Crafts from stones can be made from a variety of stones: construction, ordinary street, sea.

They go well with shells, pasta and other materials, but even in a pure stone design, the craft will look original and interesting. And you can take stones of different sizes and shapes, and most importantly, colors to create it.

By the way, if you have multi-colored stones, you can combine them so that you don't even have to paint the craft.

Bottle of stones

An ordinary wine bottle can be turned into an original decor item if you decorate it with thin pebbles.

However, if you have certain skills and sharp tools, existing stones can be cut into thin plates, and even given a shape.

In addition, you don't even need to paint a multi-colored natural material, but even if you need colors that are not there, you can apply paint to the stones and you will get a beautiful

.

For example, gouache ...

It will not be waterproof, but if the craft decorates the interior, you can opt for it.

What you need:

  • wine bottle;
  • plasticine gray;
  • thin slabs of stones or bulky stones;
  • beads;
  • rhinestones.

So, first we take a bottle, clean it well from dirt and dust. Of course, we remove the label in advance and the layer of glue that could remain on the surface.

You can use crafts made of stones both in the interior and in landscape design... After all, such beauty does not require much effort and spending money!

Recently I noticed a craving for logic games. However, many individual games take up a lot of space. We will make a multifunctional board for checkers games.

Let's get started.

To make a board, we will need:

  • Trimming boards;
  • Glue;
  • Gas-burner;
  • Die;
  • Drill;
  • Glue;
  • Paper;
  • Stationery knife;
  • Printer;
  • Dowels;
  • Metal ruff;
  • Paint;
  • Acrylic lacquer;
  • Sandpaper.

From scraps of boards on dowels, we collect a shield.

We mark out the contours of our field. We cut it off.

We pass (not very carefully) with sandpaper the corners and the field.

Then we burn our workpiece with a burner.

You can go the other way, but burnt wood is more suitable for my interior.

We go through a metal brush until the structure is revealed and the required shade is obtained.

We make the chips in the same way, with a drill driving a bar through a die of a suitable size.

Then we cut the resulting cylinder into separate chips. Chips are needed in my case at least 64 pieces. We skin our checkers, and burn them on one side.

Having printed out on a printer, we cut out stencils.

We fill the markings on the fields with paint.

I prefer water-soluble ones, because it dries faster, and after half an hour you can continue to do evil work.

Now we open our board and chip with acrylic varnish.

The moment has come when we can safely use this product.

On such a board, you can play: checkers, reverse, go, 5 in a row, tic-tac-toe, corners, a bunch of other checker-type games, and I want to separately highlight the game abalon (a very interesting tactical-logical game, I recommend IMHO).

Now you are not afraid of long winter evenings, and on your summer vacation this board will be very useful to you.

A good go kit raises the level of play significantly. This seemingly strange feature of Go is easy to explain.
In Go, we spend 90% of our time contemplating and analyzing a position. At the same time, the activity of the brain is more than ever high, which consumes literally all visual information.
In order to effectively make decisions in Go, one cannot be in a state of permanent concentration. Usually, the human body can concentrate for about 15-20 minutes. After that comes an irresistible desire to relax. Therefore, Guo masters constantly alternate periods of concentration and relaxation in order not to get tired. Relaxation takes up to 30-40% of the total time allotted for the game.
When a player constantly sees in front of him low-quality stone chips and a scratched board with crooked, untidy lines, his brain spends its resources on extinguishing an unpleasant impression. The natural striving of man for beauty and harmony is inherent in nature. Beauty is an external characteristic of health and quality. So, a rotting fruit or fruit is unpleasant in appearance. I don't want to approach him. Research has shown that basic improvements in working conditions significantly increase efficiency. These problems are seriously discussed in ergonomics. In the east, this science was called Feng Shui or the art of harmonious organization of space.
A player who plays on a bad or ugly set cannot relax and therefore plays badly. Moreover, he does not enjoy the process of the game, and this is very important. It is known that if a person does something without pleasure, i.e. without return, the product of his labor is almost always of poor quality and even harmful. Since it contains the negative emanations of the worker who created it. It is known that in poorly built ugly-shaped houses or surrounded by ugly things, a person develops depression. He can get sick and even die.


A set of brown glazed stones (filling) in a stone bowl.
Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) China

Therefore, for the game of Go, it is necessary to use only high-quality kits that meet the standards. Fortunately, quality standards exist, and they have been in effect for centuries.
Do not be afraid that good equipment it costs expensive. This is not true. Kits are different. Of course, you can't get a good, quality kit for less than $ 50-100. After all, this equipment is not produced in Russia. Anything that will cost less is most likely either a low-quality product from China, or some kind of deception.
In this article we will tell you about what kits are, what are their differences and what features they have.
It is the duty of the club to know the history of each kit that it contains.
When contacting a club to buy a kit, ask to be shown the best kit that is. It doesn't matter how much it costs. You should see what kits the club director has. If he has nothing more than $ 100, then most likely all that he will offer you is a low-quality product. A serious club necessarily has in its stock a premium kit from $ 1000. The director of the club, who has never held such a kit in his hands, will not be able to teach you anything good either. So he is not familiar with the roots of the Guo culture.
You can also often hear the following words: "I'm going to buy a worse set, I'll see if I like the game or not, and then I'll buy better." It is possible that you will never buy yourself a better kit because you will get tired of the game and will not understand its charm. Having played on a bad set, you will very quickly no longer want to waste time on the next low-standard dominoes.
When you come to the club for a purchase, be sure to talk with the director about which countries he has been to and where he buys equipment and kits. Find out who his suppliers are, if he is familiar with the Guo masters of China, Japan and Korea. Ask to see his photos. You should see where the director of the club studied, to whom you want to leave a large amount of money. Approach the purchase of the kit thoroughly.
Classic Go kits are made in only three countries: Japan, Korea and China. China is the origin of the game. Here you can find the most exquisite and unique sets that will surely surprise you. Japan is the pinnacle of standard and quality. Unique kits can cost up to $ 500,000. Not everyone can afford equipment from Japan. These are status kits. Korea is a country of democracy in Asia. The kits from Korea are modest but tasteful. Usually they make up the main range of equipment in clubs in Europe and Russia. The Korean standard is popular in Europe. These are kits for all kinds of people.

Chinese kits




Kit from China. Board - a solid piece of kaya, bowls - ebony, stylized Qing dynasty, stones - black and white agate. Fan with the motto "Sun", Japan.

China is a special country. Here you can buy a mind-blowing fake for an authentic set, and of high quality, or you can find a set for 1 yuan that will be painful to look at. wooden bowls and flat stones, carved from an unknown rock of limestone. It is impossible to find out the nature of these stones from the Chinese. The elite Chinese set includes a thick board made of solid noble wood. These are either kaya or other breeds unknown in Russia. The bowls will be made of noble wood or antique. The stones are usually either agate or handmade jasper. There is also machine processing of stones.
There are also rare kits in China. So the head of the Go Culture Club "Ascent" Igor Grishin saw in China bowls for Go for $ 5000. This is incredible money for the Chinese. The seller did not even want to consider the possibility of reducing the price. It really was a very special story set. Such unique items can still be bought in China. In Russia, in a private collection, there is a set of stones from the Ming era (16th century) that is completely unusual and stunning in its beauty and shape.

Boards


The boards you buy in Russia will most likely come from China. It is the main supplier of inexpensive boards to our country. A classic Chinese board (up to 2.5 cm thick) is either glued bamboo veneer or bamboo veneered wood. Also, solid boards or glued from two or three bars rarely come across. Sometimes you can find semi-antique boards. Usually it is dark wood or dark veneer and gold rim. All thin boards are lined with silk-screen printing, i.e. machine. The sizes of the Chinese boards differ, they are usually larger than the Korean and Japanese ones, since the Chinese flat stones are slightly wider in diameter than their counterparts from neighboring countries. On the back of a Chinese board, you can often see the markings for Chinese chess - xiangqi. Very seldom come across boards with European chess. The downside to glued bamboo boards is that they can crack in drier Russian climates. In this respect, boards, simply veneered with bamboo are more beautiful and reliable.
Elite boards are usually 5 cm thick and thicker. There are glued from two pieces, and there are from a single piece of wood. Whole, of course, more expensive tree species. This is mainly kaya. There are heavy boards (5-7 kg each), there are light ones. Colors range from gold (kaya) to greenish. Not sold separately without stones. Ruling is usually manual.
How to determine if you have a manual ruler? It is enough to carefully study the structure of the lines on the board. If the lines are thin and the stellar points are subtle, then this is a good indication of manual ruling. Also, if you examine the edge of the board, then when manually ruled, the start of the line will be visible. Sometimes the lines go beyond the extreme line. This is not the case with machine ruling. An important indicator of the quality of the board is the thickness of the star point. The finer the points, the more expensive the board.
Elite boards are always one-sided, i.e. there are no xiangqi or other markings on their back. Sometimes the board is signed by a high-level Go master.
The Chinese rarely tint their boards, usually the texture of the wood is visible through the transparent varnish. It's beautiful.
The Chinese do not know how to make boards with legs or gobans. All of them are of terrible quality, the lines are crooked and blurry.
There is a newfangled tendency in China to make gobans out of veneered chipboard or pieces of glued wood. Often the legs are screwed into such a goban. These "products" of the Chinese industry are best avoided. This is a low-quality fake, aimed at an inexperienced European consumer. A Chinese man will never buy himself such a "kit", and a master who respects himself and his school will not sell it to you.
It is very difficult to buy a board in China on your own. The defect rate in Chinese factories is extremely high. Almost all boards are defective. Therefore, it is better to purchase a selected board in Moscow. At the very least, you can be sure that you have a really top quality board in your home. Moscow clubs value their reputation.

Stones


Stones in China are usually flat, which makes them different from Japanese and Korean ones. Ancient Chinese stones were made in the form of a pyramid-cone. In the course of history, stones "lost weight" and in our time they began to be made completely flat.
The cheapest stones in China are made from plastic. Such stones are not imported to Russia. The next stage is pressed stone chips. Such stones can sometimes be found in our country. This is followed by stones carved from some kind of limestone. The highest quality flat stones are those cut from insu (this is the name of this type of stone in China). Distinctive feature insu - black stones in the light are dark green, and white ones are slightly beige.


Flat Chinese stones in wooden bowls, PRC

All flat stones from China smell of either acetone or other industrial odor. Before use, they should be rinsed in a bowl of powder or soda.
The Chinese also make stones from glass. They come in a variety of fun colors, from light green to burgundy. They are also flat.
Elite Chinese stones are made from semi-precious rocks such as jasper (jade), agate, lapis lazuli, aventurine, mother-of-pearl and others.


Lapis lazuli and aventurine, China

The imperial kits on display at Gugun contain stones of dark green and white (the most expensive) jade. There are also sets of agate. They are flat. Emperor Qin Shi Huang Di's set consists of wide flat stones of white and green jade in bowls different sizes... The bowl for dark stones is much larger than the bowl for white stones. The most ancient stones, made in the form of pyramids, are made of agate and jasper.
Jasper stone sets, known in Russia as jade, come in different standards. Usually the stones are cheeky. Jasper is called yu in Chinese.


A scattering of light stones from a jasper set, China

On one side, the top of the stone is ground off so that it does not move on the board. Jasper happens different shades... The popular standards are light green and black, light green and dark green. Jasper stones are very beautiful, sometimes just bewitchingly beautiful. They clearly show the texture of the stone, veins and cracks. Jade is pleasant to the hands and does not irritate the eye. It is also very beneficial for human health. This is a warm kit.


A scattering of stones from an agate set, China

Agate stones (in Chinese - manou) amaze anyone who sees them for the first time. This is a luxurious kit. Good agate stones come in clear water or chipped, which the Chinese especially love. Color varies. Agate can be transparent (these are light stones) or milky. Dark stones come in both black and dark gold. All stones are usually slightly uneven, sliding in the hands and on the board. It takes skill to play them. Their inconvenience hints at the special and skillfulness of their owner. Also in the martial arts, the master must do all the techniques with perfect posture, which is difficult.
There are sets of agate with small stones - this is machine processing. Agate stones are usually irregular in shape, tending to the checiform pattern.
There are original kits, for example, red and green agate or light beige and dark gold.


Stones: red and green agate, PRC
Bowls: ebony, Qing dynasty
Collection of the club "Ascent"

Shell stones. The Chinese have learned, like the Japanese, to sharpen white stones from shells. The black ones are made from some strange stone with a greenish tint. The thickness of the shells varies, we will talk about it in the section of Japanese sets. In general, Chinese shell stones make a faint impression. They are made of poor quality. This is apparently due to the foreignness of the standard.
The stones are not sold separately from the bowls.

Bowls


Chinese bowls come in different qualities and different forms... Bowls woven from straw are very popular in China. They usually store insu kits.


Wicker bowls, PRC
Stones: Korean faience

There is a special Chinese standard for bowls that differ in shape from the Japanese standard. Since Chinese rules prescribe not taking prisoners, the lids of the bowls are always flat. Only modern bowls began to be made with recesses in the lids, as in Japanese bowls. Ancient kits bring to us the intricate shapes of the bowls. For example, the imperial set in Gugun is represented by bowls with special handles on the lids.
The standards and shapes of bowls in China varied from dynasty to dynasty. The bowls of the last Qin dynasty, the lids of which look like drops, look very harmonious.


"Four seasons of qi" bowls, original work, Qing dynasty
Stones: selected agate, China

Simple bowls are made from various types of wood, while elite bowls are made from either ebony or kaya. Sometimes the problem with simple bowls is the drying out of the lids in the Russian climate. Elite sets are not subject to such metamorphoses.
There are unique bowls made from a single bamboo trunk or a piece of stone.


Solid rock bowl with graphics
Stones: Ming Dynasty Bulk Sets (1368-1644)
Private collection, Russia


Bowl made of bamboo trunk, carving, 20 c. PRC
Stones: Selected Agate


Bowls: red lacquer, classic carving, PRC
Stones: Selected Agate

Fans


The fan is a master's property. Fans are different. I haven't come across Chinese fans yet.

Japanese kits



Go set with samurai coat of arms, 17-19 centuries, Japan.
The stones are white and red agate.

Japan has dictated the style of Go since the 17th century. Japanese kits are by definition not bad. It's impossible. An interesting historical detail is the fact that the Japanese faced a daunting problem: they could not find identical materials for the kits in order to completely copy the Chinese standards. There is no jasper or agate in Japan. For this reason, Japanese craftsmen began to grind stones from shell and basalt.
The white Hamaguri shell from the Hyuga Bar repeats the streaks and stripes of agate. Black basalt is similar to black jasper. Stone standards in Japan have changed. The Japanese have always tried to grind stones as thick as possible, imitating Chinese sets. Sometimes the material for the stones was bought abroad.
In the art of making goban tables, the Japanese craftsmen have surpassed everyone. The Chinese have never paid attention to the blackboard. A stump or stone could act as a field of play, on which silk or leather was spread with a board marking. The main thing in Chinese sets is stones and bowls. The Japanese also focused on making amazing boards.
The Japanese belief for Go is the envy of all Go masters around the world. They surpass any analogues in beauty and grace. The Chinese fan has always been large and unwieldy. Japanese fans are very small, almost invisible. The higher the level of the master, the less fan he has.

Boards


Japanese gobans are always of excellent quality. You can tell a good goban from a fake by the sound of a blow on the surface of a stone board. The sound from the setting of the stone should be deep, soft, melodic. If the goban is thick, then the sound will be high, if it is thin, then the sound will be low.
All Japanese boards are ruled by hand. On expensive gobans, the lines are cut with a katana. This is an ancient tradition.


The craftsman marks the surface of the board with a katana

Plain boards from Japan are usually foldable. And they themselves are glued together from the bars of some noble wood.


Beech board, double-sided, folding, Japan.

Japanese boards are always of high quality. And they are not cheap. It is impossible to buy a Japanese goban in Moscow. Goban can be ordered through the club director who has direct links to Japanese Go Clubs. This operation will cost several thousand conventional units, and it will take several months. Any goban brought from Japan immediately becomes a legend and is overgrown with many stories. Ordering a goban is an adventure.
Elite boards and gobans are usually signed by a high-level Go master.


Takemiya Masaki (9th dan) signs the goban.

The goban has a special notch on the lower side, it is made so that the goban does not lead from time and changes in humidity. In Japan, they say: "My grandfather sawed wood, my father dried it, I made a goban."
The most expensive gobans in Japan are made from 700-year-old kaya. It's almost impossible to buy them.

Stones


The Japanese standard for stones is black and white. Due to the poverty of natural materials in Japan, such a radical version of flowers has become established in Go.
Classic Japanese stones are carved from the shells of the Hamaguri clam from the Hyuga Bar and black basalt. However, for several decades the Japanese go stone industry has been purchasing shells from Mexico, as the Japanese shellfish has become unusable due to environmental changes for carving stones from it.


Hamaguri Sink from Hyuga Shallow.
Collection of the club "Ascent"

All modern inexpensive shell and basalt stone sets are made from Mexican shells.
The stone standards are different.
The main types of stones are two types: yuki (snow) and khana (flower). The yuki variety has more frequent and thin stripes. In the stones of the Khan variety, the stripes are rare and thick.


Variety "Snow", on the left and variety "Flower"

There are three main grades of stones in terms of thickness and three grades in quality.




Stone thickness options. Most expensive - thickest (up to $ 370,000)

The stones shown in the pictures with a thickness of more than 37 mm are made only from a Japanese shell. Usually these are antique kits and their cost is tens and hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Bowls


Japanese bowls differ in shape from Chinese ones. They are more round. Lids in Japanese bowls with a recess for captive stones. Usually, mountain chestnut, kaya, walnut and other valuable tree species are used as materials for bowls. The most expensive bowls are made of mulberry tree.


Japanese kaya bowls on a mahogany stand.
The stones are shell and basalt.
Private collection, Russia.

All bowls and boards come in special wooden boxes. This is branded japanese style... Even diplomas for the game of Go are issued in obligatory wooden boxes.


Japanese classic set for guo


Mountain chestnut bowls, Japan.
Stones - Mexican shell and basalt, Japan

Fans



Go fan, Japan

Japanese fans are the most widespread in both Russia and Europe. Usually these are either tournament fans signed by professionals, or thematic Go fans made to order for a particular Go master.

Mikhail Emelyanov, teacher of the Go School "Ascent", assistant to the President of the Go Federation, 2006


Probably, many have thought about how to make a goban at home with minimal cost effort, money, and time. There are a lot of options, in fact, an impromptu goban can be made from anything, for example, from a piece of old linoleum, plywood, cardboard. But,
such gobans do not look very aesthetically pleasing, in addition, they are short-lived. Despite the fact that I am the proud owner of a board purchased back in the days of the USSR, which, by the way, is perfectly preserved, the obsession with making a goban does not leave me. Unfortunately, I do not know when I will have enough time to implement this idea, but I have already decided on the technology of making a goban for myself and I am bringing it to your attention.

So, first, let's make a list necessary tools and materials. I advise you to prepare everything in advance so that you do not run around the apartment in search of the most elementary tools and not come up with new uses for everyday things.

Materials and tools required for work:

1. Fiberboard MDF.

Dry fiberboards: MDF (medium density fiberboard) is a material with a uniform internal structure that allows milling without chipping, hairiness, opening of internal pores and grinding with sufficient surface quality of the product. MDF boards are widely used for the manufacture of furniture parts, especially furniture embossed facades..

2. Good quality clear varnish. You shouldn't skimp on varnish, it is better to buy a small jar of expensive varnish containing polyurethane.
3. Foam brushes or a small foam roller.
4. Flickering "zero" skin.
5. Sharp construction knife.
6. Long metal ruler. The second T-ruler will also help a lot.
7. Pencil, elastic band.
8. High quality permanent black marker pen with 0.5mm nib thickness.
9. Hair dryer.

Work production project (PPR)

1. Cut a board of the required size from our MDF board. Recommend to cut circular saw - then the cuts will be even and smooth. If you plan to cut with a jigsaw, then I must disappoint you - no matter how hard you try, the edges of the board will be uneven. Some craftsmen advise temporarily attaching a guide bar to stop the jigsaw, but this option is not suitable for us for two reasons: firstly, we do not want to spoil the board with the bar's fasteners (traces of screws will remain), and secondly, even if we fix the bar - the place of the saw cut will still turn out to be uneven, since the course of the jigsaw file is several millimeters, and on a thin board such an error will be striking.

2. The cut out blank for our goban must be carefully sanded. For sanding we use the finest "zero" sandpaper. To avoid too strong removal of fibers in places of pressure with your fingers - fix the skin on a small flat block, or on a special sanding block. I like it when the edges of the board are sharp, so we will not process them with a file, for the same reason we only sand the end sides of the workpiece with a bar!

3. Prime the workpiece with the first layer of varnish. Again, we do not save on varnish, we make sure that the varnish is with polyurethane. For a layer of primer, it is advisable to add a little white spirit to the varnish - this will make the varnish more liquid and it will saturate the board better. You need to apply the varnish with a foam brush or roller. If you use a regular brush, hairs will inevitably hit the surface of the board. If, when applying varnish, small bubbles form on the surface of the board, this should not scare you, the bubbles, theoretically, should disappear on their own, but I recommend that you dry the board a little after painting with an ordinary hair dryer.

4. Apply the mesh to the goban blank. To do this, draw the first line around the entire perimeter of the board with a sharpened pencil (we get a square). Be sure to check the angles - they must be strictly 90 degrees! The formulas proposed by Filin on the forum will help us to correctly determine the size of the sides of the square.Kido:

Horizontal size: 18 cells wide (d + 1mm), plus (0.7d) on each side

Final formula:
L horiz. \u003d 18 (d + 1) +0.7 (d + 1) +0.7 (d + 1) \u003d 19.4 (d + 1)

Vertical size: the same as horizontally, but add 3 mm (the goban should be slightly elongated to create the visual effect of an even square)

Final formula:
Lvert. \u003d 18 (d + 3) +0.7 (d + 3) +0.7 (d + 3) \u003d 19.4 (d + 3)

d - stone diameter (measure with a caliper)


After drawing the first line, apply all the rest, carefully following the dimensions. When all the lines are drawn with a pencil, we need to circle them with a black marker (pen thickness 0.5mm). Inaccuracies, errors of lines drawn with a marker wipe with a sharp construction knife... After drawing the lines, do not forget to mark the star points, for this it is best to use a stencil ruler. The dot diameter should be within 2-3 mm, otherwise it will look too large.

5. After applying the grid and star points with a marker, you must repeat the procedure
applying varnish 2-3 more times, each layer of varnish must be thoroughly dried. Dry the workpiece in a dry, dust-free place.

6. These are roughly the gobans obtained by following the instructions above:




In addition to the article, see:
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Figure 16-1

The diameter of the dots of the star points (hoshi) on the board: 3-4 mm. Line thickness: 0.7–1.0 mm.

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