontal shelves with protruding screws for fastening the rope with self-tapping screws. It is better to choose a rope that is not prone to stretching, it will be easier to work with this.

In addition to the lengths of the sides of the future foundation, the diagonals between the corners must be verified, which must be equal to each other with a tolerance of plus / minus 3-4 cm. You can read more about how to mark the foundation in this article. Continue to remove the fertile layer and dig a trench to create a sand cushion.

As a result, we get a completely prepared "foundation pit", where the bottom of the trenches is almost horizontal (we check it with a building level). The depth of the trenches is 20 cm, from the soil level at the highest point of the site 40 cm, in the lowest - 30 cm.

The dimensions of the foundation are determined by the center of the intersection of the logs. This will be the centerline. If the diameter of the logs is about 20-22 cm, then we retreat to both sides of the center line by 15-20 cm, respectively. This will be required to obtain the "shelves" for fixing the floor lags and rain tides. In addition, an error is practically excluded when the logs, due to miscalculations of the foundation, fall outward or inward, "hovering" in the air.

The bath is connected to the strip foundation in order to exclude multidirectional shifts of the bath and the stove. The size of the furnace platform was chosen 120 * 120 cm, as the average for the installation of metal furnaces under brick lining.

We begin laying sand in the trenches. At the same time, we moisten the sand and tamp it. Pour water until puddles appear, after the moisture is absorbed, we begin to ram. The process is repeated 3-4 times until your shoes leave marks on the compacted sand surface.

A day later, after the end of the work, we once again go through the entire base under the foundation with a rammer. Of course, you can use a simpler option and connect a rammer to work, this will not speed up the process much. I have the simplest option: a 100 mm bar, a 20x20 mm sole and a handle. Appearance the finished base and manual ramming is shown below.

On top of the prepared site, under the foundation, we pour a sand cushion to level the horizon and raise the site above the level of the site in order to prevent water from getting under the foundation.

If you hire a concrete truck, then take care of additional reinforcement of the formwork with diagonal stops outside and inside the intended foundation. The pressure that is created when the mixture is supplied is capable of demolishing an insufficiently strong structure. The same applies to pouring the mixture from a concrete mixer. Only in this case, you need to strengthen the place where you will drain, or simply move the concrete mixer around the perimeter.

It is better to pour the entire volume of concrete in one go, so as not to get the effect of a layered cake. Cover the top of the foundation with a film that keeps our foundation wet in order to avoid cracks in the concrete. We periodically water the foundation with water, preventing it from drying out.

After 7-10 days, we remove the formwork by unscrewing the self-tapping screws, which will also go into operation during the subsequent stages. The finished foundation looks like this. Layout: 2x6 meters - veranda; 4x4 meters - recreation room; 2x2 meters - washroom; 2x2 meters - steam room. The location of the ventilation holes is approximately 20 cm from the soil level, if necessary, you can buy plugs to close the holes in the winter.

The approximate amount and price of materials used in the construction of the foundation are shown in the table below.

Part 2. Installation of log house and roof

To bandage a 6x4 meter log house and a chopped veranda, you will need 25 bags of moss. When purchasing, make sure that the weight of the compacted moss bag is approximately 20 kg. The moss must be elastic, that is, it must have optimal moisture.

We use "cuckoo flax", which we collect in late autumn, when all living creatures leave for "wintering" in the soil and there is no risk of grabbing a snake with a bunch of moss. A small amount of sphagnum moss is allowed, which is shorter and crumbles when dry. If only sphagnum is fully used, then after a while it will simply fall out of the grooves.

The length of the strand of moss should be at least 30 cm so that when caulking it is possible to curl the ends and ensure the sealing of the grooves. When drying, we sort the material, choosing twigs, extraneous plants and cones from it. By the way, if the lump falls into the groove, then at a certain humidity it opens with such an effort, which is enough to lift the log and make a "cold bridge". This is how the installers of the log house did in the old days, and even now this situation is not rare if the owner "offends" money.

We install rolling logs. I have a small gap between the foundation and the log house, so I used half a log on one side and a 100 mm bar on the other.

We pierce the place of contact of the log with the roofing material with moss.

Errors were revealed that resulted in the reluctance of the cutters to do their job efficiently. The slots were cut with a chainsaw, which made the gaps in the logs very large. Look, the edges of the grooves fit tightly to the body of the log, but in fact there is a void inside. Because of this, the amount of moss that will go to caulk increases greatly. And if you do the caulking yourself, and the "shabashniki" will only do the outer processing, no one will punch the insides.

Material	Volume / quantity	Price
Edged fence board "inch" for crate, 300 mm	1 m 3	4500 rubles
Self-tapping screws for wood 50 mm	2 Kg	300 rubles
Moss	25 bags	6250 rubles
Log house	1 piece	72,000 rubles
Board 50 * 150 six meters	14 pieces	3600 rubles
Metal tile, thickness 0.5 mm, length 4.2 meters (optional ridge and windscreen)	12 sheets	31,000 rubles
Steam - Wind insulation	1 roll	800 rubles
Grooved board 20 mm	1 m 3	8500 rubles
"Belinka" base	2.5 liters	400 rubles
"Belinka" glazing composition	2.5 liters	600 rubles
Total:		127,950 rubles

Part 3. Log caulking

The most simple, but tedious job of caulking a log house. We use a mallet, iron and wood caulk. Iron with a blade thickness of 3 mm and a width of 50 mm, wooden is made of hard wood (I have dry birch) and is a consumable.

Initial view of the groove.

We fill the moss into the groove with a construction trowel. Previously used a spatula, but it quickly broke down and was not as elastic. Feel free to hammer in the groove completely. There is an opinion among the inhabitants that there is no need to make the seams tight and uniform, they say, the temperature in the bath is enough to compensate for the losses. But judge for yourself, drafts in the steam room and washing room will not add comfort and the consumption of firewood will be 2-3 times higher.

We hammer the resulting roller with a wooden caulk.

If necessary, if the groove is not tight enough, we make another roller of moss and punch it until, upon impact with an iron caulk, we feel the hardness of the wood.

The final look of the buried groove.

To prevent the birds from dragging the moss and for aesthetics, we close the groove with a jute tape 100 mm wide, which will subsequently be treated with an impregnation and glazing compound to match the color of the log. Special "craftsmen" put logs only on one jute or flax, but this is unacceptable for a bath. If we have constant humidity in the house, then steam generation is welcome in the bath. Linen and jute absorb moisture, but do not dry out for a long time, the grooves rot and mold.

We receive logs prepared for grinding.

We caulk the corners especially carefully in order to exclude the ingress of cold air into the bathhouse. The work, if you do not hire specialists, will cost you nothing. With the involvement of "shabashniki" - from 70 to 150 rubles per running meter.

Part 4. Grinding logs

So, the caulking is completed, the moss is tucked in and compacted in the grooves, we are starting to prepare the log house for painting. Currently, the logs look very unpresentable - traces from a planer, chips and pulled out chips. In addition, the logs are strongly "tanned" in the sun and under the influence of slanting rains, and some of the knots require picking and sealing with mastic.

The ends of the logs, which were damaged during storage and transportation, also require processing. Here is the most loose wood, respectively, there is a high probability of decay and further destruction of the log.

Log polishing tools:

bulgarian;
flap emery wheel;
soft brush from the mop;
putty knife.

The grinder was used the cheapest - 1200 rubles, made in China. It is worth noting that it withstood all the tests with honor and remained operational even after passing 70 square meters of walls (we add to this the semicircular profile of the log). The only inconvenience is cleaning the stator, rotor and the inside of the grinder from wood dust. Of course, you can put a stocking on the instrument, but the incoming air for cooling is not enough. By the way, the work is very dusty and immediately stock up on glasses, closed on all sides, and respiratory protection - a respirator is enough. Working with a grinder requires utmost attention. High revs and the removed protection casing can play a cruel joke with you. One has only to lose vigilance, intercept too quickly to the grinding wheel, and you are guaranteed injury. I walked twice over the same place on my hand - the glove to shreds and the skin torn to meat.

The grinding wheel was used with grain 80. By testing and selection, I stopped at this value - grain 60 leaves too noticeable traces, and grain 100 clogs up very quickly. The approximate consumption of petal circles is 1 piece per 3 square meters. You can use the circle further, but the pace of work slows down and you just get tired.

Attention, bonus! I accidentally found out that if you walk around the concrete of the foundation with a circle clogged with dust and resin, then the sandpaper is cleaned and the circle is again ready for work.

If you do not have the skill and when working with great care, you can sand 6-10 squares of the wall in a day. The rates of "shabashniks" fluctuate between 400-500 rubles per square meter, and plus they do not stand on ceremony with expenditure circles. Pay attention to the resin pockets. If you expose such an area, then treat it with a solvent, otherwise this resin will then come out even through a layer of paint.

I started working from the smallest wall, the logs are changing before our eyes. Faced the problem that when machining grooves, the edge of the grinding wheel leaves cuts on the lower log. But with further processing, the cuts are well grinded, and no traces remain.

Especially a lot of fiddling with corners, the high speed of the grinder and tightness slow down the process. Where the circle does not reach, you will have to switch to a slower method of processing - a chisel.

When the grinding wheel has practically "sat down", we pass the ends of the logs. Using a new circle for the ends is irrational - you will have to throw it out after a dozen logs.

We seal the ends with mastic on wood. At first I used the color "pine", but then I realized that it was more economical to use white, since it will be painted under it.

After polishing, an interesting structure of the wood appears, intricate patterns run throughout the log. Knots and irregularities in the log add log bath a certain fundamentality, and I was even glad when I met especially knotty specimens.

To understand what the wall would look like after painting, I stopped and prepared the logs. For all the cumulative criteria (quality and price) I chose the composition under the Belinka brand. Pre-treated with Base, the drying time of which is 24 hours, and passed over the polished surface with the first layer of glazing composition No. 24 (rosewood). Agree, enchanting beauty! If you want to get a smooth surface to the touch, then after the first layer of the composition and its drying, go over the log by hand with a "zero" sandpaper. This is true on the railings and on the front of the bath, where guests love to hold their hand along the wall and appreciate the work of the master.

The drying time of the first layer is 12 hours, for fidelity I withstood the day and covered it with a second layer. A dark noble matte sheen appeared. Another trick is that after using the glazing composition, a little pigment remains at the bottom of the can. We dilute it with a solvent to a very pale appearance and go over the second layer of the dried coating. The procedure can be done at any time after coating. As a result, we get a surface that resembles an additionally waxed log. Very pretty.

Along the way, I processed the ends with a glazing compound No. 11 (white), which favorably sets off the work already done.

The result completely satisfied me, we continue the started grinding. Since you will do all the work yourself, the quality will be at the highest level. If the hired workers can ignore the flaws, then the foreman himself will torment himself even for the smallest oversight. For example, knowing that somewhere at the bottom of a log I missed a drink, like a criminal returning to the scene of a crime, I looked over and over again his "joint". Until he fixed it.

The log house is becoming more and more beautiful. Do not forget to clean the logs from dust with a brush after work.

The next photo shows the logs processed by the Base, and the ends, sealed with white mastic.

Having appreciated the color and texture of the painted logs, I realized that inside the veranda it would look a little darkish, and I conducted an experiment on coloring the logs with composition # 11 (white).

White paint preserves the texture of the polished log, and I decided on full painting verandas. A slight yellowness of the pine appears through the first layer, and there is no shine. Much like just bleached wood. But the second layer works wonders. There is shine and a certain completeness. By the way, buy "Belinka Lazur", as the white "Belinka Top Lazur" is intended for window frames and is much more expensive.

Now the bathhouse, with the exception of one wall, is covered in one layer and looks like a house with a negative Khokhloma painting. The upper transverse beam pleases - it is a knotty Christmas tree, which gives the structure an appearance of conformity to the natural style.

We continue the construction of the bathhouse and proceed to the stage of laying the floors on the veranda. There is a roof over the room, but the absence of a pediment (for the airiness of the structure) does not prevent the falling of oblique rain drops. In winter, snow blowing and its subsequent thawing in the thaw are not excluded. Therefore, we will pay special attention to the preservation of boards and logs, as well as imparting water-repellent properties to the floor surface along with a good appearance.

Part 5. The floor of the veranda

Planks 50 * 150 placed on the edge will serve as lags. According to the universal formula, the thickness of the board is multiplied by a factor of 20, and we get the step between the lags in my case, 1000 mm. But I decided to slightly strengthen the structure and placed the logs with a step of 600 mm. It turned out like this.

On the veranda (conventionally 2 meters by 6 meters) I bought 16 six-meter boards, taking into account the lag and a margin of one board. It cost me 4300 rubles and 500 rubles delivery. Some boards have developed blue and mildew, which can be easily removed by sanding and bleaching. Worst of all, a few of the planks are affected by the woodworm beetle. Its larvae made several through holes, which I then sealed with mastic. Upon examination, I did not find any more living creatures and calmed down on that - after drying, the wood attracts them little, and treatment with an antiseptic and biocide will discourage the beetle from any desire to approach my veranda. I laid a vapor-permeable film on the ground inside the foundation, so that no plant could get a chance to germinate inside the veranda. I marked and sawed the boards according to their location.

Then I removed the boards, numbered them according to their location, and started processing the logs. Used a vigorous antiseptic produced in Yaroslavl. I am a little familiar with the preparation of antiseptics and the composition of the purchased products inspired me with confidence. Wood preservation is declared at 45 years, subject to impregnation technology. It is required to use 500 grams of mortar per square meter, i.e. apply the first layer, and after 1-2 hours the second. Antiseptic is yellow, so the coating is clearly visible. When dry, it becomes dark brown.

Next came the turn of processing the boards. Previously, on the surface located below and on the sides of the boards, I passed a petal emery wheel fixed to the grinder to remove the pile. This way we ensure better absorption of the antiseptic. Then we grind the front surface with a circle with a grain of 100. I also used my long-suffering grinder of the lower price category. If you are afraid to make potholes and holes, then try to grind part of the board with a hammered wheel to gain a little experience. Remember to chamfer the edges of the board.

Attention, bonus! To keep the floor surface perfect to the touch and pleasant to the feet, walk the sanded board with a mild soapy solution. Apply with brush or roller. When dry, the raised residual pile will become hard and it is easy to knock it off with a sandpaper even in manual operation.

We lay the boards on logs with a gap of 4 mm. As a "reference" we take an ordinary nail, which we place vertically between the boards.

Since my boards have natural moisture, they may be somewhat drier, that is, the probability of warping during the drying process. That is why I decided to use screw nails instead of self-tapping screws for fastening. Self-tapping screws are weaker fasteners for lateral loads and can simply burst. Cover the nail head with mastic on wood so that there is no rust and spreading it onto the boards.

See the nail? And he is here!

In the process of laying the boards, I start processing them. I had the choice of using Alpina outdoor terrace oil or Belinka glazing compound as a coating. I liked the second option better. Firstly, that the oil that Base Belinka penetrates deeply into the tree and protect it from moisture. Secondly, oil tinting and Belinka №24 are almost similar. Third, the oil and glazing compound, which does not have high abrasion resistance, should be renewed every two years. And fourthly, Belinka is cheaper. A large flow of visitors is not planned on the veranda and the maximum load is walking in slippers or barefoot.

After the first layer of the Base has dried (24 hours), apply the second layer and give it another day to dry. And the climax comes - coating with a glazing composition Belinka No. 24. If you want more effect and shine on the floor, then get Top Lazur.

–––––– Six months have passed ––––––

Since my last story, the past has been quite a long time, and the construction of the bathhouse has gradually moved forward. Little by little, because you have to do everything yourself. I don't trust shabashniki. I contacted them twice (assembling a log house and installing a roof) and I am very dissatisfied with the result.

I looked at the bath from the side and decided that another pediment was needed to protect the veranda space from rain. He put the lining in different directions, leaving something like a window. There will be a stained glass window - polycarbonate with a pattern applied with special stained glass paints.

The fit of the boards to the pediment turned out to be quite tight, so I can do without an additional plinth and leave it as it is.

The pediment is painted the same color as the bathhouse, a side board is installed with a claim to carving. The cost of the work was: lining - 2500 rubles; self-tapping screws - 200 rubles; paint - 200 rubles; wind carved board - 800 rubles. I think that it is quite inexpensive for such a result.

Last year I didn’t have time to paint the roof lining, I only covered it with a base, the temperature began to be below zero. Just the other day, choosing a period without rains, I walked with two layers of white "Belinka". I liked the result, but I think to fix it with a third layer.

So, new season construction of the bathhouse opened. In the fall, I managed to capture several fine days with a positive temperature, which finally allowed me to make a window and a door. Opening preparation technology is standard. We mark and cut out with the formation of a thorn on the log. I used a 100 * 200 bar for the window opening, and a 100 * 250 bar for the door window. At the sawmill, they met me halfway and made two six-meter blanks for a special order. They took quite ridiculous money - about 2500 rubles with delivery.

On the spot, the timber was sawn into the required segments. The window opening turned out to be clean 50 * 50 centimeters, the door clean 70 * 160. So we are really implementing the old commandment - bow to the bathhouse when you enter. The upper level of the threshold will be 15 centimeters from the floor to keep warm in winter. I cut a groove on the beam to fit a thorn on the log, plus a centimeter in width in each direction. On a thorn I fixed a roll of insulation 20 centimeters wide, it seems flax, I no longer remember what I bought. The vertical bar went tight, and horizontal segments were used as spacers. The gap from the upper window to the log is about 3 cm, filled with moss. There is also moss under the threshold and the window sill, which, after installing all the components, was compacted to the state of almost a log.

On the window, a quarter is chosen for the convenience of installing plastic. Spacers are installed in the door, since deformation is possible during the natural drying of the timber.

What is planned. Plastic window with imitation of division into smaller windows. The photo shows my hooliganism, so to speak - instead of a window, I inserted polystyrene and made a marking of the future product with an insulating tape.

The door is metal with insulation along the canvas and jambs. In the company where the doors are made, the director is a good friend of mine, we discussed all the details and, I hope, we will get a good product. By door leaf there will be a wooden plate 1.5 centimeters thick. I will age the wood on the overlay, make an imitation of forged hinges and wooden crossbars. But this is in the future, and now he is engaged in the improvement of the veranda.

We have one master who makes tables and benches of fairly good quality and quite inexpensive. This headset cost me only 7.5 thousand rubles. By tradition, I covered it with Belinka base, "Rosewood" glaze and deck varnish from the same company.

Somewhere on the hundredth or two hundredth jump from the veranda level, I realized that I needed a porch. The plans were to make some kind of forged product with wooden steps, but for now I decided to confine myself to a temporary hut. Although the temporary house turned out to be quite nice and will still serve me until I get bored. On the sidewalls I used the logs that remained from sawing openings, on the steps a board 50 * 150. On the base he laid stones from a nearby quarry.

And now about the essentials. First, I carry out the caulking inside the log house. The logs have already settled in place. What is possible - dried up, what is needed - led, what wanted - sat down to its permanent place. Accordingly, they appeared inside the cracks, which require careful sealing.

An external examination confirmed the good quality of the caulk. Nothing fell out, the birds didn’t misbehave, and the moss lay as planned. When sawing openings, the moss was packed into one dense and solid strip, it was even difficult to make out, but it was good to knock out the cracks with such strips. Made another caulk from birch. The scapula turned out to be wider and larger, a sledgehammer of two kilograms fit perfectly to it. Moss flies into the cracks with a whistle, and where the log is laid down too tightly I use birch wedges. The process is long, but obligatory, if you don't want to bathe in felt boots in winter. Secondly, he audited the foundation. There are light chips on the outside, but these sags during pouring and do not affect the quality. Nevertheless, if I have free time, I will plaster and cover with facade paint. The manufacturer and color have not yet been chosen. Last year I installed low tides, which showed themselves well even with a serious snow load. And, thirdly, I will count on snow holders. When last year a crust formed on the roof after a freezing rain, and 50-60 centimeters of snow fell on it, there was a good surprise in the form of a huge dense snowdrift near the bathhouse after the first thaw.

Well, I'll tell you what I do to keep my bath warm and dry. A month ago I bought a metal stove from the Izistim company for 58,000 rubles. I chose for a long time, tediously, read all the reviews and realized that this is what I need. Its parameters can be found on the official website of the company, where a detailed description is given. While the stove is on the street in front of the bathhouse, 130 kg of metal still needs to figure out how to carefully drag it in, especially since I still have no floors and 600 bricks are stacked on the ground. It turned out that these ovens are being made literally at my side, respectively, I had the honor to communicate directly with the manufacturers, who really helped with advice and recommendations. The pipe is planned to stand next to a stainless sleeve. The construction will be about 5 meters. I ordered a stainless steel pipe with a wall thickness of 1 mm in the same place, in the Izistim company. Literally a week later I received an order. Laser welding, high quality and reasonable price. In terms of money, the pleasure was 11,500 full-weight rubles for a set of pipes of 5 meters. CRAFT firm.

The complete set includes a tee, a plug for cleaning the pipe from soot and removing condensate and the type of adapters with a platform that will rigidly fix the chimney in a brick pipe. The design on the right in the photo is a horizontal section of the pipe from the stove to the chimney. Heat-resistant stainless steel 4 mm thick, made in EasyStim for 4300 rubles.

I bought a 150 grade Kostroma clay brick, which is enough for lining the furnace. The geometry of the brick is normal, if necessary, you can round the edges to give the products a more interesting shape. If you want a more beautiful brick, then buy Vitebsk brand 200. Each brick cost me 25 rubles apiece.

I didn’t bother with clay, which I needed to get somewhere else and prepare a solution, since I don’t have any special skills. I bought a ready-made mixture "The Makarovs Stove House" produced by Kostroma, Gzhel colors. They also have a white clay mixture for aesthetes. Pechnikov could not be found - everyone is busy. The cost from the craftsmen starts from 40 rubles for a brick for the lining and 60 rubles for a brick on the pipe. You can calculate the cost of the work yourself. I will do it myself, although the work will be delayed.

Part 6. Furnace

"And the battle begins again" - we continue the construction of the bathhouse and the improvement of the internal space. The heart of the bath is the oven. My wishes for the climate of the future steam room and the rest of the premises are extremely simple and unpretentious. Firstly, the legs and ears should be warm even in winter, and not bathe with a hard plus in the head area and at the same time in felt boots, so that your feet do not freeze. Secondly, there must be inertia sauna stove to be able to stop flooding and take a steam bath without running around for firewood with constant maintenance of the desired temperature. It is advisable to keep warm in the bath for two or three days to dry the premises. And, thirdly, hot water should not boil in the steam room, but is in the wash compartment in the portable tank.

As I already wrote, the Sochi stove from the Izistim company with a hinged heat exchanger for heating water was chosen.

The heat exchanger is equipped with inlet and outlet pipes with a diameter of one inch. The structure is intended for brick lining, which will simultaneously become a screen against hard infrared radiation emanating from metal and a heat accumulator. Before installation, it is required to heat the stove on the street in a gentle mode to burn the factory paint and eliminate the smell of burning when operating directly in the bath. A heat-resistant cord is laid on the door and the blower, which is necessary for sealing. Previously, this was not the case, but the company's managers listen to the recommendations of consumers through communication on the forum and make the necessary changes.

A cast iron grate is installed inside the combustion chamber. Additional sheets of metal are welded on the sides and at the end of the chamber to reduce the effect of the flame on the walls of the furnace to avoid deformation.

For relative thrust, I installed a meter-long pipe and conducted the first tests of a metal bath stove. The draft even with such a stub of the pipe is good enough, only there is a slight intake of smoke from the door when it is opened and, accordingly, a small soot on the glass.

The foundation for the furnace is connected to the foundation of the bath, reinforcement was carried out during the pouring. To begin with, the masonry leveled the surface with cement mortar so as not to damage the waterproofing. I put roofing material in two layers on the pedestal, on which I will begin to lay out the brick.

To rise above the floor level, and from the foundation it will be about 18-19 centimeters, we lay out the base under the oven three bricks high. There is a little trick. To save mortar and bricks, lay out a "well", and inside we simply place the worst brick and fill the remaining space with sand.

The sand will need to be slightly moistened and compacted so that it does not settle, but this is not necessary, the filling will not go anywhere.

Brick produced by Kostroma, costing 24 rubles apiece. The geometry is normal, there are chips at the corners and edges, so you have to choose on the front side of the oven. It pricks badly, it is better to cut it with a grinder. The oven mixture "Makarov's oven house" is used for the solution. The mortar sets quickly, holds the brick well, is easy to use. Bags of 25 kg, the cost is about 400 rubles apiece. One bag is designed for 60 bricks. The solution must be mixed with a powerful drill with a nozzle, it is unlikely that you can make a homogeneous mass with your hands. The mixture is well dried and a lot of water has to be added.

I “sealed” the upper row of bricks along the base of the furnace with mortar, I wanted to install the structure on metal nickels - the legs of the furnace, as it seemed to me, would push the brick. But it turned out that in this case, the neck with the door rises and a gap appears. Therefore, then I cleaned off the solution, refused the lining.

Immediately I tried on convection doors that will draw air from the relaxation room to the steam room for exchange. But, as it turned out later, they cannot be installed in this place, the decorative screen around the firebox will interfere.

The most difficult thing was to drag the stove into the bathhouse and not carry anything along the way. The 130 kg design aroused respect, and we had to order two stronger loaders. If for the first time a loader from the category of “legs and a cap” helped me to drag the stove to the bathhouse, then the masters really came here. They pushed me aside and in 10 minutes they hoisted the "piece of iron" to the place of operation.

I put a T-bend on the furnace to determine the root pipe. The picture shows a rear view, where "lambs" are located for removing the roof and then cleaning the pipe from soot, although the manufacturers assured me of its absence.

The root tube will run to the left of the kiln and will also stand on a foundation connected to a common belt. We continue laying with the formation of the pipe.

The pipe will be functional only after the entrance of the T-shaped segment, therefore we make its sides one and a half bricks, and we also fill the inner space with sand.

Inside the steam room, in the oven screen, we install two more convection doors, but of a large size. This is necessary to quickly warm up the room. We do not lay the top of the furnace with bricks, we leave space for stones. When the convection doors are open, air is taken from the floor, passes near the furnace body and exits through the stones already heated. The air flow can be adjusted with a damper. The doors are hung from the side convenient for you.

I bought the doors from the Izistim company, they modernized the structure by adding a stainless steel box along the width of the brick. Now it has become convenient to install the doors, without additional fastening with wire. Small gaps are left along the perimeter (except for the bottom) of the doors, which compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

The root pipe, so that it passes between the rafters and does not take up much space, is located in line with the "face" of the stove screen. The T-piece goes a little to the side. In "Isistim" they made it for me with a margin. But, as it turned out, the size was the most suitable, as they say, do not subtract, do not add. A product made of 4 mm stainless steel cost 4500 rubles.

It's time to hang the heat exchanger. I bought galvanized corners, sleeves and couplings per inch, attached them to the general structure, wrapping the threads with flax treated with heat-resistant sealant (red in the photo).

The brickwork reached the top of the firebox. We install a support corner 50 * 50 mm with an 8-10 cm approach to the brick.Around the firebox, a thermal gap of about 2 cm.

The front side is almost finished, the convection doors are set higher than planned, but for air exchange it is even more convenient, the air coming from the relaxation room into the steam room will not overheat. Contact with a heated oven is minimal.

We slowly close the heat exchanger with masonry and make the outlets of the branch pipes for connection with the remote tank. The holes are not very neat and then I will cover them with stainless steel discs or other decor that is not afraid of moisture. This is a wall in the washing room, it is planned to lay out bricks up to the ceiling.

The front of the stove is finished, the next row will be a “mantelpiece” so that hot air from the firebox does not go directly to the ceiling when it is opened, but has some obstacle. Yes, and you can put items of interior decoration on the shelf.

The wall in the washroom has been completed, the piping has been completed. It remains to buy stainless pipes and make connections with a hinged tank.

It's time to drive the pipe. Masonry strapping from the steam room side. The T-piece is connected to the sleeve through a tee. A cover is installed at the bottom of the tee to allow condensate drainage and to clean the pipe from soot.

From the side of the steam room, the stove looks like this: the T-shaped adapter is covered by a brick screen from above. A corner 40 * 40 was taken as supports.

I will cover the cavity above the stove and the adapter with stones for decoration and evaporation of various incense, there is no other function for these stones. And perhaps I will close the pipe with a sheet of stainless steel to avoid harsh heat radiation from a highly heated metal.

We continue to build the pipe. In the place of passage of the ceiling, we form a fluff in order to maintain fire-prevention distances from the "smoke" to wooden structures... As expected, the front and side walls of the stove reached almost to the future ceiling.

The root pipe is calculated to run midway between the ceiling beams. And so it happened. The pipe has grown to the roof and it is time to make an opening.

And the "face" of the stove looks like this. Convection doors are located in one row with the pipe cleaning. It is still covered with clay, but you can already understand what I want.

Next, we prepare the roof for the passage of the pipe. From the inside, the roof was drilled at the corners of the future passage with a margin of one centimeter. With a grinder on the roof I sawed out metal tiles. I got a passage almost strictly in the center of the ridge, which is convenient for the subsequent closure of the hole from rain. And the snow will not put pressure on the brickwork.

First of all, we take out a sleeve from a stainless pipe into the opening, then we start laying.

You should not be content with just the level, you will have to run downward so that the pipe is visually even. "Otter", protection from rain is made almost half a brick. And here the pipe, while not cleared of clay, takes its proper form.

He cleaned the pipe of clay and covered it with three layers of varnish for exterior work on stone and brick. Each layer hardens in about four parts at a temperature of + 200 ° C. The result is a wet stone effect and pore sealing. The temperature in the furnace head will approximately correspond to the outside air, if only a little warmer, therefore the varnish is frost-resistant, withstanding sudden temperature changes. The result is the effect of a wet stone and sealing of pores on the brick and seams, which will protect the material from washing out.

Around the pipe, I covered it with the material that remained from the manufacture of the ebb. Approach a brick about 1 centimeter under the "otter". The very first rains showed the effectiveness of the design.

First of all, clean the oven from clay. Do not use water. This will only rub the mortar inside the brick and will not get rid of the stains. If you do not want to spoil the outer part of the brick, then please be patient, with rags and brushes. You can use fine sandpaper.

Secondly, cover the oven with heat-resistant varnish, it is enough to use the composition up to 1500 ° C, you will no longer warm up the screen if you wish.

And thirdly, put an umbrella on the pipe in order to avoid precipitation from getting inside.

A little trick: take rainwater to prepare the solution, thus you can avoid salty stains on the bricks when the clay dries.

And, I will be happy to answer all your questions, since the report from the scene is far from complete and you may be interested in some of the nuances. We will help, take a photo, show.

To be continued! ( 1 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

The bathhouse built in Russian traditions is considered ideal place to cleanse the soul and body. By visiting it regularly, you manage to maintain health, maintain youth and get real pleasure. It is not surprising that many decide to build a Russian-style bathhouse with their own hands.

Features of the Russian bath

The Russian bath, which was built by our ancestors, includes two sections: a dressing room and a steam room. The largest size of this room is 2.3x4 m, the smallest one is 5x6 m. Baths with such dimensions are popular again.

1 - dressing room; 2 - steam room and washing room; 3 - shelves; 4 - oven

The device of a primordially Russian bath means:

creation of an unburied columnar foundation based on boulders, devoid of a base;
assembly of a log house from selected wild logs, that is, material that has not been subjected to any processing, except for removing bark and drying;
construction without the use of nails;
plugging cracks with moss and tow;
installation of a flat ceiling;
insulation of floor and ceiling coverings with moss and peat;
waterproofing the structure with resin and boot pitch;
making a sod or shingle roof;
creating a furnace from bricks.

Preparation for construction: drawings and dimensions

When composing a sauna project, one should not forget that several people will use the steam room and the washing room at once. Therefore, the area and dimensions of the baths should be determined, avoiding serious mistakes.

The second version of the bath differs in the arrangement of the shower

To make it convenient for each user to be in the bath room, he needs to allocate at least 1.8 m² in the dressing room and 1.5 m² in the steam room. The average total usable area for a family bath is 10 m². At the same time, most of the space should be in the dressing room, and less in the steam room and washing department.

In order for people of any height to wash in Russian, the ceiling should be built at a height of 2.4 meters.

When determining the height of the ceiling, take into account that soon the building will sit down

At the stage of construction planning, it is necessary to reflect in the drawing the area for arranging the vestibule. This room may be needed as a place to block the path of cold air from the street.

For the vestibule, 2.32 sq. m

Adherents of tradition are recommended to build a bathhouse from quality coniferous wood. This material is not fragile, and most importantly, it serves for a long time. And the needles are also environmentally friendly and have low thermal conductivity, that is, they do not release heat and at the same time interfere with air exchange. The unique property of this tree is considered resistance to various manifestations of climate.

Such a wooden building should stand on a solid foundation.

For construction, you can take one of two types of coniferous wood:

rounded round logs;
solid bars.

Experienced builders advise to build a bathhouse from beams, since this material is cheaper, and it is much easier to build walls from it. In addition, a timber structure does well without a bulky foundation.

The timber structure looks simple, but easy to assemble

If you opt for rounded logs, you can be severely disappointed: the log structure settles for a long time, which is why it will not be possible to put it into operation earlier than a year and a half after construction. Unlike a log bath, a log structure can be safely used six months after the completion of construction work.

When buying beams, you should use a tape measure to check the material for compliance with the specified dimensions, and then make sure that the building materials are of good quality. To do this, you need to do the following:

List of materials and tools

To build a Russian bath, you need to stock up not only with beams and bricks, but also:

To carry out construction tasks, you should arm yourself:

DIY step-by-step construction of an object

Construction takes place in stages:

along the perimeter of the future structure and under its carriers inner walls create pits for the formation of a strip foundation;
sand is poured on the bottom of the trench, the finished "pillow" is pressed and poured with water;
the holes are filled with reinforcing rods and liquid concrete, the layer of which is smoothed with cement mortar;
Before pouring concrete from the boards, formwork is built
a base for a brick oven is formed from concrete;
several layers of waterproofing material treated with bitumen mastic are placed on the platform;
the frame is assembled by connecting the beams according to the method "at the corners in the paw, and the ends are in half a tree without a residue", laying a heater between them and through each row setting the pins at a distance of 20 cm from the edge;
The corners are connected in 4 steps, and the ends - in 3 steps
prepare a platform for the floor, that is, a 10 cm layer of sand is poured, pressed, and then covered with a 10 cm layer of crushed stone;
crushed stone is covered with roofing material canvases with adjoining edges for several centimeters;
cement is placed on the roofing material, creating a screed with a slope, thereby equipping the waste water flow towards the sewer pipe built into the ground and leading to a separately dug hole;
glue on the hardened cement screed facing material, on top of which a wooden crate is placed;
Wooden battens on the floor keep your feet from touching the cold floor
floor beams are attached to the upper bars of the walls in a horizontal position;
installed beams with iron brackets are connected to rafters - thick beams;
fasten rafter legs with each other using ridge bars;
the rafters are covered with a roll-up waterproofing sheet and wooden deck - the basis for roofing material;
create a ceiling, that is, not load-bearing walls boards are laid out every 2, 5 meters;
over ceiling slabs lay a vapor barrier film and lay a thermal insulation material.

Finishing

Finishing work is started after the structure has shrunk. First of all, all surfaces inside the bath are covered with an antiseptic compound.

Interior finishing involves the performance of such tasks as:

installation of the lathing directly on the walls and ceiling;
laying insulation and vapor barrier material in the gaps of the crate;
lining flooring or other facing material.

Lining is laid on the ceiling and wall

If the most popular building material for interior decoration baths became only lining, then a lot of materials are in demand for facing the outer walls of the building:

vinyl or metal siding;
plastic lining;
block house imitating the view of a log house;
edged or unedged boards at a low price.

The material extends the life of the building

Finding stones for the bath room

It is customary to use igneous rocks in the steam room. Formed during a volcanic eruption, they are resistant to extreme heat. Igneous rocks that have a positive effect on the energy forces of a person include:

polished or chipped jadeite, the main feature of which is beauty;
talc chloride, capable of absorbing moisture and evaporating it to create the desired steam in the bath;
basalt that can withstand high temperatures.

In addition to its benefits, this stone provides aesthetic pleasure.

Metamorphic rocks can be laid on the stove, which tend to normalize blood composition and improve well-being. We are talking about such stones as:

white quartz, called hot ice, and when it cools sharply, it releases ozone;
crimson quartzite, the second name of which is the royal stone.

Such a stone is ideally combined with brickwork.

To create steam in a bath, you can use full-crystalline rocks, for example:

dunite;
serpentinite.

These stones are able to regenerate cells of the nervous system, increase immune strength and have a beneficial effect on the functioning of the thyroid gland.

The length of such a stone is about 20 cm

If you want to move away from traditions, then it is better to use cast iron stones - balls produced by industry as steam generators in the bath. They instantly heat up the room and keep warm for long hours. True, cast iron stones undergo rusting after a short service life and do not carry any properties useful to humans.

Sedimentary and siliceous rocks should definitely not be placed on the furnace. Their structure is porous, which means that, when they cool down sharply, they become covered with cracks and small particles scatter in a zone of one meter.

Exploitation

The main requirement for using a bath is to create the right temperature. In the steam room, this physical value should be within 55-77 degrees.The temperature indicator is selected individually, that is, it depends on the preferences of the owner of the bath. It is customary to heat the washing room to 40 °, and the rest room to 20 °.

In order for the bath to serve for a long time and properly, you need to use it according to the rules:

put in the firebox exclusively any dry fuel, except for firewood from coniferous wood;
hold the door combustion chamber closed, thereby avoiding the emission of hot sparks;
do not allow the chimney to glow until it becomes red;
do not touch hot surfaces, including the walls of the water heating tank;
monitor the cleanliness of the bath rooms;
ventilate the sectors of the bathhouse after each firebox for four hours;
try not to splash water on glass surfaces in the room (on windows and doors);
clean and inspect the chimney for holes at least once a quarter.

The owner of the bath will have to carefully look after the wooden surfaces. The elements inside the bath, made of wood, are supposed to be coated twice a year with special means to protect against fungi and rotting. External processing wooden walls buildings are recommended to be carried out after two years of operation. To do this, it is better to use antiseptics, which include wax.

Wood deteriorates over time and therefore needs careful maintenance

In order for a Russian bathhouse to produce the required amount of heat, one must be able to regulate the traction force. To do this, open the ash storage chamber door more or less. Excessive thrust will cause the furnace to heat up too much, and this will bring the equipment failure time closer. If the force forcing air to enter the firebox is normalized, then the stones in the bath heat up to a standard temperature.

During the heating of the stove, the operation of the chimney should be monitored. The consumption of firewood will be reduced to a minimum, and the efficiency of heat supply will be increased, just not completely covering the chimney gate. But this is only allowed after the complete closing of the ash chamber.

Video: building a bath from scratch

You can get real joy from the construction of a Russian bath. It is clear that this work is impossible without skills and work, but the result is proud. This feeling is even stronger if the object was built on their own.

After building a house on their site, most land owners think about building a good steam room there. In this case, the work is supposed to be done by hand, and the bathhouse should be built quickly, cheaply and very simply. Satisfying these criteria is not so easy, but it is still possible.

It is hardly worth relying on other people's projects or ordering excessively expensive individual plans the buildings. In most cases, a small building is required to meet the needs of a family of 2-3 people.

The foundation is the basis of everything

For most self-contained buildings with little physical activity, the following types of foundations are used:

pouring concrete;
support-columnar;
on pile-screw supports;
tape-block.

The simplest is the columnar base. It is used both for frame structures and for timber structures. Cheap begins with it frame bath, erected by their own hands.

For support, cement blocks (cinder block) with dimensions of 200x200x400 mm are used. They are mounted according to a prepared template at the corners of a conventional grid of 2x2 m. Accordingly, in order to build a 12 m 2 bathhouse with your own hands cheaply and in stages, as shown here, you will need about 9 such supports. Each of them contains 4 blocks.

Before installation, it is necessary to level the site, and the installation should be carried out along the construction hydraulic level. First, you need to fill a layer of sand under the base and tamp it. From this stage, it is possible to provide for the installation of the weir.

When using screw piles, it is unlikely that it will be possible to reduce the total cost less than the price of a strip foundation. However, for wetlands or soil with high groundwater levels, this solution would be appropriate. In such a situation, you can save money on your own installation without the involvement of third-party specialists or technicians.

It will be possible to build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply on a strip foundation of blocks. For a structure of 12 m 2, an amount of 6,000 rubles will be required, taking into account that the laying is carried out independently, as well as the preparation of the solution. This will reduce the expenditure side.

For most types of foundations, care must be taken to have a sand cushion.

Actual building materials

When erecting walls for a cheap bath with your own hands (the video is on the site), you can use a large number of modern materials. They have a lot of positive qualities, but the most accessible of them, and at the same time effective, are the following:

wooden beam;
arbolite;
the use of an insulated frame.

In our country, it is enough to use a 100 mm thick bar for the outer walls of the bath, which will be operated from late spring to late autumn. During the installation of the timber, it is necessary to install the dowel at least every 0.9-1.0 m. For classic size in 12 m 2 it will be enough to stock up on 62 bars. Such a do-it-yourself bath will definitely come out cheaper than its larger counterparts.

In the process, a mezhventsovy insulation is used. The total amount of these materials will be about 25 ... 30 thousand rubles. If you take all this from a wholesale warehouse or directly from the manufacturer, you can save money.

When building the cheapest wood concrete bath with your own hands, you need to stock up on this amount of material:

about 20 bags of cement;
a quarter or a third of a cube of sawdust;
sand 2.5-3.0 t;
about 1 m 3 of lumber;
enough water.

When pouring a bath from sawdust material, every time 2-3 days are expected for the layer to harden, and only after that the formwork is rearranged. It should be noted that with this method, the maximum costs for the construction of walls are unlikely to exceed 12,000-15,000 rubles.

When erecting walls from this material, you will need to devote a lot of time to protecting them from moisture in the steam room. Increased waterproofing will protect the material from destruction by water.

Arbolite construction

In addition to a cheap bath from a bar or arbolite, you can build a frame structure with your own hands. Moreover, it will need to be reliably insulated. For an estimated building of 12 m 2 of area, you need to stock up on 3 m 3 of beams. Also, the estimate will need to include insulation. In a lightweight version, 10 cm of thickness is enough. If basalt wool is used during the construction, then the total cost of the walls will not exceed 25,000 rubles. At the same time, the advantage of this type of mineral wool is its maximum fire safety.

Floor arrangement

Any bathhouse built by your own hands cheaply and quickly will not do without a reliable floor. For its installation, various paired schemes tested by many owners are used. In most cases, you have to use the double base option.

A sand cushion of 150 mm is pre-arranged, which can be poured and tamped for better styling.
The base surface is then a concrete casting of 70-80 mm.
The top layer is a mesh rail, knocked into a rigid frame. This deck can be moved and laid as you like.

After each visit wooden frames from the floor, it is advisable to dry and ventilate outside the walls of the steam room.

The total cost, which includes sand, cement and slats, will be approximately 3000-4000 rubles.

Even before laying and installing the floor surface in the bath, you need to drain and drain it into a drainage pit outside. For the absence of odor, it is necessary to use ready-made gutters with water locks.

Working with the ceiling

When working with the ceiling, you must adhere to certain tricks, only then it will be possible to build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply, as in the video. It is impossible to use an overly thin lining to cover the ceiling, this applies to a thickness of about 15 mm, as it quickly absorbs moisture and damp. It is necessary to take boards about 30 mm thick, which will save on insulation.

Quality ceiling scheme

In the old days, a composition of earth or clay mixed with dry leaves was used to insulate ceilings. This natural option remains in demand today, when it is necessary to build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply, as in the photo. Instead of leaves, sawdust is suitable.

For a project of 12 m 2, it is enough to have 17 prepared boards with tongues available to cover the entire ceiling. Before filling the insulation from the outside, a layer of glassine must be laid.

A pitched roof will take about 0.7 m 3 of wooden beams. They are covered with two layers of roofing material, and the seams are glued with bitumen. Such a roof can last up to five years without leakage.

VIDEO: Bath for a summer residence - very fast and very cheap

The most cheap bath - this is the choice for those who want to quickly and without special financial losses build a small but fully functional bathhouse for themselves and their families on their own plot. It is clear that the durability of such a building will be noticeably inferior to the service life of classic structures made of timber or blocks, but subject to certain simple rules and such a bath will last at least 7-10 years.

This review will consider the most budgetary, simple and at the same time quite environmentally friendly and comfortable small bath with dimensions of 4x2.5 meters plus a platform 4x1.5 for the porch. The main savings are achieved through minimum investment into the foundation and walls. Since the dimensions are very compact, the weight of the entire structure makes it possible not to use special blocks for the foundation, or even more so to perform concrete pouring.

As a foundation, the cheapest option is poles made of old tires. In this case, the used rubber slopes were taken from the Gazelle car.

The photo shows that the tires were laid on roofing felt, which lay directly on the ground, but this solution has its drawbacks. The land at the construction site must be firm, without noticeable differences in height. In addition, you need to make sure that the area chosen for the bath is not flooded with water during long periods of rain.

It would be best to level the ground under them before laying such supports. To do this, it is enough to remove the top fertile layer and fill the site with gravel or rubble. This solution will additionally protect the floor from all kinds of vegetation that will tend to germinate under the building.

Without fail, the first thing to do is to correctly mark all the tire installation points. It is very important that the wooden trim at the base of the bath is made as accurately as possible, so that all angles are 90 °, and the beams around the perimeter have pre-calculated dimensions. If you do not make the geometrically correct strapping, then there will be great difficulties with the installation of the roof frame.

The strapping is made of 150x150 mm timber, laid on roofing material, laid over the tires. The perimeter of the grillage is 4x4 meters. The vertical column in the photo, also made of a 15x15 cm bar, divides the structure into an internal space and a porch.

Frame and walls

The walls are made of wooden pallets insulated with mineral wool slabs along the entire perimeter. All boards and beams are treated with an antiseptic.

Outside, the tree is sheathed with a vapor-permeable windproof membrane. Here it is important to take a vapor-permeable material so that the insulation can effectively evaporate moisture into the external environment.

On top of the windscreen, vertical strips are stuffed for fixing the external finishing boards.

To protect the roof, a vapor-permeable membrane is also laid on the rafter system, on top of which the metal tile is installed.

External finishing - unedged board painted by Belinka. So that in the process of attaching such boards to the crate they do not crack, you need to use either galvanized nails, or fix the material with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled small holes in the attachment points. Mounting on self-tapping screws without preparation sometimes leads to cracking of the board along the edges.

Interior decoration

The floor is covered with dense foil waterproofing with gluing of all seams with foil tape.

On top of the water protection, a lathing for a finished floor made of a 150x25 mm board is installed. A home-made metal furnace is installed as a combustion unit.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed with foil vapor barrier on kraft paper and closed wooden board 100x15 mm on the crate. The lining was not installed for reasons of economy, since a budget bath is still being built.

This is how the door looks from the side of the entrance to the bath through the veranda. The total cost of all materials was no more than $ 1,700. Despite the low cost of the building, you should not neglect the fire safety rules. The wall near the stove must be finished with heat-resistant sheet material, and the chimney passage through the roof is made with indents from wooden structures of at least 10-15 cm on each side.

The space between the pipe and the wood is filled with non-combustible mineral wool, and from the side of the steam room it is sheathed with a metal sheet. This decision was taken from an article that describes in detail the manufacturing technology of an inexpensive frame bath with welded metal strapping and dimensions of 4.8x2.6 meters.

A bath is an obligatory attribute of most summer cottages and household plots. However, its construction is often associated with considerable costs. However, when a small building is being erected, which is used only in the warm season, financial losses can be minimized.

Review of alternative building materials - choose from three

The main expenses that await us during the construction of a bath are the purchase of construction and consumables. Therefore, when making an estimate for construction, we will think about how these costs can be reduced. The traditional building material for baths is considered to be timber in the form of a bar or rounded log. Slightly less common are brick or sibit buildings that have proven themselves well. But, unfortunately, the price of such consumables is quite high.

Consider alternative options materials that are not so well-known, but quite suitable for the quick construction of an inexpensive bathhouse:

Cinder block. It is easy to work with, and its cost is low.
Arbolit (wood concrete). It was widely used in construction in the middle of the last century. Differs in light weight, ease of processing, plasticity.
differs in the speed of construction. The price depends on the heat insulator used.

Of these options, the last two are the most acceptable. The fact is that the classic cinder block can hardly be called an environmentally friendly material. Of course, modern manufacturers reduce its danger to a minimum, but this applies only to large companies. But health is not a thing that you want to risk. A lot has already been said about frame baths. Therefore, further we will talk about how to build an arbolite bath.

A strong base is the key to the durability of the building

Owners of summer cottages and country houses tape, monolithic, screw foundations and options on support posts are popular. Each of these options has strengths and weaknesses. For example, a strip base can be made with your own hands at no extra cost, but it is almost impossible to equip it in areas with complex terrain. In addition, concrete (the main component) gains strength for at least 14 days, and ideally a month. There is no need to talk about efficiency.

A monolithic foundation can withstand significant loads, but at the same time it is subject to the same drawbacks as a tape foundation - it is difficult to equip it in swampy and uneven areas. Not to mention the price. The cost of such a foundation is not affordable. But you still need to take into account the costs of logistics. Foundations on pillars are considered one of the most affordable. Yes, the device of such a foundation will require a minimum of labor and money. However, like the previous options, it is undesirable to use it in areas with watery soil.

Screw piles are considered to be equal in cost to strip foundations. One can agree with this opinion if we forget about the accompanying expenses. To install metal piles, you do not need to order and pay for the delivery of concrete, spend money on a reinforcing belt, sand and gravel for a pillow. But, perhaps, the main advantage is that you can install a screw foundation in one day without outside help.

Such piles are blamed for the inability to withstand significant loads. But our task is to build a bathhouse as quickly as possible and at the lowest cost. For us, screw piles are the best option.

Installing a screw foundation - step-by-step description

Let's start with a description of the pile itself. It is a steel pipe equipped with a tip and blades at the bottom. The pile dimensions depend on the required screwing depth into the ground, but cannot be less than 2.5 meters. The body of the pile is covered with an anti-corrosion solution. After twisting into the ground, the pile is crowned with a square head (50 × 50 cm). It is fixed with a welding machine, after which the seam is protected from corrosion. It is on this head that the support bar (channel) will lie, from which the construction of the bath will begin.

Work on the device screw foundation starts with markup. The proverb "measure seven times - cut one" is as relevant as ever. The number of piles depends on the dimensions of the future building, but the distance between them cannot be more than 3 m, and preferably 2–2.5 m. After marking and cleaning the construction site from debris and foreign objects, we invite assistants and proceed to screwing the piles:

In the marked place, we make a pit with a depth of no more than 30 cm and install a pile in it.
We align the pile vertically, pass the scrap through the mounting lugs and start screwing the pile.

Of course, the length of the crowbar will not create effective leverage. Therefore, we extend it with pre-prepared pipes, preferably square section - they have higher rigidity. The average burial rate is 20 cm per pile revolution. Stop screwing when the metal lever is deformed. But it is important that the pile goes below the freezing point. The minimum distance from the soil surface to the pile tip is 1.5 m.

After deepening the piles, we check their overground edges - they should be at the same level. If necessary, we make corrections with the help of a grinder. We finish the work by pouring piles into the cavity cement mortar... This will give it extra rigidity and prevent corrosion. The final stage, when working with piles, is the installation of the piping. For a wood concrete bath, we make it from a metal channel, welded to the heads. For a frame bath, a bolted beam is enough. A mandatory requirement in both cases is the use of a building level, the horizon must be flat, because the quality of the walls and roof depends on it.

Arbolite blocks - features of material and construction

Theoretically, you can make wood concrete blocks yourself. To do this, you will need a vibrating table, molds for blocks, cement and remnants of lumber (sawdust, shavings). However, given that the cost of such material is low, it can be purchased at a hardware store. This material combines such important characteristics for a bath as good vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity. In addition, do not forget about the safety of this material for human health.

Today you will hardly find baths with a combined steam room and sink. Typically, the layout provides for a separate steam room, sink and room. Drawings drawn up before construction will allow you to select the optimal size and number of consumables. There are two technologies for erecting walls from wood concrete - monolithic and from blocks. The first involves the preparation or purchase of wood concrete solution. We must say right away that pleasure is not cheap, and if you make it yourself, it still takes a long time. Therefore, let's turn to the second option - block construction.

By and large, this method does not differ from working with bricks, sibit or cinder block. Layout begins with the installation of corner blocks, after which a thread is pulled between them - a guideline for masonry. Adhering to the line set by the cord, lay out the first row. Next, we check its horizon with a building level. If necessary, we correct the flaws and proceed to laying out the second row.

Pay attention, unlike the same sibit, special glue is not required for laying wood concrete blocks - it is quite possible to do with the usual solution of sand and cement. However, there are similarities. For example, when laying out door and window openings, you need to lay a corner or channel on top. So, we raised the building of the future bath, it remains to erect a roof, install a stove and decorate indoor spaces.

Gable roof - roof and ceiling in a single complex

Among the variety of roofs different types (gothic, hip, oriental) let's stop at the gable. The explanation is simple - this design is simple, reliable and relatively inexpensive. Of building materials for the construction of such a roof, we need:

A beam of 100 × 100 mm - we will make a Mauerlat, vertical racks and stops for them from it.
Plank 50 mm thick and 100 mm wide - blanks for the rafter system.
Unedged boards and battens for lathing.

In addition to lumber, we will prepare a vapor barrier film, mineral wool, roofing material. As the latter, we use a metal profile - it is easy to work with it, and it is relatively inexpensive. We start by treating wood with an antiseptic and fire-fighting solution, in a bath is a mandatory requirement. Then we lay a waterproofing layer along the upper perimeter of the walls. And only after that we proceed to the installation of the rafter system.

It starts with laying a bar - Mauerlat along the perimeter of the walls. Naturally, all angles are checked with a building angle, and the horizon is checked by a level. After the Mauerlat is leveled, we pull it to the walls with anchor bolts. The next step is the installation of the tie beams. They are attached to the long sides of the Mauerlat "in the paw". That is, we need to cut out the corresponding grooves in the beams and the beam (base). After laying, we additionally fix the wooden parts with nails or staples. It is advisable to maintain the distance between the beams at 1.5 meters.

Having finished with the preparation of the base, we expose vertical racks at the ends of the building. We immediately attach temporary cuts to them (they will give rigidity to the structure) and rafter legs. We connect the racks with a bar - a run, the rest of the rafter legs rest on it. By the way, release them 20 cm from the wall - this will reduce the impact of precipitation on the wood concrete. After installing the rafters, we stuff an unedged board on them as a crate, put a vapor barrier film on it. It is attached using a construction stapler.

The final stage in the construction of the roof is the laying of the roofing material. The metal profile is pressed against the crate with roofing screws. Having closed the erected contour, we have already completed the construction by 70%. It remains for us to hem the ceiling and trim the walls inside the bath.

Room decoration - PVC panels or lining?

Among the budget finishing materials select PVC panels. They have proven themselves well when decorating rest rooms and washing rooms. This is quite a worthy alternative to ceramic tiles. You can choose such material for every taste and budget. But only for the washroom. In the steam room, it is better to turn to the traditional linden lining - it will not melt when exposed to high temperatures.

It is noteworthy that wall cladding with clapboard and panels is performed in almost the same way. In both cases, we need to mount wooden crate. Metal carcasscorrosive is unacceptable in this case. On stuffed and lined wooden base we mount wooden (in the steam room) and plastic (in the sink) panels.

Keep in mind, from the stove to wooden surfaces the distance should be at least 0.5 meters, but it can be reduced to 25 cm by protecting flammable surfaces with non-combustible material.

The final step before installing the oven is installing the ceiling. To do this, you can use clapboard or planed boards. We nail them to the tie beams and go up to the attic, we need to insulate the ceiling. Planks sewn from below and tie beams formed the attic floor. We cover it with a vapor barrier film and cover it with mineral wool. In order to save money, we will not use ready-made mats, but crumb mats, it can be bought, as residual raw materials, at enterprises producing sandwich panels and similar products.

The only caveat when arranging the ceiling is to install a 40 × 40 cm metal box at the exit of the chimney.It will be required in any case, regardless of which stove you prefer - metal or brick.