Projects of frame 3x6 baths. Projects and construction of a frame bath. Cross-insulated lathing

Construction of houses and baths frame technology becomes more and more popular. This is because the technique is such that even alone you can build, not only a bathhouse, but even a decent-sized house. Despite the fact that the structure turns out to be warm (with sufficient insulation), it is also lightweight and inexpensive. Perhaps its only drawback is its high fire hazard, but this is the trouble of any wooden structure, and not just a frame.

DIY frame bath projects

Often, construction is stalled due to the fact that you do not know how to properly plan a bath, so that it is convenient and safe. This can help finished projects layouts. Ideally, if one of them suits you completely: no need to rack your brains. Although, if necessary, you can make adjustments. And sometimes just an idea is enough for you to "fall into place" and a plan for your frame bath, which you will build with your own hands. For this we have selected several projects frame baths different sizes with different room layouts.

Bath layout 4 * 5 m

This is a bathhouse with an extensive relaxation room, a small bathroom and a 4.8m2 steam room. The foundation - tape shallow - depth 70 cm, plinth 40 cm high (total height of the foundation with plinth 110 cm), gravel cushion 20 cm.There is a small porch, which can be sheathed and turned into a vestibule if used year-round. Then cold air will not enter the premises every time the doors are opened.

The finished drawing of a frame bath 4 * 5 m

Total area 20 m2, premises and their dimensions:

• Lounge 8.5 m2;
• Steam room of 4.8 m2;
• Bathroom 2.2 m2

Required materials for creating the frame:

• racks, lower and upper straps are made from a board of 100 * 50 mm;
• floor beams - from a board 150 * 50 mm with a step of 0.58 m;
• rafter system - from a board of 150 * 50 mm with a step of 0.58 m.

In this project, the baths are a fairly spacious recreation room and with such a small building size - 5 by 4 meters, a fairly spacious steam room - in a "clean" size of 4.8 square meters. According to the project, the stove is heated from the steam room, which is problematic for such a small room: there will not be much oxygen anyway. In this version, you can, leaving it in the same place, put a bath stove with an elongated firebox. In this case, firewood will be laid from the rest room, and the stove and the main “stove body” will be in the steam room. With this arrangement of the stove, the problem of heating the rest room is solved at the same time.

About the choice wood stove for a bath read here.

Project of a frame bath 6 * 6 m

The photo shows the layout of a fairly solid bath 6 by 6 meters. There is a small veranda, a dressing room, a full set of necessary premises.

This option is good because in almost any room sawn timber of a standard length can be used: 6 or 3 meters. This is convenient as there is little waste left. The foundation can be piled, columnar. A shallow tape or slab will do.

But there are some notes on the layout. The washing room for this project of a frame bath is spacious. This is an option for those who prefer to relax after a steam room not in a cool (relative to a steam room, of course) relaxation room, but to continue to relax in the humid and warm atmosphere of the washing room. Then it maintains a temperature of the order of 30-35 ° C and a fairly high humidity (due to increased power ovens and open door in the steam room). And they also install loungers, similar to the shelves in the steam room. Then a large sink is justified.

Needed big sizes sink if you plan to install a hot tub in it. If there is only a shower and a few small shops, then you can either fence off the changing room or increase the size of the steam room.

Bath plan after changes - with dedicated vestibule

The second note concerns the entrance. If they plan to come to the bathhouse in winter, it should have a fenced-in entrance - not directly to the recreation room. And this option is easy to implement. You just need to swap the window and doors and put a partition.

Read about where and how best to place windows in the bath here.

Total area 36 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• veranda 4.5 m2;
• recreation room 13.5 m2;
• sink 9 m2;
• steam room 9 m2.

Frame bath 6 * 3 m with a terrace

This option was developed by the Karkas construction company. The bath itself has small size - 6 by 3 meters. But an extensive terrace is attached to the front, slightly less bath: 2 by 6 meters. The premises in this project of the baths are quite small, in the steam room no more than three people can sit, and if one is lying, then only two. Moreover, the "recumbent" shelves can be located only opposite the door and their size will be small - a tall person can no longer lie down (2 meters, minus the thickness of the sheathing on both sides by at least 15 cm, total shelf length will be 1.7 m).

In this version of the layout of the bath, the stove can only be placed in the corner at the entrance to the steam room. It will be heated from the rest room, but you will need to choose some kind of high and narrow model - very little space is obtained for its installation. You can try to enter the Compact, Osa, Shilka and Biryusa ovens from Thermofor, there are also small Varvara ovens - Palenitsa and Mini models, if you need a reliable inexpensive oven under a brick screen, you can try to enter Heat Baby ". There are other small ovens and quite a few. You need to decide on maximum dimensions, which "stand" in the allocated space or move a little door. In general, in an amicable way, it would be nice to move the wall at least half a meter. By increasing the size of the functional rooms, in the summer, most likely the recreation room will smoothly move to the veranda.

And one more nuance: if you plan to use the bathhouse in winter, then you need a vestibule or dressing room. In this embodiment, you can move the entrance to the veranda and fence off part of the area by making the entrance to the room through the vestibule.

Project of a frame bath with a terrace. Good because it is easy to do it yourself

Total area 18 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• recreation room 11.07 m2;
• sink 1.61 m2;
• steam room 3.48 m2;
• terrace 11.21 m2.

Key node materials:

Bathhouse 4 * 4 m with a terrace

The bath itself measures 4 by 4 meters. A terrace 4 * 1.5 meters is attached to it. This bath layout differs in that the steam room and the washing room have the same dimensions. Two, maximum, three people will feel comfortable in the steam room at the same time. If a dry air sauna is planned, this layout fits without question.

For a Russian steam room, the option is not the best: at least one person is lying here, and for comfortable soaring in a Russian bath, the shelves must have a size of at least 2.1 * 0.7 m (and preferably 2.2 * 0.8 m). In the washing room, if you are not going to put loungers there to relax after the steam room, they usually just wash. It is better to reduce its size slightly by expanding the steam room. Then at least one full-fledged shelf can be entered. Although the stove will still be tedious to be small: firstly, the volume of the steam room is small, and secondly, there is not much room.

The dimensions of the premises in the basic design of the bath are as follows:

• total area 16 m2;
• recreation room 8 m2;
• sink 4 m2;
• steam room 4 m2;
• terrace 6 m2.

Key node materials:

• binding of a bath from a bar 100 * 150 mm;
• floor logs 150 * 100 mm with a step of 90 cm;
• ceiling slab - 150 * 40 mm through 60-70cm;
• rafter legs edged board 100 * 50 mm;
• roofing material - metal, corrugated board, ondulin.

Frame bath 5.4 * 6.3 m

In this frame bath project, the steam room has an area of \u200b\u200b5 square meters... There is also a terrace with a size of 2 * 5.4 meters.

Total area 22.2 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• recreation room 11.3 m2;
• sink 5.9 m2;
• steam room 5 m2;
• terrace 10.8 m2.

About the layout of the baths and the choice of room sizes, the location of shelves, read the article " Optimal bath: what is she like? "

The advantages of frame structures

The frame building is a skeleton made of timber, sheathed on both sides with finishing materials. A vapor barrier and insulation are laid between them. It immediately becomes clear that, if necessary, the construction can be low-budget. After all, it is possible to use inexpensive thermal insulation materials (straw, sawdust, etc.) which, despite their availability, retain heat well.

It is clear that the weight of the walls with this technology is very small. And this leads to the fact that the foundation can be made lightweight. During the construction of baths, pile or pile-grillage, tape are most often made. But a monolithic slab or block foundation is also suitable.

Lightweight foundation - lower costs for materials and construction, because the foundation sometimes "pulls" half the cost of the entire construction. And in this option, the costs will be relatively small.

For construction frame house no complicated technique required. All you need is a saw, a hammer, nails, screws, a screwdriver, a plumb line and a level to check the verticality of the walls. If there is another technique, use it for health, but this is the minimum that can be done.

An important plus is that you can work alone, only occasionally inviting assistants for some operations. A vivid example is presented in the video: a woman herself, with her clearly not athletic hands, has almost completed a small two-story house using frame technology.

disadvantages

On increased fire hazard frame structures already wrote. And this is the main disadvantage of houses built using this technology. Therefore, it is advisable to process all materials with fire retardants (means that reduce the flammability of materials).

The flammability of the walls leads to the fact that all electrical wiring must be placed in metal boxes or special non-combustible corrugated sleeves. For this reason, electrical work becomes more difficult and more expensive - the cost of casings and corrugated hoses is added.

The frame bath has additional disadvantages: high humidity makes its own adjustments. We will have to pay increased attention to the vapor barrier of the walls. Using mineral wool it will be necessary to protect the insulation from moisture very carefully: when it gets wet, it loses its properties. Moreover, when dry, it restores them only partially. If it freezes wet, it just crumbles. Therefore, we choose a high-quality and reliable vapor barrier (not "hydro", but "steam"). When laying, we follow the technology down to the smallest detail (overlaps, gluing joints and attachment points, etc.).

Necessary materials

The basis of the frame house is frames assembled from wooden beam... Depending on the planned dimensions of the bath, a beam of 100 * 150 or 150 * 150 mm is used for their assembly. For jibs, and crossbars that are nailed between vertical uprights, bars of smaller thickness are suitable.

When installing a roof for a Mauerlat, you will need about the same timber - 150 * 150 mm or so. For rafter legs all the same bars 100 * 150 or 150 * 150 mm. Depends on the configuration of the selected roof and the weight of the roofing material. By the way, a very heavy roofing material - such as ceramic tiles - it is undesirable to use for frame frames - the load on the walls is too great.

You will also need slats to create lathing, counter-battens, and all kinds of auxiliary work. And there will be a lot of them: the crate is needed both on the walls on both sides and on the roof. Although, in some versions, the outside panels are sheathed with plywood (as in the video above). There are a lot of construction options, as well as the materials used.

How to do rafter system read gable roof with your own hands here.

You will also need sub-floor material. What will it be - unedged or edged board, plywood or other slab material - you decide. But all the wood will need to be processed. And fire retardants - to reduce flammability, and protective antibacterial compounds. Read about how to process wood inside the bath here.

The materials for covering the frame inside and out are selected based on personal preferences or the purpose of the building. If we talk about frame baths, then usually everything is sheathed inside with clapboard (they put tiles in the washing room), and outside with an imitation of a bar or a blockhouse.

It is advisable to use mineral wool as a heater for the bath: they do not burn. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the region. For middle band Basalt wool is mainly used for baths in Russia, with a layer of 15-25 cm. If you are worried about the possibility of formaldehyde release (much has been written about this), then you can take non-woven mats. They contain emission harmful substances is minimal.

More often frame bvni are insulated with mineral wool

• it cannot be used in a steam room - temperature conditions do not allow;
• it melts and sustains combustion;
• this insulation costs a lot (we are talking about extruded polystyrene foam).

You will also need a lot of nails and screws. For the construction of a bath, it is advisable to use galvanized ones: so that they do not rust and do not leave ugly streaks on the wood. They will be needed different sizes and diameters - for assembling the frame are large, for lathing and sheathing is smaller.

About what fasteners to use in the construction of a bath, read the article "Fasteners for a bath and a sauna"

From all that has been said above, we hope you have concluded that you can build a frame bath with your own hands. To be sure of this, watch the video. A house with the participation of only one person was built using frame technology. It describes in more detail the construction technology of some nodes.

If you have picked up a frame bath project, decided to build it yourself, but have no idea how to proceed, we recommend watching the video. In it, an experienced American carpenter Larry Hon tells and shows the technology of erecting the walls of a frame house. The video is very detailed and takes more than an hour, but by the end of viewing the technology frame construction it will be clear to you.

How to make drawings of a frame bath with your own hands

It is rather difficult to find such a person in our country who has never been to the bathhouse. Many people know what it is like to sit and relax in good company after a steam room with a mug of aromatic herbal tea. Therefore, very often near the house on the site you can see a small, but cozy bathhouse.

It is made from wood (timber or logs), brick, stone, or made using frame technology. The latter will be discussed in this article.

Project

Most often, the bath is planned as a separate building, erecting it from rounded logs, ordinary or glued beams. But, frame construction has recently become more and more "to step on their heels."

Quite a few companies are ready to offer their clients standard or individual drawings of a frame bath. Although the cost of the latter will be more expensive, but you will get an exclusive option that will not be repeated anywhere else.

What are the benefits of frame technology:

• significant reduction in building construction time;
• cost savings, since the cost of construction is much lower than the construction of, for example, a traditional log house.

Do not forget that such a bath can be built with your own hands, almost without attracting helpers. But at the beginning of the process, you still cannot do without a project on paper, which will allow you to avoid unnecessary purchases and movements.

Creation of drawings requires certain knowledge, so if you doubt your abilities, it would be better to seek help from specialists. For those who are sure, below are instructions on how to correctly compose them.

Training

Before you start drawing up a drawing of a frame bath, you should decide on some points.

It is not enough so far that you have decided to make a bath using frame technology, you will need to calculate the following details:

1. The location of the structure on the site. Especially sewage and drainage should be considered. Very often the laying of these communications becomes a decisive factor.

1. Soil at the construction site. This component is important, since for a bath it is necessary to build a foundation that directly depends on the soil on the site.
   By design, it can be:
   • tape (made of reinforced concrete or concrete);
   • piled from stone, concrete;
   • columnar - made of brick, concrete or stone;
   • made of separately lying blocks, the grooves between which are filled cement mortar or clay.

Advice: if you plan to install a pool in the bath, the groundwater should not be close to the surface of the site.

1. Building plan and number of floors. If you decide to build a frame two-story bath, you should take into account the additional load on the frame and base, which is quite difficult for a beginner. Also, at this stage, it is necessary to think in advance about the location of the stove and what it will be made of in order to understand where and what to install the chimney, as well as ventilation ducts in the premises.

1. Supply of communications.
   This stage includes:
   • electrical preparation, in particular the laying of electrical wiring;
   • type of ventilation;
   • thermal insulation;
   • vapor barrier;
   • features of drainage.
2. Roof. An important element of any building, since the durability of the structure directly depends on it. It will be important to know: what material should be used to make it, and what shape you want it to be in order to calculate the power of the floors.

Design and its features

As soon as you understand the above points, you can begin to create a drawing of the future bath, entering all the information received into it, as well as complementing the project necessary details... Be guided by this rule - the more detailed the drawing, the easier it will be to build the desired building.

Try to prepare a few sketches in order to have a certain choice. For example, it will be necessary to draw not only a general plan of a frame bath, but also floor drawings, where calculations and details should be indicated.

Separate plans should also be drawn up for communications. Thus, you will not get confused while laying the lines. However, do not forget that you should not complicate the project if you do not have enough knowledge. The best option is to use a ready-made option, only slightly adjusting it to suit your preferences.

Tip: use already built projects that have proven their reliability for compilation.

The plan of a frame bath with a terrace

The drawing shows a bath for suburban area with a terrace measuring 1.5 × 4 m, the total size of the structure is 4 × 6 m. This project is well suited for organizing summer gatherings in an open free area.

The plan of the frame bath assumes that the steam room consists of three rooms:

• steam rooms;
• washing or shower bath;
• rest rooms.

The tambour is shown separately on the plan. There is no room for the changing room, but there is a small place for changing clothes in the washing block. The outerwear is removed and stored in a special closet installed in the bath's relaxation room. The terrace itself merges with the living room, being its summer variety.

Output

Wireframe technology began to be applied to its full potential by settlers in America. Due to the speed and ease of construction, it quickly gained popularity. Today, not only houses are erected in this way, but also outbuildings, including baths.

Frame technology will allow you to have a complete structure, even if you have a small budget. In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

Frame bath 3 by 5: photos by stages of construction

A detailed photo report of the construction of a frame bath 3 by 5 meters.

The steam room itself is 3m x 3m, the dressing room is 2m x 3m. The terrace overlooks the pool with a diameter of 3m (also frame).

Ready base for the foundation.

A swimming pool has been installed and the erection of a shed frame has begun.

DIY frame bath: step by step instructions

It's hard to imagine now country cottage area without the presence of a bath on it. To take a steam bath in a warm bathhouse is a real Russian tradition, rooted in the depths of centuries. A bathhouse can be built not only in the country, but also in the city: the presence of a site is a great opportunity to implement this initiative. Moreover, a frame bath is a modern high-tech design that does not require large expenses.

A frame bath can be built with your own hands without resorting to the help of specialist masters. It is this type of construction that is the fastest and most affordable: a frame bath requires several times less materialsthan structures made of timber or logs of similar dimensions.

Where to start building a frame bath?

First of all, you need to decide on the location of the bath. It can be an extension to the house, or it can be located separately from it. Before proceeding with the laying of the foundation for the future bath, it is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site and plan the construction itself: the number of floors and rooms, dimensions, interior.

Before the construction of a bath, a plan must be drawn up, where it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the structure, to estimate the volume and duration of work. All elements of the ventilation system, chimney, roof features and other important aspects should be noted in the plan. You can also attach a veranda or terrace to the bathhouse.

For the bath to be comfortable and to accommodate several people at the same time, its dimensions must be appropriate. Most the best option for a steam room - 240x200x220 centimeters.

At the discretion of the builders or customers, the sauna can be equipped with a billiard room, a recreation room or an additional steam room.

The plan of the future bath should be drawn up as accurately as possible and taking into account the smallest details - this way the construction process itself will be much easier. The bath project can be ordered from specialists. They will do everything competently and accurately, which will help to avoid major mistakes during construction.

Also, when planning a bath, a table is drawn up for recording all the materials necessary for construction, which corresponds to the plan.

Materials required for the construction of a frame bath:

• foundation pouring cement;
• sand;
• bars for mounting the frame and ceiling;
• beams;
• insulation material in a roll (mineral wool, finished mats, polyethylene, roofing felt, glassine);
• waterproofing film for walls and ceilings;
• lining for interior wall cladding;
• roofing material for the roof.

What foundation to choose for the construction of a frame bath?

Since the frame bath itself is very light, a strip foundation will be enough for its construction, which is poured directly under the walls along the entire perimeter of the structure. A common option is a columnar foundation, however, to install it, you need stable soil, otherwise the structure may collapse.

Due to the lightness of the frame bath, the foundation for it is poured according to a fairly simplified scheme.

When the main points are determined, you can proceed to the construction itself.

1. Pouring the foundation.

Step one. The perimeter of the future bath is determined in advance, along its edges special pegs are driven into the ground, within which it is necessary to dig a ditch 60 centimeters deep and 40 centimeters wide.

Step two. The moat is filled with sand to one third of the depth. From above, the sand is poured with water and carefully compacted.

Step three. After compaction of the first layer, finely chopped red brick or gravel is poured over it.

Step four. A layer of broken brick or gravel is covered with a layer of sand, which should level with the ground.

Step five. The formwork is assembled from the reinforcement. The entire structure is poured with concrete, and on top is insulated with a thin layer of roofing material.

Important! Before the construction of a frame bath, at least a week should pass so that the foundation has the opportunity to properly settle.

1. Building walls.

Step one. The timber prepared for the frame bath must be thoroughly dried before starting work. It is not recommended to use birch wood for construction, as it quickly decays. The most the best option there will be linden, aspen or larch. The wood of these species is able to retain its shape for a long time and has thermal insulation properties, which is very important for a bath.

Step two. After all construction works will be completed, from the inside the boards should be covered with an antiseptic solution, and from the outside - with furniture varnish, and in two layers. This procedure must be done around the entire perimeter of the room, avoiding only the steam room and the washing room.

Step three. The lower harness made of a reliable beam with a section of 10x10 centimeters must be firmly fixed, and then properly fasten the beams in the corners with nails. It is recommended to put the racks on metal pins so that during the construction of the walls they cannot change their location and knock down the structure.

Step four. Corner posts must be embedded in concrete.

Tip: The pillars - the basis of the walls of the future bath - should be placed directly under load-bearing walls, corners, stoves - that is, in those places where the load is greatest.

Step five. Intermediate posts are mounted along the perimeter of the walls, made of the same timber as the main structure.

Step six. To make the floor waterproof, it should be laid out with a beam of any wood, with a section of 15x15 centimeters.

Step seven. For covering the bath from the outside and from the inside, lining is used, which is affordable and easy to use. So that there are no gaps between the sheets of the lining, located in a horizontal position, they should overlap each other. This procedure is very scrupulous in nature, but it can protect the walls from excess moisture.

1. Moving on to building the roof.

Step one. It is necessary to take 8 special ceiling beams, sawn at the corner of the rafters. To begin with, only the extreme rafters should be set, and only after that, fix a couple more pieces in the center of the future roof. The rest of the rafters are attached to the main structure, first from one side of the roof, then from the other (through the ridge).

Step two. After the rafters, vertical racks are installed, if necessary, an exit to the attic is made.

Step three. On the rafters located from the edges, beams are cut to which the frontal boards are nailed, after which the sheathing is attached from above.

1. It is necessary to insulate the walls.

The most common material for this purpose is a roll of insulation about 50 millimeters thick. In some cases, mineral wool or ready-made mats are used. Insulation is laid between vertical wooden posts, after which slats are nailed to them. It is recommended to use polyethylene or glassine for thermal insulation of the room.

Advice: it is not recommended to use roofing material for wall insulation, as under the influence high temperatures it starts to give off an unpleasant odor.

For floor insulation, it is better to choose expanded clay or other types of backfills, and for the ceiling - foam. If the insulation is selected correctly, the heat will be lost several times less. Thanks to this, the cost of heating the bath will also be reduced.

After the walls and roof are built, it will be possible to start installing windows and doors in the openings left for them in advance. At the end of these works, it will be possible to enter the home stretch.

The final stage of the construction of a frame bath

To make the bath pleasant to use, it should not only be comfortable and well-designed, but also have a beautiful interior decoration. Therefore, after the completion of the main work inside the bath, finishing work should be done.

First, you need to protect the walls and ceiling from the adverse effects of moisture and high temperatures. Coniferous upholstery is perfect for this purpose. Then you can go directly to the installation of the most important part of any bath - the stove. It must be installed in accordance with all safety requirements. It is recommended that the wall separating the steam room and the rest room be made of brick - so it will allow less heat to pass through.

To make the walls look more attractive, it is recommended to sheathe them with clapboard. Linden wood is best suited for this purpose.

What are the main pros and cons of a frame bath?

1. Acceptable price. The construction of a frame bath is several times cheaper than analogues.
2. Ease of construction. A frame bath can be built with your own hands, without the help of specialists.
3. Light weight. The frame bath box is light enough, its weight is acceptable for areas with soft soil.
4. Short construction time. It is not only easy to build a frame bath, but also quickly: you don't even have to wait for next summer to take a steam bath in it.

1. Difficulty in leaving. Insulation materials may become unusable under the influence of moisture and high temperatures, and replacing them will be quite problematic.
2. Inappropriate for therapeutic purposes. Due to the fact that the walls of a frame bath do not emit useful substances, bath procedures in it cannot help with health problems. If there are any, it is recommended to build a different type of bath.

Despite the fact that the advantages of frame structure much more than shortcomings, one should come to a decision on the construction of a bath of one type or another, focusing only on one's own taste and on the basis of one's capabilities - both material and physical. The condition of the soil and the location of the future bath are also important.

There is nothing difficult and impossible in the construction of a frame bath. The instructions given in this article will help everyone to build a bath of their dreams in a short time, without spending a lot of material resources.

The most important question that comes to mind when you want to build a bathhouse with your own hands on your site is the cost of materials. Will the family budget support the project for the construction of a 6 by 4 meter frame bath? Let's try to count required amount materials and their cost.

So, for any capital structure, a reliable foundation is required, and it is not worth saving on it. This project will require a strip foundation 30 cm wide and 1 meter in total height. Height above ground level is at least 50 cm.

Foundation cost

For the foundation you will need:

1. Sand bedding 15 cm thick.Calculate the required amount of sand: the width of the trench is 0.3 m, the perimeter of the foundation is 6.1 m * 4.1 m \u003d 20.4 m * 0.3 * 0.15 \u003d 0.918 m3. We get about 1 m3 of sand worth 1000 R.
2. Formwork. Formwork height 45 cm - three boards. Formwork requires 24 boards 150 * 25 cm worth 4000 R.
3. Armature. Two rows, two rods with a diameter of 12 mm. It will take 80 meters at 25.5 r per meter, we get 2040 R.
4. Concrete is required 0.3m * 1m * 20.4m \u003d 6.12 m3. Its price depends on the distance to the object. Let's take about 4500 r per 1 m3 and get 27540 R
5. The costs for knitting wire, self-tapping screws, air pipes will be denoted within 5000 R.

Total costs for the construction of the foundation will be approximately 39580 rubles.

To slightly reduce the cost of the foundation, concrete can be made by hand, and not bought in production.

The cost of materials for the construction of the frame and rafter system

For a more solid structure, the bath should have a strong bottom strapping, strong corner posts and the top strapping are best made of a 150 * 150 mm bar. We take the net ceiling height of 2.2 meters. For the upper and lower strapping, 8 beams will be required and two more for the corner posts. 10pcs * 930r \u003d 9300 R. Vertical racks, ceiling beams and rafters are made of boards 150 * 50 mm. The distance between the posts is taken 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation used. Take, for example, a standard insulation made of stone or mineral wool measuring 60 * 100 cm. Based on the above, we need 12 boards 150 * 50 mm for the racks. For ceiling beams, you need 10 pieces of boards. and rafters 10 pcs., total 20 pcs. Boards 150 * 50 need to purchase about 10 more pieces. for the construction of scaffolding. As a result, we get the costs for the board 150 * 50: racks - 12 pcs. + Beams, rafters - 20 pcs. + Scaffolding 10 pcs. \u003d 42 pcs. * 318 p \u003d 13363 ruble.

The standard length of lumber is 6 meters.

Roof device

Depending on the roofing material with which the bath is covered, the crate should be equipped. It is not difficult to do it yourself. For metal shingles, it is enough to make a crate from an inch edged board. For soft bituminous shingles, a flat surface is required. To do this, plywood is laid on top of the usual crate, and then the roofing material.

The cost of a metal tile roof

Lathing: step 150 mm edged board 150 * 25 mm 33 pcs * 159 r \u003d 5247 R.

The working width of the metal tile is 1100 mm. This roof requires 11 sheets of 3 meters long. Moreover, one will have to be cut in half lengthwise. The area of \u200b\u200bone sheet is 3.54 m2. Let's take the price of 500 rubles per m2 and get 1770 rubles per sheet. Total: 11 * 1770 \u003d 19470 R.

To complete the work on the metal tile roof, we still need 7 meters of the ridge. It is produced in two meters, so you have to buy 4 pieces. Its price is 650 rubles * 4 pcs. \u003d 2600 R. The wind bar will need 12 meters * 520 r \u003d 6240 R. Eaves plank 14 meters * 400 r \u003d 5600 R. Two packs of self-tapping screws with a rubber washer 2 pack. * 800 r \u003d 1600 R. The bottom line for a roof made of metal tiles without a drainage system: 40757 rubles.

For this roof, a sheet of metal tile is three meters long and it will be difficult for one person to lift it onto the roof with his own hands. You will need at least one more hands.

The cost price of a roof made of soft roof

Lathing: edged board 150 * 25 mm 27 pcs * 159 rubles \u003d 4293 R. OSB plywood 9 mm thick 14 sheets * 550 p \u003d 7700 R.

According to the rules, before laying shingles first it is necessary to lay the roofing material on the plywood, and then the tiles themselves. In order to save money, we will put it only on the skate.

Lining carpet 1 roll - 2000 r. The roof area is 42 m2 * 500 r \u003d 21000 p the cost of the tiles themselves. Just like for metal shingles, you need to purchase a wind bar. 6240 p and eaves 5600 R. For better fixation of the tiles, in the places of contact with the cornice and wind bars, it must be additionally smeared bituminous mastic (2500 p per can). To ventilate the space between the roofs, special aerators are installed on the roof, closer to the ridge. For this roof you will need 4 pcs. * 850 r \u003d 3400 R. It is best to fasten the tiles to plywood with self-tapping screws ( 500 R). Result for roofing made of flexible bituminous tiles without a drainage system: 53233 ruble.

A soft roof is not at all difficult to assemble with your own hands. Each pack has detailed diagram laying tiles.

The cost of the metal gutter system

Metal eaves hooks are used to attach the downspout to the roof. They are attached to the eaves or to the rafters before the sheathing device. This roof will require 20 pcs. * 200 r \u003d 4000 R. Gutter drainage system 14 meters * 358 r \u003d 5012 R. Four plugs of 250 r ( 1000 R). Two connectors for 450 rubles ( 900 R). Two outlets, two bends, two outlets from the gutter, two wall mountings ( 4000 R). Drain pipes 1700 R. Total for drainage system: 16612 rubles.

Floors

For genital lags, it is better to use a beam of 100 * 150 mm. You will need 8 pcs. * 636 \u003d 5088 R. The subfloor will take 26 inch planks 150 mm wide. ( 4136 R). If the floors in the entire bath are wooden, then 26 pieces of floorboard will also be required. * 590 \u003d 15340 R. Floor insulation should be good and be 150 mm. Insulation will take 27 packs * 430 p \u003d 11610 R. Total by gender: 36174 ruble.

Cost of wall and ceiling insulation

The wall area is 44 m2 and the ceiling area is 24 m2. For the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls and ceiling (68 m2), we need 40 packs of insulation. Costs will be 40 * 430 r \u003d 17200 R. The area of \u200b\u200bthe door and windows can be omitted from the total area of \u200b\u200binsulation. The remaining insulation will be used to insulate the partitions. To protect the insulation from moisture, it must be covered with a vapor barrier material. For the entire volume of the bath, two rolls will be enough ( 6500 R). Outcome: 23700 rubles.

Installation of insulation is very simple and it will not be difficult to lay it yourself, with your own hands.

To sew the gables, you will need an inch board in the amount of 15 pcs. * 159 r \u003d 2385 R.

Cost of interior finishing

Inside the bathhouse most often gets off wooden clapboard... For the washing room and the rest room, use lining made of pine or spruce, for a steam room made of linden or aspen. In order to understand how much one and the other lining is needed, it is necessary to divide the space of the entire bath into separate rooms partitions. We will not count the exact costs of partitions, but take approximately 5000 r. So, we determine the size of the steam room 1.8 m * 2.2 m.To finish it, you will need: wall paneling 17.6 m2 * 860r \u003d 15136 r., for a ceiling 4m2 * 860 r \u003d 3440 R. Linden board shelves will cost 5000 R. The door to the steam room costs an average 5000 R. Refractory protection of combustible materials from the furnace will cost 3000 R.

Lining for the rest of the rooms and the ceiling will require about 60 m2 * 220 r \u003d 13200 R. Input wooden door 5000 p, windows in the steam room, in the recreation room, in the washing room - 15000 R. All kinds of impregnations, varnishes, paints: 5000 R.

The lining is attached to the lathing with nails or with the help of special clamps - clamps. Sewing up the walls and ceiling with clapboard with your own hands will not be difficult.

A stove with a stove with a chimney will cost at least 30000 R. Plumbing, plumbing, water heater, shower, sewerage, etc. more 30000 R. Electricity: 7000 R. If the washing floor is filled with concrete and gets off ceramic tiles, then this is an additional cost.

Total for interior decoration: 141776 rubles.

Cost of exterior finishing

Outside the walls of the frame bath, it is necessary to hammer in an edged board or plywood. For this we need 55 boards * 159 p \u003d 8450 R. The bathhouse outside is sheathed with almost any finishing material, but most often they use siding or the same lining as for internal works... Let's calculate the approximate costs of finishing the bath with siding. A plinth or foundation is best selected and covered with plinth panels. One such panel 1 meter long today costs about 500 rubles. They will need 20 pieces and we get 10000 p plus corners, starting strip, metal ebb - more 5000 R. Siding will require 60 m2 and will cost 200 rubles per m2 ( 12000 p), and the same amount ( 12000 p) additional accessories (start line, outer corners, finish line, etc.). Soffits for filing overhangs 13 m2 * 250 r \u003d 3250 R.

Total for exterior decoration siding: 38700 rubles.

Before proceeding with the installation of siding, you need to complete the crate. It is necessary for air circulation between wooden wall and siding. The siding is attached to the crate using galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer. When installing the siding with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the panel should not be tightly attracted to the wall with a self-tapping screw, but should walk. This will ensure the panel's mobility during temperature changes. Bath closed by siding, will be protected from the effects of atmospheric precipitation and will last for many years.

Additional expenses

Additional costs include fasteners ( 30000 p), well, as at any construction site, unforeseen (unaccounted for) expenses or the amount that should be "just in case" 20000 r.

Total for additional costs: 50000 rubles.

Grand total

Let's sum up the total cost of materials for a frame bath with a size of 6 meters by 4 meters with different roofing.

Bath covered with metal tiles: 403047 rubles.

Bath covered with flexible bituminous tiles: 415523 ruble.

This article can become an assistant in calculating the funds necessary for the construction of a 6x4 meter frame bath with your own hands. Of course, the calculations will not be accurate, but approximate, since prices for building materials in different regions our country is different, and the wishes for interior and exterior decoration are different for each person. If you order such a bath from a construction company, then at least 60% should be added to the resulting cost of materials. The received amount will be the cost of the turnkey bath.

The economic situation in the modern world is extremely unstable. Many people have to plan their budget for many months ahead and often save on their expenses. A person who decides to engage in individual construction has to choose options for economy class construction technologies.

Project of a frame bath 6x3m with a layout

Increasingly, if they want to build at home, people stop at the technology of frame construction. Now in easy access you can find any projects of frame baths from the smallest ones - 2x4 or 6x3 m in size, medium - 6x5 or 6x6 m in size to solid ones - with an area of \u200b\u200b6x8 m. The technology allows you to build both two-story baths and.

It is impossible not to dwell on a number of features and even advantages of frame baths:

If the construction of a frame bath with your own hands turns out to be too much for you, in this case there are many options for ready-made "turnkey" baths from manufacturers.

So, for example, a turnkey 6x3 m frame bath will cost its new owner about 140 thousand rubles, 6x5 m baths cost from 240 thousand rubles. But for these funds, the customer will receive a ready-to-use structure in 2 weeks.

Preparation for the production of work

If you have already decided to build a bath yourself, then you should outline a construction plan.

Variant of the project and layout of a frame two-story bath 6 × 6 m

It is better to divide the planning of the construction of a future bath into stages.

Choosing a place for construction

Furnace selection

An important question is the choice of a stove (gas or wood-fired). Its power also matters. Baths measuring 6x5, 6x6, 6x8 m do not require the purchase of a powerful stove, but if these are two-story buildings or a frame bath with an attic, then here it is worth thinking about a more serious apparatus.

Project of a frame bath 6 × 8 m with an attic

It is always worth remembering not only about comfort, but also about maintenance costs. So the heating costs increase with size. A one-story bathhouse measuring 6x6 m will always consume much less than two floors 6x8 m;

Bath project, ventilation and chimney

To comply with the necessary standards, it is worth purchasing. In specialized firms, as a rule, standard drawings for the smallest 4x2 baths, for large two-story buildings 6x8 or 6x6 m baths are always available. The only thing that distinguishes them is the cost.

To prevent the appearance of mold and mildew in the premises of the bath, it is worth considering the supply and exhaust ventilation system.

You should definitely consider how to properly and correctly finish around the stove.

Set of tools

Immediately before starting construction, you need to purchase all the necessary tools.

Complete set of tools for wireframe construction

Purchase of building materials

At the end of the work planning, according to the project, the entire required material... There are two ways to build a bathhouse. To build a frame bath, for example, 6x6 m in size, it is enough to order the entire structure from the factory according to the project and later simply assemble it. Moreover, many note that in some cases this option is even cheaper than when a person completely builds everything himself. The second option is to calculate everything yourself.

Upon completion preparatory work the most interesting stage begins - this is the construction of the bath itself.

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The erected object is based on the 3x6 Bath project with an internal Zhukov porch using frame technology. The frame of the walls is made of 100x100 bar and 40x100 bar, Insulation 150mm Isover floor and ceiling, walls 100mm Park Roofing material - Ondulin Green, Outside Outside Imitation of a bar.

The client sent us an application for this bath and immediately warned us that there is a large kosour on the site. We have prepared pile foundation from 12 piles. And then they began to build a bathhouse on it. The construction of the log house was carried out by the brigade of Ruslan Tutaev.

The bath was put into operation in February 2014. The cost of the bathhouse is 298,000 rubles.

Complete set of a frame bath 3x6 turnkey

Foundation - Pile - Made by ourselves;

Waterproofing, Wind and vapor barrier - Izospan Membranes A, B and D.

Strapping - double - Non-planed timber 150 * 150mm with vents;

Floor lags - Bearing beams 150 * 100, floor logs 50 * 150 timber with an interval of 600mm;

Ceiling slab - Board 150x40, with a step of 1.0 m;

Rough floor - board 20mm;

Insulation - Floor and ceiling 150mm thick Isover;

Drowning - Walls 100mm thick, Parok.

Finishing floor - Chamber drying board 26mm;

Bath frame - Main frame 100x100, auxiliary board 40x100,

Exterior finish - Imitation of timber 20mm thick;

Partitions - frame made of bar 40x100,

Wall and ceiling decoration - 12.5mm thick coniferous lining.

Steam room decoration - foil + 16mm thick aspen lining,

The roof is shared with the terrace, Gable, Rafters - board 40 * 150, interval 1m; Ridge height 1.5m. Pediment trimming imitation of timber, Overhangs (celestial lands) - width 400mm, lined with needled clapboard, lathing, board 22 * \u200b\u200b100mm, fits in increments of no more than 250mm; Roof material Ondulin. Green colour.

Sauna stove VPK 22 T / 0, matt stainless steel tank for 55 liters, a set of pipes (sandwich, stainless steel from 2 sides), with brick cutting and connecting a water tank

Environmentally friendly wooden windows and doors.

Electrical installation includes:

wiring point by point with VVG NG non-combustible cable in metal-corrugated metal at the rate of no more than 5 points per room. Section of cables 3x2.5 for sockets; 3x1.5 for switches; 3x4 power. Consumables customer.

The septic tank kit includes:

1. Station Topas 5 ave;
2. Laying 2 lm sewer pipe DN 110mm;
3. Laying of an electric cable VVG 4x1.5 10 rm. into the HDPE pipe or el. corrugation;
4. Preparation of a pit for AS Topas followed by sanding;
5. Drilling a hole in a septic tank for a sewer pipe, soldering a sewer pipe DN 110 mm with a septic tank;
6. Electrical cable connection in the septic tank junction box;
7. Compressor installation, commissioning. Pipe laying DN 32 mm - 2 r.m. to drain the purified ode from the septic tank;

The septic tank does not include:

1. Installation of formwork and material in case of quicksand;
2. Water and its delivery;
3. Removal of soil;
4. Sand and its delivery (no further than 10 m from the installation site) 4 cubic meters;
5. The customer undertakes to provide access to the 220V electrical network at the site;